balboa 16 sailboat

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Balboa 16 is a 16 ′ 0 ″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by W. Shad Turner and built by Coastal Recreation Inc. starting in 1980.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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About the balboa 16  .

The Balboa 16 is a small recreational keelboat intended for beginner sailors. It is built predominantly of fiberglass, with wood trim. It has a masthead sloop rig with anodized aluminum spars and a transom-sheeted mainsheet. The hull features a raked stem, a plumb transom, a transom-hung rudder controlled by a tiller, a self-bailing cockpit and a fixed, shallow-draft fin keel. It displaces 1,000 lb (454 kg) and carries 400 lb (181 kg) of ballast. The boat has a draft of 2.42 ft (0.74 m) with the standard keel fitted. It is normally fitted with a small outboard motor of up to 6 hp (4 kW) for docking and maneuvering. The design has sleeping accommodation for four people, with a double "V"-berth in the bow cabin, plus two quarter berths. To facilitate ground transportation on a trailer the design has a hinged mast step. Factory standard equipment included an ice box, cabin carpeting and a plexiglass sliding hatch. It is normally raced with a crew of two sailors.

United States

numberBuilt

1,000 lb (454 kg)

2.42 ft (0.74 m)

W. Shad Turner

Coastal Recreation, Inc

16.00 ft (4.88 m)

14.67 ft (4.47 m)

7.50 ft (2.29 m)

Outboard motor

400 lb (181 kg)

transom-mounted rudder

Rig / Sails

Bermuda rig

52.00 sq ft (4.831 m2)

65.00 sq ft (6.039 m2)

117.00 sq ft (10.870 m2)

20.00 ft (6.10 m)

6.50 ft (1.98 m)

6.60 ft (2.01 m)

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Review of Balboa 16

Basic specs..

The Balboa 16 is equipped with a fin keel. A boat with a fin keel is more manoeuvrable but has less directional stability than a similar boat with a long keel.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 0.74 - 0.84 meter (2.43 - 2.73 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Balboa 16 is 2.97, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.1 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Balboa 16 is about 67 kg/cm, alternatively 379 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 67 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 379 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 10m 2 (107 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Balboa 16 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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BALBOA 16 built by Coastal Recreation (USA) and designed by W. Shad Turner. Her first hull was built in 1981 with an overall lengh of 4.88 m or 16.00 ft long

BALBOA 16 Sailboat Specifications​

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This is the height at the centerline of the cabin, which we measure under the cabin-top amidships, usually located just forward of the companionway hatch. If headroom is less than 5' 0", it is sometimes given in brochures or ads as "sitting," whether it is 4' 11" or

3' 6". However, what counts as "sitting" for one observer may be "standing" for another. For example, designer Bob Perry, who is over six-feet tall, asserts that any headroom less than six feet is "sitting." But to the average person (men = 5' 9", women = 5' 4"), anything 5' 10" or more would be "standing." We attempt to ascertain headroom whenever we can, even if approximate, by measuring from plans or by quoting specifications in sales brochures.

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Sixty-Three Boats 14'-19'

Alacrity 19 (18) 19

Alerion Express Cat 19 20

Balboa 16* 68*

Baymaster 18* 68*

Blue Water Blackwatch 19 21

Cape Cod Cat 17 22

Cape Cod Goldeneye 18* 69*

Cape Dory Typhoon 18 (19) 23

Capri 18 25

Commodore 17 -see Skippers Mate 17

Com-Pac 19 27

Com-Pac Eclipse 18 28

Com-Pac Horizon 18 29

Com-Pac Legacy 17 69*

Com-Pac Sun Cat 17 30

Cornish Crabber 17 31

Cornish Shrimper 19 32

Eagle 21 -see Herreshoff Eagle 21 (18)

Gloucester 16 33

Gloucester 19 34

Goldeneye -see Cape Cod Goldeneye 18 Hermann Cat 17 -see Cape Cod Cat 17

Hermann 19* 70*

Herreshoff America 18 35

Herreshoff Eagle 21 (18) 36

Holder 17* 70*

Hunter 18.5 37

Hunter 19 38

Laguna 16 -see Balboa 16

MacGregor PowerSailer 19 39

Mariner 19 -see Rhodes Mariner 19

Marshall Sanderling 18 40

Maxi-Peep 19 41

Menger Cat 17 42

Menger Cat 19 43

Molly Catboat 17 44

Montego 19 45

Montgomery 15* 71*

Montgomery 17 46

Neptune 16 47

Newport 16 -see Gloucester 16

O'Day 19 48

O'Day 192 49

Peep Hen 14 51

Picnic 17 52

Pierce Arrow 18 53

Precision 165 (16) 54

Precision 18 (17) 55

Quickstep 19* 72*

Rhodes Mariner 19* 73*

Sanderling 18 -see Marshall

Sanderling 18 Sanibel 17 -see Skippers Mate 17 Sanibel 18 -see Skippers Mate 17

Seaward Fox II (17) 56

Silhouette 17* 73*

Skipper 20 (18) 57

Skippers Mate 17 58

Slipper Deckhouse 17 59

Snug Harbor 18 -see Skippers Mate 17

Sovereign 5.0/18 (17) 61

Spindrift 19 -see Starwind 19

Starwind 19 62

Vivacity 20 (19) 63

West Wight Potter 15 64

West Wight Potter 19 65

Windrose 18 66

Windrose 5.5 (18) 67

*13 vessels without accommodations plans are grouped together at end of chapter

Continue reading here: Cute but tiny cutter from Texas

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Readers' Questions

What is the headroom in a marshall cat sanderling?

The headroom in a Marshall Cat Sanderling refers to the amount of available volume/power before the sound starts to distort or clip. It is a measure of how loud you can go without losing clarity and definition in your tone. The exact headroom in a Marshall Cat Sanderling may vary depending on the specific model and settings, but generally, Marshall amps are known for having good headroom which allows for high volume levels with minimal distortion.

What is the interior hight of a 40 foot sailboat?

The interior height of a 40-foot sailboat can vary depending on its specific design and manufacturer. However, on average, the interior headroom of a 40-foot sailboat is typically around 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 meters). It is important to note that the measurements may differ in different areas of the boat, such as cabin areas or the saloon.

What is the headroom in a 2001 hylas 49?

The headroom in a 2001 Hylas 49 is approximately 6 feet 6 inches (1.98 meters) throughout most of the interior cabin area. However, please note that headroom can vary slightly depending on the specific configuration and any modifications made to the boat.

What is the headroom in a spindrift 24 sailboat?

The headroom in a Spindrift 24 sailboat typically ranges from 5 feet 9 inches to 6 feet 2 inches. However, it is always best to check with the manufacturer or the specific boat's specifications to get the most accurate measurement.

When does hunter sailboats build headroom of 6ft 6in.?

Hunter Sailboats typically build headroom of 6ft 6in in their models that are 40 feet and larger in length. However, it is always best to check with the specific model and year of the Hunter Sailboat you are interested in to confirm the headroom measurements.

What is the cabin headroom on a 1999 monk 36?

I'm sorry, but I couldn't find specific information about the cabin headroom of a 1999 Monk 36. It would be best to consult the owner's manual or contact a Monk boat dealer to get accurate measurements for the cabin headroom on that particular model.

What are the factors that determine cabin height [n a sailboat?

The factors that determine cabin height in a sailboat can vary depending on the design and purpose of the boat. However, some common factors include: Boat size: Generally, larger sailboats tend to have higher cabin heights due to the need for increased headroom and accommodations for extended stays. Design and purpose: Sailboats designed for racing typically prioritize low cabin heights to minimize wind resistance and reduce weight. Conversely, cruising or liveaboard sailboats may have higher cabin heights to allow for more comfortable living spaces. Hull shape: The shape of the hull can also affect cabin height. A sailboat with a sleek, low-profile hull design will typically have a lower cabin height compared to a boat with a more rounded or flared hull shape. Keel configuration: The keel configuration can also impact cabin height. Boats with deep draft keels often have deeper cabin spaces below the waterline, which can result in higher cabin heights. Cost and materials: The choice of materials and construction techniques can influence cabin height. Fiberglass or composite construction methods may provide more design flexibility compared to traditional wooden boat construction. Interior layout: The cabin height can also be influenced by the desired interior layout and accommodations. For example, if the boat includes a raised saloon area or multiple sleeping cabins, it may require higher cabin heights to accommodate those features. Accessibility and safety: Cabin heights may also be influenced by accessibility requirements and safety considerations. Higher cabin heights can make it easier to navigate and move around the interior space of the boat, reducing the risk of accidents or injuries. It's important to note that these factors can vary depending on the specific sailboat design and the preferences of the boat manufacturer or designer. Additionally, personal preferences and intended use can also influence the desired cabin height for individual boat owners.

How does stand up headroom affect a sailboat?

Stand up headroom refers to the vertical space inside a sailboat's cabin or main living area. It is an important factor in determining the comfort and usability of the boat for its occupants. Here is how stand-up headroom can affect a sailboat: Comfort: A sailboat with sufficient stand-up headroom provides a more comfortable living environment for its occupants. It allows them to stand upright without hunching over, making activities such as cooking, changing clothes, or moving around the cabin easier and more pleasant. Accessibility: When sailing, being able to move around the cabin without stooping or crawling contributes to accessibility and convenience. This is particularly important during rough weather conditions when it may be difficult to maintain balance and stability. Having enough headroom enhances safety and minimizes the risk of injuries caused by falling or colliding with low overhead objects. Ventilation and fresh air: A sailboat with ample headroom can accommodate larger windows, hatches, and ports, facilitating better ventilation and natural lighting. This promotes air circulation, reduces condensation, and creates a more comfortable and pleasant living environment on board. Storage capacity: Stand-up headroom also affects the storage capacity of a sailboat. More headroom usually means taller lockers and cabinets where gear, supplies, and personal belongings can be stored. It enables boaters to bring along more items and keeps the living area organized and clutter-free. Resale value: Sailboats with generous stand-up headroom tend to have a higher resale value compared to boats with limited headroom. Many buyers prioritize comfort and convenience when selecting a boat, and good headroom is often seen as a desirable feature. It is important to note that stand-up headroom is just one factor to consider when choosing a sailboat. Other considerations include the overall design, performance, stability, and intended use or sailing requirements.

What is the headroom in theta 26 sail boat?

The headroom in a Theta 26 sailboat is approximately 6’6”.

What is the headroom on a union 36 sailboat?

The headroom on a Union 36 sailboat is approximately 6'2".

How to increase headroom on a sailboat with too low of a cabin roof?

Add a taller companionway hatch. Install an arch-style cabin top. Rearrange the interior layout. Install a pop-top to the existing cabin top. Increase hull depth. Install opening hatches or ports. Install dorades or cowl vents. Install adjustable shutters or louvers on existing hatches. Install a centerboard or keel to increase draft. Raise the floor level of the berth or settee.

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Balboa 15 ???

• Thread starter firstsgt
• Start date Mar 16, 2009
• Brand-Specific Forums

I am looking at a 15' long Balboa boat. It appears to be in pretty good shape. No blisters or obvious cracks; the keel isn’t scratched up at all. The access to the top of the keel is small & I can’t see the keel bolts. But the bilge appears to be dry; looks like it has never had much water in the bilge, as it is fairly clean. Mast is straight as is the boom. Some mast fittings have been ham fisted with oversized fasteners, but other wise it appears OK. The fittings on the boat are old, but all appear serviceable, as do the wenches. Which were stored uncovered… The current owner says he doesn't know how old it is. It hasn’t been sailed in two years, is fairly clean, considering it is sitting in an open storage lot. He says he thinks it weighs about 1,800 pounds, with about a 700 pound keel. I have several questions: 1. The current owner has no Manual on the boat. Does anyone have one they'd allow me to copy? Or, would anyone sell me a copy? I'd especially like the specifications page and the rigging pages. 2. I copied down the VIN from the stern. Can anyone tell me how to decipher the information contained therein? I'd like to figure out how old it is, what the actual serial number is, & anything else coded therein. Before I make him a concrete $$$ offer for it. He thinks it is about 20 years old, but doesn’t know. 3. Is there a mast raiser available out there? Or, plans for one would be fine, for the boat? As small as it is I am assuming someone must have developed one. Whisker poles are few & far between here in Wyoming… 4. It appears from looking at the top of the mast to have had a mast head light, thought there is no wiring at all, running down the mast. Inside the cubby there is no battery case, no lead from the top of the cabin to the interior for power, and no stern or bow lights left. Looking at the bow pulpit, it appears there may have been 'something' attached, in the distant past from color differences. Does anyone know if originally this boat had an electrical system? Better yet - if so - does anyone have a wiring diagram they’d share? 5. The trailer – which also is labeled ‘Balboa’ - has an interesting square ‘extension pole’ with two connections for hitches attached. There is even a small (~12”) tire that apparently attaches to it for launch. He says he’s never used it & doesn’t know how to attach the tire. Suggestions on how the tire attaches to the pole or trailer would be greatly appreciated. 6. I tried researching Balboa boats on the net, but don’t find a current manufacturer’s page. I assume they are out of business, or were merged into a different company. Does anyone know? Any information greatly appreciated. Including how these little guys sail. Is it fast, slow, stiff, does it lay over a great deal, or handle wind well. Thank You.  

Here is a link to a .pdf file that tells you how to decipher the HIN. http://www.endeavourowners.com/dscsn/info/hullnumb.html  

The MAINE thing that you have to be very concerned with are all the WENCHES that are stored outside!!!!  

Balboa 16 I think you are actually looking at a Balboa 16' sailboat. I've owned one for a little over a year.. The following weblink has the generic specs and a sideview picture... http://books.google.com/books?id=Lg...ook_result&resnum=4&ct=result#PRA2-PA8-IA6,M1 They weigh about 1000 lbs with a 400lb leaded keel. Nope...no electrical system in these little boats. I just use battery-powered bow and stern lights if I'm out near sundown. There is an egroup on Yahoo's website called "Lost Laguna Sloops." I have some pictures at this link... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LostLagunaSloops/photos/album/482350350/pic/list That site also has scanned copies of some original Laguna/Balboa documents that you might find helpful. From what I gather, there aren't too many of these little boats left...but they sure are a pleasure to sail. Good luck  

djy887 said: I think you are actually looking at a Balboa 16' sailboat. I've owned one for a little over a year.. The following weblink has the generic specs and a sideview picture... http://books.google.com/books?id=Lg...ook_result&resnum=4&ct=result#PRA2-PA8-IA6,M1 They weigh about 1000 lbs with a 400lb leaded keel. Nope...no electrical system in these little boats. I just use battery-powered bow and stern lights if I'm out near sundown. There is an egroup on Yahoo's website called "Lost Laguna Sloops." I have some pictures at this link... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LostLagunaSloops/photos/album/482350350/pic/list That site also has scanned copies of some original Laguna/Balboa documents that you might find helpful. From what I gather, there aren't too many of these little boats left...but they sure are a pleasure to sail. Good luck Click to expand

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Outboard for Balboa 16

• Add to quote

I recently purchased a Balboa 16 sailboat. She displaces 1000 lbs and drafts 25' with a shoal keel. I'll keep it in a marina in the central Puget Sound area. The boat didn't come with an outboard, which brings me to my question. I need a motor to get this little boat in and out of the marina...and maybe bail me out of trouble from the 3-4 knot ebb/flood tides that are common in Puget Sound. I have been told that a 3.5hp would be adequate...I am leaning toward a Merc 3.5hp. It goes 40lbs compared to the 55lbs of the 4 & 5hp motors. Anyone like to weigh in on the adequacy of the 3.5?  

Fine...plenty of power for that boat.  

And be aware, most sailboats require a long shaft outboard.  

Good point John. BTW, there are two important advantages you'd have with the larger 4 or 5 HP engines over the 3.5 HP engine. First, most of the 4-5 HP engines have a transmission with a reverse gear—the 3.5 HP has only forward and neutral, to get reverse you have to turn the engine 180˚. While this may not matter on a dinghy, it may make a difference on sailboat, since you may not be able to turn the outboard 180˚. Second, the 3.5 HP can not take an external fuel tank. This means you'll have to fill the 1/3 gallon tank about once an hour or a bit more. If you're just planning on using the OB to get the boat in and out of the marina, this may not be an issue. If you might need to motor any longer a distance with it, then you may want to re-consider and get an engine that can take an external fuel tank.  

sailingdog said: Good point John. BTW, there are two important advantages you'd have with the larger 4 or 5 HP engines over the 3.5 HP engine. First, most of the 4-5 HP engines have a transmission with a reverse gear-the 3.5 HP has only forward and neutral, to get reverse you have to turn the engine 180˚. While this may not matter on a dinghy, it may make a difference on sailboat, since you may not be able to turn the outboard 180˚. Second, the 3.5 HP can not take an external fuel tank. This means you'll have to fill the 1/3 gallon tank about once an hour or a bit more. If you're just planning on using the OB to get the boat in and out of the marina, this may not be an issue. If you might need to motor any longer a distance with it, then you may want to re-consider and get an engine that can take an external fuel tank. Click to expand...

I sailed a Catalina 22 (2,500 lbs) out of Edmonds in Puget Sound for a year with a 4HP engine. I never had a situation where I was underpowered. 3.5 HP should be plenty of power for that boat.  

My bracket only has an up and a down position. In the down position, the bottom the mounting plate is sitting on the water...I think a short shaft will work fine...and the Merc 3.5 spins to 180 easily. There is no extra storage for an external tank...so I'll just stash an extra one gallon can somewhere. Thank you for the input  

The Balboa I am a recent "sail" convert. I just sold a Bayliner 2252 that I called the "anti-christ." I took a basic keelboat course with a friend several years ago on Shilshole Bay in Seattle. The course was in the middle of January/February...absolutely beautiful sailing weather that time of year in this area. I had started looking for a 22'-25' boat when my wife realized that it was more than just a phase, she stopped my search and we went with a power boat. Don't get me wrong, we had some nice trips up in the San Juan Islands...and the kids loved to get pulled around on a tube in Lake Washington...but the boat was a maintenance nightmare...and $$$ for gas. When the little Balboa 16 was pointed out to me as an abandoned boat that was up for auction by the city...I just had to have it. It just needed some elbow grease to get all cleaned up. Just put up new halyards and got the rigging all checked out. Hired a scuba diver to clean the hull and give the keel and hull a check-out. A friend is re-working the mahoganey rudder for me. As soon as I get an outboard, she will be ready to go. She has a full cabin with a V-berth and twin 7' settees. Can't wait for the sea trails in the next week or so...the weather was gorgeous up here today.  

Well...its been awhile I ended up with a Tohatsu 2 stroke 3.5hp from Craigslist (free!!!) and it works great. Have done a lot of daysailing with her...she needs a good bottom job and the sails could use a good refurb. =  

Attachments

DjY887 said: I ended up with a Tohatsu 2 stroke 3.5hp from Craigslist (free!!!) and it works great. = Click to expand...

Balboa 16...one year later She has been an absolute joy. Simple, cheap, and easy to sail. I just had her pulled and painted...for the first time it turns out. I upgraded the secondary propulsion system to a like-new Merc 2 stroke I found at a local boat repair shop.  

Trailering problems Balboa 16 I bought this Balboa 16 from DjY887 last October. I stumbled upon this post quite by accident when I was googling for information about Balboa 16s. I started reading the post and thought "hey, that sounds just like my boat." Then it was "hey, that IS my boat!" DjY did a great job of restoring her. I looked for a year for a 15 -16' pocket cruiser. I had owned a '74 Sunfish since high school and loved sailing it, but all good things must come to an end. The Sunfish needed a lot of repairs and I had outgrown it. The minute I saw the Balboa 16, I fell in love and bought her on the spot. One of the first things I did though was to replace the outboard. I found that a long shaft was more comfortable. I also did not care to stop the boat and swivel the motor around to put it into reverse as this caused a lack of control at critical moments. I had my EZ Loader retrofitted to fit the fin keel and trailered it to Priest Lake ID recently. I had a great deal of trouble finding someone competent and interested in doing the retrofit. The first person I hired did not brace the uprights adequately. One of the uprights bent on the way home from picking it up at DjY's and I nearly lost my load. This necessitated having a boat moving company out to remove the boat from the trailer so I could have it fixed. The boat moving company advised me to move the fin keel closer to the axles, support the keel, lower the load with shorter uprights, and brace the uprights. This caused the load to be shifted further back on the trailer so that the boat hangs over the end 4' or so. I'm wondering if it is too far back and this will cause a hook in the aft end because it is unsupported. The boat is also wider than the wheel axles. Could this be hazardous? When I came to the top of a long hill on Snoqualmie Pass, I hit the breaks and..............nothing happened! It is impossible that the load was pushing me, but the RPMs were low. I am towing it with a 6 cyl, 4.0 L 4x4 Ford Ranger. I think the boat and trailer together weigh about 1700 lbs. The tongue weight is 158 lbs. I have been assured that the tow vehicle should be able to handle this load without need for trailer breaks, but now I am wondering. Should I invest in a different trailer altogether? I had the truck and trailer thouroughly inspected, but there were no mechanical problems. Any thoughts out there?  

Rag, GREAT STORY! Not much else to add, sounds like the boat found a great new home. Enjoy!  

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The Scraper-only Approach to Bottom Paint Removal

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The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions

Cockpit Drains on Race Boats

Re-sealing the Seams on Waterproof Fabrics

Safer Sailing: Add Leg Loops to Your Harness

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits

• Sailboat Reviews

Balboa 26 Used Boat Test

Designed by lyle hess, this unsung, affordable pocket cruiser offers a big bang for the buck. capable of trailering to windward and skimming through shallow water, it offers all the versatility of todays trailer sailers at one-tenth of the price. the swing-keel hinge pin and rigging deserve a close look, however, and a cosmetic makeover can require some serious sweat equity..

As with all of Lyle Hess designs, the Balboa 26 statistics reveal the underpinnings of a seaworthy coastal cruiser. The Balboas 3,600-pound displacement includes 1,200 pounds of ballast, by no means a lead mine, but the B26s 8-foot beam was carried well aft, and its reasonably full sections contributed form stability and helped make the little sloop a seakindly performer. With 293 square feet of working sail area, the B26 is close in potential performance to the Excalibur 26, Cal 25, and Columbia 26, all vaunted designs of the same era.

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The Balboa 26 is a bargain-priced pocket cruiser thats stood up well to the test of time. Even after three decades of use, these $4,000-$15,000 boats still remain a popular choice for those with a big dream and a small budget. Its swing keel, shallow draft, and ability to be trailered upwind to cruising destinations all over the country make it more versatile than your average 26-foot, plastic production boat.

Billy Black (www.billyblack.com)

Part of the mystique of the Balboa 26 is its birth on the drawing board of legendary pocket-cruiser designer Lyle Hess, whose love of small, functional cruising sailboats dates back to Blackfoot, Idaho, when a boy daydreamed of ocean sailing even though the Snake River was the only water in sight.

Finally arriving in Long Beach, Calif., in 1928, Hess and 11 siblings set out to carve a new life amidst a Southern California in transition. At 16, Hess designed and built a hard-chine, 17-foot, vest-pocket cruiser and explored Catalina Island with his brother, Lee. Boatbuilding proved to be a labor of love, but the housing boom associated with the end of World War II proved more lucrative. Lyle Hess dove in, spending the post war years as a family man, house builder, and part-time yacht designer.

The advent of fiberglass and collaboration with die-hard wooden boat aficionado Larry Pardey, moved Hess back into a full-time commitment to sailboat design. Pardey chose Hess Renegade design as the boat hed build and eventually sail with his partner, Lin.

At about the same time, Larry Pardey introduced Hess to Richard Arthur. Arthur saw him as the right designer to create a fiberglass “folk boat” in Southern California, and Arthur Marine kicked off production of the Hess-designed Balboa 20 and 26 in 1972. Their instant popularity lives on today.

A key part of the Hess design credo was that a sailboat must have the sea-keeping ability to take a crew offshore and return them home safely. As with all of his designs, the Balboa 26 statistics reveal the underpinnings of a seaworthy coastal cruiser. The Balboas 3,600-pound displacement includes 1,200 pounds of ballast, by no means a lead mine, but the B26s 8-foot beam was carried well aft, and its reasonably full sections contributed form stability and helped make the little sloop a seakindly performer. With 293 square feet of working sail area, the B26 is close in potential performance to the Excalibur 26, Cal 25, and Columbia 26, all vaunted designs of the same era. But with a swing keel, short rig, and retractable rudder that can morph 5 feet of draft into a 30-inch shoal water gunkholer, the Balboa 26 is both a skinny-water cruiser and a proficient coastal passage maker thats capable on all points of sail.

DECK LAYOUT

A molded toerail and nonskid pattern works in conjunction with cabinhouse handrails and a single lifeline to help insure that the crew stays on board. The trade-off associated with spacious accommodations is a wide cabinhouse that all but eliminates the sidedecks. Cleats and chocks are small but adequate, and the cockpit works well for a couple. Put more than three aboard, and theres a scramble to find deck space to alleviate the crowd in the cockpit.

The mast step features a hinge that helps in the stepping and un-stepping process, an essential part of the trailer sailors routine.

The aft lower shrouds on these boats are set well inboard and fastened to a chainplate thats attached to the cabinhouse. The acute angle between the shroud and mast increases the loading on the wire and hardware.

A close, point-by-point inspection of the standing rigging should be carried out annually, and care needs to be taken while stepping and un-stepping the rig to make sure that the turnbuckles are not bent during the process. Most riggers feel that a 10-year lifespan is about all they can recommend for average recreational use. Many older boats have standing rigging twice that age, and relying on such rigging is sailing on borrowed time. Its a dangerous and costly wager to make. All it takes is for one small component to fail and the rig will end up over the side.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The layout aboard the Balboa 26 makes it a fine warm-weather boat, with a huge companionway hatch that opens up the interior and provides lots of light and air, a useful trait at anchor or sailing in light-air conditions. Shelter from sunlight can be provided by a convenient collapsible bimini top that arches over the cockpit and companionway. Its ideal when at anchor, but when underway it can creates excess windage.

The saloon is surprisingly spacious for a 26-foot boat. A dinette to port converts into a big berth, and when the table is up, it works as a nav station, dining table, and an all-around good spot to hangout, read, or swap yarns with cruising friends. This portion of the cabin has the feel of a bigger boat, despite the swing keel slot, which is well hidden by a molded liner shell. Pans and liners are a mixed blessing in that they offer a smooth surface for cleaning and aesthetics, but they hide access to parts of the inner hull skin and bilge that makes the cleaning or re-bedding of leaking hardware fasteners more difficult.

The galley is minimal: a one- or two-burner, fixed stove; small sink with an ice box to port; and a locker for pots and pans to starboard. Its basically enough space for a backpacker to feel pampered, but by no means an optimum set-up for those thinking of longer-term, comfortable cruises.

The same holds true of the head arrangement, which, in this era of discharge regulations, has evolved into a dedicated location for a port-a-potty. Its location adjacent to the V-berth offers ample motivation for frequent trips ashore, or at least a yearning for the days of a cedar bucket. Originally there was a marine head and a sink, but fitting a holding tank is tough. It still irks us that while the worst polluters can buy credits to comply with U.S. Environmental Protection Agency rules, sailors—an easy target, it seems—will never be able to exchange hours spent under wind propulsion for an overboard discharge or two in remote, well-flushed bodies of water. Trying to put a holding tank in a small vessel with barely enough room for a 20-gallon water tank almost inevitably gives a boat the ambiance of an outhouse.

PERFORMANCE

A couple of months ago, Practical Sailor had the chance to sail a 30-year-old Balboa 26 thats still being used by the Florida Keys Bareboat Charter Co. ( www.pagancharm.com ) in its active charter trade in Marathon, Fla. The fact that this old vessel can still be counted on to perform day in and day out is a real testimony to good boat design/building and the value of a simple, easy-to-refit sailboat.

As we cleared the tight confines of the small marina using the transom-mounted 9.8-horsepower, long-shaft outboard, we were reminded that the ease of “going sailing” is inversely proportionate to the size of the boat.

The outboard auxiliary performed well, but maneuvering in reverse took some practice. It became easier once we were accustomed to having a prop situated astern of the rudder rather than ahead of the blade. As we motored away from the marina, it was clear that an 8- or 9-horsepower outboard provided plenty of push. In fact, those interested in saving some weight, money, and fuel could do just fine with a 6-horsepower, long-shaft model.

All it took was the removal of a few sail ties and an easy halyard hoist, and the manageable mainsail was up and trimmed. A tug on the leeward jib sheet spun open a big, 150-percent genoa that was tamed by a Harken headsail furling system. It was a butter-smooth operating furler that was easy to deploy and retrieve.

Less than five minutes after leaving the dock, we were fully powered and reaching smoothly through the turquoise water of the Florida Keys, watching a dolphin slip by in the shallow water.

The 15-knot puffs were fine on a reach, but when we trimmed and steered closer to the wind, it was clear that a little less genoa would decrease heel and actually improve the boats ability to go to weather. We bore off, blanketed the genoa with the main in order to depower the sail and wind in a few turns on the furler. This reduced the genoa to about a 120-percent and made the beat more efficient, giving us a couple of tenths more boat speed with less heel. We had the swing keel almost all the way down, and the soft touch of the helm convinced us that the center of effort and center of lateral resistance were right where they belonged.

Off the wind, a cruising spinnaker would have livened up the show, but the big genoa did keep us moving efficiently until we steered deeper than about 135 degrees and the mainsail began to choke off the flow over the headsail. Rolling in some of the genoa and setting a whisker pole would be another good way to deal with deep sailing angles.

The boats responsive helm made each tack quick and efficient. Line leads, winches, and cleats were in the right places and with the fairly new set of sails, the 30-year-old sloop offered 90 percent of the performance of most new pocket cruisers, yet carried a price tag less than 25 percent of a new boat price.

CONCLUSIONS

The down side of an older boat, especially one with a swing keel, is that there are usually plenty of little things to fix. When it comes to the Balboa 26, the swing keel should regularly get a close look. This includes pulling the swing keels pivot pin every couple of seasons and inspecting it, as well as the surface that supports the load. The lift cable will eventually fray and will need replacement, along with the hand-crank winch used to hoist and lower the keel. Rigging wire and hardware may look fine, but after years—maybe decades—of use, it can be an accident waiting to happen. Any inspection of the standing rigging should also include a close look at the lifelines, stanchions, and pulpits.

Tackling the cosmetic refit of a three-decades-old sailboat is more about paint than polish. Gelcoat crazing, blisters, and cracks can be fixed with epoxy fillers and primers, and one- or two-part topcoat paints can yield a better-than-new finish if the applicators skills and availability are up to the challenge. Hiring a boatyard to do the job can cost more than the purchase price of the boat, so before you commit to a long-in-the-tooth Balboa 26 (or other oldie but goodie), determine three things: How extensive a refit is required; who will do the work; and how much it will cost. If your answers are, “entirely renew the finish on all exterior gelcoat, myself, and very little,” and you have minimal painting experience, we suggest the following: Buy an old, tired dinghy, such as a small Dyer or Montgomery, and give it the makeover you have in mind for the B26. If, when youre finished, you like what you see and you still enjoy the hands-on effort of the do-it-yourself approach, you are indeed ready for a bigger challenge. If you arent as enthused with the idea, consider a B26 that costs more but has already made the pilgrimage to the co-polymer fountain of youth.

One big plus of the Balboa 26 is Hess cult-like following, which has engendered active owners groups. Discussions range from traveler upgrades to great adventures of the sort that very few boats in this price range can offer.

• Critic’s Corner: Balboa 26
• Interior Notes: Balboa 26
• Balboa 26 Construction Details
• Balboa 26 In Context

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

The Balboa 26 “Resources” link above points to the obsolete Yahoo group. The active groups are: E-mail group: https://groups.io/g/BalboaSailboats Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/BalboaSailboats/

Thanks for the information on the E-mail and facebook. I just became the owner of a B26 that was abandoned in an aircraft hanger in central Indiana. the new owner of the hanger wanted it out of there and gave it to me, trailer and all. I’ve been able to obtain a LOST TITLE but have to get it to my place in north florida. lots of work to do as all teak is removed for refinishing. Not sure what all has to be done, as I’ve only been aboard Her one time. Will post what all I find as far as equiptment and condition. Thanks Again

I don’t know when I’ll get the boat moved to Jacksonville,Fl. I’m 81 now and have crossed over to the Abacos 9 times, all but 1 were deliveries. ‘Once in my OWENS 25 FT. cabin cruiser. Not sure I want to do it again at my age. Sometimes one has to get around on deck quickly. 20 years ago I’d cross with this boat assuming all works out with the refit. My wife says NO!! even though we have a 50 year old step son who’d like to do it. Some sea trials might come into play. We’ll cross that strait if We get to it.

Hey Charles. How are you doing? Im from Brazil, me and couple of mates are planing on sailing from florida to brazil. We are planing the trip. Do you know of a good place in florida were we could do some “repar work” before departing? We planning onto pick up a Balboa 26″ in CA drive to florida. Thanks in avance Davi

Has anyone out there done a total rework of the mast step on-a 74 Balboa.?

I probably would never take mine further than I could swim to shore. However, my Aquarius 23, thats a different story. Only a small portion of the ballast is in the swing keel. The bulk of the lead is incapsulated inside.

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