yacht master on jubilee

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Making the case: The Rolex Yacht-Master is the most versatile collection of all their ‘Professional’ models

For most, the day after Christmas is Boxing Day. But, for some professional sailors, December 26 marks the beginning of the  Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. Organised by the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia, the race, which was first held in 1945, and has been sponsored by Rolex since 2002, consists of yachts ranging from 30 feet (9.14 metres) to 100 feet (30.48 metres), with crews both professional and Corinthian, racing through 628-nautical miles (1,163 kilometres) of open water. It is an absolutely gruelling race in which merely completing it is a massive accomplishment. But, I am no sailor myself. So when I heard about the race, my mind immediately wandered to the Rolex Yacht-Master.

As I sat pondering the collection, I began to think about just how underrated the Yacht-Master is compared to other “Professional” Rolex references like the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT Master II. So today I want to make the case that the Yacht-Master is not only massively underrated, but also the most versatile collection of all the “Professional” models. Normally in the Making The Case  column, we present arguments for and against. But, this time around I will make my case by highlighting five Yacht-Master watches (four currently in production, and one discontinued model that is readily available on the secondary market) that, at least in my mind, show why the argument for my case is quite strong.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42

Previously, the Yacht-Master 42 was only available in stealthy white gold. At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, Rolex finally introduced not only a yellow gold Yacht-Master 42, but also the first yellow gold Yacht-Master ever outfitted on an Oysterflex rubber bracelet. Lately many manufactures have been ignoring yellow gold, sticking with rose and white gold only. This is due to the fact that, in some eyes, yellow gold is considered dated. While some say dated, I say classic. It is hard to beat the purity of yellow gold. Ultimately buyers now have the best of both worlds, you can get the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold if you want to fly under the radar or in yellow gold if being a casual “G” is your vibe. Fingers crossed though that a stainless-steel Yacht-Master 42, or even a RLX Titanium version which we have already seen a prototype of, makes its debut in 2023.

Rolex Yacht-Master 37/40 Everose Gold

But Zach, what about rose gold? What if 42mm is too big for my wrist.  Well, you are in luck. Not only is the Yacht-Master available in an Everose case, but also in 37mm and 40mm sizes. The Everose model has yet to make the jump to 42mm, but the 37mm and 40mm configurations are every bit as up to spec as the 42mm. It utilises Rolex’s latest in-house automatic 3235 calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, it is also outfitted on the super comfortable Oysterflex bracelet, it follows the same visual theme with a fully polished case and stealthy matte black ceramic timing bezel, and it has a trip-lock screw-down crown secured Oyster case that is equally pledged with a depth rating of 100 metres – but could likely survive even greater depths. So, within this format you have three precious metal options and three case diameters. And the precious meets casual nature of being outfitted on a rubber bracelet makes the aesthetic, along with its size options, highly versatile.

Rolex Yacht-Master 37/40 Oystersteel and Platinum

But Zach, precious metal is totally out of my budget.  Well, while we wait for an Oysterflex-fitted Yacht-Master to be executed in steel or titanium, you still have Oystersteel and platinum options to work with as well. Available in 37mm and 40mm, on mixed finished oyster bracelets rather than on Oysterflex, the examples above are primarily made of 904L stainless steel. The platinum comes into play with the timing bezel, the insert made entirely of platinum. The gray ruthenium dial offers a really cool monochromatic look, broken ever so slightly by the turquoise Yacht-Master text and central lollipop seconds hand. If you are a New York Giants fan, or just simply prefer a more common blue dial with a pop of red, the configuration on your right is also available to explore. Both also utilise the 3235 movement as well.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 White Gold Falcon’s Eye

Rolex is known for incremental change, and, for the most part, a sombreness befitting of their reputation for incredibly solid robust performance watches. But, in the modern era, as Rolex has skewed away from utility towards full-blown luxury, the Crown has begun to experiment a bit more. Sure, we have crazy pave dials, ombre dials, and rainbow Daytonas. But, the quietly released Yacht-Master 42 with a “Falcon’s Eye” dial shows just how strong their dial-manufacturing capabilities are. Many jested Rolex stole a page out of Grand Seiko’s playbook, with nature-inspired palm tree-motif dials on the Datejust. But this “Falcon’s Eye” dial is much more apt example of how Rolex can transform natural elements into an astoundingly cool looking dial. So, for those that need something out of the box, the Yacht-Master 42 is capable of such thrills as well.

Rolex Yacht-Master 35 ref. 168622 with platinum dial

While discontinued, older 29mm, 31mm, and 35mm Yacht-Master watches are also available for purchase as well – and for less than the retail pricing of a current 37mm model in Oystersteel and platinum. This means you have five size options on the table. To explore references like the Daytona and Submariner in their discontinued smaller sizes would require a large-budget worthy of bidding against serious collectors at auction houses like Phillips. A particular Yacht-Master favourite of mine is the ref. 168622 with a platinum dial. Yes, you read that right, the entire dial is made of solid frosted platinum. While the case and bracelet may be steel, the bezel and dial are full-platinum – very stealthy precious metal thrills. I also cannot recall another Rolex dial that utilises a frosted finish. Quite neat.

My closing statement

So, with six size options that can be explored, and a wide aesthetic range, the Rolex Yacht-Master offers the most versatility within the pantheon of Rolex “Professional” models. Prove me wrong.

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Hands-On Rolex Made A Wearable Titanium Watch – How Are People Not Freaking Out?

Any other year, the titanium yacht-master 42 would steal the show for rolex. this year, the brand has so many crazy releases that the ym flies under the radar. here's why it still matters..

A year ago, the very idea of a titanium Rolex was relegated to wild dreams. A prototype had been seen on the wrist of British competitive sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, but the widely circulated online photo had gotten so old that some of us began to wonder if the watch would ever see the light of day.

The pic that launched our titanium dreams. Image by Ineos Britannia Team / C GREGORY

Now, in less than five months, we've gotten two watches from the Crown cased in RLX Titanium (a grade 5 titanium). The first was last year's 50mm Deep Sea Special , the mega dive watch that obliterated the water-resistance record. And now this week we have the Yacht-Master 42, which unlike the DSS is sized so that a normal human being could conceivably wear it. 

Here it is. The first practically sized titanium Rolex, the new Yacht-Master 42. 

It's a big deal. But when seen next to Daytonas with display casebacks, Day-Dates with emojis, a solid-gold GMT-Master II, and an entirely new line of dress watches, a titanium Yacht-Master barely moves the needle of surprise and excitement. What a wild 48 hours this has been for the House of Wilsdorf.

In some ways, it feels like the appropriate response to not be that excited. After all, at this point every other watchmaker under the sun has made a titanium watch, from affordable Citizens in multiple colors of bezels and dials to Jean-Claude Biver's $500,000 minute repeater tourbillon announced Sunday.

And yet, as soon as the new titanium Yacht-Master ref. 226627 started to be passed around the room of Hodinkee editors during this week's Watches & Wonders trade show, the general reaction was just to laugh with surprise. This 42mm watch, which looks so sturdy, feels so unbelievably light. I mean, that's titanium for you. But still. You can't quite believe this watch is real, on a number of different levels. 

For any of us who've ever tried on a steel Submariner (a.k.a. anyone with a passing interest in Rolex), it's kind of comical to find out how much your brain is preconditioned to see a 42mm steel Oyster case, round indices, and Mercedes hands and think about the luxurious heft that awaits you.

At around 100 grams, according to Rolex, the titanium Yacht-Master is so light it breaks your brain.

For a moment, let's compare the new YM to last year's titanium Pelagos from Rolex's sister brand Tudor. Rolex's choice to put the watch on a bracelet instead of a sportier Oysterflex makes the comparison obvious. I've now spent time with both pieces, and I prefer the Yacht-Master. 

The YM, like the Pelagos, is distinctly a tool watch – something that would have been hard to say about Yacht-Masters in the past. But the finishing a world apart, which is saying something for such an understated metal as titanium.

Rolex's proprietary grade 5 "RLX Titanium" (stronger than the grade 2 of the Pelagos) has the curious property of being equally able to be brushed satin or polished, which means it has the nice sharp and shiny chamfers that you'd like to see contrasted against the dark grey and relatively matte metal. That combination also works well with the more matte and textured dial – and with the contrast of the raised black numerals against a matte ceramic bezel insert, which is is the main giveaway that this is still squarely a Yacht-Master.

My main critique (which I share into the void, knowing that Rolex designers will do whatever they think best) is that I wish they'd  stuck to the no-date design of Ainsilie's prototype. In the practical application of most sailing races, there's really no use for a date. If you're blue-water sailing and circumnavigating the globe, maybe its useful, though just like dive watches the practical application gives way to the reality of technology. So why not refine the design further and leave the date off altogether? And while we're at it, a better quick-adjustment option would be great.

The price is somewhat immaterial – CHF 13,400 – since the average collector won't be able to get it at retail anytime soon. But the new Yacht-Master 42 is more than a solid release. It's a more than a titanium proof of concept. It's a wearable piece that portends at least the possibility of future experiments with this fascinating material. 

For more information visit Rolex. 

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Rolex Jubilee Bracelet: Complete Guide

The bracelet on which a watch is on actually plays an important role in how the watch looks and wears.

Over the years, Rolex has made some designs of watches that have become true icons, but over time, Rolex’s bracelets have also come to become loved, iconic, and appreciated watch bracelet thanks to their design, comfort, and look.

In this article, we will focus on the Rolex Jubilee bracelet. Because just like with their watches, Rolex has continuously improved, redesigned, and refined its bracelet in order to be more reliable, more robust, and ultimately, ” perpetual ”.

This goes in line with Rolex as a brand of always trying to perfect and improve. Remember, Rolex is not about revolution, but evolution. This is why the Jubilee bracelet from Rolex today is so much more reliable and robust compared to when it was first launched.

Rolex jubilee bracelet: History and background

The Rolex Jubilee bracelet was first launched in 1945. As the name suggests, it was released to celebrate a jubilee. More specifically, in celebration of Rolex’s 40th anniversary. Originally, the Jubilee bracelet was specifically designed for the Datejust line, but as you know, that is not the case today.

Over the years, the Jubilee bracelet has been improved and refined, but in its design, it remains largely unchanged throughout the years. Initially, the Jubilee bracelet was only available in solid gold but eventually came to become offered in two-tone and steel variants. The reason for this is that the President bracelet stepped up and took this place as Rolex’s premier bracelet option when it was released in the 1950s. Today, the Jubilee bracelet is made in all metals except full gold and platinum.

Further on, the Jubilee bracelet was also offered on some of Rolex’s Professional models such as the GMT-Master. This has now come full swing, as Rolex, after a break, now offers professional watches with the Jubilee bracelet. More specifically some of the references in the GMT-Master II range.

Each Rolex bracelet has its purpose and amongst the options of bracelets, the Jubilee bracelet is a mixture between the Oyster and President bracelet. It is less sporty and more elegant than the Oyster bracelet, but it is also less dressy than the President bracelet.

Over the years, the Jubilee bracelet has been used for a wide variety of watches, but technically, it has always remained the same. Equally so in terms of looks, it still stays very true to the original design. This goes to show just how timeless the Jubilee bracelet design truly is.

Rolex Jubilee bracelet design

The Jubilee bracelet has a five-piece, semi-circular link design, which appears more luxurious and elegant than the Oyster because of having 5 links instead of 3. The increased number of links also means that the Jubilee bracelet catches the light beautifully and almost looks like a piece of jewelry in itself.

This design has come to become so iconic that it is a bracelet that you immediately associate with Rolex.

The three middle links on the Jubilee bracelet are polished, and the links on each side are brushed. The sides of the bracelet are polished, and the inside is brushed. The Jubilee bracelet links are flat on the inside, which makes the bracelet sit more snug against the wrist which really is a great design feature.

Rolex Jubilee bracelet reference numbers

Over the years, Rolex has released a number of different Jubilee bracelet references. Each new reference means a new revised and refined bracelet in one way or another. Some updates are more notable than others.

Something that has changed several times over the years is the clasp of the Jubilee bracelet.

Most notable of the Jubilee bracelets are the 7xxx and the 9xxx series with a dozen of end links to match.

The Rolex Jubilee 6251H was the bracelet of choice for the vintage Rolex GMT from its very early beginnings.

Furthermore, the Rolex Jubilee was an option offered on the early Rolex Daytona watches as it could accommodate both the 20mm for the GMT and the 19mm flush fit for the Daytona.  

Originally, the first Jubilee bracelet in full gold featured an exposed, flat clasp with the Rolex crown at the top. Following, Rolex changed to smaller, larger, more modern, hidden, and now, the Oyster clasp.

Now, here are some of the reference numbers of the Jubilee bracelets:

• 63130 – 63131 – 63133 13 mm-Lady-Datejust
• 63160 – 63161 -63163-16 mm-Datejust 31 mm
• 63208-20 mm-Datejust 36 mm
• 63600 – 63601 – 63603 20 mm Datejust 36 mm
• 64169-16 mm-Datejust 31 mm
• 72848 – 72849-17 mm-DateJust “Special Edition”
• 74818 – 74819 17 mm-DateJust “Special Edition”
• 74828 74829 17 mm-DateJust “Special Edition”
• 74838-17 mm-DateJust “Special Edition”
• 74848-17 mm-DateJust “Special Edition”
• 74858-17 mm-DateJust “Special Edition”
• 72746 -72748-20 mm-Day-Date-” Special Edition”
• 72748 Tridor-20 mm-Day-Date “Special Edition”
• 74746 Bril-20 mm-Day-Date “Special Edition”
• 74138 – 74139 13 mm-Lady-Datejust
• 62510H stainless steel 20mm. For Rolex references 16750, 1601, 1600 depending on the end link.  
• 62523H Jubilee bracelet
• 63600 Rolex Super Jubilee. Hidden crown clasp. Fits many sports models such as 16710BLNR.
• 6251H The 6251H is the older, less robust version of the Jubilee reference 62510H. This is because the links are folded, unlike the 62510H which has solid links.
• 6252h. Released in the 1960s.

The H at the end of the reference numbers stands for ” Homme ”, as in men.

In 2018 came a huge change to the Jubilee bracelet. Rolex originally offered the GMT-Master on Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, but eventually, Rolex removed the option of Jubilee bracelet for their steel sports models

However, in 2018, Rolex released their latest GMT-Master II in steel with a Pepsi bezel and Jubilee bracelet. Then in 2019, Rolex came to introduce yet another version of the new steel GMT-Master II on the Jubilee; the black and blue bezel version aka the Batman reference 126710BLNR.

With this launch, Rolex also stated that from now on, the GMT-Master II in steel will be  only  available with a jubilee bracelet.

Not only is this a major introduction to use the Jubilee bracelet for sports models, but it also goes to show that the Jubilee bracelet, while timeless, is very much in fashion right now.

Rolex Jubilee bracelet stretch

Probably the most notable issue with Rolex Jubilee bracelets is the immense stretch that they develop over time. This is particularly true for the earliest Jubilee bracelets. Over time, because of wear, the earlier Jubilee bracelets get a lot of stretch, even to the point where you hold the watch’s head on the side, the bracelet does almost a 90-degree turn.

Here is an example of what we mean:

Photo: https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=446594

When a bracelet gets this type of stretch, it not only becomes uncomfortable on the wrist, but the watch slides around on the wrist and doesn’t sit steady. But it is also a danger, as more stretch means even more wear, tear, and stress on the bracelet, which ultimately can mean that it will break. Now, all bracelets will get stretched over time when used, but depending on how they are built, they may get more or less stretch.

As written on Rolexforums:

”The “stretch” isn’t metal bending or weakening, it’s due to friction when the bracelet link pins rotate inside and wear the holes. The more the links move, the more they wear and looser they become. The result is an apparent “stretch”. Wearing your bracelet tight will reduce the movement of the links and reduce the rate of wear compared with if you wear your bracelet loose. Loose-wearing = accelerated wear/stretch.”

The stretch also has to do with dirt, grime, and such being abrasive and wearing the bracelet pins and links where they make contact. This is why, in particular, if you have an older Jubilee bracelet, it is a good idea to clean it with a toothbrush, soap, and warm water.

Note that Rolex does not fix the stretch of a bracelet if you send it in for repair. Instead, they will replace the bracelet.

Now, of course, Rolex has acknowledged this issue, since their goal is to manufacture watches and accessories that will last for generations. But as a matter of fact, the older Jubilee bracelets will barely last for one generation if used regularly. The reason why the earlier Jubilee bracelets got so much stretch is that they did not use solid links, similar to the Oyster bracelets of the time. Instead, the links are folded. The folded links do not provide the same robustness and resistance to wear as solid links.

Not only are the links folded, but the middle-link structure only consists of two metal ”rings”, which, as you can see in the image, are not very sturdy and robust.

The first step to making more robust Jubilee bracelets is introducing solid links, and this, of course, Rolex has done.

So, what has Rolex done about this issue?

Well, it’s safe to say that the issue with stretch on the Jubilee bracelets has become better and better with each new reference that Rolex has released. One of the major updates to the Jubilee bracelet is when they introduced solid links.

Another huge update to the most modern Jubilee bracelets is one that not everyone is aware of, and that is that Rolex has implemented ceramic into its links to minimize stretch. It’s something that most people will never find out, but which have a huge effect on the technical functionality of the bracelet and minimizing stretch.

Rolex Oyster bracelet VS Jubilee

This is an interesting comparison, and really, there’s no right or wrong here.

Some people just prefer the sportiness of the Oyster bracelet above the classiness of the Jubilee bracelet, or the other way around.

There’s no denying that the Oyster bracelet is far sportier and more robust than the Jubilee bracelet, so it depends on if you are more towards the dressier, or more towards the sportier side of things.

Both bracelets are of course finished to perfection and have a high feel of quality to them. Prior to the release of the GMT, the Jubilee bracelet was mainly seen as a classy dressier bracelet. But now that it is used on multiple steel sports watches, this perception has changed slightly.

Now, the Jubilee bracelet has proven that it is a perfect all-around bracelet that works all around. The Oyster bracelet, on the other hand, is not perceived as elegant, which makes it less suitable for more dressed-up occasions. Even though, of course, the Submariner, for example, has proven to work with a suit exceptionally well.

At the end of the day, it comes down to preference. Both the Jubilee and Oyster are great bracelets and really comfortable to wear.

Just like Rolex’s watches, the Jubilee bracelet has gotten an iconic place in history and in the world of watch bracelets. And like all of Rolex’s products, it has been iterated, improved, and refined, over the years, in order to be able to offer superior reliability and quality.

Today, the Jubilee bracelet is one of Rolex’s most popular bracelets which finds its way into more and more models from Rolex.

The fact that it was released in 1945 proves that, just like many of Rolex’s watches, they pass the test of time as truly timeless classics.

Do you have any additional specific questions regarding Rolex bracelets?  Consult one of our watch experts here !

49 thoughts on “ Rolex Jubilee Bracelet: Complete Guide ”

will a factory jubilee replacement bracelet for a 16233 1992 datejust have the newer solid links

Hi, No, the factory replacement bracelet will have hollow/folded end links, just like the original.

Kind regards, Millenary Watches

Does Lady Datejust 179313 26mm have solid or hollow links in the jubilee bracelet ?

Hi, This model has solid links.

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Rolex Bracelets, Bands & Straps: Ultimate Guide

While it is often overlooked, the strap or bracelet on your Rolex is almost as important as the watch itself. Rolex makes some of the most iconic and recognizable bracelet designs of all time; however, there exist several different bracelet styles in Rolex's catalog – in addition to a small handful of different strap options.

Although the case, dial, and bezel arguably draw the most attention, a Rolex watch's look is not complete without its bracelet or strap. In fact, we'd venture to say that switching out a strap changes the look of a Rolex watch completely. That's not necessarily true with other parts of the watch. Take a look at our in dept Rolex bracelet and straps guides for tips on how to wear and adjust your watch to your needs.

Rolex takes its straps and bracelets very seriously. It is not an afterthought but rather an integral part of its famous timepieces. For instance, the Rolex Day-Date's famous nickname is the "President" in part because of its bracelet. The other part is because it's the go-to luxury watch of countless political and business leaders.

Speak to any Rolex fan and they’ll tell you how comfortable and well-made most Rolex bracelets and bands are. Additionally, not only does Rolex continuously improve upon the bracelets they already have, but the company also introduces new ones. Rolex unveiled a completely new bracelet, the Oysterflex, a few years ago. Such an important timepiece component deserves some attention, so sit back, strap in, and read our ultimate guide to Rolex bracelets, bands, and straps.

Learn How to Change straps and Bracelets on a Rolex Watch Here

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

We'll start with the most ubiquitous Rolex band - the Oyster bracelet. It may come as a surprise to learn that the Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex collection for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it's important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s.

The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat and the links have evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links. Over the years, the "rivet" style links would be replaced by a thicker "folded" style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.

Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links

Today, the Oyster bracelet is the most widespread band style found in Rolex’s lineup, available in almost all Rolex collections. It is the bracelet of choice of famous Rolex sports watches like the Submariner and the Daytona, as well as, quintessential dress watches like the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual—and plenty in between. Of course, there are also different sizes of the Oyster bracelet depending on the watch. From the smaller Lady-Datejust timepieces to the larger GMT-Master pilot watches to the jumbo Deepsea dive watches, the versatile Oyster bracelet is always a great fit. 

Oyster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

In addition to being the most prevalent Rolex band, the Oyster bracelet is also available in every metal Rolex uses. Additionally, there are Oyster bracelets set with diamonds for some ultra-special Rolex jewelry watches. The last number in any Rolex bracelet code denotes the material.

• 0 = Steel and/or 904L Oystersteel
• 1 = Everose Gold & Steel
• 3 = Yellow Gold & Steel
• 5 = Rose Gold
• 6 = Platinum
• 8 = Yellow Gold
• 9 = White Gold

Depending on the model, the Oyster bracelet comes equipped with a range of clasps. Here's a list of the type of clasp used on current-production Rolex watches with Oyster bracelets. What's the difference between the Oysterclasp and Oysterlock? Aesthetically, the former has the Rolex coronet embossed into the clasp whereas the latter includes the coronet as part of the opening mechanism. Mechanically, the Oysterclasp is constructed with a folding clasp with a cover while the Oysterlock is built with a folding safety clasp, a cover, and a safety catch. The Easylink extension system permits the wearer to extend the bracelet by 5mm while the Glidelock can lengthen the bracelet by 20mm in 2mm intervals. Furthermore, the Fliplock extension links allow the band to be adjusted by an additional 26 mm to fit over thicker diving suits.

Oyster Bracelet Clasp Type

The rolex jubilee bracelet.

Dressier than the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 on the then-new Datejust timepiece. Its five-piece links construction includes three thinner interior links flanked by larger links. These two different link sizes are especially noticeable on two-tone Rolesor versions when the interior links are in yellow or Everose gold. It is one of Rolex’s dressier bracelet styles, available in a bevy of metal options and sizes. 

While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists—standard practice in horology back in the day. Some bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links. 

The Jubilee has continued as a mainstay in the Datejust collection however, the current steel versions of the sporty GMT-Master II watch are also paired with the Jubilee bracelet.

Jubilee Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

The Jubilee bracelet is fitted with a concealed folding Crownclasp, which has a Rolex coronet lever that opens the bracelet to reveal folding blades. The concealment of the clasp allows the intricate pattern of the Jubilee links to run seamlessly around the wrist.

The Rolex President Bracelet

The Rolex President bracelet was first introduced on the inaugural Day-Date watch in 1956. Its signature semi-circular three-piece links are instantly recognizable and highly sought-after. Rolex only ever produces the President bracelet in precious metals—never in steel. There are yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as, platinum versions of the President bracelet. For ultra-lavish versions, there are also some diamond President bracelets available too.

The President bracelet is exclusive to all Day-Date watches—Day-Date 36, Day-Date II, and Day-Date 40—as well as some precious metal Lady-Datejust and Datejust 31 models. 

Over the years, Rolex made some noteworthy versions of the President bracelet including the Tridor variety where the center links had a mix of three shades of gold. For a short time in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Rolex also manufactured some President bracelets with bark-like accents on the center links.

President Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

Similar to the Jubilee, the famous President bracelets are always fastened with a concealed folding Crownclasp. Again, this allows for the beautifully curvy bracelet links to wrap around one's wrist without interruption from a bulky clasp.

The Rolex Integrated Bracelets

In 1977, Rolex presented a range of Oysterquartz watches that ran on in-house quartz calibers. In addition to the distinct angular case shapes of the Oysterquartz Datejust and Oysterquartz Day-Date watches, another fundamental design element of these unique Rolex quartz watches were their bracelets.

True to the fashion of the era, Oysterquartz watches have integrated bracelets that taper towards the clasp. A truly unforgettable look, these bracelets are really fantastic. But even more clever is how Rolex took its classic bracelet designs—Oyster, Jubilee, and President - and revamped them into the integrated style.

The stainless steel integrated Oyster bracelet, two-tone integrated Jubilee bracelet, and solid gold integrated President bracelet were designed close enough to the original bands to bear the same names, yet modified enough to give the Oysterquartz watches their singular style. Many Oysterquartz bracelet codes are the same number as the reference of the watch.

Oysterquartz Bracelet Codes, Style, and Watch Model

Interesting editions of the President integrated bracelet for the Oysterquartz Day-Date watches are those with the intricate pyramid patterns.

The Pearlmaster Bracelet

Rolex launched the Pearlmaster bracelet in 1992 for the Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster watches. The Pearlmaster is Rolex's collection of lavish jewelry watches where diamonds and other gems adorn the dial, bezel, bracelet, or all of the above.

Distinguished by their rounded five-piece links, all Pearlmaster bracelets are exclusively in 18k gold, whether in yellow, white, or Everose. Diamond versions range from a pair of diamond-set links to full diamond pavé styles. 

While the Pearlmaster's home is the Pearlmaster watch collection, in the 2000s, Rolex did make some special edition Day-Date "Masterpiece" watches fitted with Pearlmaster bracelets and 39mm cases. This explains why in some circles, the Pearlmaster bracelet is called the Masterpiece bracelet. However, in the official brand catalog, these Masterpiece/Pearlmaster bracelets for the Day-Date were labeled "Oyster Special Edition."

Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

Securing the Pearlmaster bracelet in place is also the concealed folding Crownclasp.

The Rolex Leather Strap

Though Rolex is most famous for its metal bracelets, the Swiss watchmaking giant certainly has made its fair share of leather straps too. In fact, early Rolex models came with leather straps including vintage Oyster watches. The advent of Rolex tool watches — Explorer, Submariner, Milgauss, and GMT-Master — brought about the dominance of metal bracelets in the Rolex Oyster catalog. On the other hand, as the brand’s more traditional dress watch, Rolex Cellini watches have often had leather straps. All current Cellini watches are fitted with leather straps equipped with tang buckles. 

In the early 2000s, Rolex revealed some special white gold Daytona models with colorful dials and even more colorful leather straps. Dubbed the "Daytona Beach" collection, these vibrant chronographs donned pink, turquoise, green, and yellow exotic leather straps.

There is an assortment of modern Rolex watches with leather straps such as the Sky-Dweller, Daytona, Day-Date, and Datejust. The Day-Date 36 with leather is yet another collection of colorful dial and leather combinations, including green, blue, Bordeaux, and chocolate. Completing these leather straps are matching gold folding Crownclasp buckles for easy adjusting and optimal security.

Rolex recently replaced all leather Daytona watches with another style of bracelet, the Oysterflex.

The Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

The newest Rolex bracelet to join the catalog, the Oysterflex is the brand’s version of a rubber strap. Making its debut on the Everose Yacht-Master in 2015, the Oysterflex may look like an ordinary black rubber strap. But of course, it isn't.

First, Rolex insists on calling it a bracelet rather than a strap. This is because of its unique construction. The proprietary Oysterflex actually begins as a titanium and nickel metal alloy blade. That metal blade is then coated in black elastomer. This clever combination means the Oysterflex is both robust like metal yet flexible like rubber.

Flip the Oysterflex bracelet over and you'll find a patented cushion system that resembles fins. This detail allows for much-needed air circulation to keep the sweatiness typically associated with rubber straps at bay.

When the Oysterflex first launched, it was only available on the Everose Yacht-Master 40 and Everose Yacht-Master 37. The white gold Yacht-Master 42 later followed with an Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet is now also an option on yellow, white, and Everose gold Daytona models. As previously mentioned, the Oysterflex Daytona watches have replaced the leather Daytona models.

There are three widths for the Oysterflex bracelets and each side of the bracelet comes in six different lengths, which are categorized from letters C to H. Rolex currently only pairs the Oysterflex bracelet with gold versions of the Yacht-Master and Daytona.

Oysterflex Bracelet Codes, Bracelet Wide, and Watch Model

Finishing off the Oysterflex bracelets are matching gold Oysterlock safety clasps along with the 5mm Easylink extension system. However, the newer Yacht-Master 42 includes the Glidelock on its clasp.

The Iconic Rolex Bracelets

As we've illustrated, the bracelet style is such a significant part of the look and feel of a Rolex watch. It's one thing to have certain watch models that are so famous that they are recognizable just by their model names without the need to mention the brand name. Rolex took it further by applying this same icon-making approach to its collection of bracelets.

Rolex bracelets have their own names, distinct design language, histories, and marketing campaigns. No other luxury brand celebrates the watch bracelet as intensely as Rolex does. Drop the names Oyster, Jubilee, and President, and people who know watches immediately know what these Rolex bracelets look like. Similar to cases and movements, Rolex dedicates an enormous amount of research and development to their bracelets too. And it clearly shows when you put one of them on.

The Rolex GMT-Master II Steel & Yellow Gold 126713GRNR, And Why I Fell For It

I shouldn't like this watch... but i actually do..

Of course, there were some more important new models presented by Rolex at Watches and Wonders 2023. The updated Daytona , moving to a 12xxxx generation, the titanium Yacht-Master 42 or a new dress watch, the convincing Perpetual 1908 . Nevertheless, a pair of new models – to make it clear, colour and material updates on an existing watch – managed to get quite some traction. I’m talking about new yellow gold-equipped GMT-Master II watches , and specifically the Steel and Yellow Gold (call it two-tone or yellow Rolesor) reference 126713GRNR. At first, this watch should be everything I don’t like… But life is sometimes surprising. 

Above: the 116713LN and 116718LN, models discontinued circa 2019, equipped with yellow gold case/bracelet, or yellow Rolesor case/bracelet – images by www.watchclub.com

Before I go up close and personal with the 126713GRNR (reference numbers are going more and more complex at Rolex…) we first need to recap the facts, and look at this new two-tone steel and yellow gold GMT-Master II for what it is. First of all, next to the full yellow gold version (reference 126718GRNR), this new model marks the return of yellow gold in the collection. Indeed, since the discontinuation of the solid yellow gold models – 116718LN green or black dial – and the two-tone yellow Rolesor – 116713LN – a few years ago, your only option for precious metal GMTs were Everose (solid or matched with steel ), or white gold . And, also important, they all come on an Oyster bracelet.

These two new models feel actually very much like no-brainers, like unsurprising, totally expected models. Why? Because it feels natural to have Yellow Rolesor or solid yellow gold models in the collection. The watches you assume exist… but actually didn’t, at least for some years (from 2019 to 2023). So what’s the deal in 2023? Well, first of all, yellow gold, as a stand-alone material or combined with steel, returns to the Rolex GMT collection. Second, there’s a new two-tone bezel, in an unprecedented colour combination. Third, there’s a Jubilee bracelet in precious metal on the GMT, which is not only new but also hot. Last, I hate to say it, but they look very attractive. And I believe that it’s quite a general consensus here.

Today, I’ve decided to specifically look at the GMT-Master II Steel and Yellow Gold 126713GRNR. Why? First of all, while being a highly attractive watch, the full gold model is very flashy indeed and retails for almost 40k euros. Not very “wide audience” watch material. Second, the two-tone version has made yet another impression on me. It’s rather interesting to look at how tastes and trends evolve. Two-tone watches used to have a rather negative image in the past, but they’ve moved from “poor man’s” options (understand, I want gold but can’t afford the solid gold one) to “cool man’s” options recently. So, here’s my choice. Even I have a hard time explaining why… It’s everything I shouldn’t like.

Back to basics. This new Steel and Yellow Gold Rolex GMT is nothing more than a visual update. Case; the same Oystersteel middle case as before, measuring a typical Rolex 40mm diameter, a relatively thin 11.90mm height (it’s still a sports watch with a rotating bezel and 100m water-resistance after all), and a still acceptable 48mm length. Dimensions, shapes, and finishes are all identical to a Pepsi or a  Batgirl , with now a solid 18k yellow gold Triplock screw-down crown and notched bezel. The other novelty comes from the new ceramic insert, in an unprecedented combination of black and mid-grey ( GR is N oi R ). And I must that this muted, discreet combination pairs brilliantly with the warm tone of YG. As if Rolex wanted to keep the attention only on the gold accents, whether on the case, bracelet, bezel or dial. The rest is all discreet, subtle. This new insert is almost like a graduation on black. And I think it works even better next to the steel parts of this Rolesor edition.

As for the dial, it’s pretty straightforward too. No evolution to be noted in the design, it’s all about the colours and materials. As you’d expect, the black lacquered base is glossy, with applied hour markers and hands that match the case – thus, made of 18k yellow gold. And Rolex has also been slightly restrained when it comes to touches of colour. No flashy green or red accents on the GMT hand and GMT-Master II mention, just the same tone of gold as the rest of the dial. Tasteful and elegant, with just the dosage of bling you want in a gold or two-tone watch.

Importantly, this new GMT-Master II two-tone 126713GRNR, as well as the full yellow gold model, marks the first appearance of the Jubilee bracelet on precious metal GMT watches. It was only reserved for the steel Pepsi , Batgirl and Destro versions up until now. It means a 5-link, slightly vintage bracelet with polished 18k gold central links and brushed steel external links. Clasp; classic Oysterlock folding safety clasp with Easylink comfort extension link. Comfort; classic Jubilee, supple, soft and flexible. And the look is just as good as it gets (if you love Rolex and this style, of course).

Mechanically, no evolution either here. The new Rolesor GMT-Master II comes equipped with the Calibre 3285, an in-house automatic movement with Superlative Chronometer certification – meaning COSC certification and internal Rolex testing after casing, with -2/+2 seconds/day accuracy range. It features all of the brand’s latest innovations, including the Chronergy escapement, the Parachrom hairspring and paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel, with a comfortable 70h power reserve. And like all watches from the range, it’s a flyer/traveller’s GMT watch , with an independently adjustable local hour hand, by one-hour increments.

So, why did I fall for this new 126713GRNR…? Besides the obvious quality of the watch, there’s something that goes down, as simple as it is, to feelings. For a rather inexplicable, or at least tangible reason, this new model created emotions in me. I used to own a GMT-Master II in the past (a reference 116710LN to be precise) and I’ve always loved the functionality and overall robustness of the watch, but blamed a certain lack of warmth and fun. It felt too technical, too cold. While I do believe that most professional Rolex watches should be steel, due to their own purposeful nature, the GMT-Master II is the one watch in the range that can use some bling, some colours, and some precious materials… Keep in mind that the Rolex GMT has never been a pilot’s watch in the military sense of the concept. It has always been a civilian watch, for travelling up in the sky.

All in all, and I’m fully aware that I’m being subjective here, I do believe this 126713GRNR is the new coolest GMT. And yes, you can tell me that I’m wrong in the comments below and list what version you prefer, because in the end, it’s all about personal tastes.

The Rolex GMT-Master II Steel and Yellow Gold 126713GRNR is now released and “available” from retailers (relatively speaking, even if the situation seems to have recently improved a bit) at a price of EUR 16,300 ,  CHF 15,700 or  USD 16,450 . More details at rolex.com .

Technical specifications – Rolex GMT-Master II Steel and Yellow Gold 126713GRNR

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The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in Oystersteel and yellow gold with a black dial and a Jubilee bracelet.

24-hour rotatable bezel, innovative high-technology.

This model features a black dial and a two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic. In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, the GMT-Master II features an arrow-tipped hand, which circles the dial once every 24 hours, as well as a bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel.

The distinctively coloured 24-hour hand displays the “home” reference time in a first time zone which can be read on the graduations on the bezel. The traveller’s local time is easily set by “jumping” from hour to hour, thanks to an ingenious mechanism operated via the winding crown: the hour hand can be adjusted forwards or backwards independently of the minute and seconds hands. This allows travellers to adapt to their new time zone without affecting the precision of their timekeeping.

High legibility in all circumstances

Like all Rolex Professional watches, the GMT-Master II offers exceptional legibility in all circumstances, and especially in the dark, thanks to its Chromalight display.

The broad hands and hour markers in simple shapes – triangles, circles, rectangles – are filled with a luminescent material emitting a long-lasting glow.

Yellow Rolesor

A meeting of two metals.

Gold is coveted for its lustre and nobility. Steel reinforces strength and reliability. Together, they harmoniously combine the best of their properties.

A true Rolex signature, Rolesor has featured on Rolex models since the early 1930s, and was trademarked as a name in 1933. It is one of the prominent pillars of the Oyster collection.

The Jubilee bracelet

Supple and comfortable.

This version of the GMT-Master II is fitted with a Jubilee bracelet. Supple and comfortable, the five-piece link Jubilee bracelet was specially created for the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust model in 1945.

The Jubilee bracelet on this model is equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also features the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the bracelet length to be increased by approximately 5 mm. A concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.

More GMT-Master II technical details

Reference   126713GRNR

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Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel and yellow gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Yellow Rolesor - combination of Oystersteel and yellow gold

Bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel. Two-colour grey and black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, moulded numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding, GMT function

3285, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. 24-hour display. Second time zone with independent rapid-setting of the hour hand. Instantaneous date. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Jubilee, five-piece links

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

GMT-Master II

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