catyak sailboat

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Anyone own a CatYak? Upsides? Downsides?

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Looking at picking up a CatYak for some fun on a lake and was wondering what people's experiences with them were.  

I have owned a CatYak since the late 70s. Grew up sailing it on a small lake as a teen. Took it out this summer, 30+ years later, still as good as new. Still have the original sail, replaced the trampoline in 1980 shortly after we bought it (used). Took care of the boat and sail. Always stored the dry sail indoors. Upside: fun little boat, stable, easy to sail, good swim platform, durable, ideal for 2 teens or 1 adult and teen or child. Downsides: small and slow. As an adult, I am considering buying a Hobie Getaway, but would not sale the CatYak - it's a perfect beginner sail boat for a teen.  

Katyak I have owned a Katyak for a few years now, and I love it. The thing I like about it most is its tubular frame construction, which allowed me to customize it. I added oars and even a 2hp outboard engine to mine in case the wind dies out. The simple construction also allows for easy repairs and maintenance. Its shallow draft is perfect for beaching or shallow water sailing. Regretably, I have not tested this Katyak's worthiness as a swimming platform, so I have no say about that. Unfortunately, the rigging on mine does not handle heavy winds well; the entire mast will bend dangerously leeward in about 20 knots of wind (when the sail is filled and under pressure). This is partially because it does not have any shrouds or spreaders. Also, it is hard to sail upwind (it produces little VMG), and it is nearly impossible to tack in light winds. (This is when I use an oar to help it tack.) If the winds are too heavy, I usually stow the sail on the side and then row or motor instead. With the sail stowed, the Katyak feels very seaworthy. (I have briefly tested it in 25-knot winds and 3-foot waves.) If the seas are rough enough, often a wave will find its way between the hulls and through the canvas (that I am sitting on) and soak my butt and legs. The katyak is very fast in rowing and motoring for its size. For rowing, it can reach speeds equivalent of a kayak (hence the term "Katyak"), and for motoring, it can step up onto a plane with only 1/3 throttle (though I don't dare to go anywhere above 1/2 throttle even with only 2hp; I am afraid the rear frame tube or one of its joints will fail.) DISCLAIMER: The Katyak was not originally intended for use with an outboard engine. If you decide to mount an engine on yours, it is at your own risk. The Katyak can safely hold one adult plus one child or light-weight teenager. I tested mine with two adults, and that is already pushing the limits a little bit. Luckily, I did so in calm weather, but it definitely did not feel as seaworthy with twice the load. I have also tested my Katyak with one adult plus one child, and that was just fine. I have towed my Katyak behind a yacht at speeds up to 8 knots, and I think it can handle tow speeds up to 10 or 12 knots (with empty weight, of course). The Katyak mounts easily (up-side-down) to the roof rack of my car. I reccomend using a roof rack that runs lengthswise along the car and using cross bars that can slide along the length of the roof rack; cars with the fixed roof rack cross bars are typically curved, not wide enough, and not high enough off the roof of the car. The Katyak likes to lie flat on a cross bar. I am able to load/unload it myself by balancing it on my head, though I strongly reccomend at least two people unloading it. Overall, it is a fun little boat. If you want a dinghy sailboat that is a little more practical than the Katyak, I reccomend the Walker Bay 8.  

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CatYak? Upsides? Downsides? I've had one for years. They are good in small lakes and very fast and easy to setup. The pontoons & platform are much more stable than the speedier beachcats,. I have the 2nd slowest sailboat on the lake I sail most commonly. It is so stable that even in significant wind conditions I'd have to act deliberately to tip it.It's easy to get on and off in the water since it doesn't tip over like a monohull or high performance cat so it works as a swim platform Within it's limitations, the boat is fairly capable. I have used it in the Atlantic off the coast of South Carolina sailing briefly with a pod of dolphins. This August I sailed it from Harbor Springs to Petoskey State Park, Lake Michigan. the boat's portability is excellent, it only weighs around 100 pounds. 2 people can easily grab each end and drop it into the water. It's possible to cartop but I bought an aluminum trailer kit which has worked very well. The load limit is 300 pounds, so suited for one or 2 people. FlyGuy's comments are accurate - stiff wind causes the mast to flex.  

Catyak ?????? Hi all I just recently got a catyak it was on trade for some work I had done I can't seem to find much info on it wondering if any one has one I could use some pics of the rigging I think I might be missing a part or two not sure Im wanting to try it out befor the end of summer if any one has some pics of the set up I would greatly appreciate it ty jason  

I too, am trying to find info on the catyak. who makes them? when were they made? are they still made?  

CatYaks in the US were made by Dayton Marine Products located in Detroit, Michigan, from roughly 1969 to sometime in the mid '70s. They made CatYaks and SportYaks (and sleds) among other things. Dayton Marine was sold to another company that did not continue the boat part of the business. You can still find CatYaks on eBay, Craiglist, etc. As long as the hulls are sound, most of the structure is basic materials, ie tubing, bolts, etc so not too hard to find alternatives. I've adapted parts from miscellaneous hardware (spring clips), bicycles (mast clamp bolt) and small Hobie cats (rudder/tiller parts). Sails and trampolines can be custom made or you can still find unused originals occasionally. If you use image search on Google you will find many pictures and a few old original brochures posted. Sorry, this board won't let me post links...  

Zengirl, found you a little more info. CatYak was designed by Frederick S. Ford, Jr. Dayton Marine Products was a division of Woodall Industries, subsidiary of Libbey-Owens-Ford.  

I owned one with an off color pontoon, turns out the seller was the original designer and this one was the prototype! A friend of the family explained that one side failed in testing with 650 lb load. They vacuum cast a new pontoon and filled the areas under the mounting plate with a sprayfoam like material for rigidity. The original lanteen sail works best hoisted as high as it can go and tied down to the lower cleat. Tension is key here. Now this friend had one refitted with a bermuda sail, newer mast and boom, and stays to the fronts of the pontoons. Now that one could really move! Id be happy to answer questions. Happy sailing!  

Catyak Assembly We just discovered a Catyak in an old shed on the beach property my parents owned for years. We cleaned it up and there was a new trampoline with it. It looks great. Even the sail is fine. We are quite excited to try it out...We just don't know how to assemble the sail...there may be some attachment pieces missing. I've scoured the internet for photos on how to attach it, but since none of us have ever even been on a sailboat, I haven't found any detailed enough. It seems as if the ropes are key. Any instructions/photos on how to set them up would greatly appreciated. Thanks, Taschia  

Hi! Has anyone found a source for replacement hulls/floats/pontoons? We have two Catyaks, but one is missing the hulls. Thinking about building hulls with marine plywood and fiberglass, but it would no longer be lightweight. Hulls are 9 feet long, no luck finding replacements online.  

I too would love to find at least one replacement hull. Hard to find any info on these Catyaks. If you hear of anything please share if you can. We've had ours for 30+ years. Haven't used it for about 15 of those years. One if the hulls has a big split. It's a fun little sailboat!  

I have 2 complete unsailable Catyaks, good mostly for parts. The sails have always been stored inside, however the rest has been outside. Both boats have failed where the frame is bolted to the hulls. One hull has completely broken off and the other 3 are still attached, but cracked. Perhaps someone with the correct molding skills will come up with replacements?? We can all hope. Both are for sale, I'm in Central Indiana.  

Are your sails for sale? I'd love a new one!  

[QUOTE = "patnewbalance, publicación: 2051678552, miembro: 525456"] ¡Hola! ¿Alguien ha encontrado una fuente de reemplazo de cascos / flotadores / pontones? Tenemos dos Catyaks, pero a uno le faltan los cascos. Pensando en construir cascos con madera contrachapada marina y fibra de vidrio, pero ya no sería liviano. Los cascos tienen 9 pies de largo, no hay suerte para encontrar reemplazos en línea. [/CITAR] QQue tal soy Gerardo y pues vivo en campeche y por ahí tengo 2 pontones en un estado de 9.5 de Buenos quizás se puedan enviar desde Mexico a donde los quieran mi whatsaap ±529995431760  

Loved mine. Light and easy to rig. Not a Hobie, but a whole lot easier to get in the water.  

I recently bought one at a donation store. I would like to know how to locate the HIN (hull identification number). I've already looked everywhere for the hulls and couldn't find it. Please if anyone knows and can help me  

What year? It may not have one.  

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Vintage Dayton Catyak Sailboat

1972 dayton catyak.

• Price: Contact seller
• Make: Dayton
• Model: catyak
• Type: sailboat
• Location: Smiths Station, Alabama, United States

Description

Dayton Catyak

Selling my beloved catyak,Ive had this lil boat for a whil, Ive taken it on many camping trips and hate to see it g, I just don't have time anymore

Id say for her age shes in pretty good conditio, The sail could use replacin, that's for sur, but has been working for me for quite some tim, Of all the hobies ive ha, as well as monohull, The catyak has been my go-to camping boat

Boat condition

Id say the boat is in good usable conditio, There is a crack in one of the hulls (see pic) that has been there for year, it has not gotten any larger or taken on any wate, and I'm 200 plus # and had wife and kid on board !,so I haven't messed with it .The tramp is new and there are two extra tramps include, One solid and one nette, All the rigging is fine (not much there, The sail is Tire, full of patches and tiny hole, It most surely could use replacin, but again has done fine for me .

Trailer condition

I went thru the trailer last year and replaced everythin, I pulled it camping and wanted to make sure it was top notch .

I hope I have covered everythin, but if not contact me and ill answer any question, Thank you for looking !!

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

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You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

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About John P.

One Man's Blog

Specialization is for Insects.

CatamaYak: How to Build a Kayak Catamaran

August 14, 2013 By John P.

We happen to own four identical kayaks, we bought the Equinox 10.4 kayaks at Costco, and we started working on ways to hack them to make them even better! First, I hacked a motor onto my kayak , and then I thought I’d give it a shot and see if we could build a catamaran out of a couple of em.

The CatamaYak Concept

When we go out on the water there is usually a group of us. Some are faster than others, and some just enjoy a leisurely time on the lake. We wanted to be able to turn a couple of kayaks into a floating relaxation station and give it a motor so that a couple of people could simply sit back and relax while still being able to tag along.

The CatamaYak needed to have a few important characteristics:

• be light and easy to assemble at the lake
• be extremely waterproof and not get slippery
• be durable enough to take a pounding from the waves
• be rigid enough to deal with the forces encountered

Given the design considerations I took a few measurements and drew up a quick sketch of the components and how I imagined they would fit together.

If you are going to design your own there are a few important things to keep in mind.

• The bow (nose) of the kayak is generally narrower than the stern (rear). So don’t just make the front and rear crossbeams the same length or it will look funny and not perform as well.
• You could substitute wood 2x4s for PVC in my design, but its not going to last as long and its going to flex and expand as it takes on water. Its also going to be a LOT heavier.
• If you intend to add a motor like I did you must make sure that the distance between the two kayaks in the center is sufficient for the motor to turn 360 degrees without the blades hitting the side of the watercraft.

The Kayak Catamaran Parts List

Everything I used for this experiment came from Lowe’s. I’m sure you could also find it at Home Depot or other home improvement stores.

• 3 – 10′ sections of 2″ PVC pipe
• 4 – 2″ PVC T sections
• 4 – 2″ PVC end caps
• PVC cleaner and cement
• 1 – 18″ x 72″ wood board
• 4 – 2″ stainless steel U bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 4 – 5″ stainless steel eye bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 1 – 8′ 2×4 (or a couple of 8″ scraps)
• 2 – 8″ 5/8×16 bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 4 – Ratcheting straps

I also needed a rubber mallet, wrenches, a drill, a set of drill bits, and a table saw. You could do without the table saw by having the store cut the wood for you.

Building the Kayak Catamaran

The first thing I did was set the two kayaks beside one another and lay the crossbeam PVC pipes on top of it. This allowed me to take measurements and make sure my design was roughly accurate.

It turns out that the exact finished dimensions worked perfectly for my kayaks and particular brand of trolling motor (Minn Kota 30 pound unit). See the design sketch above if you have Equinox 10.4 kayaks and want to exactly duplicate this build.

I then cut all the PVC pipes and dry fit the pieces. I used my table saw to cut the PVC, but you could use a hacksaw and do it by hand, or you could use a reciprocating saw or basically anthing with a blade long enough to go through 2″ of PVC. Its a very soft material so its easy to cut – but keep your cut very straight as you go. The pieces won’t fit properly if the cuts are all crooked.

Then it was time to attach the pieces. First, you must start with the rectangular center frame, and you have to be VERY careful when assembling this piece to make sure you get it extremely straight!

I carefully cleaned and cemented each fitting and lightly attached a T union to one end of the support frame. I then VERY QUICKLY laid it on the flat piece of wood to make sure the T’s were pointing straight. After a little adjusting I took a rubber mallet and pounded the T’s on as far as they would go.

You’ll know when the pieces are fully inserted because there is a little ridge in each connector or end cap that won’t let the pipe go any farther. So you don’t need to worry that you put it in too far. In fact, if you follow my design its extremely important that all PVC is assembled as tightly as possible for proper fit and structural integrity.

If done right you can look inside the T fitting and see there are no gaps and some of the cement is pretty much sealing all the way around the tube where they meet.

First glue up both end pieces, then attach the two long PVC supports to one end, and follow up by attaching the other end piece – which will require you to glue up two pipes at the same time. Work quickly as the PVC cement drys fast! And remember – HAMMER EVERYTHING TOGETHER WITH A RUBBER MALLET!

After that you’re in the home stretch. Time to glue on the cross beam pieces. These are the most critical joints so make sure they are very clean and you have plenty of cement. You don’t want these to break on the water! Also, notice again that in my design the front and rear are different lengths. Here is a photo showing just one side glued up.

Once you’ve finished connecting all the PVC joints and adding end caps, you can lay the frame back down on your kayaks and begin attaching the connecting hardware. First up, the wooden platform needs to be connected on top. This serves two purposes. First, it provides a lot of torsional rigidity. And secondly, it gives you a spot where you can put stuff!

I used 4 long eye bolts pointing upwards to connect the wood to my PVC frame by drilling down through the wood and directly through the center of each of the 4 T-connectors in the corners. By using the eye bolts it gives connection points in each of the 4 corners that can be used for lashing things to the top, or could even be used for lifting / hanging the platform.

You’re going to attach 4 eye bolts pointing downward from the end of each crossbeam. These are going to be used for connecting the ratcheting strap to hold the kayaks in place.

The other end of the strap mounting is a U bolt mounted directly on the platform. Make sure and leave enough room that the ratchet can be entirely on top when its mounted securely. This does a couple of things, but most importantly it allows you to ratchet it up a little while on the water if it loosens up, which it will do a bit when it gets wet. I’ve already proven out this point on the Lake, so don’t skip it.

You’re about done at this point! Now if you intend to mount a motor on it you need to add a wood block that will fit it. I accomplished this by cutting two 2×4″s down to 8″ wide. These were attached with several stainless steel screws and an L bracket (found near the fencing stuff in the lumber department) for some added rigidity. I wanted to make sure there was NO flex with the motor so all of the power translated to forward momentum instead of any wiggle in the mount.

At this point you should be done and ready to simply slip a ratcheting strap under each mounting point, front and rear, on both Kayaks and secure them tightly.

We took the double Kayak Catamaran out on the lake for the day and it performed FAR better than I ever expected! The little 30 pound Minn Kota trolling motor was able to EASILY push the watercraft! By the way, you need to really watch the video I did about the single Kayak motor mount in order to see how to wire it up and which battery to use, etc. But even with the little trolling motor battery I used we were out on the lake messing around with the motor in use for over an hour and only used 20% of the battery life.

Not only was this rig able to easily push and steer the CatamaYak, but we were able to even TOW both of the other Kayaks without any issue! Amazing.

A couple of last little things. You’ll see in all of the photos that the wood panel in the middle is exposed untreated wood. That’s because we bought some special textured extremely waterproof paint to cover it with, but I didn’t do it before the first trip out to the lake. We’ll be painting it for long term durability soon.

Finally, if you do this, you’re technically changing your kayak into a home built motor boat. And in Texas, and probably most states, you’re going to have to register it as a watercraft. It costs like $30 in Texas to do it, but be warned that if the lake police come by you could be ticketed for taking this on the water without registration. So make sure you’re covered so you don’t worry about it.

Oh, and be prepared for a LOT of attention on the water! Because no one has ever seen anything like this before so they’ll all want to be checking it out!

So, that’s it! I hope you guys enjoy the hack / build. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below and I’ll help as best I can. This is a project that you can build in just a couple of hours if you have the right tools, and the entire cost was around $100 including PVC, wood, bolts, paint, etc. So that’s a pretty good value!

John P. is a former CEO, former TV Show Host, and the Founder and Wizard behind Texas Metal Works . You can find him on Twitter , Facebook and LinkedIn . Feel free to send shoutouts, insults, and praise. Or Money. Money is good.

May 11, 2016 at 9:30 pm

This is awesome! I am with Robert on the straps..confused about the role of the U bolts. I thought the ratchet strap hooked back to the platform eye bolt. Please clarify. By the way John, why did you take yours apart?

May 12, 2016 at 10:32 am

I used the u-bolts on the platform so that the base of the ratchets could lay flat against the wood once everything was tightened up. This way when you’re on the water you can use one hand to ratchet it tighter if need be.

You may be able to use the same I look somewhere and put both ends of the ratchet on it. You just want to make sure that you have enough room for the straps to Route Around everything and still be accessible when you’re on the water. It could be fairly disastrous to have anything separate with your stuff on that Central platform. It would pretty much just think…

I disassembled mine because I wasn’t going to register it as a watercraft, and it takes up too much room in the garage for something I’m not using constantly. If we had a lake house I would have definitely left it hooked up. It was great! :-)

December 14, 2015 at 5:37 pm

This is something I have been wanting to do for a long time. Great instructions. One thing that isn’t clear to me is how the ratchet straps attach to the u-bolts. Could yo show a top view picture to make it easy to see? Thanks.

January 5, 2016 at 10:59 pm

Sorry Robert, I took it apart a while back so I can’t take a photo any more. But since the ratcheting straps have hooks on them, as long as you get them hooked into the eye bolt and just tighten them up, they’ll stay! :-)

April 10, 2015 at 10:53 am

Great modification! I have 2 identical Perception Sport Pescador 120 kayaks and this has definitely inspired me to build a similar setup. I also own a Hobie Adventure island and love the extra space gained from the trapoline sides between the kayak and the amas (just like your wooden platform has done). You could also add additional cargo space to the void formed between the wooden platform and the front of the two kayaks from a lightweight water repellent material. Great work, thanks for sharing!

July 14, 2014 at 9:27 am

I wanted to say thank you for posting this project. My son is handicapped and i had wanted to take him our on my kayaks and could not imagine how to make it safe for him to enjoy. This is perfect. We even got a thumbs up from the Vessel Assist Boat Crew on our Maiden Voyage. The stability is amazing even in Lake Washington with the chop and larger motorized vessels. Your measurements were spot on for our boats. High Five! Would love to share a pic. This has opened up a whole new world to a boy and his dog. Thank you!

July 23, 2014 at 11:30 pm

Yeah! I’m so happy to hear that this was helpful! :-)

August 15, 2013 at 8:33 am

That definitely seems easier than I thought.

August 14, 2013 at 2:40 pm

I was going to say if John built it a Catastrophe but it looks pretty good. Cali has large feet or John has small ones. :)

August 14, 2013 at 1:10 pm

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You could say Tyler caught the bug for sailing at young age and it's never really left him. If there is an opportunity to hit the water, he's there without hesitation. So it was only natural to form Get Wet Sailing, so he could talk about sailing all day every day. Drop him a line if you have any questions about a Hobie-he's our resident expert.

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Interesting, I do a lot of kayaking and have never seen a sailing kayak. We do lots of kayak fishing, not sure if these would be the best to fish off of.

But look like they could be a good time.

You are probably right. These wouldn’t be the best to fish from because these sailing kayaks can’t sit in one place for very long. They are always on the move. All the more reason to try one, they are adrenaline rushing boats with non-stop action. If you get to try one out, let us know what you think!

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