fishing boat yacht conversion

Christian & Co.

77′ custom steel trawler conversion.

STANDARD SURVEY

Client: Removed for Privacy “RP” Date of report: March 13th 2011

Our file #: 11 – 27152

This inspection was performed upon the request of the client listed above on March 7th 2011 while the vessel was afloat at Marina Puerto Los Cabos, San Jose del Cabo, BCS, Mexico and Mr. XXX attended.

VESSEL DESCRIPTION

Builder: Shipyard Molenaar at Zaandam Doc. #: “RP” HIN: “RP” Model: Converted fishing trawler Year: 1965 Name: “RP” Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, CA Length: 77.7’ * (23.5 meters) Draft: 3’ Beam: 19.6 Engines: Mitsubishi ’ * Weight: Unknown * U.S.C.G. Document

HULL & STRUCTURE

Keel & bottom: Steel construction, not inspected

Topsides & transom: Steel construction, canoe stern, dark blue painted hull

Decks & superstructure: Steel construction material, aluminum pilothouse, white painted superstructure, paint particle nonskid deck surface – gray and faux wood plank color

Deck hardware: Steel safety rail on upper deck, steel bulwarks on main deck, two sets of bow bits and two sets of stern bits with chocks, set of amidships bits on both sides, various watertight hatches

Longitudinals/stringers: Steel longitudinals

Athwartships/bulkheads/frames: Steel frames, ring bulkheads and full bulkheads, 4” frames on 14” centers (forward) Layout/interior components: Vessel boarded on either side through amidships bulwark boarding gates onto low side deck landings, forward from landings are watertight hatches into cabin spaces and steps up on both sides aft lead to aft deck. Aft deck has tender and crane, center line steps forward lead to upper deck, watertight hatch to starboard in superstructure leads into entryway to engine room. Ladder down into engine room and second door in entryway inboard leads to aft cabin space. Door from aft deck to interior space to port forward on aft deck. Main deck interior space aft has landing, door and steps down and aft to owner’s cabin; owner’s cabin has berth aft and ensuite head to port forward. Forward from landing is saloon, forward in saloon are wing doors to exterior side decks, galley to starboard forward, to port forward is ship’s office, two heads to starboard forward and anchor locker forward. Ladder from main deck to upper deck forward. Deck hatch and ladder to port aft of office leads to landing for crew cabins that are on both sides of landing, both crew cabins have bunk berths. Just aft of crew cabin hatch is similar hatch and ladder to guest cabins’ landing. Two guest cabins (one to port and one to starboard from landing) have bunk berths and ensuite heads. Pilothouse has helm forward, wing doors and aft door, dinette and modified Portuguese bridge forward (no safety rail on foredeck forward of forward gate).

Bilge: Minimal oil below engine

Comments: The vessel was inspected while afloat. The hull bottom was not inspected. The hull sides were visually inspected only. The vessel was port side to the dock and was not turned during the survey. The starboard side was inspected from the shore and by looking over the gunnel. The hull sides are in good structural and satisfactory – good cosmetic condition. The vessel is a converted steel working boat and thus does not have a “yacht like” finish. The deck and superstructure were visually inspected. The deck and superstructure are in good structural and satisfactory – good cosmetic condition. The deck hardware including safety rails, mooring devices and hatches was visually inspected and most hatches were opened and closed. Overall the deck hardware is in good – excellent condition. The structural reinforcements including the bulkheads, frames and longitudinals were visually inspected. The structural reinforcements appear to be in “as-built” condition. The bilge is holding minimal water and oil in the engine room. The interior cabin spaces are neat, clean and orderly. The interior of the vessel is in satisfactory – good cosmetic condition. The vessel has a very unusual layout due to the fact that it is a converted fishing trawler. The main deck level is functional and fairly normal for a yacht; the pilothouse and exterior decks are also fairly normal. Forward on the Portuguese bridge is an open area with no safety rail and camber designed to shed water. The guest and crew cabins are entered through raised watertight hatches and vertical ladders. The cabins have no port lights and all four cabins have bunk berths. The cabins themselves and entry into the cabins are not “yacht like” and are the most obvious usability issue with respect to this conversion (from working fishing boat to yacht).

Summary: Good

MACHINE SYSTEMS

Main engine: One Mitsubishi type S6R2M PTA, 427 KW/573h.p., 972 hours on engine room engine hour meter

Engine application: Diesel, 6 cylinders, turbocharged, fresh water cooled, dry exhaust

Serial Number: 21359

Transmissions: Reintjes, 55545, WAF440, ratio 3.952:1

External/peripherals: Suitable application, satisfactory installation, hydraulic PTO forward for steering and stabilizers, cooling external in integral “sea chest” to port in engine room

Engine controls: Hynautic hydraulic system with pilothouse and two exterior wing stations

Exhaust systems: Split dry system, engine exhaust splits into two discharge pipes, mule engine also discharges into starboard pipe, generator and diesel heater also discharge into port pipe

Propulsion gear/shaft logs: Steel propeller shaft, below waterline components not inspected, oil pressure seal

Steering system/rudder ports: Hydraulic system, two actuators, grease packed rudder seal

Ventilation: Forced air in engine room

Generator: Jelmer Valk on sound enclosure, no identification tag seen

External/peripherals: Suitable application, satisfactory installation, sound box

Through hulls & components: Steel through hulls, seacocks

Seawater systems: Metal pipes, flexible hoses

Bilge pumps: Electric pump with five valve manifold to starboard forward in engine room

Comments: The engine and transmission were visually inspected. This survey is not a mechanical survey; please consult with a qualified technician for greater detail as to the condition of the machine systems. The external surfaces and peripheral components of the engine and transmission appear good. The client reports that the engine runs well; it was not tested and no sea trial was performed. The exhaust system is properly arranged and installed. The steering system was visually inspected. The steering system appears suitable. The propulsion components were not inspected. The client reports that the propulsion components have an issue; there is vibration which limits the top end performance of the vessel. The conversion and refit of the vessel was accomplished using miscellaneous components. The engine was reportedly rebuilt approximately 1,500 hours prior to it being acquired for the conversion. It had been used in a barge. The cause of the vibration is beyond the scope of this survey. The engine room blower was energized. The generator was visually inspected. The client reports that the generator functions normally. There are crystalline deposits at an end cap on the generator. The through hulls were visually inspected. The through hulls are in good condition. The seawater systems were visually inspected. Overall, the seawater systems are in good condition. The bilge pump was not tested. There is corrosion at the bottom of the exhaust for the diesel heater; there is a corroded hose clamp and there are stains in this area indicative of a leak.

Fuel: Two integral steel forward tanks with 7000 liters capacity each, two steel tanks forward of engine room with 5000 liters capacity each, 24,000 liters total capacity

Fill & vent: Steel pipe deck fill fittings and vents

Feed & return: Bronze (apparently) tubes, flexible hoses at engines

Water: Two 2,500 liter plastic tanks between guest cabins and engine room, deck fill fittings on side decks, 5,000 liters total capacity

Holding: Steel tank below crew cabins, unknown capacity

Comments: The fuel system including the tanks, fill, vent and feed lines was visually inspected as installed. Where visible the fuel system components are in satisfactory – good condition. The condition and age of the fuel (and water) and the integrity of the tanks (fuel, water and holding) is beyond the scope of this survey. The water pressure system functioned normally. There are tin cans installed below various fittings to catch leaks. There are cans located below fuel fittings forward in the engine room. Components such as fuel hoses are labeled fuel hose, but are not labeled U.S.C.G. type A1, an American standard. The restoration of the vessel was accomplished in Holland.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

AC system: European system with transformer, 230V/single phase and 380/400V/three phase – 50 Hz ship’s systems

DC system: Twelve 2 cell AGM and two larger 12 volt gel batteries to starboard forward in engine room, 24 volt system, two 12 volt gel batteries below pilothouse dinette seat

Wiring: Various type multi-strand wire, not American standard type wires

Circuit protection: Panels forward in engine room include DC volt and ammeters, three AC ammeters, AC voltmeter and AC hertz meter, sub panel to starboard in pilothouse

Comments: The electrical system including the shore power cord, shore power inlet, batteries, wiring, circuitry components and circuit protection equipment was visually inspected and most components were tested. Overall the electrical system is in good condition. The condition of the batteries is beyond the scope of this inspection. The client stated that at least one battery requires replacement. The vessel uses welding cable extensively. Wires in the engine room are well organized, bundled and routed; however they are secured with plastic tie wraps. The lights in the landing areas for the guest and crew cabins function intermittently. The client has converted the transformer to an Asea converting transformer which allows the vessel to utilize any type of shore power and retain its European electrical system. Components aboard the vessel are “European” type.

SAFETY AND LIFE SAVING

Portable fire extinguishers: One in engine room entry, one in owner’s cabin, one in galley, one in both guest cabins, one in both crew cabins, not American type

Fixed fire system: Fire pump with one hose in engine room, fire alarm system

Flotation devices: Six adult PFDs (not American type), three life rings (two with MOB lights)

Horn/distress flares: Flares aboard (expired 2006), sound signaling device not noted

Navigational/anchor lights: Lights on a mast on top of pilothouse and typical/international light scheme (not tested)

Anchor & ground tackle: Two Navy type anchors in two anchor hawes pipes, 300’ and 600’ anchor chain

Other equipment: Two 8 person life rafts – service due 04/11

Comments: Safety equipment for fire fighting protection appears satisfactory. There is no fixed fire extinguishing system in the engine room. The portable fire extinguishers are not approved by the U.S.C.G. (currently irrelevant). Personal flotation devices appear suitable for near coastal use; they are not U.S.C.G. approved. Current distress signal flares are not aboard. We did not note the existence of a sound signaling device. The navigational and anchor lights are properly arranged and installed. The ground tackle including the anchor and rode was visually inspected as installed and appears satisfactory. The entire length of the anchor rode was not inspected and should be inspected prior to use.

Summary: Satisfactory – Good

ACCESSORIES

General equipment: Victron 3-phase 24 volt 100 amp and 24 volt 50 amp battery chargers, Victron 24 volt 1600 VA and 24 volt 5000 Va inverters, active fin stabilizers, 4 cylinder diesel (mule) engine driving a hydraulic pump for the bow thruster, windlass and crane, engine room engine instrumentation includes tachometer, hour meter, temperature and two pressure gauges, water heater, hand pumps for fuel, air compressor, Cerac diesel boiler type ship’s heating system, pressure air and water for heads, ASEA multi-function transformer, engine exhaust temperature gauge, Bostrom pilothouse helm chair, two lifting monitors for electronics, Furuno GP-31 GPS Navigator, Furuno FS-1550 SSB, Sailor RT2048 VHF, Sailor RT4822 VHF DSC, Robertson AP35 autopilot, Robertson FU35 steering jog stick controller, Simrad EQ32, two handheld radios, pilothouse hardtop mounted compass (with viewing overhead in pilothouse), Furuno FR2110 radar, Simrad IS15 wind, Furuno GP-31 GPS Navigator, Furuno NX-300 Navtex unit, pilothouse engine instrumentation includes two tachometers, three temperature, three oil pressure, two DC digital voltmeters, spotlight, flood lights, computer, Hynautic hydraulic controls for bow thruster and windlass, four pneumatic windshield wipers, pilothouse dinette, orange hard hat, pilothouse battery charger, portable boarding ladder, wing station rudder angle indicators and thruster/windlass controls, deck prisms, Avon rigid hulled inflatable with HIN AVBGBY56C393 and equipped with a 15 hp 4-stroke Yamaha outboard engine, hydraulic tender crane, side boarding gates, Sharp TV, owner’s head has head, sink and shower enclosure, scuba gear, Wempe ship’s clock, barometer and thermometer/hygrometer, Sharp TV in saloon, entertainment system, two saloon tables, sofas and a bench seat, saloon window blinds, Siemens refrigerator, Samsung microwave oven, Siemens microwelle plus oven, 4-burner electric stove, galley sink, day head, main deck second head with head, sink, shower and tub, Yaesu FT-897 HF transceiver, SCS PTC-11 USB pactor modem, laptop computer, printer, clothes washer and dryer, hydraulic windlass, guest cabins have bunk berths and ensuite heads (with heads, sinks and shower enclosures), water pressure system with pump and accumulator tank, electric waste discharge pump, hydraulic bow thruster (not accessed or tested), freezer, two shower pumps

The vessel was originally constructed in 1965 and used as a Northsea’s fishing trawler. The vessel suffered a catastrophic loss which was reportedly caused by the failure of a fishing boom, causing the vessel to roll, capsize and sink. The incident resulted in the loss of life. The vessel was subsequently salvaged and purchased by the previous owner, who converted it from a commercial vessel to a long range cruising yacht. The wheelhouse is aluminum; the engine is a diesel inboard engine, the vessel also has a “mule” diesel engine which powers the hydraulic system and a diesel generator. The refurbishment of the vessel was completed in 2007. The client provided an ultra sound inspection which was performed at the time of his purchase of the vessel in April 2010 in Enkhuizen, Holland. He also reviewed an ultra sound from five years prior; several areas of plating had apparently been replaced as the recent ultra sound revealed thicker plates. Overall the plate thickness is good. The client drove the vessel to Southhampton, England, the vessel was shipped to Palm Beach, Florida and then to Manzanillo, Mexico. The client drove the vessel from Manzanillo, Mexico to Puerto Vallarta and subsequently to San Jose del Cabo, Mexico, where it was inspected for this appraisal. Since purchase the client has upgraded the vessel with the installation of an Asea electrical transformer/converter, which allows him to utilize the existing electrical system with virtually any of the common power supplies throughout the world. The vessel is basically sound and suitable for its intended purpose as a long range cruising vessel.

Overall Summary: Good

ACTUAL CASH VALUE — $775,000

The actual cash value is the value that our research approximates the selling price of this vessel should be, at the time and place of our inspection. Consideration is given to vessel’s condition, geographic location, published listings and guides, comparable sales and listings, and market conditions. The value does not include maintenance costs, storage or tax.

Standard Form Key: All systems are rated based upon their appearance, ratings include: Not examined, Not applicable, Faulty, Marginal, Satisfactory, Good, Excellent.

RECOMMENDATIONS

1. The client intends to bring the vessel to the United States; federally required “carriage items” will be needed. These include fire extinguishers, personal flotation devices, distress signal flares, sound signaling device, oil placard, trash placard. 2. Determine the source of the vibration reported while underway and address appropriately. 3. We strongly encourage replacing the plastic tie wraps used to secure wires in the engine room with metal (adel) clamps. 4. Service to eliminate any leaks above the various tin cans in several areas of the vessel. 5. Replace the battery which is reportedly at the end of its service life. 6. Address the corrosion on the bottom of the exhaust component for the diesel heater. Service to eliminate the apparent leaks near this component, clean stains to allow detection of any future leaks. 7. The vessel uses welding cable. While welding cable is an excellent current carrying conductor, it is expressly prohibited by A.B.Y.C. recommendations and has deficiencies which reduce its suitability for use aboard a vessel. Either replace the welding cable or carefully monitor and replace as needed.

1. Address the crystalline deposits on an end cap on the generator. 2. Service and prove the guest and crew cabin landing lights functional; they are intermittently functional. 3. The electrical system aboard the vessel will prove inconvenient when components require replacement in America.

This survey sets forth the condition of the vessel and components, as specifically stated only, at the time of inspection and represents the surveyor’s honest and unbiased opinion. The submitting of this report should not be construed as a warranty or guaranty of the condition of the vessel, nor does it create any liability on the part of Christian & Company or the individual surveyor. No part of the vessel was disassembled or removed and no assumptions should be made as to the condition of concealed components. Specifics were obtained from sources available at the time of inspection and are believed correct, but are not guaranteed to be accurate.

Christian & Company, Marine Surveyors, Inc.

________________________________ March 13th 2011 By: Mr. Kells Christian, Surveyor Date S.A.M.S. – A.M.S. # 301

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7 Unique Liveaboard Boats For On-Water Living

By Rob Bowman | Posted On Nov 13, 2018 Updated On Jun 03, 2020

As coastal cities become more crowded every day and the cost of living continues to increase, the concept of buying a liveaboard boat as your home has grown in popularity. The idea of being able to wake up every day to the sound of the waves splashing against your boat or being able to move to a secluded cove for the night is romantic and intriguing. There are many kinds of liveaboard boats for sale and practically almost any yacht with a cabin, a galley, and a head can be considered for living on board. However, some yachts distinguish themselves by offering more space, amenities, and home-like designs for more practical on-water living.

Many houseboats for example are like "homes on a hull", are somewhat boxy in shape, but offer massive living spaces similar to a traditional house. These boats are generally meant to be kept in the protected waterways and not the open ocean. Trawler Yachts are a popular style of liveaboard boats for the owner that wants to travel extensively while living on it as well. They offer a hull design and sturdy construction that can keep your on-water home from rocking or swaying too much. Then there is the luxury motor yacht which is capable of doing it all, but comes with a hefty price tag.

With over 150 yacht brokers nationwide, United Yacht Sales lists some unbelievably interesting and unique boats with our wide network of clients. Sometimes these listings include liveaboard boats that were built strictly for on-water living and others are converted cruise ships for example. Below are 7 very unique liveaboard boats currently for sale on the market today from 40 to 220 feet! Don't see anything you like? Give our home office a call at (772) 463-3131 and we will connect you with a broker in your area that can find the right liveaboard boat for your budget and needs.

 "Global" - 2007 Shadow Marine 220' Allure - Asking $8,499,000

United Yacht Broker: Christopher Cooke (772) 631-7702

"Global" is a true combination of elegance, utility, and luxury incorporated to form an unprecedented, evolutionary step in a large, liveaboard pleasure craft. The designers of Global aimed to put safety and seaworthiness in the forefront. Built by Shadow Marine in 2007 this vessel coined the phrase “Sport Utility Vessel” of the sea. Global was built to be the lead ship of the evolutionary ALLURE Class and was built by her original owner to travel Any Ocean, Anywhere, Anytime!

Each of her 5 decks has been carefully laid out and demonstrates the ultimate in elegance with practicality, utility, and a comfort. Four upper levels provide spacious, well-appointed areas for lounging and entertaining along with 6 luxurious staterooms. Her lower deck combines serviceability with crew comfort, so crucial for morale and retention. Key features of M/Y Global’s interior include; 6 staterooms with private balconies, a sky lounge offering panoramic views, a fully equipped workout facility, and a movie theater featuring the latest in automated audio and video technologies. A dining area that lets you watch a helicopter land and take off from the deck are among the features making this converted vessel stand out. There’s also a 65" TV in the theater on the lower deck, just forward of the galley.

2015 Custom Canadian S&E 188' Superyacht - Asking $4,999,000

United Yacht broker: Daniel Voorhees , (206) 407-6411

This 188-foot Custom Canadian S&E super yacht is the ultimate liveaboard yacht with 34 staterooms and room for 22 crew+. This yacht can safely and comfortably transport, 70+ luxury passengers worldwide or cruise by yourself and sleep in a different room every night! The entire interior and exterior is in top condition. Most staterooms have not been slept in since the complete refit and remodel in 2015/2016. She has fresh paint and launched in 2017. She is truly turnkey ready for private yachting or charter service. Owners will love the multi-level layout with assorted socializing areas and room for activities. There are multiple bar and dining spaces with ample deck and lounge areas throughout. If you are looking for the ultimate liveaboard yacht and have money to burn, this could be your best option.

"Discovery" - 1962 Romsdal 100' Expedition Yacht - Asking $1,990,000

United Yacht broker: John Peterson (910) 546-5760

The name ROMSDAL has always been synonymous with North Sea trawlers, yachts built for research, and strong North Sea fishing boats. Originally built in 1962 as a research vessel, DISCOVERY underwent a complete rebuild and refit from 1998-2000 and has become one incredible liveaboard yacht. The refit was massive and reported costs exceeded 12 million dollars. DISCOVERY is an aesthetically pleasing yacht that shows outstanding workmanship and stunning craftsmanship throughout. The interior wood is exquisite and the layout is perfect for luxurious accommodations.

Refit to be a gentleman’s expedition yacht the hull was flared and painted with Sterling Flag Blue paint. During the refit a new rolled aluminum superstructure was built and installed using bimetal transition inserts. The superstructure is white. Teak trim was added producing the true yacht finish one would expect. The decks were covered with teak and show little wear. The interior design and layout was designed by an architect while the interior workmanship was overseen by an interior designer. The results are simply stunning. With the finest craftsmanship available, the interior has varnished mahogany wood work and trim, madronal burl woodwork and trim, granite, marble, jade, and exquisite fabrics. "Discovery" is an excellent option for the owner that wants a liveaboard yacht with the versatility and capability to cruise long distances.

"Elena Queen of Arts" - 1982 AC Mcleod 79' Custom Sternwheeler House Barge - Asking $599,000

United Yacht broker: Mordy Miltz (516) 606-1282

Unique opportunity to own a one-of-a-kind privately owned, self-propelled stern-wheeler, river boat replica house barge that can easily be used as a liveaboard boat. Timeless appealing classic meets function and luxury. “Elena Queen of Arts” boasts an open & airy layout throughout. Well-appointed with 3 staterooms, 2.5 heads & captains berth, large galley, salon, dinette, library, laundry room, bow seating areas, large upper deck with hot tub, custom woodwork throughout and so much more. Some features include, Young Chang grand piano, projector screen, custom carpentry, cast iron propane fireplaces, coffered ceilings, granite countertops, radiant heat, large sliding windows, 4 entryways, recessed lighting, and many other custom features. Her drivetrain is powered by a pair of 250hp Detroit Diesel 6-71 Naturals with PTO driven counter-rotating stern wheels, dual Detroit Diesel 4-71 40kW 3 phase generators, diesel fed boiler, hydraulic dual action cylinders operating a quad rudder system and pneumatic throttle controls.

“Elena Queen of Arts” was commissioned for the late owner of Aflac Insurance John Amos and built by AC McLeod with design cues to replicate the famous Delta Queen. She would make for an excellent waterfront home, floating hotel, B&B or crew vessel. She must be seen to appreciate, call today to schedule your showing.

"Banshee" - 1996 Custom North Sea 58' Trawler - Asking $340,000

United Yacht broker: Rick Hoffman , (425) 405-0132

This 58 Custom steel North Sea Trawler is truly the ultimate bluewater passagemaker perfect for living on the water. The Banshee was incredibly well-designed by her only owner and has been extremely well maintained. She has a single Cummins 300HP motor and is keel cooled with approx. 100 gallons OFM fluid in full length keel 50% anti-freeze, 50% water. The exhaust is water cooled and goes through an aqua lift and out stern. She has a state of the art bridge with full electronics, autopilot and radar.

Her full beam salon includes plenty of seating and great views through her many windows. She is warmly heated by her full-sized Dickerson furnace with oven for those colder NW nights. Her galley has full sized appliances with trash compactor that run directly off her generator or the large inverter system. It has oak floors and Corian countertops. She has a master stateroom with plenty of storage, a full island queen berth and a private master head with full bath. Her guest stateroom is also very roomy with full island queen berth, a single berth and its own private full-sized head. She has a huge engine room that also houses a complete shop area with spacious work area and a lot of storage. Her elegant spiral wood stair case leads up to the drive station with even more seating and the table converts to a double bed. Whether your dreams point you to the San Juans or San Carlos, this spectacular long-range trawler will get you there safely, in comfort and style, for all your liveaboard boat needs.

"Luxuria" - 2017 Global Boatworks 46' Luxury Liveaboard House Yacht - Asking $1,500,000

United Yacht broker: Ron Housman , (617) 549-4123

Extraordinary opportunity to own a state of the art waterfront home and yacht-like motor vessel at the same time! Luxuria is an exceptional liveaboard boat that offers style, luxury, and lots of on-water views. Built to a standard far exceeding most production yachts, Luxuria offers sophisticated interior design, mobility, high efficiency and durability all in one low maintenance luxurious package. Perhaps best of all - LUXURIA = INCOME! Already proven to fetch $1,100/ night without any aggressive marketing, Luxuria will provide her first owner the ability to offset between 70-90% of costs of ownership. 

2006 Skipperliner 40' Liveaboard Houseboat - Asking $169,900

United Yacht broker: Ted Gates (239) 849-5357

The Owner ordered and built this liveaboard vessel from Skipperliner in LaCrosse WI. This houseboat was designed and used for hosting dinners/social events. Lower level is all floor to ceiling patio door style windows with slide opening doors on each side and the bow. Large center island and a full galley, with full size appliances, to the aft is set up for food prep and serving. Multiple oversized marine AC units which are zoned to keep lower level very efficiently cooled. Westerbeke generator. Head on aft deck, circular staircase on bow, staircase on aft deck. The top deck is wide open for either banquet style seating or whatever you would desire. In addition there is a slide off the back for fun and entertainment!

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Convert a 54ft fishing trawler into a blue-water motor-sailer

• August 20, 2021

Liveaboards Dave and Hazel McCabe spent five years converting a wooden trawler into a motor-sailer.

When my partner, Dave, has a mad idea, he normally finds a way to make it happen. “I’d like to sail across the Atlantic,” he declared one day. “Uh-oh!” I thought.

We were already liveaboards – we had a motor-cruiser that was suitable for winter jaunts down the French Canals and earned us a living as a passenger ferry across the River Exe. But it was hardly suitable for an ocean crossing.

We needed something bigger, sturdier and, most importantly, with sails.

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I had no experience with boat renovations but Dave had rebuilt several wooden boats, including Sea Dream , the 40ft ferry boat that we now lived and worked on.

We decided to look for an old fishing boat to convert to a motor-sailer. There was a lovely old Scottish trawler in our home port of Topsham but he wanted more money for it than we could afford.

Newlyn was supposed to be full of decommissioned fishing boats so we set off in our little silver Metro to investigate. We drove miles around Cornish country lanes but there was nothing in Newlyn and no new leads. After a seemingly fruitless search, we stopped in a café to regroup.

On the table was a FreeAds magazine and, flicking through, Dave spotted an advert for a 50ft decommissioned fishing boat sitting in Polruan. After a quick phone call we found ourselves on the last ferry of the day, with just time for a quick look on board.

Heads hunched under the deck, we looked around the dark, damp boat. All the running gear had been taken off to go on the owner’s newly built steel fishing boat. There was nothing inside but peeling paint and it certainly didn’t have the headroom Dave had said was essential. But as the ferry pulled away, he gazed back at the boat. “She’s got lovely lines,” he murmured, and I knew the decision was already made!

We put an offer to the seller. He didn’t accept it immediately, but after two weeks with no other interested parties, he took it. Within a day, we’d borrowed a friend’s powerful Lochin motor boat, and were towing our new purchase back to the Exe.

ROS AILITHER SPECIFICATIONS Built 1954 in Mooneys Yard, Killybegs Construction larch on oak Length: 50ft 0in / 15.24m Beam: 15ft 0in / 4.57m Draught: 6ft 6in / 1.97m Weight: 38 tonnes Engine: Gardner 6LXB, 180hp Rig: Gaff ketch Sail area: approx. 1,200sq ft / 111.5sq m

Now the fun began – where to start?

The boat came with huge legs so we bolted them on and put her aground in Hannaford’s Quay, a traditional spot for boat repairs. While Dave started removing all the big steel hatches and metalwork on deck, he set me up with a bottle of gas and a triangular scraper – burning all the paint off the hull. It seemed an impossible task with such a tiny implement, but bit by bit, we got the whole hull down to bare wood, inside and out.

Compared to Sea Dream , the timbers on this boat were massive. The frames were 3in thick, every 15in along the hull. The beam shelf alone was 8in deep. Some of the inside faces of the frames were going a bit ‘fluffy’ but when we sanded them back a little, the wood underneath was surprisingly solid. We doubled up 5 or 6 frames that were looking a bit questionable, but all in all, it seemed like we had ourselves a fairly solid boat!

We liberally dosed everything with a good quality wood treatment then coated the outside with aluminium primer and painted the bottom with antifoul . On went a coat of undercoat then a light blue topcoat. Suddenly, she looked like a real ship again.

We were fitting in the scraping and painting around running our ferry – which ran daily at lunchtimes and evening trips three or four times a week. We could squeeze in an hour or two of work in the mornings and three or more hours in the afternoons. Of course, the tides changed constantly so sometimes we had to row to the boat in a dinghy, other times we had to walk out in wellies through the mud. There were times when I found myself perched up a ladder, only to look down and find the water lapping around the bottom of the ladder!

Safer berth

It wasn’t safe to leave the boat aground on legs forever – it can get extremely rough in Topsham in winter storms – so we needed to organise a mooring for the boat. We tried a drying mooring first but the boat rolled over at an alarming angle – possibly endangering the boat itself and definitely not good for working on. Thankfully, with a little persuasion on Dave’s part, we were given permission for a fore-and-aft mooring off Turf Locks, in the only spot deep enough for her to float at all tides.

Our next job was the engine. Dave had already decided he wanted a Gardner diesel – old-fashioned but reliable workhorses that can go on for years. We heard of a pair that had come out of a pleasure boat in Torbay. One had a broken crank so the owner had simply taken them both out and bought two brand new engines. We got the pair for a fair price, and Dave soon had the good engine turning over. The broken one still had plenty of good bits to keep for spares.

Dave cleaned up the good one, degreased it and sprayed it red. We had it running briefly at the local boatyard, before they craned it into the old engine bay (near the bows of the boat) and it sat there, wrapped up in plastic, until further notice.

Back on the mooring, we started to rip off the top planks which cladded the bulwarks. Dave decided to raise the decks 18in up to the top of the existing gunwale to give us full head height across the whole boat, and eliminate a common point of rot on boats like this – where the frames go through the decks.

We spent several hot days bent over the gunwales, levering the old planks off with a variety of huge crowbars. Once off, we could put the new beam shelf in place, made from 5in x 2in lengths of oak. With no planks on the outside, we were able to use the frames to clamp to, and let the oak bend round slowly over several days. This is where green oak was a bonus, as it’s more supple and less likely to crack. The stern of the boat was the trickiest, with a surprising bend around its canoe stern.

By this point, we’d done as much as we could on the mooring in the middle of the river, and needed to come alongside to get all the hefty materials on and off. We towed Ros Ailither back up to Topsham Quay, and tied her alongside next to the Lighter Inn. We built a scaffold structure around the boat and lashed on a makeshift tent from old lorry tarps so we could work through the winter months.

The next job was to take off the old deck planking and put in new deck beams. We did this little by little so the boat would keep her shape. Dave prised up sections of the old Douglas Fir deck and left the old deck beams underneath. We cut new beams from 3in oak, placed them on the brand new beam shelf and bolted through the frames. Only then did Dave take out the old beams from underneath.

I’d carefully measured all of the boat’s vital statistics and drawn her to scale. It was fun to draw out all the possibilities for the layout inside.

It all depended where the engine went. Originally, it sat near the bows, with a 25ft long prop shaft, but that took up a lot of room and split the living accommodation, not to mention the cost of a new shaft that size. So putting the engine at the stern would maximise the living space.

Engine enigma

Dave wasn’t yet sure how to mount the running gear and was looking into the possibility of using a hydraulic drive or electric motor. One thing he knew was that he wanted to be able to take the engine out if necessary, having seen a friend have to literally chop a hole in the deck to get a broken engine out. So we designed a big opening in the centre of the boat, slightly smaller than the old fish hold cover. The central part of the engine room bulkhead and the staircase were also made removable in case we needed to get the engine out.

Slowly but surely, one beam at a time, we got all the old deck up and bolted in new deck beams at the top of the bulwarks. We covered the beams with 12mm Robbins elite marine plywood – guaranteed for 15 years. On top of the plywood , we laid 1in planks of iroko, bedded down with bitumen paint. We routered the edges of the planks with a V-shape for caulking and filled the screw holes with wooden plugs, all turned to match the grain. It really was a labour of love, but it looked beautiful.

After the winter, we towed the boat back to her summer mooring and work continued afloat. The difference with the headroom below was incredible. The space looked vast, we couldn’t ever imagine filling it all!

We started with the bulkheads, separating off a big double cabin for ourselves at the bows. Behind our cabin, we made a bathroom on the port side and a spare cabin on the starboard side, with two bunks although it was put into use as a temporary tool store.

We didn’t want to build with cheap pine and end up redoing it all in a couple of years’ time when it had started to rot, so the bulkheads were made with solid 3in x 3in oak uprights and ¾in plywood let in. We channelled all the wires so they’d be hidden but accessible, and we labelled each wire.

One of the first things to go in was a bath. This may sound like the ultimate luxury on a boat but a bathtub is also practical – it makes a perfect shower tray, is ideal for soaking and washing clothes, or for warming up anybody with hypothermia!

Then we needed big enough water tanks to fill the bath. We got two stainless steel water tanks made (600lt each) to fit in the bows. Each tank was fully baffled to minimise sloshing at sea, had its own inspection hatch, filler, breather and feed pipe with gate valve. This meant that in case of a problem we could isolate one tank and just use the other. After bolting them in place, we covered them both in expanding foam and built an oak framework for a bed on top.

At the same time as the water tanks, we also had a black water tank made, and plumbed this in with a new Lavac toilet. For hot water, we put a 9.2kW Webasto diesel heater in the engine room, which heated several radiators and a large hot water cylinder in the spare cabin. A big 24V Jabsco water pump under the floor ran the whole system.

Throughout this time, we were slowly putting in the top three planks of the hull, where the bulwarks used to be. We bought seasoned larch for this job. It didn’t seem feasible to steam-bend them on a floating mooring so we tried to bend them round dry. We fitted one end and nailed it in, then over a week or two, slowly brought the other end of the plank in with clamps and tourniquets, nailing as we went.

With winter coming again, we needed to seal the three gaping holes in the deck. The companionway would ultimately be inside a wheelhouse so we made a temporary water-stop around the edge and made a hinged plywood ‘door’. For the two hatches, we bought wide boards of iroko and made chunky dovetail-jointed hatches, rebated into the holes. It took a lot of fine-chiselling to get all four joints to marry up perfectly, but it looked very professional when it was done.

At this point, we felt we were slowly getting there. We had a watertight deck. We had a bedroom and a bathroom, heating and hot running water. We hung a rug at the entrance to the ‘hallway’ to separate the clean cabins forward from the workspace and sawdust in the back of the boat. When the curtain was tied back, we could sit in bed and survey our whole ship. It was a grand feeling!

We celebrated with a little Christmas party on board. We stocked up on beers and put up a small tree. We bought some mince pies and invited a few friends round. With some tinsel wrapped around the deck beams and a table of nibbles on a work-mate, the boat looked quite festive.

Around this time, we got a phone call from a friend to inform us that chandler Sowester Simpson-Lawrence was about to go bust. They were selling off as much as they could at a huge discount so Dave raced up with his chequebook. He came back with a 24V fridge and an electric anchor winch. I’d made a request for a cooker with at least three rings after living aboard with two rings for years. He went one better and came back with two 2-ring cookers!

So the galley was designed around these twin cookers. Dave fabricated a stainless steel casing to house the gimballing cookers. The hard bit was trying to strike a level line along the length of the boat. She was sitting bows up on the mud, and even when floating, probably wasn’t at quite the same level as she would be when fully rigged.

Either side of the cookers, we built a framework for a U-shaped galley. The worktops themselves were made of 2in solid oak. These have subsequently shrunk a little as they have dried out but this all adds to the character!

Jobs large and small

It was my job to make the cupboards and drawers underneath. I thrived making these fiddly, detailed bits, while Dave revelled in putting in the ‘big stuff’. I made a cupboard above the sink with carved rope-effect supports while Dave made a chunky oak staircase to replace the ladder down the hatch. I made a mug and wine-glass holder while Dave made a double thickness, insulated bulkhead to separate off the engine room at the stern.

During the summer we turned our attention to the wheelhouse. We wanted it to be wide enough so the back bunk could be used as a bed to sleep on at sea. We wanted a decent chart table on one side and a large dash for instruments on the other, but we also didn’t want to just make a ‘square box’.

I drew out some designs on paper but wasn’t sure how they’d translate in practice. We bolted down the base shape onto the deck then held up lengths of oak at various angles to see what it looked like from a distance in the dinghy. Once we were happy, we erected the bare oak framework. We cut oak beams for the roof, and covered them with plywood, coated with epoxy and paint. We clad the lower sides of the wheelhouse with plywood and offcuts from the iroko deck, made doors either side, and wooden-framed 10mm toughened windows.

The next job was to give the boat propulsion. In the end, Dave decided to install a V-drive, which meant the engine could sit right out of the way, above the prop shaft. He sourced a V-box from BPM in Italy, and had an intermediary shaft made to join up with the small section left on board, this was a whopping 3.25in thickness. He got an old four-bladed propeller from C&O Marine, which they cut down to size, and had it re-pitched to suit the engine, gearbox and V-drive. It was still an immense 48in diameter.

The old steel fuel tanks were craned out and four new stainless steel tanks made to fit either side of the engine, with a total capacity of 2,200gal. Again, each tank had a big inspection panel on top, sight gauge on the front, and a drain on the bottom to siphon off water and sludge. Dave had encountered many boats that had got in trouble from ‘diesel bug’ bacterial growth in their fuel tanks, so the drains were a must-have.

Once the tanks were installed, Dave manoeuvred the engine to its final position in the stern. He installed bearers to mount the V-box on, and lined it up with the new intermediary prop shaft. Having bolted a heavy-gauge square stainless steel beam to the engine room deck beams, he was able to winch the engine up in the air. Once he was happy that the engine was lined up with the V-box, he welded new steels in position under the engine and bolted the engine down to these new beds.

Steering system

We still had no proper steering system, so to move the boat we had to use our emergency tiller. This slotted over the top of the rudder post through a removable deck fitting. I still remember the look of joy on Dave’s face when we finally got the old boat moving under her own steam.

We headed triumphantly up the river to Topsham and beyond, turning around just past the M5 motorway bridge. The tiller bar worked well (with the Morse control lever lashed to it), but only with very minimal power. If you put on any more power the rudder was pushed straight, and you had to use extreme caution when going astern!

We were given a brass steering wheel by a friend. Dave managed to get a second-hand hydraulic steering pump and bought a new hydraulic ram to match it. The ram was the same size as the original so most of the fixings were still there, even though the original steering had been taken off. This proved to be a much easier way of controlling the boat than the tiller!

Things were taking shape below. Opposite the galley, we made an L-shaped seating area. We got new foam cut to shape, and my mum made us cushion covers. A solid oak table-top was mounted on two stainless steel poles that we could lower to make an extra double berth if needed. Our ‘workshop’ was turning into a homely space to relax.

Next, the mast and spars. We’d originally planned to put the mainmast in a tabernacle on deck. However, everyone we talked to said that the best and strongest solution was a keel-mounted mast, and we slowly came around to that thinking. We cut a hole in our lovely new deck and made shaped oak pieces for a deck collar. We strengthened underneath the deck with a huge piece of oak tied to the beams with box section stainless steel, and made a wooden ‘socket’ to receive the mast.

We sourced some lovely straight Douglas Fir in our local woodlands but had to search further afield for a bigger tree for the main mast – it needed to be a foot wide for the first 40ft all the way up to the hounds. We were put in touch with a landowner in Cheriton Bishop, who had some slow-growing woods of spruce and we found the perfect tree in the centre of his forest.

These tree trunks were delivered by lorry. We rolled them into the river at Topsham and towed them behind the ferry across to the Turf where we hauled them onto the pierhead at high tide, put ropes around one end of each trunk, and literally dragged them up the garden to a quiet spot to do the work.

Round tree, square mast

We began with the smaller, easier spars. Bizarrely, the best way to make a round spar from a round tree is to make it square first. We literally chain-sawed the four edges off square. The rough saw marks are planed off and the taper at the top of the mast above the hounds is marked in and cut on all sides.

You then cut off the four corners, then the eight corners, and finally the last sixteen edges. At this point, you have a fairly round spar, but it still takes another hour or two of sanding – first with a belt sander (carefully) and then by hand to get it lovely and smooth. Finally the finished spar is treated with several applications of a potent mixture of paraffin and boiled linseed oil. Then repeat!

It was a different proposition to cut the biggest tree with a chainsaw – when following the line on top, any difference in the angle of the chainsaw blade could mean several inches difference at the bottom of the cut. Dave could only see the top line so my job was to point one way or the other if the saw blade was moving out of line on the bottom. I clearly remember the bitter east wind as Dave cut down the length of the tree four times. It literally took all day to chop the ‘square’, leaving us with a mountain of sawdust!

Once made, we had to get all the new spars across the river to the crane. Back down the garden they were carried one by one, all except the main mast, which was still too heavy for just a couple of people.

Then one evening, as we waited for our ferry passengers from the evening trip to Turf, I saw Dave’s eyes light up. We had a big group of people here and I knew exactly what he was thinking! Before I could talk them out of it, a group of Morris dancers (average age 60+) merrily picked up the mast between them, carried it down the garden and set it down gently on trestles on the pierhead.

To top it all off, one of them even climbed up and danced a little jig on the top of the mast.

Mast fittings

There was a surprising amount of metalwork to make before getting the masts up – different sized mast bands with two or four eyes, boom ends, gaff jaws and saddle, not to mention the chain plates, bowsprit fittings and mizzen tabernacle on the boat itself. These all had to be fabricated, galvanised and attached in position before hoisting the masts.

Finally, the masts got craned into position, the main fitting snugly through the hole in the deck and the mizzen into its tabernacle. We used temporary rope rigging to hold them in place, until Dave could make proper galvanised rigging.

I’d originally planned to make the sails myself, but Dave got chatting to a sailmaker friend who had a spare mainsail that just might fit. It was a bit on the small side but actually didn’t look too out of place when we tried it for size. He agreed to let us have it cheap and also made us matching mizzen and foresails. Never having sailed a gaff boat before, these all took a bit of getting used to and we had a few fun trips learning to sail locally.

With a pair of carved teak signboards on the bows and her beautiful set of red sails, Ros Ailither was now looking like a proper ocean-going vessel. We had a shakedown trip across the Channel and started preparing for a longer voyage, equipping the boat with all the necessary safety equipment, charts and nav gear.

In May 2005, after five years of hard work, we sold our ferry business and finally set off on our dream trip across the Atlantic.

What happened next?

Dave and I successfully crossed the Atlantic in Ros Ailither. We set off from La Gomera just after Christmas and made landfall in Barbados 24 days later, sailing all the way under square sail (made on the beach in the Canaries).

We cruised the Caribbean down to Trinidad (for the Carnival) and up to Antigua, where we took part in the Classics Week, winning the Spirit of Regatta Cup in 2006.

We then headed north to Bermuda and up the east coast of the US and into Canada, passing through the Reversing Falls on the St John River.

We spent another winter season in the Caribbean, and a summer in Maine, before heading back to England with our new 16-month-old crew member, Katie , in 2008.

How Katie McCabe (above) restored her own wooden yacht aged 13

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Working Vessel Conversions

• By Dudley Dawson
• Updated: July 26, 2010

Converting Working Yachts

It seems like such a good idea—heck, I’ve even considered it myself—but converting a commercial working vessel into a yacht is fraught with innumerable opportunities for disaster. Many such attempts are undertaken, but most are abandoned after running short of money or patience, or both. Even if you follow through to launch and christening, you’re likely to end up with something that looks more like what it is—an old workboat—than a proper yacht. It’s too often a case of putting lipstick on a manatee, but there are exceptions.

In carrying out such a conversion, the first step is finding a suitable vessel. Boats in acceptable condition are usually too expensive, and affordable boats have been worked to within an inch of their lives. Avoid such craft and look instead for opportunities related to the economy or to the laws of supply and demand.

When the offshore oil industry took a serious extended hit in the mid-1980s, you could buy a surplus 100-foot crew boat in good condition, with four Detroit Diesel 12V71TI engines, for less than $100,000. That was 25 years ago, though, and there have been few if any similar situations since then. The recent recession offered opportunities, but yacht prices were hit as hard as working boats, so simply buying a yacht in reasonable condition was the better choice.

Let’s assume you find an acceptable boat at a good price. Chances are you’re going to spend a bundle removing the working gear and spartan interior and prepping it for renovation. That prep work can entail a lot of unexpected obstacles, including hidden damage or deferred maintenance. Worse, environmental mitigation can become a concern. Old boats sometimes carry a lot of lead paint and other chemicals that can add to your costs when you have to remove and dispose of them, and asbestos insulation was once commonplace on commercial vessels.

And then there are the four most expensive words in the universe: “While we’re at it….”

“While we’re at it, let’s rebuild the engines.” “While we’re at it, let’s add a cockpit.” “While we’re at it, let’s install zero-speed stabilizers, another generator, a bow thruster, a tender garage, bigger davits, teak decks….” You get the idea. Such add-ons can boost the cost past the point of starting from scratch and building a new yacht.

I can envision only two scenarios where I’d consider undertaking a conversion, and one isn’t really a conversion. The first is when the owner-tobe is an aficionado of a certain vessel type. I grew up with Chesapeake deadrise boats, and I love the narrow hull that runs so easily and comfortably in the shallow waters and light chop prevalent in that area. I’ve seen a couple of superb conversions, done so well that I searched earnestly for a project boat myself, but as noted previously, the good boats were costly and the affordable ones were unseaworthy. I also realized that the boat would not be suitable for many areas outside the Chesapeake. This would limit its usefulness and appeal if I tired of it, and the whole thing might end up as little more than an expensive labor of love.

The second scenario involves what is essentially a new-build project, starting with a workboat hull and deck built specifically for you, but finishing it out as a yacht. Again, you have to love the type you’re considering if going this route. You won’t save much, if anything, over a standard custom build, but if done right, you’ll end up with a Bristol yacht exactly to your liking.

If your heart is in such a project, go for it, but do it knowing it’s a route to a dream, not a way to save money. Do it right, so you and your family will be safe and comfortable, and so your chances of recovering at least a portion of your initial investment are better when resale time rolls around.

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Aluminum Boat Fishing Conversation and Restoration

Introduction: Aluminum Boat Fishing Conversation and Restoration

Epilog Challenge VI: I have entered this into the Epilog challenge please vote on it if you like the build. I would use the laser to help me with some really cool projects like laser cut wood objects, led illuminated signs, engraved tile and much much more. As an engineering student I have programmed Epilogs before.

I recently bought a 1985 14' Blue Fin aluminum boat that I thought would convert well into a small fishing boat. My plan is to use the boat to fish for pan fish and walleye. The main objective in my conversion was to create a large, flat, and sturdy deck area in the middle of the boat to stand on and cast from. I also wanted to add storage areas for fishing equipment and boating accessorizes. Last but not least, I wanted to enhance the overall appearance of the boat. A .GIF file above shows the overall process and the steps involved with the process. I am not a professional craftsman by any means, but I do have a good amount of experience with the common tools used in this build. All drawings from SketchUp have been modifications of https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=ac... I used the original model and edited it. Thanks to studioberger for sharing there file. . Time: 30 - 60 hours Cost: $200 - $450 (Excel file with my cost is attached - approximately $400) Tools: Circular Saw or Table Saw Jig Saw (aluminum and wood blades) Drill Drill Bits Tape measure Hammer Staple Gun Pliers Trowel Orbital Sander Screw Driver Clamps Utility Knife Dremel Microfiber Towel (optional) Polishing Pads (optional) Materials: 8X1-1/4 Exterior Screws w/ bit (1lb) 9X2-1/2 Exterior Screws w/ bit (1lb) 1/2" x 4' x 8' Plywood (x2) 2" x 2" x 8' SPF Furring Strips (x8) 2" x 8" x 8' Fir Larch 3' x 5' American Flag Ace Hardware 15-oz. Flat Gray Cold Galvanizing Compound Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Primer Ace 15oz International Blue Gloss Rust Stop Machine And Implement Enamel Spay Paint (x2) Ace 15oz International Red Gloss Rust Stop Machine And Implement Enamel Spay Paint (x2) Ace 15oz White Gloss Rust Stop Indoor/Outdoor Enamel Spay Paint (x3) 1-1/16" x 48" Brass Hinge (x2) 1-3/8" x 2" Brass Hinge (set of 2) (x2) Painters Tape 3/8" T-50 Staple 1250 pack Miscellaneous Fasteners Exterior Carpet (6' x 15') Exterior Carpet Adhesive (1 Gallon) 1/16" x 1/16" x 1/16" sq Trowel Flush Pull Large Black (optional) Rod Holder Black (optional) Cup Holder Black (optional) Sand Paper PPE:

Safety Glasses

Painting Mask

Attachments

Step 1: design and planing.

First, start out by taking the major measurements of the boat. The major dimensions will be just fine for now. Next, you should figure out the layout you want for your boat. Are you going to stand and cast, or sit? Are you going to troll, drift or anchor? How many people are going to be on board at once? You need to keep the size of the boat in mind when answering these questions. Since I was working with a somewhat narrow 14' boat, I designed the boat to be used by two people that are sitting and/or possibly casting. Since I am going to fish for pan fish and walleye, I planned on dropping an anchor in my fishing locations. I would have liked to add a trolling motor to make it a more versatile boat, but because of weight concerns I did not. If you do add a trolling motor make sure to that the weight of the batteries, mount, and motor will not be a problem. I started will a rough drawing of the side and top view of my boat and modified to it match my ideas. These plans will also help you decided how much lumber and materials you will need. The materials needed will differ from mine depending on your boat size and your design.

Step 2: Prep Your Boat

Remove everything you can remove from the boat (gas tank, anchor, battery, ropes, gear, ect...). Next, remove additional components that will not be part of the final boat. For me this was the middle bench, two cheap plastic cup holders and a box the previous owner had build for the battery. Be very careful if you do remove a bench, as they are structural parts of the boat and designed to take part of the load. Read up on this before removing any benches, and if you do, I strongly recommend reinforcing the area. If you choose to remove the bench seat, do so by drilling out the rivets. Then, wash everything down and scrub the boat so that all surfaces are free from mold, sand, or dirt. This step will be very important if you are planning on doing any painting.

Step 3: Designing the Deck Support Skeleton

With the plan you have created in mind, design a support structure that will fit your needs for the deck. If you are not going have any compartments in you deck floor, I recommend placing 2" x 2"s that span across the width of the boat (ribs) at the height that you want the boat deck to sit. These should be spaced approximately 18" apart. But the spacing will depend on the thickness of the plywood used. Next, connect them 2" x 2"s that run lengthwise (beams) that are spaced appropriately for the thickness of the plywood. Finally, add vertical supports to help support the load of the deck. The amount of supports you will need is dependent on the thickness of plywood and the size of the deck.

Because I wanted two large doors in the middle of the deck so that I could use the area under them as storage (for fishing poles, oars, and anything else), my design was a little more complex than the simple design described above. I designed the doors to be located side by side in the middle of the deck and to measure 58" long and 12" wide. Because of this, I used four 2 x 2 ribs across the width of the boat and three long beams running the length of the boat. I positioned one beam in the center of the boat and the other two 12" off center.

Add vertical supports as you see needed. Also add beams or cross members wherever two pieces of plywood meet up. In my boat this was in the front center and back center of the main deck. I needed to split the plywood to fit it tightly into the boat. I will explain this more in a later step.

Note: More support can be added later if needed.

Step 4: Building the Deck Support Skeleton

Measure the width of the boat where the ribs will be located, and cut a 2 x 2 to this dimension. Then take a piece of cardboard and cut it to the width of the 2 x 2 and about 5 in long. Next cut the cardboard piece so that it matches the contour of the boat where the rib will be located. Lay the cardboard on the 2 x 2 and trace the shape on both ends. Use a jig saw to cut the 2x2 to the shape of the hull. Use a Dremel or sand paper to help finalize the shape. Repeat this procedure for the rest of the ribs that will span the width of the boat.

Cut beams from 2 x 2's to run perpendicular and fill the gap between the ribs that run the width. With 2 x 2's in place, connect them with two screws on each end.

Then cut and shape 2 x 2's to be placed vertically from the bottom of the boat up to the beams (for support). Once these supports fit, screw them into place. Add more 2 x 2's if you feel they are needed.

For the back support on the rear deck, cut out a piece of plywood that is the width and length of the rear seat. Cut a 2 x 2 the width of the rear portion of the seat and attach it to the plywood. This will be where the rear storage doors will rest. Cut and attach one 2 x 2 that spans the width of the boat into the transom.This should be parallel to the 2 x 2 mounted to the plywood.

For the front support, cut a 2 x 2 to span the width of the boat and fit right in front of the bow bench. Later this will be screwed to the aluminum bench. This should fit the shape of the hull. Cut another 2 x 2 that is parallel to the last one but 13'' farther forward. It is very important that this is the same shape as the hull as two screws will be holding it in place that come from the outside of the boat. Next cut two 2 x 2's that gap the length of the last two you just cut. Screw these 4 pieces together, making sure that all of the tops of these pieces are flat and parallel to the top of the aluminum bench in the bow. Finally, cut a 2 x 2 that extends from the front of the assembly you have just made to the to the bow of the boat. Make sure to shape it to the boat and screw it into the middle of the assembly. This assembly can be seen in the left lower picture above.

Step 5: Cutting the Deck and the Storage

Lay a large piece of cardboard down on top of the deck support that you have just finished. Cut the cardboard to the size of boat. Then trace on to the plywood and cut to size with jig saw. Test the fit in the boat and adjust if needed. I cut the plywood in half so that it would fit into the V in the side of the hull. This helps support the end of the plywood. If you can not do this, make sure to make modifications to the support you have build in the previous steps to support the plywood properly. Next, mark the the locations where the doors will be located and cut them out. Cut more off each side so that the door will have room to close when carpet is added. The amount will depend on the thickness of the carpet. Next, cut the front and rear storage areas and decks. Again make sure to leave extra room for the thickness of the carpet. I chose to have one removable hatch in the front for storage and an area to place your legs. I also made two doors in the back for the more storage an area to cover the gas tank. To cut the front deck, use the same procedure as the main deck by using cardboard as a guide. Add hole to all parts that will have flush pulls, cup holders, and rod holders. Make sure to size them accordingly and leave room for carpeting. Later if you find you have not left enough of a gap for the carpeting you can make modifications. However, it can be time consuming and somewhat difficult.

Step 6: Adding Support

This step is only needed if you have removed structural components. Use 2 x 8 lumber to connect the side of the hull and the deck to strengthen the side wall. Use the holes from the old rivets that were removed as the locations for the added structure. Cut 4 triangular shaped pieces to be used as the added support structure. If the side of the hull is not flat, use cardboard as a guide again. Use a Dremel or sand paper to help shape the lumber to fit the shape of the boat.

Step 7: Seat Risers (Optional)

This step is optional based on whether or not you want to add seats or raise the seats like I did. Luckily the seats I had were the same width as the the lumber I had from the 2 x 8 I used for added support. I used two thickness for each seat. Decide how many thickness you would like to use for each seat, and cut as many as needed to size. Screw the blocks together if using more than one thickness of lumber. Then cut 2 x 2's to be used to anchor the 2 x 8 blocks just created to the seats. I used 4 for each seat. Seen in the image above, each 2 x 2 fit a gap in the seat base. Screw the 2 x 2's on to the base block. Test fit the seat, and adjust if needed.

Step 8: Built in Minnow Bucket (optional)

In the desired area, trace a line around the edge of the minnow bucket that you are going to use. I placed mine within arms reach of the rear seat. Using a jig saw, cut a hole in the seat just outside the line you traced to leave room for the carpeting. Place the bucket into the hole and make sure there is about an 1/8" gap all around for carpeting. Place the piece of wood in its final location and trace the hole you just cut on to the aluminum seatbelow. Cut along the line you have just traced using a jig saw. Dig out any foam if needed. Test fit the piece of wood and the bucket with the aluminum.Make modifications if needed. I recommend picking up a small aerator. They only cost $10 to $20 and can be found at lager tackle store. This will keep the minnows alive much longer when they are not getting fresh lake water.

Step 9: Painting

Remove everything from the boat and set aside. Vacuum the entire boat until clean. Wipe down everything again and use vinegar to clean the bare aluminum areas. Once everything is dry. Apply the cold galvanizing compound to all areas that have exposed or bare aluminum. Apply a second coat or multiple coats as recommended by the paint specifications. After this primer has dried, tape off all areas that will not be painted. I wanted a patriotic boat, so I painted stripes down the side walls and stars on theseats. First, tape the top edge and all other areas that will not be painted. Then, using spray paint, cover everything on the side walls of the hull and the vertical portions of the aluminum seats white for a base coat. Apply coats as recommended by the spray paint manufacture. Make sure to apply even light coats to avoid streaks and runs. After allowing the paint to thoroughly dry, apply tape over the areas that will be left white. Apply another coat of white paint over the tape to help create strong tape lines. Once everything is dry, apply the next color of paint. Next, spray the red paint over the white areas that are not taped to create the red stripes. Apply a second coat or multiple coats as recommended by the paint specifications. When dry, tape off the areas that have been painted with the stripes. Next, cut full adhesive sticky notes to the shape of the US flag's stars. Apply them to the vertical portion of the seats with even spacing. This should be white from earlier. Spray a couple of paint coats over the sticky notes and make sure they are firmly pressed on. When the paint is dry, spray blue paint over the stars on the seats. This will create a blue background with white stars. Once all painting has been done, remove all tape. Touch up any areas needed.

Step 10: Carpeting

Once every piece of lumber has been cut, you are ready to carpet them all. First, label the bottom sides of all the pieces. Also draw arrows pointing toward the bow of the boat. This will help you place all of the pieces on the carpet so that the pile goes in the same direction. Cut the carpet to size, plus an extra allowance of approximately 2.5" on all sides. Lay the carpet on top of the wood in the correct direction and lay a weight in the middle of the bigger pieces. Pull back one half of the carpet being careful not to shift it. Apply outdoor carpet adhesive with a trowel to one half of the top side of the wood. Then slowly lay down the carpet, without shifting it, starting in the middle and moving toward the end. Move the weight to the other side, and then apply the adhesive to the other half, and lay down the carpet. Flip over the work piece. Pull the edges tight around the back side and staple them to the bottom of the lumber. Repeat with the rest of the pieces of lumber. For small pieces, you can apply adhesive to the entire piece at once.

Step 11: Finishing Touches

Place everything back into the boat. Screw the front deck support to thealuminum seat so the the top is collinear with the seat. Then drill a hole through the side of the boat where the middle cross member is located. Secure the front assembly in place with a screw on each side mounting it with the hull. Then, screw down the decks to the supports, and the supports in place, using the holes you created from removing the middle aluminum seat. Add the hinges to the doors and attach them to the boat. Add cabinet catches if needed/wanted. I used two, one for each rear door. Then, screw down all other panels that are not movable. The screws will be hidden well by the carpeting. Locate the flush pull handles, and screw them into place. I used brass screws on all the pull handles and pole holders to match the hinges. In some places you might have to cut a hole in the aluminum seatsbelow the plywood for cup holders and rod holders to fit. Mount a fish finder and/or any other accessories in desired locations. Fasten the flag pole mount to the boat. Rub any bare aluminum with steel wool and polish with aluminum polish if desired.

I hope you have enjoyed the build. Congratulations! You're done. You now have one kick-ass patriotic boat.

Step 12: Final Notes

Feel free to make what ever modifications you would like to. Also, please feel free to ask any questions you may have. Keep in mind this does add a lot of weight and can reduce the strength of the boat making it more dangerous. Always use safety glasses when cutting and drilling and a paint mask when priming and painting. All drawing from SketchUp have been modification from https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=ac52cf0b598e930ab38d3c03866c1379. I used his original model and edited. Thanks to studioberger for sharing he file.

Step 13: Enjoy Your New Boat on the Water

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The Ultimate Jon Boat To Bass Boat Conversion Method

Jon boats lend themselves really well to a number of modifications. In fact, a Jon boat has such a versatile design that it can be easily converted into a bass boat.

The humble Jon boat is legendary for its simplicity, versatility and ease of use. It is just the thing for long easy days idling around your favorite fishing spots or for hunting in the shallows.

Not only are Jon boats an affordable and accessible watercraft but their simple, uniform structure lends itself to a whole host of customization and upgrade projects.

So it is no wonder that a popular goal for the experienced angling aficionado or boat hobbyist is to convert a cheaper Jon boat into, what is usually a much more expensive, bass boat.

Key differences between Jon boats and bass boats

Challenging a humble jon boat to match a bass boat in performance (video), choose a motor that is suited to your jon boat not one for a bass boat, why you can’t just stick a bass boat motor on a jon boat, modify your trolling motor controls to mimic a bass boat, how to add remote steering to your jon boat to mimic a bass boat (video), don’t forget the prop, how to install a casting deck on a jon boat (video), how to add storage to your new bass boat conversion (video), how to add a tackle storage system to your boat (video), how to install bass boat seating on a jon boat (video), jon boat seat mounting for bass fishing instructions (video), how to install deck strip lighting (video), how to install  navigational lights (video), how to install bass boat large night deck light (video), a quick note on boat weight – remember you still own a jon boat with all its restrictions, in conclusion: jon boat to bass boat conversion, how a bass boat differs from a jon boat – the mods you need to make.

Taking its name from one of America’s most popular game fish, the bass boat is a performance powerboat built exclusively for the joys of angling.

Seen as a huge step-up from a Jon boat, the bass boat can be fabricated from fiberglass or, more commonly, aluminum and comes equipped with many fishing conveniences.

It is a boat that is built for practicality but with extra comfort and the high speed capability for taking on a variety of waterways.

Key characteristics of a bass boat are:

• Outboard motor.
• Secondary trolling motor.
• Casting deck.
• Fish wells.
• high-back seating .
• Optional swivel seating usually at the front of the boat.
• High spec electronics like ultrasound, fish tracking and lighting.

Both of these small boats are a great choice for anglers, but you need to be aware of the features that make them different.

• Jon boats are flat-bottomed or semi-v while bass boats have a full V-hull.
• Jon boats have a shallower draft. ( See the difference between shallow draft and deep draft here )
• Jon boats are extremely well suited for use in very shallow waters due to their flat bottom shallow draft hull.
• Jon boats have open decking.
• Bass boats tend to be heavier than Jon boats of equivalent length.
• Bass boats can handle more powerful outboard motors than Jon boats.
• Bass boats have better performance in deeper and rougher waters due to the deeper draft hull design and better engine caliber.
• Bass boats have a casting deck.
• Bass boats have enclosed storage.
• Bass boats have a higher price point than Jon boats.

If you are looking at your Jon boat, and imagining a bad boy bass boat, then you need to get to work on key conversion projects. There are simple things you can do that will achieve the bass boat upgrade your little Jon deserves!

In this article we will focus on the key projects that will truly bring out the inner bass boat in your standard Jon boat.

By implementing these upgrades you should enjoy improved performance and functionality and even increase the value of your Jon boat.

Why you should convert a Jon into a bass boat instead of buying one

Each Jon boat owner will have their own personal reasons for wanting to convert their utility boat into a kick ass bass fishing boat. But the main reason most people undertake this modification is due to cost.

It is cheaper to convert a Jon boat to a bass boat than it is to buy a new bass boat.

You can pick up a good, reliable and durable Jon boat for as little as $400 (as shown in our article how much does a Jon boat cost ).

A bass boat is much more expensive. It will cost you anywhere from a few thousand dollars to tens of thousands of dollars.

The only thing you will be unable to convert is the bottom of the boat. For this reason it may be better to convert a semi-v Jon rather than a flat-bottomed one.

The Importance Choosing The Right Motor For Your Boat Conversion Project

Bass boats have more powerful engines than Jon boats so in order to match a bass boat you will need to be able to squeeze the very most out of a smaller motor.

To begin, follow the capacity plate on your boat and take it to the maximum.

US Coastguard approved capacity plates will tell you the maximum horsepower your vessel can handle safely.

Take advantage of this by getting the maximum sized engine that will fit your boat.

Ensure your outboard motor has a suitable shaft length sized to the small transom of your Jon boat.

Ensure the motor has an electrical start to cut down on weight and so you will get started quickly.

An electric start will also give you mastery of conditions when you need to get moving fast.

If you are looking for a bit more oomph on the water, addressing your Jon boat’s outboard motor is a great place to start. Why crawl when you can fly?

With an appropriately sized and optimized outboard engine your Jon can match, or at least get close to, the type of performance and speed that a store-bought bass boat can.

A bass boat can handle a bigger engine than a Jon boat so you can’t just look at the specs of a similarly sized bass boat and then stick an identical outboard motor on your Jon. Your Jon boat won’t be able to handle it.

Here are some guidelines to help you get the most out of your your Jon’s motor so it can match that of a bass boat.

Trolling motors are a standard bass boat and Jon boat power accessory that will allow you to quickly and discreetly navigate your favorite fishing spot.

Mount a trimmable trolling motor at the bow or stern of your Jon boat.

You can get high powered trolling motors that can be easily dismounted and trimmed.

Be sure to hard wire in a foot pedal control for convenience while you fish.

Add remote steering to the motor for that bass boat feel

The trolling motor on a Jon boat is steered by a tiller action. Obviously this is impractical on a bass boat.

You must therefore add remote steering to the outboard.

Luckily this is a fairly easy task to complete and does not even require you to buy a new motor.

Follow the instructions in the video below to easily and quickly fit a steering mechanism to an existing motor.

Always get an outboard motor that offers power assisted tilt and trim so that you can enjoy superior maneuverability when in shallow or obstacle-ridden waters.

An old bottom-battered propeller will hold your new new bass boat back. Don’t skimp on the prop.

Opt for teflon-coated steel, altering diameter and changing pitch to give a marked boost in performance.

You will instantly notice the difference between this type of prop and the one you probably have on your Jon boat currently.

Make sure your prop is capable of propelling the extra load from your bass boat conversion add-ons by attaching one with an increased number of blades.

A cheap prop just won’t cut it.

Full Jon Boat To Bass Boat Deck Conversion Walk-Through

Obviously a big difference between a bass boat and a Jon boat is the decking.

A Jon boat has an open deck while a bass boat has a solid deck.

Casting deck conversion

Bass boats accommodate the angler with decked areas from which one or two anglers can cast off while standing up without overturning the boat.

Obviously a Jon boat differs greatly from this with its open deck area.

The good news is that the flat open deck on a Jon boat lends itself well to the installation of level decked spaces.

This deck area can also be carpeted for added comfort, a better look and additional grip underfoot.

Jon boat to bass boat framing projects allow you to create plywood decked areas that are supported within the hull of the boat by a metal or wooden frame.

You will need to carefully consider the distribution of weight in the boat to ensure you will retain stability on the water.

Too much weight can dangerously affect your draft and increase the risk of being swamped or even capsizing.

Unfortunately not every Jon boat is suitable for decking.

Some smaller Jon boats are just too narrow, and those with flat sides can find these to be a disadvantage during the conversion process.

Add deck storage for bass fishing gear and catch

Jon boat framing projects can also be used to create bespoke storage that can enhance the utility of your space.

A well planned design can incorporate spaces to stow your gear, hide your battery and create live fish wells.

Adding these type of storage upgrades will truly transform your Jon boat into a fully functional bass boat.

Be sure to install the correct bass boat seating

The great thing about the flat hull of a Jon boat is that it provides pretty level seating for one, two or even three anglers.

But, the hard basic molded bench seating cannot compare to the comfort and luxury of high-back bass boat seating.

What you will lose in seat capacity from your conversion you will gain in comfort and functionality.

Most Jon boat owners will automatically want to remove the standard bench type seating in their Jon boat to make way for high-back bass boat seating. We do not advise this!

Instead of removing the bench seats in the Jon boat use them as support for your new decking and as mounting points for your new high-back seats.

Install Nav Lights And A Night Light For Dusk And Dawn Bass Fishing

Bass boats, unlike most Jon boats, bask in the light.

All boats used at night should be carrying the legally required navigation lights for safety ( even small kayaks must adhere to this law), but some additional creative lighting can boost the appearance and utility of your boat.

If you love to go night fishing or idle on the water after dusk, creative lighting options will mean you can keep visible and move about safely on the deck of your boat.

LED lighting is low energy and easy to install meaning that you can create a range of custom lighting effects with ease.

We have a full guide to choosing appropriate Jon boat lighting and installing it and you will find that this buying guide . That guide will also help you choose the correct lights for you new hybrid Jon/bass boat.

There are 3 basic types of light installations you will need to consider adding to your Bass boat conversion.

• Deck strip lighting.
• Navigational lights.
• Night light.

In the video below you will see how easy it is to install hidden deck lighting on your Jon boat to match the look and functionality of a more expensive bass boat.

Navigational lights are required by law on all boats used at night or in reduced visibility.

This simple fact is: you need to install nav lights on your converted boat.

The video below will walk you through the process of adding legally required navigational lights to your Jon boat/bass boat.

Being seen at night is not the only reason to install lights on your boat.

You also need to be able to see.

Navigational lights are installed at the back of your boat so others can see you.

Night lights or search lights on the other hand should be placed at the front of your boat so you can see where you are going and what is in front of you.

Additional accessories to add to your boat conversion project

Once you have finished installing your boat lights you may want to consider adding some extras such as additional electronic equipment.

As a bass boat is a fishing vessel installing a high grade fishfinder (as we showed how to do here ) at the least is advised.

Seeing all the options open to, you once you’ve made the decision to modify your Jon boat and convert it into a bass boat, can leave you wanting them all.

If you are skilled at DIY projects and have done work on your boat before then you will probably already have all the skills you need to make all of the above modifications.

It should be easy for you to turn your Jon into a kick-ass bass fishing vessel.

However, you will need to consider the impact of your bass boat style modifications on the weight capacity of your Jon boat.

Not only will additional weight from seating and decking eat into your maximum gross load but it will also affect the speed and performance of your boat on the water.

Always check your Jon boat maximum weight capacity before venturing into massive conversion projects.

The above Jon boat to bass boat conversion projects demonstrate the versatility of these little boats.

For many Jon boat owners making these upgrades is a favored pastime and even leads to larger boat building projects (like building your own boat from scratch).

Before you begin your conversion research widely and check out Pinterest, Instagram and YouTube for some great ideas.

You may come across things that you want to incorporate into your own conversion.

Start small and take your time if this is the first time you have attempted this type of conversion work.

Before you know it you will be enjoying serious ramp credibility.

Be sure to send us your before and after pictures when you embark on your own conversion projects.

Mick McGrath

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material.

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

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Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

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THE 10 BEST Moscow Fishing Charters & Tours

Fishing charters & tours in moscow.

• Adrenaline & Extreme Tours
• Gear Rentals
• Nature & Wildlife Tours
• Fishing Charters & Tours
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• District Southern (YuAO)
• 3rd Transport Ring (TTK)
• District Central (TsAO)
• Garden Ring
• Danilovskiy
• Biryulyovo East
• Zamoskvorechye
• Meshchanskiy
• Good for Kids
• Good for Big Groups
• Adventurous
• Budget-friendly
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. S-cruises

2. Moscow Fishing Lodge

3. fishing trip club of alexei chernushenko, 4. dva peskarya, 5. sea wind.

6. UTS GROUP

7. sportfish tour.

8. Magiya Otdykha

9. fishing adventures club.

10. Kolchenko Vladislav Sergeevich

• Magiya Otdykha
• Fishing Trip Club of Alexei Chernushenko