types of sailboat blocks

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September 4, 2023

Buyer's Guide to Boat Blocks

Boat blocks are essential for safe, efficient trips on the water. Without a quality boat block, you'll work harder than necessary when dealing with your rigging, and you might harm your boat. Use our expert boat block buying guide to help you learn all the basics of boat blocks and find the best system for your vessel. 

What Is a Boat Block?

Boat blocks are boat pulleys — "block" is a nautical term. These are essential components for any sailboat rigging system. Without them, it is much more challenging to control the sailboat while dealing with the heavy loads created by wind and waves. They provide a more straightforward method for changing the vessel's direction and multiplying the mechanical advantage of the lines, or ropes, used to control the sails. 

Sailboat blocks' core purpose is to provide smooth, efficient line movement, enabling sailors to trim the sails effectively. Boat pulleys help redirect the lines, reducing friction and redistributing the load so the sails are easier to handle and the boat's direction and speed are simpler to control. Boat blocks come in several sizes, materials and designs to accommodate all your sailing loads and needs. Finding the right one will help keep you safe on the water. 

Boat Block Components and Their Uses

While they might seem small and simple, boat blocks have several components that all help the pulley system work effectively. These pivotal pieces allow for efficient movement and connection of lines, mechanical advantage, ease of sail control and improved safety. 

• Sheave:  Sheaves are critical components in a pulley system. The sheave is a wheel with a groove in the middle. The line sits in this groove, which guides the line as it moves through the pulley. The sheave creates the pulley system, allowing the line control to work with less friction and more smoothly. 
• Cheeks:  Cheeks — or cleaves — are side plates that enclose the sheave. They stabilize the sheave and keep the lines in place as they move. Since cheeks sit against the sheave and also take wear from the outside, they consist of high-strength polymers or stainless steel. 
• Bearing:  There are several bearing types, and each serves a slightly different purpose. Bearings are axles inside the sheave or pulley that minimize friction as the rope moves along the system. Plain bearing pulleys have a small steel pin the sheave rotates on. They're ideal for heavy loads and static purposes like masthead and mast foot blocks. Roller bearings have rollers instead of balls or pins. They can handle heavy loads for dynamic uses like main halyards. Ball bearings work well for low-load, active uses like spinnaker systems. 
• Shackle:  Shackles are metal connecting devices that attach the block to other rigging components like the deck or mast. They simplify block installing, adjusting and removal. There are various shackle types for different situations, including snap and bow.
• Becket:  Beckets are small metal loops or eyelets attached to the side of the block. Beckets make convenient attachment points for shackles, ropes and other essential hardware. They allow you to create multiple line configurations or secure lines easily. 

Types of Sailboat Blocks

Boat blocks come in several types, each with a unique function. Pulley blocks help make your rigging system safer and more efficient — investing in the right type for the job ensures your vessels work well on the water. Blocks can work in dynamic and fixed situations for all your rigging needs. Here are the primary block fitting types and their functions.

Single-Sheave Block

Single-sheave blocks are the simplest. They have only one sheave for the rope to pull along, changing the tension direction. All sheave blocks usually mount to the boom or deck. You'll see sheave blocks used with reef lines, the mast base and the foresheet. Additionally, the simplicity of single sheave blocks helps facilitate basic pulling and lifting tasks. 

Multi-Sheave and Fiddle Blocks

The more sheaves on a block, the better the mechanical advantage. Increasing sheave count allows you to handle larger forces with minimal strain. Multi-sheave blocks are also valuable for tasks like constructing a mainsheet jib. 

Fiddle blocks are a type of multi-sheave block. While most multi-sheave blocks feature sheaves connected side by side, fiddle blocks have sheaves stacked below each other. This configuration often resembles a fiddle, giving them their name. You'll usually see fiddle blocks on smaller boats as mainsheet foot blocks or boom vangs. 

Snatch Blocks

You'll use snatch blocks in temporary situations. Though most blocks have closed sides, requiring you to feed the line through the sheave, snatch blocks have a hinged side plate, allowing you to open and close the block around the line without threading it. With this convenient design, you can attach them to ropes under tension and remove them when there's no slack. You'll use snatch blocks in situations where you need to quickly attach or redirect a rope under tension — like rescue operations or rigging setups that need frequent changes.

Ratchet Blocks

Ratchet blocks use a locking mechanism to prevent the line from slipping backward. This system lets you hold the load in place with the block without continuous manual tension. Ratchet blocks work through an inner sheave that secures the line while a pawl stops the sheave from turning toward the load. Ratchet blocks are ideal for boating applications where you need to secure a load for hands-free operation or at a specific height. You'll mainly use ratchet blocks in sheet systems since they can hold loads in place.

Deck Organizers, Cheek Blocks and Stand-Up Blocks

Various deck organizers are available to divert and lead lines across your deck. While standard sheave blocks follow the pull direction, these organizers sit fixed to a service. Cheek blocks make excellent deck organizers — they guide lines parallel to a surface, fitting them as closely together as possible. Stand-up blocks are another helpful deck organizer block. They stand fixed vertically and work well for uses where you want to avoid having the block hitting the deck.

Considerations When Choosing Boat Blocks

It's essential to consider all factors when deciding what sailboat block you need. Boat blocks perform vital functions on your vessel — getting the right block for the job enables you to safely and smoothly operate your raft on the water. When buying your boat blocks, you should evaluate the expected forces, rope diameter and brand. Examine these factors to help you find the best block for your needs.

Expected Forces and Breaking Loads

While you might think you need a block based solely on boat size, you must also calculate the expected forces and breaking loads you'll be dealing with. The larger your rig — the halyard and sheets — the more forces your vessel will deal with as they catch wind. Larger rigs typically have correspondingly larger lines, so a too-small block will break under sudden, strong tensile forces caused by rough seas. Selecting the correct block from the get-go is even more crucial, since damage will not be immediately apparent. Instead, it will seem fine, only failing the next time it's under load. 

What loads will your blocks deal with? Determine each block's required maximum load capacity and select blocks that can surpass it. Exceeding the expected forces ensures your blocks can handle potential shock loads and all expected forces. All manufacturers state the maximum tensile force each block can handle without damage. 

Rope Diameter

If you choose a block with a higher load-bearing capacity than your line, the rope material is not an essential detail for selecting a block. The rope diameter is much more critical to the block you choose. The rope's cross-section must match the block sheave's width to prevent early material wear. A too-small block will increase friction, causing decreased efficiency and possible damage. If the line is too thin, it will slip out of the sheave and affect performance. 

Only wire rope blocks are an exception for this factor. Since their sheaves deal with extremely high demands, you'll want to get blocks made for use with wire ropes to ensure the best performance and minimal wear. 

Getting the appropriate block type is essential for maintaining boat safety and efficiency. Otherwise, your block will not perform correctly. Checking your block location and usage on the boat will help you match the hardware to the job. If you need help choosing a block type, consult your boat supplies retailer for assistance. Their experts can help direct you to the correct block for your needs, ensuring you get a trustworthy system for your boat. 

Various hardware brands have different pricing and performance. Going with a higher-priced manufacturer like Harken, Lewmar or Schaefer will increase your expenses but provide you with a lasting piece of hardware. Other brands like Ronstan offer excellent quality at a lower price, though you might need to replace their products sooner. Choosing a reputable brand ensures you get a reliable product. Whatever brand you select, ensure its quality so you can trust it to support you on the water. 

Boat Block Maintenance

Once you install your boat blocks, you must keep them in top shape. Otherwise, you'll have to replace them much earlier than necessary, compromising safety when they fail and increasing your expenses. Taking time to perform regular maintenance helps reduce friction, prevent failures and avoid premature wear. Remember these best practices to protect your boat hardware.

• Inspect:  You should regularly inspect your boat blocks and other hardware for signs of corrosion, wear or damage. Closely check cheeks, sheaves and other components for deformations, cracks and excessive wear. Inspect attachment points like shackles and mounting hardware to ensure they have secure connections. Inspections allow you to proactively catch problems. The faster you can detect and address any issues, the better you'll be at preventing further damage and accidents. 
• Clean:  Clean boat blocks to remove debris, dirt, salt and other contaminants. Buildup can affect block performance, reducing efficiency and leading to accelerated wear. Use a specialized marine cleaner or a mild soap combined with a soft cloth or brush to clean the hardware. After gently cleaning the blocks, rinse thoroughly with fresh water to remove all residue. Never use harsh chemicals when cleaning, as they could damage the block's materials or functionality. 
• Lubricate:  Proper lubrication is essential for reducing friction and maintaining a smooth operation. Apply the correct marine lubricant to the block's sheaves, bearings or brushings according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lubrication helps minimize wear and maintains efficient block rotation. Always use lubricants specifically designed for marine use, with formulations that prevent corrosion. 
• Check ropes:  Check ropes used with boat blocks for wear and fraying. Clean your ropes regularly to shield them from damage. You should also store them properly to prevent UV damage and entanglement. Finally, consider rotating your ropes so they wear evenly. 
• Replace:  Regularly monitor your boat blocks and replace them if they start showing signs of severe wear and tear or as they reach the end of their recommended life span. 
• Professional help:  If you have a complex or critical rigging system, consider getting a professional rigger to inspect your setup. Periodic professional inspections provide a thorough breakdown of your system's condition and allow you to get expert recommendations on repairs or replacements. 

High-Quality Boat Blocks From Fawcett Boat Supplies

Boat blocks are critical for ensuring your boat's enjoyment and safety. Investing in  high-quality boat supplies  helps protect you and your vessel whenever you want to enjoy some time on the water. Fawcett Boat Supplies provides you with an unmatched selection, enabling you to maximize your boating experience. We've offered exceptional products to our customers since 1948, making us an industry leader in supplies and expertise. You can trust us for all your boating needs. 

From an  extensive array of boating supplies  to  expert boating services , Fawcett has everything you need for safe, efficient boating. Contact us  online today to learn more about our product selection!

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• Sailing, Rigging & Deck

Blocks: How to find the right block for your yacht

In this guide we tell you everything there is to know about which block to buy, what they are used for and the types of bearing available. We also have valuable tips to make sure you get the most life out of your blocks on board.

• Blocks then and now
• Block manufacturers and what to know when replacing them

Types of block and distinguishing features

• Sheave block
• Fiddle block
• Snatch block
• Ratchet block

Which block is the right one for my boat?

• Rope type and diameter
• Intended use

Which bearing is best and for which purpose?

• Plain bearing
• Roller bearing
• Ball bearing

Use & maintenance

• Can I use a thinner line diameter than is recommended?
• How often should maintenance be carried out?

„Blocks then and now"

Blocks have been and still are an essential part of boating equipment. In the past, just as their name suggests, they were simply a block of wood, or to get technical, they were wooden blocks with a hole. They were used on board not only to run sheets and line, but also to facilitate carrying loads. Today, little has changed in principle. However, modern blocks feature an integrated bearing and are less prone to wear and tear, and above all, they are much easier to use.

Bestsellers in Blocks

What are the various block manufacturers and what is important when replacing them?

Blocks come in a wide variety of designs and sizes. This is hardly surprising, as most rig manufacturers, such as Lewmar or Seldén , produce their own blocks. They usually come with clear instructions as to exactly where and how they should be used. If a block needs to be replaced and it is a fixed part of the rig at a particular location, for example the mast base or masthead, it's worth looking at the rig manufacturer's specifications. This way, you can make sure it will work perfectly and you shouldn’t have any issues using it.

When replacing blocks, warranty claims can sometimes also be affected. It's important to comply with manufacturer specifications, for example on back stays. If a block fails due to it being the wrong type, not only do you risk damaging the rig, you could also have a problem with your yacht insurance.

This shouldn’t be the case if you are planning to set up a new rig, such as a self-tacking jib conversion or lazy jack system, and you can go ahead and buy whatever blocks you wish to use. Nevertheless, care should be taken when selecting the size of the block. You can use so-called mini blocks for lazy jacks, while self-tacking jibs require blocks that can carry much heavier loads. Sometimes, original parts are no longer available for older yachts and new blocks are needed. To meet the demand for this equipment, various manufacturers offer a broad range of blocks, and a number of specialist manufacturers can satisfy the needs of any sailor with their own niche products:

Made in Germany: Pfeiffer and Sprenger blocks, for dinghies and cruising sailboats

The German manufacturers Pfeiffer and Sprenger focus on cruising sailors with their tough blocks designed for durability. Both have a wide range of blocks, and they also supply all kinds of special fairlead blocks and so-called mini-blocks, e.g. for pennants or Lazyjacks lazy jacks as mentioned above. Blocks from Sprenger   Blocks from Pfeiffer

Wood-look blocks from Hye

Hye’s blocks have been favourites with veteran sailors for a long time, as their blocks look great on classic yachts. With their distinctive red-brown synthetic resin fabric made of Tufnol, Hye has created a classic block. They look similar to a classic wooden block, but are much lighter and more robust. Blocks from HYE

The specialists: Blocks by Barton, Ronstan and Antal

Also using Tufnol, but not coloured, is Barton. Barton blocks are designed for more sporty sailors and yawl boats, where the low weight of Tufnol is a special feature of its products. A further manufacturer in the sports sector, the Australian manufacturer Ronstan, has made a name for itself with its Orbit blocks. Similar to Antal blocks, Dyneema loops replace the classic metal eyes for mounting on the fitting. The loops do not feature any bearings, but they have the advantage of being extremely lightweight and easy to handle, without requiring any maintenance. Both manufacturers make blocks with a technical performance and stylish appearance to match. Blocks from Barton   Blocks from Ronstan   Blocks from Antal

Harken: The Rolls Royce of yacht blocks!

The American manufacturer Harken offers a wide range of different blocks and sheet systems. They have sailboat blocks with high-tech bearings in wooden casings, as well as carbo blocks for the highest regatta demands. Harken dominates at high-profile sailing events, such as the Americas Cup, Volvo Ocean Race and the Olympics. But high quality comes at a price and some blocks may be excessive to all requirements. Blocks from Harken

Our conclusion

The choice is indeed large, so for those who do not want to limit their search to one manufacturer, you should first determine what kind of block you need and where you intend to use it, then compare the different manufacturers.

What types of blocks are there for boats and what makes them different?

Sheave block - the most common design.

Sheave blocks are usually mounted on the deck or boom with a shackle and run a line over a sheave. They are used wherever direction of tension has to be changed ( mast base, foresheet, reef lines , etc.) Depending on the number of sheaves built into the block, they are referred to as single sheave blocks or multiple sheave blocks. The number of sheaves, whether one, two or three, depends largely on the mechanical advantage desired for the respective sheet. In addition to single blocks, double blocks are the most commonly used blocks. Double or multi-sheave blocks are used, for example, in the construction of a mainsheet jib

Fiddle block – perfect as a boom vang

A fiddle block . is another type of multi-sheave block. Here, the individual sheaves are not mounted side by side on a common axis, but one below the other, creating a shape similar to that of a violin or fiddle. This block is often found on smaller vessels and dinghies as a boom vang or mainsheet foot block. A cleat on the block can also help adjust and quickly release rope directly.

Snatch blocks - for quick line reeving

In special cases where a block is only needed temporarily, a special type of block can be useful i.e. a snatch block. Snatch blocks can be opened on one side, allowing them to be attached to a line under tension and removed again, even when the line is still taut. Snatch blocks are therefore often used as barber haulers on spinnakers. However, they are also suitable wherever lines need to be reeved quickly, as line does not need to be passed through individual blocks one after the other.

Our top-selling fiddle blocks

Ratchet blocks – perfect for reducing pressure on a sheet

Sheets are often pulled by hand on smaller boats. A ratchet block reduces the tug on a line, or sheet. Here, an inner sheave grips the rope, and a pawl prevents the sheave from turning in the direction of the load, producing the familiar ratchet sound. When the sheet is furled, the line, which then runs over the bearing roller, is also held. Because the sheave can rotate and grip, this allows for controlled easing of the line. On larger yachts where sheets are operated using winches, the reverse direction of the winch does this. Ratchet blocks are therefore mainly found in the sheet system of dinghies. They're often used with spinnaker sheets or in the mainsheet block. Many high-quality ratchet blocks also have a small lever to adjust the amount of hold.

Dynablock – a light-weight all-round wonder

Less weight is not only an advantage in regattas. Ultra-light Antal Dyna blocks can be used as a snatch block or mounted where fixed eyes and fittings are missing. Instead of a metal shackle, simply attach the Dynablock with a Dyneema eyelet. A popular choice on cruising yachts, not only because of the lighter weight, but more because they eliminate sources of squeaking and rattling on deck. On top of that, Dynablocks are extremely easy to install and can therefore also be added to a spinnaker or jib sheet as a barber hauler.

Deck organisers - lead / divert lines easily across the deck

Organisers and deflection blocks are designed to lead / divert lines across the deck. They come in many shapes and sizes and can consist of one or more sheaves. However, where a normal sheave block adapts to the direction of pull, blocks like this are designed to be fixed to a surface. Cheek blocks guide lines as low as possible to the surface they are attached to. Examples can almost always be found between the cockpit and the mastbase, to lead / deflect lines in a tidy fashion and avoid running them over a deck hatch. Cheek blocks are often used as deck oganiser blocks for this reason. Blocks that are designed to stand in a vertical position are called stand-up blocks. They are usually found at the mastbase, as a sheet block on a genoa car, or other applications where you don't want the block to hit the deck. Stand-up blocks, cheek blocks and organisers could be summarised as deck blocks. Also included here are deflection blocks that are mounted on a stanchion for leading furling lines aft, for example.

Our top-selling deck organisers

Summary of block types

• Sheave block: Usually mounted on the deck or boom with a shackle. Use: Mastbase, foresheet, reef lines etc. Find them as single blocks or blocks with more than one sheave.
• Fiddle block: Often found on smaller vessels and dinghies as a boom vang or main sheet foot block.
• Snatch block: Often used to rig barber haulers on spinnakers.
• Ratchet block: Reduces the pull on a line, or sheet. Mostly used on dinghies.
• Dynablock: Dynablocks are extremely light, do not squeak or rattle and are easy to mount. Perfect for barber haulers.
• Organisers: Organisers are fixed in place and immovable. Footblocks and are used, for example, to reduce the pressure on the mainsheet.

What role does the size of the boat play?

The choice of block is usually determined by the halyards and sheets used, not by the boat size. Larger rigs are often subjected to greater forces and lines have larger diameters. The crucial factors in determining which blocks to use here are the expected forces and the resulting breaking loads. If the block chosen is too small, it will not be able to withstand sudden tensile forces, for example caused by rough seas, and the block could break or bearings become damaged. Damage caused by this kind of excessive stress is not visible on the outside of the block. It only becomes apparent when the block is placed under load again, and the bearing jams due to uneven rolling surfaces. Manufacturers specify the maximum tensile force a block can withstand without damage.

SVB tip: It's best to keep the normal stress you place on your block to about half the breaking load of the line you are using. This should be the so-called working load, which allows for sufficient reserves in case of sudden, brief forces. Matching blocks directly to the line is not necessary for all installations. The angle of a diversion also plays a role in determining the size of the block to be used.

Example: When a jib pulls on a sheet, half of the force is distributed between the knot on the clew and half on the winch. In the case of a self-tacking jib, the line is fed through about 180 degrees to the bow via the fitting on the track and then diverted again through 180 degrees to the winch. 50 per cent of the force pulls on the respective ends of the line, but 100 per cent on the track and 100 per cent on the bow. Changing the direction by only 90 degrees instead of 180 degrees reduces the pull on the block fitting by about half. A change of only 45 degrees reduces the pull to a quarter. The lower the angle of diversion, the lower the expected load.

What role does rope diameter and rope type play in choosing a block?

In general, rope material doesn't really matter when it comes to blocks. As long as the line is used within the limits of its respective breaking load, choose a block with a slightly higher load-bearing capacity. A much more important factor than rope material is its diameter. The cross-section of the rope must match the width of the block sheave to avoid material wear. On the other hand, of course, the line must not be too thin, otherwise it will not grip the bearing and slip through. Wire rope blocks are an exception here. Their sheaves are subjected to particularly high demands. For this reason, especially suitable blocks should always be used for wire ropes.

What are different blocks used for and where?

Various blocks are used on yachts for different purposes. Multi-sheave blocks are used to reduce force and, for example, in jib sheet rigging. Where the block is located also often determines the type of block: on the barber hauler on the spinnaker, for example, light weight is a key factor. The block must not pull the sheet down in light wind conditions and thus cause the spinnaker to collapse. Conversely, for multi-sheave blocks, the mounting point on deck must take the combined force of the lines in the block. If direction of pull cannot be determined exactly, it is worthwhile to install a block with a swivel. This protects the deck fitting from excessive stress due to shear forces.

Summary of choosing the right block

• Size of the boat: Not important when choosing the type, but relevant for halyards and sheets used.
• Rope diameter: More important than rope material is rope diameter. The rope cross-section must match the width of the sheave in the block.

Which boat block bearing is suitable for which purpose?

Sheave, bearing, fitting. At first glance, all blocks look very similar. However, the differences are in the details and we need to take a look inside. Where a block is used determines not only its design, but also the recommended bearing. Yacht blocks are really tested at the mast base: during the course of a season, control blocks here are constantly subjected to halyard tension, especially after a roller furling system has been installed in the spring, for example. It will still be in place even when in the harbour, provided the genoa remains furled on the forestay. Therefore, the sheet block at the mast base must be particularly stable.

Plain bearings - run lines and halyards in one direction.

A halyard block at the mast base , and possibly also the masthead, must not only run smoothly to provide adequate halyard tension when setting the sails, it must also be able to withstand forces and loads acting on one point. This stress is exacerbated when a rig is working in swell. Water is by no means a rigid element, so the boat moves almost continuously. The bearings in a halyard block are therefore prone to uneven wear and must be manufactured to a particularly high standard. In such places, plain bearing blocks are the best choice. In such places, plain bearing blocks are the best choice. They have many advantages compared to roller bearings: starting with low space requirements, resulting in a more compact design of the entire block. This is due to the running surfaces of the plain bearing block moving directly on top of each other. Only a thin film of lubricant reduces resistance.

Within a plain bearing block, the constant force of the halyard tension is distributed over a contiguous area. This significantly reduces wear and tear and increases service life. Moreover, plain bearings are usually manufactured to be maintenance-free and will not become dirty even if the bearing is not moved for a while. However, if tensile forces are not applied in exactly the right direction, they can be more sensitive, and due to the way they are designed, faults can occur in this case. Both running surfaces must be perfectly smooth, with exactly the right amount of force, so that there is no resistance. Plain bearing blocks are therefore always used where halyards can follow a clearly defined path and are mounted in exactly the same direction of pull.

Rolling bearings - when forces can act in all directions

One of the earliest types of roller bearing was discovered in the early days of shipbuilding. In order to launch entire ships into the water, logs were used to roll the finished hull down the beach and into the water. This principle can still be seen today in so-called rolling bearings. Instead of heavy tree trunks, cylindrical rolling elements and ball bearings are used. Ball bearing blocks are also a kind of roller bearing, since the balls roll between an inner and an outer ring, which reduces frictional resistance.

As load capacity is distributed over the contact surface of the bearings, in ball bearings, it is more specific. However, in roller bearing blocks, load capacity is distributed more evenly, since they have more surface area contact. The more rollers in the bearing, the smaller they are and more surface areas carry the load. Blocks with very small rollers are referred to as needle roller bearing blocks. Roller bearing blocks are not as sensitive as plain bearing blocks. They can also absorb lateral fluctuating loads well. With needle bearings, however, the pull should come from the same direction of installation. They should therefore only be used in places where direction of pull is fixed, as with deck blocks.

Ball bearings - the first choice for barber haulers, movable block fixtures and sheets

Classic ball bearings, on the other hand, are designed to rotate freely and can handle both radial and thrust loads. Ball bearing blocks are therefore always the first choice for all movable blocks on sheets, barbers and similar places. Their minimal resistance to movement. is achieved by the balls lying in a groove inside the bearing. These deep groove ball bearings can absorb lateral loads well without increasing rolling resistance.

Our top-selling ball bearing blocks

Summary of choosing the right bearing

• Plain bearing: Plain bearings are maintenance-free and seldom get dirty, but lines must run precisely for this.
• Roller bearings: Can carry higher loads than plain bearing blocks.
• Ball bearings: Ideal where loads are more moderate and dynamic. For spinnaker sheets and barber haulers.

Can I use a thinner line diameter than is recommended for a block?

In principle, blocks should be matched to the lines used. If line diameter is too large, you’ll usually be able to tell because the line won’t run freely through a block without shearing. But too small a rope diameter can also be problematic. This is because the guide groove of the roller in the block is matched to lines with the corresponding diameter. About half of them are carried and deflected by this groove over their entire surface. Thinner lines, on the other hand, take up a proportionally smaller part of the surface. Under tension, a line that is too thin line is then no longer run evenly around the sheave, but pulled down at the apex and squeezed into the groove. The result is a loss of breaking load of the line, as well as higher wear in the rope.

How often do I have to carry out repairs and replacements on the blocks on my ship?

Most blocks in sailing are maintenance-free. The housings are also usually riveted. A riveted block can therefore only be inspected from the outside. Open ball bearings or roller bearing blocks should be rinsed with clear water from time to time, especially when used in salt water. This will prevent salt deposits and the consequent formation of grooves. Lubrication is not necessary with these bearings and is even counterproductive, as grease in particular tends to slow down the rollers and prevent them from rolling freely. Moreover, plain bearings are usually enclosed systems, which makes maintenance unnecessary. However, blocks are also among the most stressed parts on board. Maintenance-free therefore does not mean that you don’t need to pay attention to them. A brief check from time to time can help prevent serious damage caused by block failure. Ideally, the roller should always move a little, even under tension. If it does not run smoothly, makes noticeable noises or you can see mechanical defects such as cracks, the complete block should be replaced immediately. - Therefore, always make sure you have a set of spare blocks on your ship.

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Author Hinnerk Weiler

Hinnerk Weiler is a sailing journalist, long-distance sailor and real "old salt". An experienced sailor and expert in boat technology, when it comes to the world of blocks on board, he knows what he's talking about.

Find out more about the author »

The sailboat block (commonly referred to as a pulley ) is used to turn a line  or wire  as well as to facilitate a purchase.

The parts of a block , in simple terms, consist of the following:

• a sheave for the line to run on
• a sheave pin or axle for the sheave to spin on
• a strap or a shell (depending on design) which provides the structure between the sheave pin and the attachment point. A shell acts as both strap and cheek.
• Cheeks to house the strap and protect it from snags
• an eye, hook, fork, shackle, strop or loop to attach the block to something

Another term that you’ll need to be acquainted with but not all blocks are equipped with, is Becket – an attachment for the end of a line to be affixed to; typically for a multiple part purchase system. There are yet even more fun parts of a block that aren’t as important for the layman, for example: crown, face, breech, swallow, tail, Tally Plate, score, and I’m sure I’m missing some. I just wanted to show off :-0)

HOW DO I KNOW WHICH ONE TO BUY!?

As with most things in the sailboat parts world, things end up more confusing than clear once we actually get into it. For this reason alone many boaters trust those decisions to industry experts, such as riggers. Replacing a sailboat block unfortunately is no exception. When talking about modern day cruising or racing boats (anything not made of wood), there are many block manufacturers and model options available on the market. This can lead to the boat owner ending up needing to make more decisions than he or she was perhaps prepared for. Before embarking on the seemingly simple task of choosing blocks, allow The Rigging Company to shed some light on how we go about selecting the right block for the job…

First let’s start with a list of popular manufacturers and go from there. In terms of brands:  Antal ,  Holt ,  Ronstan ,  Harken ,  Schaefer ,  Lewmar ,  Karver and Selden are some of the popular options available to choose from. Here is where the easy part ends and the confusion begins. Before you can figure out what type of block you’ll need, you still need to figure which model  you like/want/need. Each one of these manufacturers will offer various design choices with even more jargon to add to your list: Carbo, ESP, Black Magic, Series 5, Series 7, OPF, Stainless, Classic, Looper, Orbit, Synchros, HTX, Core, Plain Bearing, Low load, Ball Bearing, High load; and on, and on, and on…

…Then, after that you’ll have yet even more decisions to make, like  which size : 40mm, 45mm, 57mm, 60mm and so on. The final decision will be, what type … is it a double, triple, single, becket, snatch, cheek, foot, fiddle, ratchet, or any combination thereof…

…and when you’re all done figuring it out you may find yourself going home with a 57mm Harken Carbo Becket Fiddle Ratchet Cam….Block .

Confused yet :-p.

Lets see if we can’t clear this up a bit…

WHICH MANUFACTURER: Of all of the brands listed above you will find that they all have something to offer that is worthwhile, some more than others. So this part of it many times can be narrowed down to what matches the already existing stuff on your boat, which brand you’ve heard good things about, or simply who offers just the right look for what you want. If you’re still not sure, a good place to start is the two brands that are sold the most here at our shop:   Schaefer and Harken. Schaefer is typically our first choice for the dedicated classic looking cruiser, and Harken is typically our ‘go to’ for the more modern looking racer-cruiser. As long as you take the time to size a block properly for its use, any new block that you want to equip your boat with will surely offer you years of trouble free service. Simple as that; you really can’t go terribly wrong in terms of which manufacturer you pick.

WHICH MODEL: Now we get into a bit more detail and this is where you’ll have to narrow it down based on what type of boat you have and what your budget might be. To keep this short, we’ll talk about what The Rigging Company (TRC) is always looking for in a good block. When choosing non-metal bearings look for Torlon or  Delrin ball bearings. For UV resistance, we recommend choosing a black colored bearing over white, if there is a choice.  For the same reason we always prefer a black color if choosing a non-metal, composite sheave.

Torlon is the premium choice when it comes to roller bearing material.

The staff at TRC will tend to lean towards metal sheaves and cheeks, when available, for block longevity. If the block’s sheave pins are removable and the block can be disassembled and serviced, this is a big plus in our book. Also, it’s worth mentioning that we prefer blocks with forged shackles instead of stamped shackles. Having said that, other than the bit about white plastic ball bearings and white sheaves, none of these parts and what they’re made of are hard lines to our decision making, as much more goes into it.

BALL BEARING or PLAIN BEARING that is the question: Of course we always prefer roller bearings, right? Not always, as it turns out you don’t always need the rip roaring action of ball bearings, particularly in applications where the block isn’t especially free running, but under a lot of tension for long periods, like a boom topping lift or cascading backstay. Roller bearing blocks like to move and don’t particularly favor being under static loads for long periods of time. This can cause flat spots in the bearing, causing the block to not operate properly. If nothing else, ball bearings can start to become a noise nuisance when the boat and its rigging experiences very slight vibrations, causing a harmonic effect. Those of you that have heard that sound at anchor know what I’m talking about, it’s likely the ball bearing topping lift block hanging above your boom. Although we at TRC use and recommend mostly roller bearing blocks, keep in mind, less moving parts make for less maintenance.

SIZE and TYPE: These last criteria, likely the most critical, are perhaps also the easiest. Deciding the type or style of block is simply a matter of what is required, e.g. 2 sheaves, 1 sheave and a dead end (Becket), etc…  Once that has been figured out we’re down to size. Typically the manufacturer categorizes their sizing using sheave size. Some manufacturers will use metric sizing such as 60 mm and some may use imperial terms like 2-3/8″. You will find that in most cases this sizing relates to the recommended line diameters, as well as load capacity. Paying attention to these last two details is the most crucial component to choosing the right block. This information should be listed on the product packaging or online specifications.

OH! Perhaps one other final consideration in the type or style category is: does the sheave need to ratchet or maybe support a metal wire?

Do youhave any additional thoughts? Tell us what you think . What is your favorite block and why? We’d love to hear from you!

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You are missing the brand Allen from your list of block manufacturers, the picture of the Holt snatch block is a copy of the Allen one which we first designed and manufactured. Our products can be found on dinghies and small keel boats throughout the world and are used by National, European, World and Olympic champions. Success so far this year, International Dragon Worlds in Perth, Western Australia.

Thank you Graham for noticing. You know I am embarrassed to say that perhaps we didn’t account for this split up when we wrote the article. It’s been republished at least once since the original. I don’t even see that snatch block that on their site anymore. So it is just an Allen Snatch Block now? Part #A4475, right? I will update the link in the article.

Again thank you for noticing, I am sure we would noticed when we updated the article, but perhaps not.

No Worries, we split over 10 years ago due to Holt’s relationship with Nautos. Allen were always the manufacturer of the products and we continue to do so with ever greater success. We sponsor a number of Olympic teams to ensure our products are always up to scratch. We also supply the worlds leading dinghy brands. We have also just started fitting out the Petticrow International Dragon last Autumn (Fall) which has already culminated in a World Championship in Perth, Australia, in January. We will also be fitting out the new Etchells being built in Cowes in the coming months. To cut a long story short, if you have been using Harken’s Carbo Magic range, you may well want to have a closer look at our Dynamic range, both in quality and price.

If you are interested in any of our products, please don’t hesitate to give me a call or send an email, I’d be happy to help.

Best Regards

Graham Adams +44 (0) 1621 773715 +44 (0) 7736 132880 [email protected] [cid:[email protected]] [cid:[email protected]] Cert No. 11184-QMS-001

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Sailing Blocks are used for various purposes onboard a yacht or sailboat.

Here is a guide to the different types available and the various uses for sailing blocks.

The term Block (also known as a pulley) refers to a manufactured part incorporating a wheel and an axle, which allows the wheel to rotate.

The wheel has a groove, and the rope or wire sits in the groove. The wheel may also be called a drum but is commonly called a sheave.

The axle is also known as the pin, bush or bearing.

The pulley or block is used to lift or lower heavy objects and facilitate a rope or wire's smooth change in direction.

Onboard a yacht or boat, the pulleys have specific names depending on the task. Blocks have many uses, from simply hoisting flags to managing heavy sails.

Over centuries, new technological developments have advanced the design of sailing blocks to become faster, smoother, stronger, and more dynamic in their specific use, depending on the task.

The main types of blocks are as follows:

Rachet Blocks

The main characteristics of each type of block are explained below.

The plain bearing block, the mainstay of the running rigging on a cruising yacht, is developed from the traditional dead eye, which has no moving parts and originated as a piece of hardwood, e.g. lignum vitae, with carefully grooved holes. Things have gone full circle with the advent of the modern-day low-friction ring equivalent.

Plain bearing means that the sheave rotates directly on a simple central axle, i.e. the transverse pin between the cheeks of the block. The sheave (pulley wheel) may have a load-bearing bush, also known as a bushing or sleeve bearing. The aim of adding a bush is to reduce friction and resultant wear. The bush that bears the load originates from the term Plain Bearing.

Plain bearing block features:

• No ball bearings, no roller bearings!
• Simple construction with only one moving part, the least possible to construct a serviceable pulley.
• Low maintenance
• The sheave rotates directly on a simple axle pin, which may have a load-bearing bush - sheaves have a groove designed to accept rope or wire sympathetically and are machined from nylon, aluminium alloy, brass or similar materials.
• Cost effective - reasonably priced compared with ball bearing or roller bearing blocks.
• Excellent for high static loads
• Excellent all round, multi-purpose functionality
• Excellent working life – no bearings to be crushed or fall out

Blocks with rolling elements are an engineering development of the plain bearing block.

Ball Bearing Blocks are ideal for running rigging applications where the line needs to run fast through the system and where the line needs constant adjustment under load, e.g. racing sheets - "release, pump, tension, release, pump, tension".

Blocks with bearings will run faster under light load and cope much better with fine-tuning adjustment under extreme load.

Ball Bearings in blocks are designed to rotate freely and can be identified by the fantastic whizzing sound they make when spun by hand under no load.

Ball Bearings are a set of multiple, relatively small diameter, spherical balls encapsulated in a ball 'race or cage' between the sheave and the rotating axle.

The inner and outer ball race holds the balls captive and allows them to roll so freely that they are as close as possible to frictionless.

The hardened, round surfaces of the spherical balls can handle both radial and thrust loads.

The minimal contact surface area between the small spherical balls is the reason for their negligible resistance to movement.

However, because the load-bearing surface is also low, ball bearings are susceptible to distortion when subjected to heavy force.

The picture shows a Harken ball bearing block, a ball bearing and a Selden ball bearing block.

Ball bearing block features:

• Virtually frictionless sheave rotation for free-running lines
• Outstanding response under dynamic loads
• Ultimate performance and functionality for racing
• Suitable for rapid release and continual tuning
• Excellent durability with Delrin/Torlon ball bearings

Roller Bearing Blocks are the 'Rolls Royce' premium choice for high load-bearing capability and low resistance under dynamic load. Go for roller bearings if you want exceptional performance for Racing, Regatta or Performance Cruising, especially for applications where it may be necessary to release or adjust a control line under extreme tension. Prompt, safe and efficient manoeuvers can be more easily achieved if the control line can be fine-tuned or released under pressure, e.g. your running backstay/vang/kicker purchase, main sheet or spinnaker halyard.

Roller Bearings are a succession of small diameter tubes or cylinders fitted into a roller 'race or cage' between the sheave and the axle. Roller bearings have more surface area contact than ball bearings. The increased surface area increases the load capacity and distributes it more evenly so that roller-bearing blocks generally have a much higher resistance to distortion under load than ball-bearing blocks. Roller bearings run less freely than ball bearings but have exceptionally low friction.

The picture shows a roller bearing on a sheave, an exploded diagram of a Harken roller bearing block, and another roller bearing design.

Roller bearing block features:

• Ultimate dynamic load capacity
• Premium Choice for severe conditions
• Excellent effectiveness under extreme static loads
• Outstanding response under acute dynamic loads
• Ultimate all-round, multi-purpose, high-performance functionality for Regatta sailing
• Excellent durability with Torlon roller bearings

Ratchet Blocks are ball-bearing blocks with an extra built-in braking mechanism.

The sheave is designed to grip the line and allow the brake to take the load. The braking feature is a ratchet system which stops the sheave from rotating.

The sheave design on a ratchet block differs from the smooth, rounded finish on a standard plain or roller-bearing block. Ratchet sheaves are typically designed with eight-sided facets (they look a little bit like shallow gypsy wheel pockets). These facets (flat angled surfaces) grip the line when the ratchet is working under load.

The ratchet works like a socket wrench or the internal workings of a sheet winch. There are ratchet pawls which drop into teeth as the sheave rotates. This is what makes the distinctive clicking noise. When rotation is ceased, the ratchet pawl engages the aligned tooth and holds a share of the load, using the friction created between the rope and the faceted sheave.

Ratchet blocks make it easier for your crew to haul in, manually hold and adjust lines, which would otherwise be impossible to physically manage under load. They also allow lines cleated under extreme tension to be eased without jumping out and ripping through your hands as soon as the jammer is released.

On dinghies, dayboats and small yachts, ratchet blocks counteract the need for jamming cleats on jib, spinnaker and mainsheets. However, a jammer may still be necessary to free your hands, for, e.g. adjusting control lines or giving your fingers a much-needed rest! On larger yachts, they offer extra control for trimming the spinnaker on a winch.

Ratchet Blocks are available in two distinct variations:

• Manual Ratchet Blocks feature a switch for on/off engagement - When the ratchet is on, the sheave will only operate in one direction to pull the line in. The ratchet mechanism that takes the load prevents any rotation in the other direction, which means that when the line is eased, it will have to run around a static crenellated sheave.
• Automatic Ratchet Blocks are fitted with an automatic tension sensing mechanism, which engages at a pre-set load and automatically releases when the line is eased. The roller bearings run freely in both directions under low loads and automatically engage as the pressure increases. Shifting between heavy and light loads is intuitive and seamless.

Ratchet blocks are, in effect, a miniature version of a winch without a winch handle (also known as a snubber), which can perform a similar function within the limits presented by a much smaller surface area due to the narrower diameter.

Some class rules outlaw any mechanical advantage for pulling in the sheets, which prevent the use of winches, e.g. Beer Luggers, where there is a great onus on ratchet blocks and snubbers to enable the crew to haul in, hold and control a loose-footed mainsail of around 300 square feet by hand. Ratchet blocks require less effort to control the sail than a normal free-running block.

Ratchet blocks are generally suitable for sheets on boats up to and including 6-metre sports boats and on larger boats in tandem with a winch with some caveats (these are not exhaustive):

• Mainsheet systems must be attached to the boom in multiple spots near the stern end (away from the gooseneck) to reduce/spread the load.
• Spinnaker sheets require a winch back-up option if the breeze gets up.
• Jibs and Genoas generally don’t need ratchets. The shorter sheet lengths mean the sail can usually be secured in a cleat or around a winch before it becomes fully loaded
• Ratchet blocks can be mounted in series so that spinnaker sheets on, e.g. Sports Boats like the Melges and J24s, can be hand trimmed in all conditions. The holding power can be fine-tuned by engaging/disengaging the ratchets to match the breeze strength.

Line Diameter and Specification – Important Factors:

Select the correct diameter line for the block because only a correctly matched diameter line will grip effectively in the flat facets on the sheave.

Select the appropriate rope finish - ropes with a smooth, hard feel will not hold as effectively as those with a more supple, pliable construction.

Select a line that will withstand the massive wear and tear increase caused by continuous adjustment on the faceted sheave. This means a regatta performance line is normally required, preferably with Dyneema or Technora blended with polypropylene (lighter weight) or polyester (heavy duty).

Snatch Blocks are an extremely useful addition to the rigging spares inventory on any sailing yacht because they can quickly and efficiently provide a temporary solution to various line routing issues.

• Jimmy Green offers various options from leading block manufacturers: Holt, Allen, Lewmar, Harken and Wichard.

What is a Snatch Block? A snatch block is a single sheave pulley where one of the side cheeks/straps opens to allow a rope to be inserted, without the rigmarole of reeving the line through the entire system. The opening function is achieved in varying designs by different manufacturers, but the purpose remains the same, e.g.

• Holt, Allen, Lewmar and Wichard - hinged head located on the sheave pin
• Harken and Wichard - soft attachment, removable on one side

Soft blocks perform a similar function to snatch blocks - made from a horseshoe shape fairlead - effectively an open-ended low friction ring - with a Dyneema loop which can be attached and detached.

Snatch Block Facts, Features and Plus Factors:

• The extra design and manufacturing process makes snatch blocks much more expensive than standard design blocks.
• The opening design allows a rope to be inserted without any reeving required - especially helpful if the line is long and it passes through multiple leads and clutches.
• Open the block, insert the line, close the block securely and attach the head of the block to your intended strongpoint.
• Quick and effective solution for changing sheet or control line leads.
• Excellent as temporary or spinnaker sheet-turning blocks.
• Can also be easily employed to create a 2:1 purchase, doubling the pulling power.

Visit our Deck Hardware category to explore the range of blocks available.

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"Block" is the nautical term for a pulley. Blocks make it easier to lift heavy loads and overcome significant force with rope.

Blocks are used in purchase systems on sailboats so sailors can better control the high amounts of load created by wind and sails. The way to make this difficult task simpler is by designing blocks that run freely and reduce the friction caused by sheets and lines in purchase systems. So what is the difference between ball bearing blocks and non-ball bearing blocks?

Ball Bearing Block

Ball bearing blocks are best for any system on your boat that does not see "static loads," or low-movement applications. Examples of a few recommended ball bearing block applications are main, jib, and spinnaker sheeting systems, traveler cars, and controls, and running rigging backstay runner blocks. Compared to non-ball bearing blocks, ball bearing blocks run freely allowing for increased safety and ease of use. Whether cruising or racing-the sailor can only exert a limited amount of power, so ease of operation and ability to release a line and let it run free is very important and is optimized with ball bearing blocks.

Non-Ball Bearing Blocks

Non-ball bearing blocks are best fit for applications that hold high static loads and/or only change line direction, such as turning blocks, masts base blocks, deck organizers, halyard blocks, boom vangs, and reefing blocks. In these instances, a simpler, less expensive, non-ball bearing block makes the most sense.

Safe Working Load vs. Breaking Strength: What is the Difference?

Safe working load is the maximum load that a block can handle while still working properly. Breaking strength is the load at which a block will begin to yield and start to deform. When loaded to its breaking strength, the block can be damaged to the point beyond normal use and repair. As a rough rule of thumb, a block's safe working load can be determined by dividing its breaking strength in half.

It is important to know the amount of load your blocks will see in their specific application in order to choose the right block for the application. If you're unsure, consult a marine professional, such as your sailboat manufacturer, sailmaker, or sailboat hardware manufacturer.

Block Care and Maintenance

Ball bearing blocks are designed to reduce friction. When saltwater residue and dirt are introduced to the races of ball bearing blocks, friction increases, and ball bearings can wear. The largest enemy of any plastic ball bearing block is dirt and debris.

Knowing this, caring for your blocks is simple. Be sure to thoroughly wash and rinse your blocks with soap and freshwater as often as possible. If you sail in saltwater, it is best to flush out your blocks after every sail.

For increased performance, try spraying your blocks with a dry lubricant like Team McLube SailKote in the ball bearing races of your blocks. Dry lubricants like this repel water and contaminants that can harm ball bearing systems. In almost all cases, one application will last an entire season.

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Mastering Sailboat Blocks: A Comprehensive Guide

Updated on Dec 20,2023

Table of Contents :

• Introduction
• Understanding Different Bearing Types 2.1 Traditional Bush Bearings 2.2 Ball Bearings 2.3 Needle Roller Bearings
• High Load Situations 3.1 Removing Ball Bearings 3.2 Plain Bearing Bush vs. Needle Roller Bearings 3.3 Factors to Consider: Cost and Friction
• Fast Load Movements 4.1 Removing Plain Bearing Blocks 4.2 Using Ball Bearing Blocks 4.3 Choosing Between Ball Bearings and Needle Roller Bearings
• Dynamic Load Challenges 5.1 Importance of Simplicity 5.2 Thrust Bearings and their Role 5.3 Increasing Block Longevity
• Types of Blocks for Different Applications 6.1 Primary Bearings and Their Functions 6.2 Thrust Bearings in Blocks
• Making the Right Block Choice 7.1 Factors to Consider: Budget and Sail Area 7.2 Needle Roller Bearings as the Preferred Choice 7.3 Alternative: Bush Blocks with Thrust Bearings

Understanding the Different Types of Boat Blocks for Optimal Performance

Boat blocks, also known as pulleys, play a vital role in sailing, facilitating the movement of ropes and lines to control sails and rigging. However, not all boat blocks are created equal. They come in different bearing types to suit specific load conditions and performance requirements. In this article, we will dive into the world of boat blocks, exploring the different bearing types, their limitations, performance characteristics, and the factors to consider when choosing the right block for your boat's needs.

1. Introduction

Boat blocks are essential components in any sailing system, enabling sailors to efficiently manage and control the complex network of ropes and lines. But have You ever wondered why they are called blocks when they are actually pulleys? In this article, we will unravel the intricacies of boat blocks, focusing on the different bearing types, load conditions, and considerations for optimal performance. So let's set sail and explore the fascinating world of boat blocks!

2. Understanding Different Bearing Types

Before we Delve into the nuances of boat blocks, let's first understand the three primary bearing types commonly used: traditional bush bearings, ball bearings, and needle roller bearings.

2.1 Traditional Bush Bearings

Traditional bush bearings, also known as plain bearings, are the simplest Type of bearing used in boat blocks. They consist of a cylindrical sleeve made of materials like nylon or acetal, providing a low-friction surface for the sheave to rotate on.

• Cost-effective option

Suitable for low to moderate load conditions

• Less ideal for high load situations
• Increased friction during fast movements

2.2 Ball Bearings

Ball bearings, with small metal balls placed between the sheave and the block's casing, offer reduced friction and smooth operation. They are particularly effective in low to medium load conditions, providing minimal resistance for efficient sail trimming.

• Low friction for smooth operation

Ideal for low to medium loads

• Not suitable for high static loads
• Small contact points prone to deformation under high loads

2.3 Needle Roller Bearings

Needle roller bearings consist of cylindrical rollers instead of balls, allowing for increased surface contact and load distribution. They excel in high load conditions and provide excellent performance even under dynamic loads and shock situations.

• Superior load-carrying capacity

Effective under high static and dynamic loads

• Higher cost compared to traditional bush bearings
• Increased friction for small adjustments

3. High Load Situations

When it comes to high load situations, it is crucial to choose the right bearing type that can effectively withstand the forces exerted. Let's explore the considerations and limitations associated with different bearing types in high load scenarios.

3.1 Removing Ball Bearings

Ball bearings, despite their low friction properties, are susceptible to deformation under high static loads. Even with high-quality materials like teflon or acetal, ball bearings may deform, compromising their performance. Therefore, in high load situations, it is recommended to remove ball bearings and consider alternative bearing types.

3.2 Plain Bearing Bush vs. Needle Roller Bearings

In high load scenarios, two bearing options prevail: plain bearing bush and needle roller bearings. Choosing between these two options depends on various factors such as cost, desired friction levels, and sailing requirements.

3.3 Factors to Consider: Cost and Friction

Cost plays a significant role in determining the right bearing option for high load applications. Needle roller bearings, while offering superior load-carrying capacity, come at a higher price point compared to traditional bush bearings. However, if minimal friction is essential for precise trim adjustments, needle roller bearings provide a compelling solution.

When seeking the right balance between cost and performance, traditional bush bearings with a plain bearing bush may be a suitable alternative. While they offer slightly higher friction, they serve the purpose well in non-racing or casual sailing scenarios.

4. Fast Load Movements

Fast load movements require blocks that can handle quick adjustments and minimize jerky motions caused by friction. Let's explore the bearing options that excel in fast load situations.

4.1 Removing Plain Bearing Blocks

Plain bearing blocks, although reliable, may not deliver the desired performance in fast load movements. The inherent friction in plain bearings can Create abrupt adjustments, resulting in jumpy sail trim. To achieve smoother and more responsive control, it is advisable to remove plain bearing blocks.

4.2 Using Ball Bearing Blocks

Ball bearing blocks are the go-to choice for fast load movements. Their low-friction properties ensure smooth and precise adjustments, making them highly suitable for activities like jib sheet handling and spinnaker control. When it comes to fast-paced sailing maneuvers, ball bearing blocks are the top choice for sailors.

4.3 Choosing Between Ball Bearings and Needle Roller Bearings

Choosing between ball bearings and needle roller bearings for fast load movements requires an assessment of the boat's size and sail area. Ball bearings are an excellent option for smaller sail areas and lightweight boats as they provide optimal performance without the risk of misshapen sheaves. However, for larger sail areas and HEAVIER displacement boats, needle roller bearings offer enhanced load-spreading capabilities and can handle higher loads more effectively.

5. Dynamic Load Challenges

Dynamic loads pose the greatest challenges in sailing, often leading to block failures and compromised performance. Let's explore the significance of simplicity and the role of thrust bearings in overcoming dynamic load challenges.

5.1 Importance of Simplicity

When it comes to dynamic loads, simplicity is key. The more complex a block's design, the greater the chances of failure. In the early days of sailing, wooden blocks were relied upon for their durability, simplicity, and resilience. These principles still hold true today, emphasizing the need for robust and straightforward solutions.

5.2 Thrust Bearings and Their Role

Dynamic loads result in thrust forces on the sheave or pulley, which can cause twisting and increased friction on the block cheeks. To mitigate these challenges, thrust bearings are incorporated into modern blocks. These bearings, typically in the form of balls or rollers, prevent sheave twisting and evenly distribute the load on the block's central axis, ensuring smoother operation and prolonged lifespan.

5.3 Increasing Block Longevity

Thrust bearings play a crucial role in improving the longevity of boat blocks. By reducing friction and wear on the block's components, blocks with thrust bearings offer enhanced durability and reliability. Needle roller bearings inherently possess these thrust-bearing properties, making them highly effective in dynamic load situations. However, even with traditional bush blocks, adding thrust bearings significantly extends their lifespan and minimizes friction-related issues.

6. Types of Blocks for Different Applications

Understanding the primary bearings and their functions in boat blocks is essential for making informed choices Based on specific applications. Let's explore the diverse range of blocks available and their suitability for various sailing scenarios.

6.1 Primary Bearings and Their Functions

The primary bearing in a block refers to the bearing responsible for carrying the load applied during sailing maneuvers. Depending on the load type and intended use, different blocks excel in different scenarios. It is crucial to match the block's primary bearing with the load requirements to ensure optimal performance.

6.2 Thrust Bearings in Blocks

Thrust bearings, as discussed earlier, are instrumental in reducing friction and extending block longevity. Blocks that incorporate thrust bearings offer superior performance and are highly recommended, especially in dynamic load situations.

7. Making the Right Block Choice

Selecting the most suitable boat block for your sailing needs involves considering various factors. Let's explore the key elements to keep in mind when making the right block choice.

7.1 Factors to Consider: Budget and Sail Area

When choosing a boat block, your budget and sail area are crucial factors to consider. Needle roller bearings, although highly effective, come at a higher price point. Therefore, for budget-conscious sailors or those with smaller sail areas, traditional bush bearings can serve the purpose effectively.

7.2 Needle Roller Bearings as the Preferred Choice

If budget is not a constraint and low friction is a priority, needle roller bearings should be the preferred choice. These bearings excel in high load and dynamic load situations, providing optimal performance and durability.

7.3 Alternative: Bush Blocks with Thrust Bearings

For those seeking a cost-effective yet reliable option, bush blocks with thrust bearings are a compelling alternative. These blocks offer extended longevity and reduced friction, making them suitable for a wide range of sailing applications.

8. Conclusion

Boat blocks are critical components in sailing, allowing sailors to efficiently control sail and rigging systems. By understanding the different bearing types and their performance characteristics, sailors can make informed decisions when choosing the right block for their boats. Whether it is high load situations, fast load movements, or dynamic load challenges, the key lies in selecting the appropriate block that serves the intended purpose, considering factors like cost, load requirements, and desired performance. So make the right block choice and set sail with confidence!

Highlights:

• Boat blocks, also known as pulleys, facilitate the movement of ropes and lines in sailing.
• Understanding different bearing types is crucial in selecting the right block.
• Traditional bush bearings offer cost-effective options for low to moderate load conditions.
• Ball bearings provide low friction but may deform under high static loads.
• Needle roller bearings excel in high load conditions and dynamic load situations.
• Fast load movements require ball bearing blocks for smooth and precise adjustments.
• Thrust bearings play a crucial role in mitigating dynamic load challenges.
• Choosing the right block depends on factors like budget, sail area, and performance requirements.
• Needle roller bearings are the preferred choice for optimal performance.
• Bush blocks with thrust bearings offer a cost-effective alternative.

FAQs: Q: What are boat blocks? A: Boat blocks, also known as pulleys, are devices used in sailing to facilitate the movement of ropes and lines, allowing sailors to control the sails and rigging.

Q: What are the different types of boat block bearings? A: The three primary bearing types used in boat blocks are traditional bush bearings, ball bearings, and needle roller bearings.

Q: When should ball bearings be removed from boat blocks? A: Ball bearings should be removed from boat blocks in high load situations, as they can deform under static loads and compromise performance.

Q: What are the advantages of needle roller bearings in boat blocks? A: Needle roller bearings offer superior load-carrying capacity and perform well under high static and dynamic loads.

Q: What are the challenges of dynamic loads in sailing? A: Dynamic loads pose the greatest challenges in sailing, often leading to block failures. Simplistic designs and thrust bearings are key to overcoming these challenges.

Q: What factors should be considered when choosing boat blocks? A: Factors such as budget, sail area, and desired performance should be considered when choosing boat blocks. Needle roller bearings are preferred for optimal performance, but bush blocks with thrust bearings offer a cost-effective alternative.

The above is a brief introduction to Mastering Sailboat Blocks: A Comprehensive Guide

Let's move on to the first section of Mastering Sailboat Blocks: A Comprehensive Guide

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Sailing Blocks, a Basic Glossary

Related Articles

Navigate the Seas with the Right Sailing Pulleys and Blocks

There’s so much more to a smooth sail than clear blue skies. Since the tide, waves, and winds all play a crucial part in the vessel’s control, you can’t embark on a journey through the open seas without first ensuring you have the right equipment to back you up and make the line movement less of a challenge and more of an enjoyment.

A precise and reliable sailboat rigging system can’t be done without the appropriate top-notch sailing pulleys and blocks that, although small, play a crucial role in the overall experience on the water. From controlling and redirecting lines, distributing load and reducing friction to maintaining your overall safety, these components can do it all. 

They can be found in a range of designs, sizes, colours, and materials to cater to different needs and loads. So, you ought to know what to get to be certain you make the most of these essential components and count on a successful navigation through the waters. But, first, before moving on to the general considerations, let’s get one thing clear:

What Is the Difference Between a Block and a Pulley?

Although they can sometimes be used as interchangeable terms to refer to the same component, there are basic differences that set them apart that you should be aware of, especially when shopping for sailing pulleys and blocks for a smooth sail. 

Despite the connected roles and the use of sheaves and guidelines they share, they still differ in functionality, design, and application. Pulleys are single-unit devices used for controlling lines in specific directions when you need to change the navigation, like when redirecting the halyard, without requiring too much mechanical advantage.

Blocks, on the other hand, are more complex as they’re versatile components crucial for change in the direction where greater force is required, thus providing more mechanical advantage. Simply put, pulleys are your go-to choice for simpler line tasks, whereas blocks are the solution for more complex line tasks. 

Considerations When Choosing the Right Sailing Pulleys and Blocks

Delving into some of the basic factors of these components can assist you with making a more informed and better decision for your sailing. Look into:

The Material Options

When you first get to shop for sailing components, it’s important to understand that their functionality, durability, and performance depend on the material they’re made from. Since you’re buying bits and pieces for marine applications, it’s essential to get something that can withstand the rigours of use and exposure to conditions like salt and water. 

Corrosion resistance and strength are guaranteed with boating pulleys and blocks made from metals like sturdy stainless steel and plastics like reinforced nylon. There are, of course, in-between options like lightweight aluminium which offers the sturdiness of metals and the weight of plastic, so you get the best of both worlds. 

The Configurations

The number of sheaves the designs have indicates the type of block you can have. For example, there are single, double and triple sheaves. Usually, the more sheaves, the more complex the design you can expect. Given this, the single sheave type is fit for basic pulling and lifting tasks.

The designs with multi-sheave configurations (e.g. double, triple) are those you should get if you want more mechanical advantage. Whenever you need to implement a bigger force with tasks like constructing a mainsheet jib, you can count on one of these sailboat blocks to do the job properly.

There’s more to the design than the number of sheaves, so don’t overlook more details like categorisations like swivel or fixed, stand-up, deck organisers, and fiddle. If you’re expecting to deal with variable rope tension, and a change in the axis of the sailing line, then what you would do better with is a swivel block instead of a fixed one, which is better for cases when you don’t need that much mechanical advantage.

Stand-up designs are great for tasks with straightforward line runs, and since they stand fixed, they’re helpful in instances where you want to protect the deck from the block’s hits. For a smooth and organised deck, it’s a no-brainer to get a deck organiser design that successfully leads and diverts multiple lines. Fiddle is a design that consists of multiple such, sheaves (each stacked below the other) and, as such offers more in terms of load-bearing capacity.

The Capacity

Safety is paramount when you’re out in the open seas, so it’s necessary to be certain you’re buying a sailing pulley and block type suitable for the load capacity you intend to use them for. Pay attention to the product’s capacity indicated as safe working load, maximum working load, or working load limit, so you get something that meets or even exceeds the loads you plan on using it for to ensure a smooth operation. This way, you won’t have to see what it’s like to go through a situation of damage and breakage to the pulleys and blocks.

The Bearings

Minimising the line friction as much as you can is advisable, and you can get this by choosing these components from a trustworthy brand known for its quality design, top material choices, and craftsmanship, like a set of Harken sailing blocks and pulleys. Plain bearings might be okay and all, but if you want the smoothest operation possible so you can enjoy your water adventures to the fullest, then investing a little more in advanced bearing systems with parts like ball or roller bearings would certainly be appreciated along the way. Designs with sealed bearings are better if you want extra protection from saltwater.

Okay, we already covered the sheave designs, and now it’s time to discuss the sheave diameter. At first glance, it’s not that big of a deal, but if you consider the load capacity and efficiency of the pulley or block, then you understand that diameter is a factor that plays its role too. 

Larger diameters are better in terms of more efficiency and reduced line wear, however, be sure not to buy too large of a diameter as it could then affect the rigging system’s function, specifically its weight.

The Attachment

Secure and reliable attachment details are just as important as any of the rest of the components, so you need to get something compatible with your vessel’s rigging system. If the common options like shackles and eye straps aren’t your preference and you’d much rather get something for rapid changes and adjustments, then quick-release alternatives are the choice to go for. 

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SELECT THE CORRECT BLOCK

As the blocks are sold in several types and prices ,the regular customer usually doesn’t know what to choose from. This text intends to help you to choose the type of block that suits you best. We would like to suggest some basic useful steps that will help you to decide.

1) You need to determine the required load capacity

It is important to determine the load that the block will carry so that you can choose its right size.

In a new project architects provide you with a list of assumed loads at each point. If you do not have this information, access our website at www.nautos.com.br and click on Club Consulting and then Calculators. You can also contact us directly and we will be pleased to help you. When consulting about products, make sure you have at hand , dimensions , weight of the boat and dimensions of the sails.

2) Block Types Overview

Bearing Blocks: They have a simple construction and were very popular until the 80s. The sheave rotates directly over the shaft. The bearing can either be made of a different material or not. They are generally very resistant and when they are properly cleaned and lubricated they can performance well in certain conditions, for instance, in conditions when the load is near the breaking point or kept static for a long period, such as backstays or vangs. They are inefficient if used with multiple reductions and unsuitable for “double or triple” configurations.

Composite Bearing ,side balls sheaves : They are similar to simple bearing blocks but take the advantage of having a more efficient , sophisticated material, self lubricating, able to bear constant load for longer periods, and sometimes , side support with balls. This side support is very important when the entry and exit of the line are not aligned and press the sheave against the sideplate. The sheave is housed in a solid and highly resistant aluminum body. All manufacturers offer such a product line, Nautos offers this model under the designation “for stays and halyards”

Ball Bearing Blocks : This kind of block has a sheave that rotates over 2 rows of rolling balls

which provide both radial and axial bearing support, being very efficient for certain load ranges. Currently they represent the most common configuration and the best price/result relation.

The most frequent combination is polyacetal balls rolling on a polyacetal shaft. This assembly is efficient up to 60 % of the maximum working load. Excessive pressure causes the rolling balls to slightly flatten generating heat which damages the inner race and increases friction and mechanical losses. Bear in mind that the maximum working load is to be reached only in an emergency and must never be used as a limit for continuous load.

Nautos’s Organic line Also call ULTRALIGHT has rolling balls on an aluminum race, of which tests demonstrate to be more efficient option , avoiding deterioration of the central race.

Also, in this category Nautos offers a range of compact blocks with steel rolling balls on a stainless steel race. This combination allows bigger loads and better performance as the temperature causes little effect on this kind of construction. They are found in our website under the denomination Dinamics.

Roller Bearing Blocks:

This kind of blocks has a sheave that rotates over a row of rollers to provide radial support and 2 lateral races with rolling balls to provide axial support. This combination is very efficient for higher loads, possibly twice as much compared to the previous configuration. Rollers distribute the load over a larger area suffering less deformation. Nautos offers several models in its product range called Line with aluminum sheave and Delrin rollers; an efficient and economical option. For heavy loads, over 1000Kg, we have blocks made of aluminum with sophisticated arrangements providing light weight and high capacity and rollers made of Torlon®, a highly resistant thermoset material. In the Nautos catalog and web page, you’ll find this blocks under the denomination “Off Shore”

2) Let’s determine the purpose of the block on your boat.

Basic applications are : Mainsheets Jib sheets Spinnaker sheets Vangs Halyards Stays Controls Deflections

Mainsheet Features: It features long line lengths, that is to say, several meters of line passing through the blocks carrying varied loads and sometimes at high speed. On boats of up to 32’ it is generally manual, with tackle relations of 6:1 or bigger, up to 10:1.

On racing boats, reductions take place in 2 stages, one low powered e.g. 3:1 and the other generally of about 4 or 6:1, which is called “fine” reduction.

Mainsheet Blocks : You should always opt for ball bearing blocks because the losses are cumulative, around 2 to 5% at every sheave passage. There are at least 3 passages and it is quite easy to suffer losses of 10 to 15%, which is transmitted directly to the hands of the crew member involved in constant adjustments, thus, that the ideal block for this application is radial ball bearing. Side bearing in bushed blocks do not provide real advantages in performance in this use. As for boats of more than 35’ you should go for roller bearing blocks. Nautos offers some models of 57 and 75 mm with load capacity of 300 to 1500 kg. Contact your nearest dealer or Nautos directly to obtain information on the necessary load-carrying capacity of your blocks.

Ball bearing blocks are sold in several configurations of which “triple and double” blocks are very efficient. For reductions of, at most 4:1, you should opt for a “fiddle” shaped block which offers a more balanced arrangement and is less likely to “jam”.

It is also important that the last sheave before the crew member’s hand has a ratchet system providing more efficiency for the operation. In short, as for mainsheets, racing or not, use ball bearing blocks and make sure they are “radial”.

Jib Sheet Features : the Jib sheet, together with the vang, are the most loaded lines in a boat. A 32’ jib can easily exerts 400 kg on a sheet, whereas the mainsheet does not exceed 60 kg. Therefore headsails’ sheets in 90% of the cases go directly to the winch passing through a genoa lead car Headsail sheets apply different and accumulated efforts . It is true to say that the tension at the heel of the sail consumes 20% of the effort on the sheet, leech curve 60% and only 20% control the angle of attack.. Without a boom, the tension that keeps the sail shape is provided uniquely by the sheet and quite often this tension is exerted by an unfavorable angle.

There is the special case of having a boom, or a “self taking” system, where the sheet is divided through several blocks and go to a small winch, automatically positioning itself when tacks . In this kind of system the combined effort by the tack of the sail and curve of the leech is absorbed by a track or boom.

Jib Sheet Blocks : As for the genoas, blocks are usually sheaves attached to a “U” shaped device on a car that moves on a track called “genoa lead car”. The sheave hardly suffers any effort all the way to the last meter when it rises exponentially to a maximum. We could always use bushed bearing sheaves, and every manufacturer offers a great variety of them, but in racing applications, where successive tacks and jibes are common a ball bearing sheave becomes important.

Here there are two other possibilities, movable or fixed genoa lead cars.

The first model is more popular on racing boats, where moving the point in the track back immediately after a tack is the equivalent of a car shifting gears, as you change the curve of the sail trading power by speed. After you gain speed again, move the car up , changing to a speed configuration.

Fixed cars have a lock and are pre-adjusted for general conditions. To move them you will need to reduce the load, or when they are windward.

We must not forget the turning blocks which are usually blocks fixed to the deck. The same rule applies here, opt for roller bearing blocks for racing, bushed blocks may be chosen for cruising, but be careful, if the deflection is more than 45 degrees you’d better use roller/ball bearing blocks because deflections of 90 degrees increase effort in 40%, 140 degrees in 80% and even double the load at 180 degrees, which is sometimes ignored.

Turning blocks deceives a lot of attention since loads are very high.

Spinnaker Sheet Features : Generally it is similar to foresails, yet requires less effort and much more dynamics. The leeward block , will need less effort but the amplitude is bigger, and sometimes you may use the same block as windward sheeting ponint.

Spinnaker Sheet Blocks : For racing no exception, spinnaker sheet turning blocks should always use ball or roller bearing and well dimensioned blocks. Even in cruisers where adjustments are less frequent this blocks must deliver the best. Important safety information : Due to most of crew members positioning themselves within the “V” formed by the clew and winch, the risk of accident is very high if block or support break. Special care must be taken in this case.

Vang Features : Supports high load during long time with a short cable movement. To make it more clear, in monotypes the vang load can be over 300 kg, which means it could be 3 times the boat/crew weight. In a 30’ racing boat you can expect over 1200 kg. Few people pay due attention to the vang or know its real purpose, however, this mechanism controls the shape the mainsail will assume along the leech , help of the curve of the mast when sailing upwind and so on.

Another important detail is the fact that the vang in a long tack is permanently tensioned and in order to bear it, the blocks require special features.

Vang Blocks : As it supports high load, the block for the vang must be as solid as possible, bushed and arranged in cascade. It is worth mentioning the Nautos telescopic vangs, which include solid blocks, cascade arrangement and an integrated topping lift function.

Nautos manufactures 5 vang models that cover from 21´to 50´. We have seen recently racing boats using simple friction rings which are lighter and more resistant than blocks and can perfectly undertake this role of extreme effort and almost zero movement. Nautos offers these products under the denomination xxxxxx

Halyard Features : Halyards have similar features to vangs and flying stays, after hoisting the sail there will be little movement and concentrated effort.

Halyard Block : Internal sheaves, normally bushed, are supplied for the masthead, and the customer will only have to choose the sheaves for the mast heel. These blocks can be bushed and fixed since they are not expected to move much.

Important safety information: Never use plastic blocks for the spinnaker external halyard. There is always the possibility that someone can be hoisted to the top and this kind of block offers high risk of rupture and fatal accident.

Flying Stays Features : Here again there is a sudden increase of load and then a long time of steadiness. Usually boats up to 30’ have a cascade reduction, sometimes going to a small winch

Stay Block Features : Use solid bearing blocks for their resistance and reliability. In racing boats up to 33´ it may be necessary to use roller bearing blocks for their speed and agility.

Note: the resistance of the block must be calculated considering the breaking load equal or 10% more than the stay itself.

Important safety information: Never use plastic or ball bearing blocks at the initial part of this assembly, i.e. the “loaded” part of the cascade.

Nautos offers an exclusive block with integrated ratchet and stopper, and when used with a snap shackle it becomes a practical and efficient set for this application.

Controls Features : Controls are generally used with lower loads, long line lengths and multiple assemblies. Their applications include traveler systems, leads, self-tacking among others.

Control Block Features : You should opt for a compact ball bearing block. Check if it is possible to use it with an integrated cleat to “clean” the deck and avoid additional fixed equipment or loose lines. Double and triple blocks are very popular. Nautos offers some small models that include integral hook.

Deflection Features and Blocks : For deflections with small angle you may opt for fixed eyes since they are simple and light. For angles bigger than 30° you should opt for fixed blocks.

The best option in turning blocks are ball beared blocks in boats up to 25`and roller/ball bearing blocks from bigger boats

Important safety information: in deflections bigger than 45° the load increases radically and there is risk of breaking. For 90° deflections the fixation point receives loads 145% higher and 200% higher when the angle is 180°. Special care must be taken when dealing with this application.

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Practical Sailor Reviews Snatch Blocks from Six Makers

Harken, garhauer, and lewmar hardware stand out in our evaluation of snatch blocks. testers rated the deck gear on the amount of friction it allowed, user-friendliness, quality of construction, corrosion resistance, working loads, price, durability, and other features..

The snatch block was developed to be installed and removed from the mid-region of a working line, and it has been loved and cursed by racers and cruisers alike. Most sailors use the hardware to lead spinnaker sheets and guys, function as a temporary turning block for a preventer, or to provide the right angle for an outboard genoa sheet lead. Many cruisers have found that a snatch block can be used as a friction-free fair lead when kedging off an unseen sandbar. Snatch blocks can also be used in sea anchoring: Cruising icons and well-known authors Lin and Larry Pardey.

( www.landlpardey.com ) describe in their “Storm Tactics Handbook” how they use rugged snatch blocks and a guy to maintain the boats attitude to the wind and waves during nasty weather.

In short, this versatile piece of hardware is a welcome addition to any gear locker, and today, there are more interesting variations of the technology than ever before.

Snatch block preferences can vary greatly according to particular needs. Race-oriented sailors will want something strong, light, and efficient, while robust construction and reliability rank high for cruisers.

Practical Sailor s ideal snatch block will be rugged, serviceable, and made of high-grade materials that wont fail in demanding saltwater-sailing conditions. The snap shackle and opening mechanism should remain fast under extreme flogging, yet be easy and quick to open by hand. The ideal block will rotate and pivot freely so that it provides a fair lead at a wide range of angles. A becket is a nice feature, particularly on a block meant for light-air sails, since a collapsing sail will likely let the block fall noisily to the deck if it is not supported from a lifeline by a light line or shock cord. Every element, bearings included, should be as maintenance-free as possible, and highly resistant to the sun and seawater.

What We Tested

We asked manufacturers to send us a pair of snatch blocks appropriate for the genoa sheets on a cruising boat in the 35- to 40-foot range. We did not specify line diameter or working load&emdash;or even the use for which the block was intended, something that an ordinary consumer should do.

Ultimately, we were sent blocks from six manufacturers&emdash;Antal, Garhauer, Harken, Lewmar, Schaefer, and Wichard. The blocks working loads ranged from 1,980 pounds (Wichard) to 5,000 pounds (Schaefer). Sheave diameter ranged from 2 inches (Antal and Wichard) to slightly over 3 inches (Garhauer). For historical perspective, we included a collection of similarly sized blocks dating back more than two decades. Not every snatch block manufacturer was represented in this test, but the selection offers a good cross-section of the blocks available today.

All but two of the blocks we tested had hinged cheeks that opened outward. The Antal and Garhauer cheeks rotated on swivel pins, so that they always remained parallel to the sheave. Testers found both types worked well, and their final ratings were based more on performance (See “How We Tested,” above), ease of use, and construction quality, than on their opening mechanism.

Antals aluminum snatch block got high marks as a functional design. Its rotating cheek plate offered side loading, and the latch mechanism was simple and straightforward. The block is actually a synthetic rubber-coated aluminum cage block with a composite resin-and-fiber main bushing. Small ball bearings lie between the sheave sides and the cheekplates, but despite innovative design, the block was anything but friction free.

Antal had submitted two different sized blocks for testing, so we initially assumed that the “stickiness” problem might be due to the small diameter (1 inches) of the 9040/SN sheave. Our solution was to retest with the 9060/SN and substitute the Black Magic bullet block we used as a control. Even with this switch to the most friction-free block as a partner for the larger Antal, the Antal 9060/SN scored the poorest in our friction test. These results clearly indicated that the bearing system of the Antal snatch block is nowhere near as efficient as the free-spinning Harken and Garhauer products. Several of the simple axle and bushing blocks also out-performed the product in the friction test.

Bottom Line:

The Antal side-rotating snatch block gets good marks for design execution and operation, but it demonstrated poor performance in friction abatement and has a limited range of movement.

The 60/SN features a cheek plate rotating opening with a pin stop that makes the latching process a simple, two-handed operation. The friction-free spin of the Torlon ball bearing race enables these blocks to score as well in the tension test as the Harken blocks. Garhauers Ronstan trunnion-type snap shackle allowed for a wide universal pivot action. The ball bearing race is slightly exposed to sunlight, and it would make sense to stow these blocks below when theyre not in use. The anodized alloy cheek plates and innovative, pressed-ring sleeve keep the bearings permanently captured, but in dusty, salty areas, a regular routine of fresh water washing will extend the life of the non-replaceable bearings.

When attempting to insert a sheet under load into the open side of the Garhauer block, the configuration of the opening would not allow the line to feed straight into the block. The sheet had to be bent slightly to conform to the blocks architecture.

The Garhauer was the block most affected by the corrosion bath test, actually losing a small amount of aluminum at one of its pointed ends.

Although its not as easy to load as others in the test, the Garhauer was exceptionally friction-free, light, and priced right. Its our Budget Buy.

This one-hand operated, bottom-opening snatch block, was one of the testers favorites. Not only is it user-friendly, and the most efficient in our friction testing, but its rugged construction promises years of heavy-duty use. The investment-cast stainless steel body is a chunky piece of metal that adds some extra weight, but it also stabilizes the load handling and provides a secure point to attach the rugged trunnion-action snap shackle.

Harkens snatch block design is fast and easy to latch as well as release. It provided the most convenient means of capturing or releasing a sheet under load. The geometry of its snap shackle is such that when working with a loaded line, the snap shackle can be easily locked onto a padeye.

The thick rubber padding on the cheeks minimizes gelcoat chipping caused by light-air sheet slackening, and the roller bearing- supported sheave rotates on a central axle that smoothly latches to the articulating side cheek. Our only concern was the magnetic permeability of its sheave pin. All other blocks had completely non-magnetic sheave axles.

The Harken block was a top performer in testing, is quality constructed, and easy to use and maintain. It gets the nod for PS Best Choice.

Elegantly simple, this hefty traditional snatch block would be a wise choice for those looking for ultimate reliability and do-it-yourself repairability. All it takes are two 9/16-inch wrenches or sockets to loosen the sheave axle pin and pull apart the easy-to-assemble block. When the latching operation starts to get sloppy, a new set of dowel-like rubber grommets can be installed to return it to just-like-new status. Those cruising far afield and those who leave their snatch blocks rigged and exposed to the elements wont go wrong with Lewmars rugged design. The bearing system in these blocks is a simple Delrin sheave running on a metal bushing, and the frame, latch, and universal pivoting snap shackle are all stainless steel.

The Lewmar survived the corrosion test fairly well, but showed some oxidation around its latch. It was also only one of two test blocks that is easily disassembled.

Well-designed, rugged, and easy to use, the Lewmar block is PS s Recommended block for off-the-beaten-path cruisers.

Another tried and proven product is Schaefers traditional snatch block design, and we looked at its range of three differently size blocks. Our test pair were the large 11-99 and medium 07-99 models. They are identical in all aspects, except size and safe working load, which were 5,000 pounds for the large and 3,750 pounds for the medium.

These blocks cannot be disassembled, but their simple, rugged design promises years of reliability. The large sheaves and rugged cage structure operated smoothly, with fairly low-friction operation, and potential cosmetic deck damage caused by the blocks heft was prevented by the addition of shock absorbing urethane side plates.

Schaefers snap shackle was not the trunnion type, limiting articulation to about 15 degrees off the vertical. In certain conditions&emdash;snapping the block to an open toe rail, for example&emdash;this limited range of movement could cause the snatch block snap shackle to hang up, and possibly cause some damage to the block. Such problems are less likely to occur if the block is supported with a shock cord.

Schaefers peened over, cold formed, stainless steel main axle pin showed some signs of oxidation after the corrosion test.

The Schaefer block is held back by a limited range of movement and high friction readings.

The Wichard blocks latch mechanism opens the entire top portion of the block and is pinned closed by a piston-like extension of the main axle. The block handled efficiently during testing, but it was on the small side in comparison to other competitors. When it came to friction testing, it was clear that sheave size, or roller/ball bearings make a difference. The blocks small size and bushing-type bearings, not surprisingly, yielded higher friction readings in our test.

Like most Wichard hardware, this snatch block is well-engineered and nicely finished. Poor performance in the friction test put this one behind the leaders in our test.

Along with obvious signs of corrosion and physical deterioration, the working antiques we tested scored poorly on friction tests, and the worst examples of corrosion were directly linked to broken axle shafts and cracked snap-shackle pivots. The oldest Gibb tufnol blocks and a silicon-bronze roller-bearing Nicro/Fico product looked pretty bad, but still worked reasonably well. The silicon-bronze chrome plating was all but gone, and a green patina covered the metal, acting as a natural protective coating to hold any further corrosion at bay. In a pinch, disassembling these blocks, cleaning, and lubricating them with a simple lithium grease or higher-tech product can return them to satisfactory usability&emdash;a trait that holds value to long-distance voyagers.

Conclusions

If youre a performance-oriented sailor, ball- or roller-bearing supported sheaves really count. Harken and Garhauer blocks stole the show when it came to friction-free operation, which will make light-air spinnaker trimmers smile. Cruisers with smaller winches should also check these out.

A trunnion-type snap shackle or universal joint improves attachment&emdash;insuring universal movement. This wider range of bending prevents a snap shackle from being damaged due to variations in sheet lead angles or padeye design. The improved articulation makes odd lead angles tolerable, and allows the snatch block to self align with the loads imposed.

Harken and Garhauer provided trunnion-type snap shackles, while Lewmar and Wichard used a universal toggle-type attachment to achieve a similar range of movement.

Antals snap shackle and Schaefers modest 15-degree range of movement were less versatile. Antal does offer a lashing option that may appeal to some racers, but one of the advantages of a snatch block is its ability to be moved from one attachment point to another as quickly as possible, and a snap shackle is better suited for this.

Bigger blocks mean larger diameter sheaves, and the benefits include better load distribution on the bearing surface and less point load on the line itself. Our friction test showed a clear trend, revealing that once ball and roller bearings were removed from the equation, bigger blocks run smoother than smaller blocks.

The two-step attachment process to setting up a snatch block ranged from butter-smooth to downright difficult. Once again, Harken topped the charts with its unique clam shell-like, push-button opening process. Of the side-opening types, testers preferred Antals approach. However, Garhauers use of a Ronstan trunnion-type snap shackle was a big hit, and its large-diameter sheave and roller bearings helped yield excellent friction ratings.

Only the Antal and Lewmar blocks were easily DIY disassemblable, as compared to nearly all of those made a few decades ago. This is likely a market response to todays sailors who replace rather than repair broken gear, a game plan thats hard to implement at sea or in remote landfalls.

Harkens easy-to-operate, friction-free, front-loading snatch block gets the Best Choice kudos. Lewmars bulletproof traditional entry was rugged, easy to refit, well-constructed, and our Recommended choice for the long-range cruiser. Our Budget Buy, Garhauers proven side loader, is a cost effective competitor.

• How We Tested
• Practical Sailor Snatch Blocks Value Guide
• Snatch Block Details
• Snatch Block Metallurgy Holds Clues To Longevity

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It would be nice to see more photos, and part numbers.

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Sailboat Blocks

Sailing Blocks or pulleys for a sailboat can have single or multiple sheaves such as single blocks, double blocks, triple blocks and quadruple blocks. Sailboat Blocks when fixed to the end of a line are used to gain mechanical advantage. The larger use of sheaves in a configuration, the higher mechanical advantage gained. Blocks are used from small dinghies, to keelboats, sport boats, big boats and Maxis. The three most common alternatives for modern blocks are: plain bearings, ball bearings and roller bearings. MAURIPRO Sailing has the largest selection of blocks including fiddle blocks, ratchet blocks, snatch blocks, wire blocks, mainsheet systems, footblocks, cheek blocks, fairlead blocks, stand-up blocks, halyard lead blocks and more. Harken blocks, Lewmar blocks, Ronstan blocks, Selden blocks, Schaefer blocks, Antal blocks, Barton blocks, Allen blocks, Spinlock blocks and more sailboat blocks brands.

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Sailboat Blocks

If you are looking for sailboat blocks or pulleys, Vela Sailing Supply can help! Our online store features several blocks and sailboat pulleys for sale to help you find the right fit for your boat.

From dinghies and small keelboats to Maxis canopy boats, our sailing blocks offer compatibility with them all. We carry all the major brands, and we make it easy to browse our selection to find exactly what you want. At Vela Sailing Supply, our buying process is simple and straightforward, and we offer free shipping on qualifying orders to enhance our customers’ experience. 

Browse our sailboat blocks now to find the ideal pulley system for your boat. 

95360 2 - Genoa Furling System - Good for 38 To 47ft Boat Length

95356 - 1.5 - Genoa Furler - Good for 33 To 39ft Boat Length

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91334 Telescoping Vang #2 Internal Relation 4:1

92827 - Fiddle Swivel with Becket - 75 mm

92826 - Fiddle Swivel 75mm Sheave Diameter

91342 Telescoping Vang / Internal Relation 2:1

92655-134 R 12:1 Mainsheet System Set of Blocks- 75mm & 28mm Sheave with Pre-stretched Mainsheet Rope

92851 - Single Swivel with Becket- 100 mm

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92747-086 9:1/ 5:1 Mainsheet Blocks Set -Double Speed Mainsheet- Ratchet with Double Aluminum Cam Cleat

92633-34 R 6:1 Mainsheet System Set of Blocks- 75mm Sheave with Pre-stretched Mainsheet Rope

92747-240 9:1/ 5:1 Mainsheet Blocks-Double Speed - Ratchet with Double Aluminum Cam Cleat

92655-134 12:1 Mainsheet System Set of Blocks- 75mm & 28mm Sheave

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• Sailing Supplies

Sailboat Blocks

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Sailors know that the hardware pulleys used to direct guide lines are called 'sailboat blocks’. These pulleys are useful machines with parts like strops, cheeks, straps, sheves, and bushings that make lighter work of hoisting and lowering sails. Problem is, the friction created when in use wears down these components quickly. The good news for sailors is that Wholesale Marine carries an extensive line of replacement sailboat blocks from leading marine manufacturers like Barton Marine and Ronstan . And you thought we only catered to gas-powered craft!

Whether you are rapidly easing a sheet or gybing asymmetric spinnakers, Ronstan’s 55-Rachet Mount Orbit Block offers the strength and ease of use either task requires. It provides up to 20:1 holding power along with high-performance cleating. When you’re looking for a reverse shackle block, Barton Marine’s 05420 Size 5 Fiddle offers great flexibility and is available in cam, cleat, fiddle, and fiddle and cam versions as well.

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Remember, sailor or boating enthusiast, whatever your recreational boating life requires, Wholesale Marine carries it. For same day, flat rate shipping, easy returns, and dependable customer service and advice. You can order your replacement sailboat blocks or any other recreational boat items with confidence from Wholesale Marine. We’re here for you Monday through Friday from 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM EST at (877) 388-2628. Ask about our Captain’s Club Rewards Program  for additional discounts the next time you shop at Wholesale Marine!

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17 Sailboat Types Explained: How To Recognize Them

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

Every time I'm around a large number of sailboats, I look around in awe (especially with the bigger ones). I recognize some, but with most of them, I'll have to ask the owner. When they answer, I try to hide my ignorance. The words don't make any sense!

So here's a complete list with pictures of the most common sailboat types today. For each of them, I'll explain exactly where the name comes from, and how you can recognize it easily.

So here's my list of popular sailboat types, explained:

Bermuda sloop, sailing hydrofoil, dutch barge, chinese junk, square-rigged tall ship, in conclusion, how to recognize any sailboat.

Before we get started, I wanted to quickly explain what you should look for when you try to identify a sailboat.

The type of sailboat is always determined by one of these four things:

• The type of hull
• The type of keel
• The number of masts
• And the type of sails and rig

The hull is the boat's body. There are basically three hull types: monohull, catamaran, and trimaran. Simply said: do I see one hull, two hulls (catamaran) or three hulls (trimaran)? Most sailboats are monohulls.

Next, there is the keel type. The keel is the underwater part of the hull. Mostly, you won't be able to see that, because it's underwater. So we'll leave that for now.

The sail plan

The last factor is the number of masts and the sail plan. The sail plan, simply put, is the number of sails, the type of sails, and how the sails are mounted to the masts (also called rigging ).

Sailboat are mostly named after the sail plan, but occasionally, a sail type is thrown in there as well.

So now we know what to pay attention to, let's go and check out some sailboats!

Dinghies are the smallest and most simple sailboats around.

They are your typical training sailboats. Small boats with an open hull, with just one mast and one sail. Perfect for learning the ways of the wind.

On average, they are between 6 and 20 ft long. Mostly sailed single-handed (solo). There's no special rigging, just the mainsail. The mainsail is commonly a Bermuda (triangular) mainsail. Dinghies have a simple rudder stick and no special equipment or rigging.

Dinghies are great for learning how to sail. The smaller the boat, the better you feel the impact of your trim and actions.

How to recognize a sailing dinghy:

• short (8ft)
• one Bermuda sail
• open hull design
• rudder stick

Common places to spot them: lakes, near docks

If you'd ask a kid to draw a sailboat, she'll most probably draw this one. The Bermuda Sloop is the most popular and most common sailboat type today. You'll definitely recognize this one.

How to recognize a Bermuda Sloop:

• triangular mainsail (called a Bermuda sail)
• a foresail (also called the jib)
• fore-and-aft rigged
• medium-sized (12 - 50 ft)

Fore-and-aft rigged just means "from front to back". This type of rigging helps to sail upwind.

Any sailboat with one mast and two sails could still be a sloop. Even if the sails are another shape or rigged in another way. For example, here's a gaff-rigged sloop (more on the gaff rig later):

If you want to learn all about sail rigs, check out my full Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types here. It has good infographics and explains it in more detail

The Bermuda sloop has a lot of advantages over other sailboat types (which is why it's so popular):

• the Bermuda rig is very maneuverable and pretty fast in almost all conditions
• it's really versatile
• you can sail it by yourself without any problems
• it's a simple setup

Common places to spot a sloop: everywhere. Smaller sloops are more common for inland waters, rivers, and lakes. Medium-sized and large sloops are very popular cruising boats.

Cutters have one mast but three or more sails. Most cutters are Bermuda rigged, which means they look a lot like sloops.

How to recognize a cutter:

• looks like a sloop
• two or more headsails instead of one
• commonly one mast
• sometimes an extra mast with mainsail

Cutters have more sail area, which makes them faster, but also harder to sail single-handed. There's also more strain on the mast and rigging.

Common places to spot a cutter: everywhere. Cutters are very popular for cruising.

They mostly have a Bermuda rig, which means triangular sails. But there are also gaff cutters and naval cutters, and some have two masts.

Here's an example of a two-masted naval cutter with an extra gaff mainsail and top gaff:

The Hydrofoil is a pretty new sailboat design. It's a racing sailboat with thin wing foils under the hull. These lift up the hull, out of the water, reducing the displacement to nearly zero. The foils create downforce and keep it from lifting off entirely.

This makes the hydrofoil extremely fast and also impressive.

The hydrofoil refers to the keel type. There are both monohull and multihull hydrofoils.

How to recognize a hydrofoil:

• it flies above the waterline and has small fins

Common places to spot a hydrofoil: at racing events

Famous catamaran: La Vagabonde from Sailing La Vagabonde

A catamaran is a type of cruising and racing multihull sailboat with two hulls. The hulls are always the same size.

Most catamarans have a standard Bermuda rig. The catamaran refers to the hull, so it can have any number of masts, sails, sail types and rig type.

How to recognize a catamaran:

• any boat with two hulls is called a catamaran

Common places to spot catamarans: coastal waters, The Caribbean, shallow reefs

The advantages of a catamaran: Catamarans heel less than monohulls and are more buoyant. Because of the double hull, they don't need as deep a keel to be stable. They have a smaller displacement, making them faster. They also have a very shallow draft. That's why catamarans are so popular in the Caribbean, where there's lots of shallow water.

Catamarans are nearly impossible to capsize:

"Compared with a monohull, a cruising catamaran sailboat has a high initial resistance to heeling and capsize—a fifty-footer requires four times the force to initiate a capsize than an equivalent monohull." Source: Wikipedia

How to recognize a trimaran:

• any boat with three hulls is called a trimaran

Trimarans have three hulls, so it's a multi-hull design. It's mostly a regular monohull with two smaller hulls or floaters on the sides. Some trimarans can be trailered by winching in the auxiliary hulls, like this:

This makes them very suitable for long-term cruising, but also for regular docking. This is great for crowded areas and small berths, like in the Mediterranean. It sure is more cost-effective than the catamaran (but you also don't have the extra storage and living space!).

Common places to spot Trimarans: mostly popular for long-term cruising, you'll find the trimaran in coastal areas.

Gaffer refers to gaff-rigged, which is the way the sails are rigged. A gaff rig is a rectangular sail with a top pole, or 'spar', which attaches it to the mast. This pole is called the 'gaff'. To hoist the mainsail, you hoist this top spar with a separate halyard. Most gaffers carry additional gaff topsails as well.

Gaff rigs are a bit less versatile than sloops. Because of the gaff, they can have a larger sail area. So they will perform better with downwind points of sail. Upwind, however, they handle less well.

How to recognize a gaffer:

• sail is rectangular
• mainsail has a top pole (or spar)

Since a gaffer refers to the rig type, and not the mast configuration or keel type, all sailboats with this kind of rigging can be called 'gaffers'.

Common places to spot a gaffer: Gaffers are popular inland sailboats. It's a more traditional rig, being used recreationally.

Schooners used to be extremely popular before sloops took over. Schooners are easy to sail but slower than sloops. They handle better than sloops in all comfortable (cruising) points of sail, except for upwind.

How to recognize a schooner:

• mostly two masts
• smaller mast in front
• taller mast in the back
• fore-and-aft rigged sails
• gaff-rigged mainsails (spar on top of the sail)

Common places to spot a schooner: coastal marinas, bays

How to recognize a ketch:

• medium-sized (30 ft and up)
• smaller mast in back
• taller mast in front
• both masts have a mainsail

The ketch refers to the sail plan (mast configuration and type of rig). Ketches actually handle really well. The back mast (mizzenmast) powers the hull, giving the skipper more control. Because of the extra mainsail, the ketch has shorter masts. This means less stress on masts and rigging, and less heel.

Common places to spot a ketch: larger marinas, coastal regions

How to recognize a yawl:

• main mast in front
• much smaller mast in the back
• back mast doesn't carry a mainsail

The aft mast is called a mizzenmast. Most ketches are gaff-rigged, so they have a spar at the top of the sail. They sometimes carry gaff topsails. They are harder to sail than sloops.

The yawl refers to the sail plan (mast configuration and type of rig).

Common places to spot a yawl: they are not as popular as sloops, and most yawls are vintage sailboat models. You'll find most being used as daysailers on lakes and in bays.

Dutch Barges are very traditional cargo ships for inland waters. My hometown is literally littered with a very well-known type of barge, the Skutsje. This is a Frisian design with leeboards.

Skutsjes don't have a keel but use leeboards for stability instead, which are the 'swords' or boards on the side of the hull.

How to recognize a Dutch Barge:

• most barges have one or two masts
• large, wooden masts
• leeboards (wooden wings on the side of the hull)
• mostly gaff-rigged sails (pole on top of the sail, attached to mast)
• a ducktail transom

The clipper is one of the latest sailboat designs before steam-powered vessels took over. The cutter has a large cargo area for transporting cargo. But they also needed to be fast to compete with steam vessels. It's a large, yet surprisingly fast sailboat model, and is known for its good handling.

This made them good for trade, especially transporting valuable goods like tea or spices.

How to recognize a Clipper:

• mostly three masts
• square-rigged sails
• narrow but long, steel hull

Common places to spot a clipper: inland waters, used as houseboats, but coastal waters as well. There are a lot of clippers on the Frisian Lakes and Waddenzee in The Netherlands (where I live).

This particular junk is Satu, from the Chesapeake Bay Area.

The Chinese Junk is an ancient type of sailboat. Junks were used to sail to Indonesia and India from the start of the Middle Ages onward (500 AD). The word junk supposedly comes from the Chinese word 'jung', meaning 'floating house'.

How to recognize a Chinese junk:

• medium-sized (30 - 50 ft)
• large, flat sails with full-length battens
• stern (back of the hull) opens up in a high deck
• mostly two masts (sometimes one)
• with two mainsails, sails are traditionally maroon
• lug-rigged sails

The junk has a large sail area. The full-length battens make sure the sails stay flat. It's one of the flattest sails around, which makes it good for downwind courses. This also comes at a cost: the junk doesn't sail as well upwind.

The cat rig is a sail plan with most commonly just one mast and one sail, the mainsail.

Most sailing dinghies are cats, but there are also larger boats with this type of sail plan. The picture above is a great example.

How to recognize a cat rig:

• smaller boats
• mostly one mast
• one sail per mast
• no standing rigging

Cat-rigged refers to the rigging, not the mast configuration or sail type. So you can have cats with a Bermuda sail (called a Bermuda Cat) or gaff-rigged sail (called a Gaff Cat), and so on. There are also Cat Ketches and Cat Schooners, for example. These have two masts.

The important thing to know is: cats have one sail per mast and no standing rigging .

Most typical place to spot Cats: lakes and inland waters

Famous brig: HMS Beagle (Charles Darwin's ship)

A brig was a very popular type of small warship of the U.S. navy during the 19th century. They were used in the American Revolution and other wars with the United Kingdom. They carry 10-18 guns and are relatively fast and maneuverable. They required less crew than a square-rigged ship.

How to recognize a brig:

• square-rigged foremast
• mainmast square-rigged or square-rigged and gaff-rigged

How to recognize a tall ship:

• three or four masts
• square sails with a pole across the top
• multiple square sails on each mast
• a lot of lines and rigging

Square-rigged ships, or tall ships, are what we think of when we think of pirate ships. Now, most pirate ships weren't actually tall ships, but they come from around the same period. They used to be built from wood, but more modern tall ships are nearly always steel.

Tall ships have three or four masts and square sails which are square-rigged. That means they are attached to the masts with yards.

We have the tall ship races every four years, where dozens of tall ships meet and race just offshore.

Most common place to spot Tall Ships: Museums, special events, open ocean

This is a bonus type since it is not very common anymore. As far as I know, there's only one left.

The Trabaccolo is a small cargo ship used in the Adriatic Sea. It has lug sails. A lug rig is a rectangular sail, but on a long pole or yard that runs fore-and-aft. It was a popular Venetian sailboat used for trade.

The name comes from the Italian word trabacca , which means tent, referring to the sails.

How to recognize a Trabaccolo:

• wide and short hull
• sails look like a tent

Most common place to spot Trabaccolo's: the Marine Museum of Cesenatico has a fully restored Trabaccolo.

So, there you have it. Now you know what to look for, and how to recognize the most common sailboat types easily. Next time you encounter a magnificent sailboat, you'll know what it's called - or where to find out quickly.

I loved this article. I had no idea there were so many kinds of sailboats.

i have a large sailing boat about 28ft. that im having a difficult time identifying. it was my fathers & unfortunately hes passed away now. any helpful information would be appreciated.

Jorge Eusali Castro Archbold

I find a saleboat boat but i can find the módem…os registré out off bru’x, and the saleboat name is TADCOZ, can you tell me who to go about this matter in getting info.thank con voz your time…

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared)

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Types of Cleats On A Sailboat

• July 18, 2023

Table of Contents

Cleats are essential fixtures on a sailboat used to secure lines (ropes) and control sail trim. They come in various designs and are strategically placed throughout the boat to provide convenient and secure attachment points. Here, I will describe the different types of cleats found on a sailboat in detail:

Sailboat Cleat Types

The horn cleat is the most common and recognizable type of cleat. It features one or more protruding horns or arms that provide multiple options for securing lines. The line is wrapped around the horns in a figure-eight pattern to create a secure hold. Horn cleats come in different sizes and are used for various applications throughout the boat, including halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Recommended Horn Cleats:

Ronstan Horn Cleat Nylon 76MM (3″)

Schaefer Mid-Rail Chock and Cleat Mounts on 1-1/4 x 3/16-Inch T-Track fits Up to 5/8-Inch/16mm Line

Cam cleats are designed with a spring-loaded cam mechanism that clamps down on the line when it is under tension. The cam grips the line securely and holds it in place until released. Cam cleats are popular for applications where quick and easy adjustment is required, such as controlling jib or spinnaker sheets. They are commonly found on sailboats with high-performance or racing-oriented setups.

Recommended Cam Cleats:

Jam cleats, also known as jamming cleats or rope clutches, are designed to hold a line firmly under load. They feature a set of ridges or teeth that grip the line when it is tensioned. Jam cleats provide a secure hold and are often used for halyards, control lines, and other high-load applications. To release the line, it needs to be pulled at a specific angle to disengage the teeth.

Recommended Jam Cleats:

Clam cleats consist of two interlocking jaws that close around the line. As the line is pulled, the jaws grip it tightly, creating a secure hold. Clam cleats are often used for smaller lines, such as control lines on dinghies or small sailboats. They provide quick and easy adjustment and are commonly found on boats where weight and simplicity are crucial.

Recommended Clam Cleats:

Osculati Clamcleat

V cleats, as the name suggests, have a V-shaped groove that runs along the top surface of the cleat. The line is inserted into the groove, and the V-shaped design holds it securely in place. V cleats are primarily used for smaller-diameter lines or control lines. They are commonly found on dinghies and small sailboats where space and weight are at a premium.

Recommended V Cleats:

Nautos 91061 – V Jam Cleat – Sailboat Hardware

Jammers are similar to jam cleats but offer a more sophisticated and mechanical gripping mechanism. They consist of one or more jaws that grip the line under tension using a cam or lever system. Jammers provide a strong and secure hold and are commonly used for halyards, control lines, and sheets on larger sailboats or racing-oriented setups.

Recommended Jammers:

Spinlock Mobile Jammer for securing Loaded Lines 10-14mm

Rope Clutch

Rope clutches are heavy-duty cleats often used on larger sailboats. They consist of multiple jaws or disks that can be engaged or disengaged to secure or release a line. Rope clutches are designed to handle high loads and are commonly used for controlling halyards, sheets, and other lines that require precise adjustment and secure holding power.

Recommended Rope Clutches:

Deck cleats, also known as mooring cleats, are larger cleats that are permanently mounted to the deck or cockpit of a sailboat. They provide a secure attachment point for dock lines, fenders, and other lines used for docking or securing the boat. Deck cleats are usually made of durable materials such as stainless steel or aluminum and are designed to handle significant loads.

Recommended Deck Cleats:

Fairlead Cleat

Fairlead cleats combine the functionality of a cleat with that of a fairlead, which helps guide lines to the appropriate cleating position. They feature an integrated fairlead or a combination of a fairlead and a cleat. Fairlead cleats are commonly used for jib or genoa sheet control lines, where it is important to guide the line for optimal sail trim and secure it quickly.

Recommended Fairlead Cleats:

HARKEN Micro Carbo-Cam Cleat Kit w/Wire Fairlead

Jamming Block with Cleat

This type of cleat is a combination of a jammer or a cam cleat with a pulley or block. It allows the line to be redirected and creates a mechanical advantage when trimming sails. Jamming blocks with cleats are commonly used for applications that require increased purchase or control, such as mainsheet systems or complex control line setups.

Recommended Jamming Block Cleats:

It’s important to note that the specific cleat types and their placement on a sailboat can vary depending on the boat’s design, rigging setup, and intended use. Sailboat owners and manufacturers may also develop unique variations or combinations of cleats to suit their specific needs. Proper installation, sizing, and maintenance of cleats are essential for safe and efficient sail handling.

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Types of Sailboats: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Learning the different types of sailboats can help you identify vessels and choose the right boat.

In this article, we'll cover the most common kinds of sailboats, their origins, and what they're used for. We'll also go over the strengths and weaknesses of each design, along with when they're most useful.

The most common kind of sailboat is the sloop, as it's simple to operate and versatile. Other common sailboat types include the schooner, cutter, cat, ketch, schooner, catamaran, and trimaran. Other sailboat variations include pocket cruisers, motorsailers, displacement, and shoal-draft vessels.

The information found in this article is sourced from boat reference guides, including A Field Guide to Sailboats of North America by Richard M. Sherwood and trusted sources in the sailing community.

Table of contents

Distinguishing Types of Sailboats

In this article, we'll distinguish sailboats by traits such as their hull type, rig, and general configuration. Some sailboats share multiple characteristics with other boats but fall into a completely different category. For example, a sailboat with a Bermuda rig, a large engine, and a pilothouse could technically be called a sloop, but it's more likely a motorsailer.

When discerning sailboat type, the first most obvious place to look is the hull. If it has only one hull, you can immediately eliminate the trimaran and the catamaran. If it has two or more hulls, it's certainly not a typical monohull vessel.

The next trait to consider is the rig. You can tell a lot about a sailboat based on its rig, including what it's designed to be used for. For example, a long and slender sailboat with a tall triangular rig is likely designed for speed or racing, whereas a wide vessel with a complex gaff rig is probably built for offshore cruising.

Other factors that determine boat type include hull shape, overall length, cabin size, sail plan, and displacement. Hull material also plays a role, but every major type of sailboat has been built in both wood and fiberglass at some point.

Sailboat vs. Motorsailer

Most sailboats have motors, but most motorized sailboats are not motorsailers. A motorsailer is a specific kind of sailboat designed to run efficiently under sail and power, and sometimes both.

Most sailboats have an auxiliary engine, though these power plants are designed primarily for maneuvering. These vessels cannot achieve reasonable speed or fuel-efficiency. Motorsailers can operate like a powerboat.

Motorsailers provide great flexibility on short runs. They're great family boats, and they're popular in coastal communities with heavy boat traffic. However, these features come at a cost. Motorsailers aren't the fastest or most efficient powerboats, and they're also not the most agile sailboats. That said, they make an excellent general-purpose sailing craft.

Monohull vs. Multi-hull: Which is Better?

Multihull sailboats are increasingly popular, thanks to advances and lightweight materials, and sailboat design. But are they better than traditional sailboats? Monohulls are easier to maintain and less expensive, and they offer better interior layouts. Multihulls are more stable and comfortable, and they're significantly easier to control. Multihull sailboats also have a speed advantage.

Monohull Sailboats

A monohull sailboat is a traditionally-shaped vessel with a single hull. The vast majority of consumer sailboats are monohulls, as they're inexpensive to produce and easy to handle. Monohull sailboats are proven and easy to maintain, though they lack the initial stability and motion comfort of multi-hull vessels.

Monohull sailboats have a much greater rig variety than multi-hull sailboats. The vast majority of multihull sailboats have a single mast, whereas multi-masted vessels such as yawls and schooners are always monohulls. Some multi-hull sailboats have side-by-side masts, but these are the exception.

Catamaran Sailboats

The second most common sailboat configuration is the catamaran. A catamaran is a multihull sailboat that has two symmetrical hulls placed side-by-side and connected with a deck. This basic design has been used for hundreds of years, and it experienced a big resurgence in the fiberglass boat era.

Catamarans are fast, efficient, and comfortable. They don't heel very much, as this design has excellent initial stability. The primary drawback of the catamaran is below decks. The cabin of a catamaran is split between both hulls, which often leaves less space for the galley, head, and living areas.

Trimaran Sailboats

Trimarans are multi-hull sailboats similar to catamarans. Trimarans have three hulls arranged side-by-side. The profile of a trimaran is often indistinguishable from a catamaran.

Trimarans are increasingly popular, as they're faster than catamarans and monohulls and considerably easier to control. Trimarans suffer from the same spatial limitations as catamarans. The addition of an extra hull adds additional space, which is one reason why these multi-hull vessels are some of the best-selling sailboats on the market today.

Sailboat Rig Types

Rigging is another way to distinguish sailboat types. The rig of a sailboat refers to it's mast and sail configuration. Here are the most common types of sailboat rigs and what they're used for.

Sloops are the most common type of sailboat on the water today. A sloop is a simple single-mast rig that usually incorporates a tall triangular mainsail and headsail. The sloop rig is easy to control, fun to sail, and versatile. Sloops are common on racing sailboats as they can sail quite close to the wind. These maneuverable sailboats also have excellent windward performance.

The sloop rig is popular because it works well in almost any situation. That said, other more complex rigs offer finer control and superior performance for some hull types. Additionally, sloops spread their entire sail area over just to canvases, which is less flexible than multi-masted rigs. The sloop is ideal for general-purpose sailing, and it's proven itself inland and offshore.

Sloop Features:

• Most popular sailboat rig
• Single mast
• One mainsail and headsail
• Typically Bermuda-rigged
• Easy to handle
• Great windward performance
• Less precise control
• Easier to capsize
• Requires a tall mast

Suitable Uses:

• Offshore cruising
• Coastal cruising

Cat (Catboat)

The cat (or catboat) is a single-masted sailboat with a large, single mainsail. Catboats have a thick forward mast, no headsail, and an exceptionally long boom. These vessels are typically gaff-rigged, as this four-edged rig offers greater sail area with a shorter mast. Catboats were popular workboats in New England around the turn of the century, and they have a large following today.

Catboats are typically short and wide, which provides excellent stability in rough coastal conditions. They're hardy and seaworthy vessels, but they're slow and not ideal for offshore use. Catboats are simple and easy to control, as they only have a single gaff sail. Catboats are easy to spot thanks to their forward-mounted mast and enormous mainsail.

Catboat Features:

• Far forward-mounted single mast
• Large four-sided gaff sail
• Short and wide with a large cockpit
• Usually between 20 and 30 feet in length
• Excellent workboats
• Tough and useful design
• Great for fishing
• Large cockpit and cabin
• Not ideal for offshore sailing
• Single sail offers less precise control
• Slow compared to other rigs
• Inland cruising

At first glance, a cutter is difficult to distinguish from a sloop. Both vessels have a single mast located in roughly the same position, but the sail plan is dramatically different. The cutter uses two headsails and often incorporates a large spar that extends from the bow (called a bowsprit).

The additional headsail is called a staysail. A sloop only carries one headsail, which is typically a jib. Cutter headsails have a lower center of gravity which provides superior performance in rough weather. It's more difficult to capsize a cutter, and they offer more precise control than a sloop. Cutters have more complex rigging, which is a disadvantage for some people.

Cutter Features:

• Two headsails
• Long bowsprit
• Similar to sloop
• Gaff or Bermuda-rigged
• Fast and efficient
• Offers precise control
• Superior rough-weather performance
• More complex than the sloop rig
• Harder to handle than simpler rigs

Perhaps the most majestic type of sailboat rig, the schooner is a multi-masted vessel with plenty of history and rugged seaworthiness. The schooner is typically gaff-rigged with short masts and multiple sails. Schooners are fast and powerful vessels with a complex rig. These sailboats have excellent offshore handling characteristics.

Schooners have a minimum of two masts, but some have three or more. The aftermost large sail is the mainsail, and the nearly identical forward sail is called the foresail. Schooners can have one or more headsail, which includes a cutter-style staysail. Some schooners have an additional smaller sale aft of the mainsail called the mizzen.

Schooner Features:

• At least two masts
• Usually gaff-rigged
• One or more headsails
• Excellent offshore handling
• Precise control
• Numerous sail options (headsails, topsails, mizzen)
• Fast and powerful
• Complex and labor-intensive rig
• Difficult to adjust rig single-handed
• Offshore fishing

Picture a ketch as a sloop or a cutter with an extra mast behind the mainsail. These vessels are seaworthy, powerful, excellent for offshore cruising. A ketch is similar to a yawl, except its larger mizzen doesn't hang off the stern. The ketch is either gaff or Bermuda-rigged.

Ketch-rigged sailboats have smaller sails, and thus, shorter masts. This makes them more durable and controllable in rough weather. The mizzen can help the boat steer itself, which is advantageous on offshore voyages. A ketch is likely slower than a sloop or a cutter, which means you aren't likely to find one winning a race.

Ketch Features:

• Headsail (or headsails), mainsail, and mizzen
• Mizzen doesn't extend past the rudder post
• Good offshore handling
• Controllable and mild
• Shorter and stronger masts
• Easy self-steering
• Slower than sloops and cutters
• Less common on the used market

A dinghy is a general term for a small sailboat of fewer than 28 feet overall. Dinghys are often dual-power boats, which means they usually have oars or a small outboard in addition to a sail. These small boats are open-top and only suitable for cruising in protected waters. Many larger sailboats have a deployable dinghy on board to get to shore when at anchor.

Dinghy Features:

• One or two people maximum capacity
• Easy to sail
• Works with oars, sails, or an outboard
• Great auxiliary boat
• Small and exposed
• Not suitable for offshore use
• Going from anchor to shore
• Protected recreational sailing (lakes, rivers, and harbors)

Best Sailboat Type for Stability

Stability is a factor that varies widely between sailboat types. There are different types of stability, and some sailors prefer one over another. For initial stability, the trimaran wins with little contest. This is because these vessels have a very high beam-to-length ratio, which makes them much less prone to rolling. Next up is the catamaran, which enjoys the same benefit from a wide beam but lacks the additional support of a center hull section.

It's clear that in most conditions, multihull vessels have the greatest stability. But what about in rough weather? And what about capsizing? Multihull sailboats are impossible to right after a knockdown. This is where full-keel monohull sailboats excel.

Traditional vessels with deep displacement keels are the safest and most stable in rough weather. The shape, depth, and weight of their keels keep them from knocking over and rolling excessively. In many cases, these sailboats will suffer a dismasting long before a knockdown. The primary disadvantage of deep-keeled sailboats is their tendency to heel excessively. This characteristic isn't hazardous, though it can make novice sailors nervous and reduce cabin comfort while underway.

Best Sailboat Type for Offshore Cruising

The best sailboat type for offshore cruising is the schooner. These graceful aid robust vessels have proven themselves over centuries as durable and capable vessels. They typically use deep displacement keels, which makes them stable in rough weather and easy to keep on course.

That said, the full answer isn't quite so simple. Modern multihull designs are an attractive option, and they have also proven to be strong and safe designs. Multihull sailboats are an increasingly popular option for offshore sailors, and they offer comfort that was previously unknown in the sailing community.

Many sailors cross oceans in basic Bermuda-rigged monohulls and take full advantage of a fin-keel design speed. At the end of the day, the best offshore cruising sailboat is whatever you are comfortable handling and living aboard. There are physical limits to all sailboat designs, though almost any vessel can make it across an ocean if piloted by a competent skipper and crew.

Best Sailboat Type for Racing The modern lightweight Bermuda-rigged sailboat is the king of the regatta. When designed with the right kind of hull, these vessels are some of the fastest sailboats ever developed. Many boats constructed between the 1970s and today incorporate these design features due to their favorable coastal and inland handling characteristics. Even small sailboats, such as the Cal 20 and the Catalina 22, benefit from this design. These boats are renowned for their speed and handling characteristics.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Six workers presumed dead after crippled cargo ship knocks down Baltimore bridge

• LATEST DEVELOPMENTS:
• Six workers presumed dead
• Search and rescue operations suspended

BIGGER DISASTER AVERTED

'SHOCKING SIGHT'

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Andy covers politics and policy in Washington. His work has been cited in Supreme Court briefs, political attack ads and at least one Saturday Night Live skit.

Gabriella Borter is a reporter on the U.S. National Affairs team, covering cultural and political issues as well as breaking news. She has won two Front Page Awards from the Newswomen’s Club of New York - in 2020 for her beat reporting on healthcare workers during the COVID-19 pandemic, and in 2019 for her spot story on the firing of the police officer who killed Eric Garner. The latter was also a Deadline Club Awards finalist. She holds a B.A. in English from Yale University and joined Reuters in 2017.

Iran says Israel bombed its embassy in Syria, killing a top commander

Iran's consulate in the Syrian capital Damascus was flattened on Monday in what Syrian and Iranian media described as an Israeli air strike, a startling apparent escalation of conflict in the Middle East that would pit Israel against Iran and its allies.

Why the Baltimore bridge stood little chance against a fully loaded cargo ship

As questions surround the collapse of a Baltimore bridge after a containership crashed into it Tuesday, engineering experts say that while bridges have some built-in defenses against collisions, this one was most likely too extreme to withstand.

“Bridges are and should be designed to withstand ship impacts. That’s typical of the design process,” said Sanjay R. Arwade, a professor of civil engineering at the University of Massachusetts Amherst. 

“But for all structures and all engineered systems, there is a possibility that an event will occur that is beyond what the structure was designed for. And this may be one of those situations,” he added. 

The Francis Scott Key Bridge, a roughly 1.5-mile-long steel arch truss bridge, collapsed into the Patapsco River early Tuesday after a containership struck it. Several vehicles crashed into the water, and one of the country’s busiest ports shut down.

Follow live updates on the Baltimore bridge collapse

An unknown number of workers with Brawner Builders Inc.   were repairing concrete ducts when the ship, called the Dali, hit a support pillar. Six employees are presumed dead .

Key Bridge was ‘fairly unprotected'

Arwade said design codes for modern bridges stipulate "what sort of loads it has to be able to resist.”

“Whenever a design code is written, decisions have to be made about what the most extreme conditions are,” he said. 

Maryland Gov. Wes Moore said the bridge was "fully up to code."

But the Key Bridge was built in 1977, and bridge design and technology have improved since then.

"Since the 1970s, we have a lot of advancements," Sameh Badie, a professor of engineering at George Washington University,  told NBC Washington. But he said, "I saw today a couple of videos before the collapse, and it seems to me, structurally wise, it was very safe."

Roberto Leon, a structural engineer at Virginia Tech, said that while engineers try to account for “extreme events” during the design and construction process, “when this bridge was built, there were no ships of this size.”

“This type of load was not really considered,” he said. “So the bridge was, I would say, fairly unprotected.”

Retrofitting older bridges could cost millions

Officials have not specified what type of protective infrastructure, if any, the Key Bridge had. 

Leon said that on a newer bridge, large concrete structures called dolphins are often used to protect the base. Dolphins can form a kind of frame and are designed to take the impact of a vessel and “slow the ship down and redirect it away from the bridge,” he said.

“In some cases, they’re called sacrificial elements, because they might be damaged beyond repair if an event of this type occurs, but of course, they save the bridge,” he added.

John Pistorino, a structural engineer in Florida, said dolphins are in use to protect the Sunshine Skyway Bridge in Tampa, Florida, which was reopened in 1987 , seven years after it was hit by a freighter. Thirty-five people died after the bridge collapsed into Tampa Bay.

Pistorino, who was involved in the construction of the rebuilt Sunshine Skyway Bridge, described dolphins as walls or guardrails.

“They can be concrete or steel … and they go all the way down to the bottom of the river,” he said. “They’re supposed to protect the abutments.” 

Jacksonville, Florida, Mayor Donna Deegan cited the dolphin infrastructure that's in place to protect the Dames Point Bridge — the only bridge in the city that cargo ships sail under — in a statement Tuesday. She noted that the bridge is also equipped with specialty sensors that provide real-time information about the distance between the water surface and the bottom of the bridge structure over the main channel.

Older and more vulnerable bridges can be retrofitted to add defensive infrastructure like dolphins, Leon said, but building them can cost hundreds of millions of dollars.

“I’m hoping that because of the infrastructure bill that passed, we are going to be able to do projects like this,” he said, referring to the $555 billion infrastructure bill that President Joe Biden signed in 2021. “Putting those into the budget and justifying them is very difficult when you have all kinds of other bridges that are in really sad shape. So it’s just a question of prioritization.”

However, Kevin Heaslip, director of the Center for Transportation Research and a professor of civil and environmental engineering at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, said the cost of designing bridges to withstand fully loaded cargo ships like the Dali would “be so high that we wouldn’t be able to have any bridges.”

Government oversight of bridges could increase

Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg said he has been monitoring the situation in Baltimore. A team of investigators from the National Transportation Safety Board has been sent to the crash site. 

Leon said he hopes what happened in Baltimore will cause port operations to change “quite a bit.” Pistorino said the event may lead legislators to take a closer look at vulnerable bridges in the country and the types of maritime traffic in ports.

“Just like the building collapse in South Florida created a lot of legislation that required a more intimate type of building scrutiny, I think that will happen on the bridges,” he said.

Minyvonne Burke is a senior breaking news reporter for NBC News.

Watch CBS News

What we know about the condition of Baltimore's Francis Scott Key Bridge and how this sort of collapse could happen

By Caitlin O'Kane

Updated on: March 26, 2024 / 7:58 PM EDT / CBS News

Baltimore's Francis Scott Key Bridge collapsed early Tuesday morning after one of its columns was hit by a large container ship. Video of the bridge shows it buckle and crash into the river below after the Dali, a massive 948-foot cargo ship, strikes it, sending vehicles and people into the river below. Six people were missing, and after a daylong search and rescue effort, the U.S. Coast Guard said Tuesday evening it was shifting to a recovery mission.

Here's what we know about the condition of the bridge and how this sort of collapse could happen.

During its latest federal inspection, the Key Bridge scored a six out of nine, which is considered "fair," a condition it had been labeled since 2008, CBS Baltimore reported . 

The bridge passed inspection in May 2022, but there was concern with one of its columns. The reinforced concrete column was downgraded from a health index, or condition rating, of 77.8 to 65.9. It is not known whether the column of concern was the same one that was struck on Tuesday morning.

Ben Schafer, professor of civil and systems engineering at Johns Hopkins University, told CBS News that most bridges in the U.S. fall in this "fair" range, which is "not what we would want or suspect" as a society. But, he said, the massive ship — not the condition of the Key Bridge — is likely to blame for its collapse. 

"Like others, I've watched the video a bunch of times and have gone frame by frame and worked up a few different hypothesis in my mind, but I see little evidence for anything other than: the boat strike took a bridge with two supports and took away one of them and then it fell in the water," Schafer told CBS News. "I mean, doesn't seem to be super more complicated than that."

Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg expressed a similar view at a briefing Tuesday afternoon. "This is a unique circumstance. I do not know of a bridge that has been constructed to withstand a direct impact from a vessel of this size. Anytime anything happens to any bridge, we as a country take that and learn from it," Buttigieg said.

Many bridges, whether a suspension bridge or an arched bridge, require two supports under the portion of bridge that goes over water, Schafer said. "This is the minimum number to cross over," he said. 

"The container ship was as wide as it was as tall," Schafer said, adding that it was of similar scale to the bridge. "So the mass that's associated with that container ship creates an amount of energy that a small concrete pier isn't going to sustain. That's an accident that we can't allow to happen and expect the bridges to stay up." 

Schafer said in the late 1800s, the Quebec Bridge, which had a similar design to Baltimore's Key Bridge, collapsed, which taught engineers many lessons about truss bridges. But by the 1970s when the Key Bridge was built, the design used was modern and sufficient. 

Schafer said there is a lesson to be learned here, but it's likely not that changes to a bridge's design would help prevent an accident like this. He said the way shipping traffic is managed, or the size of container ships — which have likely increased since the 1970s when the bride was built — should be considered when trying to understand the risk of these types of accidents. 

Robert Sumwalt, former chairman of the National Transportation Safety Board, told CBS News that the video of the accident holds some clues about what could have happened. The lights of the ship flashes off and on, which would indicated an electrical power failure, he said. Authorities confirmed the ship did lose power before the crash. 

Black smoke is also seen coming out of the ship, which Sumwalt said likely means "ship's crew is trying to increase the RPMs across the propeller to increase the steering capability of it."

All of the crew members on the Dali were accounted for and there were no reports of any injuries among the crew. Sumwalt also said the ship's audio recording device likely captured conversations happening on the ship as well as other data like the angle of the rudder. "There will be a lot of information to help piece this back together," he said. 

The four-lane Key Bridge is 1.6 miles long and was used by some 31,000 people a day, according CBS News Baltimore. Sumwalt said only two other tunnels cross the Patapsco River, so without the bridge, access will be limited. 

A construction crew was filling potholes on the bridge at the time of the accident. Two workers were rescued from the water  but six remained unaccounted for Tuesday night, officials said. 

• Bridge Collapse

Caitlin O'Kane is a New York City journalist who works on the CBS News social media team as a senior manager of content and production. She writes about a variety of topics and produces "The Uplift," CBS News' streaming show that focuses on good news.

More from CBS News

Pete Buttigieg says "we don't fully know" conditions for Baltimore bridge repair

Transcript: Baltimore Mayor Brandon Scott on "Face the Nation," March 31, 2024

Transcript: Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg on "Face the Nation," March 31, 2024

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• International

March 28, 2024 - Baltimore Key Bridge collapse

By Antoinette Radford, Maureen Chowdhury , Tori B. Powell , Elise Hammond and Aditi Sangal , CNN

Our live coverage has ended. Follow the latest news on the Baltimore bridge collapse or read through the updates below. 

Here's what we learned from the authorities this evening

From CNN staff

The federal government has given Maryland officials the $60 million requested to cover the first steps of responding to  the collapse of the Francis Scott Key Bridge , according to a Federal Highway Administration news release.

Federal Highway Administration chief Shailen Bhatt said the emergency funding would go toward removing debris, rerouting traffic and ultimately rebuilding the bridge.

Here's what else the authorities said in a news briefing this evening:

• Four directives to recovery: Gov. Wes Moore outlined four main priorities as Maryland looks to recover after the bridge collapse. The directives include: Continued focus on efforts to recover the construction workers presumed dead "to bring a sense of closure to these families," open the channel and restart traffic to the port, taking care of those affected, rebuilding the Key Bridge.
• Murky water conditions: Moore said the " water is so dark , and debris is so dense, that in most instances our divers cannot see more than a foot or two in front of them."
• Major resources mobilized: The Army Corps of Engineers is moving the largest crane in the Eastern Seaboard to Baltimore to help clear the channel, and it is expect to arrive later on Thursday evening, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore said. Clearing the channel has been an important goal so trade and traffic through the port can resume. The Army Corps of Engineers plan to cover the full cost of clearing the channel where Baltimore's Key Bridge collapsed, Sen. Chris Van Hollen said Thursday.
• One larger vehicle detected underwater: There's at least one vehicle of a large size that has been detected underwater, and it is encapsulated by the superstructure of the bridge, concrete and other things, according to Col. Roland L. Butler Jr., the superintendent of Maryland State Police.
• Monitoring possible leaks and pollution: Over 2,400 feet of boom have been deployed to contain any leaks of pollution in the aftermath of the collapse of the Key Bridge, Moore said. Separately, 14 containers on the ship were impacted , and they contained items like soap and perfume, Coast Guard Rear Adm. Shannon Gilreath said, adding that he did not have information on whether any of those materials went overboard. Air monitors are in place to track any potential threats and they have not picked up any threats so far, Gilreath said.

There's at least 1 larger vehicle underwater, official says

From CNN's Aditi Sangal

There's at least one vehicle of a large size that has been detected underwater, according to Col. Roland L. Butler Jr., the superintendent of Maryland State Police.

"There's at least one vehicle, larger in size, that is completely encapsulated by the superstructure of the bridge, concrete," among other things, Butler said Thursday evening. "It's going to take some time to get to that, and it's going to take some time to do that carefully" before divers can go to recover that vehicle, he added.

2,400 feet of boom was used to contain possible toxic materials, Maryland governor says

There have been over 2,400 feet of boom deployed to contain any leaks of pollution in the aftermath of the collapse of the Key Bridge, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore said Thursday.

He said he personally did not see any sheen on the water when he went to assess the situation on site.

Remember: 56 containers with hazardous materials were found on the vessel.

There are 14 containers on the ship were impacted, and they contained items like soap and perfume, Coast Guard Rear Adm. Shannon Gilreath said at the briefing, adding that he did not have information on whether any of those materials went overboard.

Air monitors are in place to track any potential threats and they have not picked up any threats so far, Gilreath added.

Baltimore mayor says he remains hopeful bodies of other workers will be recovered

From CNN's Elise Hammond

Baltimore's mayor said he is still "hopeful" the bodies of the other workers presumed dead will be recovered.

Authorities announced on Wednesday they were pausing search and recovery efforts  for the four other workers presumed dead because debris made it unsafe for divers to continue. Once this next phase of salvage operations is complete and the debris is cleared, divers will search for more remains.

Baltimore Mayor Brandon Scott said that during the salvage operation, he hopes "we are able to recover those who remain missing and bring them home to their families.

The mayor said he directed his administration to work with the governor’s office “on any and every effort that must be taken.”

Army Corps of Engineers will bear the full cost of clearing the channel, Sen. Chris Van Hollen says

The Army Corps of Engineers will cover the full cost of clearing the channel where Baltimore's Key Bridge collapsed, Maryland Sen. Chris Van Hollen said Thursday.

"We all recognize that getting the Port of Baltimore running again at full speed is a priority given all the jobs that are associated with it, all the small businesses, all the other businesses," Sen. Van Hollen said at Thursday's news briefing. "And as the governor pointed out, this is not just a Maryland issue, it's a national and global question."

The largest crane in the Eastern Seaboard is expected to arrive in Baltimore later today, governor says

The Army Corps of Engineers is moving the largest crane in the Eastern Seaboard to Baltimore to help clear the channel, and it is expected to arrive Thursday evening, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore said.

"Under the leadership of Col. (Estee S.) Pinchasin, the Army Corps is moving the largest crane in the Eastern Seaboard to Baltimore to help us," Moore said at a news conference. "It is estimated that will arrive later this evening."

"It's a 1,000-ton crane coming around midnight," Sen. Chris Van Hollen said at the same news conference. "And another 400-ton crane coming Saturday for the operations to clear the channel."

The post was updated with information about the crane from Sen. Van Hollen.

Officials are assessing pieces of the bridge before they pull them out of the water, Coast Guard says

Officials working to remove the collapsed Key Bridge from the channel are conducting a full assessment of all pieces of debris before they can lift them out of the water, Coast Guard Rear Adm. Shannon Gilreath.

This assessment is critical in figuring out how to cut the bridge into the right size pieces so cranes can lift them out, he said.

“We are doing those assessments right now with underwater surveys, with engineering teams back in unified command,” Gilreath said, adding that the assessment is in coordination with several other partners, including the US Army Corp of Engineers.

“That is our number one priority is to reopen the Port of Baltimore as fast as we can, and do it safely,” he added.

Murky conditions are hindering divers' vision during underwater operations, Maryland governor says 

Water conditions are hindering divers' visibility as they conduct recovery operations, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore said Thursday.

"That water is so dark, and debris is so dense, that in most instances our divers cannot see more than a foot or two in front of them," Moore said at a news briefing. "So much of the operation is simply feel."

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Baltimore bridge collapse wasn't first major accident for giant container ship Dali

Propulsion failed on the cargo ship that struck the Francis Key Bridge in Baltimore early Tuesday as it was leaving port, causing it to collapse into the frigid Patapsco River. Its crew warned Maryland officials of a possible collision because they had lost control.

“The vessel notified MD Department of Transportation (MDOT) that they had lost control of the vessel” and a collision with the bridge “was possible,” according to an unclassified Department of Homeland Security report. “The vessel struck the bridge causing a complete collapse.”

An official speaking on condition of anonymity confirmed to USA TODAY that the DHS’ Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency is working with federal, state, and local officials “to understand the potential impacts of this morning’s collapse of the Francis Scott Key Bridge.”

Clay Diamond, executive director, American Pilots’ Association, told USA TODAY power issues are not unusual on cargo ships, which are so large they cannot easily course correct.

“It’s likely that virtually every pilot in the country has experienced a power loss of some kind (but) it generally is momentary,” Diamond said. “This was a complete blackout of all the power on the ship, so that’s unusual. Of course this happened at the worst possible location.” 

The ship in Tuesday's crash, Dali, was involved in at least one prior accident when it collided with a shipping pier in Belgium.

That 2016 incident occurred as the Dali was leaving port in Antwerp and struck a loading pier made of stone, causing damage to the ship’s stern, according to VesselFinder.com, a site that tracks ships across the world. An investigation determined a mistake made by the ship’s master and pilot was to blame.

No one was injured in that crash, although the ship required repair and a full inspection before being returned to service. The pier – or berth – was also seriously damaged and had to be closed.

VesselFinder reports that the Dali was chartered by Maersk, the same company chartering it during the Baltimore harbor incident.

The 9-year-old container ship had passed previous inspections during its time at sea, but during one such inspection in June at the Port of San Antonio in Chile, officials discovered a deficiency with its "propulsion and auxiliary machinery (gauges, thermometers, etc)," according to the Tokyo MOU, an intergovernmental maritime authority in the Asia-Pacific region.

The report provided no other information about the deficiency except to note that it was not serious enough to remove the ship from service.

Follow here for live updates: Baltimore's Key Bridge collapses after ship strike; construction crew missing: Live Updates

Why did Dali crash into the Baltimore bridge?

Officials said Tuesday they’re investigating the collision, including whether systems on board lost electricity early Tuesday morning, which could be related to mechanical failure, according to a U.S. official who was not authorized to speak publicly.

Accidents at sea, known as marine casualties, are not uncommon, the source told USA TODAY. However, “allisions,” in which a moving object strikes a stationary one with catastrophic results, are far less common. The investigation of the power loss aboard the Dali, a Singapore-flagged vessel, will be a high priority.

In a video posted to social media, lights on the Dali shut off, then turned back on, then shut off again before the ship struck a support pier on the bridge.

Numerous cargo and cruise ships have lost power over the years.

The International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea requires all international vessels to have two independent sources of electricity, both of which should be able to maintain the ship's seaworthiness on their own, according to a safety study about power failures on ships , citing the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea.

The Dali's emergency generator was likely responsible for the lights coming back on after the initial blackout, Diamond said.

“There was still some steerage left when they initially lost power,” he said. “We’ve been told the ship never recovered propulsion. The emergency generator is a diesel itself – so if you light off the generator, that’s also going to put off a puff of exhaust.”

Under maritime law, all foreign flagged vessels must be piloted into state ports by a state licensed pilot so the Dali's pilot is licensed by Association of Maryland Pilots .

Diamond described the incident based on information from the Maryland agency that licensed the pilot aboard the ship. His organization represents that group and all other state piloting agencies in the US.

“The pilot was directing navigation of the ship as it happened,” he said. “He asked the captain to get the engines back online. They weren’t able to do that, so the pilot took all the action he could. He tried to steer, to keep the ship in the channel. He also dropped the ship’s anchor to slow the ship and guide the direction.

“Neither one was enough. The ship never did regain its engine power.”

How big is the Dali ship?

The Dali is a 984-foot container vessel built in 2015 by Hyundai Heavy Industries in South Korea. With a cruising speed of about 22 knots – roughly 25 mph. It has traveled the world carrying goods from port to port.

The ship, constructed of high-strength steel, has one engine and one propeller, according to MarineTraffic.com.

The Dali arrived in Baltimore on Sunday from the Port of Norfolk in Virginia. Before that, it had been in New York and came through the Panama Canal.

It remains at the scene of the collapse as authorities investigate.

Who owns and operates the Dali?

It is owned by the Singapore-based Grace Ocean Pte Ltd but managed by Synergy Marine Group, also based in Singapore. It was carrying Maersk customers’ cargo, according to a statement from the shipping company.

“We are deeply concerned by this incident and are closely monitoring the situation,” Maersk said in the statement. 

Synergy, which describes itself as a leading ship manager with more than 600 vessels under its guidance, issued a statement on its website acknowledging the incident and reporting no injuries among its crew and no pollution in the water. There were two pilots on board and 22 crew members in all, according to Synergy, all of them from India.

USA TODAY reached out to Synergy on Tuesday, but the company did not immediately return a call seeking comment.

Contributing: Josh Susong