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Names of Sails on a Sailboat

Are you a beginner sailor and want to get acquainted with the names of the sails? Are you an experienced sailor and want to learn more details about the sails on a sailboat? Then this article is written for you! Sails form a crucial part of the sailboat because without them, there’s no starting up. For that reason, there are many details about different types of sails concerning their utility, functionality, fabrication materials, and performance. Simply put, each sail serves different purposes when out on the water. Since the sail is the engine of your sailboat, in terms of it being the basic source of propulsion, it’s important to know when best to use either type of sail and why.

Types of Sails on a Sailboat

So, in order to better explain the types of sails, let’s look at their characteristics. The first important distinction between sails is their placement. Generally, the mainsail is placed aft of the mast , which means behind. On the contrary, the headsail is in front of the mast. There are also other sorts of sails that are used for specific conditions. These can be the spinnakers or balloon-shaped sails for downwind use. The second important distinction for the sails is their functionality. The specialized sails have different functionalities and are used in different sailing circumstances and weather conditions. A rule about sails is that large sails are appropriate for downwind use, whereas small sails are good for upwind use. Moreover, large sails perform better on weak winds while small sails are good for strong winds.

The Parts of a Sail and its Shapes

• Head: This is the top of the sail.
• Luff: The forward edge of the sail.
• Leech: Back edge of the sail.
• Tack: The lower front corner of the sail.
• Clew: The bottom back corner of the sail.
• Foot: Bottom of the sail.

There are two sail shapes, the fore-and-aft rigged sails, and square-rigged sails. Nowadays, fore-and-aft sails are more popular, have better performance and maneuverability. To grasp the idea square sails are the ones that Vikings had on their ships and are good at sailing downwind because they run from side to side. But they’re not suitable at all when sailing upwind. On the other hand, a fore-and-aft sail is tied from the front of the mast to the stern and is much better at sailing upwind.

Also Read: What is Sailboat Rigging?

Types and Names of Sails

There are a lot of reasons why you’d want to put one sail over another, but the most important thing to remember has to do with the point of your sail and the wind strength. These points help you understand how your sailboat generates wind power. These points of sail include: into the wind (in irons), beam-reaching, broad-reaching, close-hauled, close-reaching, and running. They all go from windward to leeward and are symmetric from port to starboard . So, let’s get to the point and see the names and explanation of each sail:

• Mainsail : The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and the boom, is called the mainsail. Mainsails cover a lot of surface area concerning incoming winds and by doing that they don’t need very strong winds to provide forward propulsion on a sailboat.
• Headsail or Jib : The small sail placed in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa), is called the headsail. Headsails are smaller than mainsails, thus their surface area is smaller. As a result, they can’t catch the same wind as a mainsail does. However, this is important because in case that the current wind is strong and the mainsail has been enough trimmed, being able to remove the mainsail and depend on the headsail alone, is a good strategy in order to reduce speed.
• Genoa : A genoa is like a large jib and it’s attached to the front of the forestay, like a headsail. When you use a genoa sail then you are expecting light to medium winds. Also, your sailboat would be somehow in a rush point of sail, meaning that the wind comes directly from the rear. Moreover, the surface area of a genoa sail is quite large, so it’s important to use it when winds are relatively low.
• Spinnaker : These downwind sails are symmetrical which makes them more sensitive to the reaching points of the sail and therefore more suitable for the running point of sail. Spinakkers are lighter than other types of jibs, and they don’t cover the mast like a genoa sail. Moreover, they remain unattached to the forestay and stretch out toward and past the bow of a sailboat.
• Gennaker : Gennakers are a mixture of genoa and spinnaker sails. There are small and big gennakers and both are downwind sails. They aren’t as symmetric as a spinnaker and aren’t attached to the forestay like a headsail. Furthermore, the gennaker sail is able to take on a more flexible point of sail while taking advantage of softer winds.
• Drifter Reacher : A drifter is a light air sail, and it’s basically a larger genoa for use in light winds. Its extra sail area offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It’s mostly made from lightweight nylon. 
• Code Zero Reacher : This sail is a type of spinnaker, but it looks like a large genoa. However, code zero is designed for better reaching which makes it much flatter than the spinnaker.
• Windseeker : This sail is small, and it’s designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the mainsail. Moreover, it’s tall and thin and ensures a smoother flow of air.

Sail and Mast Configurations

Now that you got an idea of the different types of sails on a sailboat, it would also be an advantage to know how these types of sails are related to the configuration of a sailboat’s mast. There are numerous combinations when it comes to sails and mast configurations, let’s see some of them!

• Cat: A cat is similar to a dinghy and has one mast and one sail. The mast is located at the bow of the sailboat.
• Sloop: The sloop has the classic single mast and a double sail setup. The headsail can be different kinds of jibs, is connected with the forestay on the mast, and runs all the way up to the mast.
• Fractional Rig Sloop: A fractional rig sloop is different from the sloop because its forestay doesn’t reach the top of the mast. Its headsail is restricted to a fractional amount of space and this means that less wind can be captured, therefore the speed of the sailboat is reduced.
• Cutter: Having two forestays on the mast and cutters that are able to house two headsails this setup allows easy cruising because it offers a wide combination of points of sail for different strengths of wind.
• Ketch: Just like a sloop the ketch has a mast that enables the mainsail and headsail to a full range forestay. However, it also has a smaller mast between the mainmast and the stern of the sailboat.
• Schooner: A schooner is when a sailboat has two or more masts but it has a couple of sails to manage. A schooner’s aft mast is taller than the forward mast and sometimes a schooner can have up to six masts.

Names of Sails on a Sailboat – Summary

So, how many types of sails are there? In general, sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. The rigging also affects the types of sails you can use. As we’ve explained before, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft Bermuda rig. Then, for a headsail, we use a jib or genoa. Most experienced sailors use extra sails to ensure better performance for their sailboat. For example, the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), the gennaker, the code zero (for upwind use), and the storm sail. Keep in mind that every sail has its own use and performance. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. Don’t just raise any sail you think suits you best and go for it! It’s of great importance to understand the functionality, use, and performance of each sail.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

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Keel and mast positioning, for dummies.

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Kentucky Red , Apr 9, 2013 .

Kentucky Red New Member

Hello, I'm the dummy. I'm designing a 20' sporty daysailer. If you don't want to know anything about it, just skip to the question at the bottom. I've built a cedar strip canoe, but that was too easy, and I love to sail, so a sailboat is my next project. The hull design is basically an Utimate 20 with a 7' beam instead of 8'6", lighter hull, lighter centerboard ballast (250 lb bulb instead of 450), shorter freeboards, and a flatter bottom with 6" radius chines. It is going to have a fractional rig with 250 feet of SA. Trapeze wires will be probably necessary for anything over 10 knot winds. Construction is going to be fiberglass over 1/2" spruce strips and balsa frame. I'm going to use NACA 0012 foils. The whole thing should be about 850 lbs (+ or - 500lbs). It probably won't be worth a darn, but I'm going to give it a try anyway. Anyhow, I'm missing a very basic element of the design, and I'm not sure how to figure it out. I know that the location of the keel and the mast are essential for neutral handling, stability, and so forth, but I don't know how to figure out exactly where they should go. In my sketch, I've got the front of the centerboard in the dead center of the boat - the boat is 20 feet, so the centerboard starts 10 feet back. I figure the centerboard foil should have a chord line of about 14-16 inches, but again, I don't know how to figure that out. I'm planning on putting the mast 18" ahead of the front of the keel, because it seems to look right on the sketch, but I'm not super confident about those placements. TO SUM UP MY QUESTION: Is there a mathematical way to determine the correct placements of the keel and the mast? What happens if the keel is placed too far forward or aft? What happens if the mast is placed too far forward or aft? Thanks folks. Have a great day.  

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

Welcome to the forum. Well, you're right in that, the centerboard and mast placement in relation to each other and the boat is critical, if you expect it to handle properly. Making the changes to the hull and ballast ratio as you've suggested will make one tender *** boat, that's for sure. The relationship of the mast and board location are in reference to the LWL, not the length of the boat. The bow and stern overhangs are essentially ignored. I hope you haven't mounted anything yet, as your centerboard is too far aft at 50%, though this is difficult to say, if the LOD dimension is used. The Ultimate 20 places the chord of the board, about 42% LWL and the mast is about 35%, judging by the drawing shown. These are just eyeball estimates, so don't cut anything. Post some drawings of your proposed changes and strongly consider more ballast, not less. Also with the beam reduction, you're probably going to need to move displaced volume around a bit, to get some bearing and satisfactory lines, for a sport boat. The usual concurrences for these types of changes, is a stronger grasp of sail and hydrodynamics. In your case, an adjustable mast step is a real good idea, so you can move the stick fore and aft as you dial in the best placement. Of course this screws with any staying arrangements you might have, so maybe some tracks for the stays too.  

J Feenstra Junior Member

Kentucky Red said: ↑ TO SUM UP MY QUESTION: Is there a mathematical way to determine the correct placements of the keel and the mast? What happens if the keel is placed too far forward or aft? What happens if the mast is placed too far forward or aft? Thanks folks. Have a great day. Click to expand...

DCockey Senior Member

Kentucky Red said: ↑ ........ TO SUM UP MY QUESTION: Is there a mathematical way to determine the correct placements of the keel and the mast? What happens if the keel is placed too far forward or aft? What happens if the mast is placed too far forward or aft? Thanks folks. Have a great day. Click to expand...

Skyak Senior Member

The reason for 'lead' as discussed above is to account for the driving force of the sailplan hanging out over the water to leeward due to boat heel. It's not that the lead cannot be calculated, it just can't be calculated in 2D. The fact that you are making a tender boat makes the lead calculation difficult but likely manageable. If you use the standard practice you will get decent results while the boat is upright. If you can't keep the boat upright, weather helm is going to be a problem and you have a choice to make -reef earlier and more often, add some ballast, or increase the rudder size and tilt the rig forward. Having a boat that gets a bigger percentage of it's lift from the rudder is not that bad as long as it is operating at an efficient angle. In fact, you are building a race dingy so the rudder proportion SHOULD be more like a dingy than a keel boat, reflecting the additional control you will need to tame the beast you have created.  

Petros Senior Member

why not just copy the mast and keel location of the Ultimate 20? presuming you will be using a similar rig, it should balance in a similar manner. There are varied and complex reason for different rudder and keel sizes, but for small boats the rule of thumb is the keel/dagger board area should be about 5 percent of the sail area, and the rudder about half of that. Make the rudder a lower aspect ratio than the keel so it resists stalls.  

michael pierzga Senior Member

Common adjustable keel root and adjustable foil to bulb detail that allows fine tuning of keel and bulb placement http:// http://  

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif (OK, that didn't work. Anybody know how to attach a photo on this site?) That's the design - not quite the final draft, but a good starting point. Thanks for the information. I'm not a pro and I really appreciate the advice. I know that the lead weight is minimal, but I want to keep the boat light, and I don't mind being out on a wire (I rather enjoy it, actually). Also, the shape of the hull is meant to provide stability in lieu of extra centerboard weight; the flattish bottom and chines should move the center of buoyancy abruptly to the leeward side of the boat when heeled. If it proves to be too much to handle, I'll cast a new centerboard weight for it. My inspiration for this boat came from the Laser SB3/20, but I wanted to be able to hike out. I figured that if you design the boat for hiking, you don't need as much CB weight. It wouldn't surprise me if I'm wrong, but that was my assumption. PETROS - I thought about that, but the U20's CB is canted at an angle, which really complicates the design. Thanks for the 5% rule of thumb; I might even make it a little larger than that because I really want the boat to be able to point upwind. Since you mentioned stalls, I've got a basic question for you. Forgive my ignorance but all of my experience is in aviation. Does a foil in water stall just like a foil in the air? I've always assumed that it doesn't because air is compressible an water is not. SKYAK - Thanks for that info. The boat is going to be more dinghy-like than keelboat-like, so I might want to think about using a larger rudder. DCOCKEY - Wow, sooooo much great information. I'm not even close to finished with reading it all yet, however, I think you're right - I should plan on adjusting the position of the mast once or twice before the boat is done. I'll just keep the mast step on a movable block until I've got the mast positioned right. J - I will. Thanks. PAR - That's really interesting. I never noticed that the CB was so far forward on a U20. If you look at the SB3/SB20 the CB is aft of the Center of the LWL, maybe 55% at the center of the CB. How can 2 boats with similar design and purpose have such different keel arrangements. I can see that the rocker of the U20 hull is moved fore, while the SB has more rocker aft. I'm really just baffled by the whole topic.  

Kentucky Red said: ↑ ......... PETROS - I thought abo...hing to do with compressibility of the fluid. Click to expand...

stall has nothing to do with compressibility, it has do whether the flow is attached at the foil leading edge or not. High aspect ratio surfaces are more efficient in terms of lift to drag ratio, but area also much more stall sensitive. It is easy to stall a rudder by over controlling it and not realize it, so with a lower aspect ratio it makes it more stall resistant. An AR of about 1 will not stall for up to 45 deg angle of attack, but a rudder with an 8 or 10 AR will stall at only 15 deg. not as much an issue with the keel, an efficient high AR keel will allow you point higher (though the stall will be more sudden, you can usually feel it when you push it too far), but if the rudder stalls in rough conditions or with an inexperienced helms man, you can loose control of the boat in a panic situation, you might end up going for a swim at best. I do not think a beam to length ratio of about 3 will make too tender of a boat as PAR thinks, in fact the original design has a rather large beam for typical sailboat. the wider water line beam will come up on plane sooner (less wind) but it will have more drag in light air when in displacement mode. Your change will just make it a better light air performer, especially making it lighter. You also might come up on plane sooner because of the weight savings. What DCockey writes is the way most small sailboats keel/sail plans are located, but they are not that precision. the fluid mechanics of both sail, hull and keel are much more complex, but over the centuries it has been found to be a simple way to approximate it close enough to make it work. Expect to have to fine tune the sail location, mast rake, etc. this too is normal, it is easier to just build it and fine tune it later rather than try and make accurate calculations (too many variables!). You can post pictures by braketing the picture location with "[" and than "img" and than another "]", than paste in the picture location, and follow with "[" and than a "/" and than "img" and than a "]". I can not write it out for you or you will see nothing.  

So, I've decided to make a few changes to this since I drew it up. First of all, the rig needs to change. I was considering using a Hobie Miracle rig that I could scavenge off of an old boat, but I really want to have a backstay to help strengthen the rig and move the shrouds forward and out of the way. I'd like to use an SB3 rig, but the price of the equipment would cause my spouse to blow the whistle. I haven't priced U20 parts yet, but it carries a bit too much sail and again, it has no backstay. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the rig at this point, but I'm taking suggestions. I'm working under the assumption that I am unqualified to design my own rig and sew my own sails. Whatever rig I used is going to be mounted further forward.  

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My assumption for a tender boat is based on a few things, 20% narrower beam, 45% reduction in ballast, the same draft (also assumed) and the same sail area. Hardened bilges or not, she'll likely be tender, certainly in comparison.  

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The Most Popular Types Of Sails On A Sailboat

A sloop-rigged sailboat typically features a mainsail, a headsail, and an additional light-wind sail, such as a spinnaker or Gennaker. The mainsail is rigged aft of the mast, while the headsail is attached to the forestay. The two most commonly used headsails are the Genoa and Jib.

The sails are vital parts of a sailboat since you obviously couldn’t sail without them! There are many different sails depending on the type of sailboat and its rig configuration, and we’ll walk through them together in this article.

The different types of sails on a sailboat

We can divide the selection of sails on a sailboat into three categories:

• Standard sails

Light-wind sails

• Storm sails

Each category serves different purposes depending on the vessel’s rig configuration and the sail’s functionality. 

The standard sails

The standard sails usually form a sailboat’s basic sail plan and include :

• The Mainsail
• The Staysail
• The Mizzen sail

These sails are the ones that are used most frequently on sloop, ketch, and cutter-rigged sailboats and are usually set up to be ready to use quickly.

Headsails are often rolled up on a furler, while the main and mizzen sail are stored on the boom or furled into the mast. 

The halyards and sheets are kept within easy reach, making these sails the primary choice in most situations. Let’s dive further into each of them.

The mainsail is a triangular sail that flies behind the mast on top of the boom . Although it may not always be the largest sail on the vessel, we commonly refer to it as “the main.”

It is a vital sail, and keeping the sail shape trimmed properly on every point of sail is crucial for the stability and performance of the boat.

A Jib sail is a headsail that does not overlap the mainsail. It is typically between 100% and 115% of the foretriangle but can also be smaller. The foretriangle is the triangular area formed by the mast, deck, and forestay. The Jib is often used with a self-tacking system involving a sheet traveler in front of the mast.

This sail is often seen on newer boats with fractional rigs, which typically have a larger mainsail area than the headsail area. However, the Jib is versatile and also used in other configurations.

People often mix the terms Genoa and Jib. Many refer to any headsail as a Jib, which is incorrect. I personally prefer to use the correct terms to avoid confusion .

A Genoa sail resembles a large Jib but extends past the mast and overlaps the mainsail. Genoas are usually larger than 115% of the foretriangle , with sizes ranging from 120% to 150%. They are often used on vessels with masthead rigs and smaller mainsails but are also common on fractional rigs.

The Staysail is typically found on cutter rigs and is set on the inner forestay or cutter stay. It can be combined with other sails, such as a Jib, Genoa, or Yankee, or on its own in stronger winds.

The Staysail is also useful when sailing downwind, as it can be paired with a headsail and extended to opposite sides of the boat using a pole.

The Yankee sail resembles a Genoa and Jib but has a high-cut clew. This shape allows for improved airflow when used with another headsail. The Yankee is often used on cutter-rigged boats in combination with a staysail and is known for its versatility in different wind conditions. 

Mizzen Sail

A mizzen sail is similar to the mainsail, only smaller . It is set on the aft mast of a boat with multiple masts, such as a ketch rig. The mizzen sail is usually used to provide balance and stability to the vessel and provides additional power when sailing downwind.

Another handy usage is to fly the mizzen at anchor to keep the bow up against waves and swell.

The light-wind sails are large, made of thin nylon, and typically shaped like a half-balloon. They are a type of headsails that are great when the winds are too light to fill the standard headsail and are often used when sailing downwind.

The four most commonly used light-wind sails are:

• The Spinnaker
• The Gennaker
• The Code Zero
• The Parasailor

They all provide excellent forward propulsion on a sailboat but usually require some extra rigging to be set. 

Experienced cruisers love to use light-wind sails in nice weather, but they have a critical weakness to be aware of. These sails easily get overpowered when the wind increases, and I strongly advise being careful and observant of the wind conditions when flying them.

(Yes, I have managed to rip mine on one occasion due to getting overpowered, but that’s a different story…)

Let’s continue and take a closer look at each of the light wind sails.

A Spinnaker sail is a large, lightweight downwind sail used at deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees. It is symmetrical in shape with two clews and is often brightly colored. 

The Spinnaker is set by using a pole to extend the sail’s clew to the vessel’s side. Then, a sheet is attached to the other clew and led back to the stern of the boat. 

A Gennaker sail combines the characteristics of the Genoa and Spinnaker. It is made of nylon like the Spinnaker but is asymmetrical like a Genoa and rigged slightly differently. The tack is attached to the bow, and the clew has a sheet led aft to the cockpit. The Gennaker can be equipped with a snuffer to make it even easier to set up and take down.

It is popular among cruisers because it is simpler to use than a spinnaker and it doesn’t require a pole. The sail is effective at angles between 90 degrees and almost all the way down to 180 degrees, making it versatile for various light-wind conditions.

A Parasailor is similar to the Spinnaker in many aspects but has some distinct differences. It has a double-layer wing that inflates as the sail is filled with air, creating a batten-like effect pushing the leech out while providing lift to the bow. 

The wing also helps to prevent the rolling movements you get with a Spinnaker and the collapsing of the leech that can occur with a Gennaker at deep angles.

This makes the parasailor effective at sailing angles between 70 and 180 degrees dead downwind. Parasailors can be set like a Gennaker when reaching or with a pole like the Spinnaker for running downwind.

A Code Zero sail combines some elements of the Genoa and Gennaker. Unlike the Gennaker, the Code Zero has a different shape, allowing it to be used while sailing upwind.

Another benefit is that it can be used with a furler which makes it easy to roll in and out. However, it can’t replace the Gennaker or Spinnaker entirely, as it is not effective at sailing angles deeper than 120 degrees.

If you see a big yacht with three forestay’s, the forward one probably holds a code zero sail. A bow spirit allows the ability to fly additional light wind sails as well!

Storm Sails

The storm sails consist of a small Mainsail and Jib in heavy-duty materials designed for rough conditions. These sails enable us to maintain speed and stability in the boat in severe weather too strong for the standard sails.

Storm sails are often brightly colored , such as red, orange, or yellow, to make them more visible at sea.

Storm Mainsail

A storm mainsail is used when the reefing setup doesn’t allow the standard mainsail area to be reduced enough to prevent overpowering. The sail can handle rough conditions and is excellent for maintaining stability.

A storm Jib is used when the headsail has been furled to the point where it is no longer effective. It is especially useful for sailboats rigged with a Genoa, as the Genoa gets inefficient when heavily reefed. As the storm Jib is smaller than the standard headsail, it also lowers the center of gravity, making the vessel heel less and become more stable.

Explaining the terms for the parts of a sail

Let us talk some more about sails. The goal is to go sailing, right?

Identifying the different parts of the sails is crucial to understanding which lines go where.

Let’s zoom in on a sail and break down the terms :

The head is the top corner of the sail . Most mainsails have a headboard or plate where the halyard is connected, while headsails use a metal ring. A halyard is a line we use to raise and lower sails with.

The leech is the aft part of a sail , located between the clew and head. We use a combination of the outhaul, main sheet, and traveler to trim and adjust the leech on the mainsail.

The headsail’s leech is trimmed by adjusting sheet tension and angle according to the wind speed and direction. A traveler is a track with a movable car or pulley system for adjusting the position and angle of a sheet, and most sailboats have one main traveler for the mainsail and car tracks along the side decks for the headsail. 

The luff of a sail is the front part of the sail between the tack and head. On a mainsail, the luff runs vertically along the mast and along or close to the forestay on a headsail. Headsails are often equipped with luff foam to help maintain their shape when partially reefed on a furler.

Battens are slats or tubes inserted into pockets on the mainsail to help the sail maintain its shape and increase its lifespan . A traditional sail hoisted and lowered on the boom typically has horizontal battens. Vessels with in-mast furling can use vertical battens instead of horizontal ones. 

• A fully battened Mainsail has the battens run through the entire sail length from the luff to the leech.
• A standard battened main sail has the battens along the sail’s leech.

Telltales are small ropes, bands, or flags attached to a sail to give an indication of the airflow around the sail. They help us understand how the wind affects the sail and allow us to fine-tune the trim for optimal performance. Telltales are usually found on the mainsail’s leech and in the front of the headsail’s leech.

The clew of a sail is the lower aft corner and where the outhaul is connected on a mainsail. Headsails have sheets attached to their clew for controlling and trimming the shape and tension.

The tack is the lower, forward corner of a sail.  On a traditional Mainsail, the tack is attached to the Gooseneck, a hinge in front of the boom attached to the mast.

With in-mast furling, the tack is connected to the furling mechanism. This mechanism is used to roll the sail into the mast.

The headsails tack is connected to a furler drum on the forestay on most sailboats. Vessels using traditional hank-on headsails connect the tack to a fixed point on the bow.

The foot of the mainsail is the bottom portion of the sail between the clew and the tack. It is trimmed using the outhaul, a line attached to the clew, and used to adjust the tension on the foot of the sail. Some mainsail are configured loose-footed, and others are attach-footed.

The foot of the headsail is trimmed by adjusting the tension and angle of the sheets, which are the lines used to control the headsail’s clew. We use cars, or pulleys, to adjust the angle of the sheets and thus the trim of the headsail.

Traditional and less commonly seen sails

We’ve now looked at the most commonly used sails and walked through the different parts of them. But what about the less common ones? The art of sailing has a rich history, with some unique sail designs that we rarely see today.

Read on if you want to peek into some traditional sails, or skip straight to popular sail and mast configurations here.

Square sails

Square sails are rectangular and usually set across a ship’s mast, mostly seen on traditional square-rigged sailing ships and Viking ships. These sails are efficient for downwind sailing and are hung from horizontal spars called yards. Though not as agile as modern fore-and-aft sails when sailing upwind, they were central to naval exploration for centuries. Today, they’re mainly seen on traditional vessels and tall ships, symbolizing maritime heritage.

If you’ve been to Martinique in the summer, you may also have noticed the round skiff sailboats the local fishermen traditionally used for fishing in the Atlantic Ocean with their distinctive big squared sails. Tour de Martinique des Yoles Rondes is a popular yearly event where the locals race and show off these beautiful old boats with colorful sails!

A gaff sail is a traditional four-sided sail held up by a horizontal spar called the “gaff.” They are used on classic gaff-rigged sailboats and allow for a larger sail area with a shorter mast. Gaff-rigged boats were traditionally popular and usually carried 25% more sail area than the equivalent Bermudan rig, making them fast on a downwind run. The Gaff rig could also carry a topsail between the gaff and the mast.

However, they don’t sail well to windward, and modern designs have shifted towards triangular sails for better upwind performance.

Jib-headed topsail

The Jib-headed topsail is a small triangular sail used on gaff rigs and is set between the gaff and the top of the mast.

A lug sail is an angled, four-sided sail that attaches at a point on its top side, making it hang tilted. The sail is simple to use and often found on smaller or older boats. There are different types, like standing, dipping, and balance lugs, each hanging differently around the mast.

The lug sail evolved from the square sail to improve how close the vessels could sail into the wind. Because of their upwind performance, fishermen used them widely in Europe from the seventeenth through the nineteenth centuries.

Sprit sails

The spritsail, with its unique four-sided design, stands out thanks to a diagonal support called the “sprit.” It was traditionally popular in Thames sailing barges due to its ability to accommodate high-deck cargo. These days, it’s primarily found in smaller boats like the Optimist dinghy in a variant called “leg of mutton spritsail.”

The spritsail was also used in traditional wooden boats like the fearing version of the Oselvar wooden boat traditionally used in western Norway.

It is also commonly used by the indigenous Guna Yala tribes in Panama in their dugout Ulu’s up to this day. We saw plenty of them when we cruised along the coast, and some of them approached us to sell us their delicious catch of the day!

Lateen sails

A lateen sail is a triangular sail set on a long spar angled on the mast. It was originally popular in the Mediterranean and on Arab shows, and its design enhanced maneuverability and played a crucial role in historic sea exploration.

The lateen sail was used on lateen rigs, the predecessor to the Bermuda rig – one of today’s most commonly used rigs!

Which brings us to the following topic:

Popular sail and mast configurations 

There are many different rigs and sail configurations between sailing vessels. From the old-school square rigs to schooners, gaff rigs, and more. However, this article will focus on the three most popular rigs seen on modern sailboats:

• The Bermuda Sloop Rig
• The Cutter Rig
• The Ketch Rig

The three rigs have similarities and differences between their sail and mast configurations. We’ll walk through each of them to understand how they utilize their different types of sail.

If you want to learn more about other rigs, take a look here .

Bermuda Sloop Rig

The Bermuda sloop rig is the most common rig on modern vessels. It is characterized by a single mast, a triangular mainsail, and a headsail. This rig is named after the Bermuda Islands, where it was developed in the 17th century. 

Some of the key features of the Bermuda sloop rig:

• The mast is typically tall and raked, which allows for a large sail area and excellent stabilit y.
• The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom. It is usually combined with a single headsail at the front of the boat, making it powerful and easy to sail.
• The Sloop is usually equipped with a masthead or fractional rig and flies a Jib or Genoa as its primary headsail.

The Bermuda Sloop rig is known for its simplicity, is often used for racing and cruising, and is popular among sailors worldwide.

The cutter rig is very similar to the sloop rig. The significant difference is that it has a single mast and two headsails – a Staysail and a Yankee. The cutter rig is known for its versatility due to the multiple options in sail plans and the double headsail setup.

Some key aspects that separate the Cutter from the Sloop:

• The rig is often more robust than its Sloop sister because of the additional cutter stay and running backstays.
• The mast is located closer to the center of the boat.
• The Cutter has a staysail on the inner forestay and a Yankee sail on the outer. The sails can be used in combination with each other or independently.
• Tacking the headsail between the forestay and cutter stay is more involved than on a sloop.
• The Cutter rig has two similar variations: the Slutter rig and the Solent rig.

Like the Sloop, the Cutter rig is relatively easy to operate. Still, the additional headsail and rigging make it costlier to maintain. It is also less suitable for racing than the Sloop, but the added versatility helps in different weather conditions and makes it an excellent choice for cruisers.

The ketch rig is also similar to the Sloop but has an additional mizzen mast placed further aft of the main mast. Another mast gives it the advantage of even higher versatility in sail plans. The ketch typically uses three sails. The mizzen sail, a mainsail, and a headsail. The mizzen mast also allows it to fly a second light-wind sail. 

Here are a few more distinctions of the ketch rig:

• The ketch typically carries a smaller mainsail than a similarly sized sloop and a smaller mizzen sail.
• A small mizzen and a medium mainsail are easier to handle than one large mainsail.
• The additional mizzen sail makes the vessel easy to balance and gives extra stability downwind.
• The ketch usually doesn’t point as close to the wind as the Sloop and Cutter.

The headsail setup on a ketch is generally the same as for the Sloop. But the ketch can also be rigged as a cutter ketch, which gives it the benefits of the cutter rig! The tradeoff with a cutter-rigged ketch is the higher complexity and additional rigging, hardware, and sails required.

Final words

Well done, you now have a good grasp of the most common sails and their strengths. We have discussed a few rigs and how they utilize different kinds of sails in various sail plans. Remember that more sail types, other rigs, and even more variations are available. It is a complex topic, but this guide covers the basics and gives you a great starting point.

If you still have questions, look below at the FAQ, or leave me a comment. I’m more than happy to help you out!

A sailboat is only as good as its sails, and sails need wind to work. The next logical step is learning how the wind works when we sail and practicing some wind awareness! Head to the following guide to continue your research: Learn The Difference Between True And Apparent Wind Speed.

FAQ: The Different Types of Sails On A Sailboat

What is the foretriangle on a sailboat.

The foretriangle on a sailboat refers to the triangular area formed between the mast, forestay, and deck. If you want to order a new headsail, for example, you’ll have to measure and supply the sailmaker with these details.

What is the difference between a loose-footed and attached-footed mainsail?

A loose-footed mainsail is attached to the boom only at its corners, leaving the rest of the sail’s bottom edge free. An attached-footed mainsail, on the other hand, is secured to the boom along its entire length. The main difference lies in how the bottom of the sail connects to the boom, with the loose-footed design offering more adjustability in the sail shape.

What is a high-cut clew on a sail?

A high-cut clew refers to the design of a foresail, such as a jib or genoa, where the back lower corner (the clew) is raised or “cut” higher above the deck compared to standard designs. This design allows for better visibility beneath the sail and makes it easier to sail over waves without the sail touching the water, which is especially beneficial for offshore or blue-water cruising. Very high-cut clews are commonly seen on yankee sails on cutter-rigged sailboats.

What is luff foam on a sail?

Luff foam is a padded strip sewn into the forward edge of roller furling sails. It ensures the sail is appropriately shaped when partially rolled up, especially in strong winds. This foam not only helps with sail performance but also protects the sail when it’s furled.

What are the most common sails?

The sloop rig sailboat is the most common and usually features a mainsail, a headsail, and an additional light-wind sail, such as a spinnaker or Gennaker.

What are the different types of sails?

There are several different types of sails, and we can divide the most common into three categories:

The standard sails:

• Mizzen sail

The light-wind sails

The storm sails:

• Storm mainsail
• Storm jib 

What is a spinnaker sail?

A Spinnaker sail is a large, lightweight downwind sail used at deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees.

What is a Jib sail?

A Jib sail is a headsail that does not overlap the mainsail and is set on the forestay. The Jib can also be set up with a self-tacking system, making it very effective when sailing into the wind.

Is Genoa sail the same as a jib?

People often mix the terms Genoa and Jib. The Genoa is different from a Jib sail as it is larger and overlaps the mainsail, whereas the Jib is smaller and does not overlap the mainsail.

What is a Genoa sail?

A Genoa is a headsail larger than the Jib extending past the mast and overlapping the mainsail. The advantage over the Jib is the larger sail area, making it more effective when sailing off the wind.

How many types of sail plans are there?

Sail plans refer to the configuration and arrangement of sails on a boat or ship. While there are countless customizations and variations, the three most common sail plans are:

Sloop: Characterized by a single mast, a triangular mainsail, and a headsail.

Cutter:  Similar to a sloop but has a single mast and carries two or more headsails.

Ketch: Features two masts, with the aft mast (called the mizzen) shorter than the main mast.

What is a Mainsail?

The mainsail is a triangular sail that flies behind the mast on top of the boom.

What is a Gennaker?

A gennaker is basically an asymmetrical spinnaker. A hybrid sail that combines the characteristics of a Genoa and a Spinnaker, designed for sailing off the wind and often used in light to moderate wind conditions.

What is a Storm Jib?

A storm jib is a small, heavy-duty sail used in strong winds or stormy conditions. It is commonly used when the headsail has been furled to the point where it is no longer effective.

What factors determine the type of sail to be used?

The type of sail to be used depends on various factors such as wind conditions, points of sail, sailboat size , and sailing experience. It’s smart to choose the appropriate sail for optimal performance. A Jib, for example, will be more effective than a Genoa while sailing to windward, and vice versa.

How do sails affect the performance of a sailboat?

Sails are the engine of a sailboat. Their design, size, and trim influence the boat’s speed, direction, and stability. Properly adjusted sails capture wind efficiently, allowing the boat to move faster and in the desired direction.

The balance and condition of the sails also impact comfort and safety, with well-maintained sails ensuring optimal performance. The sails are essential in determining how a sailboat performs in various wind conditions.

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Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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The 6 Points of Sail: Diagram of Wind Direction and Sail Trim

Points of sail are the different angles at which a sailboat can sail in relation to the wind. Understanding these points is crucial for anyone who wants to learn how to sail, and it’s usually taught in sailing schools. Each point has its own characteristics that determine the boat’s speed and direction.

The main points of sail are:

• Into the wind: The no-sail zone
• Close-hauled: Sailing as close to the wind direction as possible.
• Close reach: Sailing between a beam reach and close-hauled, at an angle to the wind.
• Beam reach: Sailing perpendicular to the wind, with the wind hitting the side of the sail.
• Broad reach: Sailing with the wind coming from behind at an angle.
• Running: Sailing directly downwind, with the wind coming from behind.

Understanding how to navigate through each point of sail effectively takes practice and patience. It’s important to know your boat’s capabilities and limitations so you can adjust your technique accordingly.

Points of Sail

To comprehend the points of sail, it is essential to grasp the relationship between a sailboat’s trajectory and the direction of the true wind. The points of sail encompass a full 360-degree circle, each segment representing a distinct sailing direction.

1. In Irons (Into the Wind)

Embarking on our journey, we encounter the point of sail known as “into the wind” or “in irons.” This position aligns your sailboat directly into the wind, within a range of plus or minus 45 degrees from 0 degrees. While this point of sail hinders forward progress, it serves as a pivotal moment for executing various sailing maneuvers, such as tacking and mast adjustments.

Tacking involves transitioning from one side of the wind to the other, crossing the into the wind point of sail. It is crucial to navigate this maneuver swiftly, as prolonged exposure in this “no-go zone” can impede momentum. Should you fail to traverse this point expediently and become stuck, it is referred to as being “taken aback.”

2. Close Hauled

Advancing beyond the into the wind point of sail, we arrive at the close hauled position. Sailing close hauled refers to navigating upwind, moving toward the wind’s direction. This point of sail, often referred to as “beating” or “working windward,” offers an intimate connection with the wind, enriching your experience as both captain and crew member.

During close hauled sailing, your sail assumes the role of an airplane wing, cutting through the wind head-on and generating optimal lift. Precise sail trim is paramount in this configuration, with tighter adjustments maximizing the sailboat’s ability to “point” towards the wind and optimize performance.

3. Close Reach

Continuing our voyage, we transition from close hauled to the close reach point of sail. Positioned between close hauled and beam reach, this segment represents a thrilling and rapid sailing direction. Sailors often revel in the exhilaration offered by the close reach point of sail.

Close reach resides closest to the “no-go zone” compared to other points of sail. It’s important to pay close attention to the wind and how the sails are set when sailing close reach. The sail needs to be tight, like when sailing close hauled, but loose enough so it’s just not luffing . This will help the boat sail efficiently when sailing upwind.

4. Beam Reach

As our sailboat maneuvers further away from the wind’s direction, we arrive at the beam reach point of sail. In this configuration, the sailboat is perpendicular to the wind, either on the starboard or port side. Notably, the beam reach point of sail boasts both speed and comfort, making it a preferred choice among sailors.

At beam reach, your sails are partially let out, the wind’s interaction with the sails in this position optimizes energy transfer from the lateral force to forward propulsion. The result is a harmonious conversion of wind power into the sailboat’s forward motion, ensuring an exhilarating and controlled sailing experience.

5. Broad Reach

Progressing from the beam reach, we venture into the realm of the broad reach point of sail. As we veer further downwind, the sails are let out approximately two-thirds of their capacity. At this stage, the wind doesn’t approache directly from astern but at an angle. As a consequence, the sail begins to function more like a parachute, relying on air resistance to maintain momentum.

While sailing on a broad reach, you will experience a less intense sensation of wind, yet your sailboat will continue to make steady progress. The sailboat’s orientation during this point of sail evokes a sense of descending down a slope. The serenity of the wind’s speed, coupled with the reliable forward movement, makes the broad reach a personal favorite among many sailors.

Our final point of sail brings us to the running point—a sailboat’s true downwind trajectory. In this configuration, the sails are fully let out, allowing the wind to propel the sailboat directly from behind. The experience of sailing on a running point is akin to running downhill, with the force of the wind acting as a powerful propeller.

Also known as a “dead run,” the running point of sail demands minimal attention to sail trim but requires careful attention to prevent an accidental jibe. Depending on wind conditions, this point presents an opportunity to hoist a gennaker or spinnaker sail, optimizing the sailboat’s performance when sailing directly downwind. The consistent wind direction and intensity make it an ideal moment to embrace the vibrant colors and expansive sails.

Conclusion for Points of Sail

In conclusion, understanding the fundamentals of sailing directions is crucial for any sailor. Knowing how to navigate each point of sail can make the difference between a successful voyage and a disastrous one. From sailing into the wind to running downwind with ease, each direction presents its own set of challenges and rewards.

Close hauled and close reach requires precision and skill, while beam reach provides a comfortable ride, and broad reach allows for thrilling surfing. Running downwind requires careful attention to prevent an accidental jibe.

As with any skill, practice makes perfect. Take time to familiarize yourself with each point of sail and experiment with different techniques. With patience and perseverance, you will soon become proficient in navigating all directions.

Remember that safety should always come first when out on the water. Always wear appropriate gear and follow proper procedures to ensure a safe journey.

How do I determine the point of sail I’m on?

To determine your point of sail, observe the angle of the wind relative to your boat. Look at the direction the wind is coming from and compare it to the direction your boat is heading. Adjust your sails accordingly to optimize your performance and balance.

What constitutes the best point of sail?

Determining the best point of sail is subjective and varies based on personal preference. However, the beam reach point of sail stands out as the fastest and most comfortable configuration. The optimal balance between lateral wind force and resisting keel force facilitates unparalleled forward movement on a sailboat.

How does the point of sail affect the boat’s heel?

The point of sail has a significant impact on a boat’s heel or stability. When sailing upwind, the boat tends to heel more due to the higher force generated by the sails. As you bear away and sail downwind, the boat’s heel decreases, and it becomes more stable. Proper sail trim can help maintain a balanced heel and overall stability throughout different points of sail.

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How Do Sailboats Work? (The Complete Guide)

Ever wondered how a sailboat moves through the water? If so, you’re in the right place! In this article, we’ll explore the science behind sailboats, from what they are to the parts they use to move.

We’ll uncover the basics of how to angle the sails, the role of the rudder, and safety tips that every sailor should know.

Finally, we’ll dive into the many benefits of sailing, from the joy of exploring the open waters to the feeling of accomplishment when you reach your destination.

So, if you’re ready to discover the wonders of sailboats, let’s get started!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Sailboats use the power of the wind to propel them forward.

The sails are designed to catch the wind, and as the wind passes through the sails, it creates lift which moves the boat forward.

The sails can be adjusted to different angles to maximize the lift and the direction of the boat.

The rudder is used to steer the boat and the keel helps to keep the boat stable in the water.

What is a Sailboat?

A sailboat is a type of boat that uses sails to propel itself through the water.

The sails are usually made of lightweight, durable fabric, such as nylon or polyester, and are attached to a mast which is mounted on the boat.

The sails are designed to catch the wind, which pushes the boat forward.

The sails can be adjusted and angled in order to capture more or less of the wind, allowing for more efficient movement.

The rudder of the boat is a large fin-like structure located at the back of the boat which is used to steer the boat in the desired direction.

With the right skills and understanding of how sailboats work , anyone can enjoy the thrill of sailing.

How Does a Sailboat Work?

Sailboats use the power of the wind to move through the water, allowing them to be an efficient and eco-friendly way to explore the open seas.

In order to understand how sailboats work, its important to understand the parts that make up a sailboat and how they interact with the wind.

The most important part of a sailboat is the sail, which is typically made of lightweight and durable fabric.

The sail is held up by a mast attached to the boat, and it is designed to capture the wind and use it to push the boat forward.

The sail is able to capture more wind when it is angled in a certain direction, allowing it to move faster and more efficiently.

In addition to the sail, sailboats also have a rudder that helps steer the boat in a desired direction.

The rudder works in conjunction with the sail to allow for precise maneuvering of the boat in any direction.

The rudder is typically located behind the boat and is made of a solid material like wood or metal.

Another important part of a sailboat is the keel, which is a fin-like structure that is attached to the bottom of the boat.

The keel helps stabilize the boat and keep it upright in the water.

It also helps the boat stay in a straight line when sailing in a straight direction.

Finally, the sailboat must have a rigging system, which is made up of ropes and lines that are used to control the sails.

The rigging system is used to adjust the angle of the sail to capture the most amount of wind and move the boat forward.

With the right knowledge and understanding of how sailboats work, anyone can enjoy the thrill of sailing.

Understanding how to use the sails, the keel, the rudder, and the rigging system together will help you become an expert sailboat captain in no time.

The Parts of the Sailboat

Sailboats are propelled by the force of wind on their sails, and the most important part of the sailboat is the sail itself.

The sails are typically made of lightweight, durable fabric and are held up by a mast attached to the boat.

The angle of the sail is what captures the wind, allowing for more efficient movement.

The rudder of the boat helps steer it in the desired direction, working in conjunction with the sails to allow for precise maneuvering.

In addition to the sail and mast, the sailboat also contains a boom, which helps hold the sail out when the wind is blowing.

The boom is connected to the mast and can be adjusted to control the angle of the sail.

Additionally, the sailboat features a keel, which is a fin-like structure that helps keep the boat stable and upright in the water.

The keel also helps the boat move in a straight line when the wind is blowing.

Lastly, the sailboat features a tiller, which is the handle used to steer the rudder.

These are the key parts of a sailboat that allow it to move through the water.

How to Angle the Sails

Angling the sails is an essential part of sailing a boat effectively.

By adjusting the angle of the sails in relation to the wind, you can capture more of the winds power to propel the boat forward.

To angle the sails correctly, the sailor must first identify the direction of the wind.

This can be done by feeling the air on their face, or by looking for telltale signs like rippling water or flags flapping in the wind.

Once the wind direction is known, the sailor must adjust the angle of the sails so that they will catch more of the winds power and propel the boat forward.

The most efficient angle for the sails depends on the type of boat and the strength of the wind, but in general, the sails should be angled so they are at a 45-degree angle to the wind.

This allows the sails to catch the most wind and propel the boat forward with the most efficiency.

It is also important to make sure that the sails are not too close to the boat, as this can cause them to lose their shape and be less effective.

In addition to angling the sails correctly, the sailor must also be aware of the wind speed and direction.

As the wind speed and direction change, the sailor must adjust the angle of the sails in order to stay on course and maintain the most efficient angle for catching the wind.

By making small adjustments to the sails angle, the sailor can keep the boat moving in the desired direction and maintain the most efficient speed.

Sailors must also be aware of how their body weight can affect the angle of the sails.

If the sailor leans too far to one side of the boat, the angle of the sails will be affected.

This can result in the boat veering off course or the sails not catching the wind efficiently.

To prevent this, the sailor must be aware of their body weight and be mindful of how it affects the sails.

By understanding and being aware of how to angle the sails correctly, sailors can ensure that they are using the power of the wind to propel their boat forward efficiently.

With practice and experience, anyone can become a skilled sailor and enjoy the thrill of sailing.

The Role of the Rudder

The role of the rudder on a sailboat is essential for steering and maneuvering the boat in the desired direction.

The rudder is typically located at the stern of the boat and is a flat piece of metal or wood that is connected to the hull and runs along the bottom of the boat.

By changing the angle of the rudder relative to the hull, the boat can be steered in the desired direction.

When the rudder is angled to the left, the boat will turn to the left and when the rudder is angled to the right, the boat will turn to the right.

The rudder is also used to keep the boat on a straight course when sailing in strong winds.

By angling the rudder slightly, it helps to create a drag on one side of the boat and a lift on the other side, allowing for greater control and stability in high winds.

In addition to the rudder, sails can also be angled to help turn the boat in the desired direction.

Together, the sails and the rudder work together to help the sailor steer and maneuver the boat in the desired direction.

Safety Tips for Sailing

Sailing is a popular recreational activity, but it can also be dangerous if not practiced safely.

Before setting sail, it is important to be aware of some key safety tips that will help you enjoy your sailing experience without any hiccups.

First, make sure you have the proper safety equipment onboard.

This includes life jackets, flares, a first-aid kit, and a fire extinguisher.

It is also a good idea to carry a radio or GPS device onboard in case of emergency.

Additionally, make sure that the boat has been inspected and is in good working condition before leaving the dock.

It is also important to check the weather before setting sail.

Make sure you are aware of any storms or other hazardous conditions that may be in the forecast.

Make sure to also check the tide and wind conditions before leaving, as these can greatly affect your course and speed.

It is important to wear the proper clothing when sailing.

Choose clothing that is lightweight, breathable, and waterproof.

Make sure to also bring a hat or visor and sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun’s rays.

Additionally, make sure you have plenty of food and water onboard in case of emergency.

Finally, make sure you have a good understanding of the sailing basics, such as sailing terms, the parts of the boat, and how to properly sail.

Knowing these basics, as well as the local rules and regulations, will help ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

By following these safety tips, you can ensure that your sailing experience is a safe and enjoyable one.

Be sure to always practice good safety habits and use common sense when out on the water.

With the proper preparation and knowledge, sailing can be a fun and enjoyable experience.

The Benefits of Sailing

Sailing is an activity that can provide countless benefits to those who take part in it.

Not only can it be great fun, but it can also be a great way to relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Sailing can also increase physical and mental wellbeing, as it provides an opportunity to be out in nature and enjoy the fresh air.

Additionally, sailing can help improve coordination, balance, and focus, as well as provide a unique way to explore the world.

It can also be a great way to build self-confidence, as mastering the art of sailing requires skill and determination.

Finally, sailing can be a great form of exercise, as it can help improve endurance, strength, and flexibility.

All these benefits make sailing a great activity for anyone looking to enjoy the outdoors and have a memorable experience.

Final Thoughts

Sailboats are a fantastic way to enjoy the outdoors and even take part in competitive sailing events.

With the right knowledge of how sailboats work, anyone can get out on the water and enjoy the thrill of sailing.

From understanding the parts of a sailboat to how the sails and rudder work together, sailing is a skill that can be easily learned.

With all the benefits of sailing, it’s an activity that’s sure to bring plenty of fun and memories.

So, what are you waiting for? Get out on the water and experience the magic of sailing!

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Know Your Boat: Terms for Location, Position, and Direction

5 Common Terms All Mariners Should Know

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Some of the most common terms in sailing refer to the basic directions you'll need to know while on the boat itself, as well as some terms referring to the boat's position (or location) while in the water. If you aren't a sailor but rather a passenger, mariners can seem to speak a foreign language at times. Still, knowing some common nautical terms will help make your experience more enjoyable. And if you're a beginning sailor , using these terms accurately is imperative for operating your boat as well as for communicating with your passengers and fellow sailors.

Bow and Stern

The front end of a boat is called the bow . When you move toward the bow on the boat, you are going  forward . The rear of a boat is called the stern . When you move toward the stern on the boat, you are going aft .

When a boat is moving in the water, either by motor power or by sail , it is called being ​ underway . A boat moving forward is moving ahead . When the boat moves backward, it is going astern .

Port and Starboard

Port and starboard are nautical terms for left and right. If you are standing at the rear of the boat looking forward, or to the bow, the entire right side of the boat is the starboard side and the entire left side is the port side. Because port and starboard are not relative to the observer (like "left" and "right" would be), there is never any confusion while on board about which direction you are facing or headed. 

The term starboard derives from the Old English steorbord , which refers to the side on which the ship was steered using an oar—the right side because most people are right-handed.

Other terms to know are starboard bow , which refers to the front right side of the boat, and port bow , which refers to the front left side of the boat. The right rear of the boat is the starboard quarter ; the left rear is the port quarter .

Divisions Within the Boat

Boats are divided into eight basic sections. Amidships is the central part of the boat, running from bow to stern. Think of it as dividing the boat in half, long ways. Athwartships is the central part of the boat, running from the port to starboard side. Think of it as now dividing the boat into quarters.

The right center side of the boat is the starboard beam ; the left center side is the port beam . Together with port and starboard bow and port and starboard quarter, they finish dividing the boat.

Up and Down on a Boat

Going topside is moving from a lower deck to an upper deck of the boat while going below is moving from an upper deck to a lower deck.

Windward and Leeward

Windward is the direction from which the wind is blowing; leeward is the opposite direction from which the wind is blowing. Knowing the windward side (moving toward the wind) and leeward side (moving away from the wind) of a boat is critical when mooring, unmooring, and operating in heavy weather.

A windward vessel is normally the more maneuverable vessel, which is why rule 12 of the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea  stipulates that windward vessels always give way to leeward vessels.

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Understanding the Different Parts of a Sailboat

by boatshowhou | May 22, 2014 | Blog | 3 comments

Have you ever thought about learning how to sail? If so, then you should start by understanding the different parts of a sailboat if you want to sail your boat as efficiently as possible. Here they are in alphabetical order:

• Block: This is the nautical term for a pulley.
• Boom: The horizontal support for the foot of the mainsail which extends aft of the mast. This is what you want to watch out for when changing directions in a sailboat. It can give you quite a wallop on the head if it hits you.
• Bow: This is what the front of the boat is called.
• Centerboard: This is a (usually fibreglass) plate that pivots from the bottom of the keel in some boats and is used to balance the boat when under sail.
• Cleat: Cleats are what lines (or ropes) get fastened to when they need to be kept tight.
• Halyard: Lines that raise or lower the sails. (Along with the sheets, aka running rigging.)
• Hull: The hull is the body of the boat and consists of everything below the deck.
• Jib: This is the sail at the bow of the boat. The jib helps propel the boat forward.
• Genoa: A foresail which is larger in size than a jib.
• Keel: The keel is what prevents a boat from sliding sideways (“making leeway”) in whatever way the wind is blowing and stabilizes the boat.
• Line: Lines are ropes. They are everywhere on boats. There is only one “rope” on a sailboat, the bolt rope which runs along the foot of the mainsail.
• Mainsail: As the name implies, this is the main sail of the boat. It is the sail attached to the back of the mast.
• Mast: The mast is a large, vertical pole that holds the sails up. Some boats have more than one mast.
• Painter: This is a line positioned at the front of small boats. It is used to tie the boat to a dock or another boat.
• Rudder: The rudder is how the boat is steered. It is moveable so that when you turn the wheel or tiller, the rudder directs the boat in the direction you would like the boat to go.
• Sheets: The lines that control the sails. (aka running rigging.)
• Spinnaker: The usually brightly colored sail used when sailing downwind or across the wind.
• Stays and Shrouds: There are wires that make sure the mast stays upright, even in very heavy winds. (aka standing rigging.)
• Stern: This is the term for the back of the boat.
• Tiller: The tiller is a stick attached to the rudder and is used to control the rudder.
• Transom: This is what we would call the butt of the boat. It is the back part of the boat that is perpendicular to its centerline.
• Wheel: The wheel works the rudder, steering the boat.
• Winch: Winches help bring in the lines. When lines are wrapped around a winch, a sailor can turn the winch with a handle, which will make it easier to bring in the lines.

Ready to learn how to sail? There are great sailing classes that you can take right here close to home! One of them is in Seabrook called 3D Coast Captains – check them out – they’ll be at the June Boat Show along with other exhibitors !

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What does the sails actually do on a sailboat

Sails are an air foil like an airplane wing in that the wind flowing over the front and under the back of the sail forms a low air pressure in front of the sail and a higher pressure area behind the sail. This pulls the sail and thus the boat forward through the water. The sails are also used to turn the boat and they can be eased or released to slow or stop the boat.

What does the sails on a sail boat do

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Nautical Terms – Boating Words Every Sailor Should Know

What are nautical terms.

I can still remember going on a boat trip with a friend who was a sailor and a boat expert. He kept mentioning these strange words to his assistant while trying to control the boat. I had almost lost my interest in sailing until my friend walked over and had to put me out of my misery. For the first time, I heard the nautical phrase terms, i.e., a vocabulary for the boat or terms used when sailing.

Better still you might want to ask most simply, what are nautical terms???

Nautical terms are also known as sailing terms. They are listings of various words associated with ships, boats, and sailing. It’s the same way we use catering terms when catering and scientific terms when writing or describing an object in science.

Funny Nautical Terms

In as much as sailing can be educative, it can also be humorous. I thought I had heard it all but telling me the nautical terms were wasn’t enough when my friend began using these hilarious terms over and over. I could remember myself bursting into a long-term of laughter whenever he mentioned the word “poop deck” or when he described the toilet of the boat as the head.

I took the time to note down the following funny nautical terms; I am sure they will get you giggling soon:

• Abreast : Used when two boats lay together in a way the bible would probably frown at.
• Poop deck : You should be thinking of the rest-room, but it’s not, it’s just the part of the boat you get to roam about freely, it’s a standard rude term used in boating.
• Jacob’s ladder : Now this is supposed to be the title of a famous movie I once saw at the cinema, but in this case, it’s just a rope ladder.
• Screw : This is talking about the propeller.
• Ground tackle : Sounds like a term used in sport, but it’s just another hilarious term for the anchor and associated bits and bobs.
• Porthole : It merely means “I’m having a panic attack.”
• Flange : I am scared.

Common Nautical Terms

Away from the humor, if you are looking to become an expert in boating or sailing, or you want the sailing education, then you must try to get familiar with some common nautical terms. Knowing these terms will make it easier to communicate with people aboard the ship. The essence is neither to boast nor impress your friends but helps to stay safe on water especially during an emergency when you might have to take sets of instructions using these terminologies.

Here are some common nautical terms:

• Bow : This refers to the front end of the boat.
• Forward : This is used when you are moving toward the front end of the boat [bow].
• Aft : Used to describe your movement towards the rear end of the boat, more like saying someone is going “aft.”
• Ahead : Refers to the movement of a boat in a forward direction.
• Astern : Refers to the backward movement of a boat.
• Topside : Moving from the lower deck of the boat to the upper deck of the ship.
• Amidships : Refers to the central part of a boating vessel.
• Port Quarter : This is the rear left side of the boat.
• Starboard Quarter : Refers to the rear right of the boat.
• Port Bow : This is the front left side of the boat.
• Starboard Bow : This is the front right of a boat.
• Starboard : When standing at the rear of the boat and looking forward, starboard is the entire right side of the ship.
• Port : When standing at the rear of the boat and looking forward, the port is the entire left side of the ship.
• Leeward : This is also known as “Lee,” it’s the direction opposite to the movement of the wind.
• Windward : This is the direction in which the wind is currently blowing; it is the opposite of “lee.” Sailboats usually move in the direction of the wind, and this makes it an essential term to note.
• Boom : The boom is the horizontal pole which extends from the bottom of the mast, manipulating the boom to the direction of the wind helps the boat to harness the power of the wind for forwarding or backward movement.
• Stern : This is the rear end of the boat.
• Underway : A boat is referred to as being “underway’ when it is moving, either by a motor or by the energy provided by the wind.
• Rudder : This is located beneath the boat; it is a flat piece of wood, fiberglass or metal used to steer the ship. Bigger boats control the rudder with a wheel while the small boats use the steering mechanism.
• Awash: Refers to water level slightly covering the deck.
• Bilge: Means the lowest part of the haul.
• Course: This refers to the direction a ship is sailing.
• Cockpit: A steering compartment.
• Current: This refers to a movement of water.
• Heading: This is the direction a ship is sailing.
• Becalm: To stop because of lack of wind.
• Chart: This refers to a navigational course or to map a route.
• Bearing: Refers to the direction of an object shown on a chart or sometimes as a bearing relating to the heading of the boat.
• Ballast: This refers to stabilizing weights placed in the hull of a ship.
• Anchor: This refers to an object that holds the ship in place.
• Bail: To throw out rainwater or seawater that has been collected in the ship.
• Capsize: To overturn.
• Headway: The rate of progress in sailing.
• Manhole: This refers to an opening in a compartment.
• Overhaul: Prepare a piece of equipment for use.
• Lookout: Refers to a sailor standing watch.
• Helm: A steering apparatus.
• Keel: Central structural basis of the hull.
• Ship: To convey a cargo or passenger by ship.
• Seaworthy: In good condition to be operated.
• Bank: Refers to a large area of elevated sea floor.
• Beam: Refers to the greatest width of the boat.
• Cabin: This is an enclosed room on a deck.
• Chine: This refers to the intersection of the bottom and sides of a v-bottomed boat.
• Cuddy: This is a small sheltered cabin on a boat.
• Deadrise: This is referred to as the design angle that is between the keel and the horizontal.
• Draft or draught: This means the depth of a ship’s keel below the waterline.
• Fast: Held firmly.
• Flank: This is the maximum speed of a ship.
• Flow: An incoming current.
• Galley: Refers to the kitchen of the ship.
• Ground: Refers to the bed of the sea.
• Gunwales: Refers to the upper edge of a boat’s sides.
• Lanyard: This is a roped that is used to tie something off.
• Log: Means a record of operations. It is also a device used to measure speed.
• Marina: This is the fueling point of a boat.
• Marlin Board: This is a small deck on the aft. This is to make accessing water easier.
• Mast: This refers to a vertical pole on a ship which supports sails.
• Obstruction:   Means an object that a boat couldn’t pass without changing course.
• Pilot: A pilot is a navigator.
• Pier: This is a loading platform which extends to the angle from the shore.
• Run: To allow a line to move freely.
• Rudder: Refers to an underwater vertical plate for steering a boat.
• Sail trim: This refers to the position of the sail relative to the desired point and wind.
• Following sea: Refers to the waves coming from behind.
• Bring to: To cause the ship to stop by arranging sails.
• Bowse: To hoist.
• Beacon: A fixed aid to navigation attached directly to the earth’s surface.
• Holiday: This refers to the gap that is in between the coverage of newly applied paint.
• Horse: Refers to the attachment of sheets to deck of a vessel.
• Lay: Commonly used to give orders to the crew. It means to come and go.
• Luff: Refers to the forward edge of sails.
• Mast: Refers to a vertical pole that supports sails or rigging on a ship.
• Moor: To dock a ship.
• Pitchpole: To capsize a boat end over end instead of rolling over.

Nautical Slang

Slang is everywhere, especially in most occupations. Nautically, slangs are not left out. Sailors and the crew sometimes communicate using slang words. Some of them might be funny, weird or even in the form of a phrase.

Below are some nautical slangs:

• Bite the bullet: This means to dace up to something unpleasant.
• Ant’s bollock on a beach: Slang used for something hard to locate.
• Bottle fishing: A slang term used for transporting liquor.
• Brace of shakes: To be with someone in a brace of shakes means to be with the person before sail has time to shake twice.
• Chock-a-block: Means to secure goods tightly on the deck in high seas.
• Cuts no ice: This is used in a ship struggling to make progress in ice.
• I’m going to deck you: This is a threat that you will knock your opponent to the deck.
• Deep six: This is used when there is plenty of water under the keel.
• Fag end: To Fag means to pull apart a strand of rope. The point where the strands were referred to as fag ends.
• Going like the clappers: Slang used when the ship sailed faster.
• Granny’s knot: Means knot tied wrong which cannot be easily undone when jammed.
• Honesty among thieves: Refers to severe punishment given for stealing each other’s properties.
• Lap-clap: To become pregnant.
• Look around for loose ends: This is an instruction given to sort out all pieces of rope and tie up things securely. This usually happens when a ship had escaped from something.
• Castaway: This is an action to commit a deliberate act to sink a ship.
• Come hell: This means to do whatever it takes to reach the destination.
• Crewcut: This refers to short hair that is given to the whole crew.
• Dead in the water: This is used when the ship is stationary, i.e., no wind in its sails to make it come to life.
• Don’t rock the boat: To keep things the way they are.
• Flannel: This is slang for insincerity or hot air.
• Pickled:  Used to refer to somebody who is drunk.
• Son of a gun: Wives and mistress sometimes give birth at sea. There was little or no room for delivery except for firearms on the guns deck. Most times, no one knew its father.
• Wind eye: Refers to the point from which wind blows.
• Rock the boat: Said when someone has disturbed or aggravated the balance in a situation.
• Makeup leeway: This refers to a vessel’s drift to the lee (lee meaning downwind).
• Floozies: This is used for women who were let aboard during the time the ship was in port.
• Fluky: A wind that is light and variable.
• A warning shot across the bow: A slang used for the captain telling him to strike without engaging.
• Seaman: Slang used for someone who drives a ship instead of a sailor.
• Skipper: Used to address a captain of a ship.
• Trim your sails: Referring to the condition of a vessel that is loaded and balanced correctly so that the ship floats successfully on the waterline.
• Pipe down: A way of saying someone should stop making noise.
• To be sent up the pole: Usually used when something is driving one mad.
• Speak: Used when you want to maneuver near enough to exchange greetings with another ship.

Nautical Terms For Departure

You will probably wonder why you often find it hard to comprehend the captain’s words whenever he’s set for departure. If you are not nautically oriented, you cannot. I was once in your shoes. You can put your mind at rest now because here are some nautical departure terms for your aquatic adventures.

• Launch: Moving a boat from land to water.
• Sail: To propel a boat over the water.
• Make Sail: To rise sails while getting underway.
• Shove off: To push the boat away from the dock.
• Set sail: To raise sails in preparation for getting underway.
• Set: Refers to the direction of current flow. Usually employed to calculate a reliable course over the bottom.
• Sailing: A navigation method used to determine the course of a boat.
• Board: Usually used when you want to go onto a board.
• Cast off: Refers to letting go of the docking lines to proceed with the sail.
• Plain sails: The primary working sail on a boat.

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How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use

Published on April 22, 2016 ; last updated on March 20, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock

Lazy jacks are a great way to control your mainsail as it comes down, but they can also be a real frustration when raising it. The sail battens catch on the lazy jacks and you have to raise the sail a few inches at a time and time the ups perfectly as the lazy jack flips out of the way so the batten doesn’t catch.

There’s usually a bit of “discussion” between the person raising the sail and the one at the helm along the lines of “would you PLEASE hold the boat directly into the wind so I can get this sail up?” We won’t repeat what the person at the helm may be saying. For that reason, lots of people hate lazy jacks.

And I know a number of people who don’t want a stack pack system because it combines a sail cover and lazy jacks into one package.

A quick bit of rigging, however, will make lazy jacks simple to use when raising the main. The secret is being able to move the lazy jacks out of the way when raising the sail (and eliminate the chafe on the sail when sailing) but still have them easily available when you drop the main.

It’s easier to show in pictures, so here goes.

Using Improved Lazy Jacks

Our system – I’ve drawn the lines and blocks in as they didn’t show up well.

To raise the main, you release each lazy jack where it’s cleated on the mast, pull the two lines that are attached to the boom forward, and hook them on the reef hooks or the cleats that the lazy jacks are on. Then tighten up the lazy jack lines. The lazy jacks now form a reverse “L” going along the boom and up the mast.

Now, with the lazy jacks out of the way, you can easily raise the main.

While sailing, we leave the lazy jacks hooked on the mast cleats so they don’t chafe on the main.

Then, when it’s time to take the main down, we unhook the lazy jacks and tighten them up to catch the main.

In light air, we can even take the main down without turning into the wind as the lazy jacks nicely corral the sail as it comes down.

It almost flakes itself – a little bit of adjustment and it’s ready for the sail cover.

This system works equally well with a stack pack and/or lazy jacks that have three or four attachment points on the boom. We had a stack pack and lazy jacks with four boom (or stack pack, really) attachments on our previous boat (a Tayana 37 with a much larger main sail) and it worked perfectly.

Barefoot Gal had lazy jacks when we bought her, but they were terminated at the mast above the first spreaders. No line back down to deck level. Yes, it drove us nuts. But thanks to whoever had rigged Que Tal those many years ago, we knew exactly how to fix it.

How to Make Your Lazy Jacks Easy to Use

You’ll add a small block on the mast where the lazy jack control line will turn and come down to deck level. Then add a cleat on the mast where you’ll cleat off the lazy jack control line. Finally, you’ll add a longer control line to the lazy jacks.

There is no change to the part of the lazy jack system that is attached to the boom and which goes up to the block where the single control line attaches. The changes are all above that point.

You will need to go up the mast to the point where the lazy jacks attach with a bosun’s chair or another climbing device.

Total cost is $100 to $150 on most boats; time required is two to three hours once you have all the parts.

Preparation

Whip or melt the ends of the new control lines.

Rig up your bosun’s chair or other mast-climbing apparatus and container for carrying tools and parts up the mast with you. Be sure to take the new control lines up with you!

Step One: Add Cleats on Mast

Install the cleats on the mast at a convenient height. You want them to be out of the way of any winches and easy to access.

When attaching fittings to the mast, always use machine screws (or rivets) and not sheet metal screws. Halyards and wiring run inside the mast and the pointed tips of sheet metal screws can damage either one. Drill a hole in the mast and tap it for machine screws. Dab Tef-Gel on the screw threads before putting the screw in to prevent the dissimilar metals seizing. As a side note, you should also use machine screws or rivets for fittings on the boom, so as not to snag the outhaul or reefing lines running inside.

Step Two: Pad Eyes and Blocks on the Mast

For this step, you’ll have to go up the mast, using a bosun’s chair or whatever mast-climbing device you prefer ( see ours ). Always use a backup, totally independent system to lessen the chances of injury or death. And be sure to read my tips for keeping people on deck safe while someone is working in the air.

There were already pad eyes on the mast where our lazy jacks were terminated, so all we had to do was shackle a small block (sized for the lazy jack line) on the pad eye.

If you don’t have pad eyes, you’ll have to attach them to the mast, either with machine screws or rivets, then shackle the blocks to the pad eyes.

Use seizing wire or a cable tie to secure the shackle pins so that the pins cannot back out with the motion of the boat.

Step Three: New Lazy Jack Control Line

Before coming back to deck level, pass one of the new control lines through each of the blocks you’ve just installed. You may want to tie the ends together on each side so that you don’t have one go up the mast and come out of the block while you’re coming down (ask me how I know about this possibility!). When tying them together, do it fairly near the ends of each line so you can untie them from the deck.

Once you’re back down on deck, tie one end of each line to the block at the top of the catch lines on each side of the boat, at the point labelled “block” in the drawing below. Cleat the other end on the cleat you just installed.

There is very little load on the various parts. We had some items in our spares locker and bought others from Amazon. Due to the relatively light loads, you don’t need heavy-duty or top-of-the-line parts.

• Two small blocks (these are what we used; make sure yours will fit your control line)
• Two shackles to hold the blocks to the pad eyes (size to fit your other hardware)
• Two pad eyes (this 10-pack is a great deal, but don’t use the pointy screws that come with them; buy 4mm stainless machine screws at a hardware or home improvement store)
• Machine screws or rivets for pad eyes
• Seizing wire or cable ties to secure shackle pin
• Two small cleats and machine screws for attaching
• New control line for lazy jacks — the easiest way to measure the length is to go from the aft attachment point of the lazy jacks on the boom to the gooseneck, plus twice the distance from the gooseneck to the pad eye on the mast. This will give you enough line to cleat. You need two pieces this long. Be sure to choose line that is UV-resistant; we like using Sta-Set.
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Reader Interactions

April 22, 2016 at 8:55 am

How do you know exactly what we say to each other when raising the main?! Great tips, we will have to do this!

Patty Thompson says

April 22, 2016 at 2:27 pm

Carolyn I really do love your advice!! Our boat has lazy jacks and we were never quite sure how to take full advantage of it and yes it has been a pain!! Now I can’t wait to do this and try it out! Thank you

Ted Broom says

April 22, 2016 at 10:15 am

We made our own maany years ago and that’s how I made them. Figured Relinda didn’t need the hassle of fighting the sail up. She pulls the legs forward to catch them at the gooseneck and hoists. No problems

BEVERLY VENABLE says

April 23, 2016 at 2:40 pm

We’ve always done this in our home-made set up because I had already made a regular sailcover and didn’t want to put slots in it for the lazy jack, so we pull the lazy jack forward before covering and that way it is out of the way for raising the sail on next trip.

Rodney L Foushee says

April 26, 2016 at 8:41 am

Having difficulty with lazy jacks is not a function of the jacks. It is a self-induced problem caused by raising/lowering sails in the wrong order. First up and last down is the head sail. Last up / first down is the main. After making way with the head sail, release the main sheet which allows the main on the boom to wind vane into the apparent wind. Leave the main sheet released. Helmsman pilots with the head sail; crew raises main with no batten snagging because the main system (boom, sail, jacks) is aligned with the wind. After the main halyard is cleated, helmsman trims the main. Same procedure in reverse order for lowering sails. Works in any breeze. Try it.

Keith & Nicki, s/v Sionna says

December 1, 2017 at 6:33 am

Rodney, this is great theory, but in many boats – ours included – it simply doesn’t work. Largely this is because with any breeze at all the mainsail is a living thing, luffing and moving randomly as soon as you begin to hoist. Carolyn’s advice is Stirling, and exactly what our sail maker recommended, with the added benefit of reducing chafe on our main from having the lazy jacks rub against the sail while under way.

December 1, 2017 at 11:39 am

There is no “theory” with my recommendation – the main sail on your boat, my boat, every boat is subject to the same laws of physics, and, thus, is nothing more than a flag aligned with the wind until the main sheet is tightened. You are correct, the main will move about just like a flag, but what you are missing is that it carries the boom and everything attached to the boom, including the lazy jacks, in alignment along with it.. Head sail first, then the main, it is just too easy.

I’m not questioning the wisdom of the jack system offered here. I’m just offering a practical efficient way of raising and lowering sails without fighting the wind. Simply a tip for the toolbox; don’t like, don’t use it.

Carolyn Shearlock says

December 1, 2017 at 11:44 am

I get what you are saying, but as the sail is raised the battens do not stay in alignment with the boom nor do the lazyjacks. They move independently and the battens WILL snag on the lazyjacks.as the sail is raised.

Michael says

January 1, 2022 at 8:22 pm

Depend on the boat and the sail. The size of the boom and the mast width usually determine the space between the lazy jacks some larger boats have wider boom and mast making the space between the lazy jacks much wider. Some sails are full length battens some have partial Battens. This makes a different in stiffness of the sail and the ends getting hung up or not. Sail shape also makes a difference. I like having the same setup as shown because it allows me to adjust The position of the block that supports the lower lines on the boom. But what works on one boat may or may not be best for all.

Marc Kornutik says

December 1, 2017 at 12:51 pm

Please allow that your system will not work if lazy jacks are in position. But I’m still confused because even if none are used or they are pulled out of the way…, once you are sailing after the headsail is unfurled the main is going to fill and billow out to leeward putting a lot of strain on the boltrope, mast track etc. Would be hard to raise and I think it would look quite the mess on deck. Glad it works for you is all I can say, but would love to see a video of you doing it.

Adam Norman says

April 26, 2016 at 9:26 am

Hi Carolyn Another advantage of your excellent system is that you can move the lazy jacks out of the way to the mast cleats when the boat is moored in the marina, thus cutting out chafe and wear on the sail cover if it gets windy while you are away from the boat. All the best from the UK! Adam

Margaret says

April 26, 2016 at 11:29 am

Going to do this!

April 28, 2016 at 7:43 am

We’ve had a similar system on our boat for 20 years. It’s great. No chafing, no interference with sail shape.

April 28, 2016 at 12:20 pm

A much cheaper and easier way I came up with is to just unfasten the aftmost attachment of the lazy jacks on both sides of the boom and tie shackles on the ends. Then since it is usually the aft lazy jacks that catch the battens, you can just unshackle them and walk them forward (I snap them together around the mast mounted jib halyard winch.) As long as you remember to walk them aft and reattach them before you lower the main (best to do them one at a time on the windward side of the main to avoid the pressure of the wind on the sail, and do the other on the next tack) it works fine. Granted this does not solve the problem of interference with the sail cover.

Patrick says

April 29, 2016 at 2:04 am

I have been doing this for a long time but with a little modification. If you have a long tail on the line that raises your lazy jack you can run it through a small cleat and back up to the first eye on the lazy jack. In this way to lower you just untie the tail and pull down the lazy jack. to raise you do the opposite. You do not end up with a lot of line to deal with as the line that comes down goes up at the same time. I hope this is understandable.

Jason Ellmers says

May 5, 2016 at 7:35 am

another thing that will help with snagging issues is to terminate the top most point in the middle of your spreaders and not on the mast at all.. It holds the top away from the centreline.

I have a stack pack with jacks which works like a dream.. Must admit also I don’t have to worry about the blocks the sail might rub on as I have soft spliced eyes at the ends of the rope for the other lines to pass through… Another tip.

Marc J. Kornutik says

April 13, 2017 at 9:23 am

Carolyn, excellent system for using just a sail cover. Must disagree though when using it with a stackpack. My lazy jacks also control the tension on the stackpack so it would flop to the sides rather than staying in place. Wouldn’t be realistic to sail that way if lazyjacks were brought fwd out of the way. It also allows the sail to drop out of it prior to hoisting (no sail ties) so really defeating it’s purpose. That said mine is rigged exactly as you described from the previous owner but I can’t get around the issue of the pack dropping down when those lines are loosened unfortunately.

April 13, 2017 at 9:32 am

We had a stackpack with lazy jacks on our previous boat. The sail falling out the pack as we raised the sail was far less of a problem than having the battens catch on the lines in our opinion. One trick is to release one side fully and the other only slightly — keep the boat not perfectly head to wind so that the sail all stays in the slightly released side (it will form a big belly as you partially release the lazy jacks) then bring the boat fully into the wind just as the person at the mast starts raising the sail and the sail starts spilling out. Takes a bit of coordination, but isn’t as hard as it sounds and keeps the sail contained pretty well as it’s being hoisted but also prevents the sail from hanging on the lazyjacks.

You may feel the opposite and prefer to keep the lines in their normal position. And yes, with a stackpack, we did re-tighten the lazyjack lines once the sail was up so that the stack pack laid next to the sail.

Jorge Bermudez says

April 25, 2017 at 8:56 pm

I only put up the lazy jacks to drop the main. Otherwise they are stored along the boom and mast

Bill Dixon says

April 26, 2017 at 8:55 am

We run the “downhaul ” leg aft to the sail cover. It becomes a 3rd lazy jack instead of just another line banging on the mast.

April 15, 2024 at 7:25 pm

Im imterested to learn more ; can you please explain how are you lines connected when sail is up, and how they lay once the sail cover on ? Trying to find the best way to run my lazy jacks and having them away from the mast is music to my ears. Thanks in advance!

Andrent says

June 29, 2017 at 6:45 pm

We are new boat owners struggling with the stack pack and lazy jacks! Could not figure out what to do, will definitely try your method. Thanks.

Vangelis Christodoulou says

December 29, 2017 at 6:07 am

When under way don’t you get the lines fixed on the boom pulling ie not letting the boom swing out?

December 29, 2017 at 7:10 am

No, they go to hooks that are quite close to the gooseneck, so there is virtually no difference in length.

Evangelos Christodoulou says

December 30, 2017 at 7:16 pm

Ok makes sense. Thanks

Anonymous says

March 24, 2018 at 7:00 pm

Drives me nuts to lower the main without them!

March 25, 2018 at 3:29 am

Mike Drury read this!

March 25, 2018 at 6:53 am

That’s what I have been saying all along 😎 We need to get this rigged up once the new boom bag is made.

March 25, 2018 at 8:51 am

Mike Drury new boom bag is up already on the old lazy jacks! Just needs some finishing off on Monday x

March 28, 2018 at 12:22 am

Des Bradley

Bill Murdoch says

December 6, 2019 at 9:44 am

There is a 1994 US patent on the idea. The drawings and description would be helpful in setting up the system. https://patents.google.com/patent/US5327842A/en

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How To Sail Against The Wind

Sailing against the wind, also known as "beating" or "tacking," can be challenging but it is an important skill for sailors to master.

Being able to sail against the wind means a sailor can sail their boat in most locations in the world.

To sail a sailboat against the wind:

• Check the wind direction
• Tack the boat
• Use the tiller/steering
• Adjust the sails continuously

Following these steps will allow a sailboat to sail windward.

1. Check The Wind Direction

The first step of sailing against the wind direction is the check the exact direction in which the wind is blowing.

To check the direction of the wind:

• Use a wind indicator : Use a wind indicator like an anemometer to measure the exact wind direction
• Check the onboard flag or sails : Look at the sails or flags onboard to get the exact wind direction
• Check the weather forecast : Sailors can check the local weather forecast to get the exact direction the wind is blowing

Sailing against the wind requires a sailor to sail at an angle to the wind so a sailor will need to know the exact direction the wind is coming from to set this angle.

The benefits of checking the wind direction are it will inform the sailor of the exact wind direction so a tacking angle can be set and it will inform the sailor of the wind speed so they will know the force on the sails and keel.

2. Tack The Sailboat

The second step of sailing into the wind is to tack the sailboat, also known as "tacking".

Tacking is a sailing maneuver used to change the direction of a sailboat by turning the bow of the boat through the wind. This is also known as "coming about" or "beating."

When sailing, tacking is used to sail against the wind or to change the direction of the boat when sailing at an angle to the wind.

The tacking sailing maneuver means a sailboat will sail in a zig-zag direction against the wind rather than sailing at a 90-degree angle windward. The zig-zag direction change means the wind will alternate between blowing on the starboard side and blowing on the port side.

For example, if the wind is blowing from the north, tacking would mean sailing the sailboat in the direction between northeast and northwest rather than directly north.

To tack a sailboat:

• Alert the crew : Alert the crew that you're about to tack the sailboat to prepare them to go to a close haul. Close hauled is a sailing term used to describe the point of sail where the boat is sailing as close to the wind as possible. This means that the boat is heading upwind with the sails trimmed in tight and the wind coming from the side of the boat
• Tighten the mainsheet : Tightening the mainsheet is used to adjust the angle of the mainsail in relation to the wind. The mainsheet is the rope that controls the mainsail and it runs from the sail to the aft end of the boat
• Adjust the angle of the sails : Adjust the angle of the sails until the sailboat is sailing at a 45-degree angle against the wind. Sailing at a 45-degree angle to the wind direction will allow the sailboat to sail close-hauled and help it to travel in the direction of the wind without being stopped by the wind forces

The keel of the sailboat will provide stability and prevent the sailboat from capsizing or being blown sideways by the wind. The keel is a heavy, vertical fin-like structure that extends down into the water from the bottom of the sailboat's hull.

As the sailboat moves against the wind through the water at a 45-degree angle, the keel acts as a counterbalance to the force of the wind on the sails, helping to keep the boat upright and on course.

3. Use The Tiller/Steering

The third step of sailing against the wind is to continuously use the tiller/steering on the sailboat. When sailing against the wind, the tiller or steering is an essential tool that the sailor uses to maintain the boat's course and angle to the wind.

Using the tiller/steering system when sailing against the wind will:

• Keep the boat close-hauled : When sailing against the wind, the boat needs to be pointed as close to the wind as possible. This is known as close-hauled sailing. To achieve this, the sailor must use the tiller or steering to keep the boat pointed upwind which helps the boat maintain its course and speed at a 45-degree angle to the wind direction
• Balance the boat : When sailing against the wind, the boat is heeled over to one side as the force of the wind pushes against the sails. The sailor should use the tiller or steering to balance the boat and prevent it from tipping over. This involves making small adjustments to the boat's angle and direction to maintain a stable and controlled sailing posture. The keel will also help with the balance of the boat in the wind
• Maintain forward momentum : Sailing against the wind requires a delicate balance between pointing the boat upwind and maintaining forward momentum. The sailor should use the tiller or steering to maintain the boat's speed and ensure that it is moving steadily forward even when sailing directly into the wind. Getting the right balance between sailing in a zig-zag pattern and maintaining boat speed is crucial

With practice and experience, sailors can become skilled at using the tiller/steering to navigate against the wind and enjoy the unique challenges and rewards of sailing upwind.

When steering the boat against the wind, a sailor should avoid:

• Turning the boat too slowly : When steering the boat against the wind, avoid turning too slowly when tacking as this can cause the sailboat to get caught in irons which can halt any progress when sailing against the wind
• Oversteering : When steering the boat against the wind, avoid steering it too much (oversteering) as this can result in the sailboat not pointing at a 45-degree angle against the wind and instead have the point of sail close reach or broad reach which will halt progress when sailing against the wind
• Tangling the jib sheet : Jib sheets might tangle with some fixtures on the fore deck and will need to be unwrapped. To prevent this from happening, close all fore deck hatches, keep some tension on both jib sheets before and during the tack and clear off any item that may snag the sheets

4. Adjust The Sails Continuously

The fourth step of sailing against the wind is to continuously adjust the sails as the sailboat progresses upwind.

To adjust the sails when sailing against the wind:

• Trim the sails : To sail efficiently upwind, the sails need to be trimmed in tight. This means pulling the mainsail in close to the centerline of the boat and tightening the jib sail to bring it as close to the wind as possible. This will help the boat maintain its course and speed and reduce the amount of sideways drift.
• Watch the telltales : The telltales are small strips of ribbon or yarn that are attached to the sails and help the sailor gauge the airflow across the sail. When sailing against the wind, the telltales on the jib sail should be flowing straight back indicating that the sail is at the proper angle to the wind. If the telltales are fluttering or streaming forward, the sail may need to be adjusted
• Use the boom vang : The boom vang is a line that runs from the bottom of the mast to the boom and helps control the shape of the mainsail. When sailing upwind, the boom vang can be tightened to flatten the mainsail and reduce its draft. This can help the boat sail more efficiently and maintain forward momentum
• Adjust the traveler : The traveler is a device that runs across the cockpit or deck and allows the mainsail to be adjusted from side to side. When sailing upwind, the traveler can be moved windward to help keep the boat on course and maintain a balanced sail plan

Overall, adjusting the sails when sailing against the wind is a delicate balance between maximizing efficiency and maintaining control.

With practice and experience, sailors can learn to adjust the sails to suit the prevailing wind conditions and sail upwind with confidence and skill.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are the most commonly asked questions about sailing against the wind.

How Long Does It Take To Learn How To Sail Against The Wind?

It will take a beginner sailor 3 to 5 attempts to properly sail a sailboat against the wind without any supervision. The timeframe of this is typically within 1 week of practicing 3 to 5 times. However, some sailors may take longer.

What Are The Forces When Sailing Against The Wind?

When sailing against the wind, there are four forces at play:

• Wind Force : The wind is the primary force that is opposing the motion of the sailboat. As the boat sails into the wind, the wind exerts a force on the sails that resists the forward motion of the boat
• Lift Force : The sails generate lift which is a force that propels the boat forward. When sailing against the wind, the lift force is reduced as the sails are not able to generate as much lift as when sailing with the wind
• Resistance Force : As the boat moves through the water, it creates a resistance force which is the force that opposes the forward motion of the boat. This force is influenced by the shape of the hull, the size of the boat, and the speed of the boat
• Friction Force : The friction between the water and the hull of the boat generates a force that opposes the forward motion of the boat. This force increases as the speed of the boat increases

When sailing against the wind, the opposing forces of wind and resistance become more dominant making it more difficult for the boat to move forward.

Sailors use the tacking technique which involves zigzagging back and forth across the wind to make progress against the wind. This allows the boat to use the lift force of the sails more effectively while minimizing the resistance force.

What Are The Benefits Of Sailing Against The Wind?

The benefits of sailing against the wind are:

• Improved sailing skills : Sailing against the wind requires more skill and technique than sailing with the wind. It can be a great way to improve your sailing skills as you learn how to adjust the sails, steer the boat, and navigate more effectively
• Access to more destinations : When sailing with the wind, a sailor's options for destinations may be limited by the wind direction. However, when sailing against the wind, a sailor can access more destinations that may have been previously out of reach
• Greater control : Sailing against the wind requires more attention and focus but it gives a sailor greater control over the boat. A sailor can fine-tune the sails and the boat's position to optimize the speed and direction without issues or limitations
• Challenge and adventure : Sailing against the wind can be a thrilling and adventurous experience. It requires mental and physical toughness and the satisfaction of successfully navigating against the wind can be very rewarding

Overall, while sailing against the wind may require more effort and skill, it can also provide a unique and exciting sailing experience with its own set of rewards.

What Are The Risks Of Sailing Against The Wind?

The risks of sailing against the wind are:

• Increased risk of capsizing : When sailing against the wind, the boat may be more prone to capsizing due to the combination of wind and waves. The boat may be more difficult to control in these conditions and sailors will need to be prepared for any issues with the sailboat capsizing
• Fatigue and physical strain : Sailing against the wind requires more physical effort and can be more tiring than sailing with the wind. This can lead to fatigue and physical strain which can affect a sailor's ability to navigate safely
• Navigation challenges : Sailing against the wind may require more careful navigation and planning as sailor may need to navigate around obstacles and adjust their course more frequently. This can be challenging especially in unfamiliar waters or adverse weather conditions
• Increased wear and tear on equipment : Sailing against the wind can be more taxing on the sailboat equipment as the sails and rigging are subject to greater stress, force, and strain. This can increase the risk of equipment failure or damage

To mitigate these risks, it is important to be prepared and to have the proper training and experience to handle sailing against the wind. This includes ensuring that the sailboat and equipment are in good condition, understanding the weather and navigation conditions, and taking appropriate safety precautions. It is also important to stay alert and attentive while sailing and to make adjustments as needed to ensure safe navigation.

What Should Be Avoided When Sailing Against The Wind?

When sailing against the wind, sailors should avoid:

• Pinching : Pinching is a term used in sailing to describe the act of sailing too close to the wind. When sailing against the wind, the boat needs to sail at a 45-degree angle to the wind to maintain forward momentum and speed. Sailors should avoid pinching when sailing against the wind
• Sailing in irons : Sailing in irons is when a sailboat is sailing directly against the wind. This will prevent the boat from moving forward against the wind and instead the sail angle will need to be adjusted to close haul to progress further
• Turning too slowly or oversteering : When sailing upwind, avoid turning the sailboat too slow or oversteering it as this can affect the ability of the boat to travel against the wind effectively

Glossary of Nautical Terms: The Ultimate Guide to 500+ Boating and Sailing Terms

Navigating the world of boating and sailing requires a good understanding of many nautical terms. From the anatomy of a boat to the mechanics of sailing, there are many terms that any boater or sailor needs to know.

Knowing some basic nautical terms is vital for safety, effective communication, and mastering the art of boating and sailing, whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a novice.

In this article, we’ve gathered 500+ nautical terms to cover general boating and sailing jargon. Enhance your knowledge and sail with confidence!

Let’s dive into the fascinating language of boating!

Nautical terms list

A b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z.

Aback – when the wind strikes the sails from the opposite side of the vessel than intended (lee side).

Abaft – toward the stern or rear of the boat.

Abaft the beam – a point on the boat’s side or stern that is behind a line perpendicular to the beam, which is the widest part of the boat.

Abeam – at right angles to the centerline of a boat.

Aboard – on or in a boat.

Abreast – side by side.

Adrift – a boat that is floating without any propulsion or anchor holding it in place.

Aft – toward the back of the ship (stern).

Aground – a boat that has run aground or is stuck on a reef or sandbar.

Ahead – forward of the ship, in forward direction.

Ahoy – a nautical greeting used to call or draw attention.

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Aids to Navigation – navigational tools such as lighthouses, buoys, and beacons, that supplement natural landmarks, to help boats navigate safely.

AIS – Automatic Identification System.

Alee – side of the boat that is sheltered from the wind, opposite to windward.

Aloft – overhead, above the deck of the boat. .

Amidship – at or near the middle part of the boat.

Anchor – a heavy object used to grip to the ground underwater and keep a boat in place.

Anchorage   – a suitable place in a body of water where boats can anchor or moor.

Apparent wind – The perceived wind speed and direction experienced the crew on a moving boat.

ARPA – Automatic Radar Plotting Aid.

Astern – behind or towards the rear of a boat. Opposite to ahead.

Athwartships – perpendicular to the centerline of a ship or boat.

Aweigh – the position of an anchor when it is being lifted from the seabed.

Azimuth – horizontal angle between a fixed reference point and the direction or bearing of an object. Typically measured in degrees and clockwise direction.

Back a sail – process of reversing the direction of a sail in order to slow down or stop a boat.

Backstay – a wire or rope that supports the mast from the stern of the boat and prevents its forward movement.

Backwinded – when the wind hits a sail on the opposite side to which it was intended to be set.

Baggywrinkle – protective covering that is placed on the rigging of a sailing vessel to prevent wear and tear from the sails.

Bail – to remove water from a boat using a bucket or other container.

Bailers – devices used for removing water from a boat.

Bale – a large bundle or package of goods or supplies that are tightly bound together for storage or transportation on a boat.

Ballast – a heavy material that is placed in the hull of a ship or boat to increase its stability and control its buoyancy.

Ballast keel – type of keel designed to provide ballast to a sailing vessel, typically a sailboat or yacht.

Bar – a shallow area of water that forms at the entrance or exit of a harbor or river.

Barber hauler – a line or wire attached to the jib or spinnaker sheet used to adjust its angle.

Batten – a thin, flat piece of wood or metal used to reinforce a sail.

Batten down – to secure hatches and other openings on a boat to prevent water from entering.

Beam – the widest part of a boat, usually in the middle.

Beam reach – a point of sail where the wind is blowing perpendicular to the side of the sailboat.

Bear away /  Bear off – to steer the boat away from the wind.

Bearing – compass direction of an object relative to the boat’s position and expressed in degrees from true or magnetic north.

Beat – to sail upwind by tacking back and forth (zigzag) at an angle to the wind.

Belay – to secure a rope or line to a cleat or other fitting to prevent it from running out.

Below – lower deck or level of a boat.

Bend – to tie or fasten a rope or line to an object, such as a sail or anchor, using a knot or hitch.

Berth – (1) a place in a harbor where a boat can be docked or moored. (2) a bed or sleeping area on a boat.

Bight – bend or loop in a rope.

Bilge – the lowest part of a boat’s hull where water that enters the boat collects.

Binnacle – a case that holds a boat’s compass.

Bitter end – the end or final part of a line or chain.

Blanketing – a tactical sailing maneuver where one boat blocks the wind from reaching another boat to slowing it down.

Block – a pulley used to change the direction or mechanical advantage of a rope.

Bluewater sailing – to sail on the open ocean as opposed to coastal or lake sailing.

Boat – a craft or vessel designed to float on water and typically propelled by oars, sails, or an engine. Can be used for transportation, recreation, or commercial purposes.

Boat hook – device used for reaching or pulling objects in the water, or for pushing off from docks or other boats.

Boatswain – (pronounced “bosun”) a crew member responsible for the maintenance of the boat and its equipment.

Bobstay – supporting wire stay that runs from the bow of a boat to the end of the bowsprit, helping to hold it steady and secure.

Bollard – a short, thick post used for securing ropes or cables on a ship or dock.

Bolt Rope – a rope sewn onto the edge of a sail, to attach the sail to the rigging of the boat.

Boom – horizontal spar that extends from the mast of a sailboat and holds the foot of the sail. 

Boom Crutch – a device used to hold the boom up and in place when the sail is not in use, usually while the boat is anchored or moored.  The crutch is stowed when the boat is sailing.

Boom vang – a device on a sailboat that helps control the shape and tension of the mainsail by applying downward force to the boom. Helps to control the sail’s twist, and keep the boom from lifting.

Boot stripe – painted stripe on the hull of a boat that runs the length of the boat at or near the waterline.

Boot tope – a boot stripe at the boat’s designed waterline.

Bow – the front or forward section of the boat.

Bowline – (1) a docking line at the bow or forward part of the boat.(2) knot used to create a fixed loop at the end of a line that will not slip or come undone under load.

Bow thruster – a device used to maneuver a boat in tight spaces.

Bowsprit – a spar extending forward from a ship’s bow, primarily used to anchor the forestay for the jib or other headsails.

Breast line – a dock line going perpendicular from the centerline of the boat to the dock. Used to temporarily hold a boat close to the dock .

Bridge – the area of a ship from which it is navigated and controlled.

Bridle – line or wire attached to the boat at both ends and used to distribute the load. 

Brightwork – varnished or polished surfaces such as wood or metal on a boat.

Broach – when a boat suddenly turns broadside to the wind and waves, causing it to heel over excessively and potentially leading to a loss of control.

Broad reach – point of sail where the wind is coming from behind the boat but not directly downwind.

Bulkhead – a dividing wall or partition separating different compartments within a boat.

Bullseye – a block with one or more holes through the center used for leading lines, halyards, or sheets.

Bulwark – vertical extension of the boat’s hull that increases the height of the sides and helps to prevent water from coming on board and to keep the crew in.

Bunk – narrow bed often built into the wall or arranged in tiers to maximize space.

Buoy – a floating device used as a navigational aid or to mark the location of hazards or obstructions.

Burdened vessel – a vessel that, according to navigational rules must give way to a “privileged vessel”. It is more commonly called a “give-way” vessel.

Cabin – an enclosed area on a boat used for living quarters or storage.

Cabin sole – the floor or deck of the cabin on a boat.

Cable – (1) Heavy chain or rope attached to an anchor. (2) A unit of length equal to 120 fathoms or 720 feet (219 meters) in US customary units (USCS).

Can – a type of navigational buoy.

Canvas – material used for sails in the early days. Still used for boat covers, dodgers, biminis, and other accessories.

Capsize – to turn over or flip a boat.

Capstan – a machine used to raise heavy objects such as anchors.

Cargo – goods or materials transported by ship or other means of transport.

Cast off – to untie a boat from a mooring or dock, or to release a line from a cleat or bollard.

Catamaran – a boat with two parallel hulls.

Catboat – sailboat with a single sail mounted on a mast set well forward in the bow of the boat.

Celestial navigation – method of navigating a boat by using the positions of celestial bodies such as stars, the moon, and planets.

Centerboard – a board lowered through a slot in the centerline or keel to help reduce sideways drift. Also spelled centreboard.

Centerline – line at the center of a sailboat, from the bow (front) to the stern (rear), that divides the boat into port and starboard halves.

Chafe – damage to a line, or cable caused by rubbing against a rough surface or another object.

Chafe gear/ Chafing gear – gear used to prevent chafe. Chafe gear materials commonly include rubber, canvas, and leather.

Chain plates – metal plates that are part of the sailboat rigging system, and are used to attach shrouds and stays to the deck.

Chart – a map used for navigation.

Chart datum – level surface provided on a chart and used by boaters to determine water depth at any given point and to ensure safe passage.

Chine – intersection between the bottom and sides of a boat, that creates an angle or ridge along the hull. Not found in round bottom boats.

Chock – a fitting attached to the deck and used to guide anchor, mooring or dock lines.

Clear the decks – to remove or tidy up everything from a boat’s decks to prepare for action or to clean the ship.

Cleat – a fitting on a boat’s deck to which a rope or chain can be tied.

Clew – the lower aft corner of a triangular sail or the lower corners of a four-sided sail.

Close hauled – a point of sail where the boat is sailing as close to the wind as possible.

Close reach – point of sail where the wind is coming over the side of the boat at an angle between a beam reach and a close hauled.

Clove hitch – a type of knot used to attach a line to a post, pole, or another line.

Coaming – raised edge or border around an opening or a raised area on a boat to prevent water from entering the cockpit, hatch, or other openings.

Cockpit – the area of a boat or ship where the steering and navigation equipment is located.

Coil – to arrange a line in a series of circular loops, ready for stowing.

Comms – short for “communications”, referring to communication equipment and systems on a ship.

Companionway – a stairway or ladder leading from one deck to another.

Compass – a navigational instrument used to determine direction relative to the Earth’s magnetic poles.

Compound sheer – curvature of a boat’s deck from the bow to the stern, where the height of the deck changes both horizontally and vertically. .

Container ship – a type of ship designed to transport standardized shipping containers.

Course – the intended direction of a boat’s movement.

Coxswain – the person who steers and directs a small boat.

CQD – a distress signal used in radio communication before the adoption of SOS . A combination of two signals: “CQ” (“sécu“, from the French word sécurité) which means “alert message to all stations”, and “D” to indicate “distress”. See meaning of CQD .

Crane – a machine used for lifting and moving heavy objects on a boat.

Crew – the people who operate a boat.

Cringle – small eye or grommet in a sail used to attach lines or fittings.

Cuddy – small shelter on a boat used for storage or for the crew to take refuge from the weather.

Cunningham – a control line that is used to adjust the tension of the luff (forward edge) of a sail.

Current – the flow of water in a particular direction, often caused by tides or winds.

Cutter rig – a type of sailboat rigging that features two or more head sails, or foresails, mounted on the forestay.

D signal – a signal used in maritime communication to indicate “keep clear, I am maneuvering with difficulty.” It is represented by a yellow and blue square flag (Delta flag).

Daggerboard – similar to a centerboard, it slides up and down in a slot in the hull. Common on catamarans, trimarans, and some small monohull sailing boats.

Davit – a crane-like device used for lowering or raising small boats on a ship.

Dead ahead – Directly in front of the boat and its centerline.

Dead astern – Directly behind the boat or straight aft.

Dead reckoning (DR)/ Deduced reckoning – estimated position based on course, speed, and time from a known past position.

Dead run – when the wind is directly behind a sailboat. The boat is running directly downwind.

Deadhead – a floating log or piece of timber that poses a hazard to navigation.

Deadlight – a type of weather cover designed to fit into a larger opening in a boat’s hull or deck and used to close off an opening in bad weather.

Deck – the horizontal surface of a boat’s hull above the waterline.

Deck plate – a metal or plastic plate that covers an opening in the deck of a boat, providing access to equipment or storage spaces such as the bilge or fuel tank.

Depth sounder – a device used to measure the depth of water.

Deviation – difference between the true north and magnetic north which affects the accuracy of the compass. Is caused by a vessel’s own magnetic field or metallic objects.

Dinghy –  small boat often used as tenders to larger boats, to ferry people and supplies to and from shore.

Displacement – (1) the weight of the water displaced by the boat when afloat. (2) the weight of the boat itself, including all the equipment, fuel, and supplies on board.

Displacement hull – a hull design that displaces a volume of water equal to the boat’s weight for improved buoyancy.

Dock – a structure built along the shore or waterfront for boats to moor, tie up, or load and unload passengers or cargo.

Dodger – cover that extends above the cockpit of a boat to provide shelter from wind, spray, and rain.

Double ender – a type of boat or ship that has a pointed bow and stern, which are similar in shape and size, allowing for better stability and maneuverability.

Downhaul – a line used to apply downward tension or pull on a sail or other piece of equipment.

Downwind – when the wind is blowing from behind a vessel or in the same direction the boat is traveling. Sailing away from the wind.

Draft – the depth of a boat’s hull below the waterline.

Drift – distance and direction a vessel is carried off course due to external forces such as wind, waves, or current.

Drogue – sea anchor device that is attached to the boat by a line and deployed overboard to create drag and slow down drift.

Drop keel – a retractable keel that can be lowered and raised as needed.

Dry dock – a structure used for repairing, building, and maintaining boats out of the water.

DSC – Digital Selective Calling, a method of communication used in maritime radio systems.

Ease – to slacken or loosen.

Ebb – the flow of tidewater away from land, usually occurs between high and low tide.

EP – Estimated Position.

EPIRB – Emergency position indicating radio beacon, a device used to alert search and rescue services in case of an emergency.

ETA – Estimated Time of Arrival.

ETD – Estimated Time of Departure.

Fairlead – a fitting on a boat’s deck used to guide ropes or cables.

Fairway – a navigable channel or area of water.

Fall off – to steer a vessel away from the wind. Also known as Head Down.

Fathom – a unit of measurement equal to 6 feet (1.83m), used to measure water depth.

Fender – a cushioning device, placed between boats, or between a boat and a pier, to prevent damage.

Ferry – a boat or ship used to transport passengers and vehicles across a body of water.

Fiddle – a raised guard around the edge of a table, counter, or other flat surfaces to prevent objects from falling off.

Figure Eight Knot – a type of stopper knot, that looks like the number eight, and is used to prevent the end of a rope from passing through a retaining device such as a ring, grommet, or block.

Figurehead – a carved ornament mounted on the bow of a boat.

Fix – the vessel position determined by taking bearings or sightings on three or more objects or landmarks.

Flare – (1) a device used to signal for help or to mark the location of a person or object in the water. (2) the outward curve of a boat.

Fleet – a group of ships.

Float – a buoyant object used for marking channels or hazards in the water.

Flood – the incoming or rising tide. Opposite to ebb.

Flotsam – debris or wreckage from a ship that is floating on the surface of the water.

Fluke – the part of an anchor that digs into the seabed to hold the vessel in place.

Foghorn – a loud horn used to signal in foggy conditions.

Following sea – wave pattern approaching a vessel from astern, following the vessel’s direction of travel.

Force 8 – gale level winds with average speeds of 34 to 40 knots (39 to 46 mph) according to the Beaufort Wind Scale. Level 12 is a hurricane .

Fore – towards the front or bow of a ship.

Forecastle – Sometimes abbreviated fo’c’sle, the forward-most part of the ship, often used as the crew’s living quarters.

Foredeck   –  the boat’s deck at the bow or front of the vessel.

Foremast – the mast located nearest to the bow (front) on a boat with more than one mast. Usually the second tallest mast.

Forepeak   – small compartment at the forward end of a ship, below deck, and used for storage of equipment, sails, or anchors.

Foresail – sail located forward of the mast on a sailing vessel.

Forestay – a stay that supports the mast from the front of the boat.

Foretriangle – the triangular area of sail between the forestay, mast, and deck of a sailing vessel.

Forward – towards the front or bow of a boat.

Fouled – Fouled- entangled or obstructed.

Fractional rig – Fractional rig- sailing rig in which the forestay does not run to the top of the mast but instead attaches at a point below the top, or “fractional” point.

Freeboard – the vertical distance between the waterline and the main deck of a boat.

Furl – to roll up and secure a sail.

Gaff – a spar positioned diagonally across the mast and used to support and control the sail.

Galley – the ship’s kitchen or cooking area.

Gangway – a movable ramp or platform used for boarding or disembarking a boat.

Gasket – a rope used to secure a sail to a spar or mast. Term mainly used in square-rigged ships.

Gear – various pieces of equipment and supplies used to operate and maintain a boat, including sails, lines, winches, anchors , electronics, safety gear, etc.

Genoa – a type of headsail that is larger than the jib and overlaps the mainsail. It is said the sail originated in Genoa Italy, hence its name.

Gimbals – a device used to keep a compass or other instrument level and stable.

Give – a vessel that requires taking action and keeping clear of the Stand-on vessel.

GMDSS – Global Maritime Distress and Safety System.

GMT – Greenwich Meridian Time. Became Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) in 1972.

GNSS – Global Navigation Satellite System.

Go about – to turn the boat through the wind during the tack.

Going to weather – sailing against wind and seas.

Gooseneck – fitting that attaches the boom of a sailboat to the mast. Designed to allow the boom to pivot up and down and side to side.

GPS – Global Positioning System, a satellite-based navigation system used for determining location and navigation path.

Grab rails – cabin fittings for hand-holding and personal safety when moving around the boat.

Great Circles – method of defining the shortest distance between two points on the globe’s surface.

Grog – a mixture of rum and water served to sailors in the 18th century.

Ground tackle – equipment used to anchor a boat. Includes the anchor, anchor chain or rope, and any other equipment required for anchorage.

Grounding – when a boat runs aground on a shallow area or rocks.

Guard rail – also known as a lifeline, is a safety railing system that runs around the perimeter of a boat, to prevent crew and passengers from falling overboard.

Gunwale – the upper edge of a boat’s side.

Guy – a steadying line used to control the end of a spar.

Gybe – another term for jibe.

Half – a flag flown at a lowered position as a sign of mourning.

Halyard – a rope or line used for hoisting or lowering a sail.

Hanks – metal fittings or hooks used to attach a sail to a stay of a sailboat.

Hard alee – a command given on a sailing vessel to turn the helm and have the bow of the boat through the wind as quickly as possible.

Hard Chine – hard or abrupt intersection between the bottom and sides of a boat, that creates an angle or ridge along the hull. Not found in round bottom boats.

Hard over – to turn the steering wheel as fast as possible.

HAT – Highest Astronomical Tide.

Hatch – an opening in a boat’s deck used for access or ventilation.

Hawser – a large rope used for towing or mooring a ship.

Head – (1) the toilet or bathroom on a boat (2) the upper corner or end of a triangular sail.

Head Down – to steer a vessel away from the wind. Also known as Fall Off.

Head to Wind – when the bow of the boat points directly into the wind.

Header – when wind direction changes, causing the boat to head down.

Headfoil – streamlined rod surrounding the forestay, and used to furl and unfurl the headsail.

Heading – the direction in which a boat bow is pointed or aimed. Usually expressed as an angle in degrees relative to the north or another reference.

Headsail – sail located forward of the mast on a sailing vessel. See Foresail.

Headstay – a stay that supports the mast from the front of the boat. See Forestay.

Headway – forward motion or progress made by a vessel through the water. opposite to sternway.

Heave to – to stop a boat’s forward progress.

Heel – the lean of the boat to one side and caused by the winds force on the sails.

Helm – the steering apparatus of a boat, including the wheel or tiller .

Helmsman – crew member at the helm and responsible for steering the boat.

Helmsperson – person who steers the boat. See Helmsmans.

Hike – to lean out over the side of the boat to balance it.

Hike out – the practice of leaning over the windward side of a sailboat in order to keep it balanced and prevent it from tipping over.

Hiking stick – a device used to control the tiller from a certain distance.

Hitch – a knot used to attach a rope or line to an object, such as a post, ring, or hook.

Hoist – to raise something, usually a sail, up a mast or spar using halyards or other lines.

Hold – the interior space of a ship or vessel used for storing cargo or goods.

Hook – slang for anchor.

Hove to – see heave to.

Hull – the main body or frame of a boat.

Hull speed – the maximum speed at which a keelboat can travel through the water.

Icebreaker – a type of ship designed to navigate through ice-covered waters.

IMO – International Maritime Organisation.

In irons – when a sailboat heads directly into the wind, becomes stuck or stalled, and is unable to move forward or steer effectively.

Inboard – inside the hull of a boat, as opposed to outside or outboard.

IOR – International Offshore Rating.

IRPCS – International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea.

Isobars – lines that connect points of equal atmospheric pressure on a weather map.

ITU – International Telecommunication Union.

Jack line – a length of webbing or wire that is secured to a boat’s deck, running fore and aft, that is used to attach a safety harness and tether to the boat.

Jackstay – a line or wire that runs between two points on a vessel to support or guide a load between those points.

Jacobs Ladder  – a rope ladder that is used to climb aboard a ship or to climb up to the crow’s nest of a mast.

Jetsam – goods or materials intentionally thrown overboard from a ship in distress to lighten the ship’s load. Different from flotsam, where items are accidentally lost and float at sea.

Jetty – a long structure that extends from the shore into a river or ocean.  Used as a platform for fishing or for docking boats. Typically made of concrete, stone, or other materials.

Jib – a triangular sail at the front of a boat.

Jibe – to turn a sailboat so the wind hits the sail from the opposite side by turning the boat’s stern through the wind. Also Gybe.

Jiffy reefing – a technique used to quickly reduce the sail area of a sail in high winds.

Jury – a temporary arrangement or makeshift repair used to replace damaged or lost gear.

Kedge – small, secondary anchor of a boat.

Keel – the centerline structure running along the bottom of a boat’s hull.

Keelson – a longitudinal beam or structure that runs along the bottom of a boat hull, parallel to the keel, typically found in larger vessels.

Ketch – a two-masted sailboat, with the main mast located forward and the smaller mizzen mast aft. 

Kicking strap – also known as a boom vang or simply a vang, is a line or mechanical device used to control the boom on a sailboat.

Knot – a unit of speed equal to one nautical mile per hour (1 knot = 1.15 miles per hour = 1.85 kilometers per hour).

Landfall – the first sighting or arrival at land after a voyage at sea.

Lanyard – a line used for securing or attaching equipment on a boat.

LAT – Lowest Astronomical Tide.

Latitude – a measure in degrees of a boat’s position north or south of the equator.

Launch – (1) to put a boat into the water from a dry dock or trailer (2) a small, open motorboat used for short trips to and from shore or ship.

Lazarette – small storage compartment on a boat, typically located aft and below the cockpit or deck.

Lazy jac k –  lines used to help control the mainsail of a sailboat when it is being lowered.

Lead – term used to indicate the direction in which a line runs.

Lee – the sheltered side of a boat, away from the wind.

Lee cloths – pieces of fabric or netting used to create a barrier along the side of a berth (sleeping area) to prevent the user to slide out due to boat movement.

Lee helm – condition where the boat tends to steer away from the wind.

Lee shore – a coast or shoreline located to the lee (downwind) of a boat. It is generally recommended to keep a safe distance from lee shores when navigating in windy or rough conditions.

Leech – the rear edge of a sail, typically the edge of the sail that is not attached to a mast, spar, or another rigging.

Leech Line – a line used to tighten the leech.

Leeward – the direction away from the wind. Opposite to Winward.

Leeway – the sideways drift of a boat caused by wind force or currents.

Life Jacket – A buoyancy aid that helps a person float and stay afloat in the water, reducing the risk of drowning. Also known as a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) .

Lifeline – a line or cable used to prevent crew members from falling overboard.

Lifesaving equipment – devices used to save lives in case of an emergency, such as lifeboats, life rafts, and life jackets .

Light – a navigational aid used to indicate the location of hazards or to guide ships into port.

Lighthouse – a tower or structure with a bright light used to guide ships at sea.

Line – a rope or cable used on a boat for various purposes, such as securing cargo or tying up to a dock.

List – the leaning or tilting of a boat to one side due to uneven weight distribution.

Log – (1) device used to measure a boat’s speed and distance traveled (2) a record of the details of a voyage. See logbook.

Logbook – a record of a boat’s activities, including its course, speed, and events.

Longitude – a measure, in degrees,  of a boat’s position east or west of the Prime Meridian.

Lubber’s line – reference line or mark on a boat’s compass that helps the user determine the boat’s heading or direction of travel.

Luff – the edge of a sail closest to the wind.

Mainsail (Main) – the largest and most important sail on a sailboat, is typically attached to the mast and boom.

Mainsheet – the line that controls the position and tension of the mainsail. It is typically attached to the aft end of the boom and runs aft to the cockpit.

Manning – the act of providing personnel to operate a ship.

Mariner – a person who navigates or operates a ship.

Marlinspike – a tool used for working with ropes and knots. Has a pointed end for separating strands, and a flattened end for splicing.

Mast – a tall vertical pole that supports the sails.

Mast step – fitting or structure on a sailboat that supports the bottom of the mast and attaches it to the hull.

Masthead rig – type of rig in which the forestay attaches to the mast at the very top of it, or masthead.

Mayday – distress signal used in radio communications to signal a life-threatening emergency on board.

MCA – Maritime and Coastguard Agency (UK).

Measured mile – one nautical mile, typically marked with buoys or other navigational aids, used to measure the speed and performance of a boat.

Meridian – a line of longitude that runs north-south and passes through both the North and South Poles.

MHWN – Mean High Water Neaps.

MHWS – Mean High Water Springs.

Midship – Approximately the central section of a boat, typically the widest part of the hull.

Mizzen – the aft-most mast on a ship.

MLWN – Mean Low Water Neaps.

MLWS – Mean Low Water Springs.

MMSI – Maritime Mobile Service Identity.

Mooring – the act of securing a boat to a dock or buoy.

Motor – when sails and motor are used simultaneously on a sailboat.

Nautical mile – a unit of distance used in navigation, equal to one minute of latitude. A nautical mile is slightly more than a standard mile. 1 nautical mile = 1.15 miles = 1.85 kilometers. 

Navigation – the process of planning and directing the course of a boat.

Navigation Rules – set of regulations that govern the safe navigation of vessels on the water, including rules for preventing collisions , signaling, and right of way.

Navigator – a person who plans and directs the course of a boat.

Nun – a navigation aid used to indicate the edge of a navigable channel or the location of a hazard.

Oar – a long, narrow paddle used to row a boat.

Offing – refers to the open sea, particularly a safe distance from the shore.

Old salt – experienced sailor who has spent a significant portion of their life at sea.

Onboard – on or in the ship.

Outboard – (1) away from the centerline of a boat  (2) a detachable engine mounted on the stern of a boat.

Outhaul – a line that controls the tension and position of the sail along the boom.

Overall length (OAL) – the maximum length of a vessel, measured from the outermost point at the bow to the outermost point at the stern, including any protrusions or extensions.

Overboard – over the side of the ship.

P Flag – also called Blue Peter flag,  is a nautical signal flag that indicates a ship is preparing to leave port. It is a blue flag with a white square in the center.

Paddle – a flat blade used for propelling a small boat through the water.

Painter – a rope or cable used to secure or tow a small boat to a larger ship or dock.

Pan Pan – radio call to request assistance from other vessels or authorities. Unlike Mayday, Pan-pan is used when there is no immediate danger to life or the vessel’s safety.

Pay out – to let out a rope or cable gradually. Opposite to paying out is “taking in” or “reeling in”.

Pedestal – column or base used to elevate and secure equipment, such as the steering wheel and controls, for easy access and stability.

Pennant – long, narrow, triangular flag that is typically used on boats and ships for signaling or identification purposes.

PFD – personal flotation device, also known as a life jacket.

Pier – raised structure that extends from the shore over the water and is used for docking  boats, as well as for recreational activities.

Piling – a vertical support used to anchor a dock or pier.

Pilot – a person who navigates a ship through difficult or unfamiliar waters.

Pitch – the angle of a ship’s hull relative to the horizontal plane.

Planing – when a boat rises up and glides over the surface of the water, rather than displacing water as a traditional boat would.

Point of sail – the direction that a sailing vessel is traveling relative to the wind, e.g. beam reach, broad reach, upwind, downwind, etc.

Polaris – a star located in the constellation Ursa Minor, commonly known as the North Star or Pole Star. Used for centuries as a navigational aid.

Port – the left side of a boat when facing forward.

Port tack – sailing with the wind coming from the port side of the boat, and the sail is set to the starboard side of the boat.

Preventer – a line used to prevent the boom from accidentally jibing (moving suddenly and dangerously from one side to the other).

Privileged vessel – vessel that has the right of way over other vessels in certain situations as defined by navigation rules.

Proa – a traditional outrigger canoe with a single sail and a long, narrow hull.

Propeller – a device used to propel a boat through the water.

Pulpit – safety railing located at the bow of a boat that helps prevent people from falling overboard.

Q flag – a yellow flag that is flown by boat to indicate that it is healthy and to request free pratique (permission to enter a port or receive officials from shore).

Quarter – the side of a ship between the stern and amidships.

Quay – pronounced as “key” or “kee.” Is a wharf used for loading and unloading cargo or passengers from ships.

Radar – a device that uses radio waves to detect the presence and location of objects, used for navigation and collision avoidance .

Ratchet – a mechanism that allows a rope to be tightened in one direction only.

Reach – point of sail where the wind is coming from the side of the boat, at an angle between a close-hauled course (where the boat is sailing as close to the wind as possible) and a run (where the wind is coming directly from behind the boat). The three types of reach are close reach, beam reach, and broad reach, depending on the angle of the wind relative to the boat.

Ready about – to signal to the crew that the boat is about to tack, or turn into the wind.

Reef – to reduce the size of a sail by folding or rolling a portion of it.

Reeling in –  to retrieve a fishing line or reel.

Rhumb line – a line that crosses all meridians of longitude at the same angle. Also called a loxodrome.

Rigging – the system of ropes, cables, and other devices used to support and control the sails of a boat.

Right of way – the privilege of a vessel to maintain its course over others based on established navigational rules. it is determined by the vessel type,  position, course, speed, and other factors.

Roach – the curved portion of the sail that extends beyond a straight line drawn between the head and clew.

Rocker – upward curvature of a boat’s keel to the bow and stern.

Rode – the line or chain attached to the anchor and used to hold the boat in place while at anchor.

Roller reefing – to shorten the sail area by wrapping a sail around a boom or forestay.

Rope – cordage or line used aboard a vessel, including halyards, sheets, dock lines, and anchor lines. In nautical terminology, Line is frequently used instead of rope.

Rudder – a flat plate or blade attached to the stern of a boat and used to steer it.

Run aground – to ground a boat on a shallow area or rocks.

Run/running – to sail with the wind aft or directly behind the boat, which is the most downwind point of sail.

Running lights – lights required to be displayed on a boat underway between sunset and sunrise. Consist of red and green sidelights and a white stern light .

Running rigging – the lines such as sheets or halyards used to adjust the position of the sails.

Sail – a piece of fabric attached to a mast or spar and used to capture the wind to propel a boat.

Sail trim – the adjustments made to the sails on a sailboat to optimize their performance in different wind and sea conditions.

Sampan – a flat-bottomed boat typically used in China and Southeast Asia for transportation and fishing.

Samson post – a vertical post or bitt located on the deck or hull of a ship used for securing mooring lines or tow lines.

SAR – Search and Rescue.

SART – Search and Rescue Transponder.

Sat Nav – short for “satellite navigation” refers to the use of GPS to determine a boat’s position and navigate from one location to another.

Schooner – a sailing ship with two or more masts and fore-and-aft sails on the mainmast.

Scope – the ratio between the length of an anchor rode and the water depth. A higher scope, such as 7:1 or 10:1, means that more rode is paid out and the anchor is more securely set in the bottom, providing greater holding power for the boat.

Scull – a method of propulsion in a small boat where a single oar is moved back and forth behind the boat, with the oar pivoting at the stern rather than the side of the boat.

Scupper – a hole or channel in a boat’s deck that allows water to drain off.

Scuttle – to intentionally sink a boat by creating holes in the hull or opening its seacocks to let water in. Also refers to a small hatch or opening in a ship’s deck or hull that is used for ventilation, drainage, or access to equipment.

Scuttlebutt – a drinking fountain on a boat, or gossip among sailors.

Sea anchor – a device used to slow down or stabilize a boat in heavy seas.

Sea chest – a compartment in the ship’s hull for pumping seawater.

Sea Cock – a valve fitted to a boat’s hull which allows water to enter or exit through a hose or pipe. Used for draining water from the bilge or for providing water to the engine or other onboard systems.

Sea level – the level of the ocean’s surface used as a reference point for measuring elevation.

Sea room – a safe distance or area available for a boat to maneuver and navigate safely in open waters without colliding with other vessels, obstacles or running aground.

Seafarer – a person who travels by sea, especially for work or adventure.

Seamanship – skills, knowledge, and practices for operating a boat, as well as maintaining and caring for it.

Seaworthy – a boat’s capability to withstand harsh conditions and challenges of the sea.

Sécurité   – term (french) used in marine radio communication to indicate a message that is about to be transmitted concerning the safety of navigation or important meteorological warnings.

Seelonce – term (French) used in marine radio communication to indicate that a distress call is being made and that all other radio traffic should cease.

Self – a feature in boats where any water that enters the cockpit is automatically drained or pumped out.

Set – (1) the trim of a sail (2) the direction in which a vessel is moving in relation to its intended course or direction (3) dropping an anchor and allowing it to settle.

Sextant – a navigational instrument used to determine a boat’s position by measuring the angles between the horizon and celestial objects such as the sun and stars.

Shackle – metal fastener with a removable pin or bolt used to connect two parts of a chain or rigging together or to attach a line or cable to an object.

Sheave – grooved wheel or roller of a block pulley used to guide and redirect lines.

Sheet – a line used to adjust the position of a sail.

Ship – a large seagoing vessel.

Ship’s bell – a bell used to mark time aboard a ship.

Shipshape – in good order and condition.

Shipwreck – the remains of a sunken ship.

Shore – the land bordering a body of water, typically where it meets the water.

Shroud – a rope or cable used to support the mast of a boat.

Skeg – a structural extension of the keel that runs aft beneath the boat’s hull.

Skipper – the captain or person in charge of a ship or boat.

Slack – to loose or not taut lines or cables. Lack of tension or looseness in a sail or other piece of equipment.

Sloop – a sailing vessel that has a single mast with one mainsail and a headsail.

Snubber – a device used to relieve tension on a boat’s anchor chain, prevent the chain from chafing against the boat’s bow, and reduce shock loads on the anchor and chain.

SOG – Speed Over the Ground.

SOLAS – Safety of Life at Sea. An international treaty established in 1914 that sets minimum safety standards for ships.

Sole – the floor or bottom surface of a boat’s cabin or cockpit.

Sonar – a device that uses sound waves to detect the presence and location of underwater objects, used for navigation and detecting hazards.

SOS – Morse code distress signal used as an international standard for emergency situations. Listen to an SOS signal .

Soundings – measurements of the depth of water in a particular area.

Spar – a long, slender pole used to support sails on a boat.

Speed log – a device used to measure a boat’s speed through the water.

Spinnaker – a large sail used for downwind sailing.

Splice – join two ropes to form a permanent loop in a single rope. Involves weaving the strands of the rope together to create a strong, permanent bond.

Spreaders – horizontal struts that are attached to a sailing boat’s mast to keep the mast from bending and to help control the shape of the sails.

Spring line – a line used to control the position of a boat while it is docked.

Squall – a sudden, sharp increase in wind speed, regularly accompanied by rain, thunder, and lightning.

Square knot – also known as a reef knot, is a basic knot used to join two ropes of equal size. 

Stall – when the sail loses its ability to generate lift or control due to a lack of airflow.

Stanchion – vertical pole or post, made of metal or plastic, used to support a railing or guardrail.

Stand – a vessel that has the right-of-way and requires keeping her course and speed.

Standing part – the part of a line that is not actively used to perform a task, such as tying a knot or securing a line to a cleat.Opposite to the working end.

Standing Rigging – fixed lines or wires on a sailboat that support the mast and keep it in place. This includes the forestay, backstay, and shrouds. Different from the running rigging, which is used to control the sails and is adjusted frequently.

Starboard – the right side of a boat when facing forward.

Starboard tack – sailing with the wind coming from the starboard side of the boat, and the sail is set to the port side of the boat.

Stay – a line or wire that supports a mast from the bow (forestay), stern (backstay), or either side (sidestays).

Staysail – a type of sail that is set on a stay instead of a mast.

Steerage way – when a boat moving forward has enough water flowing over its rudder(s) to enable it to be steered effectively.

Stem – the forward-most part of a boat’s bow that curves upward to provide a shape for the hull to cut through the water efficiently.

Stern – the rear or aft part of a boat.

Stern line – a line used to secure the stern of a vessel to a dock, pier, or other mooring point.

Sternpost – the vertical post at the back of the ship’s hull.

Sternway – the reverse or backward motion of a boat.

Stores – the supplies or provisions needed for a vessel’s operation during a voyage.

Stow – to pack or store cargo or equipment on a ship.

Strake – a continuous line of planking or plating along the hull of a boat.

Sump pump  – a device used to remove water that has accumulated in a pit or shower basin.

Swell – a long, rolling wave caused by wind or distant storms .

Tabernacle   – a hinged support structure that enables a mast to be lowered and raised easily. Is a useful feature for sailboats that need to pass under low bridges or power lines.

Tack – (1) the lower forward corner of the sail. (2) To turn a sailboat’s bow through the wind so that the wind catches the opposite side of the sail. (3) noun used to indicate the direction the sailboat is sailing with respect to the wind e.g. port tack or starboard tack.

Tackle – a system of ropes and pulleys used to hoist or move heavy objects on a boat.

Taffrail – the rail or railing around the stern of a vessel,  and is primarily used for safety.

Taking in – furling or reefing a sail to reduce its area.

Tang – metal fitting used to attach standing rigging, such as shrouds and stays, to a mast or spar.

Telltales – thin strips of cloth or yarn that are attached to a sail, used to indicate airflow and sail trim.

Tender – small boat used to ferry people and supplies to and from shore. Also called dinghy .

Thwart – a crosswise seat in a boat.

Tidal range – the difference in water level between high tide and low tide in a particular area.

Tide – the periodic rise and fall of water level caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.

Tiller – a handle or lever used to steer a boat.

Toe rail – a narrow strip of wood, metal, or fiberglass molding along the edge of a sailboat’s deck near the hull, mainly used to secure a foothold for crew moving around the deck.

Tonnage – the total weight or volume of cargo that a vessel can carry, and usually expressed in either gross tonnage (GT) or net tonnage (NT).

Topmast – a mast situated above the lower mast on a ship.

Topsail – a sail set on the top of a ship’s mast.

Topside – the upper part of a boat’s hull.

Track – a device or structure that allows a sail or other object to move along a fixed path.

Trampoline – netting that is stretched between the hulls of a catamaran or trimaran, providing a stable and comfortable surface for passengers to relax on.

Transom – the flat, vertical surface at the stern of a boat.

Trapeze – wire and equipment used on a sailing boat to allow crew members to hang out outboard to counterbalance the force of the wind on the sails.

Traveler – device that allows the mainsail to be moved horizontally along the boat.

Trim – to adjust the sails or ballast to maintain a boat’s stability and speed.

Trimaran – a type of multihull boat consisting of a main hull and two smaller outrigger hulls called amas, attached to the main hull with lateral struts.

True north – the direction of the North Pole.

True wind – actual speed and direction of the wind experienced when there is no other movement or influence.

Tuning – process of adjusting the rigging and sails of a sailboat to optimize performance and balance in different wind and sea conditions.

Turnbuckle – device used for adjusting the tension or length of lines, cables, tie rods, and other tensioning systems.

Turning mark – buoy or other fixed object used in sailing or boat racing to mark a course change.

Turtling – when a boat capsizes, with the mast pointing down towards the sea bottom.

Underway – a boat that is in motion.

Unmoor – to release a boat from its moorings.

Uphaul – a line used to hoist a sail, flag, or spar up to the masthead.

Upwind – the direction that is facing or heading towards the wind. See beat.

V berth – bed in “V shape” typically found in the forward cabin of a boat. .

V bottom – also known as a V-hull, is a type of boat hull design that features a V-shaped hull that slices through the water.

Vang – see boom vang and kicking strap.

Veer – (1) change of wind direction clockwise. (2) To pay out or let out more line or chain, allowing a vessel to move farther away from its anchor point.

Vessel – a general term for any type of watercraft.

VHF – Very High Frequency.

Victuals – food or other provisions.

Vittles – see victuals.

VMG (Velocity Made Good) – speed at which a sailboat can make progress towards its destination while accounting for the effects of wind direction and currents.

Wake – the trail of disturbed water left behind by a moving ship.

Warship – a ship equipped for combat.

Watch – period of time during which one or more crew members are responsible for operating a vessel.

Waterline – the line where a boat’s hull meets the water.

Wavelength – distance between two consecutive points of the same phase on a radio wave.

Way – the forward movement of a boat through the water.

Waypoint – a predetermined location on a boat’s course.

Weather deck – the uppermost deck exposed to the elements on a ship.

Weather helm – the tendency of a boat to turn into the wind when the helm is released.

Wheel – a circular steering device used to steer a boat.

Whisker pole – also known as a spinnaker pole, is a horizontal spar used for jibing and holding out the clew of a jib or spinnaker.

Winch – mechanical device used to wind in or let out a cable or rope under tension.

Wind rose – a graphic tool used to visualize the distribution of wind directions and speeds at a particular location over a specific period of time.

Windage – the effect of wind on a boat or parts of it, that can cause it to drift or experience a lateral force.

Windlass – a mechanical device used on a boat to help with the raising and lowering of heavy equipment such as an anchor or sails.

Windward – the direction from which the wind is blowing. Opposite to Leeward.

Working end – the part of a line that is actively used to perform a task, such as tying a knot or securing a line to a cleat. Opposite to the standing part.

XTE (Cross Track Error) – perpendicular distance between a vessel’s actual position and its intended track.

Yacht – a pleasure boat used for cruising or racing.

Yard – a horizontal spar attached to a mast used to support a sail.

Yaw – movement or rotation of a vessel around its vertical axis that occurs when the boat is underway.

Yawl – a type of sailboat with two masts, with the smaller mizzen mast located aft the rudder post.

Zincs – type of sacrificial anodes used to protect boats and other underwater structures from corrosion.

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Steering A Sailboat In Reverse: Two Simple Tricks To Getting It Straight!

• Post author: boatLUV
• Post published: March 2, 2020
• Post category: Learn To Sail
• Post comments: 3 Comments

Mind Bending Backwards

It’s hard enough figuring out which way to move the tiller when steering the sailboat in forward motion, now you’re asked to get her out of the slip in reverse?! Left, right, port, starboard, which way is the bow going? Which way is the stern going to end up going? Do you ever feel like it’s a coin toss? You say to yourself, “I’ll just move the tiller and see, and if it’s going the wrong way, I’ll just do the opposite!”

This ad-hoc approach may not be appreciated by your fellow boaters especially in areas where “Mediterranean Mooring” is the preferred method of packing sailboats in a Marina like sardines in a can. image below from The Log

The first thing to remember is your rudder is useless at steering the boat if it does not have water flowing over it.  On my sailboat, I have an outboard engine, so water flows over the rudder immediately when in reverse because the prop is aft of the rudder.  But, with an inboard engine where the prop is forward of the rudder, water will only start flowing over the rudder once the boat is actually making way through the water.  In this configuration, with your engine in reverse, you and your tiller are going to be fighting each other like a married couple deciding what Netflix show to watch. It’s a tug-of war for control, so you gotta hang on and show the tiller who’s boss. 

Stern Becomes Bow - Bow Becomes Stern

Okay, let’s use getting out of your boat slip as a practice example to steering in reverse.

Trick number one :  Turn your body so your front body is facing the stern.

With a tiller, stand facing the stern. Now think of your stern as “the new front of the boat”.  If you have a wheel, then actually stand on the “wrong side” of the wheel. That may mean forward of the binnacle for you.

You want to drive / steer the “new front of the boat” in the direction you want. Forget about the bow! Except for checking to see if it is clear of the docks.

CENTER THE TILLER / WHEEL (rudder)!! We want to get water flowing over the rudder with the rudder at the boat’s centerline. If you don’t know if the rudder is center, go in reverse against your docklines to test it.

Note: With my outboard motor, I always test all reverse and forward gears while attached to the docklines just to make sure they work!

Detach all but one stern dock line. Which one you choose will depend on which direction you want to exit your slip and which one is most easily let go when the time comes. 

Put the engine in reverse (still facing the stern) and allow the boat to act against that one dock line briefly and even use that line to edge your “new bow / stern” to the side you want to eventually go. 

Tiller as Rifle

Trick Number 2:  Imagine your Tiller is a riffle and aim your rifle to the spot you want to go.

As you exit your slip nice and straight, and you are sure you have control of the tiller that may be fighting you, look down the barrel of the rifle/tiller and aim.

If you aim to the left (boat’s starboard side) the stern will go to the left (bow will swing to the boat’s port).

Point the rifle/tiller to the right (boat’s port side), the stern will go to the right (bow will swing to the starboard).

ONLY THINK OF THE “NEW BOW”! The stern. Where do you want IT to go? Point your rifle where you want to go.

Standing at the wheel on “the wrong side”, facing your stern, with your stern as the “new bow”, if you turn the wheel to the right, the stern/new bow will go to the right. If you turn the wheel to the left, the stern will go to the left.

Watch My Video Demo Below!

On a calm day, solo, I demo how I get my Coronado 25 out of her slip. She has an outboard and tiller. Hope you find this useful!

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This post has 3 comments.

An excellent, simple yet thorough explanation! Somehow you were able to communicate the process without condescending overtones, also much appreciated since most of the”how to boating info” I find online is lots of old salty man-splaning

When going astern do you lock your outboard motor in the center position or leave it to rotate?Thanks.Kev Williams.

I do not lock it in place especially if I am in tight quarters. I use the tiller and motor in parallel to really make a quick and tight turn if necessary.

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Sailboat Living: 10 Things To Know Before Moving On Board

Sailboat living can sound like the dream life, and in many ways it is.

Beautiful sunsets, the freedom to travel with your home, dolphins and crystal clear seas are all a huge part of the sailboat lifestyle , but anyone who tells you it’s an easy life has obviously never really lived on a sailboat!

There are times when sailboat living can feel more like a nightmare than a dream, and no matter how much you prepare there will always be a few troublesome scenarios that you just can’t predict.

However, with a little forethought and a lot of planning, there is a lot you can do to make the transition of moving from a house to a sailboat a relatively easy one.

If you’re prepared to put in the hard work now then we promise you will reap the rewards in the future. As we learnt the hard way, we’ve put together the top 10 things that everyone should know before they move onto a sailboat so that sailboat living for you can be 98% dream and only 2% nightmare!

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#1 A Sailboat Is Never Complete

Learn this lesson fast!

Don’t expect to finish boatyard work and stop working. A sailboat breaks. Constantly. Some days it will feel as though your to-do list is endless because unfortunately, it is.

This was one of the things Adam and I were prepared for before we moved onboard our sailboat. After living on a boat in the UK we understood the crazy amount of work that has to go into maintaining something that’s constantly working.

I think a good way of looking at it would be to think of it as a house and a car combined. It has all the working parts of a house – the pipework, the electricity, the leaky windows etc.

It also has all the working parts of a car like an engine, the tires could be the sails, the lines, and all that goes along with them.

Add to that the fact that you’re putting it under huge amounts of stress at all times, in some extreme weather conditions, and you can see why things constantly fail!

Adam and I spent the first few months of living aboard feeling as though we were just sailing from anchorage to anchorage to find chandlers so we could fix things. We made friends with some full-time cruisers who quickly put a stop to that!

They explained how if we actually wanted to enjoy time on board then we had to give ourselves time off the boat work. The broken things we could live with could wait a few days while we enjoyed a new destination.

Find out how much new sails cost

We now try to only do one or two days of boat work a week, which leaves us with a weekend ‘off’ when we’re working our jobs for three days. This suits us perfectly, but you’ll need to find a pattern that works for you to make sailboat living more enjoyable!

A bonus of living onboard is that you do have the extra time to dedicate to keeping the sailboat in tip-top condition.

Many weekend sailors find themselves with a long list of jobs at the end of the season, but (depending on how cheap/how lucky you get when you buy your boat!) if you get some jobs done every now and again through the season you’ll keep the long stints to a minimum.

#2 Sailboat Living = Tiny Space Living

Think of sailboat living as living in a glorified tent and you’ll be (partly) prepared! There is nothing glamorous about sailboat living!

You’ll be getting changed in tiny spaces where you may or may not be able to stand. You’ll be squeezing into the toilet or squeezing past people to use the kettle. It’s a juggling act, even when all your belongings are stashed away neatly.

Add to that the fact you’ll probably be ripping open cupboards every other day to find that essential item that was placed under all the other essential items and it becomes pretty hard to manage!

Our top tips for managing space onboard your sailboat are to downsize before you move in and to prioritise sailboat storage. It might be a hard thing to do to start with, but you’ll be so thankful you gave up all nonessential items before you even moved aboard.

It’s amazing how quickly you can fill a boat when you live on it! We have loads of handy tips on how to maximise limited space in our post on sailboat storage ideas – check it out before you start sailboat living!

#3 Water, Water, Everywhere But Not A Drop To Wash In

Get used to living frugally. We don’t necessarily mean your finances (though it is possible to live on a budget on a sailboat, check out what we spend monthly here).

Things like water and electricity are limited on a sailboat, especially if you’re spending the majority of your time at anchor.

Unless you have a sailboat watermaker (which we highly recommend splashing out on!) you need to get used to using as little water as possible . It’s not always easy to find when you live on the sea.

Get used to taking sea showers and washing dishes in saltwater. You can always rinse in freshwater, and washing in the sea really isn’t too hard once you’re used to it!

Set your sailboat up with a good way of making electricity as soon as you move aboard. You’ll want decent amounts of solar power and possibly a wind generator too, especially if you’re planning on spending time in countries that don’t see very much sunshine or spending winters at anchor.

You’ll also want to make sure you have a good battery bank for storing it over night, and you may even want to consider getting a small generator if you rely on power for things like charging laptops to work from.

#4 The People You Meet Will Be A True Highlight

The sailing community is what makes sailboat living. They are the most giving and generous community of people we have ever met and the best memories we have are the ones we spent with other cruisers.

It’s not always easy to meet other sailors while you’re living at anchor, so our advice is to make the effort and say hi where ever possible. People are always happy to share a drink or dinner, and a salty tale or two!

Meeting other sailors is also the very best way to learn more about sailing life. No matter how long people have cruised for they always have an experience worth sharing and learning from.

#5 The Weather Controls Your Life In Sailboat Living

We check the weather twice a day, every day. It may seem obvious that the weather is important on a sailboat, but until we moved aboard we didn’t realise quite how much it would affect our lives.

You might be desperate to move the boat and explore somewhere new but find you have no wind to sail. Or you might fall in love with an anchorage and want to stay but be forced to move because of a change in the direction of the wind.

We’ve had to leave beautiful anchorages in the middle of the night because an unpredicted storm had blown through, or been stuck in places we don’t like because the wind has meant it’s the only safe place to be.

The positives of being governed by the weather is that you’re so much more in tune with it. You get up when the sun rises, you notice subtle changes in the temperature and you learn to read the wind and clouds.

Before you move on board you should start checking the weather and anchorages around where you plan on sailing. It makes life easier if you’ve scouted out the best places to be in different weather conditions.

Check things like whether there are safe anchorages for different wind directions or whether you’ll need to use marinas (and how much they’ll be!), and check if there are any ‘bolt holes’ you can use as safe havens in the event of unexpected storms.

You’ll feel more confident and comfortable if you have all this information to hand when you start sailboat living.

#6 Sailboat Living Means Leaving Your Privacy On The Dockside

You’ll be sharing a tiny space with your crew and they will quickly learn literally everything there is to learn about you. And you them.

Before you move onto a sailboat make sure that you’re happy with sharing everything with the people you’re sailing with. I don’t mean you have to tell them about your childhood (though night passages can be pretty dull!) but be prepared to share what you eat, when you toilet, potentially what you throw up.

Expect to be walked in on while you’re changing or showering. Understand that boat toilets break – a lot – so no matter how careful you are you might well end up elbow deep in someone else’s last nights dinner!

#7 Learn To Work As A Team – Quickly

Sailboat living requires a huge amount of team work (unless you’re planning on living alone of course). You need get into a very different mindset when you live and work with the same person or people day in, day out, and when you depend on them (quite literally) to survive.

One of the biggest reasons that people quit at sailboat living is because they fall out with their partners, or call it a day before they do. Sailboat living is hard on relationships, but it can also make your relationship better and stronger if you’re prepared to work at it.

There are lots of things you can do to prepare for this change and I’ve put together a whole range of tips to help you with spending too much time with your partner .

Ultimately, one of the best things you can do is know that this isn’t going to be easy, no matter how strong your relationship is on land. Be prepared for this as a couple, and be prepared to work hard on your relationship when the tough patches come!

#8 Nature Is Incredible

I know, I know, we all know nature is incredible. But sailboat living brings you so much closer to it in so many different ways.

You see things you’d never get a chance to see on land. Every time you jump in the sea you find new sea creatures, either from snorkeling or finding them clinging on to your hull, or washed up on deck.

You see turtles, whales and rays. Birds come to find rest on your boat while you’re on long passages and dolphins swim beside you as you make waves for them to play in.

Then there’s the sunrises and sunsets, and the endless starlit skies. The thunderstorms that you’re suddenly a part of, when before you could hide inside brick walls. The constantly changing sea and sky, and the sun and wind. You become part of it, and you depend on it, and you’re terrified of it.

Sailboat living makes you feel like you’re part of the nature around you rather than just a lucky spectator. It’s certainly changed the way I see the ocean and the weather for the better and I have a new found respect and healthy fear of it’s power and awe.

#9 Prepare For Sleepless Nights

Before we set off cruising full time I had no idea how little sleep I would get. There are so many different things trying their hardest to ruin a good nights sleep on a sailboat.

Firstly, the weather. If it’s windy, you’ll be half awake all night just watching the anchor and wondering if this will be the night it pulls out and you drag into some rocks.

You’ll be waiting for the wind to shift slightly so that you’re no longer protected from the sea. And even if you’re super happy with your anchoring set up, the wind through the halyards makes a very disconcerting noise!

If the weather is calm that doesn’t mean the sea will be. You can never predict whether the anchorage you arrive in will be the rollyest place on the island, so you’ll spend a good few nights just rolling around all over the place trying your hardest to stay in your berth.

Then there’s the heat (or the cold, depending on where you sail). It can be unbearably hot inside a sailboat, so consider buying a decent hammock and sleep under the stars instead.

But if you decide to sleep outside you’re going to want a mosquito net, because those things are FIERCE. Never have I ever experienced so many sleepless nights due to a buzzing in my ears and painful bites all over my legs.

If you can find a comfortable set up with your hammock and mozzie net then sleeping outside on a sailboat is one of the most magical things ever. The stars are brighter than you could ever imagine, and there are shooting stars a plenty. The stillness of a calm night at anchor is one of the very best things about sailboat living.

If you’re sailing with a baby you can expect even less sleep – make sure you’re prepared for that!

#10 Sailboat Living Is More Difficult Than You Could Imagine (But Totally Worth It)

Difficult sounds bad, but that would be inaccurate when describing sailboat living. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done and the best. And part of what makes it the best is that it’s the hardest. Does that make sense?!

Sailboat living can feel like a constant battle at times. You have to trek for an hour to find the gas to light your oven to make a cup of tea in the morning. You then have to go back again because you forgot the tea bags. Things break and need fixing. You can’t sleep because of a storm. You can’t leave the boat for days because the winds up and you’re scared the anchor might pull out.

I think people run away to sea to find freedom, but like everything freedom can be defined in so many different ways.

Sailboat living takes away your freedom of easy access to food and water. It takes away your freedom to step out of your front door into relative safety. At times it even takes away your freedom to run and walk.

What it does give you is freedom from monotony. Freedom from daily routine. It gives you the freedom to travel where you want (if not when you want) and the freedom from material possessions.

It doesn’t matter what you wear on a boat, it doesn’t matter how flashy your boat is or how much you smell! At the end of the day, out on the sea, it’s just you surviving. And in a way, that’s the most free I’ve ever felt.

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15 comments.

I’ll be moving on a sailboat with my girlfriend this (still very new) year and I discovered your blog via Pinterest. We’re also writing weekly blog posts about our journey. Your writing is excellent, and I’d like to follow you on your mailing list. But it seems your form does not work. Fix it maybe? 🙂

Ah that’s strange! I can see people are still signing up, will have a look into that! Thanks for letting me know. Thanks so much for reading along. Where’s your boat? I’m so excited for you – those first few weeks aboard are the best!

I can’t seem to sign up for more. The web page has an error on my Android. Bummer.

Can you please add my email address to your email distribution list?

Thanks, Steve

So glad to come across you guys, finding out as much as we can before we take that leap. We are a couple coming to the end of a army career. The last 2 years will be in Kenya Nanyuki. Posted in June. Then we plan to get the dream sailing boat and travel. I am doing all my home work trying to find out as much as I can before we do this. Looking forward to reading about you both and tasking in everything any thing that we will I’m sure be incredible useful. Thank you Sandy

Sorry for the late reply, I’ve only just noticed your lovely comment. I hope you’re getting further along with your dream – would love to hear about it! If you need more help we’ve put together a huge guidebook detailing everything we’ve learnt, from the very beginning of the journey through to buying the boat and eventually living aboard and making it all work. https://twogetlost.com/guidebook

That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for reading!

Thanks for the honest truth in this article. Doing all the research possible before following our dreams and in your footsteps 🙌💕⛵⚓

Thanks so much for your kind comment and really pleased we could help! Keep us updated on your journey, you won’t look back!

Wow! I am on a boat reading this while my partner is away for the first time in months, and it made me feel less insane and like there are tools to help us live our dream of minimalist sailboat life.. Thank you so much for your wise words and good tools..

I’m so pleased it helped and excited for you starting this journey! You won’t regret it, and we’d love to hear more when you find the perfect boat and move aboard! If you need more help we’ve put together a huge guidebook detailing everything we’ve learnt, from the very beginning of the journey through to buying the boat and eventually living aboard and making it all work. https://twogetlost.com/guidebook

• Pingback: How To Downsize Your Wardrobe For Boatlife | Two Get Lost

Any suggested reading on preparing your land life (home, insurance, anythin really) for departure. Sell the home or rwnt, thinks like that. Want to start preparjng a year ahead and struggling to make a plan..any blogs ir reading suggestions would be appreciated!

Hello, thanks for reaching out. First off – congratulations! You’re obviously set on your plan to move aboard and it will be amazing (and lots of other things too!!) We actually cover all this in part one of our guidebook. We go through everything we had to consider before moving aboard, things like whether to sell or not to sell, what to do with all your things, even little considerations like what to tell family and friends. We’ve included tick lists for planning the change in lifestyle. You can find it here. https://twogetlost.com/guidebook Part 2 is for after you’ve bought the boat – getting the boat ready for living aboard and all the other things that come along with living at sea. I hope it helps and please do let us know how you get on – perhaps we’ll see you out here soon!

It’s helpful to understand that when living in a sailboat, the weather controls every aspect of our lives. Not long ago, my wife and I decided to invest in a sailboat because we love the sea and nature. We’d like to buy one this year, and maybe in the future, we’ll need to read carefully your advice about living in a vessel.

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Why so speedy? How sailboats can travel faster than wind

Why so speedy?

Sailboats have been the go-to way of getting around for many people for thousands of years. The craft are pretty simple, with a hull offering space for the captain, their passengers or cargo, and a sail at the center catching the wind’s power and moving you forward. But have you ever wondered why sailboats aren’t limited to travelling at the same speed as the wind wherever they go?

According to Instagram user Steve Mould, the brains behind the Stevemouldscience page , there’s a very simple explanation for how sailboats can go at almost any speed they want regardless of the wind.

To explain why this is, Mould starts with a model of a boat that has its sail at 45 degrees and pushes it side on. At this angle, the model boat moves as far forward as the simulated wind does when passing over the sail - meaning that both the wind and the ship are moving at the same speed.

Mould explains that this happens because the packet of wind, as he puts it, moves across the sail at the same speed as the other packets of wind around it so as not to cause any areas of low pressure. As it moves over the sail, it pushes the boat forward so it doesn’t cause any resistance to the flow of the wind. If the boat didn’t move, it would provide too much resistance to the wind, which would push it to speed up.

When the sail is pulled in much tighter to the boat, its angle to the wind is more acute and that makes the ship travel faster. This is for the same reason, except now as the packet of air moves forward, the length of the sail that the boat will move forward by is much longer in comparison.

Mould then hypothesizes that surely this means you could pull the sail in even sharper and go even faster. However, he explained that there’s an optimum angle at which the sail should be positioned. If it’s too sharp, the drag of the ship would be too much and the boat risks restricting the wind and capsizing.

It’s a nifty little explainer that gets to the bottom of one of the fundamentals of early transport, so I urge you to head to Mould’s page and give it a watch. While you’re there, check out some of his other videos on hammerhead sharks and sound waves.

A version of this article originally appeared on Jalopnik.

For the latest news, Facebook , Twitter and Instagram .

StarTribune

Sailboat was built to travel the world. instead, it has commanded the st. croix river since 1951..

There's no other boat quite like the Dar-Ja sailing the St. Croix River, gliding along the shoreline, its twin masts outfitted with white triangles of sail billowing across the bow like a New England schooner.

The sailboat that Jack Lown built in a back yard in Iowa was supposed to take him on an around-the-world voyage with three friends. That was before World War II broke out, and two of Lown's buddies died fighting overseas. What happened next became Lown's true sailing adventure, one that never left the Midwest, touched salt water or charted a course across an ocean.

Sailing into its eighth decade, the wooden sailboat first launched in 1951 has become an iconic St. Croix River vessel, still piloted by the same family that grew up on it and still drawing attention from sailors and non-boaters alike.

"I remember Mom and Dad dancing on the deck," said Mary Ann Bergquist, one of the daughters of Jack and Darlene Lown. Her parents floated up the Mississippi River from Waterloo, Iowa, a few years after they married in 1948, back when the boat named for them had a motor but no masts or sails.

The Lowns had seven children, danced twice a week at Twin Cities-area ballrooms and spent the sailing season aboard Dar-Ja when Jack took a long break each summer from teaching high school industrial arts.

The boat that was to conquer the globe instead found a home in Stillwater for several years and then, after Lown got tired of waiting for the Stillwater Lift Bridge to open, Hudson, Wis., in 1954. Over more than 70 years, the boat has been launched countless times to sail north to Stillwater or as far south as Lake Pepin.

Jack died in 1987 and Darlene in 2012. Today their surviving children sail Dar-Ja, especially their son John Lown, who said he takes it out three to four times a week. The boat has sailed so many times, and with so many people, that John said it's not uncommon for him to be at a store somewhere and have someone approach him with their Dar-Ja story.

John said he was sailing one day when a Zodiac zipped up behind him. It was Stan Hubbard, the owner of KSTP, delivering pictures he had of Dar-Ja under sail.

Childhood dream

A young Jack Lown first imagined sailing around the world after reading "Around the World Single-Handed" by Harry Pidgeon. An uncle and his father had built dozens of boats, and by the time Jack Lown was 15, he had built his own motorized riverboat. It wasn't until his early 20s as he studied to become a teacher that he began work on the boat that would become the Dar-Ja.

He first had his plans checked by a naval architect in Chicago, then built a 4-foot model. The full-size version, of oak and spruce and fir, is 12 feet across and weighs some 28,000 pounds when fully loaded with fuel and water. Its middle deck section above the cabin makes a good dance floor.

After the boat was built, Lown got a permit to haul it the 90 miles to Dubuque, Iowa, and the Mississippi River, first launching it in 1951.

Jack Lown never officially chartered the boat as a business, but friends soon learned that he would go out most weekends with a full crew. Lown told a newspaper in the 1970s that he was taking some 2,000 people a year out on the St. Croix River. His family took several trips each summer to Lake Pepin; the boat can sleep 12 people and has a full kitchen and bathroom.

Son John said growing up with the Dar-Ja meant sailboat construction was ongoing. The wooden ship has seen its hull replaced and its main mast and engine. A second mast built in 1978 was partly completed at the former Frank B. Kellogg High School in Little Canada, where Jack was teaching industrial arts.

It was finished at the family home in northeast Minneapolis, then delivered by car and specialized trailer to the St. Croix River. To install the new mast, Jack's son Curtis Lown stood on the Interstate 94 bridge with a block and tackle to raise the mast up from the deck of the Dar-Ja, which was floating below.

"Can you imagine that now?" Curtis said.

The boat has had close calls — Curtis remembers a time when he took it out for his birthday and the Dar-Ja was hit with a massive straight-line wind. The boat leaned over, the cockpit filled with water, and someone called the sheriff for help.

"It was just a freak deal," said Curtis.

On a night in 1958, a motorboat driver slammed into the ship's prow at full speed, killing the driver, a 58-year-old man from St. Paul.

River sailing

Sailing on the river means the Lowns know the bridges over the St. Croix and whether the Dar-Ja and its 56-foot-tall mast can pass underneath.

Even sailing under the Interstate 94 bridge can feel like sailboat limbo with river levels at moderate flood stage this past week.

The I-94 bridge is fixed, but others have a bridge operator to lift or swing open a section.

It was at the Prescott, Wis., bridge that Mary Ann used to jump off the boat as a child and run up to the bridge operator's house. "I knew where the bridge man lived," she said, "and I would run up to his house and say, 'You have to open the bridge!'"

Matt McKinney is a reporter on the Star Tribune's state team. In 15 years at the Star Tribune, he has covered business, agriculture and crime. 

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Olympic Sailing 2024: Where to Watch, Full Schedule

The Americans are battening down the hatches as they try to reclaim Olympic gold for the first time since 2008 in Beijing. 

It’s all hands on deck as the U.S. Olympic sailing team heads to Paris for the 2024 Olympics. The Americans qualified a boat for nine of the 10 sailing events, and 13 sailors will be participating. The sailors will be hungry for medals after coming home without the gold for 16 years now. The U.S. also sailed home completely empty-handed at the London 2012 Olympics, as well as the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. But, historically, the U.S. is one of the most-winning nations in sailing (trailing only behind Great Britain), with 61 medals (19 gold, 23 silver and 19 bronze), according to Sail World , and this 2024 U.S. Olympic Sailing team hopes the winds are right to bring the gold back to America.

Key sailing athletes to watch

Thirteen American sailors will be in the waters of the Mediterranean in Marseille, the oldest city in France, for this Olympic games.

The team includes five-time Olympian Stu McNay and two-time Olympian Lara Dallman-Weiss, who have the most Olympic experience for the Americans. All eyes will be on the pair as they compete in the new mixed-gender category at this Olympics, mixed 470 (mixed two-person dinghy). Both have been very successful individually, and have podium finishes at the national, World Cup and Continental levels, according to U.S. Sailing .

RELATED: Where To Watch 2024 Paris Olympics: Complete Schedule

McNay is taking his status as elder statesman to heart. He’s among only 0.42% of Olympians in modern history who have competed in five or more Games, according to the Associated Press . He’ll turn 43 during the Olympics.

“As an older person, you can bring grit and determination,” McNay told the AP after the team trials.

Another team will make their second consecutive Olympic games together: Stephanie Roble and Maggie Shea. They’ll sail in the 49erFX (women’s skiff), and have been competing in 49erFX together since the fall of 2016. They’ve medaled at the 2023 and 2019 Pan American Games, among others.

The pair are both from Chicago and are feeling the love from those in the Windy City.

“The Chicago community has rallied around us for years,” Shea said to Sail World . “Campaigning for the Olympics is extremely demanding, but having a group of wonderful people behind us helps us remember why we do it.”

How to watch U.S. sailing at the Paris Olympics

Every day during the  Summer Olympics , NBC will offer fans at least nine hours of daytime coverage of the Games’ most exciting events, including live finals coverage of swimming, gymnastics, track and field, and more. Considering the time difference (Paris is six hours ahead of the U.S.’s eastern time zone), fans will be able to watch the day’s most popular events live on NBC in the morning and afternoon. NBC will also deliver an  enhanced Olympics primetime show  each night, providing three hours of must-see entertainment.

  In addition, every event from  the Summer Olympics will be broadcast live on Peacock , which will be home to an innovative Olympics hub that will include "curated rails of live and upcoming events, dedicated in-depth hubs for nearly 40 sports, medal standings and an interactive schedule."

Complete schedule for Olympic sailing events

Sunday, July 28 6:00 a.m. ET: Windsurfing, Skiff (Day 1)

Monday, July 29 6:00 a.m. ET: Windsurfing, Skiff (Day 2)

Tuesday, July 30 6:00 a.m. ET: Windsurfing Skiff (Day 3)

Wednesday, July 31 6:00 a.m. ET: Windsurfing, Skiff Day 4

Thursday, August 1 6:00 a.m. ET: Skiff Medal Races & more

Friday, August 2 6:00 a.m. ET: Windsurfing Medal Series & more

Saturday, August 3 6:00 a.m. ET: Dinghy, Mixed Multihull Opening Series

Sunday, August 4 6:00 a.m. ET: Dinghy, Mixed Multihull, Kite Opening Series

Monday, August 5 6:00 a.m. ET: Dinghy, Mixed Multihull, Kite Opening Series

Tuesday, August 6 6:00 a.m. ET: Men's & Women's Dinghy Medal Races, Kite & more

Wednesday, August 7 6:00 a.m. ET: Mixed Dinghy, Mixed Multihull Medal Races, & more

Thursday, August 8 6:00 a.m. ET: Men’s & Women’s Kite Medal Series

Watch live coverage of the  Opening Ceremony  on Friday, July 26, on NBC and Peacock beginning at 12 p.m. ET. Telemundo will provide Spanish-language coverage beginning at 1 p.m. ET. Primetime coverage starts at 7:30 p.m. ET/PT on NBC and  Peacock .

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Rebuilding Paradise: The Bitter End Yacht Club’s Inspiring Comeback

By: Shannon Sinnard Destinations

Nestled at the northeastern tip of Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, the Bitter End Yacht Club has long been a premier maritime destination for sailors. For years, this iconic resort has drawn seafarers from around the globe, offering a serene escape amidst the sparkling waters of the Caribbean.

While the term “bitter end” often refers to the final part of a rope or chain, the phrase can also signify reaching the farthest point or the end destination of a long or difficult journey. The founders of the Bitter End Yacht Club chose this name to reflect both its geographical location and the spirit of adventure and perseverance inherent to sailors. For those who navigate to this end-of-the-line point, the BEYC stands as a haven where their journey culminates in beauty and tranquility. And, for many, it has long stood as a cherished traditional stop when exploring the waters of the BVI.

A Legendary Past, a Devastating Blow

In more recent years, the Bitter End’s name has embodied not only a physical destination but also a symbolic one. The iconic BEYC experienced a devastating blow in September 2017 when Hurricane Irma, one of the most powerful Atlantic hurricanes in history, wreaked havoc on the Caribbean, leaving the Bitter End Yacht Club in ruins. The devastation was profound, with buildings flattened, boats destroyed, and the once-thriving resort reduced to rubble.

While many Bitter End enthusiasts were devastated to hear of the destruction Hurricane Irma left in her wake, the iconic Bitter End Yacht Club kept its loyal fans updated via its website , detailing both the damage and community efforts to rebuild this beloved BVI institution.

Rising from the Ashes

Having now been rebuilt and risen from the devastation of Hurricane Irma, the Bitter End’s name resonates even more with the idea of enduring and overcoming challenges – much like the sailors who venture to the farthest reaches to get there.

After the storm, the Bitter End Yacht Club faced a long and arduous journey to recovery. But the spirit of resilience and determination among its community never wavered. Fast forward to today, and the Bitter End Yacht Club has not only been rebuilt but has been reimagined, standing as a testament to the power of recovery and the adventurous spirit that made it famous.

A New Era for the Bitter End Yacht Club

The reopening of the Bitter End Yacht Club marks a new chapter in its storied history. The rebuilt resort seamlessly blends the charm and character of its past with modern amenities and environmentally friendly practices. Here’s a glimpse of what visitors can now expect:

State-of-the-Art Marina

The heart of the Bitter End experience, the marina, has been meticulously restored and upgraded, offering deep-water slips that can accommodate yachts up to 200 feet, along with enhanced dockside services. Sailors can enjoy top-notch amenities including electrical hook-ups, fuel, ice, showers, rubbish disposal, and laundry facilities. Additionally, guests have access to the resort’s swimming pool. The BEYC also boasts one of the best deep-water anchorages in the Caribbean, providing many of the same amenities as the docking facilities.

Culinary Delights

Dining at the Bitter End is an experience in itself. The resort’s restaurants feature locally sourced ingredients, celebrating Caribbean flavors with a gourmet twist. Whether it’s a casual beachside meal or an elegant dinner under the stars, the culinary offerings are sure to delight every palate.

Adventure and Exploration

For those with a thirst for adventure, the resort offers a wide range of water sports, including sailing, kiteboarding, windsurfing, and snorkeling. Guests can explore the vibrant coral reefs, embark on a deep-sea fishing expedition, or simply enjoy a leisurely paddle around the bay.

Environmental Stewardship

The Bitter End Yacht Club has embraced sustainability as a core principle in its rebuilding efforts. The resort utilizes renewable energy sources, practices water conservation, and is committed to preserving the natural beauty of the BVI. Initiatives such as coral reef restoration and marine conservation programs are integral to its operations, ensuring that the Bitter End remains a pristine paradise for future generations.

A Bright Future

From its storied past to its recent resurgence, the Bitter End Yacht Club is more than just a return to business; it’s a celebration of resilience, community, and the indomitable spirit of the BVI. As it welcomes back old friends and new, the Bitter End promises to once again be the ultimate retreat for those who seek the thrill of the open sea and the tranquility of an island paradise in one of the most breathtaking locations on earth. 

BRINGING BACK THE BITTER END

AN INSIDE SAILING EDITION WEBINAR • HOSTED BY PETER ISLER

Join Richard and Lauren Hokin as they reminisce about the Bitter End Yacht Club’s past and discuss its exciting reopening as “Bitter End 2.0” after Hurricane Irma.

THE VIRGIN ISLANDS A CRUISING GUIDE

The Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands is filled with detailed charts of the various anchorages, supported with colorful aerial photography in addition to piloting, anchoring and shoreside information. The Island Connections sections provide valuable telephone, email and website information to make finding island businesses, services and restaurants effortless. Additionally, the guide includes a free, fold-out color 27” x 17” planning chart covering the British and U.S. Virgin Islands. 

THE VIRGIN ISLANDS WATERPROOF CHART

Printed on two sides this new chart includes the U.S. & B.V.I. from St. Thomas to Anegada, including anchorage and mooring locations as well as GPS coordinates, sailing routes and distances between waypoints. Excellent for the cockpit and attractive enough to hang on the wall when you get home.

This planning chart is a duplicate of the one you receive in the guide with the exception of being waterproof.

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What happened to chase lemacks after below deck sailing yacht season 4.

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20 Best Reality TV Shows Right Now

Sister wives: signs robyn brown's a gold digger (is she taking kody for a ride), 90 day fiancé: michael ilesanmi has new family in the u.s. (how he's living the american dream since angela split).

• Chase Lemacks sailed on Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4 and started a YouTube series, Chasing Grace, showcasing his maritime travels.
• Chase has forged friendships with other Bravo stars, such as TJ Dinch from Southern Hospitality.
• Chase could be a potential replacement for Gary as first mate in future Below Deck Sailing Yacht seasons, given his performance and lack of drama during his time on the show.

Chase Lemacks hasn’t stopped sailing on yachts since Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4. The Below Deck spin-off premiered in 2020, spotlighting the crews on sailing yachts as they navigate the highs and lows of the charter season . Captain Glenn Shephard leads Below Deck Sailing Yacht , and the rest of the cast frequently rotates. Daisy Kelliher has remained on the show since its first season while the rest of the crew has shifted.

Chase joined Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4 as a newcomer, working as a deckhand under Gary King. The two exterior team members didn’t necessarily see eye to eye and did not form a close friendship. One of the main storylines of the season stemmed from Daisy, Gary, and Colin Macrae’s season-long love triangle . However, the season was later tainted when accusations of sexual misconduct about Gary were revealed. It’s unclear where the fate of the show will lead and if Chase will return as a deckhand in the Below Deck franchise.

Reality TV is more popular than ever. With so many to choose from, here are some of the best reality TV shows to stream or watch right now.

Chase Has A YouTube Series

Chase vlogs his sailing adventures.

Since Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4, Chase has started a YouTube series entitled Chasing Grace . In his YouTube channel bio, the deckhand revealed it was his dream to sail the world. “ After countless hours of hard work and loads of sacrifices, I'm finally ready to purchase my boat, Grace ,” wrote Chase. On the channel, he posts vlogs sailing to different destinations . Chase has a true passion for maritime travel, and he’s proved that with his Chasing Grace YouTube series that gives fans a better look into his life outside of Below Deck .

Chase Has Hung Out With Fellow Bravo Stars

Chase is friends with this southern hospitality star.

Even though Chase isn’t on a Bravo series at the moment, he’s forged friendships with fellow network stars . On his Instagram, Chase posed with TJ Dinch from Southern Hospitality , whom he seemingly hosted aboard his boat. The deckhand thanked him for being “ an amazing guest ” and added he was “ stoked ” about their friendship. It may seem out of the blue for Chase and TJ to be friends, but their meetup isn’t that out of the ordinary. Southern Hospitality is based out of Charleston, South Carolina, the same state where the Below Deck Sailing Yacht deckhand is from.

Chase's Journey On Below Deck

Chase didn’t get along with gary.

Chase had an interesting journey on Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4. He hadn’t appeared on the show before and joined as one of Gary’s deckhands. Early in the season, Chase expressed an interest in stew Mads Herrera . Gary disregarded his deckhand’s intrigue and started hooking up with the stew himself, causing tension among the deck team . Instead of mending their conflict, they acted passive-aggressively towards each other. Chase called out Gary’s lack of leadership, citing that he gave “ no instruction ” and he and Alex Propson were “ expected to know everything ” on Watch What Happens Live with Andy Cohen .

Will Chase Ever Return To Below Deck Sailing Yacht?

Chase should replace gary.

Chase should return to Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 5 . The fate of the show is up in the air after allegations of sexual misconduct were made against Gary. However, there’s no reason that Chase shouldn’t be invited back to work as a deckhand again. Despite a lack of guidance, he did well in his role and worked well under pressure. Chase didn’t get involved in much drama during the season, positioning him as a viable candidate to return to Below Deck Sailing Yacht in the future. If not, he could make the switch to another Below Deck franchise.

Chase could be a potential replacement for Gary as first mate in a future season of Below Deck Sailing Yacht . Season 5 had begun filming with the first mate when the accusations of sexual misconduct were made public. It would be shocking if the network decided to bring Gary back for another stint on the show after Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 5, as it’s uncertain if that footage will even air. Chase would be an adequate, unproblematic replacement for Gary in the future.

Since Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4, Chase has started sailing the world. He clashed with first mate Gary on the show but didn’t get too heavily involved in any drama. Chase deserves to return for a future season of Below Deck Sailing Yacht .

Below Deck Sailing Yacht seasons 1-4 are available to stream on Peacock.

Sources: Chase Lemacks /YouTube, Chase Lemacks /Instagram, Watch What Happens Live with Andy Cohen

Below Deck Sailing Yacht

*Availability in US

Not available

Below Deck Sailing Yacht is a spin-off of the Below Deck reality television series. Premiering on Bravo, the show follows the life of a Yacht crew as they attempt to navigate a busy Charter season in which many customers make use of a 177-foot sailing yacht. Over the first three seasons, the yacht has been to Greece, Croatia, and Spain.