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FORT Lauderdale

address : 617 SW 3rd Ave Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315

phone number: (954) 523-2815

Riviera Beach

address : 999 West 17th Street Unit #3 Riviera Beach, FL 33404

phone number: (561) 863-7100

Safe Harbor - Rybovich North Yard

address : 2101 Avenue C #11 & #12 Riviera Beach, FL 33404

phone number: 954-523-2815 x203 or 561-863-7100

MARINE ELECTRICAL PANELS AND SWITCHBOARDS

Custom-built marine switch panels.

Our commitment to quality is reflected in everything we manufacture. Every electrical panel, cable, and marine switchboard is assembled using state-of-the-art components by employees with decades of experience.

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MARINE SWITCHGEAR & POWER MANAGEMENT

Safe, simple, and scalable: Every Ward’s Marine Power Management system comes packed with advanced technologies that help your yacht instantly access the best power source for the task at hand.

MARINE ELECTRICAL PANEL PRODUCTION

We base our custom-designed electrical panels on your vessel’s specific electrical equipment and operational load requirements. Our inventory stocks all of the tools required to build your panel. Once complete, our ABYC-certified technicians can either install it or ship it to you pre-wired.

In need of a made-to-order marine switchboard? Our engraving department uses state-of-the-art CNC lasers and high-speed routers to cut, engrave and create custom electrical panels, marine switchboards, tags, and labels. We have the ability to work with materials as diverse as plastic, and aluminum, and stainless steel.

• Reverse Engraving for a smooth surface
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• Replicate Existing Panels
• Hundreds of Finishes
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WARD’S MARINE MANUFACTURED PRODUCTS

Ask about our Ward’s Marine Electric line of power adapters, converters, cables, transformers, & more!

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Marine Electrical Panel Frequently Asked Questions

What is a custom marine switchboard.

Over the last few decades, electrical systems on yachts and sport fish boats have become highly advanced and modernized.  While basic switch panels are suitable for electrical distribution on smaller boats, yachts require a more sophisticated power distribution center.  That is the purpose of a custom marine switchboard.  Marine switchboards act is the brain and nerve center for large boats.  They take the main power generated from the vessel’s engines and generators and distribute it safely and efficiently throughout the boat, ensuring that all devices onboard have the power they need to operate reliably.  They also play a key role in the yacht’s emergency power system, ensuring that vital electrical components such as navigation lights and communication devices can still operate in the event of a power outage.

How often should I update my boat's electrical panel?

Generally speaking, boat electrical systems should be updated if they are over 20 years old.  Electrical systems in yachts are exposed to a much harsher environment than your home or office building due to the constant movement and exposure to saltwater corrosion.  In terms of electrical panels, a well-built distribution system can last a long time.  However, as you add more and more electrical components to your yacht over time, that distribution panel should be upgraded to support the additional power load.  If your unsure whether you should update your boat’s electrical panel or opt for a custom marine switchboard, consider getting a marine survey done.  A knowledgeable surveyor can assess the entire electrical system on your yacht and identify any potential problems that should be addressed.

How do I know if my vessel needs a custom marine electrical panel?

Custom marine distribution panels and switchboards are typically needed for larger boats that operate on both A/C and D/C power.  This includes sport fish boats, yachts, ships, and naval vessels.  If a boat has a generator, then it will typically need some sort of switchboard to handle the power distribution.  If a yacht has two generators as part of an emergency power system, then it will also need a second emergency switchboard to take over in the event of a power interruption.  Also, any boat that has recently installed additional electrical components may need an upgraded custom electrical panel.  A marine surveyor will be able to help you determine if an upgraded or custom electrical panel is needed on your boat if your are unsure. 

What is marine switchboard automation?

Marine switchboard automation refers to automation of certain electrical applications on large vessels.  There are several types of marine switchboard automations that could be advantageous to owners and operators of large boats, including:

Generator Automation

Many large vessels are equipped with two generators, one serving as the main power source for the boat’s electrical system and one on standby as a backup in case the first one fails.  With generator automation, a PLC (Programmable Logic Controller) can be installed to balance the power load between the two generators if one is at or near capacity.  In the case that the electrical load onboard becomes too heavy for one generator, the switchboard can recognize this and turn on the second generator which will prevent overloading the primary generator.

Seamless Transfer to Shore Power

With shore power automation, a vessel can immediately and seamlessly transition to grid power without having to shut down or blackout the boat.  As soon as the shore power cable is plugged in, the vessel will automatically close the shore power circuit and switch off the generator simultaneously so there is no service interruption to the electronics onboard.

Blackout Recovery

In some ports, shore power can be shoddy and unreliable.  In the case when there is a service interruption or low voltage from the grid power source, the switchboard can recognize this and automatically turn the generator on so there is no interruption in power onboard the vessel.  When the grid power is restored, the switchboard automation will recognize this, shut down the generator and switch back to shore power simultaneously.

Does Ward's offer custom marine electrical panels outside of Florida?

Yes, our marine electrical engineers can design and build your marine electrical panel and ship it to you pre-wired and ready to install no matter where you are, including outside of the US.  Need help installing your custom switchboard on your boat? We will send out one of our expert marine technicians to install the custom switchboard anywhere you need.  It’s one of the many reasons why Ward’s is one of the most trusted marine electric companies around.  Call or fill out our contact form today to learn more!

Ward’s Marine Electric: Fort Lauderdale Marine Electrical Panels

Ward’s marine electric: riviera beach marine electrical panels.

address : 999 W 17th St # 3 Riviera Beach, FL 33404

hours of operation: Mon. – Fri. 8am – 4pm

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Marine Electrical Panels and Circuit Breakers

About Marine Electrical Panels & Circuit Breakers

Long lasting boat circuit breakers and paneling.

Having the right control panels for your boat's electrical system is half the battle. With our huge selection of switch panels, AC/DC distribution panels and circuit breaker panels, we've already fought the battle for you. Quality and dependability are genuine in marine electrical systems and components by brands such as Blue Sea Systems, Seachoice, Seadog, Ancor, Paneltronics and BEP. Shop now for the electrical distribution component to best fit your boating needs.

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Victron Products

Electrical  Panels

Heritage Marine Electrical takes pride in creating custom solutions for your marine electrical system needs, including custom AC/DC panels, batteries, chargers, solar, inverters, system monitoring, and more. Heritage have been serving the marine industry for over twenty-five years, and is owned and operated by boaters, for boaters.

Our Bestsellers

Check out our office power system:.

MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 120V

5 Slot Electrical Panel

Victron Energy Victron Isolation Transformer 3600W 115/230V, ITR040362041

8 Slot Electrical Panel

Victron Energy MultiPlus 12/2000/80-50 120V, PMP122200100 / PMP122200102

As the service manager at billings diesel and marine service i have worked with heritage panel graphics for over 20 years.  we have generally used their electrical panels on new construction and most large refits.  their ability to provide custom, high quality panels in a timely manner and at a fair price has made them my first choice for electrical panels.  the panels look very nice and the quality is top notch., greg sanborn, service manager, billings diesel and marine service, testimonials, “this space is reserved for your testimonial.. we love to hear from our customers. we pride ourselves on taking great care of you and your marine electrical needs. please let us know how we are doing and your testimonial will be placed here”, tom & paul, hpg everett, thanks to heritage panel graphics for their work building two panels for us at rodgers marine electronics.  a good customer wished to have his ac/dc panels updated onboard his 48’ tollycraft. heritage worked with us over the phone and came up with a design that exactly fit the space we had available.  their design allowed for more ac/dc breakers, backlit labels, and a switching system for the boat’s twin 50 amp shore power inlets. great job, rodgers marine, tim jenkins  , portland, or.

Electrical Panels – Elite Series

Es-1 dc master panel.

• Analog DC volt and ammeter, back illuminated with dimmer
• 12 volt standard, 24 volt optional
• 4 battery bank test switch.
• DC master breaker (100 Amp standard; 50 or 75 amp optional)
• 22 branch circuit capacity, 20 installed standard; 3-5A, 5-10A, 6-15A, 6-20A or specify
• Size: 10″; W X 15″ H X 4″ D
• Weight: 8 lbs., (3.6 Kg.)

Click here for an ES-1 DC Master Panel order form

ES-6 DC Load Center

• Accommodates one analog meter. DC 0-50A ammeter standard or 12 or 24 volts optional
• Master breaker, single pole, 75 amp standard; 50 or 100 amp optional, single pole
• 10 branch circuit capacity, 8 installed standard: 1-5A, 2-10A, 4-15A, 1- 20A
• Size: 5.25″ W X 15″ H X 4″ D

Because of their exact height match and style compatibility, the panels below are ideal companions for expanding circuit capacity of the ES-1 or ES-5, or they may be used as stand-alone load centers.

Es-7 ac or dc accessory panel.

• AC (120/240V) or DC (12/24V) master breaker (double pole AC 50 amp* standard, 30 amp optional, or DC 100 single pole amp standard; 50 or 75 amp optional
• 16 branch circuit capacity, 12 installed standard: ES-7A: 2-10A, 5-15A, 5-20A ES-7D: 2-5A, 3-10A, 5-15A, 2-20A
• Size: 5.25″ W x 15″ H x 4″ D
• Weight: 7 lbs., (3.2 Kg.) * Note 50 amp master OK for use on 230 VAC line-to-line systems. For 230 VAC line-to-neutral systems 30 amp is maximum master breaker value.

Click here for an ES-7 AC or DC Accessory Panel order form

AC-DC Master Combined Control Panels

• Locating all AC and DC functions on one panel provides a vessel with a central load distribution and monitoring center.
• Complete metering of voltage and current on AC and DC systems. Back-lit analog meters
• AC master breaker(s) with reverse polarity warning light.
• Power “on” indicator lights on all circuits.
• Four battery bank voltage test switch
• Deluxe label set (LS-III) included, 206 functions
• 115 VAC standard/230 VAC optional 12 VDC standard/24 VDC optional

ES-3 Compact AC/DC Load Center

6 AC and 16 DC Breaker Capacity

Size :  13.7″ W X 10″ H X 4″ D

Click here for an ES-3 Elite Series Load Center order form

Large 3-1/2″ scale meters and an ample circuit breaker capacity makes this the panel of choice for boats in the 35′-45′ range.

8 AC and 20 DC Breaker Capacity

Size :  7″ W X 12″ H X 4″ D

Option: For vessels with an onboard generator, the panel may be fitted with a 7.5 or 15 kW ship-shore AC source selector switch. Specify ES-4SS option when ordering.

Click here for an ES-4 Elite Series Load Center order form

Has large DC circuit capacity and AC section including two load groups and a source selector switch for two shore power lines and a 15kW generator. Pre-heat and start-stop controls are standard. Additional system capacity can be obtained by incorporating model ES-6, ES-7 or ES-8.

20 AC and 24 DC Breaker Capacity

Size :  20″ W x 15″ H x 6″ D

Additional Specs Below

Click here for an ES-5 Elite Series Load Center order form.

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Electrical Panel Upgrade

Planning is key when carrying out a custom solution to this refit problem..

Editors note: Designing, installing, and wiring a new main circuit panel on a full-fledged cruising boat is an extremely challenging refit project. The writer is a professional engineer who made sure that his installation met or exceeded American Boat and Yacht Council Standard E-11. Failure to adhere to the standard could result in fire, injury, or death. We offer the following article, which outlines the steps involved in constructing a custom panel, as a rough guide. In our opinion, such a project should not be carried out without the consultation of an ABYC-certified electrician.

Built in 1984, Moonshuttle is a 41-foot Irwin ketch with a center cockpit. She has sailed up and down the Eastern seaboard several times. Over the years, the circuit breakers in Moonshuttles original electrical panel stopped working, and replacements were no longer in production.

The electrical panel is located under the center cockpit and above the engine compartment. Like almost all boats, this location came with size constraints, but it also had possibilities.

After some research, we realized that a purchased panel would be built better than anything I could construct in my home workshop. The plan was slow in developing, but it came together over three years. This involved documenting the existing panel, drawing up the dimensions of the location, defining the maximum dimension available, and then establishing what was needed on a new electrical panel.

The existing electrical panel had a birds nest of unlabeled wires, typical of older cruising boats. Adding to the identification issue, both the 12-volt DC and the 120-volt AC wires lacked the present-day color-code system (red and yellow for 12 volts DC and black and white for 120 volts AC), so they were all either black or white, making it hard to distinguish between DC and AC wires.

Step one was to list the 12-volt DC and the 120-volt AC circuit breakers on the original electrical panel, then make a second list for the new panel with spare circuit breakers. This included adding a 30-amp circuit breaker for a future generator, a transfer switch, and spare circuit breakers for future projects. The transfer switch would allow either a 120-volt AC, 30-amp generator or one 30-amp shore power source to feed both the port and starboard 120-volt AC busses.

The next step was to develop an electrical single-line drawing of the existing panel ,and then change it to include the upgrades needed for the new panel.

We found two reputable marine electrical panel vendors, Paneltronics and Blue Sea Systems, both of which have gotten good marks from Practical Sailor in the past. From the single-line drawing and a list of the AC and DC circuit breakers, we created a list of requirements and sent this out for quotes. Both vendors were excellent to work with, and each produced designs with similar cost structures using computer-aided design (CAD) software. A spreadsheet compared the individual pros and cons to help analyze the trade-offs. We noted that neither vendor had a transfer circuit breaker. The Paneltronics design came with hinges, allowing easy access for service, but it was too large and would not fit the same space as the old panel. The Blue Sea Systems panel design did not have hinges, but it fit. After some thought, we decided that the smaller Blue Sea panel could be mounted on a hinged wooden door that we could build.

After several design iterations with both vendors, we settled on using Blue Sea Systems. Blue Sea Systems worked with us in designing the panel but would not sell direct, so it was purchased through a local distributor. Once we placed the order, the panel took six weeks to manufacture and deliver. At the time, a 120-volt AC outlet was not available for the panel so a blank space was left for it. Blue Sea supplied the outlet a month later, and we added it during the assembly process.

Blue Sea also supplied a CAD drawing of the back of the panel that identified the wiring by color. This was very useful in creating a D size wiring diagram using Microsoft Visio software. The wiring diagram included terminal blocks, lugs, DC shunt, and wiring labels that followed the same arrangement pattern as the panel circuit breakers.

It was not possible to mount the new panel in the same location without resulting in a birds nest of wires crammed into a tight space. Instead, we decided to mount the new panel in a box that would extend out from the existing location and then use terminal blocks for connecting to the existing wiring.

We built a prototype mounting box to check the fit of components and the panel hinge. To save cost, the prototype box was made out of 3/8-inch interior plywood and mounted to a base that allowed clamping to a table for assembly. The prototype box was sized to house the battery charger, galvanic isolator, alternator charging diodes, and the 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC terminal buses.

When we were placing the components, we discovered that the existing battery charger failed to regulate properly. This, we realized, was probably why our house batteries had not lived up to our expectations.

The replacement battery charger was a little wider and needed more space. The finished box was made from -inch sign board, a high-quality plywood that is designed for exterior use but is less expensive than marine plywood. The box and hinged door were assembled using stainless-steel nails and water-resistant adhesive. Then, the box was covered with a Formica laminate that matched the boat laminate.

The Blue Sea design used the preexisting fuel and diesel-engine run time gauges, which were easily installed in the new panel. This ensured that the engines measured run time was not affected.

The auctioneering diode array (used to manage two or more DC inputs), battery charger, circuit breakers, galvanic isolator, and terminal boards were installed in the box.

To enable the panel door to swing with minimum stress, the interior wiring to the panel ran parallel with the hinge, so the wires would twist during opening and closing but not bend.

After the panel was wired, it was checked with an ohm meter to ensure there were not any opens or shorts.

The panel was then connected to a 120-volt AC outlet, and a 12-volt DC battery was used as a load for the battery charger. The DC shunt was connected on the 12-volt DC battery negative feed. When installed in the boat, the battery cables used No. 1 AWG cables, but much smaller wire was used for the bench test.

For easy mounting, routing holes were drilled in the back of the new electrical panel box, and a template was made from the routing holes. Using the template, routing holes were then drilled in Moonshuttle, where the new panel would mount.

When we removed the original electrical panel, we were sure to label each wire. The new panel was deeper than the existing one, so the wires in Moonshuttle were extended, color coded, and labeled again. The 12-volt DC wires were color-coded red for positive and yellow for negative, and the AC wires retained their black, white, and green colors when extended. The extra wire lengths were trimmed, coiled with tie-raps, and secured in the void behind panel location.

The completed new panel weighed 80 pounds, which was too much to lift into the boat without help. Therefore, lifting hooks were installed on the top of the panel box. The panel was lifted up to the weather deck using the main halyard with help from the crew at Fairview Marina in Pasadena, Md.

Once it was on the boat, we discovered a slight installation issue: The new panel did not fit! The height dimensions were measured on the port side, but the starboard side, which was slated for installation was 3/8-inch shorter. The problem was resolved with a liberal amount of liquid soap and a lot of pushing.

We also had to remove an old overhead cabin light to allow clearance to open the panel door, and we later replaced it with a low-profile LED lamp.

Once the new panel box was secured in place, we pulled the wires through the holes in the back of the box, labeled a third time, and wired up to the mating terminal blocks. We then replaced the battery cables and installed the DC shunt. After all of the wires were connected, we checked the unit again for opens and shorts. The 12-volt DC was applied using the boat batteries and the 12-volt DC loads were powered up. The 120-volt AC shore power was then applied to the panel, and we confirmed that the 120-volt AC loads were operational.

This was the end of a very long project, but once completed, it allowed for many more projects that were dependent upon electrical power and adequate fault protection.

• Blue Sea Systems
• Paneltronics

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What You Need To Know About Boat Solar Panels

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Sunshine and boats are a natural together, so why not use all that free energy? Here’s the lowdown on solar panel selection and installation

I first embraced the idea of solar power while up a pole (literally) in the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway replacing dead batteries. It was the early 1980s, and I was maintaining buoys, beacons, and other such Aids To Navigation (ATON) for the U.S. Coast Guard, replacing massive, nonrechargeable batteries with rechargeable solar-powered ones. The higher-ups said the solar rechargeables would last six years – twice as long as the one-shot batteries. As the deck-ape in charge of lugging all those batteries up and down the ladders, my back and I immediately appreciated the whole “free power from the sun” thing, a concept I continue to embrace.

The strategy behind s olar energy onboard is simple: A solar panel converts sunlight into electricity, after which wiring conducts it to your batteries for storage until needed. Solar panels are used to keep batteries or banks charged rather than to power equipment directly. This arrangement allows the panels to store generated power whenever produced, while providing a steady source of power to a piece of equipment even when the panel is producing no power.

While they do require an initial outlay, solar panels can easily pay for themselves in money saved and independence gained over their service life. They’re noiseless, have no moving parts, and they provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance. Solar panels also have the benefit of being modular, letting you start small and add more as your power requirements increase.

The benefits of solar

Almost any boat can benefit from solar power. Whether at a slip, mooring, or on a trailer, boats can keep their batteries topped off without the need for external power. You can also use solar power to supplement or even replace other onboard charging sources, reducing or eliminating the need to run engines or generators to keep batteries topped off (a wasteful practice that burns fuel while wearing down the costliest pieces of equipment onboard).

While underway, it’s a plus to be able to recharge a dead battery in an emergency – say, to operate a VHF radio or navigation gear. While dockside, solar panels keep batteries charged and vital systems (such as bilge pumps) up and running without the need for shore power.

Just about any boat can benefit from solar power, whether it’s to keep batteries topped off or supplement other onboard charging sources.

Mount solar panels where they are exposed to maximum sunlight but do not interfere with operation of the vessel. 

Bottom: Something as simple as the shadow of a line or shroud can reduce or halt output.

Types of panels

Solar panels contain photovoltaic cells – small silicon semiconductor devices that convert sunlight into electricity. Each cell generates between 0.45 and 0.5 volts, depending on exposure to direct sunlight. Cell size determines amperage, with a 3-inch cell producing roughly 2 amps, a 4-inch cell a little over 3 amps, and a 5-inch cell around 5 amps.

Construction-wise, the three main types of solar panels are monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and amorphous (or thin-film) technology.

Monocrystalline panels have been around the longest and remain the most popular. The panels are constructed of thin slices of crystal silicon (each cell is cut from a single crystal) housed in a rigid, aluminum frame and covered with tempered shatterproof glass. The panels have a uniform black, blue, or gray appearance and are generally quite rugged, although they can be cracked or broken if subjected to extreme abuse.

Monocrystalline panels have the longest service life of the three types. With a conversion efficiency of around 17%, they’re also the most efficient and have the highest electrical output per area, but they are also the most expensive.

Polycrystalline cells are sliced from a cast silicon block and have a shattered glass appearance. Built in much the same way as monocrystalline panels, they’re rectangular, giving the panel itself a tiled look. Their life span is similar to monocrystalline panels, and while their conversion efficiency is lower (by 14%), they’re also a bit less expensive.

Amorphous panels are made by placing a thin film of active silicon on a solid or flexible backing (such as stainless or aluminum sheeting) depending on whether the panel is to be rigid-framed and glass-fronted or flexible. Flexible amorphous panels, in which cells are sandwiched between rubber and polymer covers, are light and tough enough that you can walk on them and, in some cases, even roll them up for storage.

This type of solar panel is also better if shade is an issue. With crystalline panels, even the thin shadow of a rope or shroud across one cell can reduce or halt output of an entire module. Amorphous panels have “bypass” diodes that essentially turn off shaded cells and provide a current path around them. Some monocrystalline panels also have bypass diodes, but this feature comes at an increase in cost.

Amorphous panels are the least expensive of the three types, but their efficiency is also lower – around 8%, or roughly half that of a monocrystalline type. This lower output is somewhat mitigated in newer panels, however, which use three-layer construction. Each layer absorbs different colors of the solar spectrum, so the panel will deliver more power longer each day and during lower light conditions than the other two types.

The charge controller should be mounted below decks and as close to the battery as possible. 

Follow manufacturer instructions for wire connections.

Planning the system

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on knowing what you want the system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a single battery or supplement an overall vessel energy plan? Answering these questions up front will help determine the type, size, and number of panels required.

To understand the process better, let’s walk through the basic steps to determine power requirements and installation considerations for a single solar panel installation. While the example itself is simple, the steps are the same used to plan more complicated installations.

For our example, the goal is to install a solar panel to provide charging for a single 12-volt, 100-amp-hour wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel.

The first step is compiling a daily power consumption estimate to determine how much solar power is needed.

The daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly 1%, meaning our 100-amp-hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours just to maintain the status quo. The anchor light draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, and we’ll assume it operates 10 hours each night. Multiplying current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) generates a daily energy expense of 500 milliamps or .5 amps.

This means our solar panel must meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps – one amp of battery self-discharge rate plus .5 amps of power draw for the anchor light.

Next up is figuring out panel size and the best mounting location. For our example, let’s assume the panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt horizontally mounted panel should generate between 3- and 5-amp hours per day.

We’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge our 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with a minimum of 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts.

Keep in mind that’s the minimum needed, which may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome problems like cloudy days or inherent electrical resistance within the panel or installation components. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you’ll want to install a solar charge controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging.

Attempts to plan a system that tries to use the output of the panel and capacity of the battery to prevent overcharging (and avoid the installation of a charge controller) is false economy and should not be done. The system will never meet its full output potential and, worst case, can damage the battery due to overcharging.

A word on ‘charge controller confliction’

If your vessel has multiple charging sources, such as solar panels and a wind turbine, a crucial but often overlooked consideration is “charge controller confliction.” In short, this is an issue where the charge controller for your solar panel and the charge controller for your wind turbine are internally adjusted to the same maximum charge voltage set point. This means they are constantly fighting each other to be the dominant power source, which results in diminished overall charging output and performance. An in-depth article on this issue can be found at ­missioncriticalenergy.com (in the website footer, click “Superwind Turbine Manuals & Technical Bulletins.” Under the header “Charge Controllers,” select the document “Resolving Charge Controller Confliction”).

While this article addresses charge controller confliction at remote, off-grid sites, the information provided is also applicable to vessel installations. — F.L.

Location and mounting

Solar panels should be mounted in a location where they are exposed to the maximum amount of sunlight but do not interfere with operation of the vessel or the movement of passengers and crew. Solar panels will typically be either fixed or mounted on some type of movable bracket that allows you to actively point the panel toward the sun for maximum output. Both methods have their pros and cons. Fixed panels (which are normally mounted horizontally) don’t produce as much power as a panel that can be adjusted to face the sun. The downside is that adjustable panels must be aimed throughout the day to maximize their output.

Use good quality, marine-grade heat shrink connectors (top) and liquid electrical tape (right) to create airtight, waterproof seals and reduce corrosion.

Installation

After choosing and mounting your panel, it’s time to connect it. The first thing you need to determine is the size (gauge) of the wiring to be used. Multiply your panel’s rated amp output by 1.25 (which adds a 25% safety factor). Then measure the length of the entire wiring run, panel to battery, and multiply by 2. Once you have these two numbers, refer to the American Boat and Yacht Council’s (ABYC) 3% voltage-drop table for wire size. Ancor Products offers a handy wire calculator on its website ( ancorproducts.com/resources ).

Always use good quality marine grade connectors  and tinned, multi-stranded copper wire with vinyl sheathing. The wire will run from the solar panel to the charge controller first, then to the battery. Try to keep the wire run as short as possible, and if it transits an external deck or cabin house (it likely will), be sure to use an appropriate weatherproof deck fitting.

The charge controller should be mounted below decks and as close to the battery as possible. You’ll always want to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for connections, but in a typical installation you’ll connect the solar panel’s positive (red wire) lead to the charge controller’s positive input wire or terminal and the negative (black wire) lead to the charge controller’s negative input wire or terminal.

Next, connect the charge controller’s negative output to the battery negative terminal and the controller’s positive output to the battery’s positive terminal via an appropriately sized in-line fuse (or circuit breaker). ABYC recommends these be installed within 7 inches of connection to the battery or other point in the DC system. To reiterate, the installation of the charge controller can vary among models, so follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finally, ensure all connections are waterproof and secure any loose wire runs with wire ties and cable clamps for a neat installation. Then get ready to lean back and soak up some free sun.

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Frank Lanier

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Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor with more than 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s also an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. He can be reached via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” and website captfklanier.com.

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How to Wire a Boat Switch Panel

• By Lenny Rudow
• December 21, 2023

Making sure you wire a boat switch panel correctly is absolutely critical. Whether you’re talking about the livewells, lights or bilge pumps, if that switch panel isn’t proper, sooner or later something won’t work. Worse, improper wiring could even lead to a meltdown and potentially, a fire aboard the boat.

Before digging into the details, there are a few important items you’ll need to know regardless of the specifics of the job. First, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when it comes to wire gauge, fuse and/or breaker size, and other specifics. Most boats and marine accessories are built to American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards, which include wiring and switch-panel specifics. These should always be adhered to. We also need to note that all boats are a bit different, and there are often good reasons to make exceptions to the generalizations we’re making here or do things a bit differently.

Choosing a Switch Panel for a Boat

The panel you’ll need depends on the size of your boat and the number of systems it has. As a rule of thumb, always choose a panel that has several additional switches to the ones you need to wire up. That way, you can add more accessories down the road and will have the switches available for use. Naturally, the switch panel must be rated for marine use and if it will be exposed, waterproof.

You can choose between a number of switch styles, which generally includes rocker switches, toggle switches or push-buttons. Most are illuminated, but not all are, and illumination can be quite helpful so you can see what’s activated and what isn’t at a glance. You can also get a switch panel with breakers or one with fuses. Breaker panels tend to cost a bit more, but they’re far more convenient since they allow you to reset the switch without having to carry fuses and replace them when necessary. However, breakers will have a set number of amps as opposed to being able to change fuses for different sizes. Sometimes you’ll see panels with no breakers or fuses, but in that case, a separate fuse or breaker panel must be added.

Also consider how many multi-position switches you need. If you want your running and anchor lights on a single three-position rocker switch, for example, a regular two-position switch won’t do the job. You’ll need at least one three-position switch (for off, anchor and running) on the panel.

Making Connections to a Boat Switch Panel

You’ll need to attach either ring or spade connectors to the ends of the accessory wires. Either is fine, but never try to fake it by attaching a bare wire end to a terminal.

When attaching a connector to the wire it should always—always—be crimped. Soldering and crimping together is best, but soldering alone is never recommended on a boat. Boats are subject to too many vibrations when running through the waves, and over time connections made with solder alone will weaken and break. Ideally, the connections should then be protected with waterproof heat-shrink tubing. You can purchase heat-shrink tubes separately, but you can also purchase connectors with the tubing already installed.

Getting Power to the Panel

Begin by getting juice to the panel itself. Again, follow the manufacturer’s and/or ABYC recommendations for wire gauge. And be sure to use tinned-copper wires, which are the most corrosion-resistant.

Run the main power line (positive, red) to a battery switch or isolator, not to the battery itself. Otherwise, you’ll likely suffer from a constant draw that could leave you with a dead battery from one week to the next. Note: automatic bilge pumps are an exception to this rule, and should have a separate power line giving them a constant feed regardless of battery switch position, as well as the lead running to the panel for manual activation.

At this point, we’re ready to attach the negative line (black). However, just where and how you will do so can vary depending on the panel and the boat’s existing wiring. Some panels have a small integrated bus bar, while in other cases there will be a separate negative bus bar that provides a common ground. Either way, the negative line connects directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

With the power supply complete, you can begin wiring in each individual system or accessory to each individual switch. As you do so, be sure the wires are physically supported with cushioned clamps or at the very least tie-wraps, so they don’t swing and sway. Remember that any physical motion in the lines will be amplified over and over again every time the boat is subject to vibrations, and eventually, that motion will lead to failed connections.

When wiring the boat’s switch panel be sure to keep the wiring as neat as possible, eliminating excess wire as much as possible. Everything on a boat eventually needs to be serviced, including wires and connections, and the bigger the mess is the tougher it will be to identify and isolate specific wires and connections down the line.

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Maine panel votes against adopting stricter electric vehicle standards

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Maine environmental regulators decided Wednesday the state will not join a growing number of states adopting new standards designed to grow the use of electric vehicles.

The rules, which originated in California , would have required an increasing percentage of new light-duty vehicles to be zero emission vehicles every year. The new standards would have started with 51% in 2028 and grow to 82% by 2032.

The Maine Board of Environmental Protection’s vote on the proposal Wednesday had been anticipated for weeks. The proposal encountered a mixed reception in Maine, where some said it would speed up the already-growing adoption of electric vehicles and others warned it would be expensive and bad for rural residents.

Members of the board said the state will likely take up the subjects of electric vehicles and reducing transportation emissions in another form. State lawmakers were also considering a proposal to give legislators more control of car emissions rules.

Opponents of the defeated electric car proposal, including prominent state Republicans, described the move as wrong for the state’s economy and geography, and said it would heap costs onto consumers.

“I’ve talked with many of my nearly 8,400 constituents who would love to have efficient vehicles to drive in an effort to be more environmentally friendly but they just cannot afford them,” testified state Rep. Jack Ducharme, a Republican from Madison. “Mandating them either in the case of trucks or passenger vehicles will not change that dynamic.”

Environmental groups had rallied in support of the proposal. A dozen states have adopted the electric vehicle standards, and 17 states have adopted all or part of California’s low-emission and zero-emission vehicle regulations, according to the California Air Resources Board.

“Consumers in Maine are already rapidly adopting electric vehicles,” said Sarah Krame, staff attorney with Sierra Club Environmental Law Program, in testimony. “Demand is so strong that lack of supply has been a major constraint on Maine residents looking to purchase EVs, with waitlists several months long for certain models.”

Meanwhile, sales of electric vehicles have begun to slow. The Biden administration announced new emissions standards on Wednesday that could boost the industry.

Transportation is a major contributor to Maine’s greenhouse gas emissions, and Democratic Gov. Janet Mills has made tackling climate change a major piece of her tenure.

The state received hundreds of comments about the electric vehicle proposal in advance of Wednesday’s meeting. The Alliance for Automotive Innovation, a trade group that represents car manufacturers, testified in support of the proposal.

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EV Charging

Commercial evs, einride opens largest charging station for heavy-duty evs, powered by voltera.

Electric freight mobility specialist Einride has opened its first Smartcharger station in the US, launching as the largest operational charging site for heavy-duty EVs on the continent. The new station is strategically located in a busy freight corridor, providing electric truck drivers with 65 charging piles powered by Voltera.

Einride is a developer of all-electric trucks, fleet management software, and autonomous vehicles that has expanded well beyond its Swedish roots, especially in the US. Operating out of a second headquarters established in New York, we’ve seen Einride’s all-electric and autonomous heavy-duty vehicles navigate corridors via remote operators based in Texas and, most recently, operations in Selmer, Tennessee, as part of a partnership with GE Appliances .

During a Release Event streamed in November 2022, Einride shared an upgraded version of its Pod autonomous truck alongside plans for a new network of charging stations. At the time, we learned these Einride branded charging stations would be erected in Sweden and Los Angeles to begin.

Einride also intends to implement additional charging stations at strategic on-road locations in North America that are easily accessible to  fleets of electric trucks while also providing a relaxing lounge area for drivers to recharge while their vehicles do the same.

Today, Einride shared that construction of its first station in the US is now complete and operational, a process that took a mere 18 months from start to finish. Today’s milestone kicks off a new vision for heavy-duty freight that is expected to expand throughout the country.

Einride opens new EV charging station in California

Einride’s first Smartcharger Station in North America is now open in Lynwood, California, near the Ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach, which combine to receive 29% of all containerized international waterborne trade for the country.

The site was erected with the help of charging infrastructure developer Voltera, who installed 65 charging piles to deliver up to 200 electric truck charging sessions daily. This new Einride charging station was part of a recent $150 million investment by Voltera to expand the footprint of its commercial electric vehicle charging infrastructure, with plans to double its number of managed charging depots this year.

Einride says its new EV charging station will serve its connected fleet customers like Maersk while offering a robust site for future freight customers to recharge conveniently around Los Angeles County. Einride founder and CEO Robert Falck elaborated:

The launch of Einride’s first Smartcharger station in the U.S. marks a momentous stride in establishing digital, electric freight as an important enabler to a more resilient U.S. freight system. This facility will enable a key region to fast track to electric, given its proximity to the Port of LA, one of the world’s busiest container ports and a driver of the US economy

The Smartcharger station has been integrated with the company’s proprietary fleet management software, Einride Saga , offering fleet drivers real-time charging metrics such as charge status, remaining time, power output, and performance. All of which can be monitored from a driver lounge complete with “key amenities.”

According to Einride, additional charging stations are in the works on both coasts of the US, and construction will begin later this year. While the first Smartcharger Station is operational, Einride shared that it will not be officially open to the public until April but plans to hold a grand opening celebration to mark the milestone.

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Scooter Doll is a writer, designer and tech enthusiast born in Chicago and based on the West Coast. When he’s not offering the latest tech how tos or insights, he’s probably watching Chicago sports. Please send any tips or suggestions, or dog photos to him at [email protected]