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18 Foot Sailboats Boats for sale

18' Herreshoff Catboat for sale - $7900.00 OBO

Wellfleet, Massachusetts

Make Cat Boat

Model Herreshoff

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 18.0

Posted Over 1 Month

A 18 foot fiberglass Herreshoff Catboat built in 1974. Perfect daysailer or overnighter. Ready to go in the water.Trailer NOT included. Priced to sell at $7900 or best offer.Its a nice boat !

18' Herreshoff Catboat for sale - $6900.00 OBO

A 18 foot fiberglass Herreshoff Catboat built in 1974. Perfect daysailer or overnighter. Ready to go in the water.Trailer NOT included. Priced to sell at $6900 or best offer.

1982 Stamas 44

Miami Beach, Florida

Make Stamas

Category Sailboats

1982 Stamas 44, This is a Stamas 44 ketch center cockpit, designed and built by Bob Johnson, who went on to design and build Islands Packet sailboats.A/C, bow thruster, 100 hp new engine, custom woodwork in salon, 1000 hr house bank...This boat looks, and is built, like an Island Packet - a true, heavily built fiberglass bluewater boat capable of sailing around the world.The salon has a lot of headroom, and huge wrap around windows for a sailboat. The original owner took out the original windows, and had a custom steel frame installed with half inch plexiglass windows.Master aft cabin with head and dedicated shower, and v-berth with it's own head and shower. Both heads recently rebuilt. New macerator pump and thru hull. 320 gallon fresh water tank. 110 gallon diesel fuel tank. 30 gallon holding tank.98 lockers onboard. The boat has a tall freeboard, carries her 14 foot beam a long way aft, and has tonnes of storage room. Great cruiser.She's 22.5 gross tonnes, 30 000 pounds displacement, 14 beam, 5'1" draft, and fits under the ICW bridges at around 63 feet tall.She spent most of her life in Lake Ontario Canada's fresh water, and I brought her south three years ago after buying her from my parents.It's been in the family for the last 18 years, and has had over $200 000 spent on her in the last ten years upgrading and adding to her.Some upgrades include; new yanmar 100 horsepower turbo diesel ($25k), bowthruster ($17k), rack and pinion steering ($17k), new Mack headsail and mizzen sail ($12k), new feathering prop ($6500), custom interior woodwork, wood floors installed, new Atkins and Hoyle davits 750 pounds limit, avon 11'2" dinghy and 20 horsepower Honda outboard (2003), new frigoboat deep fridge/freezer, ceramic stovetop, washer/dryer, bar fridge, new raymarine autopilot with handheld remote, new hot water heater, new inverter/charger, bilge pumps, all batteries new (11), 10 year old 16500 btu air conditioner barely used until this year, new air conditioning water pump and service, new foam and upholstery, cockpit cushions, center console, windmeter, rockna anchor and chain, electrical panel and wiring for a large part of the boat, high power alternator, new bottom paint ( professionally sanded down to gel coat, two coats hard, four coats ablative ), new engine room blowers, and a honda eu2000 generator, new faucets etc etc, Needs the outside teak redone at this point, though I'll be doing that before too long, the bimini top is on its last legs, and at least needs new stitching.If you want to come see her, we could arrange for you to stay in the V-berth. We're in Miami Beach marina, in South Beach Miami Beach. We could also have a skype walk around tour of sorts beforehand. $145000

1985 Bavaria 32 Cruiser

Naples, Florida

Make Bavaria

Model 32 Cruiser

1985 Bavaria 32 Cruiser 1985 Bavaria 960 or 32 Foot Cruiser in amazing condition, fiberglass in perfect condition without spider cracks or soft spots. Engine 1985 Volvo 18 hp Two cylinder diesel model 2002 in great shape and well serviced.  Sounds great and looks better burns 1 qt of diesel/ hour at 1600rpm  Sails and rigging in Good shape. Fogh Main, Storm main never used, 110% Jib and 150% Jib, 140% Roller Furling Jib new 2008, Genoa with a Hood Spinnaker with Scoop.  The cabin is spacious with all the amenities, 2 Private births for 2 and 2 long seat also can be converted.  Nice Nav Station and well equipped Kitchen.  Open Cockpit with Spray Hood and Cockpit Bimini new 2008 .  electronics in good order.  This Vessel is ready to sail tomorrow.

1997 BENETEAU OCEANIS CC 40 FT.

New Rochelle, New York

Make BENETEAU

Model OCEANIS CC 40 FT

Length 40.0

1997 BENETEAU OCEANIS CC 40 FT.Specs Designer: Groupe Finot - Armel Briand Keel: Bulb Hull Shape: Monohull Dimensions Beam: 12 ft 9 in LWL: 36 ft 9 in Maximum Draft: 5 ft 6 in Displacement: 18740 lbs Ballast: 5300 lbs Headroom: 6 ft 3 in Dry Weight: 18740 lbs Engines Total Power: 50 HP Engine 1: Engine Brand: Yanmar Year Built: 1997 Engine Model: Yanmar Engine Type: Inboard Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel Engine Power: 50 HP Perfect cruising boat Full cockpit enclosure 5 KW NextGen generator with sound shield (super quiet) 2 heads 2 air condition units Main / Forward and Aft Cabin New cockpit cushions Algae X fuel polisher Custom made bunk beds Xantrex Link Pro Battery Monitor Xantrex 40 Smart Battery Charger Fresh Water Tanks: (132 Gallons) Fuel Tanks: (53 Gallons) Flex O Fold Bronze folding prop Asymmetrical Spinnaker and Sock TV / Cd player Digital Fridge / Freezer Thermostat VacuFlush Toilet 35lbs. CQR and 33 Bruce anchors and rope chain Simpson Lawrence chain / rope windless 2 8D Gel Batteries and Separate Starting Battery Back up High Capacity Bilge Pump PHI /PSS Shaft Seal Accommodations Number of single berths: 6 Manufacturer Provided Description: The specification for the Oceanis 40CC: the design of an ideal long-distance cruising yacht for a couple, but with the capability of accommodating four or five people in the greatest comfort. Being on board a powerful, reliable boat that also has high performance is an essential part of the pleasure of cruising. The Oceanis 40CC's hull is remarkable for its long waterline, big volumes and efficient wing-bulb keel. As far as her construction is concerned, there are no compromises: the structural inner mounding, glued and laminated to the hull, distributes any stresses from the rigging and keel. This technology combines reliability and strength and also provides perfectly finished locker interiors that are easy to maintain. One of the principal advantages of a central cockpit is the incomparable safety derived from the height of the cockpit, which is surrounded on all sides. There is a step of the coaming on the Oceanis 40CC to make it easier to get up the two teak-covered bench seats in the cockpit. There is a wheel mounted pedestal in the middle of the cockpit. Genoa and mainsail halyards and the lines for the two furlers are brought back onto powerful stoppers that free the halyard winch, whenever necessary. All handling lines are to hand. The Oceanis 40CC's deck is totally logical, simple and efficient, with steps in the transom (standard bathing ladder), liferaft fixing point on aft coachroof, solid aluminum bulwark the full length of the hull, as well as an aluminum rubbing strake. The numerous opening hatches and Dorade vents are positioned in such a way so as not to impede movement on deck. The chainplates for the upper and lower shrouds, which are positioned right against the coachroof, also leave the side decks completely free for easy access to the foredeck for the sunbathing area and the electric windlass. In the interior, the warm atmosphere (cherry finish) on board the Oceanis 40CC is essential to a good quality of life on board. To starboard, the saloon table and the raised settees ensure a pleasant "sea view" from inside the boat. Opposite to port, is the navigation station: chart table with stowage, bookshelves, 16-function electrical control panel, and all the room you need for on-board electronics. In the forward cabin, your guests have a large double berth, hanging locker, many other lockers and an en suite head compartment. In the passageway to port, which runs alongside the large engine compartment, the Oceanis 40CC's galley has everything you would normally find in the best-equipped kitchens: freezer, refrigerator, double stainless steel sink with hot and cold pressurised water, three-burner gimballed stove and many cupboards and drawers. As for the master cabin, all the incomparable advantages of the centre cockpit in terms of comfort and space have been fully exploited: large double berth with access from both sides, vanity-desk with mirror and lockers, large hanging lockers and your own head compartment with WC and separate shower. The Oceanis 40CC is truly the product of in-depth study into the expectations of ocean-going leisure sailors. A successful marriage of classicism and modern technology. Equipment List Oceanis 40CC Specifications - Standard Equipment On Deck - Stainless steel stemhead fitting with 2 fairleads and roller. - Open stainless steel pulpit - Leroy Sommer 1000W electric windlass with up - down control - Self-bailing anchor well with twin opening hatches and eye bolt for mooring line - Bulwark surrounding the deck with teak cap - 8 anodized aluminum mooring cleats: 2 forward, 2 midships, 4 aft - Forestay chainplate with slats on the stemhead fitting - 2 chromed bronze lower shroud chainplate, 2 Beneteau streamlined chromed bronze shroud chainplates - Anodized aluminum identified fuel and water fillers - Stainless steel stanchions with two sets of covered stainless steel lifelines - Lateral opening lifelines - 4 teak handrails on coachroof - 4 dorade vents - Forward cockpit coaming for windscreen, rigid top or sprayhood - 2 genoa sheet tracks with adjustable cars - 2 genoa sheet turning blocks - Mainsheet track with adjustable car - 1 Lewmar 40C STO halyard and maneuvering winch - 4 Spinlock XL double stoppers for halyards and maneuvering lines - 2 Lewmar 48C STO genoa sheet winches - 1 Lewmar 40C STO mainsheet winch Center Cockpit - Hydraulic steering wheel pedestal mounted or on forward port cockpit bulkhead - Control panel on cockpit bench seat facade - Teak slatted cockpit benches - 1 winch handle box - 2 chromed bronze winch handles - 2 sidedeck lockers (one for propane bottle) - 2 lockers for mooring lines and fenders on transom - Fixing points on aft coachroof for liferaft - 2 - 18-12 S-S backstay chainplates - 2 - 18-12 S-S pushpit with 2 teak seats, closed by sheathed lifelines - Emergency tiller - Transom with teak slatted skirt - Teak slatted step in transom - Folding 18-12 S-S swim ladder with wooden steps - Cockpit shower -- Aluminum rubbing strake either side of hull Spars - Rigging - Keel stepped mast and anodized aluminum boom - Mast with main furling system - 2 sets of spreaders angled aft 10 degrees - Spinnaker pole - Partner fitting with articulated blocks for returning halyards to cockpit Standing Rigging - Stainless steel rigging: upper shrouds, lower shrouds, 2 backstays - Twin groove forestay with Profurl genoa furler - Lateral rigging with discontinuous rigging to first set of spreaders Running Rigging - 1 main halyard, 1 genoa halyard - 1 mainsheet with blocks, 2 genoa sheets - 1 maneuvering line for genoa furler - 1 line for furling main, 1 line for unfurling main - 1 boom halyard - Sails - Furling Dacron main - Furling Dacron genoa with UV protection strip Interior Accommodation - Cherry interior Companionway - 15 mm Altuglass sliding hatch - Twin wooden companionway doors - 2 cherry wood stained handrails - 4 molded wooden steps with anti-skid strip, on polyester engine cover - Hanging locker to starboard of companionway Salon Starboard - Nav. station - Chart table with chart stowage and molded wood fiddle - Bookshelves - Lockers - 12V, 16 functions hinged electrical panel - Hinged panel for onboard electronics - Large tool drawer - Drawers - Seat - Opening 15" x 8" porthole in coaming with curtain - Halogen lamp with independent switch - Red watch light Salon Area - Settee - Lockers along hull sides - Wood hull lining - Reading lights - Fixed 6'7" x 8" porthole with curtain - Vent To Starboard - Raised deck salon for panoramic visibility - Shaped settee with cushions with 5.5" thick, medium density foam and backrests - Salon table with stainless steel base - Lockers and cupboards along hull sides - Wood hull lining - Lockers underneath settee - Halogen lighting with independent switch - Fixed porthole 6'3" x 10" with curtain - Opening Plexiglas panel in coachroof 23" X 23" with curtain - Padded deckhead lining - Bookcase - bar Galley in Port Gangway - Antium work surface with molded wood fiddle - Twin rectangular S-S sinks - Chopping board over sink - Hot - cold water mixer tap - Foot pump for icebox discharge - Trash bin - 3 sliding vegetable baskets - S-S oven with 3 burner gimbaled stove and S-S protection bar - Cutlery drawer - 2 cupboards to port, lockers along the side of hull - Top loading 2 compartment freezer - fridge,with 12V evaporator - 2 opening portholes 15" x 8" in coaming with curtains - Lighting by halogen lamps with independent switches and fluorescent tube - Dust box Aft Owner's Cabin - Central double bed 6'7" x 4'11", 4.7" thick mattress - 2 symmetrical hanging lockers - Stowage space - lockers along side of hull to port and starboard - Lockers - Step either side of the bed for easy access - Vanity - desk with mirror - Wood hull lining - Padded deckhead lining - 2 opening portholes 15" x 8" in coaming with curtains - 1 opening porthole 15" x 8" in transom with curtain - 1 opening porthole in aft coaming 27" x 8" with curtain - 2 dorade type vents - Lighting from halogen lights with independent switches and reading lights Aft Owner's Cabin Head - Compartment molded in one piece to be waterproof and easy to clean - Marine toilet with polyester lid - Bathroom accessories - S-S wash basin with hot - cold water mixer tap - Mirror - Cupboards - lockers - Stall shower with hot - cold water mixer tap - Electric pump for used water - 2 opening portholes in coaming 15" x 8" - Halogen lamp with fluorescent tube Forward Owner's Cabin - 6'3" x 4'7" double bed, 4.7" thick mattress - Drawer and lockers beneath bed - Hanging locker - Wood hull lining - Padded deckhead lining - 1 opening porthole in coaming (23" x 18") with curtain - 1 opening porthole in coaming (13" x 7") with curtain - Halogen lamps with independent switches and reading lights - 1 dressing table with mirror and shelves Forward Head Compartment - One piece molded compartment for waterproofing and easy maintenance - Marine toilet with polyester lid - Bathroom accessories - Wash basin with hot - cold mixer tap - Shower - Mirror, cupboard - Electric pump for discharge of water - Opening porthole in coaming 23" x 18" - Fluorescent tube lighting Engine Compartment - Engine 50 hp diesel - Single lever engine control - Engine chassis integral with hull liner - Engine control panel in cockpit - Engine compartment insulated by lead foam - Space for generator in engine compartment - 53 gal. fuel tank - Fuel - water filter on fuel circuit - Stainless steel shaft protected by skeg - Triple bladed prop Electrical Circuit - 12V Electrical circuit - 2 - 125 amp batteries for service with circuit breaker - 1 - 95 amp engine battery with circuit breaker - 110V-220V 45 amp H battery charger - 12V 16 function Electrical panel with 12V plug - Options conduits - Overhead halogen lighting, reading lights and fluorescent tubes - Cockpit lighting - Navigation lights - Masthead light - Deck spot - 110V-220V shore power plug (specify when ordering) - Electrical panel 110V-220V (specify when ordering) - 4 - 110V-220V sockets (specify when ordering) Water Circuit - Manual bilge pump - Electric bilge pump - 132 gal. fresh water capacity in 2 rigid tanks with hull liner - Valves for tank selection - 11 gal. water heater run off engine and shore power - Pressurized fresh water unit with compression tank - 2 electric discharge pumps for showers Propane Circuit - Box for propane bottles (2 bottles) in side lockers with air vent (conforming to US regulations) - Circuit breaker Miscellaneous - Certificate of Individual Bureau Veritas approval - Maintenance kit - Owner's manual - Owner's briefcase. Oceanis 40CC Optional Equipment - Teak interior - Teak decks - Forward cockpit steering position - Lewmar electric 30EST maneuvering winch - Polyester coachroof dodger - Fixed davits - Engine driven refrigerator - Ardic heating with 3 outlets - Gennaker - Gennaker gear SAILBOAT IS LOCATED IN NEW ROCHELLE NY SAILBOAT IS ON LAND FOR WINTER STORAGE BUT IT CAN BE PUT IN THE WATER FOR POTENTIAL BUYER......

1978 Canadian Sailcraft 27

Marathon, Florida

Make Canadian Sailcraft

1978 Canadian Sailcraft 27 27' Canadian Sailcraft 1978, Fully outfitted, ready to sail. New sails, Engine with 1500 hours on it (Yanmar 18hp) runs perfectly, stove, ice box, great head, new Garmin chart plotter still under warranty with extra charts of Florida & Bahamas as well as paper charts, handheld GPS, fully run batteries off new 100W solar power still under warranty, extra 10W trickle solar charger, new batteries + 1 extra, handheld and wall mounted VHF radios, 2 anchors: plow & danforth with 100' of chain, brand new bottom paint, up to date survey, 2 gear winches, auto pilot, new mast put on '07, all lines run back, extra gas and water cans, great sound system, fully outfitted with tools, manuals and much much more. 4 FOOT DRAFT! Live aboard and cruise ready. This boat was fully prepared for Caribbean cruise buy change in owners' plans force sale.

2008 Gemini 105 MC

Make Gemini

Model 105 MC

2008 Gemini 105 MC The Gemini 105 MC Catamaran is the perennial best-selling cruising catamaran with great accommodations, light and airy spaces and good sailing performance all at an affordable price. The Gemini 105 MC features an efficient hull shape, trusted kick up centerboards and rudders, an 18 inch draft and extremely manageable 14 foot beam. The Gemini 105 MC interior and deck mold make the boat strong, light and fast with great cruising amenities. Accommodations feature the master queen cabin forward and two double cabins aft. The Salon has a dinette settee with a 3-piece table suitable for casual seating when closed or dining when open. To Starboard is a large galley with opposing work surfaces, double sink, refrigerator and two burner stove with oven. Forward to Port is the head with counter space, wash basin and shower with an isolating door and two storage lockers. The cockpit is designed for great seating with easy ingress and egress facilitated by normal sized steps to the deck in each corner.  Hammock seating aft provides a comfy place to hang out. The solid foredeck provides a safe work area when needed and a spacious lounge area for calm sailing days.

1982 S2 8.5A 28 foot Sailboat with Inboard Yanmar Diesel - In Racine Wisconsin

Racine, Wisconsin

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 28.0

**** PLEASE NOTE: Because of the relatively low BUY IT NOW price, payment will be due within 24 hours via paypal. I will send you a paypal invoice after a successful "BUY IT NOW" or an accepted offer. Please only buy or offer if you have positive feedback. Your buy it now or offer constitutes a binding agreement to purchase so please ask questions BEFORE clicking "BUY IT NOW" or making an offer. After receiving your payment I will overnight you the title or meet you in person depending on timing and my availability.**** Very Nice S2 8.5A (28ft) for sale in Racine Wisconsin. I'm expecting a second child soon and really don't want to sell this excellent great lakes cruiser. Clean and clear Wisconsin title.Tiller steering. (always my preference)Inboard Yanmar diesel is extremely clean and fuel efficient. Recent full Yanmar service checkout since boat was last launched.Furling headsail in good shape. Newer mainsail in excellent shape.New Raymarine autopilot professionally installed. Shore power and long power cable. Halyards in good shape.New marine head and holding tank (never used). Chainplates recently professionally rebedded by boatyard. Interior in excellent shape.Solid fiberglass hull. All tabbed in joinery in excellent shape. Cored deck with NO soft spots. Very large cockpit.Includes steel cradle as well. I looked at everything in this size and price range in the lower half of lake Michigan for two years and this is the nicest boat I could find by leaps and bounds. Solid turnkey value. Launch is all ready paid for with the boat yard. You can be in the water tomorrow. No better deal can be found on solid and ready to sail Great Lakes cruiser with a clean inboard diesel - it is just time for me to move it along. Currently out of the water at Racine Riverside Marina in Racine, WI. Summer storage is paid through the end of this month and a launch is included in the purchase. If you chose not to launch until next season the storage rates at the Marina for winter are extremely reasonable and the pre-paid launch will still be yours come next summer. Here is a Review from "Practical Sailor" S2 8.5 MeterThe 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look.When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations. In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.ConstructionThe hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.Handling Under PowerAlthough some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.Handling Under SailThe S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.Owners of 8.5s have little but praise for the interior of the boat. The cabin has a wide feeling, created by pushing everything outboard. The “chart area” on the plan is a myth, as far as we can tell.Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.Deck LayoutThe deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.BelowdecksOwners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12" of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.ConclusionsThe S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.

1992 Yanmar 2GM20F (2 Cyl)

Spring Hill, Florida

Make Yanmar

Model 2GM20F (2 Cyl)

Category Sloop Sailboats

1992 Yanmar 2GM20F (2 Cyl), Nice Hunter 28 with fractional sailing rig, roller furling head sail with all her winches, traveler and sheets easily handled from the cockpit make her a comfortable single-handed layout for any sailor. This model's stern has the swim platform integrated into the transom with folding swim ladder which makes this boat easy to enjoy on hot summer days if you and your crew want to jump in and cool off. Her gel coat is clean, her bottom is painted blue, her decks are solid and are treated with light grey non skid.She's powered by a Yanmar diesel 18hp engine with very low hours (estimated to be 500). She sips .33 gal per hour and is very economical to operate. She has a bulb winged keel and draws 3 foot 9 inches, which means she can skinny up into almost any anchorage without worry. She's set up with a plow anchor with chain and line, and has a secondary Danforth for emergencies. Her cockpit is very large for a 28 footer. Cushions on either side of the binnacle and wheel, and cushions aft for Skipper and crew behind the helm. Storage lockers beneath cabin seats and starboard cockpit seat.She has a full bimini top.This 28 has a new Garmin 541s chartplotter, and raymarine sailing instrument package, with speed, depth, wind, and a Raymarine autopilot X-5 system in 2012. All looks new and per the seller functions perfectly. Going below, via the entry door and down three sturdy wooden steps is the salon with 6'2" headroom. She sleeps 6 with a full size bed in the aft stateroom two settee sofas in the salon, and a forward V berth. In the salon there is a nice wrap around galley, and the settees wrap around forward in the shape of a "U" for maximum seating. These double as berths and there is a large fold down table in the center of the salon. A small navigation station and electric panel to starboard, shes a very comfortable layout. The aft master has a hanging locker and lighting, and her forward berth is a large V berth that is open to the salon. This makes the berth feel very open due to it's high ceilings, many port holes, overhead hatch and view into the salon and galley from the fore peak. Her head is aft, to starboard with sink, cabinet storage, manual flush toilet, shower wand and port hole for natural light and ventilation. She has wood floors, teak cabinetry, and is rich in color and styleCurrent owner bought her 2 years ago and it has never left the dock since.New battery charger, new bilge pump, new fuel pump and impeller for raw water pump.New standing and running rigging in 2009, has staylock fittings. Complete new Raymarine electronics package, including speed, depth , wind, and brand new Raymarine x-5 autopilot.Gel coat is good.Cockpit in good condition. Rigging, winches, lines in good order. $22000.00

1981 C&C YACHTS 40-2 Centerboard

Punta Gorda, Florida

Make C&C YACHTS

Model 40-2 Centerboard

1981 C&C YACHTS 40-2 Centerboard The C&C 40 is a True Classic 40 foot yacht that has timeless lines and is a joy to sail and "Lickety Split" is a special vessel since she has been in the same family all of its life on the water and spent her first 15 years on Lake Ontario and has always been Maintained to High Standards. She has cruised from Maine to Honduras and spent time in the Caribbean, and Bahamas and has been upgraded and is ready to go cruising with her next owners. "Lickety Split" has never raced and since she has been in SW Florida she has been stored out of the water for 6 months every year.  Here are just some of the Key Features:NEW 2013 Garmin GPS Map 4210 with GMR 18HD Digital RadarNEW 2013 Two GMI 10 instruments pedestal mounted at the helm one for Wind Direction and Speed and the other depth and speedNEW 2013 Simrad AP2402 Auto Pilot Controller with under cockpit linear driveNEW 2013 Xantrex SW2000 Inverter/Charger with remote panel belowNEW 2013 Xantrex Link Lite Battery MonitorFrigoboat Keel Cooled Refrigerator with NEW 2016 EvaporatorICOM IC-M710 RT Single Side Band/Ham HF Radio and Tuner and backstay antennaRepowered in October 1996 with a Yanmar 37 HP 3JH2 engineNewer Genoa and Cruising SpinnakerNEW 2014 Trojan 6 volt 450 amp House Battery BankAmp Air 100 Wind GeneratorThere is Much, Much more click on Full Specifications for all the details :Here is what Practical Sailor had to say about the C&C 40:"...The C&C 40 entered production as a 1978 model, and was phased out in 1983, replaced by the higher performance

1995 Catalina Yachts 400 Winged Keel

New Port Richey, Florida

Make Catalina Yachts

Model 400 Winged Keel

The 40 is equally beautiful in less apparent areas such as the carefully engineered fiberglass sub-sole structural grid and well-planned electrical mechanical and plumbing systems. the cabins are naturally lighted and ventilated by skylights hatches and ports. the master aft cabin features king berth under-berth storage and hanging lockers. Rigging is stout and easy to keep tuned for optimal performance. the owner wants this to be the next Catalina 40 sold and priced her accordingly. swivel anchor lift 15 400 lbs B.L. the large aft cockpit with twin wheels is functional ergonomically correct and beautiful. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale price change or withdrawal without notice. 1995 Catalina Yachts 400 Winged Keel Location: Marco Island FL US (LOCATION: Marco Island FL) the Catalina 40 was built to accentuate style performance and comfort. 964412 (2014) New main sheet block w/cam (2014) New bilge float switch (2014) New bottom paint zincs and line cutter (Nov 2014) (2 ea) New Jabsco Twist-n-lock manual toilets (2013) West Marine 8’6” inflatable dingy (New 2009) Tohatsu 2-cycle 3.5 hp outboard Screens for all hatches ports and companionway 18” Portable rail mounted SS Magma Propane grill (8 ea) New seals for ALL Lewmar opening ports (2013) (2 ea) New Fire Extinguishers w/brackets (2013) Buffed and waxed hull and top sides (Jan 2015) Salesman's Notes Just completely polished and detailed Bottom recently done and line cutter added A supply of spare parts Spinnaker in sock West Marine dinghy with outboard is included Disclaimer the Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. Varnished teak ash and coordinated fabrics complement the custom countertops and durable textured overhead. the Catalina has become the choice of sailors worldwide. Overview the exciting Catalina 40 represents a high point in the modern evolution of performance cruising boat design. the interior is good-looking with teak & holly sole and extremely comfortable. Sailboats Cruiser 8536 PSN . the L-shaped galley is located aft and is equipped with a stainless steel three-burner range with oven top and front loading refrigerators microwave oven and cabinets with solid surface counter top and stainless steel double sinks There are two private cabins. the accommodations are the finest in her class. the aft head compartment has vanity and shower. This Catalina is well equipped professionally maintained and is ready to sail. Auxiliary power is provided by a Westerbeke 42-hp diesel engine. the salon is open with facing settees and two ottoman. A buyer should instruct his agents or his surveyors to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This Catalina 40 is perfect for a weekend getaway or a cruise to the islands. On deck we have a spacious cockpit with bimini top & dodger cushioned seating cockpit table and dual helm. Accommodations Two stateroom layout Master aft cabin with king berth full standing headroom forward and solid privacy door Aft head opens to port cabin or main salon with vanity shower wet locker Corian counter tops and Jabsco toilet (New 2013) Full galley Large U-shaped seating area with ottomans (converts to additional double bed - Owner has stored the table base and support structure in climate controlled storage) Nav station with chart table and swivel chair Long sofa to port – doubles as single berth Forward guest cabin with ensuite head vanity shower and Corian counters Reverse cycle MarineAir HVAC with digital controls (New 2014) Ample storage Teak & Holly sole   Galley White cabinets with teak trim and Corian counter tops Ample storage Stainless steel double sink Adler Barbour freezer and top/front loading refrigerator Three-burner Seaward gas range with oven – 5# aluminum propane tank (deck locker) Magic Chef 600w microwave oven Deck & Hull Large open cockpit with center flip-up table and closed cell cushions Perimeter seating with under-seat storage Dual helm pedestals with stainless steel wheels Walk through transom with boarding ladder Swim platform with dual lockers Maxwell 800 Electric Windlass (New solenoid with New up and New down foot switches 2014) Large foredeck anchor locker Aluminum toe rails Aft shore water connection Cockpit shower with Hot /Cold water Mechanical & Electrical 42-hp Westerbeke engine (Serviced 2013) 2700 Hours MarineAir HVAC (New 2014) Xantrax charging system with digital display at Nav Station (New 2014) Adler Barbour Cold Machine refrigeration and freezer (2 ea) Freshwater flushed Jabsco heads (New 2013) Horizon VHF at Nav Station Raymarine ST60 Wind at cockpit table pedestal Paymarine ST60 Depth at cockpit table pedstal Dual Ritchie Compass at each helm Hurth ZF150 transmission Racor Fuel Filter Dripless Shaft Log 3 Blade 18 x 10.65 prop (New 2008) Automatic bilge pump (New float switch 2013) 11 gallon Seaward water heater w/engine heat exchange 30 amp shore service w/custom 75 ft shore power cord (New 2014) Additional Equipment and Updates New MarineAir 8 000 BTU A/C (2014) New Alder Barbour Cold machine refrigerator compressor (2014) New Adler Barbour Cold machine freezer compressor (2014) New Xantrex Battery Monitor & digital controls at Nav station (2014) New solenoid and up/down foot switches for windlass (2014) New H.D. the forward guest stateroom has V-berth under-berth storage and hanging locker. Call now to schedule a showing of this wonderful 40' Catalina. the galley is equipped for serious cooking without compromise. Forward head has mirrored vanity with sink and shower. This sloop-rigged cruiser has mainsail genoa aluminum mast and boom stainless steel rigging and Lewmar self-tailing winches...

30' 1987 Catalina Mark II

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Please contact boat owner John at 215-284-6333. Catalina 30 Mark II -- built in 1987. She is a Tall Rig with Bow Sprite and Wing Keel. This boat has been well maintained and significantly upgraded throughout. This sale includes full sailboat documentation, and the sailboat has a clean title. The sailboat (inside and out) is in real nice condition, and show only normal wear for a sailboat of its age. The sailboat has seen lots of maintenance, upgrades and replacements. She starts, runs, motors, and sails very nicely. The fiberglass interior and interior wood trim are all in good condition. The interior has matching blue seat cushions throughout, and are in good condition (non-smoker owner). A newer 12 volt low level cabin lighting systems both white and red colors was installed throughout the sailboat ('09 Season). The Catalina 30 is one of only 24 sailboats inducted into the Sail America, American Sailboat Hall of Fame. The C30 joins this venerable group of sailing yachts, based upon its sheer excellence as a cruiser / racer sailboat. We love it for its generous interior size, and comfortable cruising ability. See the web link http://www.sailamerica.com/halloffame/catalina30.asp for more information. The sailboat is a Tall Rig Mast (mast rewired '10 season), with Bow Sprite, and a Wing Keel (wing keel drafts only 3'10") so she can get in and out of shallow water easily. Original Main Sail (serviced and repaired) and has a 135 North Sail Jib, mounted on twin track, Harken III Roller Furling, Main Sail has a blue Sumbrella rollup sail cover and the Jib has a Sumbrella rollup cover installed to the Jib. The sailboat is setup up with single handed rigging controls (all lines lead to cockpit), with two extra winches. The front deck includes an electric anchor capstan winch with a foot switch. The sailboat has 2 large anchors, a large hinged plow anchor (primary) and a large Danforth type anchor as well. Both with 20'chain and 150' long rodes. The engine is a well serviced, very dependable M-25 XP 3-Cylinder Universal Diesel (25hp) engine in good working condition. The engine has been serviced and upgraded, w/new glow plugs (as well as glow plug and starter relays) installed for easy quick starting. The sailboat runs on diesel fuel from an 18 Gallon Aluminum Fuel Tank. Propeller has been upgraded with a two-blade folding Mar-Tec bronze sailing propeller (installed '09 season). Significant amount of new wiring 120v/12 throughout the entire boat (professionally rewired), including the addition of multiple additional 120v (10) and 12 (5) lighting stations throughout boat, a newly upgraded with a heavy duty battery wiring system and significantly upgraded heavy duty 12 volt systems behind original wiring panel. 2 new Group 27 batteries deep cycle batteries installed ('13 season). Shipwright in-line dual bank 110v battery charger with automatic relay disconnects from the main electrical buss. Additional 12 volt wiring and switching for a 12 volt inverter, and third battery was partially completed, but not fully installed. 2 - 12 volt inverters are included (small 200 watt, and large 850 watt). 30-amp shore power system with on-board GFI system includes 50'-30A shore power cord, 30 amp cable adapter to 120v plug included. All 120v outlets throughout the sailboat have been replaced with new devices and stainless steel cover plates. A nice clean bathroom (with both bright 120 volt lighting and 12 volt white/red lighting) has on-demand electric pressurized hot and cold water sink and shower. Well maintained marine toilet in good working condition with functional 20 gallon waste holding tank and new macerator pump (installed '11 Season). A well-lit galley kitchen includes twin sinks (a custom wooden cover panel for a sink to provide more counter space), new single lever pull out type sink faucet, with on-demand 12 volt electric Hot/cold pressurized water system, installed a new on-demand water pump with auto pressure shutoff ('10 Season), two fresh water holding tanks, 20 gallon Starboard fresh water tank, and 30 gallon optional nose tank, twin source (120v or engine) 6 gallon hot water heater for hot water. For cooking there is a working 2 burner CNG stove/oven combination, with a 12 volt electric tank shutoff valve. The sailboat's galley also includes a large custom countertop burner cover for additional counter space or cooler holder. The galley also includes a large built in ice box and a countertop microwave oven for quick cooking. Large interior salon includes custom interior cabinetry, such as an extra cocktail table, custom communications center which includes VHF Radio, with remote VHF RAM Mike, and an AM/FM/CD Player with remote, with ported, wall mounted custom made speaker cabinets and external cockpit speakers (ready for replacement). The salon also includes a wall mounted tide clock and ships clock. All Horizon VHF Two-Way Radio, Garmin GPS, Garmin Fish/Depth Finder, and Pioneer Stereo (easy direct MP-3 hookup to stereo through patch cord) are either 3 or 4 year's old. All exterior lighting switching was rerouted to the helm. Added mast mounted spreader bar lights for night time sail handling and or anchoring, Mast fully rewired ('11 Season), w/new quick connect base connections. LED lighting added to the port cockpit lazzerette. All internal halyards (replaced '10 season) lead back to the cockpit for sail handling, rope and pulley boom vang included. Two extra winches added to the cockpit for jib control from the helm. T-Shaped cockpit with Garmin GPS and Garmin Fish Finder, Rear Swim Ladder with Split Back Rail, 32" chrome Destroyer Wheel steering, Custom wooden Helm Box, cockpit table, Edison pedestal steering with new custom bronze engine throttle and transmission control levers and new control cable systems (installed in '10 Season), compass is dry, includes emergency tiller, cockpit whale manual hand pump, Split back-stay with rope and pulley back-stay tensioner, also included is an older style, but functional Edison Wheel Auto Pilot (needs new replacement floor mounted bracket). All internal halyards (replaced two seasons ago) lead back to the cockpit for sail handling, rope and pulley boom-vang. Other equipment not listed includes any other boat contents (to be sold with boat) digital weather station, CO2 Detector, miscellaneous boat part spares, bumpers, boat cushions, orange life jackets, dock lines and other rope cordage, new 25' fresh water hose and fresh water tank filling adapter, radar/day signal reflector, safety lines, mosquito netting, safety flares/flare gun kit, Jib installation tracking guide, 120 volt trouble lamp, emergency VHF antenna(s), a bosun's chair for climbing the mast, 2 fire extinguishers, hatch umbrella, wind sock for front hatch, custom made ceiling mounted fishing rod holders, window screens for port windows, two winch handles, mast storage support rack, other items not listed. As stated in the ad, the boat is located in Philadelphia PA at Quaker City Yacht Club and currently setup for winter storage with the mast lowered and on top of the sailboat . The sailboat is available for inspection by appointment only. For inspection, call John.

16' Prindle Sailboat

Commerce Twp, Michigan

Up for sale is my 16' Prindle. The main sale is multi colored and in very good shape considering this is not a new boat, the jib is solid Yellow. The Boats pontoons are in very good shape with no soft spots. The Trailer is Aluminum and also in good shape and has bearing buddies installed. I have not sailed in years but have sailed extensively on both this prindle and other sailboats. The 16 Prindle handles the heavy wind far better than a hobie and very importantly can be self righted when/if you flip it by just one person. This point can not be overstated you dont want to be stranded in the middle of the lake because you are sailing an 18' It will take a weekend to clean up and to do the intisl setup. On a prindle each rudder is raised and lowered manually and independantly of the other by two different lines, for a total of four four foot lines. These lines are about three to four feet long each. These lines are available at lowes or home depot in the rope section and cost a total under $10.00. It is easy with just a coat hanger to re-line your rudders in about 20 minutes and is part of good maitenance to do on who evers prindle you adopt. Besides this just a good overall cleaning and waxing much like you would your car. The trailer has Michigan plates but the tabs are expired. I contacted secretary of state today and was told that boats under 20' in Michigan do not have title but just a bill of sale, please feel free to confirm this independantly with the Michigan Secretary of State office. All the other ropes and block along with the main and jib sails and the boom, Mast and cables, have been stored inside and are in excellent condition. I am no longer including the trampoline so you will have to buy a new one. This is good because new trampolines are so much better than the original trampolines that came with these boats. The reason is you tend to slide across these tramps very often as you move from port to starboard under the boom and vice versa and nothing is worse than the original trampoline for this or a modern trampoline with burs/small inperfections. You also want a trampoline that will be smooth to slide across without any obstacles in the mat ie Straps, Gromets, Rope and in my opinion rope pockets. See Aromic Tarp Website for 16' Prindle Mats. http://www.atomictarp.com/catamaran_trampolines?id=catamaran_trampolines&bas=&categories=4 The prindle is at my home on commerce lake in Commerce Township, MI. It is loaded on its aluminum trailer in my driveway. $650 firm 248-266-2045 or 248-894-6387 Emailing is the easiest way to reach me, I check my email often thru out the day and can respond to any questions quickly.

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

El Cajon, California

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.

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2011 Chaparral 216 SSi

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Standard Equipment

• Hand laid fiberglass hull and deck
• Shoal draft keep w/fiberglass center board
• Structural molded fiberglass liner
• Lead ballasted, self-righting design
• Kick-up fiberglass and aluminum rudder
• Laminated mahogany and ash tiller
• Molded in non-skid deck surface
• 6'4" self bailing cockpit
• Fuel tank locker
• Cockpit seat locker
• Sliding companionway hatch
• Molded in toerail
• 4-6" mooring cleats
• Shear stripe
• Waterline stripe
• Stainless steel bow rail, stern rail, stanchions
• and boarding ladder
• Stainless steel, kick up motor mount
• Stainless steel bow eye
• Teak wood trim
• 4-opening cabin windows
• Aluminum opening forward hatch
• Hinged mast step
• Anodized mast and boom
• Stainless steel standing rigging
• Split back stay
• Cockpit lead halyards
• Open body turnbuckles w/toggles
• Dacron running rigging
• "Harken" ball bearing blocks
• Berths for 4 adults
• Deluxe 3" fabric cushions
• Backrest cushions
• Upholstered cabin headliner
• Molded storage lockers
• Cabin storage shelves
• 48 quart ice chest w/teak step
• Electrical system W/ navigation and cabin lights
• Battery box
• Space for Porta Potti
• Dacron main and jib sails
• Limited 5 year warranty

Notice: All pricing subject to change without notice, FOB Palmetto, Florida. Prices do not include transportation to the dealer, state & local taxes, dealer preparation (commissioning) bottom paint, ground tackle or safety gear. Please consult with your authorized Precision dealer to select and budget for these additional items.

Ventura Sport Boats

Pocket Cruising Sailboats

A Fun, Affordable Pocket Cruiser

Hailed as a Modern Classic

The Malbec 18 has been hailed as a modern classic by the sailing press and small boat aficionados alike. Nominated as a Best Boat for 2018 by SAIL Magazine and praised as “charming…fun and responsive” by Cruising World, the Malbec 18 blends performance with comfort, stability, and versatility. It has twice appeared on CBS’ “The Price is Right.”

Great Performance

This lightweight, beachable cruiser offers a huge six-foot cockpit with seating for six adults, and features a spacious, airy cabin that sleeps a family of four. That makes the Malbec 18 the perfect boat for experienced sailors looking to right-size from larger or smaller boats, and its safe, forgiving sailing characteristics make it ideal for newbies, too.

As a spritely performer, the Malbec 18 would make a superb one-design club racer. As a first family boat, it’s easy to handle for the youngest hands.

Created by a leading marine architect and the former manufacturer of the wildly-popular West Wight Potter and Voyager 20, the Malbec 18 hull design features hard chines for great aquadynamics at heel, and semi-planing at higher speeds. The most experienced sailors will appreciate its excellent pointing ability, and zippy off-the-wind performance.

Control and Safety

Stability, control, and modern ergonomics are crucial to a good pocket cruising experience. The ballasted swing centerboard can be controlled from the cockpit for simple singlehanding, beaching, and trailering. An adjustable backstay enables performance tuning, and because most of the ballast is not in the centerboard, the boat offers high a stability ratio under all circumstances.

You can confidently take the Malbec 18 on any lake, wide river, or bay—then out onto the ocean for coastal cruising.

Comfortable and Airy Cabin

Decades of experience in designing pocket cruisers have gone into laying out a cabin which is surprisingly roomy for a compact, 18-foot boat. The oversized companionway hatch opens much of the cabin roof to standing room, the V-berth is bright and comfortable, and two additional sleeping berths double as cushioned bench seating for the convertible dinette table. A hideaway portable head comes standard, and a slide-away galley is available as an option. You will find lots of storage both fore and aft.

Easy Trailering and Setup

Trailering the Malbec 18 is a breeze with a four-cylinder automobile. The optional, custom trailer rides low into the water, and the boat draws just 10 inches with the swing centerboard raised. The mast-raising  and brand-name rigging systems can be handled in minutes by a single person. On the road, you can use the Malbec 18 as your own easily handled and easily parked RV!

Custom Tailored for You!

The Malbec 18 is entirely manufactured in the USA at our Oxnard, California factory, and each boat is tailored specifically to your needs, with a wide range of options. To make ordering easy, three options packages are available to suit any budget—making the Malbec 18 the new, affordable pocket cruising standard for easy “fun in the sun.”

Discover or re-discover the simple joy of sailing when wind fills the sails of this beautifully-designed and responsive boat. Find new adventures wherever a boat ramp awaits!

Contact us for pricing and more info!

Malbec 18   2022 MSRP  “Sail Away” From:  $39,995.00  

• Beachable Pocket Cruiser with sleeping accommodations for four
• Complete  Sail Control fittings, Halyards and Lines
• Featured Ronstan Hardware
• 5oz White Mainsail and 100% Jib with Malbec Logo
• Swing Ballasted Centerboard with Cockpit Mounted Lifting Control
• Removable Rudder and Tiller with Mast Crutch
• Spacious 6 Foot Cockpit with Room for Six Adults
• 13×23 Transom Mounted Storage Hatch
• Open and Airy Cabin with V Berth for Two and Two Quarter Berths
• Forward Opening Hatch by Bomar
• Premium Marine Vinyl Covered Cabin Cushions
• Ample Storage Below
• Optional Slide-out Porta-Potty tucks away for storage
• Optional Slide-out Ice Chest tucks away
• Custom Fitted Trailer Galvanized or Aluminum
• Stainless Steel Bow Pulpit
• Stainless Steel Cockpit Rails
• Stainless Steel Boarding Ladder
• Adjustable  Motor Mount Bracket
• Single Handed Package

Make Your Boat Special, With Options from Trailer to Spinnaker! Click Here for the Complete Options List

Malbec 18 specifications.

Length Overall………………………. 18’

Length at Waterline…………….. 16’

Beam……………………………………….. 7’2”

Draft………………………………………… 10” to 3’6”

Cabin Height………………………… 4’6”

Mast length………………………….. 23’

Mast height………………………….. 26’

Boat Weight……………………….. 1500 lbs

Centerboard Weight………… 90 lbs

Additional Lead Ballast……350 lbs

Main Sail…………………………….. 102 SqFt

Jib………………………………………….. 55 SqFt

Optional Genoa…………………..98 SqFt

Optional Spinnaker…………….120SqFt

Power…………………………………. Up to 9HP Outboard

Electrical……………………………..See available options

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20 Best Small Sailboats for the Weekender

• By Mark Pillsbury
• Updated: August 4, 2021

In order to go cruising, most of us require a sailboat with a head, a galley, and bunks. The boat, likely a 30-footer and more often a 40-footer, will have electronics for navigation and entertainment, refrigeration if the trip is longer than a coastal hop, an engine for light wind, and, depending on our appetites for food and fun, perhaps a genset to power our toys and appliances.

To go sailing , however, all we really need is a hull, mast, rudder, and sail. To experience the pure joy of sheeting in and scooting off across a lake, bay, or even the open ocean, there’s nothing better than a small sailboat – we’re talking sailboats under 25 feet. You can literally reach out and touch the water as it flows past. You instantly feel every puff of breeze and sense every change in trim.

Some of the boats in this list are new designs, others are time-tested models from small sailboat manufacturers, but every one is easy to rig, simple to sail, and looks like a whole lot of fun either for a solo outing on a breezy afternoon or to keep family and friends entertained throughout your entire sailing season. This list is made up of all types of sailboats , and if you’re looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats for beginners, you’ll find exactly that here.

Any one of these popular boats could be labeled as a trailerable sailboat, daysailer, or even a weekender sailboat. And while most would be labeled as a one or two person sailboat, some could comfortably fit three or even four people.

Marblehead 22 Daysailer

If you have an eye for elegant lines and your heart goes pitter-patter over just the right amount of overhang beneath a counter transom, the Marblehead 22 daysailer, designed by Doug Zurn and built by Samoset Boatworks in Boothbay, Maine, will definitely raise your pulse. Traditional-looking above the waterline and modern beneath, the cold-molded hull sports a deep bulb keel and a Hall Spars carbon-fiber mast with a wishbone rig and square-top main. The 11-foot-9-inch cockpit can seat a crowd, and a small cuddy forward will let you stow your friends’ gear for the day. samosetboatworks.com

Catalina 22 Sport

Many a harbor plays host to an active fleet of Catalina 22s, one of the most popular small sailboats over the years, given its basic amenities and retractable keel, which allows it to be easily trailered. Recently, the company introduced the Catalina 22 Sport, an updated design that can compete with the older 22s. The boat features a retractable lead keel; a cabin that can sleep four, with a forward hatch for ventilation; and a fractional rig with a mainsail and a roller-furling jib. Lifelines, a swim ladder, and an engine are options, as are cloth cushions; vinyl cushions are standard. The large cockpit will seat a crowd or let a mom-and-pop crew stretch out and enjoy their sail. It’s clear why the Catalina 22 is one of the best sailboats under 25 feet. catalinayachts.com

With its large, open-transom cockpit and sloop rig, the Hunter 22 makes a comfortable daysailer for family and friends. But with its cuddy cabin, twin bunks, optional electrical system, opening screened ports, and portable toilet, a parent and child or a couple could comfortably slip away for an overnight or weekend. Add in the optional performance package, which includes an asymmetric spinnaker, a pole, and a mainsheet traveler, and you could be off to the races. The boat features a laminated fiberglass hull and deck, molded-in nonskid, and a hydraulic lifting centerboard. Mount a small outboard on the stern bracket, and you’re set to go. marlow-hunter.com

Not sure whether you want to race, cruise or just go out for an afternoon sail? Since 1958, sailors have been having a ball aboard the Uffa Fox/George O’Day-designed Daysailer. Fox, who in the 1950s was on the cutting edge of planning-dinghy design, collaborated with Fall River, Massachusetts boatbuilder O’Day Corp. to build the 16-foot Daysailer, a boat that features a slippery hull and a small cuddy cabin that covers the boat roughly from the mast forward. Thousands of Daysailers were built by various builders, and they can be found used for quite affordable prices. There are active racing fleets around the US, and new Daysailers are still in production today, built by Cape Cod Ship Building. capecodshipbuilding.com

BayRaider from Swallow Boats

Easy to rig and trailer, the BayRaider from England’s Swallow Yachts is a relative newcomer to the small-boat market in the United States. Nearly all of its 19 feet 9 inches is open cockpit, though a spray hood can be added to keep the forward sections dry. The BayRaider is ketch-rigged with a gunter-style mainmast. The topmast and mizzen are both carbon-fiber, which is an option for the mainmast as well. The BayRaider can be sailed with a dry hull in lighter conditions or with 300 pounds of water ballast to increase its stability. With the centerboard and hinged rudder raised, the boat can maneuver in even the thinnest water.

$28,900, (904) 234-8779, swallowyachts.com

Big fun can come in small packages, especially if your vessel of choice happens to be the 12 ½-foot Beetle Cat. Designed by John Beetle and first built in 1921, the wooden shallow draft sailboat is still in production today in Wareham, Massachusetts at the Beetle Boat Shop. With a draft of just 2 feet, the boat is well-suited for shallow bays, but equally at home in open coastal waters. The single gaff-rigged sail provides plenty of power in light air and can be quickly reefed down to handle a blow. In a word, sailing a Beetle Cat is fun. beetlecat.com

West Wight Potter P 19

With berths for four and a workable galley featuring a cooler, a sink, and a stove, West Wight Potter has packed a lot into its 19-foot-long P 19. First launched in 1971, this is a line of boats that’s attracted a true following among trailer-sailors. The P 19′s fully retractable keel means that you can pull up just about anywhere and go exploring. Closed-cell foam fore and aft makes the boat unsinkable, and thanks to its hard chine, the boat is reportedly quite stable under way. westwightpotter.com

NorseBoat 17.5

Designed for rowing and sailing (a motor mount is optional), the Canadian-built NorseBoat 17.5—one of which was spotted by a CW editor making its way through the Northwest Passage with a two-man crew—features an open cockpit, a carbon-fiber mast, and a curved-gaff rig, with an optional furling headsail set on a sprit. The lapstrake hull is fiberglass; the interior is ply and epoxy. The boat comes standard with two rowing stations and one set of 9-foot oars. The boat is designed with positive flotation and offers good load-carrying capacity, which you could put to use if you added the available canvas work and camping tent. NorseBoats offers a smaller sibling, the 12.5, as well; both are available in kit form.

$19,000, (902) 659-2790, norseboat.com

Montgomery 17

Billed as a trailerable pocket cruiser, the Montgomery 17 is a stout-looking sloop designed by Lyle Hess and built out of fiberglass in Ontario, California, by Montgomery Boats. With a keel and centerboard, the boat draws just under 2 feet with the board up and can be easily beached when you’re gunkholing. In the cuddy cabin you’ll find sitting headroom, a pair of bunks, a portable toilet, optional shore and DC power, and an impressive amount of storage space. The deck-stepped mast can be easily raised using a four-part tackle. The builder reports taking his own boat on trips across the Golfo de California and on visits to California’s coastal islands. Montgomery makes 15-foot and 23-foot models, as well. If you’re in search of a small sailboat with a cabin, the Montgomery 17 has to be on your wish list.

With long overhangs and shiny brightwork, the CW Hood 32 is on the larger end of the daysailer spectrum. Designers Chris Hood and Ben Stoddard made a conscious decision to forego a cabin and head in favor of an open cockpit big enough to bring 4 or 5 friends or family out for an afternoon on the water. The CW Hood 32 is sleek and graceful through the water and quick enough to do some racing, but keeps things simple with a self-tacking jib and controls that can be lead back to a single-handed skipper. A top-furling asymmetrical, electric sail drive and Torqeedo outboard are all optional. The CW Hood 32 makes for a great small family sailboat.  cwhoodyachts.com

Sun Cat from Com-Pac

Shallow U.S. East Coast bays and rock-strewn coasts have long been graced by cat boats, whose large, gaff-rigged mainsails proved simple and powerful both on the wind and, better yet, when reaching and running. The 17-foot-4-inch Sun Cat, built by Com-Pac Yachts, updates the classic wooden cat with its fiberglass hull and deck and the easy-to-step Mastender Rigging System, which incorporates a hinged tabernacle to make stepping the mast a one-person job. If you want a personal sailboat ideal for solo sailing, the Sun Can is a great choice. Belowdecks, the twin 6-foot-5-inch berths and many other features and amenities make this cat a willing weekender.

$19,800, (727) 443-4408, com-pacyachts.com

Catalina 16.5

The Catalina 16.5 sits right in the middle of Catalina Yachts’ line of small sailboats, which range from the 12.5 to the 22 Capri and Sport, and it comes in both an easy-to-trailer centerboard model and a shoal-draft fixed-keel configuration. With the fiberglass board up, the 17-foot-2-inch boat draws just 5 inches of water; with the board down, the 4-foot-5-inch draft suggests good windward performance. Hull and deck are hand-laminated fiberglass. The roomy cockpit is self-bailing, and the bow harbors a good-sized storage area with a waterproof hatch. catalinayachts.com

No roundup of best small sailboats (trailerable and fun too) would be complete without a mention of the venerable Hobie 16, which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969. The company has introduced many other multihulls since, but more than 100,000 of the 16s have been launched, a remarkable figure. The Hobie’s asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam hulls eliminate the need for daggerboards, and with its kick-up rudders, the 16 can be sailed right up to the beach. Its large trampoline offers lots of space to move about or a good place to plant one’s feet when hanging off the double trapezes with a hull flying. The boat comes with a main and a jib; a spinnaker, douse kit, trailer, and beach dolly are optional features. hobiecat.com

Novice sailors or old salts looking for simplicity could both enjoy sailing the Hunter 15. With a fiberglass hull and deck and foam flotation, the boat is sturdily built. The ample freeboard and wide beam provide stability under way, and the heavy-duty rubrail and kick-up rudder mean that you won’t have to worry when the dock looms or the going grows shallow. Both the 15 and its slightly larger 18-foot sibling come standard with roller-furling jibs.

$6,900/$9,500 (boat-show prices for the 15 and 18 includes trailers), (386) 462-3077, marlow-hunter.com

Super Snark

Under various owners, the Snark brand of sailboats, now built by Meyers Boat Co., has been around since the early 1970s. The Super Snark, at 11 feet, is a simple, easily car-topped daysailer that’s fit out with a lateen rig and sail. Billed as unsinkable, the five boats in the company’s line are built with E.P.S. foam, with the external hull and deck vacuum-formed to the core using an A.B.S. polymer. The Super Snark weighs in at 50 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 310 pounds, the boat can carry two.

$970, (800) 247-6275, meyersboat.com

Norseboat 21.5

Built in Canada, the NorseBoat 21.5 is a rugged looking craft that comes in a couple of configurations: one with an open cockpit and small doghouse, and another with a smaller cockpit and cabin that houses a double berth for two adults and optional quarter berths for the kids. Both carry NorseBoat’s distinctive looking carbon fiber gaff-rigged mast with main and jib (a sprit-set drifter is optional), and come with a ballasted stub keel and centerboard. Because of its lightweight design, the boat can be rowed and is easily trailered.

$36,000 (starting), 902-659-2790, norseboat.com

Flying Scot

Talk about time-tested, the 19-foot Flying Scot has been in production since 1957 and remains a popular design today. Sloop rigged, with a conventional spinnaker for downwind work, the boat is an easily sailed family boat as well as a competitive racer, with over 130 racing fleets across the U.S. Its roomy cockpit can seat six to eight, though the boat is often sailed by a pair or solo. Hull and deck are a fiberglass and balsa core sandwich. With the centerboard up, the boat draws only eight inches. Though intended to be a daysailer, owners have rigged boom tents and berths for overnight trips, and one adventurous Scot sailor cruised his along inland waterways from Philadelphia to New Orleans.

Known primarily for its line of racing dinghys, RS Sailing also builds the 16-foot, 4-inch Venture, which it describes as a cruising and training dinghy. The Venture features a large, self-draining cockpit that will accommodate a family or pack of kids. A furling jib and mainsail with slab reefing come standard with the boat; a gennaker and trapeze kit are options, as is an outboard motor mount and transom swim ladder. The deck and hull are laid up in a fiberglass and Coremat sandwich. The Venture’s designed to be both a good performer under sail, but also stable, making it a good boat for those learning the sport.

$14,900, 203-259-7808, rssailing.com

Topper makes a range of mono- and multihull rotomolded boats, but the model that caught one editor’s eye at Strictly Sail Chicago was the Topaz Taz. At 9 feet, 8 inches LOA and weighing in at 88 pounds, the Taz is not going to take the whole crowd out for the day. But, with the optional mainsail and jib package (main alone is for a single child), the Taz can carry two or three kids or an adult and one child, and would make a fun escape pod when tied behind the big boat and towed to some scenic harbor. The hull features Topper’s Trilam construction, a plastic and foam sandwich that creates a boat that’s stiff, light, and durable, and shouldn’t mind being dragged up on the beach when it’s time for a break.

$2,900 (includes main and jib), 410-286-1960, topazsailboats.com

WindRider WRTango

WRTango, a fast, sturdy, 10-foot trimaran that’s easy to sail, is the newest portable craft from WindRider International. It joins a line that includes the WR16 and WR17 trimarans. The Tango features forward-facing seating, foot-pedal steering, and a low center of gravity that mimics the sensation of sitting in a kayak. It weighs 125 pounds (including the outriggers and carbon-fiber mast), is extremely stable, and has single-sheet sail control. The six-inch draft and kick-up rudder make it great for beaching, while the hull and outriggers are made of rotomolded polyethylene, so it can withstand running into docks and being dragged over rocks.

$3,000, 612-338-2170, windrider.com

• More: 21 - 30 ft , Boat Gallery , day sailing , dinghy , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , under 20 ft
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• $18,000,000

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Where to Buy a Home in Moscow in 2024

The growth in suburban house prices in 2021 can be as high as 15%. This prognosis was voiced by the participants of Moscow’s real estate market. Housing near Moscow has already gone up in value by 7%, and before the end of the year, this number is quite likely to rise by another 2–3%. The pandemic has changed the trends on the suburban real estate market – the current demand for detached houses is noticeably higher than before the global outbreak of Covid-19, and this naturally influences the cost of residential homes, say the experts. They also note that traditionally, the fall-winter period has always been considered a time of low demand for houses for sale in Russia; however, the opposite is now the case.

Here are the Moscow real estate categories to consider when buying a house in Russia:

• By direction and location (Rublyovka, Novaya Riga, Barvikha);
• By classification ( luxury , business class, economy);
• By development format (townhouses, detached private homes).

When purchasing homes in Moscow, Russia, a good rule of thumb is to select houses within an 18.6-mile (30 km) radius from the center of Moscow. This ensures you will get a well-developed infrastructure, and that the chosen location will be replete with hospitals and schools.

We recommend considering the West, South and North directions just out of Moscow. You may notice that country houses are noticeably cheaper on the capital’s Eastern side. However, this is due to poor environmental conditions – the result of the presence of a number of industrial facilities in the entire East area.

Best Cottage Communities in Moscow

Muscovites with high incomes live in closed elite cottage communities that have their own full infrastructure. Such cottage communities are usually designed by Europe’s best architects, especially contracted for the job. These locations have everything: private English schools, restaurants, shops, pools and gyms, beauty salons and equestrian sports clubs.

The most expensive houses up for sale are located in the Barvikha Hills area (Rublevka direction). This elite location near Moscow even has its own famous brand boutiques: Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Bentley, Ferrari and Harley-Davidson. The least expensive house here costs 1.5 million US dollars and has a floor area of 656 sqft (200 m²). This gated community is just 10-20 minutes by car away from Moscow itself.

We encourage you to consider some of the following elite locations as you decide where to purchase your ideal property: Etude Family Club, La-Mansh, Western Residence, Yusupovo Life Park, Odintsovo, Novaya Riga and Pirogovo. There you will find everything one requires for a comfortable life, at the price of 300 to 500 thousand US dollars for a residential home.

As you choose your future home, make sure to take into account the category of the land on which it is built. Each category has its own taxation rate. Our lawyer can explain all the details on property taxes in Russia to you at your request. Contact us to get your consultation!

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Sky View Loop Lot 7, Moscow, ID 83843

• 2.51 acre lot 2.51 acre lot

Interested in selling your home?

• Property type Land

Property Details

Property overview, property features.

• Lot Size Acres: 2.51
• Topography: Rolling, Sloped
• Lot Size Square Feet: 109336

Exterior and Lot Features

• Roads: Paved

Home Features

Homeowners association.

• Association: No
• Association Fee Frequency: Monthly
• Calculated Total Monthly Association Fees: 0

Other Property Info

• Annual Tax Amount: 1642.38
• Source Listing Status: Sold
• County: Latah
• Directions: Highway 95 South, turn into Sky View on the right.
• Tax Year: 2016
• Source Property Type: Land
• Area: Moscow - 2070
• Source Neighborhood: Sky View Estates
• Parcel Number: RP018450000070A
• Subdivision: Sky View Estates
• Source System Name: C2C
• Electric: Available
• Gas: Natural Gas

Building and Construction

• Improvements: No
• Structure Type: Land

RealEstimate℠

The following table summarizes the chart by comparing the earliest historic estimate, last year's estimate, and a forecasted projection to this month's current estimate for each valuation provider.

Our home values come from independent valuation providers, whose solutions are used by many financial institutions, insurance companies, and real estate agents. Each valuation provider applies a unique approach and methodology resulting in a range of values that consumers can use as a starting point for discussions with a real estate agent.

Property History

Price history, tax history, neighborhood, facts about sky view loop lot 7.

Commute time: Add a commute

is located in neighborhood in the city of Moscow, ID.

Check out other home values in Sky View Loop, Moscow, ID.

• $350,000 Median listing price
• N/A Median sales price
• 45 Median days on market
• $228 Median price per sqft

Nearby neighborhoods in Moscow, ID

• Lincoln Heights Median listing: $465,000
• Opportunity Median listing: $425,000
• Dishman Median listing: $354,449
• East Spokane Median listing: $399,000

Nearby Home Values

Homes around $721,685.

• 2,838 sqft 2,838 square feet
• 1.14 acre lot 1.14 acre lot

• 1,966 sqft 1,966 square feet
• 0.24 acre lot 0.24 acre lot

• 2,400 sqft 2,400 square feet
• 9,583 sqft lot 9,583 square foot lot

Recently Sold Homes Near Sky View Loop Lot 7

• 924 sqft 924 square feet

• 868 sqft 868 square feet

• 640 sqft 640 square feet

• 0.55 acre lot 0.55 acre lot

• 2,900 sqft 2,900 square feet
• 0.28 acre lot 0.28 acre lot

• 3,232 sqft 3,232 square feet
• 0.27 acre lot 0.27 acre lot

• 3,019 sqft 3,019 square feet
• 0.34 acre lot 0.34 acre lot

• 1,757 sqft 1,757 square feet
• 7,013 sqft lot 7,013 square foot lot

• 4,452 sqft 4,452 square feet
• 0.38 acre lot 0.38 acre lot

• 1,868 sqft 1,868 square feet
• 573.92 acre lot 573.92 acre lot

• 1,680 sqft 1,680 square feet
• 6,939 sqft lot 6,939 square foot lot

See Sky View Loop Lot 7, Moscow, ID 83843, a plot of land. View property details, similar homes, and the nearby school and neighborhood information. Use our heat map to find crime, amenities, and lifestyle data for Sky View Loop Lot 7. The property-related information displayed on this page is obtained from public records and other sources.While such information is thought to be reliable, it is not guaranteed and should be independently verified. Properties labeled Not for Sale are classified as such either because we do not have a record of such properties currently being for sale or because we are not permitted, by contract, law, or otherwise, to designate such properties as currently for sale. For the most accurate and up to date status of this or any other property, please contact a REALTOR®.

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