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Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

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A Week On The Wrist The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex Bracelet

For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659)

If you weren’t paying close attention you could easily miss the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold. And I mean that in the best way. It’s a handsome timepiece, with a quiet presence that (despite its newness) feels reassuringly familiar in some hard-to-define way.

Despite being 2mm bigger than its Everose Gold brother (and a 42mm Oyster case wears quite big), it’s the opposite of in your face. In fact, thanks to the monochrome colour scheme of the dial, bezel and case, and the matt black Oysterflex strap, it may be the most discreet model in Rolex’s entire line-up.

I’m not suggesting that it can’t be a love-at-first-sight piece – but the more closely you look, the greater the rewards. The absence of colour draws your eye to the details, and emphasises the play of shiny and matt surfaces: the fine band of polished notches around the outer edge of the bezel contrasts with the matt Cerachrom insert, which in turn plays against the shine of the black lacquer dial. The polished surfaces of the raised numerals on the bezel (they are an integral part of the bezel, moulded with the ceramic, rather than applied) cast barely-there shadows on the surrounding matt surface. And when the light plays over the highly polished case-side, with its seamless cutaway from lugs to crown guards – well, it’s a beautiful thing. The curve is perfect and the white gold has a visual softness that you just don’t get with steel or platinum.

The matt black rubber Oysterflex strap is the Goldilocks element, tying everything together in just-right harmony (whereas the hardness and shine of a metal bracelet could throw things off-balance visually).

Having been introduced in 2015, the Oysterflex strap is no longer news but it’s worth revisiting because it’s such a great piece of design – possibly the most comfortable watch strap known to mankind. That’s thanks to the tiny, flexible ‘blades’ hidden on the underside between a pair of longitudinal cushions. The effect is a feeling of extraordinary lightness on the wrist (balanced in this case by the pleasant heft of the white gold case), absolute stability and … no sweat. Literally, since the air can circulate between skin and strap. The folding clasp has an integrated extension system that enables you to adjust it in 2.5mm increments, up to a total of about 15mm – instantly and without tools.

On the dial, simplicity of the markers and their assertive size make it highly legible (again, with no colour to distract the eye – not even the line of red text that appears on other Yacht-Masters). Thanks to the Chromalight lume (which glows blue in the dark) none of this clarity is lost at night.

Rolex scores more points by bringing its new-generation Calibre 3235 (launched last year) into the Yacht-Master range for the first time – a technical step up from the Everose Gold model. The key attributes of cal.3235: the patented Chronergy escapement, designed to maximise energy efficiency and made of magnetically neutral nickel-phosphorus, and the Parachrom hairspring, resistant to shocks and also paramagnetic. The benefit: accuracy of +2/-2 seconds per day (tested after casing), more than twice the standard chronometer specification.

As we expect from Rolex, this is an exceedingly well built and tremendously practical watch, ideally suited to everyday sporting wear. Although it’s water-resistant to 100 metres, it’s designed for above-water not underwater life. The bezel is bi-directional; it’s Yacht-Master, not Dive-Master. It’s not a tool watch. So while I briefly thought – as I’m sure many of you did – “Why not steel?” I no longer ask that (rhetorical) question. White gold is entirely appropriate and, in this handsomely sporty monochrome package, it’s the stealth Rolex par excellence.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 (ref. 226659) price

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 , white gold on Oysterflex, $36,950

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How to Adjust the Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

First introduced in 2015 on the Everose gold Yacht-Master 40, the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet represents a radical departure from the previous styles of bracelets that can be found on Rolex watches . In the most simple of terms, the Oysterflex bracelet is Rolex’s take on a rubber watch strap. However, to call it a rubber strap would be a bit misleading since it has just as much in common with a metal bracelet, and just like everything else that Rolex produces, the Oysterflex has been over-engineered to an unimaginable extent, taking into consideration every possible detail.

When it comes to adjusting Rolex’s metal bracelets, sizing them is a pretty straightforward task. In addition to any adjustment offered by the clasp itself, links can be added or removed from the bracelet in order to achieve the desired size. However, when it comes to the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet, each side is a single seamless piece of material connected by a solid gold clasp. So, how do you adjust the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet?

Click here for our Ultimate Guide on Rolex Bracelets.

What Is the Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet?

Before we get into the actual process of how to adjust the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet, it might be worth briefly discussing the Oysterflex itself and how it differs from other Rolex bracelets. While the Oysterflex may look like a rubber strap, Rolex actually classifies it as a bracelet since each side features a flexible metal core made from a highly-flexible titanium and nickel-alloy, which is then coated in black elastomer.

Just like one of Rolex’s metal bracelets, the Oysterflex surrounds your entire wrist with mechanically-connected metal components. However, while Rolex’s metal bracelets feature multiple individual links connecting each side of the watch to its clasp, those entire sections are made up of a single flexible metal link on the Oysterflex bracelet. It may look like a standard rubber strap, but the Oysterflex benefits from the strength of a metal bracelet combined with the comfort, flexibility, and lightweight construction of rubber. Consequently, it is considered to be a premium option within Rolex’s catalog and it is exclusively fitted to a handful of models that are all crafted from solid 18k gold.

With that in mind, since each side of the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is a single piece and you cannot simply add or remove individual links in order to adjust it to a desired circumference, sizing the Oysterflex bracelet follows a slightly different overall process. Additionally, achieving the perfect fit may even require a quick trip to your local authorized Rolex retailer, as there is always a possibility that you will not be able to adjust the bracelet enough without first swapping out one of the sides for one that is a different length.

There are two main ways of adjusting the size of your Oysterflex bracelet. Small adjustments can be achieved by using its included clasp extension system, while larger alterations are made by swapping out one or both of its sides for equivalent versions of a different length, which are available for purchase directly from Rolex.

Micro-Adjustment with the Clasp

The first thing you should do when adjusting your Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is to check and see if you are able to achieve the desired fit by adjusting your clasp. All of the various Rolex watches that are fitted with Oysterflex bracelets also feature clasps that include some type of extension system. Some of the earliest Oysterflex bracelets received clasps with the Fliplock extension, which enables you to instantly expand or contract the bracelet by approximately 5mm with the fold-out extension link hidden inside the clasp.

However, in the years since the Oysterflex bracelet made its debut, Rolex has expanded its clasp adjustment capabilities. All of the current-production Rolex watches that are fitted with Oysterflex bracelets now also include clasps with Rolex’s patented Glidelock extension system. This allows for instantaneous tool-free adjustment in small increments, which can often be enough to either expand or contract an Oysterflex bracelet to fit your wrist. However, if your Oysterflex still remains too big or too small even after adjusting your clasp, you may need to swap out one or both of the sides for an equivalent version of a different length.

Different Oysterflex Bracelet Sizes

Each side of the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is produced in different lengths, and all of them have corresponding letter codes attached to them. Different combinations of sizes can be used to achieve different desired circumferences, while simultaneously ensuring that the clasp of your Oysterflex bracelet stays centered on the bottom of your wrist.

The following table outlines how this sizing system works for the various Rolex Daytona watches that are equipped with Oysterflex bracelets.

It’s important to keep in mind that this recommended sizing system will differ between watches, so the Rolex Sky-Dweller and each of the different Rolex Yacht-Master models will all have their own recommended sizing structures due to the different sizes and dimensions of their cases. Additionally, while these are approximate guidelines for Oysterflex sizes, the shape of someone’s wrist and their individual preferences can also have an impact on the right combination, so if you do ultimately need to swap out one of the sides on your Oysterflex bracelet, it is always recommended to visit your local authorized retailer to confirm exactly which combination of side sizes works best for your wrist.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Stay the course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 in Oystersteel and platinum with an Oyster bracelet.

Bidirectional rotatable bezel, timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

Exceptional legibility

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the Yacht-Master 40 offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

A legendary combination

Many Rolex watches are available with the now-legendary combination of yellow, white or Everose gold and steel known as Rolesor, but Rolesium is a creation specific to the Yacht-Master.

While the case and bracelet are in rugged Oystersteel, the bezel of the Rolesium versions is made of platinum, imparting a silvery whiteness and vibrant luminosity for an unmistakable sense of luxury.

The Oyster bracelet

Alchemy of form and function.

The Oyster bracelet is a perfect alchemy of form and function, aesthetics and technology, designed to be both robust and comfortable. It is equipped with an Oysterlock folding clasp, which prevents accidental opening and the Easylink comfort extension link, also exclusive to Rolex.

This ingenious system allows the wearer to increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstance.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   126622

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Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel and platinum

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Rolesium - combination of Oystersteel and platinum

Platinum bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated with raised numerals

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Oyster, three-piece solid links

Oystersteel

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 40

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