c&c 35 sailboat

First impressions Although both versions of the boat are similar in appearance, there are some notable differences, especially below the waterline. Both boats have a modest sheerline with fairly long overhangs, at least by today's standards. The LOA of the MK I is 34 feet, 7 inches and the LWL is 27 feet, 6 inches, revealing an overhang ratio of about 20 percent. The hull has a bit of flare forward and a springy stern with a slightly reversed transom. The underwater sections show rounded bilge sections, and although the boat was considered flat and beamy in its day, it seems softer to modern eyes. The cabintrunk on the MK I featured a distinctive spray dodger molding. The MK II replaced this molding with a slight rise in the trunk. The MK I has a single long portlight in the saloon while the MK II has two smaller ones. Below the water, the MK I has a swept-back shark fin keel shape and an odd scimitar-shaped spade rudder trailing aft. The shape of this rudder, designed to keep the leading edge in turbulence-free water, was changed to a more balanced, freestanding blade on the MK II. The aft sections were also changed, flattened a bit, to take advantage of the IOR rule. The ballast was increased by 600 pounds in the MK II and the sail area increased by 50 square feet. Interior modifications combined to add nearly 30 percent to the displacement. Although the MK II has a more modern hull shape, and an LWL 2 feet, 9 inches longer, 35 owners who still race the boat prefer the performance of the lighter MK I.

Construction The 35 predates C&C's extensive production of cored hulls, and the hull is made of relatively thick, solid, hand-laid-up fiberglass. However, the deck is composite with a balsa core. The hull and deck are joined on a standard flange and bonded chemically and mechanically. The overall construction is typical of the time, fairly heavy and not overly sophisticated. It is always interesting to read old reviews of the 35. Writers in the early 1970s considered the 10,500-pound 35 MK I to be almost radically light. Bulkheads are securely glassed in place as is most of the interior infrastructure. Some secondary bondings have not held up well, but that's a sign of age more than a problem with the original construction. The keel is externally fastened with stainless fasteners, and the rudder stock is also stainless steel. The rudder is foam and fiberglass. Transverse floors are constructed of glassed-over plywood and can be subject to delamination. C&C's finish work was high quality, although the extensive use of Formica definitely dates the boat.

What to look for The first thing to remember is that most C&C 35s are 30 years old. It is remarkable, really, how well the boats have aged, especially because almost all 350s have been raced hard at some point during their lives. When you begin inspecting boats on the used market, look for a 35 with a new engine. The original power plant was the well-loved and much maligned Universal Atomic 4. This venerable gas engine is reliable and cheap to repair or replace; still, I'd look for a boat with a retrofitted diesel, an upgrade that doesn't seem to drastically alter the asking price. Late in the production run some MK II models were fitted with small Westerbeke diesels, which many owners have repowered over the years. Leaks are a common ailment in most 35s, particularly at the hull-and-deck joint and around the portlights. Bedding compound that has lost resiliency primarily causes these leaks. Remember that, while it is a straightforward task to rebed the ports, curing a chronic leak in the hull-and-deck joint is more challenging. Also, check the keel bolts, as some owners noted that iron washers were used, which of course, have likely rusted and will need to be replaced. While in the bilge, look closely at the floors for signs of cracks, rot or delamination. The main bulkhead also needs close examination: Check to see if the bonding is fractured. Naturally check all the age-related items, especially old seacocks, hose clamps and other below-the-waterline fittings.

On deck The cockpits of the MK I and MK II have a few differences to be aware of. The MK I features a cockpit traveler just forward of the helm, effectively creating separate steering and trimming stations. On the MK II the traveler was moved forward, usually above the companionway. The MK II has a substantial bridgedeck, a nice safety feature, while the MK I has a low-cut companionway with just a small sill, making it necessary to keep the bottom washboard in place in wet conditions. Both cockpits have a low coaming that hits you right smack in the small of your back, so seat cushions are a big help. Also, the helm station is well aft, effectively leaving the helmsman exposed to the elements, although the low-profile cabintrunk does provide good visibility from the cockpit, especially looking to leeward past a big genny. The side decks are fairly wide, considering the overall beam is just 10 feet, 7 inches. The chainplates are located well inboard, as are the headsail tracks, allowing for narrow sheeting angles. Original deck hardware has likely been updated by now, although some boats have been maintained in near original condition, a testament to the overall high quality of the boat. The original nonskid surface is most likely well worn by now, and it is also possible that the decks and cabintrunk have been painted. Many owners used a one-part paint that does not hold up very well and may be peeling; this was the case on both boats I looked at in South Florida. There were different sailplans for each model. The MK II had a tall rig option and many owners opted for a slightly shorter boom.

Down below The interior plan is nearly identical in both models. After stepping below, there is a small chart table to port. The navigator sits on the foot of the quarter berth, a typical arrangement. A small U-shaped galley is to starboard. A two-burner alcohol stove was standard, although it's probable this has been updated. If a propane stove has been installed, be sure to check the system carefully. Sometimes the gas bottle is placed in the cockpit locker, which is not sealed and definitely not safe. A single sink near the centerline faces aft and drains on either tack. The icebox compartment is rather small and will need better insulation to be efficient if upgrading to refrigeration. For short cruises the galley is more than adequate as there is plenty of storage and decent counter space. Incidentally, this arrangement is reversed on the MK II; the galley is to port and the nav desk and quarter berth to starboard. The saloon includes a dinette to port with a settee opposite. I like a dinette arrangement because it keeps the cabin sole clear without having to fold a table up and out of the way. My kids always spend a lot of time around the dinette table when we're under way. The shallow bilge does not allow room for tanks, which were located under the settee and quarter berth on the two boats I looked at. The cabin sole is molded fiberglass, practical and a bit sterile. The head is actually spacious for a 1970's vintage boat with a vanity and wash basin. There are two hanging lockers opposite, which I find a curious use of space. I guess you needed more room for blue blazers back in those days. The double V-berth is long and comfortable, and the cabin is lined with shelves and has lockers underneath the bunks and drawers below.

Engine As noted earlier, the original engine was an Atomic 4, 30-horsepower gas auxiliary. These engines, which were first built in 1947, were installed in almost every boat under 40 feet until the mid-1970s. And, those that haven't been replaced are usually still running. They are pretty simple really, just keep the plugs, distributor and rotor clean, have a decent set of points, add gas and air and the thing will run and run. However, the Atomic 4 doesn't have enough umph to push the C&C 35 into a chop, and gasoline engines are dangerous. Late model MK IIs were offered with the option of a 15-horsepower Westerbeke diesel. Owners who have repowered more recently often have chosen the Yanmar 3GM series engines, or the 25-horsepower Universal diesel that has the same footprint as the Atomic 4.

Under way The reason for buying an older C&C 35 is simple: It's for the sailing. These boats sail beautifully. Whether you are out for an afternoon, club racing under PHRF, pushing the boat in the Bermuda Race or just cruising, the 35 impresses with its performance and handling. By the way, in the 1997 Annapolis to Newport Race, a 1971 MK I finished third overall. Both models are easily driven in light air, although the lighter MK I is faster. However, reaching or running in a good breeze, the MK I, with its scimitar-shaped rudder can be a handful and intriguing broaches are not unknown. The MK II is a bit stiffer, and with a more conventional rudder, easier to handle off the wind. Both models are close-winded and few owners report excessive weather helm. The nature of the rig calls for flying overlapping genoas, which by design can load up the helm. Steve Purdy, who has sailed his 1973 MK I from Virginia to Nova Scotia, sums up the 35's performance like this: "easy to handle and comfortable for two to cruise, but still fast enough to enjoy racing and to be competitive." Not a bad combination for any boat.

Conclusion The C&C 35 is an enduring favorite on the used boat market. It is a handsome, high-quality, fine-sailing boat with a proud pedigree that can be purchased for less than $35,000. Maybe that's why many sailors consider the 35 to be a classic.

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C&C 35

• By Bill Brockway
• Updated: February 8, 2002

Cuthbertson and Cassian designed and built 351 hulls of the C&C; 35 in the 1960s and 70s. The Mark I and Mark II series (pre-1975) are usually available in good shape for an average price of $30,000. The Mark II usually rates lower than the Mark I, but depending on local fleet, the Mark I could be either an A- or B-fleet boat. A crew of five or six is required to race the boat, which sails best to its PHRF rating in medium air. If you’d prefer not owning a boat with a gasoline engine, you’ll want to replace the Atomic 4 engine with a diesel, which will cost about $5,000. A new set of racing sails should cost as much as $10,500. A new racing bottom could cost $3,000.

C&C; 35 http://www.candc35.org Typical monthly costs: $874 Annual budget range: $2,000 to $10,000 PHRF 120-132 LOA 34’7″ LWL 27’6″ Beam 10’7″ Draft 5’3″ Disp. 10,500 lbs. SA 575.5 sq. ft.

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C&C 35-3 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of C&C 35-3. Built by C&C Yachts and designed by C&C Design, the boat was first built in 1982. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 10.57. Its sail area/displacement ratio 18.80. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Yanmar, runs on Diesel.

C&C 35-3 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about C&C 35-3 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the c&c 35-3.

C&C 35-3 was designed by C&C Design.

Who builds C&C 35-3?

C&C 35-3 is built by C&C Yachts.

When was C&C 35-3 first built?

C&C 35-3 was first built in 1982.

How long is C&C 35-3?

C&C 35-3 is 8.53 m in length.

What is mast height on C&C 35-3?

C&C 35-3 has a mast height of 12.59 m.

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1988 C&C 35 MK III

• Naples, FL, US

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Specifications

Descriptions, basic information, dimensions & weight, tank capacities.

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• Garmin GPS-2210 color chart plotter
• Raymarine ST-6002 wheel auto-pilot
• Raymarine ST-60 wind instrument
• Raymarine ST-60 speed instrument
• Raymarine ST-60 depth instrument
• (all interfaced to Garmin plotter)
• Icom M-422 25 watt VHF tranceiver
• Icom HM-157 remote command mike
• Raymarine S-100 wireless remote
• Tacktick digital compass/timer
• Uniden MH-350 handheld VHF radio
• Garmin 45 XL, handheld GPS
• Aquamarine 6" ships compass
• Clarion CMD4 AM/FM/CD & SIRIUS
• Clarion 2636 six CD changer
• 2 Clarion dual cone speakers
• 2 Standard dual cone speakers
• Weems & Plath clock & barometer
• ACR Blue Sea 12vdc batt monitor
• Windex masthead mounted wind
• 120 VAC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
• 30 amp shore power service
• 50' 30 amp shore power cord
• 120 VAC CB/distribution panel
• Numerous 120 vac outlets
• Xantrex Truecharge TC20 charger
• 6 gal 120 AC/engine water heater
• 12 VDC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
• 12-14 vdc 30 amp alternator
• 12 vdc CB/distribution panel
• ACR Blue Sea battery monitor
• 2 grp 27 12 vdc house batteries
• 1 grp 24 12 vdc engine start battery
• Two Perko battery switches
• 12 vdc lighting through the boat
• 12 vdc navigation lighting
• SS anchor support with roller
• 25 lb CQR type galv anchor
• 30' of 5/16 inch galv chain
• 100 ft of 5/8 inch dacron rode
• 4X 25 ft 3/4" dacron dock lines
• Aluminum slotted towrails
• SS stanchions with safety lines
• SS folding stern swim ladder
• Aluminum LPG tank port locker
• Rule 800 GPH auto bilge pump
• Custom white cockpit table
• Stainless steel barbeque
• Lifesling, flares, extinguishers
• 2X aluminum opening hatches
• 3X plastic opening ports
• Aluminum mast base with blocks
• Blue canvass dodger & windows
• Blue canvass bimini top
• Blue canvass mainsail cover
• Blue canvas winch covers
• Blue canvass hatch covers
• Two Barient 2 spd, ST winches
• Four Barient 1 spd winches
• 2 sets of 6 gang rope clutches
• Four 10" winch handles
• Full set, 3" cockpit cushions
• (cushions covered in Textylene)
• Extruded aluminum mast & hardware
• Mast provides internal halyards
• Extruded aluminum boom & hardware
• Navtec rod rigging (not wire)
• Navtec hydraulic backstay adjuster
• North Sails dacron mainsail
• North Sails dacron 135% genoa
• Airforce mylar racing mainsail
• Airforce mylar racing headsail
• Harken roller furling system
• Harken adjustable baby stay
• Forespar telescoping whisker pole
• Harken mainsheet traveler system
• Rope & block type boom vang
• Mainsail lazy jack system
• Whisker pole T-track on mast
• Genoa sheet T-track on deck
• Sta-set low stretch halyards
• Dacron sheets & control lines
• Yanmar 3GM30F 27 HP diesel
• Estimated use hours = 1,900 hrs
• Insulated engine compartment
• Access via front, sides & back

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C&C 35 3

The c&c 35 3 is a 34.67ft masthead sloop designed by robert ball and built in fiberglass by c&c yachts between 1982 and 1987..

The C&C 35 3 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

C&C 35 3 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

1984 c&c 35-3

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Looking at a 1984 C&C 35 mkiii for sale on Lake Michigan. Was wondering if anyone has any input on this boat in terms of surprises or maintenance issues to be aware of. I know any boat this age will probably have these problems, but I've seen a lot online about the Keel needing to be rebedded often; a very thin layer of glass on the keel; C&C "smile" - crack at seam of keel and hull. Apparently the long cabin windows like to develop leaks as well. Rob Ball himself suggested it's too tender for it's rig size... I sail primarily on a '72 C&C 30 and love it. What is performance like on the 35-3. I'm looking for a nice racer/cruiser for use on Lake Michigan - no crossing oceans, but something that can handle a mac race/cruising across the lake and also be comfortable for just short handed day sailing with the girl. Any thoughts/comments are appreciated!  

We have Haleakula an 83 35MKIII. As mentioned C&C smile, but the issue is no different than other C&C Catalinas. We have not had to rebed keel so "often " is not a true statement. The Windows will need resealing proabably. Check mast step also. Chainplates oversized and clearly visable. Check all thru hulls and intrusions into the deck core for proper bedding with moisture meter. Some people stay away from cored boats, but if properly maintained they actually have great degree of lifghtwieght strength and stiffness. Wiring may have to be upgraded to meet current ACBY standards. We are replacing cabin top clutches this year with Garhauers as the original Shaefer are a pain to use. The 35 MKIII was the Jewel of their line back in the early 80s. It is very quick ( 127 phrf) and points extremely well 38-42 degrees. Jijb tracks up against the coach roof well inward of the side stays. They are stiff and carry speed from light air of 5 knotts to 25 knotts. We have the k.c model and no reefeing in steady winds is necessary until 22 knots and she like to be reefed headsail first. We carry a 150 May- September and a 135 in the heavier colder air months. The 35 is very responsive with the large skeg when tacking, can back up easily, and handles like a sports car steering compared to power steering feel of many similar sized production boats. It has the classic lines of boats of that era. They compare very favorably with the Sabre 36 and will outsail all the production boats of comprable and even 5 ft longer size on almost every point of sail. Great club racer/ There are fleets of the 35's on the Great Lakes where you are and tey hav a large owener following. Here on the East Coast there arent as many. They are true racer/ cruisers compared to the T37 which is a cruiser first,Yanmar 3GMF matched well for the boat and cruises at 6.5 under 2700 rpm. Double spreader rig with high aspect main and she will carry 728 sq ft sail area. Huge anchor locker for windlass , washdown pump, and great extra storage. Rod ringing adds to stiffness and mine carries a spinaker halyard and extra jib halyard along with the two regular. Oversized 42 2 speed self tailing winches for the jib. 4 Seperate s/t winches on the coach top for main sheet, centerboard, jib/ spinakker halyards, and main halyard. They are also very comfortable coastal cruising. We take ours 1500 miles every summer out of the Chesapeake to the LI Sound and New England. They are kind in the seaway and handle 30 knotts and 6-8 seas very comfortably. The accomadations are very good for a couple. V berth is spaciaous with over 8-9 ft lengths and wide. Salon is set up nicely. Largest nav station with integrated storage table and drawers on any boat their size. Good storage for a boat its size. Tankage is 80 ( we have a capapacity of 120 with 2 additional bladders when cruising) water, 24 holding, and a small 20 for fuel. 3GMF gets 3/4 gallon / hr at 2700 average. Engine acess challanging but has three points ( under steps-front, in lazarette ( side as well as tranny and stuffing box, and under the sink. Boat has h/w heater, pressurized water as well as foot pumps for sea and fresh water ( helps save when cruising). Bilge of the k/c is very shallw and I would suggest getting dripless shaft. C&C35MKIII has a warm teak interior vs the white plastic feel. The wood is high quality and the joinery work is superb. She is the best of both worlds...fast as hell and comfortable cruising. Doing the Mac will be no problem with this boat and she will finsih high up in the standings with the correct crew, I single hand her a lot of the time with all lines lead aft. Can you tell I like our boat. Dave  

I have a keel model. I concur with Dave. Rod rigging needs attention every decade according to mfg. feel free to pm me.  

Thanks for the great info guys, much appreciated! chef2sail you mentioned it's cored. Is it balsa? Is it cored above and below the waterline? What about the deck? Has yours stayed dry over the years?  

I've been racing on one for almost 3 years. CB model. The term "swanky" comes to mind, as they're very nice inside. I see that folks have mentioned the windows. That's the only real problem my skipper buddy has had. That's mainly because he works hard at maintenance in the off-season.  

Bubblehead...whats the name of it. Never heard my boat refered to as swanky ( I lkust have too many things hanging off it now- Radar Pole, Davitd, TC antannae, Radar.), but shes fast, Hows does your place in your races? Against what? Hillenme- Mine is cored above and below the waterline not below. Every boat is different in terms of water/ moisture. Many boats are cored above the waterline. We have had absolutely no water or moisture intrude in the core or wettness at all. You have to take the correct precautions when putting thru hulls in or deck equipment. After drilling/ boring your hole you ferret out the basla ( end grain in C&C) in the space between the two gelcoat layers. I go back 1/2 inch around the whole diamater. Then you fill that with fiberglass/ epoxy. If you get a ding down to you core you follow the same procedure. I test the wetness with a moisture meter every couple months especially around thru hulls and anything that has bedding ( Hatches , nicrovent, clutches etc. Dave  

Thanks guys. Finally got to see her on Friday - it is a beautiful boat. One owner, well mentained, everything appeared to be in as good condition as it possibly could be for the age. It was definitely dry below, but I was concerned about cracks on deck. I noticed cracking in the gel-coat everywhere on deck. I walked around the deck and applied some pressure in a lot of places and never felt any give. How concerning is this on boat this age? I was otherwise blown away by the condition of the boat - it was wonderfully maintained (professionaly, at large yacht yard in Chicago).  

You need to get a moisture meter and have it run over various areas of the boat. Especially the topsodes. Check carefully around the anchor locker and lid and the windows. Even oif there is some elevated levels it doesnt diqualify it, it may just need to be looked at. We have gelcoat cracking at some of the areas the gelcoat was over 1" thick. It didnt flex there. The boat is also 30 years old. Glkad it was in good condition. Feel free to PM me once you get over 10 posts and one week, What are they asking for her. What type of equipment. Was it at Crowleys. Dave  

I would be surprised to see a boat of that age without some crazing, but if you could post some photos those who know might be able to throw in there judgement as to if it is structural or cosmetic. Some boats seem to be worse than others even of the same model and brand, as it can be caused by thickness and curing of the gelcoat. Was it "Slapshot?"  

Yes it was Slapshot... Are you familiar with the boat?  

Just saw the listing, looks good from the photos.  

The price is a fair one if it surveys well. Make sure they check the moisture meter, mast step and chainplates as this boat was raced ( I can tell by the tyoe of sails. Looks like it was maintained well too dave  

Keep us up to date with your search. Especially your experience at Crowley's. I will be searching soon for a used boat, and as they are a pretty big boat yard in Chicago maybe I might be working with their brokers.  

My experience so far with Crowley's has been great. Broker is a laid back guy, no pressure what so ever. There are several brokers there, mine was listed through Sailboat Sales Co., but I'll their boats show up on yachtworld.com as well.  

Hey Hillenme, Did you get to look at the 1982 34' C&C called "Black Dog"? Its also being sold at Crowleys. If you did, what condition was it in? That is quite a price difference, so i am curious. Keep us posted on your search. I am very interested.  

Turban, I did get a look at Blackdog. It was actually used occassionaly by the sailng school here in monroe harbor. I didn't take a long look at it - it is not in good shape. Brightwork all a mess, all this ugly navigation equipment stacked so high on the helm you can hardly see over it (might make sense for a curiser, but not this one). The sole below deck is new, looked like the only thing recently replaced. All the lines including sheets and even docklines are still out on deck getting rained on. Seemed like there was a lot of work to do, probably be a nice fixer-up, but I was in the market for something needing less off season work, at least right off the bat. There are a lot of nice boats for sail in Crowley's yard. Check out Sailboatsalesco.com.  

Dave, Thanks for all the great advice while I was checking this boat out! Just had the survey this morning. Moisture meter and thermal imaging all showed good readings, even around chainplates, anchor locker, etc. The only place the deck showed a little wet was on the sole in the cockpit. After really going through it with the surveryor I was impressed at the level of maintenace it has recieved. One thing the surveyor cautioned me about was the rod rigging. Said it should have a magnaflux inspection - and it's not cheap. Do you have rod rigging? Any experience that can speak to it's life expectancy? I haven't been told by the broker that it's ever been replaced, and he's made a point of showing me everything other little thing that has. Thanks! Erik  

Hillenme, Thank you for your reply. Its hard to tell by the pictures so I am glad you were able to give me a bit of a report.  

Yes I have rod rigging. I have replaced it once about 8years ago. Not cheap. The schedule for replacement for standing rigging is very 10 years. Lots ofeople go wy longer. How much does a magma flux test cost. Maybe put tht money word replacing it since its 30 years old probably. Congrats on the survey. Sounds like she will be yours. Dave  

chef2sail said: Yes I have rod rigging. I have replaced it once about 8years ago. Not cheap... Dave Click to expand...

My rigger told me that Navtec recommends that the ends be re headed every ten years. I had it done because I had no idea if it has ever been done. Sounds like you have a very solid boat!  

Spider cracking in gell-coat is a natural responce to a less stiffer material or more brittle material than the fiber glass matting below, flexing in a stress full enviroment. It dosent take away from the strenght oh the hull or deck.  

Can't speak for Chef, but I think re-heading ran about $2,000 on my 35/3 plus the charge to R&R.  

$7800  

jsaronson and chef2sail, thank you both for your responses. Those numbers are quite sobering.  

That's rod rigging though. Wire would be substantially cheaper.  

Hey guys closed on slapshot yesterday. Thanks for the all great advice. I think I'll def look into some maintenance on the rod rigging. The boat has always been in fresh water, guessing that environment is easier on the rigging...?  

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The design is the most critical part of your new sail. Ensuring the sail fits and performs its best is a must for our crew. The Precision Sails Design team are experts at their craft. Unlike other sail lofts all of our sailors work one-on-one with a designer to perfect their C&C 35 sail.

No Two C&C 35 Sails Are Alike

There are many factors that affect the performance and design of your sails. Location, sailing experience, and weather conditions all come into play when picking the perfect sail. Two mainsails made for two C&C 35’s in California and Florida will have different designs, sailcloth, and options based on what is best for the sailor.

Taking measurements is easy. All sailors work alongside our measurement team to measure and confirm their rig specs. This helps ensure your design is flawless and allows us to extend our Perfect Fit Guarantee to all of our sailors.

Discover the best cloth for your sailing needs, our sail details, or more about how Precision Sails is leading the sail-making industry with innovative new practices.

Proudly offering the largest selection of sailcloth in the industry, our team is always available to help you find your perfect sail. Whether you're a weekend sailor, coastal cruiser, or club racer our team is ready to walk you through the process.

Types of Sails

Precision Sail Loft specializes in producing headsails, mainsails, spinnakers, gennakers, and code zeros. So no matter the type of sail you’re looking for, we can help. Our sails are trusted by cruisers and racers alike from around the globe. Review the sail options and craftsmanship available to customize your dream sail.

Build & Process

Every sail we craft is produced to the highest standards with the best hardware, craftsmanship, and skill-set in the industry. Pair that with Precision Sails' approach to communication and your sailboat will be ready to set sail before you know it.

Unparalleled Commitment To Helping Sailors

As experts in design, communication, and production our team is ready to take on the task of making sails for your boat. Give us a call to get started.

“ I just received my asymmetrical spinnaker, with sock and turtle bag, along with a new 135 Genoa. The entire process was simple and both sales and the design team were in regular contact if there were any questions. The customer portal was easy to use and lets you keep track of where in the process your sails are. Great sails, great service -Graham Edwards (Facebook)

“ The whole team at Precision Sails was fantastic from start to finish. We’ve had a laminate main and genoa made so far and have a spinnaker on the way. They listened carefully to our needs and recommended a great sail cloth. We couldn’t have gotten more bang for our buck! -Noah Regelous (Google)

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“ we had good communication during the planning stages and the knowledgeable people at precision sails really got me fixed up good! The sails look and work fabulous! my boat sails better than it ever had! couldn’t be more pleased with the product AND the service!” -Fred Jelich (Facebook)

“ Our new furling jib for a Corsair 27 Had to be specially designed due to the height of the furler, but this was accomplished quickly and in short order we had our sail which fits beautifully and has a great shape. It’s everything we could have wanted, high tech design, thoughtfully executed and affordable.” -Nancy Y. (Yelp)

Request a C&C 35 Quote

Looking to buy a new headsail or mainsail for your C&C 35? Request a free quote from Precision Sails for a new custom sail. Our team will work with you to design the perfect sail for you.

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• Sailboat Guide

1987 C&C 35 MKIII

• Description

Seller's Description

$24,950 1987 C&C 35 Mk III Sailboat. Marvelous is my wonderful 1987 C&C 35. She is a great Bahamas-Caribbean-Chesapeake boat with a centerboard giving her the draft you want 4’2” up, 6’4” down. She also points like a C&C so she’s just an all around great sailing boat.

I set her up a year ago for cruising and spent three great months in the Bahamas, and then due to a job change, I had to move to the West coast.

Since it looks like it’ll be a few years here I’d rather pass her along to someone who can enjoy her than let her sit on the hard. Here’s some details and what I’ve done to her so far.

Equipment: Engine, Mechanical, Plumbing: Yanmar 3GM30F Diesel 3-cylinder 24hp good condition, reliable. -Fresh water strainer and Raycor fuel filter/water separator at front of engine for better access. Cabin heater runs off engine coolant. And dedicated fans 18 gallon fuel tank, newer plastic unit; Water tanks 1@15 gallon, 1@25 gallon Hot and cold pressure water, shower in head, HDPE holding tank, new Feb 2019: macerator, all new zero-permeability trident premium hoses. 10lb propane cylinder Worthington aluminum.

Galley: Hillerange 3-burner gimballed stove and oven, Large capacity icebox with drain pump Magma stainless 15 kettle propane grill Full supply of dishes, pots , Henkle knives, stainless cutlery, etc

Sails, Rigging, Canvas: Main: good condition, slab reefing system, two reef points, Lazy Jacks Genoa: 135% Genoa, Good condition, (smart furling shape system that has foam strips in leading edge), UV cover New running rigging 2019 for Main, Jib (2x), Spinnaker halyards, topping lift, mainsheet traveler, baby stay foot tension, vang, outhaul, reef 1, reef 2 Extra jib 135% North Sails, inspected and serviced by sailmaker Older Drifter, whisker pole Canvas sea anchor Parachute drogue Dodger, bimini: Dodger, Bimini in very good condition with clean and clear Isenglass. Zipper to intermediate panel (between dodger and bimini) needs repair

Ground tackle: New 2019 Rocna 44lb anchor and 225 5/16 HT US-made Titan chain on Lewmar Model 1000H electric windlass with remote control. #2 bow: Danforth 20lb bow anchor with chain and rope rode Stern Danforth 10lb stern anchor with short chain and rope rode Extra 75 5/16 HT US-made chain Extra 100 rope anchor rode;

Dinghies: 2, New 7.5 inflatable dinghy 3-ply PVC, and Hypalon 9 inflatable dinghy with wood floor

Instrumentation and Electronics: ACR EPIRB new in March 2019 Garmin GPSmap 546 chart plotter Raymarine EV100 Wheel Autopilot Raymarine ST60 Depth sounder, speed log Micronet MN30 wind indicator ICOM VHF radio mast head antenna True Power 1500 Watt modified sign wave inverter 20-Amp Pro Mariner permanent installed battery charger New industrial deep cycle house batteries (4x) Guest battery isolator Model 2404 Newer PanelTronics circuit breaker panels for AC and DC circuits 100 Watt solar panel Marine barometer (analog, made in England, compensated) Work Done 2019: Rebuilt rudder, New bearings, 2 coats ablative bottom paint

Additional Information: 2019 survey available Design specs at https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-35-3

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The C&C 35-3 (MKIII) is a completely new design that replaced C&C’s earlier 35 footer. Keel/CB version: Draft (BD): 6.40’/1.95m Draft (BU): 4.16’/1.27m Displacement: 12150 lbs./5511 kgs. Ballast: 5700 lbs./2586 kgs.

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1985 C&C 35-3

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