hr 25 sailboat

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Hr 25 hinterhoeller

The hr 25 hinterhoeller is a 25.08ft fractional sloop designed by george hinterhoeller and built in fiberglass by hinterhoeller yachts ltd. since 1969..

The Hr 25 hinterhoeller is a light sailboat which is a very high performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat.

Hr 25 hinterhoeller for sale elsewhere on the web:

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HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER). Built by Hinterhoeller Yachts Ltd. and designed by George Hinterhoeller, the boat was first built in 1969. It has a hull type of Fin w/transom hung rudder and LOA is 7.64. Its sail area/displacement ratio 23.93. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, contributions, who designed the hr-25 (hinterhoeller).

HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) was designed by George Hinterhoeller.

Who builds HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER)?

HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) is built by Hinterhoeller Yachts Ltd..

When was HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) first built?

HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) was first built in 1969.

How long is HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER)?

HR-25 (HINTERHOELLER) is 6.04 m in length.

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Hinterhoeller HR25

• Sailing Boats, Yachts & Vessels
• Hinterhoeller

Hinterhoeller HR-25

The Hinterhoeller HR-25 is a compact sailboat known for its simplicity, ease of handling, and affordability. This sailboat is designed for sailors who are looking for a small and manageable vessel for day sailing and weekend getaways.

The HR-25 features a fiberglass hull and a comfortable cockpit. Its interior provides basic amenities for short trips, including a cabin with sleeping space and a compact galley. Whether you're new to sailing or seeking a small cruiser for relaxed outings, the HR-25 offers an accessible option for sailing enthusiasts.

Key Features

• Compact sailboat designed for simplicity and ease of handling
• Fiberglass hull for durability and low maintenance
• Comfortable cockpit for small crews or solo sailing
• Basic interior amenities for day sailing and short trips
• Affordable option for entry-level sailors
• Easy to single-hand or sail with a small crew
• Low maintenance requirements
• Limited interior space and amenities for longer voyages
• Not suitable for extended cruising or offshore passages

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the length of the hinterhoeller hr-25.

The Hinterhoeller HR-25 has a length of approximately 25 feet.

Is it suitable for overnight trips?

While it has a cabin for sleeping, the HR-25 is better suited for day sailing and short weekend getaways rather than extended overnight trips.

How many passengers can it accommodate?

The Hinterhoeller HR-25 typically accommodates a small crew or a couple, with space for a few passengers in the cockpit.

Is it easy to trailer and launch?

Yes, the HR-25 is designed to be easily trailerable and launched, making it convenient for sailors who want to explore different sailing locations.

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Did you know?

The Hinterhoeller HR-25 is often chosen by novice sailors and those looking for a budget-friendly way to enter the world of sailing.

This small sailboat is known for its simplicity and ease of use, making it a great option for beginners to learn the ropes of sailing.

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• Sailboat Reviews

Remarkably roomy for such a small boat, the 25 is well finishedand offers enough performance for racing.

Just a few years ago, the prospective buyer of a 25′ sailboat knew that some serious compromises awaited him. His 25-footer would probably have little more than sitting headroom, might have four shelves that could reasonably be called berths, and probably had a head stowed under the forward berth. The galley? With luck, a two-burner alcohol stove, maybe a sink, and a water tank holding ten gallons.

Auxiliary power? Usually a 6 hp outboard hanging off the stern or in a well in the lazarette.

With today’s economy, more and more people who once might have considered a 30-footer are downscaling their size expectations to something more realistic, perhaps a 25- or 27-footer. While they may downgrade their expectations in terms of the length of their boats, they have not downgraded their expectations in terms of the size boat they want. This is not the contradiction it may seem. The fact is that there are a number of boats less than 27′ in overall length that offer room and features akin to those offered in older 30′ boats.

For better or worse, economic reality has forced many of us to downsize our boat expectations in much the way we downsized our automobile expectations.

Then came a new generation of small cruising auxiliaries. The modern 25′ “family” sailboat has 6′ headroom, berths for a family of five—if privacy isn’t a high priority—enclosed head, and perhaps an inboard diesel engine. A regular miniature yacht.

The Ericson 25+ is a good example. The proof of the popularity of this concept shows in the numbers. Over 660 units were built in the first three years after the Ericson 25+ was introduced in late 1978.

Designer Bruce King had a long and successful relationship with Ericson Yachts, starting with the Ericson 23, 30, 32, and 41 of the late 1960s. He has not been exclusively an Ericson “house” designer—witness the magnificent Herreshoff-inspired 90′ ketch Whitehawk to his design—but the vast majority of Ericson boats came from his board.

Bruce King and Ericson found a formula not unlike that of Bill Shaw and Pearson: build a wide range of boats of similar type in two to three foot increments, develop customer loyalty, and watch the customers move up through the ranks. Keep the really popular models, such as the Pearson 35 or the Ericson 35, and bring out other models every few years to catch the latest trend. That formula worked whether you were on the East Coast or the West, and like Pearson, Ericson had the formula down pat.

With the exception of a few forays into the cruising market with the clipper-bowed Cruising 31 and the Cruising 38 (later to be called Independence), the Ericson formula produced a well finished cruiserracer with good sailing characteristics. The Ericson 25+ was part of this successful formula.

Construction

The hull of the Ericson 25+ is a solid hand layup. A molded fiberglass body pan is glassed to the inside of the hull, functioning as the base for much of the interior furniture and adding a certain amount of rigidity to the hull. The deck, cockpit, and cabin trunk molding is balsa cored, with plywood replacing the balsa in high stress areas such as under the deck-stepped mast and where deck hardware is mounted.

Exterior glasswork is of good quality, with little roving printthrough, Gelcoat work is good.

The hull-to-deck joint depends on a secondary chemical bond. Both the hull and deck have an external molded flange. Glass-reinforced polyester resin is used as a bedding compound between these flanges. The inside of this joint is then lapped with four layers of fiberglass mat and cloth. This joint is covered on the outside by a plastic extrusion with a soft plastic insert which functions as a rub rail. We prefer a mechanically fastened hull-to-deck joint, because the strength of secondary chemical bonds is very difficult to evaluate.

The deck of the 25+ has a remarkably solid feel thanks to its cored construction. Neither the deck, cockpit, nor cabin top had any of the sponginess frequently associated with small boats.

Deck hardware of the 25+ is well mounted. Stanchions, pulpits, cleats, and winches have adequate aluminum bearing plates. The tiller head is a substantial chrome-plated bronze casting, The transom is plywood cored, greatly adding to its rigidity.

The mast of the 25+ is a black, deck-stepped extrusion. The stainless steel mast step looks surprisingly fragile. Because the mast is designed to be owner-stepped if desired, the forward lower half of the base of the mast is cut away to allow the mast to pivot forward for lowering. We doubt if there are many owners who will step their own masts. The design of the mast step to facilitate raising and lowering has greatly reduced the bearing surface of the heel of the mast.

In contrast to the mast step, the shroud chainplates are of surprisingly heavy construction. The 25+ utilizes Navtec chainplates, shroud terminals, and turnbuckles. Chainplates are strongly tied to the hull.

All through hull fittings below the waterline have Zytel valves, a reinforced plastic. Most have double-clamped hoses, but the icebox drain hose has a single clamp. Although modern plastics are strong, we suggest that you carefully inventory through hull fittings, as they are a major culprit in many sinkings of otherwise undamaged boats. Plastic valves may be immune to electrolysis, but they cannot be forgotten any more than bronze seacocks can be ignored.

Handling Under Sail

Despite the chubbiness of the 25+, owners report that she is a fast boat under sail. There are a number of features that contribute to this speed, She has minimum wetted surface, despite a displacement that is average for her overall length, though fairly light for a waterline length of almost 22′.

The Ericson 25+, 28+, and 30+ all feature Bruce King’s trademark, the “delta” fin keel. King states that this keel form has very low induced drag, and the 25’s performance reinforces his belief. The optional shoal draft keel reduces draft a foot, reduces lateral plane, and no doubt reduces windward ability, Unless you are bound and determined to have a boat drawing under four feet, by all means get the deeper draft version.

The rig of the 25+ is a high aspect ratio 7/8 sloop rig. The mainsail hoist of 31.5′ is unusual for a 25′ boat. In light air, tall rigs are usually faster, and we would expect the boat’s best point of sail to be upwind in light air. Since a great deal of the sailing in the world seems to be upwind in light air, this approach to the rig is a rational one.

With the addition of a backstay adjuster—easy because of the split backstay—it is possible to induce a reasonable amount of mast bend to control sail shape. A full width mainsheet traveler mounted on the cockpit bridgedeck greatly enhances mainsail control.

Shroud chainplates are set well inboard, allowing narrow headsail sheeting angles. The genoa track is also located inboard, almost against the cabin side.

There is no main boom topping lift, We think this is pretty indefensible on a cruising boat, and despite the additional windage, a topping lift is greatly to be desired on a racing boat. Without a topping lift, reefing becomes a real exercise in agility. Dropping the mainsail is greatly complicated, especially when cruising shorthanded. Should the main halyard break when sailing close hauled, the main boom could brain anyone sitting on the leeward side of the cockpit.

Two-speed Barient headsail sheet winches were standard in later boats. There is room on the cockpit coamings both for the addition of secondary winches for spinnaker handling and the replacement of the standard winches with larger ones. A single halyard winch is mounted on the mast, There is no main halyard winch. We would choose the optional aftleading halyards to facilitate shorthanded cruising.

The 25+ should sail with almost any other production cruiser-racer of her size. Her wide beam and deep draft should offset the additional heeling moment of the tall rig. Like all wide modern boats she should be sailed on her feet. Get the crew weight out on the weather rail in a breeze, and she should carry sail well.

Handling Under Power

There were probably more power options for the 25+ than any similar-sized boat on the market. They included: outboard power, OMC gas saildrive, Volvo diesel saildrive, and Yanmar diesel inboard.

The 25+ is small enough to be driven fairly well by a 10-hp outboard. There was about a $3,500 difference in equipping the boat with an outboard engine versus the diesel inboard. The choice depended largely on how the boat was to be used. Few boats of this size are used for long-distance cruising. For daysailing and racing, an outboard engine is more than adequate.

If extended coastal cruising is to be the boat’s primary activity, then one of the inboard options should be considered. Frankly, we have little love for saildrive installations. If you really want an inboard engine, the Yanmar single cylinder inboard diesel is the real choice. No matter which engine is in the boat, it is equipped with a 20-gallon aluminum fuel tank.

With a one-cylinder diesel engine, given a fourknot cruising speed and fuel consumption of about 1/4 gallon per hour, the range under power is almost 350 miles—a truly astounding range for a 25′ boat, That’s probably more range under power than the average boat is likely to need for an entire season.

Deck Layout

With shroud chainplates set well inboard, and a reasonably narrow cabin trunk, working on the deck of the 25+ is fairly easy. There is adequate room between the shrouds and the lifelines to walk outboard of the shrouds with ease.

There is a small foredeck anchor well, adequate for the stowage of a single Danforth and rode. There are no bow chocks, but there are two cleats located forward at the outboard edge of the deck.

Molded-in nonskid of a color contrasting to the primary deck color was standard on the Ericson. This relieves eyestrain in bright sunlight and reduces the basically austere external appearance of the boat.

The cockpit of the 25+ is comfortable. Coamings are angled outward rather than being vertical, allowing a more natural sitting posture. As in most tiller-steered boats, the sweep of the tiller occupies a large percentage of the cockpit volume. In port, the tiller swings up and out of the way, providing un-crowded seating for up to six adults.

A single cockpit scupper 1—1/ 2″ in diameter is recessed in a well at the back of the cockpit. The well allows water to drain on either tack. A stainless steel strainer over the scupper reduces its effective area by over 50%. Since the drain size is large enough to pass on through almost any debris that is likely to be found in the cockpit, we would remove the strainer for sailing. A single 1-1/2″ diameter scupper has more cross sectional area than two 1″ drains, and is less likely to clog.

There are two cockpit lockers. The starboard cockpit locker is a shallow pan suitable for storing small items such as winch handles and sail ties. At its after corner is a deeper bin which could make a handy icebox for cold drinks. The port locker is a large, deep affair which unfortunately suffers from the common failing of not being adequately separated from the under-cockpit area, A snap-in Dacron bag would convert this locker to reasonable sail stowage.

The companionway uses thick, well-made solid teak dropboards with proper step joints to prevent spray from working below, Unfortunately, the very strong taper to the companionway slides allows them to be removed by lifting less than an inch. For sailing in rough water, a positive means of securing these slides—a sliding bolt, for example—must be installed.

It is gratifying to see a real bridgedeck in a boat this size. Except for the strong taper to the companionway sides, this is one of the best designed cockpits we have seen in a small boat.

The amount of interior volume in the 25+ is truly remarkable. The boat easily has the headroom and elbow room of most older 30-footers.

The forepeak contains the usual V-berth with a filler to form a nominal double. We truly mean nominal. Two normal-sized people simply do not fit in the forward berth of the Ericson 25+. Consider it a large single instead, or a double for two children. Water and holding tanks occupy the space under the berth.

The 25+ has a genuine enclosed, standup head, an almost unheard of luxury in a boat this size. The head has an opening port for ventilation. There are two small lockers in the head, but both are largely occupied by plumbing hoses.

Opposite the head is a small hanging locker. This locker is fully lined with teak plywood, a nice finishing touch.

It is in the main cabin that the 25+ really shines. Headroom is an honest 6′. Two comfortable settee berths seat 6 in comfort, A fold-down drop-leaf table is big enough to serve 4, and is one of the sturdier tables of this type that we have seen.

The main cabin of the 25+ is well finished with a combination of off-white fiberglass and teak. This is a very successful decorating job, without so much teak as to turn the interior into a cave but with enough to give a well finished appearance. A ceiling of teak strips became standard later on in the production run, and the cabin trunk sides are veneered in teak. A teak and holly cabin sole came standard, with two access hatches to the bilge.

There is a real bilge, unusual in a boat of this size. The strainer for the cockpit-mounted Whale Gusher pump is accessible through a cabin sole hatch.

Under the settee on each side of the cabin there are storage bins. These make use of molded polyethylene drop-in liners, a most practical solution which recognizes the reality that under-seat storage is rarely, if ever, completely dry. An optional extension to the starboard settee converts it to a double berth, but at the expense of easy access to the storage bins underneath.

The galley is surprisingly complete for a 25′ boat. There is a well-insulated icebox of five cubic foot capacity. The insulation is exposed in the port cockpit locker, and will be vulnerable to damage from items stowed there. It could easily be sealed off with either plywood or fiberglass to protect it. The icebox lid is an uninsulated molding advertised as a removable serving tray. If it is used as a serving tray, then the icebox is uncovered, allowing the ice to melt. Whoever thought up that bright idea should go back to the drawing board or look around for some common sense.

For some reason, icebox lids are one of the poorest design features of most sailboats, It’s quite remarkable on boats with otherwise thoughtful design and construction to see poor icebox design. Perhaps there is collusion between the Union of Icebox Designers and the Association of Manufacturers of Ice to maximize the consumption of ice aboard sailboats.

There are storage lockers both above and below the icebox-stove counter. The stove is a recessed Kenyon two-burner alcohol unit with a cutting block cover, These stoves have the fuel fill located between the two burners, and we feel they are a poor choice for use aboard a boat. The burners must be absolutely cool before the fuel tank is filled to eliminate the possibility of explosion or fire.

It is not necessary to step on the galley counter when coming down the companionway. This is a real plus. Footprints on the counters have never appealed to us.

A human-sized quarterberth is a welcome feature. With adequate headroom over, it eliminates the coffinlike aura of so many small-boat quarterberths, and is without a doubt the roomiest, most comfortable berth on the boat.

With an outboard engine, the room under the cockpit that would normally house an inboard is given over to storage. The tiny one-cylinder Yanmar diesel would easily shoehorn into the same space.

Without a doubt, the interior of the Ericson 25+ is a real accomplishment, It is well finished, generally well designed, and remarkably roomy for a boat of this overall length. There is some miniaturization of components, such as the galley sink, head sink, and hanging locker. Nonetheless, she’s a big little boat, and would be truly comfortable for extended coastal cruising for a couple. That is something that can rarely be said for a 25′ boat.

Conclusions

Ericson came very close to achieving their goals in the 25+. She is about as much boat as can be crammed into this overall length.

An interesting option is an E-Z Loader trailer. With a beam of over 9′ and a weight of 5,000 pounds, the 25+ is no trailer sailer. It takes a large, powerful car or truck to tow a boat of this size, and the beam could present legal problems in some states. The trailer would be most useful for taking the boat home for winter storage, rather than frequent over-the-road transport.

Workmanship and finish detail are generally of good stock boat quality. Exposed joiner work is good. Fillet bonding varies from good to only fair, with glasswork generally good.

The Ericson 25+ is a good small cruiser for a young family, and offers enough sailing performance to be a reasonable choice for club racing.

Unlike many small cruiser-racers which concentrate on interior volume and forsake sailing ability, the 25+ really will sail. This means that the new sailor will not quickly outgrow her as he or she learns what makes a boat go fast. With good hardware such as Barient and Navtec and a fairly high degree of finish detail, it is easy to see why the boat fetches the prices it does.

For those used to less-expensive 25-footers, the cost will be a shock. It helps a little to think of her as a 28-footer with the stern cut off.

With an inboard diesel, a good light air rig, and lots of interior volume, she’s a good little cruising boat for a couple. A maximum boat for minimum length, she’s a modern solution to skyrocketing costs of sailing. At maximum price for her length when new, she’s not an example of “more for less,” but then, there’s no free lunch in the sailboat market. That’s for sure.

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Hunter 25 - 2005

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• Last update: 15th April 2020

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Hunter 25 - 2005's main dimensions, hunter 25 - 2005's rig and sails, hunter 25 - 2005's performances, hunter 25 - 2005's auxiliary engine, hunter 25 - 2005's accommodations and layout.

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Better Sailing

Best Sailboats Under 25 Feet

Love fishing, going out on open water, and love the gentle rocking of waves? Then, now is the time to think of investing in a sailboat. Sailboats are silent, eco-friendly, and a great mode of transportation for water lovers. In addition, you can choose smaller boats for family sailing excursions. 

Why Get a Sailboat Under 25 Feet?

Owning a sailboat can be amazing for those who like an adventure. Having a small sailboat for some weekend fun can be a big achievement for people who like boats, water, and adventurous outings. These sailboats are a great way to have fun on the water, but they can also often accommodate a couple or a small family for a weekend. Here are some reasons why owning a sailboat is not a bad idea:

• Eco-friendly : Sailboats use wind energy to sail on water. This makes these boats eco-friendly because it is safer for the environment. This keeps the water clean and the marine life safe from any pollutants. The sailboats are also less noisy. 
• Power : Modern sailboats are quite different from the older versions. These days, boats have engineer power included. Yes, most of the navigation is done manually using the sails. Still, the engine gives a certain boost to the performance. This makes sailing an easier task and also provides more enjoyment for people on board.
• Right-of-Way : When it comes to sailboats, they do not stop easily. That means they are required to have the right-of-way while on the water. You can easily pass through the water because nobody expects the sailboat to stop.
• Affordable:  Most sailboats in the 25-and-under feet category are affordable and much cheaper to have fun with than pretty much any other weekend vehicle. You do not have to worry about fuel expenses or anything like that and 
• Travel : A small sailboat under 25 feet can be a great way to go through the water for those who like to travel. Those who love sailing the water’s calmness and want to drift through less traffic should invest in a beautiful sailboat. Also, you can take your family with you without having to pay for separate tickets. 
• Variety : Lastly, you can choose from a large variety of boats. There are hundreds of types to pick from based on their size, features, and ability to sail in various water bodies. This gives you a choice based on your budget, making it a convenient mode of transportation without spending too much. 

Here Are The 5 Best Sailboats Under 25 Feet:

Catalina 22 sport.

Catalina 22 is a very popular choice for smaller sailboats that can be trailered easily. The Catalina 22 sport is the updated version that has some added features. This sailboat is perfect for the weekend sailing excursion. 

• Retractable keel made of lead
• Roller furling jib
• The fractional rig has the mainsail
• The large cabin that can sleep four people
• Engine, cloth cushions, and swim ladders are optional

>>Also Read:  Best Sailboats Under 100k

Montgomery 17

This is another smaller pocket sailboat. This sailboat can be trailered easily when required. It is a bit stout in looks, and the entire body is made of fiberglass. 

• The deck-stepped mast can be used with a 4-part tackle
• The boat is about 2 feet in depth
• Comes in 15 and 23-foot models
• Bunk beds in the cabin
• Has a portable toilet
• The boat has a lot of storage space
• DC power is optional

>>Also Read:  Best Small Sailboats To Sail Around The World

This is one of the best family vacation sailboats in a smaller size. It has an open transom cockpit, which is quite large and comfortable. This is a perfect two-person sailboat:

• Hull and deck have laminated fiberglass
• The centerboard can be lifted through hydraulics
• The deck is molded as nonskid
• Has a cuddy cabin with a bunk bed 
• Portable toilet screened ports and an optional electrical system 

>>Also Read: Best Small Sailboats Under 20 Feet

Norseboat 17.5

This is Canadian-made and is fit for both sailing and rowing. This is a comparatively recent addition to the sailboat market. It has an open cockpit that is enough for a two-man team.

• The rig has a curved raff type
• Two rowing stations
• Carbon fiber mast
• Fiberglass hull with ply interiors 
• 9-foot oars as well

>>Also Read: Best Small and Trailerable Sailboats

Small Sailboat Buying Guide

Finding the right sailboat is not child’s play. These are not some simple appliances for the kitchen. Sailboats are large vehicles with many components and specifications. That is why you should pay attention to the overall features and details regarding the sailboat before. Choosing the right sailboat is about the size and the power, navigation controls, space, deck, and durability. Here are a few things that should be paid attention to when picking a sailboat for traveling:

• Used or new : The first question you need to ask is whether to choose a new boat or a used one. New sailboats are expensive and are going to cost more than buying a used one. Also, the new ones will depreciate quickly as compared to the older boats. With new boats, you can take them to the water almost immediately. But with old ones, you will probably have to hire someone to make repairs and maybe upgrades. This will cost you some extra money too. It is always wiser to check the engine; the hull and deck should be dry and intact. Also, you should hire an experienced electrician to get the electric system upgraded. I am always a big believer in used sailboats, but you need to shop around for a good deal.
• Small or big : Another big question that needs to be answered is whether the boat should be small or big. You can easily find smaller-sized boats under 25 feet, but also lavish 40-foot sailboats. Yes, the bigger ones do look great and enticing. But the larger the boat, the larger the expenses on it. If you are new to sailboats, then buying a smaller one is the best option. It will be easier to learn. Another thing to keep in mind is that larger boats are not that safe and beginner-friendly. It requires a lot of practice to navigate a bigger boat.
• Ocean or lake : You should also consider where you will sail. Sailing on a calm lake is much different than sailing on an open ocean. Therefore, the boat choice should be decided based on that. You should ask whether you will sail inland or offshore. If you will sail on the ocean, then choose one sturdy and built for ocean sailing. Smaller sailboats work just fine if you plan to sail on a lake because they don’t need to be too bulky or fancy.
• Leisure or adventure : Some people are serious sailors who like to reach the bigger waves and have an adventure on rough ocean waters. Others like to go fishing with their family on a lake. Now, the choice of sailboat should be made, considering the purpose of the sailboat. You should also consider how many people will be on board before buying a boat. Users should pick a boat that will be comfortable for everyone, especially for longer vacations. 
• Cheap or expensive : Lastly, consider the cost of owning a sailboat. The sailboat cost is not just the buying price you need to pay. The cost of owning a sailboat will include all the upkeep, maintenance, and upgrading costs that the sailboat will incur over time. Always keep in mind the time you are planning to keep the sailboat. If the sailboat is for a shorter time, then investing too much is not smart. Also, you should be careful of the repair costs for older sailboats that need to be paid. 

Best Sailboats Under 25 Ft – Final Thoughts

Sailboats are a great way to have memorable vacations even when they are under 25 feet long. You can enjoy open waters, comfortable sailing, and some fun and quality family time on them. The best thing is that there are so many of them to choose from. Smaller sailboats are best for inland water sailing, weekend trips, and during holidays for a great fishing experience. Get ready to become a sailboat owner!

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Cruising Range For 25 HP Diesel Engine - 30' Sailb

• Thread starter Sam Farrar
• Start date Apr 2, 2006
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Just bought a '75 30' Hunter equipped with a 25 HP Universal Diesel. Getting ready to run it up the Chesapeake from the Northern Neck to our home marina in Deale, MD. Curious as to whay kind of range we might expect from the engine - fuel capacity is listed at 12.5 gallons. Weather forecast isn't very attractive so we might be motoring a bit. Any insight into fuel efficiency wold be most appreciated as this is our first diesel engine!Sam  

Pat McCartin

Rough estimate... 1 gph, or 12 to 15 hours. Depending on load amount of throtle, current and winds.pat McCartinInland Marine DieselBuford, Ga[email protected]  

0.5 GPH, Will Run All Day Should move the boat 6.5 knots for 25 hours until you run out of fuel which will be over 150 miles  

Currents and wind and miles travelled do not influence or affect burn rate. Fouled bottoms, props, currents and wind will influence how much distance you can cover on a given amount of fuel but the burn rate of the motor in GPH is pretty much a constant dependant on the size and condition of the engine. That is why in a boat we measure fuel consumption in hours instead of miles travelled. Sam, I would suggest you determine what is your specific burn rate which can be easily calculate by doing the following;1) Know the size of your fuel tank in gallons and fill it up.2) Maintain a record of your motoring time until you accumulate 10 hours. Determine how many gallons it took to fill the tank back up.3) Divide the number of Gallons needed to refill tank by the number of hours motored, in this case 10, and the result will be your average burn rate in GPH for the hours motored. The avearge will take into account RPM changes in normal motoring. There is no exact figure but the result of this exercise will give you a number you can work with. Example, .7 GPH burn for an 18 gallon tank will give you approx. 26 hrs of motoring on a single tankful. The distance to be travelled will depend on conditions, but you will know the engine will run for approximately 26 hours.In any instance when planning fuel requirements for any leg of a trip allow yourself at least a 20% reserve (in hours) in case you do run into strong currents and headwinds. If you cannot complete a leg without refueling or dipping into you reserve carry additional fuel in a jerry-can on deck.  

A five gallon Jerry can will make all this fuss un necessary. You will likely be able to sail at least some of the way. Re fuel when you stop for a pumpout or for the night if you don't anchor out. Edit to add: The wonder full thing about diesels is that they burn about 1 cupfull of fuel per hour per horse power. So depending on your system you could use 1 1/2 to 3 quarts per hour. Throttle back, a little go slower, burn less fuel, take longer to get there. Speed costs money.  

Stu Jackson

The M25 at cruising range will burn 0.4 to 0.5 gph. I have measured this for the past 7 3/4 years, since we do not have, nor desire, a working fuel gage.All comments about distance traveled and bottom condition are valid.Stu  

Run Hard Reducing RPM to save fuel is not a good thing to do. Diesels like to run at 80-85% of rated output. The money you save in fuel at lower RPM is not worth the shorter life of the engine that you will cause.Putting along at a low RPM will KILL your diesel and you will still use almost as much fuel because it will pass unburned through the exhaust. This unburned fuel also will coat the inside of the engine with hard enamaled carbon. That is what kills diesels.If your diesels max output is 3500 RPM you could start the engine run it up to 3000 and never turn it off. The engine would most likely run for 15,000-20,000 hours, no problem.If you run your diesel at 2000 RPM for 2-4 hour per month like most sailboaters do you will be luck to get 1000 hours on it before it needs a major rebuild.Run it hard, heat it up, It will be your friend.  

run hard?? A diesel squirts just enough fuel to make the engine run at a set RPM. If the engine can't achieve a given RPM it squirts fuel in excess making black soot and possibly overheating. I agree that an engine should be ran at a reasonable speed but hammering down with a dirty hull/prop or trying to go faster than hull speed probably puts the engine into an overload situation. Talking to a diesel mechanic he said that overload or unload can kill a diesel but that overload kills more quickly. We were specifically talking about too much prop. But a perfectly matched prop with a clean hull could be overpropped with a dirty hull.  

sailortonyb

Should be 1/2 to 2/3 Gal per hour I had a Catalina 30 with a 25 HP Universal Diesel. Depending on the speed, I used anywhere from 1/2 gph to 2/3 gph. This is running from 2/3 to almost full throttle. The Catalina 30 is a little heaver than the Hunter, but I dont think it will make much of a difference in consumption.If I were to take a wild guess , I would think that your engine will start sucking air and you will lose your prime when you get below about 3 1/2 gallons (depending on tank shape and roughness of the water). That will give you approx approx. 9 usable gallons. Then depending on throttle setting you should get approx. 13 to 18 hours at approx 5.5 to 6 knots for a distance of roughly 70 miles erring on the safe side. (again, depending on wind and seas).BTW, the difference in speed between 2/3 throttle and full throttle is barely 1/2 knot.  

Run Hard Tom is right. A diesel will only squirt as much fuel as is set by the trottle. When the trottle setting it too high and the engine is overloaded it will blow black soot. This is unburned fuel.When the trottle setting is too low it squirts less fuel but will not completely burn it.The difference between the too high setting and the too low setting is at the low setting the black soot from the unburned fuel is not forced out of the engine. Instead it coats everything (especially the valves)and dramatically shortens the life of the engine. I did not suggest overloading the engine. They are designed to be run at 80-85%. This is not considered overload for a diesel engine. If the engine cannot run at 80-85% of rated RPM without overloading and blowing black soot there is likely a problem with the prop size or pitch.  

Pretty wide estimates of range. Sorry but but my calculations do not have you faring much better. I was thinking that with all the range estimates that you are getting it may encourage you to calculate the burn rate for your boat. A burn rate of .5 to GHP sounds about right for your engine. You should have a capacity of 12 usable gallons in your tank. The gas in the filter, water separator and fuel line will protect against shut down from air due to any fuel splashing in the tank. So 24 hours would be a fair estimate for your total motoring range. If you calculate a safety reserve of 5 Hours or 2.5 gallon you are left with 19 hours of motoring. With a strong head wind and current at 2 knots of travel you could safely cover 38 nautical miles or with a following wind and current at 7 knots of travel you could cover 133 nautical miles. That is while maintaining a 20% reserve. These approximate figures with a safety factor built in by the reserve may serve you well until you record and develop your actual figures. Your ultimate range will be dictated by your knotmeter and is to be calculated underway, with the knowledge that you will have a safe 19 hours of motoring before refueling. Obviously sailing time will not reduce your hours but you wil have to deduct any time for motor sailing. Remember the speed of the boat and distance travelled has nothing to do with the burn rate and available motoring hours. An automobile engine can be considered to be mechanically attached to the road by its tires so fuel consumption can be reliably calculated by distance travelled but a boat or an airplane moving in a fluid enviroment can only calculate fuel consumption against time. We are not looking for absolute figures but for average, useful figures. Good luck on your trip and let us know what is your actual burn for that engine after a couple of hundred hours.  

Ross's suggestion Makes Sense Ross's suggestion makes the most sense. With so many variables a reserve of 5 gallons will give you roughly a 10 hour fudge factor.  Has the boat been used much recently??? If there is dirty old fuel in the tank it might clog up your filters. I'd check that out before getting underway. Be sure to have a few extra filters just in case stuff gets stirred up while you are underway. It is always nice to know that with a sailboat that if you run low on fuel that you can sail!!!! Be sure not to run out!!! I'd start motoring when I had about 1/4 of a tank and keep that for reserve if you must motor. That way you always have an option.  

Fuel consumption When I first read all of these comments on fuel consumption they made sense to me. The logic of Benny's comment on fuel burn being fairly constant in GPH was reasonable. But I happened to be looking at the Yanmar online manual for my engine and I noticed there was a graph preented for fuel consumption and it showed a significant change depending on the RPM. E.g. at 1800 RPM it was below .3 GPH; at 2400 RPM it was almost .5; and 3400 RPM it was 1.2. That suggests to me that it consumes like the gas engine in my car, more fuel at higher RPM. What am I missing?  

govenor A diesel's RPMs is set by a govenor that injects just enough fuel to maintain RPM.s if the load increases the engine slows a little and then injects more fuel to get back to the set RPM. Drag increases (ie load) the faster that you go so that your engine will require more fuel. Load is also increased when you are going into the wind so at the same RPM's you will burn more fuel into the wind than with the wind. Loading was what I was talking about when a boat starts to approach hull speed. It might take 10hp to approach hull speed but to go a little over hull speed migh take 50 hp and it increases exponentially so that it might take 150hp to go twice hull speed and this assumes that things don't break first. One of the few times that you go farther on a gallon of fuel by going faster is when you are going against a current. Obviously if you are going 1 kt against a 1 knot current you are standing still over the bottom. Under these conditions there would be a mathematically optimal speed to cover the most distance with a given amount of fuel. Then a given engine will also have an optimal RPM where it operates most efficently. Ideally the engine and prop and boat match up so that they all have about the same optimal speed. You can attach a fuel meter to your fuel line and with a GPS and calculator figure the best MPG under any given circumstance. They also sell computers that will calculate it for you. But most of us don't worry that much about MPG but at $2.50/gallon some of the big stinkpotts probably worry about it more than us sailboaters. There is a certin amount of fuel recycling in some diesels and I don't know how you would account for the bypass fuel.  

So TOM........ ......."what kind of range we might expect from the engine - fuel capacity is listed at 12.5 gallons"?  

Increase in fuel use at higher rpms TedYou're right, higher rpms will use more fuel. The thing to remember here, though, is that boats are NOT like cars. Usually, once out of the dock area, the boat is set on course and the engine pegged to cruising speed which is usually 2/3 to 3/4 of the max rpm. That's why, after almost 8 years, I can verify that my fuel use is 0.439 gallons per hour. Every time we fill up, I record the engine hours and fuel quantity, and include it on a spreadsheet that calculates the fuel per hour and hours per gallon. Sure it's varied on individual fill ups, but not by much. Cars, OTOH, keep changing speed (unless you do an incredible amount of freeway driving).Yes, dirty hulls and bad or incorrectly matched props can increase fuel consumption, but so can running at WOT forever. Current will NOT affect gallons per hour IF the engine is run at cruising speed, all it will do is decrease miles per hour over ground.Stu  

All diesel engines meter the fuel according to the horsepower demand. Most diesel engines are rated at about .285 liters per horsepower per hour. So if your fuel consumption rate is .439 gallons per hour you can work a precise conversion to know the exact horsepower demand is for the speed that you push the boat. Just because you have a 25 horsepower engine does not mean that you are using 25 horsepower. By my calculations in the example above the engine is putting out 5.8 horsepower. The conversion factor is3.785 liters per gallon approximately.  

Usable Fuel ? I know little to nothing about diesel engines except that if you suck in any air, you will have to prime the system.Is there a way to know how much you can run a tank down before air will get into the lines from bouncing around?This question is based on average to rough conditions and not on any really bad storm systems such as a Tropical depresion and up.Hopefully, I will never be caught in conditions that are THAT bad AND low on fuel at the same time, and NOOOOOOOOOOOO I cant go back to the dock if I'm 150 miles offshore.  

number of hours not number of miles Hi Bob; If you read all of the replies the bottom line is that you can predict the burn rate at a given rpm with a given boat under given conditions. But you can't predict a given number of miles per gallon under all conditions. With my Volvo MD11C at about 1700 rpms I burn about a quart an hour. Into a headwindor dirty hull a little more. tailwind clean hull and little less. I figure on about 200 miles for my 20 gallon tank. But I'd never put myself at risk by planning to motor 200 miles without a backup plan. On a sailboat the backup plan is to sail or carry extra fuel in a jerry can. If I knew that I'd have to motor up a canal etc I'd keep reserve fuel forthat purpose. And remember that slower usually means more MPG. I learned that flying my airplane. At WOT the burn rate in an airplane is about 50% more than at minimal throttle to maintain altitude. Cruising at 80 mph in a cessna 172 you can fly a lot longer than at 120 mph. Will you go farther??? Well that depends if you have a tailwind you travel a lot farther if you have a headwind you might not go as far. Of course a 50Kt wind is not uncommon at altitude. Once according to my math and GPS and speedometer I had a 70 knot tailwind as the gps said 170 knots and the speedo said 100 knots. The same thing happens but a lot slower in a boat. Trying to return into St Andrews bay one day the speedo said about 2 knots. Well sometimes I was moving toward a buoy in front of me and sometimes I was moving backward. The wind finally picked up and I got into the bay without starting the engine.  

Nice N Easy

Fuel burn A burn of approx. 1/2 gallon per hour is about normal for this engine, or almost any of this output. You will have to figure out distance between where you can get fuel, and go by that.As many have mentioned, you can't figure mpg, because of headwind, current etc. If you think you need five gallons of reserve, carry 10.  

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• Sailboat Guide

Hunter 25 is a 24 ′ 10 ″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by J. Robert Seidelmann and John Cherubini and built by Hunter Marine between 1972 and 1983.

• 1 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 2 / 18 Bokeelia, FL, US 1978 Hunter 25 $2,500 USD View
• 3 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 4 / 18 Bokeelia, FL, US 1978 Hunter 25 $2,500 USD View
• 5 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 6 / 18 Bokeelia, FL, US 1978 Hunter 25 $2,500 USD View
• 7 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 8 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 9 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 10 / 18 Bokeelia, FL, US 1978 Hunter 25 $2,500 USD View
• 11 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 12 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 13 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 14 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 15 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 16 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 17 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View
• 18 / 18 Daytona Beach, FL, US 1980 Hunter 25 $8,999 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

This is said to be the first sailboat built by Hunter Marine (USA). Shoal draft version: 2.92’/0.89m

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