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420 Rigging Guide
Go To: Sailing - Rigging Guides
Posted on 14 March 2009 19:26
A smaller version of the olympic 470 class, the 420 was formerly a youth development class (i.e. young people trained up in the 420 before moving onto olympic class boats), the 420 has a good class following, and is a good introduction to performance boats.
The 420 has a Plymouth Yardstick (Handicap Number) of 1087 - pretty fast, but still fair. For those who like the 420, as they progress they may move into the larger 470, which has a similar layout but is slightly larger. The 420 has a single crew trapeze and a symmetric spinnaker, and for those nutters amongst you, can even be setup to sail single handed.
Photo 1, The 420, ready to rig with no wind.
Photo 2, Cockpit layout
Photo 3, Front bulkhead and mast
What You need
- Hull - Mast + Shrouds and Forestay - Boom - Main Sail - Rudder - Centreboard (usually attached) - Outhaul - Downhaul - Kicking Strap - Bungs - Painter Rope - Elastic bungee for the trapeze
Photo 4, Mast and halyard jammer arrangement
Photo 5, Thwarte and centreboard
Photo 6, Rudder pintles
Photo 7, Traveller
Lets Get Started!
Photo 8, Jib sheet jammers
Photo 9, Parts laid out ready to rig
Before starting for the first time, make sure you have everything available, or a rope and spares box handy. The 420 hull is smooth with no chines (ridges), so can be quite "tippy". Once again the 420 is a restricted design rather than one design, so there is room for alternatives, if you want to experiment or upgrade, we suggest you take a look at the 420 Class Rules for more information.
Photo 10, Closeup of kicker parts
Photo 11, Underside of boom
We chose not to take apart the mast and take it down. If yours comes with the mast off, which it possibly will, it's a simple matter of untangling the shroud and forestay wires, dropping the bottom of the mast into the mast step inside the boat (after checking the bottom of the mast is clean), and then securing the shroud and forestay wires with split pins and rings or whatever other fittings are on your boat. It's a good idea to check the state of the pulley sheaves in the bottom of the mast - if these are rusted, jammed up or just don't run very well it makes it harder to hoist the sails.
We recommend two people to step the mast - one to hold the mast up while the other attaches the pins. Masts on 420's can vary, with jammers and pulley blocks in different positions. The spreaders should be adjustable - although we haven't yet covered adjusting these in an article, look for one soon.
Photo 12, Back end of boom
Photo 13, Kicker attachment on boom
Photo 14, Spinnaker pole holders
Photo 15, Attach the jib to the front chainplate
Attach the fitting at the bottom of the jib luff to the chainplate or fixing at the front of the deck, as shown in Photo 15. The jib goes behind the forestay, as shown. Attach the top of the jib luff to the free end of the halyard with a shackle (Photo 16), and then hoist the jib. Tie the halyard off into the appropriate jammer/cleat, usually found on the mast on a 420. At this point, if the mast is adjusted correctly, the jib luff should now be tight, and the forestay a little slack, as shown in the photo. To achieve this, the best way is for one person to pull forward on the forestay to pull the mast forward slightly, while the other hoists the jib.
Photo 16, Attach the jib to the end of the halyard
Next, attach the jib sheets to the clew on the jib. The easiest way is to double the rope over to find the midpoint, tie one stopper knot, feed it through the clew, and then tie another stopper knot the other side - this keeps the rope with equal lengths either side (Photo 19). Feed the working ends of each jib sheet inside each shroud and trapeze wire, through the fairlead and jammer block (Photo 20). Finish it off with a stopper or figure 8 knot.
Photo 17, Hoist the jib
Photo 18, Jib hoisted. The wind was starting to pick up...
Photo 19, Jib sheet attached to clew of jib
An alternative method is to use continuous jib sheets, particularly if you are mad enough to sail it single handed. There are two ways to do this - either rig as above, and tie the ends together, or for a more permanent arrangement without any knots in the boat, dou need to do this slightly back to front, and feed the working ends through the jammers backwards, before attaching to the sail. Pass each end through the clew so there are two lengths of rope going through the clew, and then tie a fishermans knot - tie a single basic knot in each piece of rope, with the other end passing through the middle of it. This will make it harder to take the jib sheets off, so don't do it if you need to derig quickly; it also means you can't use the jibsheet to help right the boat after a capsize.
Photo 20, Pass the jib sheets through the jammers
Photo 21, Slide the main sail foot car into the boom
3. Main Sail onto boom
Next, feed the car on the bottom of the mainsail (Photo 21), and then the mainsail foot, into the slot on the top of the boom (Photo 22). Pull it along until it reaches the end (photo 23), then slide a cotter pin into the fitting at the end (Photo 24), through the eye in the tack, to hold the front egde of the sail.
Photo 22, Pull the main sail along the boom
Photo 23, All the way to the end
Photo 24, Pin the tack of the main sail
Photo 25, Thread the outhaul rope thorugh the jammer
We have the end of our outhaul rope whipped with tape to stop it fraying, and we had no source of flame available. Put a knot in one end of the outhaul rope, and then pass the other, working end, through the v jammer style cleat on the underside of the boom (Photo 25). Pass it through the boom end (Photo 26), around the sheave (Photo 27), and through to the top of the boom (Photo 28). Next, either attach it to a shackle (Photo 29) and the shackle to the clew of the sail, or directly attach it to the clew using a bowline. The complete outhaul can be seen in Photo 31. If you are setting up the boat for competitive racing, you may wish to change this arrangement, just remember to keep within the class rules!
Photo 26, Then through the end of the boom
Photo 27, Around the sheave
Photo 28, Pull it through
Photo 29, Attach to a shackle or the sail
Photo 30, A shackle can be used for quick derigging
Photo 31, Outhaul complete
5. Hoist mainsail
Attach the main sail halyard to the top of the mainsail using an appropriate shackle (Photo 32), then one person should feed the main sail luff into the slot on the back of the mast (Photo 33), as the other hoists it using the halyard (Photo 34).
Photo 32, Attach the main sail halyard
Photo 33, Feed the main sail luff into the mast slot
Do not put the boom on the gooseneck yet - one person should lift the boom to take the weight off the sail, and then hoist the sail to the top of the mast. Next, pull down on the boom and feed it onto the gooseneck (Photo 35).
Photo 34, Hoist the main sail
Photo 35, Pull the boom down to the gooseneck
Now, put the kicker together. A swivel block is attached to the mast, and a v-jammer to the underside of the boom. In our pictures, the v-jammer is attached to a short length of steel wire, which is permanently fixed onto the underside of the boom.
Photo 36, Assemble the kicker
Photo 37, Assemble the kicker
Next, feed the rope through the blocks as shown, starting by tying the one end to the becket on the v-jammer, down through the swivel block from underneath up to the top, then back up to the v-jammer, around and out through the jammer. Put a stopper or figure 8 knot in the end to sop it going through. See Photos 36-38 to assemble the kicker, and Photo 39 for the completed kicking strap.
7. Trapeze Handles + Elastic
Assemble the trapeze handle jammers in the same manner as the kicker - although in the picture shown, our top block is twisted round (Photo 40). A length of elastic reaches from one handle to the other, going from a handle, through a fairlead, through a whole in the deck/bow, behind the mast, then out the other side to the other trapeze handle (Photos 41 and 42). We'd recommend not using the trapeze the first time you go out, until you get more used to the boat, unless you are a very experienced trapeze artist!
Photo 38, Assemble the kicker
Photo 39, The complete kicker (2:1)
Photo 40, An assembled trapeze wire and handle
Photo 41, The trapeze elastic
8. Mainsheet + Traveller
Tie one end of the main sheet to the fairlead fixing in the middle of the underside of the boom behind the swivel block (Photo 43), with a bowline (Photo 44). Feed it through the block attached to the traveller behind the centreboard (Photo 45), then back up and through the swivel block on the boom (Photo 46). Next, take the working end down, and through the pull and then the jammer block (Photo 47), and finish off with a stopper or figure 8 knot.
Photo 42, The trapeze elastic
Photo 43, Attach the main sheet to the boom
Different traveller designs are used on 420s - on ours an older one is in use, which has seen better days. Unfortunately, its broken to the point where it can no longer be used as a traveller, and is difficult to replace because it is fixed onto the bouyancy tanks at either side - this is an important thing to look out for when buying a 420.
Photo 44, Attach the main sheet to the boom
Photo 45, Through the pulley on the traveller
In theory, the position of the traveller can either be fixed by jamming the adjustment lines to control the amount of twist in the sail, or left to move from side to side as required.
Photo 46, Back up to the pulley on the boom
Photo 47, The complete mainsheet
This is an easy one - attach the rudder to the pintles on transom as shown (Photo 48). Depending on your style of rudder/tiller, you may have uphaul and/or downhaul lines on it (Photo 49).
Photo 48, Add the rudder
Photo 49, Attach the rudder uphaul
Ensure you place all bungs into holes that require them - this is important, as 420's have very large bouyancy tanks which don't take well to filling up with water (Photos 50 and 51).
Photo 50, Don't forget the bungs!
Photo 51, Don't forget the bungs!
11. Buying a 420
There are several things to watch out for when buying a second hand 420. First of all, check for the springiness of the tops of the bouyancy tanks, where you sit - these can be weaker on older models and are difficult to strengthen. Also look at the traveller and see what condition it is in, and how easy to replace - be careful if it is similar to ours as we are having difficulty locating spares to repair ours. As always, check for the condition of the deck, and look for any cracks or damage, particularly along seams, joins and structural areas.
On the mast, the pulley blocks can wear out quickly, as they tend to sit in water at the bottom of the boat. This can make it hard to hoist the sail. On the subject of the sail - check the luff for any damage, particularly around the top full length batten where it can wear and make it hard to hoist the sail.
Check any hairline cracks around the hull - it is usual to see them on an older boat, just make sure they aren't hiding more damage, particularly in corners or joins.
There you have it - a fully rigged and ready to sail 420. The 420 does have a spinnaker - unfortunately we had no wind when we started rigging our boat, but a devilish Force 6 by the time we finished, so not very good for rigging a spinnaker on land. We will revisit the 420 soon and add an article on rigging the spinnaker.
Photo 52, The 420, all rigged (minus spinnaker)
Photo 53, A rather windy day by now, with good sail shape and streaming telltales!
- Download the PDF version of this article
Fig 1. Get all the gear ready
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by Jim Young
From out of the box to ready to go sailing, this is how to set up your new C420. Lots of pictures here, study them carefully. Start with the hull. Make sure all fittings are securely attached. Have a roll of tape handy, and use it to tape over any split rings or cotter pins that do not normally get adjusted. Then move on to getting the lines inside the hull organized, it will make life much easier to do it first rather than wait until after the mast is up. (also called the centerboard trunk). Take a close look at the top of the and all the . The aft/starboard cleat is for the board uphaul, and the forward/port cleat is for the board downhaul. Make sure both are free and working. Notice in the photo how the board uphaul line is tied off for traveling.
. The front ends actually go over the top of the New in 2006, a new hiking strap that lets you fix the length between the skipper and crew position, really great for a shorter crew to be sure the strap is longer. Use the eyes to tie to the crossbar with utility cord, not shock cord. Next, attach the mainsheet ratchet block to the eye strap on the back end of the board box - not to the eye on the bar - on its stand-up spring.
Set the mast in the boat, align the mast base groove with the bolt, and raise the mast. tail through the clam cleat on the front of the mast that is about 1 1/2 ft above the deck, then run the tail through the center of the cleat on the PORT side of the mast below the deck. Tie a figure-8 in this end so its does not run back out of the cleat.
; the part below the hook runs through the hole in the deck in front of the mast, and down through the eye on the hull that is just to the left of the mast base.From there, this shock cord gets tied off to to a piece of utility line that ties to the hiking strap eye strap at the back of the cockpit. The other end of the comes down the startboard side of the mast to the block on the mast base that is mounted from the mast, then up underneath the board box cap to the front cleat on the starboard side of the boardbox. The is next; look up the mast, and take the end that comes over the top of the block and tie it off somewhere convenient - a good rigging habit to get into, is to tie this to the hook (called a twing or pole guy hook) on the PORT edge of the boat that is just in front of the stay plates - this is the end that will eventually get tied to the head of the spinnaker, and it gets tied so that the halyard pulls the spinnaker out of the bag on the PORT side of the jib. The end of the halyard that comes down the mast goes through to block on the lower port side of the mast base, then along underneath the boardbox cap and comes out the small hole on the back end of the boardbox, where there is also a cleat for it. Finally the the rope tail that is tied to the halyard block comes down the starboard side of the mast, all the way to the block on the bottom that is closest to the mast. Don't tie any knots in this line - as the jib is raised, the end of the line first goes through that block that is on the end of the wire part of the halyard, then back down to the standard cleat on the starboard side of the mast that is opposite of the cleat that the main halyard uses. This is the line that controls mast rake and takes all of the load so its important that it works well. There is one other small line, about 4 ft long, it gets tied to he loop on the mast that is just below the gooseneck, and is the cunningham, it goes through the cunningham eye on the mainsail and to the cleat on the other side of the mast from the eye it is tied to.
Almost out of lines to worry about; next is the This is a small, 9-ft line that needs a loop tied in the middle, then the ends go through the large shackles on either end of the bar that runs across the cockpit at the back end of the board box. The mainsheet block that you thought went on the eye strap just in front of the ratchet block gets attached to the loop. If you are lucky, this line has 'slip loops' already spliced on the ends, if not, you will have to be creative with knots on either end that you can easily adjust. The idea here is that the height of this mainsheet block can be adjusted for different winds, higher for light wind and lower for stronger wind, so that the boom can stay closer to the centerline. The two photos left and below show the block with becket attached to the center of the bridle, and the complete assembly with its slip splices. Notice on left photo, no shackle is used, to help keep it lighter. And below, everything to make a bridle, a marking pen and a knife with a splicing fid.
Here is a photo of the bridle/mainsheet system on the boat. Look closely for the 'slip splices' in both ends of the bridle - you can see the ends hanging down out of the splices. Now, attach the boom to the mast, and run the line from the cleat on the boom to the block on the end of the boom, and just put in a convenient knot that can be undone fast. It goes up through the clew eye on the mainsail, then tied to the eye on the opposite side of the boom end from the block. Then the , it attaches first to the block on the bridle, then up to the forward boom block, then back around the block it started at, back up around to the aft boom block, and finally down to the ratchet block (see photo here).
, its a one-piece continuous line. Start by tieing one end to the forestay, then take the other end and go around the outside of the boat to the sheet block that is on the rail of the boat just in front of where the helmsman sits. Pull all of the slack line through the block, and tie a figure-8 in it 12' from the end that is tied to the forestay; make sure the fig-8 knot is on the BACK side of the block, not on the spinnaker side!. When this knot is in the right place, it will prevent the end of the spinnaker pole from hitting the forestay if it is accidentally released. (Check this knot position after everything is set up by hoisting the spinnaker and pushing the pole forward, and retie as necessary to keep the pole off the forestay.) Then run all of the line across the boat, in FRONT of all of the mainsheet system, and thru the block on the other side, and up to the forestay. Mark or hold where it enters that block, pull the end back through, and put in a figure-8 here on this side, same as the other side, 12' from the end of the line - and remember to check the knot position on this side. These figure-8s may need to be adjusted after time, when the lines have stretched out a bit, if the pole can hit the forestay. The jib sheet is another one-piece line, The center of it is normally tied to the clew of the jib and left there. When the boat is rigged for sailing, the ends of the sheet goe through the pad eyes on the deck across the cleats, and figure-8s are tied int he ends. (Neat rigging trick ~ I set up my custom jib sheets with a small piece of Endura 12, a high-tech line, spliced through the center of the line with about 10" of it hanging out. This small line ties to the clew instead of a big knot in the sheet itself. With this system, there are no big, bulky knots to hang up on the mast when you tack and jibe.)
Tie the trapeze adjuster line to the bottom of the cleat on the trapeze wires, then run it through the middle bar of the trapeze loop or ring (called a dogbone) then run the line back up and through the cleat, finishing off with a fingure-8. The small loop that you left in the trapeze shockcord a long time ago then comes up through the dogbone, and take the loop end back over the bottom of the bone to secure it. Do the same on the other side. Notice that I run everything around the middle of the dogbone; the small ring is now a 'high' trapeze position for waves or with spinnaker, and the long side of the 'bone is the 'low' position for normal upwind sailing. This quickly gives the two positions needed without having to adjust the line throught the cleat.
This is the beginning point of all tuning in this boat. Get out your tuning guide and memorize the mast rake measurement for light winds (21' 6 1/2"), this is your set-up and starting point. Mast rake is measured by tieing a tape measure to the main halyard, and pulling the main halyard up the mast all the way. Then pull the tape to take the slack out of it, over the middle of the transom of the boat and down to the the bottom of the hull, and read the tape measure at the center of the bottom of the hull.. to get to the correct number - it helps a lot to have someone pushing back on the mast so the forestay is tight. Then put a mark on the mast at the top of the block that is on the end of the wire part of the jib halyard. Now ease off the jib halyard, and slowly tighten up the side stay adjusters, and retighten the jib halyard, to check on the stay tension (use a Loos Guage, or simply twang the wires, you should get a nice low note, not a wabble-wabble of the rig - and yes, to get to this point, the jib halyard gets pulled really tight). As the rig gets tight, you will probably see the rake measurement change, just put another new mark on the mast at the correct jib halyard position. In the photo right, the current setting, with the wire swedge on the bottom band, is for light wind (mast farther foreward). The middle tape is the setting for medium wind, and the top tape for heavy air. Once you have a nice, tight rig with the rake set for light winds, you can mark the side stay adjusters so you remember the position (or better yet, write down the pin position in the new notebook that you have for your C420 sailing), and then tape the pins and rings. Then use your tuning guide and measure the mast rake for medium (21' 2") and strong (20' 9 1/2") winds, and make the marks on the mast at the top of the jib halyard block for those settings, so you can instantly set up your boat for different conditions without have to measure anything. Hint; make sure the forestay is tight when you measure the rake, by either pushing back on the mast or pulling hard on the side stays. As you rake the mast further back for medium and strong winds, the side stays will get some slack. Take this slack out by tightening the side stay adjusters. Second Hint; let the forestay off just a bit so you can get the adjuster pins in a bit lower, then make sure you can pull the rig back to the correct mast rake. Experienced - and highly skilled - crews may want to set the rig much tighter in stronger winds. This is a SKILL adjustment, it will not make the boat 'faster' if the sailors don't have the knowledge and strong-wind skills to handle it. My rigging numbers for mast rake come from North Sails, and like most magic numbers, should be considered as guides, not as firm rules. Mast rake should be rechecked during the season - and especially at big events. Lines, even the steel stay wires, change with time and load, and its normal for the measurments to change. For this reason, on new boats especially, use tape on the mast and mark the tape with the rake settings instead of putting marks on the mast that may change with time.
The head of the spinnaker gets tied to that line that you tied to the hook on the port rail a long time ago, and the other ends get tied to the sheet lines (hint; don't tie the sheets to the sail, take the line through the eyes in the sail and use figure-8 knots, its less bulky), and then the spinnaker gets stuffed into the spinnaker bag, just make sure you do it so that the halyard to the spinnaker head comes down on the port side of the forestay and BOTH sheet lines come out of the same side, with one of the sheet lines going around the front of the forestay. When the spinnaker is in the bag, take the slack out of the spinnaker sheet, and ease the spinnaker halyard so that you can hook the halyard back under that same hook on the port side that you had it tied to - the halyard stays there for normal sailing, part of the crew's job before hoisting the spinnaker is to get the halyard out of the hook, and after the spinnaker is down, the halyard should be pulled back under the hook again. This keeps it from flopping around and possibly twisting around the stays, which makes it really ugly when its time to get the spinnaker back up. The
I used to have a full rig kit of lines - but everybody has personal preferences! If you want at least 3 "main" lines (sheets and/or halyards) contact us for options and pricing. Below are some recommendations. Check out my Gear pages on this web site for a complete list of lines and other goodies. Pricing is dirt-cheap - and even cheaper for teams/groups/clubs that have worked with me. If you don't see something you need or want, to let me know what you need. |
| Everything here, photos and text, © 2005-18 Jim Young |
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- Information
- Line Lengths
- LaserPerformance
LaserPerformance Club 420 Line Guide
| Description | Diameter | Line Type | Length | Qty | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Halyards | |||||
| Main Halyard | 1/4" | 6mm | Prestretch Polyester | 40’ | 1 |
| Jib Halyard | 1/4" | 6mm | Prestretch Polyester | 16’ | 1 |
| Jib Halyard Wire | 3/32" | 2.5mm | Wire 7x19 | 14’ 6" | 1 |
| Spinnaker Halyard | 5/32" | 4mm | Prestretch Polyester | 38’ | 1 |
| Sheets | |||||
| Jib Sheet | 5/16" | 8mm | Braided Polypropylene | 25’ | 1 |
| Main Sheet | 5/16" | 8mm | Braided Polypropylene | 25’ | 1 |
| Spinnaker Sheet | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch or Dyneeema | 36’ | 1 |
| Control Lines | |||||
| Boomvang 4:1 | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 15’ | 1 |
| Cunningham | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 5’ | 1 |
| Outhaul | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 10’ | 1 |
| Topping Lift | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 30’ | 1 |
| Trapeze Adjustment | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 4.5’ | 2 |
| Other | |||||
| Foreguy | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 11’ | 1 |
| Centerboard Downhaul | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 4’ 6" | 1 |
| Centerboard Uphaul | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 7’ 6" | 1 |
| Hiking Strap Center Tie Down | 5/32" | 4mm | Prestretch Polyester | 1’ 6" | 2 |
| Hiking Strap Aft Tie Down | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 4’ | 1 |
| Hiking Strap Shockcord | 1/4" | 6mm | Shockcord | 4’ 6" | 1 |
| Mainsheet Bridle | 1/8" | 3mm | Amsteel / D-12 | 11’ | |
| Painter | 5/16" | 8mm | Braided Polypropylene | 15’ | 1 |
| Pole Keeper Shockcord | 3/16" | 5mm | Shockcord | 9’ | 1 |
| Spinnaker Bag Attachment | 3/16" | 5mm | Shockcord | 2’ 3" | 1 |
| Spinnaker Block Lines | 3/16" | 5mm | Prestretch Polyester | 2’ | 2 |
| Trapeze Retractor | 3/16" | 5mm | Shockcord | 11’ | 1 |
These Line Length Guides are based on current production boats, all lengths stated here are not guaranteed to be correct for your particular setup. If you are not sure what you require please call or email us at Contact Us and we will help you identify or estimate the ideal length, diameter and type of line for your application.
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11 May 2008
25 Jun 2006
27 Dec 2006
03 Jun 2006
10 Oct 2005
20 Jul 2005
31 Dec 2004
31 Dec 2003
31 Dec 2002
31 Dec 2001
31 Dec 2000
01 Jul 2017
Governance Documents
04 Nov 2012
05 Jul 2017
Technical Documents
01 Jun 2011
01 Feb 2017
01 Jan 2013
28 Oct 2011
Class Rule Documents
31 Dec 2005
12 Dec 2012
31 Dec 2007
31 Dec 2008
31 Dec 2009
20 Sep 2012
04 Sep 2013
02 Oct 2014
01 Nov 2016
420 Class Development Presentation - November 2016 (low resolution)
17 Sep 2015
Development
01 Sep 2015
25 Jul 2015
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- Sailboat Guide
420 is a 13 ′ 9 ″ / 4.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Christian Maury and built by Rondar Raceboats, Fountaine Pajot, Snapir Sailing Craft Ltd., MacKay Boats Ltd., Lanaverre, Johnson Boat Works, Far East Boat Co., Whitecap Composites, Xtreme Sailing Products, and Nautivela starting in 1959.
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
One of the most successful sailing dinghies ever. (Only the SUNFISH or LASER can be considered in the same league.) Originally designed and built by Lanaverre of France. (They built 32,000 according to one source.) Licenses were later granted to other builders around the world. In 1996, the International Class agreed to amend the deck layout. 1 Trapeze permitted. Spinnaker: 97 sq.ft. There is a ‘Club’ version of heavier construction and slightly different dimensions.
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Pre-Cut Line: 420 Jib Sheet (25 Ft)
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Description
Jib sheet for the 420 sailboat, pre cut from a druable and low stretch 9mm Alpha Kmix line for easy upgrade or replacement. A great choice for training and racing applications.
- Line: 9mm Alpha Kmix
- Length: 25 feet
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Prop 65 Warning
Related Products
Pre-Cut Line: 420 Jib Halyard (Tail) (16 Ft)
Pre-Cut Line: 420 Foreguy (8 Ft)
Pre-Cut Line: 420 Mainsheet (30 Ft)
Pre-Cut Line: RS Feva Jib Sheet (19 Ft)
Pre-Cut Line: Hobie Wave Jib Sheet (27 Ft)
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IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
Rigging Manual Rev. Rigging Manual Club 420 Class. Performance sailcraft 2000 Inc 2555 Dollard Lasalle, Quebec, H8N 3A9 Tel: 514 363 5050 eMail: info @ps2000.ca Website: www.ps2000.ca. Mast set up. Remove the pole and unwrap the spreaders. Mount them in spreader bracket with the thick side of the airfoil facing forward.
The Club 420 sailboat is ideal for yacht clubs and institutional racing programs that want a larger fiberglass boat than the FJ. West Coast Sailing has all the resources you need to rig, find replacement parts, and enjoy sailing the Club 420. Shop Club 420 Parts. Club 420 Photos (Link) Club 420 Line Lengths:
Ullman Sails 420 Racing Guide - V2.0 2 of 4 Tuning the Rig Wind Strength 0-6 7-11 12-15 16-19 20+ Mast Foot Position* 42cm 42cm 43cm 43.5cm 44cm Shroud Tension* 28 30 30 29 29 Spreaders length 46-4846-48 46-48 46-48 46-48 46-48 Pre-Bend 3.5cm 3cm 3cm 3cm 3cm Mast Rake 609cm/120cm 607cm/118cm 605cm/116cm 602cm/112cm 597cm/107cm
This manual contains a pictorial anatomy of the International 420 dinghy, and explains how the boat can be rigged. It is based primarily on my own dinghy and it's particular fit out. Individual boats will differ slightly in a number of areas, where there is scope for rigging variation within the class rules. The author makes no claim that the ...
University of Georgia Sailing Chalk Talk 12: How to Rig a C420Welcome to our video series! Our growth has been exponential and in efforts to reach as many pe...
420 Technical Documentation. There is a range of Technical documentation which you will either need or should be aware of whether you are a sailor, coach, team leader, event organizer or involved in 420 racing. Click Here for more information. A sketch of the new bridle arrangement, from the chairman of the technical committee.
Club 420 Association July 15 Statement on Non-Conforming Equipment. Posted on July 15, 2019 . IMPORTANT UPDATE. Posted on July 09, 2019 . Clarification and update to Class Rule C.7.8. Posted on July 07, 2019 . About the Changes to the C420 Class Rules. ... Website by SAILING DIRECTOR ...
A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls. BN = SA^0.5/(Disp. in pounds)^.333
420 Rigging Guide. Go To: Sailing - Rigging Guides Posted on 14 March 2009 19:26. A smaller version of the olympic 470 class, the 420 was formerly a youth development class (i.e. young people trained up in the 420 before moving onto olympic class boats), the 420 has a good class following, and is a good introduction to performance boats.
2013 International 420 Class Rules 3 PART I - ADMINISTRATION Section A - GENERAL A.1 GENERAL INFORMATION A.1.1 The International 420 class rules are closed class rules. A.1.2 The 420 is a one-design class. The intention of these rules is to ensure that the boats are as alike as possible in all respects affecting performance, in order that crews may ...
The 420 is an established worldwide performance two-person trapeze and spinnaker racing dinghy which holds status as a World Sailing International Class. There are 56,000 boats which have been built worldwide. This popular dinghy is sailed at school, club, open, national and international levels. There are many second hand boats available ...
The Basic C420 Rigging Guide. by Jim Young. (UPDATED early 2018 - this guide was originally written for the Performance C420, built by Perfomance Catamarans (NACRA), in 2004. The mold for that boat was purchased by the then-new Zim Sailing in late 2009. Zim has made a few rigging updates and hardware changes over the years since, but all of the ...
LaserPerformance Club 420 Line Guide. These Line Length Guides are based on current production boats, all lengths stated here are not guaranteed to be correct for your particular setup. If you are not sure what you require please call or email us at [email protected] and we will help you identify or estimate the ideal length, diameter and ...
the boat with a line or wire lanyard. Section C Conditions for Racing Crew C.3.0 No boat is permitted to sail in any Class Association event unless all crew are current members of the Club 420 Class Association. C.3.1 No sailor shall be above the age of 22 in the calendar year of the Club 420 Class Association regatta they wish to compete.
The International 420 Dinghy is a sailing dinghy popular for racing and teaching. The hull is fiberglass with internal buoyancy tanks. The 420 has a bermuda rig, spinnaker and trapeze.It has a large sail-area-to-weight ratio, and is designed to plane easily. The 420 is an International class recognised by World Sailing.The name refers to the boat's length of 420 centimetres (4.2 m; 13 ft 9 in).
420 Class: Club Versus Collegiate By Airwaves writer Tyler Colvin As one of the most highly utilized youth training boats in North America, the 420 was designed in the mid 20 th century as a stepping stone for the Olympic 470 class (www.usi420.org). Since its introduction into the youth sailing community, two popular variations on the design have risen to the forefront of modern junior sailing.
2022 International 420 Class Extraordinary General Assembly - Minutes. Download.
420 is a 13′ 9″ / 4.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Christian Maury and built by Rondar Raceboats, Fountaine Pajot, Snapir Sailing Craft Ltd., MacKay Boats Ltd., Lanaverre, Johnson Boat Works, Far East Boat Co., Whitecap Composites, Xtreme Sailing Products, and Nautivela starting in 1959.
You can also reach us at [email protected] or by calling 503-285-5536 ext2. Contact us about RACE and PRO model Zim C420s! Construction. Toughened resin and plexus bond for superior strength and durability. Colored gelcoat racing stripes on aft end of cockpit or traditional grey deck.
2017 International 420 Class Rules V2 3 PART I - ADMINISTRATION Section A - GENERAL A.1 GENERAL INFORMATION A.1.1 The International 420 class rules are closed class rules. A.1.2 The 420 is a one-design class. The intention of these rules is to ensure that the boats are as alike as possible in all respects affecting performance, in order that crews may
Vanguard Sailboats Guide to Tuning The New C420 Sails. In the spring of 2003, the Club 420 Class sails were redesigned to provide a better competitive and useful lifespan. Now that several events have been sailed using the new sail design, it is clear that the new sails will provide unprecedented durability as well as excellent performance.
Mainsheet line for 420 sailboats pre cut from a high performance Alpha Kmix line to a recommended length of 30 feet. Perfect for training and racing! Line: 9mm Alpha Kmix Length: 30 feet Pre-Cut Line: RS Feva Jib Sheet (19 Ft) West Coast Sailing $12.50. RS Feva Jib Sheet (19 Ft) Kingfisher - Evo Sheet - 6mm (Blue/Black) - 1/4in ...
Island Packet 420. The Island Packet 420 is the latest generation of Island Packet designs, and embodies a host of proven design and construction features that have evolved over years of boatbuilding experience and via feedback of thousands of owners. Representing a significant evolution from earlier models in this size range, the IP420 ...