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Cockpit flooring

• Thread starter Eric C Lindstrom
• Start date May 3, 2001
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

Eric C Lindstrom

What have others tried in terms of cockpit flooring on the 240? The stark white is a bit overwhelming and a constant cleaning task so we want to cover it up.Has anyone gone as far as teak? What's the group's feelings on the plastic "lock-together" flooring? What about a rubber "rug" that is big enough cut to shape?Any ideas would be great.Eric  

Carpet We have a black dog and know exactly what you are talking about. Our solution was to buy some "bathroom carpet" the stuff with the rubber backing, and trim it to fit. Works great and we have had comments that it looks great. Hope this helps  

Dave Laing s/v WindSong

Flooring The "lock-together" flooring can be hard on bare feet!  

Darrel Richards

Finger Lakes Hi Eric, My son lives in Ithaca and teaches creative writing at Ithaca College. He completed his MFA program at Syracuse last May and got the offer to teach. He also teaches a class at Syracuse U. We will be coming up your way to visit over fathers day weekend in June and wondering what if anything may be going on in the sailing community over that weekend. Are there any races planned? Just wondering.Thanks,Darrel Richardsh23-Wind DancerHillsboro Inlet Sailing Clube-mail: [email protected]  

Tim Osborne

Cockpit Flooring mastered........! Hi there,I too thought the 'plastic ' flooring a tad basic and spent halfa day laying a teak effect laminate flooring. This stuff was dirt cheap ( about $20 ) and was self adhesive aswell. It comes in strips about 4" by 2' and was very easy to cut and shape.I'm sure you can find similar stuff in hardware stores on your side of 'The Pond'. It may not be genuine teak and holly but is a vast improvement and gives the saloon a whole different feel. If it doens't last then hey, it set me back $20 and a bit of time.I also had proper caulked teak panels made for the cockpit seats - they are superb and really transform the cockpit.A bit more than $20 this time - more like $500, but worth every penny (cent).If anyone is interested I'll try and sort out some photos and post them on this site?Happy SailingTim OsbornePelagia  

Brad Amundson

I would be interested Hi Tim,No hurry I have plenty to do now with my new boat but would be interested for next year to see your photo's.Thanks,Brad  

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Cockpit cover fabrication tips

By Leo Pohlmann, in collaboration with Zach Pohlmann

Throughout my 30 years of marine canvas experience as the owner of Uncharted Marine Canvas, I’ve seen many trends come and go. One that has emerged within the past five to 10 years is the creation of cockpit covers on sportfishing boats. Located in the Florida Panhandle, my shop often works on boats that utilize this type of cover. In this article, I will give some insights on cockpit covers as well as some tips about how to manufacture this style of cover. 

Rising popularity

While cockpit covers are relatively new to the marine canvas industry, I have seen a recent uptick of interest in these covers from owners of sportfishing boats in my area. The reason for this boom is that these covers offer something that previously could not be achieved—shade and weather coverage over the cockpit area. Connecting from the underside of the bridge deck all the way to the rear rub rails, this solid cover brings protection to the previously unprotectable. 

By utilizing cockpit covers on these boats, owners are adding life to the teak flooring and fighting chair—keeping the boat looking good and saving themselves money at the same time. In addition to protecting the aft of the boat from the elements, this cover offers a large amount of shade—something appreciated by crew members seeking relief from the hot sun, whether they’re deckhands preparing the boat for a fishing tournament or a family enjoying a day on the water. Designed to be taken on and off quickly and efficiently, cockpit covers are also very user friendly and cater to even the most casual of boat users. 

Adding headroom

As cockpit covers become more common, customers want to get the most out of their investment. One of the biggest negatives of these covers is the lack of headroom when in use. One solution is to incorporate support poles in rod holders and zippers in the cover (Photo 2 page 31). Incorporating a zipper near the rear of the cover allows the user to unzip the excess material needed to secure the cover to the rub rail, and to instead secure the cover to poles inserted into rod holders. These poles are made from carbon fiber or stainless steel and provide all the support of a traditional cockpit cover with additional headspace. This design has become more and more popular, and the new multiuse function is an added selling point for customers. 

Leo Pohlmann has been in the marine canvas industry for more than 30 years, now servicing a large portion of the Florida Panhandle and Alabama from his shop, Uncharted Marine Canvas, in Gulf Breeze, Fla. Growing up on the water, Leo has always loved the boating industry, so his draw to the marine canvas field was a natural fit for him. For this article, Leo worked in conjunction with his son, Zach Pohlmann, who is currently pursuing his master’s degree in communications with a focus on sports.

SIDEBAR: Cockpit cover fabrication tips

Here are some techniques to give these cockpit covers a modern look as well as a strong foundation.

Cockpit cover patterning 

Begin by measuring and fitting the track to be placed under the bridge deck of the boat. Our preferred track is Costa Track, which is made from a PVC material that is flexible but also offers a strong foundation. Costa Track is designed to have a low profile that includes hidden screws to make a clean finished product. Once the track is in place, add stainless steel end caps to each end of the track (Photo 1). These end caps, which are relatively new to the industry, help prevent damage to the track and keder welt. 

Next, turn your attention to the rear rub rail. You will need to remove a number of screws to provide a place for the pins to be installed. As a general guide, remove screws every 24–30 inches to ensure that both the cockpit cover and rear rub rail will be well secured.

Then use patterning paper running from the track to the rear rub rail to measure key points for the cover production. Since patterning paper is typically only 72 inches wide, we use three panels of paper to get all the measurements. To align these panels, we use the dot-to-dot measurement system, which is derived from the Marine Canvas Training Institute under Don Wedge. Using this method, we include other notable patterning marks such as the track opening and the pin placement on the rub rail. Once these measurements are complete, head back to the shop to start on the cover production. 

Cockpit cover production

To begin the production process, lay out the three separate pattern panels and tape them together, matching the dots. This will help you understand the amount of material needed. We use Stamoid Light from Serge Ferrari, which comes in a variety of widths including 59, 80 and 102 inches. The variety of widths is an important aspect of this material because the fewer panels that are needed to be sewn together, the stronger the finished product will be. 

Once you’ve determined the correct size, make a blank so the pattern can lay on top and be used for a guide when cutting out the desired material. We use Teflon ™ thread to sew everything because it resists sun rot for the life of the cover. Once the blank is properly sewn and cut out, sew keder welt into the 2-inch facing at the track end of the cover. 

Next, add an 8-inch facing to the bottom of the cover. This will provide plenty of reinforcement for the grommets that help secure the pins in place. These stainless steel pins are then incorporated into the cover and attached through a bungee cord system that maintains the modern look of the cover (Photos 3 and 4). Finally, install grommets in the 8-inch facing so the pins can go through the cover and into the rub rail. Now it’s time to head back out to the boat and begin the installation process of the cockpit cover. 

Cockpit cover installation

Installation is the time to put the final touches on the cover to ensure everything fits well and the final product is what you set out to achieve. Begin by sliding the keder welt into the track under the bridge deck to secure the top of the cover. Once that is in place, stretch the cover to the rear rub rail and install the pins in the pre-determined holes to secure the cover. As a general tip, we tell customers to start putting pins in around the middle of the rub rail and work out to the corners. When that is complete, the cover is finished, and the job is done. 

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A User-Friendly Cockpit Grating

Posted by Drew Frye | Maintenance , Projects

Kind to feet, it keeps dirt from getting underfoot

As is the case on many boats, the cockpit sole of our catamaran, Shoal Survivor , was textured gelcoat with no grating. Try as we might to keep dirt and grit off the boat, the cockpit always turned into a trashy wet sandbox, and the grinding of sand underfoot against gelcoat might as well be dollar bills burning. The previous owner had installed Dri-Dek tiles wall to wall, which solved the sand and dampness issues, but they were miserable on bare feet and agonizing to kneel on.

Cut to length, treated with Drew’s concoction, and carefully stacked, the cedar boards sat for six weeks to dry.

For a few years, I enjoyed an easy- to-install, inexpensive wooden cockpit grating I assembled from snap-together hardwood patio tiles (I got the idea from a blog post). Over time, though, the plastic backing disintegrated (for no good reason, as it was in the shade of a hardtop) and the wood began to rot.

While fastening the boards to the backing, he inserted pieces of 3⁄16-inch sign board between them to ensure consistent spacing.

Because I liked this solution to the sole problem, I made note of its good attributes and resolved to improve on it. The materials were cheap, the wood-working was simple, and I liked the color. It was flexible, so it conformed to the curvature of the cockpit floor, and I could easily pick up one corner and run the hose underneath it, cleaning out several months’ worth of trash and grit in a few minutes. After considerable headscratching and some product testing, I came up with a solution.

I wanted a wooden sole, but I was determined to prevent rot from ruining it prematurely. Before moving forward, I came up with an inexpensive, very effective treatment I could apply to wood to make it nearly impervious to rot.

Coarse salt sprinkled on the boards while the final coat of varnish was still wet gave them a non-skid surface.

I chose a light-colored western red cedar for the deck, in part because of its light weight, rot resistance, and economy, but also because it had the look I wanted: Shoal Survivor ’s cabin is cherry, not teak or mahogany. Any rot-resistant wood could work, though the extent to which it will absorb the treatment depends on the wood, and I doubt a dense wood like oak would absorb much at all.

He left a narrow band around the edges of the grate glossy, for appearances.

To tie the cedar strips together and support them, I wanted a material that is flexible and durable. I’ve always been impressed with the weather and UV resistance of PVC mobile-home skirting. It’s much stronger than the backing used on typical patio tiles, completely impervious to rot, and inexpensive. Although the lattice pattern I chose is considerably stiffer than patio-tile backing, it’s sufficiently flexible to conform with the gentle curvature of a cockpit sole.

Trimming and treating

I ripped the decking from 8-foot 1 x 8 cedar planks. As well as cutting the strips to width and length, I beveled the ends at a 45-degree angle, and did the same along the sides of what would become the edge strips. I also trimmed the ends of the edge strips to match the corner profile of the cockpit. To allow clearance for the sharp curvature where the sides of the cockpit well meet the sole, I cut the PVC backing about 2 inches shorter and narrower than the cockpit well.

The salted finish on the finished grate is very easy on the feet.

I placed the sawn and sanded decking on a waterproof tarp and liberally painted on my glycol-borate-ester anti-rot formula every few days for several weeks, until the wood would absorb no more. After each coating, I stacked the boards tightly, one board on the other, and wrapped them in the tarp until it was time for the next coat. To ensure that all the boards were completely soaked, I flipped the stack each time I coated them. I then let the boards drip off and dry neatly stacked for 6 weeks. When done, I had used about ½ gallon of the formulation, so I figure 1 gallon would treat about 12 to 15 board feet.

The grating brightens the cockpit and is flexible enough to conform to the slight curvature of the cockpit sole.

When no treatment was noticeable on the surface, I applied four coats of gloss marine spar varnish to all the decking strips, sanding lightly between coats. I used varnish rather than epoxy because it seemed to bond better, and it will certainly provide superior resistance to UV.

After cutting the PVC lattice to size (any saw will work), I laid out the decking upside down on the cockpit sole, temporarily placing pieces of 3 ⁄ 16 -inch sign board between the boards to ensure uniform spacing. I then laid the PVC backing on top of the decking, pre-drilled and countersank all the screw holes (every board, every 16 inches), and assembled the grating. (The screw holes, which are unavoidable, will provide a route for water to enter the wood, but so long as the water is not actively flowing through the wood, the glycol borate cannot wash out and the concentrations will remain lethal to bacteria and fungus for a very long time.)

To provide a non-skid surface, I applied one final coat of varnish and thoroughly dusted it with coarse salt. This traditional “salted varnish” finish is a favorite of ours, as it is easy on the feet, cheap, and easy to maintain — recoating involves nothing more than applying a coat of varnish with coarse salt sprinkled over the top. Just for looks, I masked the narrow band around the outside so that it is not salted; you really can’t slip in the last inch and a half.

For the cost of a sheet of PVC lattice, a few 1 x 8 cedar planks, a half-box of borax, and a half-gallon of antifreeze, I made a cockpit grating I expect to last for 20 years, and probably far longer. As a retired chemist, I enjoyed the process of determining how to preserve woods, and since teak isn’t the best wood for all purposes, I’m hopeful that someone will find my concoction useful.

About The Author

draws on his training as a chemical engineer and pastimes of climbing and sailing to solve boat problems. He cruises Chesapeake Bay and mid-Atlantic coast in his Corsair F-24 trimaran, Fast and Furry-ous, using its shoal draft to venture into less explored waters. He is most recently author of Rigging Modern Anchors.

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Why should I consider replacing my Sea Ray Sundancer boat cockpit carpet?

Over time, boat cockpit carpets can wear out, become faded, or develop mold and mildew due to exposure to water and sunlight. Replacing the carpet can significantly improve the appearance and comfort of your boat's interior, as well as enhance its overall value.

How do I know if Matworks has a carpet specifically designed for my Sea Ray Sundancer model?

Matworks typically offers a wide range of marine carpet templates for various boat makes and models. You can check their website or get in touch with their customer support to find out if they have a custom template available for your Sea Ray Sundancer model.

Can I choose the color and design of the replacement carpet for my Sea Ray Sundancer?

Yes, Matworks often offers a variety of color options and designs for their boat cockpit carpets. You can choose a carpet that complements your boat's interior or matches your personal preferences.

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