what is a gaff rigged sailboat

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What’s in a Rig? The Gaff Rig

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs , Sailboats

What’s in a Rig Series #6 – Gaff Rig

What’s a gaff rig? Well, first… what’s a gaff? A gaff is a spar, or a strong pole. A gaff rig employs a spar on the top of the sail and typically other sails can be set in conjunction with that mainsail with the gaff. Often, on the smaller, non tall ship, gaff rigs, there will be a small triangular sail that fits between the main and the mast like a puzzle piece – this is the topsail.

The gaff rig was the standard manner of rigging a sailboat a century ago and before. The thinking at that time had to do primarily with the ability to manage sail area. The sails weren’t made of the lightweight synthetics of today and there was solid logic involved in dividing the sail plan into pieces for the purposes of balancing and reefing in strong winds. Like today, sailors wanted horsepower via sail area and fractioned rigs allowed skippers to also manage it more easily.

These rigs weren’t so wonderful upwind, so when the bermuda rig was introduced, with their efficiency and simplicity, the gaff rig fell out of favor. Modern sloops dominated the scene and continue to do so, but during the 1960s, folks began to say, “actually gaff rigs are kind of cool,” and there was something of a resurgence based on a love for history and the beauty of the rig.

Today, gaff rigs are still around, sailed by sailors who love what they represent and some that swear by their sailing capabilities. Like the ketch rig, gaff rig lovers will say that the configuration produces less heel, a more comfortable sail, better balance and more choices for reefing in heavier winds. They might also speak of the practicality of being out at sea and having the ability to make repairs to a a part of the rig with plenty of rig still intact and operational.

However, the gaff rig’s greatest pull is probably its classic appearance. There is something so undeniably dignified and stalwart about a fully rigged, gaff-rigged sailboat making its way. They are living reminders of where technology was and the importance of solid craftsmanship that existed at that time. They exude beauty and carry with them a spirit that is unique and distinct.

What's in a Rig Series:

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Learn How To Rig a Gaff Rig Sailboat – A Step-by-Step Guide

Alex Morgan

Rigging a gaff rig sailboat is essential for anyone who wants to embark on a sailing adventure with this unique type of sailboat. Gaff rig sailboats are known for their traditional design and distinctive triangular shape that sets them apart from other sailboats.

To properly rig a gaff rig sailboat, it is crucial to understand the different components involved, such as the gaff spar , boom , sails , and rigging . In this comprehensive guide, we will walk through the step-by-step process of rigging a gaff rig sailboat, including preparing the spar and sails, hoisting the mainsail, attaching the boom and headsail, and setting the rigging. we will provide valuable tips for rigging and sailing a gaff rig sailboat, including maintaining proper tension, adjusting the gaff spar and boom, and understanding sail trim. By following this guide, you will be able to rig your gaff rig sailboat effectively and set sail with confidence.

Key takeaway:

• Introduction to Gaff Rig Sailboats: Gaff rig sailboats are a type of sailboat that utilize a gaff spar, boom, sails, and rigging to operate.
• Components of a Gaff Rig Sailboat: The gaff spar, boom, sails, and rigging are all vital components that make up a gaff rig sailboat.
• Step-by-Step Guide: How to Rig a Gaff Rig Sailboat: Rigging a gaff rig sailboat involves preparing the spar and sails, hoisting the mainsail, attaching the boom and headsail, and setting the rigging.

Components of a Gaff Rig Sailboat

Get to know the key components that make up a gaff rig sailboat . From the sturdy gaff spar to the versatile boom , the beautifully crafted sails to the intricate rigging , each sub-section of this section unravels the essence of a gaff rig sailboat. Explore the intricate details and learn about the important role these components play in the smooth sailing of this classic rigging system.

The Gaff Spar is a vital component of a Gaff Rig Sailboat , providing support to the sail. It is a pole attached to the mast and extends horizontally towards the stern of the boat. The Gaff Spar has a significant role in controlling the shape and position of the sail, impacting the boat’s performance.

The Gaff Spar consists of several parts that contribute to its functionality. These include the jaws , which secure it to the mast, and the peak halyard , used to raise and lower the gaff. The throat halyard controls the position of the gaff on the mast.

When rigging a Gaff Spar, proper tension and alignment are necessary. The jaws should be securely attached to the mast, and the halyards should be adjusted to achieve the desired sail shape. Maintaining the correct tension throughout the sail is crucial for optimal performance.

Fun fact: The Gaff Spar is a distinctive feature of Gaff Rig Sailboats and allows for a larger sail area, making them powerful and efficient vessels.

The boom is a vital part of a gaff rig sailboat. It is a horizontal pole that extends from the mast and supports the lower edge of the mainsail. Here are some important facts about the boom:

Function: The boom controls the shape and angle of the mainsail, maintains tension in the sail, and allows for effective maneuvering of the boat.

Construction: Booms are made of aluminum or wood, depending on the sailboat type. They are designed to be sturdy yet lightweight to withstand wind forces.

Attachment: The boom is attached to one end of the mast and can pivot freely. The other end connects to the mainsail, allowing it to move as the sail is raised, lowered, or adjusted.

Manipulation: Sailors adjust the boom position using the boom vang, a device that controls tension and height. Adjusting the boom optimizes sail shape and trim, enhancing the boat’s performance.

Safety: Caution is necessary when near the boom to avoid collisions. Sailors should be mindful of their position and the boom’s movement during tacking or gybing.

Fact: The boom in a gaff rig sailboat aids in optimizing sail shape and trim, improving performance and maneuverability on the water.

The sails are essential components of a gaff rig sailboat. There are two main types of sails used in this rig: the mainsail and the headsail .

The mainsail is the largest sail and is attached to the gaff spar. It captures the wind and propels the boat forward. The mainsail can be adjusted to control the sail’s angle and shape , optimizing performance.

The headsail , also known as the foresail , is located forward of the mast. It complements the mainsail by providing additional power and stability. The headsail can be adjusted to control the wind captured, allowing sailors to adapt to different conditions.

Both sails are crucial for maneuvering and controlling the gaff rig sailboat. They are designed and crafted for efficiency and performance on the water. Sail trim , adjusting the position and tension of the sails, is vital for speed and handling.

Regularly inspect and maintain the sails to ensure a successful sailing experience. Check for wear or damage and make necessary repairs or replacements. Proper care and attention will enhance the sails’ longevity and the overall sailing experience.

Rigging a gaff rig sailboat involves several steps to ensure the sails and rigging are properly set up for smooth sailing. Here is a step-by-step guide:

1. Check the spar and sails for damage or wear. Attach the gaff spar securely to the mast.

2. Hoist the mainsail by attaching the halyard to the head of the sail and raising it up the mast. Secure the halyard.

3. Connect the boom to the mast and secure it using the boom vang.

4. Attach the headsail by connecting the halyard to the head of the sail and hoisting it up the forestay.

5. Adjust the shrouds and stays to set the rigging. Check for proper tension for stability and support.

6. Attach the halyards and sheets to the sail and boom, respectively. Ensure they are properly tensioned for sail control.

Maintaining proper tension in the rigging is crucial for stability and performance. Regularly check and adjust the tension as needed. Correctly adjusting the gaff spar and boom is important for sail control and achieving the desired sail shape and performance. Understanding sail trim is essential for optimizing the performance of a gaff rig sailboat. Experiment with different sail positions to find the most efficient settings for various wind conditions.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Rig a Gaff Rig Sailboat

Get ready to set sail with this step-by-step guide on rigging a gaff rig sailboat. From preparing the spar and sails to hoisting the mainsail, attaching the boom and headsail, and setting the rigging – we’ll walk you through each crucial step. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a curious novice, these tips will help you navigate the process smoothly and get you out on the water in no time. So grab your gear and let’s rig that sailboat!

Preparing the Spar and Sails

Preparing the Spar and Sails for rigging a gaff rig sailboat involves several crucial steps. It is essential to carefully inspect the spar for any signs of damage or wear, such as cracks , splits , or loose fittings. This thorough inspection ensures the safety and functionality of the sailboat.

Next, it is important to prepare the sails by laying them out on a clean surface and checking for any tears or holes . This step guarantees that the sails are in optimal condition for rigging.

To hoist the sails up the mast, it is necessary to attach the halyards securely. It is crucial to ensure that they are properly attached and free from any knots that could hinder the smooth hoisting process.

Controlling the angle and tension of the sails can be achieved by attaching the sheets . These sheets must be securely fastened and properly adjusted to maintain the desired sail position.

Another important attachment is the downhaul , which allows for controlling the shape of the sail. It is of utmost importance to securely attach and properly adjust the downhaul to ensure an optimal sailing experience.

Carefully check the rigging , including the shrouds and stays , for any signs of damage or wear. It is crucial to properly tension and securely fasten all rigging components to guarantee the sailboat’s stability.

Inspecting the sail track and slides on the mast for cleanliness and obstructions is another essential step. This inspection ensures that the sails can smoothly and efficiently slide along the mast during rigging.

Once these steps have been completed, you will be fully prepared to continue rigging your gaff rig sailboat. Always remember to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and utilize proper sailing techniques for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water.

Hoisting the Mainsail

To hoist the mainsail on a gaff rig sailboat, follow these steps:

• Attach the halyard to the head of the mainsail .
• Begin hoisting the mainsail by pulling on the halyard.
• Keep an eye on the luff to ensure proper alignment.
• Continue hoisting the mainsail to the desired height.
• Secure the halyard once the mainsail is fully hoisted.

Suggestions for hoisting the mainsail :

• Take your time and be careful.
• Communicate with your crew members.
• Practice in calm weather conditions first.
• Regularly inspect rigging components for good condition and maintenance.

Remember, hoisting the mainsail is important for preparing the sailboat. Follow the steps carefully and stay safe on the water.

Attaching the Boom and Headsail

To attach the boom and headsail on a gaff rig sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Position the boom: Place the boom on the mast and slide it toward the aft end until it aligns with the jaws of the gaff spar.

2. Secure the boom: Attach the boom to the jaws of the gaff spar using a stainless-steel pin or bolt. Ensure it is tightly secured to prevent movement during sailing.

3. Attach the headsail: Take the headsail and attach it to the forestay connected to the masthead. Use hanks or clips on the headsail to fasten it securely to the forestay. Ensure all attachments are secure.

4. Adjust the tension: Check the tension of the headsail by gently pulling on the sheets. The headsail should be taut but not overly tight. Make necessary adjustments for the desired tension.

5. Inspect connections: Double-check all connections and fastenings to ensure they are secure. Confirm that the boom is properly attached to the gaff spar and the headsail is securely fastened to the forestay.

By following these steps, you can successfully attach the boom and headsail on a gaff rig sailboat, giving you a smooth and efficient sailing experience.

Setting the Rigging

To properly set the rigging on a gaff rig sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Adjust the shrouds and stays: Ensure that these lines are properly tensioned and secure. They support the mast and maintain its position.

2. Rig the halyards and sheets: Attach the halyards to the sails and run them through the appropriate blocks or pulleys. The halyards hoist and control the sails. The sheets control the angle and tension of the sails.

Setting the rigging is critical for rigging a gaff rig sailboat. The proper tension and alignment of the shrouds and stays ensure mast stability and performance. Rigging the halyards and sheets correctly is essential for controlling the sails and maneuvering the boat effectively. By following these steps, you can ensure that your gaff rig sailboat is properly rigged and ready for a successful sailing experience.

Gaff rig sailboats have a rich history dating back to the 17th century. They were commonly used on working sailboats and fishing vessels due to their versatility and efficiency. The design features a large, fore-and-aft mainsail supported by a gaff spar. This rigging allowed sailors to navigate different wind conditions and made these boats well-suited for hauling cargo and coastal trading. Although modern sailboat designs have evolved, gaff rig sailboats are still admired for their aesthetic appeal and nostalgic charm. Many sailing enthusiasts still enjoy the unique experience of setting the rigging and sailing a gaff rig sailboat, connecting with a bygone era of maritime history.

Tips for Rigging and Sailing a Gaff Rig Sailboat

Get ready to set sail with these expert tips for rigging and sailing a gaff rig sailboat . We’ll dive into the secrets of maintaining proper tension, adjusting the gaff spar and boom , and understanding sail trim . Discover the key elements to make your gaff rig sailboat glide effortlessly through the water and experience the thrill of harnessing the wind’s power. So, grab your ropes and let’s embark on an exciting journey into the world of gaff rig sailing !

Maintaining Proper Tension

Maintaining proper tension is crucial for the performance and safety of a gaff rig sailboat. To achieve this, follow these steps:

1. Regularly inspect the rigging for any signs of wear or damage, including the shrouds, stays, halyards, and sheets.

2. Adjust the rigging tension as needed to ensure the integrity of the rig and prevent excessive movement.

3. To check the tension of the shrouds and stays, gently apply pressure to the mast and observe the deflection. The mast should have a slight bend .

4. If the tension is too loose , tighten the shrouds and stays gradually using an appropriate tensioning device. Remember to distribute equal tension on both sides.

5. On the other hand, if the tension is too tight , release some tension by turning the tensioning device counterclockwise.

6. Pay close attention to the tension of the halyards and sheets. They should support the sails without hindering their movement.

7. Regularly inspect the tension of the gaff spar and boom, ensuring they are both secure and properly tensioned to control the shape of the sail.

8. Adjust the tension of the gaff spar and boom as necessary to achieve optimal sail trim and performance .

9. Maintain proper tension throughout your sailing trip and make adjustments as the conditions change.

By following these steps, you can ensure that your gaff rig sailboat maintains the proper tension for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Adjusting the Gaff Spar and Boom

Adjusting the gaff spar and boom is imperative when rigging a gaff rig sailboat . It is crucial for ensuring the proper sail shape, stability, and control while sailing.

To begin, check the alignment by making sure the gaff spar is parallel and centered with the mast.

Next, tighten the gaff jaws by securely fastening them around the mast. This will prevent any movement during sailing.

Then, attach the throat halyard to the throat of the gaff spar . This will allow you to control the height and angle of the mainsail.

Fine-tune the tension of the throat halyard to achieve the desired sail shape. More tension will raise the gaff spar , while less tension will lower it.

Securely attach the peak halyard to the peak of the gaff spar . This will give you control over the leech tension and the overall shape of the mainsail.

Adjust the tension of the peak halyard to achieve optimal sail shape. Increasing the tension will increase leech tension and flatten the sail, while decreasing the tension will allow the sail to fill out more.

Always check the boom position to ensure it is properly attached to the mast and gaff spar . It should be parallel to the deck and positioned at the desired height.

To control the twist in the mainsail, modify the boom angle. Higher boom angles will increase twist, while lower angles will decrease it.

Increase the tension in the boom vang to control the downward force on the boom. This will stabilize the mainsail and prevent excessive leech flutter.

By following these steps and making necessary adjustments to the gaff spar and boom , you can optimize the performance and maneuverability of your gaff rig sailboat.

Understanding Sail Trim

Understanding sail trim is crucial for sailing a gaff rig sailboat effectively. Sail trim optimizes sail performance and maximizes speed and efficiency. Consider the following aspects of sail trim:

1. Adjusting the sails: Properly understand sail trim and set the sails for efficient propulsion. Keep the sails trimmed according to wind direction and strength. Well-trimmed mainsail and headsail provide optimal power and balance.

2. Controlling twist: Understanding sail trim helps maintain the desired amount of twist based on wind conditions. Too much twist reduces efficiency, while too little twist causes excessive heeling. Adjust sheets and halyards to control twist effectively.

3. Balancing the boat: Proficient sail trim helps maintain balance and stability while sailing. Understand how to adjust the sails to evenly distribute forces, minimizing weather helm or lee helm. Balanced boats sail more efficiently and are easier to control.

4. Monitoring sail shape: Pay attention to sail shape and understand how sail trim affects it. The sails should have a smooth, aerodynamic shape without excessive wrinkles or flapping. Adjust tension on halyards, sheets, and outhaul to achieve the desired sail shape.

5. Reacting to changing conditions: Understanding sail trim means being attentive to shifts in wind direction and strength. Make necessary adjustments promptly to optimize performance.

Understanding sail trim comes with experience. Regular practice and observation of how adjustments affect boat performance enhance sail trim proficiency. By cultivating this understanding, you can improve efficiency and enjoyment of sailing a gaff rig sailboat .

Facts about How To Rig A Gaff Rig Sailboat:

Some Facts About How To Rig A Gaff Rig Sailboat:

• ✅ Modern gaff rig sailboats offer practicality and simplicity, with easier trailing and rigging compared to Bermudan rigs. (Source: Classic Boat)
• ✅ The lower center of effort of gaff rigs allows for lighter lifting keels and easier downwind performance. (Source: Classic Boat)
• ✅ Trimming a gaffer can be challenging and rewarding, with boom angle and jib tension being important factors in optimizing performance. (Source: PBO)
• ✅ Gaff rig owners often prefer cream or white sails for better visibility and a classic appearance. (Source: PBO)
• ✅ Sewing the ends of two ropes together using sailmaker’s twine allows for easy replacement of worn or damaged halyards on gaff-rigged sailboats. (Source: PBO)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how do i rig a gaff rigged sailboat with multiple blocks.

Rigging a gaff rigged sailboat with multiple blocks can seem daunting at first, but the process is actually simple if both ends of the halyards are accessible from the deck. By sewing the ends of the two ropes together using sailmaker’s twine, you can create a smooth joint that can be easily pulled through the blocks. Simply pull on the free end of the old halyard, and the new one will automatically reeve.

2. What are the advantages of using lightweight synthetics in gaff rigging?

Using lightweight synthetics in gaff rigging offers several advantages. These materials are not only lighter in weight, but they also have increased strength and durability. They are less prone to stretching and UV degradation, providing a longer lifespan for your rigging. Lightweight synthetics can improve upwind efficiency and downwind performance, resulting in a smoother sailing experience.

3. Why are gaff rigs preferred in heavier winds?

Gaff rigs are often preferred in heavier winds due to their lower rig tension and the use of high peak gaffs. The lower center of effort and shorter spars of gaff rigs allow for better balance and easier management of sail area in strong winds. This results in less heel and a more comfortable sail, allowing sailors to maintain control and stability even in challenging conditions.

4. How are gaff rigs different from bermuda rigs?

Gaff rigs and bermuda rigs differ in their sail configurations and rigging. Gaff rigs use a spar, or strong pole, on top of the sail, while bermuda rigs have a triangular mainsail. Gaff rigs were commonly used in the past and offer a classic appearance, while bermuda rigs are more modern and efficient. Bermuda rigs have become dominant in the sailing scene, but gaff rigs are still appreciated by enthusiasts for their unique sailing capabilities and timeless charm.

5. What are some modern conveniences in gaff-rigged sailboats?

Modern gaff-rigged sailboats, also known as gaffers, offer a blend of classic style designs and modern conveniences. These boats are designed for practicality and simplicity, providing easier trailing and rigging compared to bermudan rigs. They often feature improved performance, with upgrades such as carbon spars and modern hardware. Gaffers also have lighter lifting keels and better downwind performance thanks to their lower center of effort, making them suitable for a variety of sailing conditions.

6. How do I replace an old wick in a paraffin lamp on a gaff-rigged vessel?

Replacing an old wick in a paraffin lamp on a gaff-rigged vessel is a simple process. Just like replacing a worn or damaged halyard, you can use a technique called sewing. Stitch the ends of the new wick together using light sailmakers twine, creating a smooth joint. Then, pull out the old wick by pulling on the free end, and the new one will automatically be pulled through. This technique can be used both on a gaff-rigged vessel and for other purposes, such as replacing a halyard.

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The gaff rig’s origins can be traced back through the centuries, emerging as a refinement of the older square rig and spritsail designs. It introduced the ‘gaff’, a wooden spar at the top of the sail extending diagonally from the mast, allowing for a larger sail area and improved control. This innovation enabled sailors to harness the wind more efficiently, enhancing manoeuvrability and overall performance.

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One key distinction between gaff rigged vessels and their square rigged counterparts is the positioning of the sails. Square rigs feature square-shaped sails that are attached perpendicular to the mast. Gaff rigged vessels utilise triangular sails suspended from the gaff. This configuration offers greater control over sail shape and allows for efficient tacking into the wind.

Advantages and Impact

The gaff rig’s ability to sail closer to the wind than square sailed ships was a revolutionary advancement in sail technology. This capability not only expedited voyages but also impacted global trade, exploration, and naval warfare. Gaff rigged vessels became favoured choices for coastal and short-haul journeys, as they could navigate shallow waters and challenging coastlines with agility.

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Gaff rig: past, present and future

In this article, first published in Water Craft Magazine, November/December 2015, designer Andrew Wolstenholme suggests there's more to modern gaffers than 'nostalgia-lite'.

The gaff rig is viewed by most modern sailors as a throwback to a bygone era, aesthetically pleasing in a traditional way but less efficient and more complicated than the predominant Bermudan rig.

Whilst there are some grounds for this view, there remains a degree of misunderstanding and gaff has much more to offer today’s sailor than a pretty face.

The evolution of all man-made artefacts is driven by the needs and ingenuity of those around at the time along with the materials and technology available to them. When sail and oar were the only means of propelling boats, development and refinement of the sailing rig was intense, but with limited means of communication, ideas took time to spread. All around the world boatbuilders developed craft and rigs to meet the needs of local fishermen and traders, some of whom may have travelled no more than a few miles up and down the coast in their entire lifetime. Where the ongoing development of today's rigs is driven by sales to the leisure sailor, the early gaff rigs were developed for commercial purposes and had to meet the utilitarian needs of impecunious boatmen.

The predecessor of gaff rig, the square rig, was a crude fabric sail simply hung from a horizontal yard. In the fore-and-aft gaff rig the yard is swung to one side having one end resting against the mast. The sail remains simply supported by the yard, now called the gaff. Masts, usually a simple wooden pole, didn't need to be overlong to support a given amount of sail. The gaff could double up as a derrick for lifting cargo and equipment on or off the boat. In summary, the gaff was simple and robust, practical and seamanlike, and crucially, cost effective.

In contrast the Bermudan rig evolved at the behest of the leisure sailor and was only feasible due to new innovations in material technology, allowing tall lightweight spars, high strength rigging and fittings with improved sailcloths. In this high tech age, gaff still has much to commend it. The Bermudan rig is undeniably more efficient to windward but gaff's reputation for poor windward ability is largely down to the hull on which the rig is set.

A well set up gaff rig on an efficient modern hull will put up a very creditable performance against Bermudan rigged opposition. Downwind, the low aspect ratio gaff main is more efficient than the high aspect ratio Bermudan which has to resort to the use of a spinnaker. ‘Alice III' is a case in point with her Simon Rogers' designed race bred hull topped by a powerful carbon sparred gaff topsail rig, a veritable wolf in sheep's clothing! Nigel Irens' gaff schooner ‘Maggie B' raised the bar with her clean hull and weight-saving carbon rig, resulting in a step change in performance.

" A gaffer will outsail some Bermudan boats "

The old working boats had heavy, solid timber spars and chunky fittings. They had no alternative. Today there is no need to carry so much weight aloft. Weight high up must be counterbalanced by even more weight on the bottom of the boat if she is to be powerful enough to carry sufficient sail. Reduce the top weight and the all up weight of the boat can be cut down to give improved performance or the ability to carry yet more sail.

For those who need to fold their mast down easily like th Broads yachts, Dutch boats and trailer sailers, then the lighter and shorter the rig can be made the easier life will be. Hollow timber spars are lighter than solid ones, and extruded aluminium ones are generally lighter again, but the greatest advances are to be made by using carbon fibre. Bermudan spars are elliptical in cross section as they need greater stiffness fore and aft than they do athwartships, because of the way that they are stayed. This makes for an expensive carbon spar. Gaff spars on the other hand are generally round, ideally suited to cost effective cylindrical carbon tubes making them a viable proposition. In addition to this the tall Bermudan mast requires complex staying and the narrow shroud base relative to the height of the mast plus the need for good headsail luff tension leads to high rigging loads. Conversely the shorter gaff mast is simpler to support and less highly loaded.

By using carbon spars on my own little trailer sailer ‘Kite' I was able to keep the weight of the rig down which in turn meant that I could minimise the weight of the ballast, keeping her all up weight to just 3/4ton/750kgs, making her easily trailed behind a 2litre car. Her short tabernacle stepped mast is only 17ft long and weighs just 15lbs so raising and lowering it is simplicity itself and once down it fits within the length of the boat.

Her light hull powered by a fine set of McNamara sails, results in a boat which is fast on all points of sail. When I started sketching out ideas for ‘Kite’ I had an open mind on the rig, and it was not my intention to go for gaff, but as my ideas evolved it became clear that gaff was the simplest and most practical rig for the boat. 

Probably the first boat with carbon spars and a traditional-looking rig was Nigel Irens’ modern take on the Shetland lugger, ‘Roxanne’. Nigel adapted the technology familiar to him, working as a leading multihull designer, to create this innovative and elegant, 'spirit of tradition' design.

I think it no coincidence that the French are probably the most forward thinking in their development of gaff rig with a cross fertilisation of ideas from the multihull builders and designers of northwest France into the local monohull daysailers. The Dutch too have moved gaff forward with numerous one design half-deckers sporting hollow timber spars with bolt rope tracks and carefully designed lightweight fittings, and others with simple aluminium sparred and carbon fibre rigs.

" In the UK we have tended to take a more traditionalist approach to gaff "

In the UK we have tended to take a more traditionalist approach to gaff, favouring the preservation of the old boats with their rigs and methods, although we have seen more open-minded development in recent years. The new plastic gaffers which appeared in the late 1970s and early 1980s targeted the nostalgia market. They largely stayed with very traditional rigs and hull forms.

The Dutch have long favoured curved gaffs on their traditional rigs but in a recent interesting development, the late Ted Spears of North Quay Marine took this a step further with the rig on his Spitfire 19. Here he used a longer curved gaff, combined with a full roach to mimic the efficient elliptical WW2 Spitfire fighter’s wing shape for the main, to maximize both upwind and downwind efficiency.

Roger Dongray’s Cornish Shrimper has probably been the most commercially successful of the genre and with good reason. Her builders, Cornish Crabbers  were originally the racing dinghy specialists, Westerly Boats. The Shrimper incorporated modern fittings for efficient sail handling, a square section timber bowsprit, boom, and gaff to keep build costs down.

She retained the appeal of timber spars whilst setting an efficient high aspect ratio gaff rig. This proved to be a winning combination of the old and the new. The new Shrimper 21 sticks pretty much to the same formula but with a little more space and minor but important refinements.

A gaff mainsail can be simply depowered by scandalising the main (dropping the peak), and when reefed it doesn't have lots of now redundant mast left high above the deck as is the case with Bermudan. A Bermudan mainsail with a modern jiffy reefing system is likely to be viewed as easier to reef than a traditional long footed gaff mainsail but a modern gaff main with a shorter foot and a carefully thought out reefing system will be similarly easy to reef. Windage of the mast and rigging is an important issue for performance, and the Bermudan rig has an advantage here, so every effort must be taken when designing a gaff rig to minimize clutter and keep it as simple and clean as possible.

Over the last few years we have seen the emergence of the ‘fathead’ main on Bermudan rigs. The narrow triangular head of a conventional Bermudan mainsail works inefficiently due to the disturbed airflow aft of the mast, but new developments in sailcloth technology have made it possible to clip off the top of the mast and sail and create a wide mainsail head which is not dissimilar to a very high aspect ratio gaff main and topsail. Weight is saved high above the deck by reducing the mast length, windage reduced and mainsail efficiency is improved. This innovation narrows the gap between gaff and Bermudan and it will be interesting to see how it continues to evolve.

Our fondness for gaff rig was born through the old working boats, and long may they continue to be loved and sailed, but maybe the time is right for a true re-birth of gaff. The first steps in this latest stage of the rig's evolution have been taken and I believe that the future for gaff is bright, but it is up to designers, builders and most importantly the customers, to encourage its continued development.

Browse the OGA gallery of some modern gaffers.

© Andrew Wolstenholme first published in Water Craft Magazine, November/December 2015

Water Craft Magazine

Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Getting to grips with gaff

• David Harding
• October 1, 2015

With modern designs in the classic style becoming ever more popular, David Harding offers some tips on getting the best from a gaffer

Cornish Shrimpers in Poole Week. Credit: David Harding/SailingScenes

There’s no question about it: modern gaffers are go.

Almost wherever you look around our shores the number of boats sporting bowsprits, gaff rigs and tan (or perhaps cream) sails is on the increase .

The appeal of these classic-style designs with a modern twist is easy to see.

They combine echoes of traditional charm with modern convenience and, in many cases, surprisingly good performance to boot.

Download the article as it appeared in Practical Boat Owner’s June 2015 issue here.

Cornish Shrimper 172, Poole Week 2014. Credit: David Harding/SailingScenes

Enjoyable practicality

More often than not, people who own boats like this have never sailed with a gaff rig before but enjoy its practicality apart from anything else.

With boats of a trailable size , trailing and rigging is generally simpler than with a Bermudan rig because of the shorter spars, lower rig tension and absence of spreaders.

The gaff rig’s centre of effort is typically lower, so a lifting keel can be lighter and less complicated.

Dropping the mainsail is easier and downwind performance excellent even without a spinnaker.

True, upwind efficiency might not match that of a Bermudan rig, but modern gaffers have been known to give ‘pointy-sail’ boats of similar size a run for their money.

That’s a function not only of rig developments, such as high-peak gaffs and, in some instances, carbon spars, but also of the hulls beneath the rigs.

In fact, the difference in performance between traditional old gaffers and many of the new breed is becoming so great that discussions are taking place within the Old Gaffers’ Association – in whose events modern gaffers frequently now take part – about how to handicap the old versus the new.

For example, in the big and breezy race of the Old Gaffers’ 50th anniversary event in Cowes, Andrew Wolstenholme’s Kite – featured in PBO – barely saw any other boats in her class and was effectively racing in the class above.

Light and slippery designs like this will readily surf downwind.

They take ‘gaffering’ into a whole new territory.

Pulling strings

Whether or not you’re interested in performance in absolute terms, tweaking a gaffer can be both challenging and rewarding.

And if you want to race, the competition is there: just look at the Cornish Shrimpers .

In Poole we have strong Shrimper fleets sailing from two clubs and involving owners who have previously raced classes ranging from performance dinghies and J/24s to IOR designs in Ton Cup campaigns.

That the Shrimper is not fast by any standards doesn’t make winning any easier.

The best tactical sailors often come from the slowest boats.

We’re using the Shrimper as the model in this feature because of her popularity and because the simple, high-peak gaff rig is typical of that seen on other modern gaffers such as the Norfolk Gypsy.

When it comes to trimming and techniques , the same principles apply to many boats of similar ilk.

To see what makes a Shrimper tick, I sailed on two boats that are usually to be found towards the sharp end of the fleet in Poole – Richard Hornby’s Kingfisher, No898, and Roatan, No575, sailed by Peter and Judy Fontes.

Although the sails on a gaffer are a different shape from those on a Bermudan rig – the mainsail especially – the same fundamental principles apply.

You have to learn some new names and pull some different strings, but your objectives remain the same in terms of optimising draught position, camber, twist and so on.

If you’re used to tweaking a Bermudan rig to good effect there’s no reason why you shouldn’t quickly get the hang of a modern gaff.

For all the similarities, however, one essential to bear in mind when sailing a gaffer – especially one like a Shrimper – is that it rarely pays to strap everything in tight and try to point.

You will stop – or as good as.

Boats of this nature don’t generate the same lift from their rigs or their flat steel centreplates as a modern fin-keeler.

They have to be sailed further off the wind. Maintaining momentum is the key, because once they’ve stopped they take some coaxing to get going again.

The boom needs to be outboard of the quarter; slightly further outboard in lighter winds and closer to the centreline in fresher breezes if the water is flat.

Because of the relatively low rig tension on a gaffer, the jib is cut to accommodate forestay sag. As on a Bermudan rig, more wind calls for a tighter forestay to stop the sag becoming too great.

Judy is chief string-puller on Roatan, leaving Peter to concentrate on helming, and says that forestay tension is rarely adjusted during a race because, particularly in close quarters round-the-cans racing in the harbour, there’s not enough time. Everyone agrees that the tension of the jib sheet is far more important.

A less consensual topic is sail colour.

Shrimper sails were traditionally made from tan cloth and some owners disapprove of the growing trend for cream or white sails.

The problem is that it’s hard to see the leeward telltales through a tan jib, which is why many Shrimpers now have sails (or, like Roatan, just the jib) in a paler colour.

The relatively recent adoption of windows in the luff is an alternative solution.

Photo credit: David Harding/SailingScenes

A quick recap

Downwind/lighter winds: slacken outhaul, throat halyard and peak halyard. Upwind/stronger winds: tension outhaul, throat halyard and peak halyard.

Stronger winds all round: tension kicker.

Any conditions: don’t over-sheet the jib. Keep the boom outboard of the quarter.

Areas of imprecision

With a gaff rig, you have to get used to the fact that the yard and the long, heavy boom will bounce and swing around in a seaway – as illustrated by this sequence of Kingfisher in a light breeze and poppy sea.

There’s nothing you can do about it other than use the kicking strap to help keep the boom under control and make sure you sail free enough to keep the sails driving and the boat moving.

The flyaway jib stick

Moving to the Shrimper after many years of racing Albacores, Peter and Judy Fontes brought with them the flyaway jib stick.

With the inboard end remaining attached to an uphaul/downhaul system on the mast and the outboard end to the clew of the jib, it not only allows the jib to be poled out for goose-winging but also helps to control the twist on a reach.

Upwind, the inboard end is pulled up the mast so the pole exerts no influence and simply follows the jib across during tacks.

The idea has been widely adopted within the Shrimper fleet.

Instead of hooking to a ring on the mast, the inboard end of the pole remains attached to an uphaul:downhaul system

Related articles

• Anchoring: 6 Tips for tricky situations
• Sculling over the stern
• Updating electronic charts
• What difference do new sails make?

A sailmaker’s view

I asked several of the leading sailmakers in the Shrimper fleet for their tips, and Dick Batt of Batt Sails offered the following.

Although we were discussing Batt’s sails for Shrimpers specifically, these suggestions apply equally to a wide range of modern gaffers.

• Keep the jib powerful. It will be designed with luff hollow to accommodate the inevitable forestay sag on a gaffer. Set the car position to give it enough twist and don’t be tempted to over-sheet, though you can sheet it tighter in more breeze and in flat water than in light airs and a chop.
• Make sure your mainsail has a reasonably straight exit at the leech. Like many gaffers, the Shrimper naturally carries weather helm and too much curvature in the leech will exacerbate this tendency. So if the draught has blown aft, as tends to happen with old sails as they stretch, your boat will become both slower and heavier on the helm.
• Gaff is not gunter! Mainsails like the Shrimper’s are high-peak gaffs, but trying to angle the yard closer to vertical, like a gunter rig, won’t help. Set the peak halyard tension to achieve the right amount of twist and keep the leech telltales flying.

Richard’s tips

• Maintain momentum: get the boat going, keep it going.
• Back the jib: during a tack, back the jib to help the bow round. Then sail free with the jib relatively loose until you’re back up to speed.
• Peter and Judy’s tips
• Tack only when you need to: tacking costs at least three hard-won boat-lengths.
• Upgrade the hardware: fit what you need to allow easy adjustment. Most fast Shrimpers now have winches, clutches and low-friction track systems.

Gaff rigs provide plenty of strings to pull and offer more than enough scope for inveterate tweakers.

For some gaffer owners there are few greater pleasures than surprising the crew of a boat with a Bermudan rig.

Whatever your ambitions, it’s always worth talking to people who sail something similar.

Better still, sail with or race against other boats of the same type, whether in a club race, a rally or a cruise in company.

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What's the Ideal Sailing Rig...? Kasten Marine Design, Inc. Copyright 2001 - 2020 Michael Kasten   Rig Choice Cat, Sloop; Cutter; Ketch; Schooner... these are the basic configurations. How shall we choose among them? The type of rig is often a pre-ordained choice once one has determined vessel size, the preferred layout, and the maximum size of sail one can handle. While this may seem somewhat heretical at first, there is no arguing the fact that no one wants a mast in the middle of their double berth...! Therefore, if a double berth right forward is a priority, it is likely to rule out the schooner rig on a vessel under around 50 feet. For that layout, we would instead tend toward the ketch or cutter rig. On a fairly small vessel though, we might make excellent use of the Cat rig. How shall we choose? It is always a benefit to windward performance to limit the number of sails. A cutter will perform better for example than a ketch or a schooner due to there being less windage in the rig, in other words less drag, and less turbulence introduced per sail area by the masts. Since lift is important for windward sailing, one might then ask which sails provide the most lift...? The answer to this depends on the sail rig, and on the relative proportion of total sail area given to each sail. Since headsails can be varied, their relative contribution to overall lift can be varied as well. It also tends to be that area for area a headsail will provide more lift than a sail mounted on a mast, mainly due to the turbulence caused by the mast. However that can be mitigated by the use of dual-skinned sails that create a true foil with one sail on each side of the mast, as is done on the Ljungstrom rig. Why would we consider a split rig then? In nearly all cases this choice boils down to the simple question, "What is the maximum size sail you are comfortable handling?" In answering this question honestly, we nearly always discover that on all but the smallest of boats, for general cruising we will probably be better off with a split rig, such as a ketch or schooner. This will serve to limit the size of the main sail for easier sail handling, and still allow a generous overall sail area. It will also give us the benefit of having a rig that is less tall, so better able to be supported. Rather than having a preference for any one rig type, I believe this question will best be answered during the course of developing a design. The rig should naturally be suited to the specific purpose for which the vessel is being developed. The following is intended to shed some light on these questions...   Racing or Voyaging...? We know that lift is important when sailing to windward, across the wind on a reach, and possibly as far off as a broad reach, but not so much when sailing directly off the wind. The farther off the wind you sail from 90 degrees, the less important is lift, and the more important is drag. Of additional importance is a vessel's handling and steering behavior. These factors result in two extremes... and a middle path...   RACING For racing, it is important to maximize lift and mimimize drag so that windward efficiency is achieved. Given that racing yachts must maximize lift, the aspect ratio of their sails and their keels are designed to be at the maximum that the boat can carry. The more time the boat will spend sailing to windward, the more important its windward performance becomes. Since most races are won / lost on the windward leg, maximizing aspect ratio, and therefore maximizing the amount of lift to drag, that wins the race. However, with many such boats fairly severe handling problems can arise due to the fact that a higher aspect rig exerts a greater turning moment on the vessel as it fills with wind. In other words, the taller mast provides a longer lever with which to turn the boat to windward. The keel does the same, i.e. a deeper keel provides a longer lever with which to resist and augment the windward-turning force of the sails. This tends to make the boat relatively stable to windward, with both forces in balance, but makes the vessel very unwieldy and hard to manage down wind. Along with the enhanced windward performance provided by high aspect sails comes rather poor off-wind performance, therefore the use of big spinnakers on racing boats in order to make up for the poor efficiency of the high aspect sails off the wind. This comes at an additional price in terms of steering stability. Moreover, spinnakers themselves are not so easy to handle, nor so well behaved. Often the boat itself is not optimum for off-wind sailing. For example, the usual wide, shoal body, fat-transom racing type with a deep fin keel and spade rudder will always be unstable downwind, especially when flying a spinnaker, requiring constant attention at the helm.   VOYAGING By contrast, since any long distance sailing adventure will be specifically planned to take advantage of following winds, or at the very least to make use of favorable winds, if a vessel’s design is to be optimized for sailing with the wind, the aspect ratio should be reduced. In fact, the best sail rig for off-wind voyaging is the square rig, with an aspect ratio of one. In combination with the low aspect sail rig, the keel should also be low aspect, i.e. long, spread out, and not too deep. This is for the sake of steering stability; to match the aspect ratio of the sails; and so the boat is not so easily tripped by its keel and rolled over in a beam sea. Although this combination is perfect for running in the trade winds for weeks on end, it can hardly be recommended for sailing well to windward...   MODERATION Naturally, no modern sailing vessel ALWAYS sails off the wind even if it will be primarily used for voyaging. Neither extreme is appropriate, therefore a compromise is needed. If a boat is to be optimized for all-around sailing, including voyaging , it makes no sense whatever to provide the kind of high aspect rig optimized to win a round-the-buoys race. Nor does it make any sense to do the opposite, i.e. provide a square rig and long shoal keel. The best is somewhere in-between, i.e. with an aspect ratio for the sails on the order of that recommended below. In order to match the aspect ratio of the sail rig, the keel should also be something in-between, thus a cut-away forefoot and reduced wetted area, without becoming too deep, nor too long and shallow. This moderate configuration will provide good efficiency all around, the sails will be less tall and easier to handle, and the hull will be better able to provide the all-important course keeping ability desired for ocean crossings.   What About Windward Performance? To reiterate the above, if the keel is very long and shoal, and the rig is similarly low and spread out with gaffs and bowsprits and multiple masts ( say like a mid-1800's US coastal fishing schooner) then provided there is adequate sail area, performance will usually be excellent when reaching or running, but less than optimum to windward. At the opposite extreme (disregarding hull form for now) is a deep high-aspect fin keel, with a tall high-aspect Marconi sloop rig. This type of vessel will ordinarily perform very well to windward, but will be quite inferior on other points of sailing, requiring spinnakers and a sizable inventory of reaching and running sails. As noted above, these are two extremes. Given all that we have learned about windward sailing since the days of old, there is no reason to suffer poor windward performance on any vessel, nor poor off-wind performance necessitating a large sail inventory (read expense and hassle) often accompanied by poor down-wind handling. There is a wide middle ground...! Examples among my designs that have maximized voyaging ability, but still have reasonably good windward ability, are Redpath , and Zephyr , both excellent for voyaging. If one were to take the keel design on those vessels just a few notches farther toward reducing wetted surface, but still good for voyaging, you have a keel configuration like that on Jasmine , with separate keel and combination skeg / rudder. In each of these designs, a modern NACA foil keel and modest aspect rig has been provided for the sake of all around sailing both on and off the wind, and good steering stability. If one were to take this a few steps farther in the direction of windward performance, a configuration like that shown for my prototype design called Sonja makes good sense, in this case having a NACA foil bulb keel and a NACA foil spade rudder. It is worth mentioning that Sonja is not yet a completed design, and when finalized might have a slightly deeper keel, although possibly not. The reason to be equivocal on this point is because the bulb on the keel bottom acts as an “end-plate” effectively doubling the aspect ratio of the keel without having to make it deeper... If it is desired to not have a bowsprit, then in order to achieve adequate sail area the rig must simply become taller yet, and the keel deeper.   Quantifying Performance The type of rig one chooses will certainly have an effect on performance, as will the amount of sail area. For maximum performance, there is much benefit to be had with a good hull and keel design, and with well proportioned and well cut sails. We tend to observe many older vessel types which may have neither optimum hull design nor well proportioned sails, and then pass judgment on the type without considering those mitigating factors. Instead, we should look at the components of good cruising performance, and optimize the hull and sails to suit those highly specialized requirements. Aspect Ratio is defined as the height of the sail squared, divided by the area of the sail. A perfectly square sail would have an A/R of 1. A 450 sq. ft. triangular sail with an A/R of 6 would have a 52' luff and a 17' boom. They are both extremes. It is well known that higher aspect sails produce greater lift when close hauled. It not so widely known however that high aspect sails stall much more readily as the angle of attack widens. As A/R gets higher, sails get less and less efficient at pulling when anywhere but close hauled. For racing, where windward performance is of prime importance, it has been shown that an aspect ratio greater than 6 is of little use on monohull racing craft. An appropriate range for optimum windward sailing will be an A/R of from 4 to 6. A polar diagram showing lift vs. drag plotted for sails having the same area but differing aspect ratios very graphically shows that the favored lift / drag position is quickly handed off to shorter and shorter rigs as a sail is eased. If you would like see this data graphically presented, please have a look at the Aero-hydrodynamics of Sailing by Marchaj, p. 444, Fig. 2.138, also shown below... A study of this data shows that the most favorable aspect ratios for ocean cruising, where all-around performance is the goal, an aspect ratio from 2.5 to 3.5 is very appropriate , with an approximate upper limit of around A/R 4. Naturally, these are not "hard" boundaries, only guidelines. In most cases, a compromise is struck in consideration of the times inevitably spent sailing to windward and according to owner preference. In the data presented by Marchaj in the above graph, the angle of incidence of the sail is plotted against lift vs drag. A sail having an A/R of 6 performs exceedingly well at an angle of attack to the apparent wind of 10 degrees, where lift divided by drag (L/D) yields a ratio of around 8.5. At 10 degrees, a sail with A/R 3 has an L/D ratio of 6.5. At 15 degrees, the A/R 6 sail has an L/D ratio of 4.47, and the A/R 3 sail has an L/D ratio of 4.5. At 20 degrees, the A/R 6 sail has an L/D ratio of 2.7, while the A/R 3 sail has an L/D ratio of 3.3, and so forth. By the time an angle of attack of 30 degrees is reached, the favored position is handed off to a sail with an A/R of 1...! Note that A/R as used here refers to the A/R of each individual sail. If the A/R of each sail is, say 3, when adding the sails together the overall height of the rig would not increase, but the overall base dimension WOULD increase, therefore the A/R of the whole rig would be less. The optimum A/R discussed above - and as measured, discussed, and graphed by Marchaj as above - is that of each individual sail. The salient point is that extremely high aspect sails are not "bad" sails, they are just not optimum for general ocean cruising where it is rare to be sailing dead to windward. When required to do so, sails with an A/R of from 3 to 4 will perform quite well, in particular when eased off a few degrees. The benefits of lower aspect sails become much more evident when performing the engineering stunts required to keep an A/R 6 sail's mast from collapsing..! The simpler rigging made possible by lower aspect sails will be its own reward in terms of ease of construction, less rig stress, easier maintenance, and greater rig longevity.  Reduced maintenance and greater longevity... the holy grail for cruisers...!  Whether using a Bermuda rig, a "Marconi" rig, or a Gaff rig, the above factors encourage keeping aspect ratio of the individual sails under around 3.5 to 4 for an ocean cruising vessel. To see an example of this type of modest Bermuda rig, please check out my Fantom design - a perfect all-around cruising vessel. Rig choice is mainly a matter of assessing one's priorities. If those priorities tend toward racing, then the choices will be quite different than the choices made by a cruising sailor.   Keel Profile If the rig is tall and the keel deep, the lever arm will be relatively longer from the center of lateral resistance to the center of effort of the sails, therefore the amount of horizontal lead of the CE forward of the CLR must be proportionately greater to compensate. If on the other hand, the rig is kept fairly low, there will be less draft, and the ideal amount of lead will be much less, even though sail area and stiffness are not reduced. For the best steering and course keeping behavior, and for the greatest overall structural strength, a long full keel offers the most benefit to the long distance cruising sailor. This type of long and relatively shoal draft keel is ideally suited to the lower aspect sail rigs, say up to an aspect ratio of around 3.5. An example is my design Redpath , having relatively shoal draft and generous sail area, yet good sail carrying ability (stiffness). Other examples with similar A/R and keel configuration are Benrogin , Lucille 42 , Lucille 50 , Grace , Zephyr , and Shiraz designs. For the ketch Shiraz , the rig height was limited to 60' off the water for convenience while traveling the ICW along the East Coast, and the draft was limited to 5' - 6" for sailing in the Bahamas. Since Shiraz is an aluminum vessel, there is actually greater sail carrying ability than necessary, so we have the option to give her more sail area, or we may on the other hand choose to keep the rig as-is and assume there will be an extra margin of safety when flying a mule or a spinnaker. Taking the Shiraz a bit further in the direction of windward performance, we might increase the aspect ratio of the mains'l and mizzen, and deepen the keel. At that point, it might be desirable to consider splitting the keel into a deeper portion to contain the ballast, then a shallow portion to contain the shaft alley, then another deeper portion to act as a skeg for the rudder. This would allow a very efficient foil shaped "cruising fin" type of keel, and a similarly efficient combination skeg / rudder combination, while also limiting wetted surface. When the aspect ratio of the sails becomes greater than around 3.5, this kind of long "cruising fin" and skeg hung rudder will usually be preferred. Primarily this choice will be made in order to deepen the keel (and the ballast) but to avoid extra wetted surface. For quick maneuvering, this kind of keel will always be a bit more responsive. The "cruising fin" keel, having a higher aspect ratio and therefore greater lift vs. drag, will naturally have better windward performance than a long and relatively shoal full keel. If not carried to extremes, this will not materially degrade course keeping ability nor the strength of the keel and rudder. Of course when the rig becomes very tall, the keel will become still deeper. Windward performance will be improved, but performance on other points of sail will be degraded, as will course keeping ability. Taken to its logical extreme with deep fin keel and spade rudder, when running in a sea of any size attention to the helm will be critical. This is especially so with fast high aspect sea-going sleds having very fine entries and broad flat sections aft, where lack of attention to the helm may result in an instant broach. While there is no question that this is exhilarating sailing, it can hardly be recommended for safe family cruising... For long passages with the helm unattended, a long and relatively shoal full keel will always be more steady than any other type. For long distance cruising, a longer keel will "track" somewhat more like it is on rails. In harbor, maneuvering turns will have a larger radius. The tactic in that situation is to use a bit of reverse gear to take headway off the boat, then give it a burst in forward gear with the helm over, then another burst in reverse, etc. With that, any full keel boat can be pivoted in her own length. Rather than there being any right or wrong choice, the type of keel profile is a matter of preference, usually based on the type of sailing that is planned. During the design process, once the preferred keel configuration and rig type are chosen, it is simply a matter of balancing them against each other in order to obtain the required lead for the sail area vs the lateral area, and to place the ballast where required for proper trim. Regardless of whether a design is given a long full keel or a "cruising fin" keel, it will benefit performance both on and off the wind to make use of an efficient NACA foil shape. The particular choice of foil type will depend on the keel profile in order to maximize lift, and minimize drag.   What About Winged Keels...? Should the cruising sailor consider a winged keel...? An excellent question. The wing keel concept is not brand new. It has come to us as an evolution of various approaches from the past. For long full-keel applications, the idea was promoted by Henry Scheel from the 1960's onward. It became known as the " Scheel Keel " which has the form of a modified "bulb" along the base of the keel. The particular configuration is to widen the base of the keel via a broadly curved keel bottom (athwartships), with a concave return to the body of the keel above. This creates both a large envelope for the ballast down low, without having to increase draft, and also provides an "end plate" to reduce the induced drag from eddy making at the base of the keel foil, effectively increasing the A/R of the keel without having to make it deeper... Among racers, this concept is transformed into a blade with a distinct "bulb" at the base containing the ballast. This serves the same function as the Scheel type of arrangement, i.e. to lower the ballast and to reduce eddy making at the tip of the keel. A few bulb keel examples can be seen on the 96' schooner Zebulun and the 50' ketch Sonja . The further evolution of the simple bulb is a "bulb with wings." Quite a few combinations have been developed, including several that are aimed more at the cruiser / racer types. In moulded fiberglass or cast lead, nearly any shape can be achieved. In metal construction however, one of the basic challenges in order to keep building costs within bounds is to make use of shapes that are both easily fabricated, and that are also efficient in use. For a cruising boat, an additional priority is to create a structure that is sufficiently robust to withstand serious abuse. In metal construction, for the greatest economy of labor during fabrication (i.e. the most bang for the buck) the most reasonable approach is to make use of simple and distinct shapes, rather than "blended" surfaces as would be more typical with fiberglass construction. For metal construction therefore, if a bulb is planned, it will ideally be a distinctly formed shape, attached to another distinctly formed shape, the keel foil. If wings are provided on the ballast bulb, they will also ideally be distinct "appendages" having a long low aspect shape. If a Scheel type of keel bottom is planned, then for ease of construction it will ideally make use of large diameter heavy wall tubing for the bottom shape, and sections of similar tubing for the concave "return" to the keel foil. The cruising sailor empirically observes, " What sticks out, breaks off ." To address that observation, appendages to the hull are approached with an extreme conservatism... With a winged keel, we have added an appendage to an appendage...! I believe an approach such as that taken by Scheel, or possibly a bulb or modest bulb / wing arrangement, will have the greatest merit for the long distance cruiser. The primary requirement is that the boat be able to take the ground and heel right over on the hard without any chance of structural damage, for which the plain keel, the Scheel arrangement or the bulb keel are ideally suited.   Is the Gaff Rig Suited to Modern Cruising...? If windward sailing is of paramount importance then of course the Bermuda rig has much to recommend it. For modern day cruising the gaff rig is often maligned. In my view, for blue water voyaging the gaff rig has much to offer. If a vessel's keel is shaped efficiently and if the sails are cut for maximum efficiency on the wind and if the sail plan has been designed well, a gaff rigged boat will perform incredibly well, in many cases besting the performance of a high aspect ratio Marconi rigged boat. This is especially so if one is sailing on any course other than a hard beat to windward. A gaff rig provides the chance to set more sail area on a given length of mast. For a given sail area the mast can be quite a bit shorter, so the mast will be that much stronger and will require less complex rigging to keep it in place. The stiffness of a column is inversely proportional to the square of its length. A mast that is twice as long will fail with only one fourth the load, therefore must be four times stronger. One strategy is to use a heavier mast section. The more typical approach is to divide the mast into several "panels" by the use of spreaders. This is the "Marconi" rig. It introduces more stress, more places for failure, more cost, more maintenance, etc. For racing, this is of course justified. For general cruising however, we can make a good case for keeping things simple and strong. If set up simply, a traditional rig will be friendly and easy to use. For example, one will be handling soft lines rather than harsh stainless wire and winches. If the sails are laced, we will have eliminated sail track and other hardware, along with its relatively much greater expense. This is not to say that one should be old fashioned... far from it! For example, nearly all the masts I specify are welded aluminum tube or pipe. These are perfect for the gaff rig as well as for the low aspect Bermuda rig. Compared strictly on a strength to weight to cost basis, aluminum pipe spars are impossible to improve upon. As further example, among the gaff rigs that I have drawn, one will observe that I prefer short gaffs without tops'ls. Primarily, this is for reasons of simplicity, efficiency, and ease of use. The penalty in excess rigging required for gaff tops'ls is more than I'm usually willing to fool with while sailing. In my experience, due to that added complexity, gaff tops'ls often just sit in their bags unused. In exchange for the added complexity of rigging, gaff tops'ls ordinarily provide little gain in terms of usable sail area.   Notes on the Short-Gaff Rig My short-gaff sail plans are meant to address the shortcomings of the traditional types of gaff rig sail plan when used on smaller craft (say under around 60 feet). By using a short gaff with no tops'l, there is more luff length to the sail. With a longer luff on the lowers, the lower sails are able to perform much better when on the wind. As an added bonus, sails are not broken into such small units, so are able to be more efficient on all points of sail. As a further bonus, the short gaff arrangement permits a single halyard to be used with a fixed bridle (not a sliding bridle). With a short gaff there is no need for a separate throat halyard. The bridle legs are balanced during sailing trials, then permanently made fast at the best spot. Luff tension is thereafter adjusted at the gooseneck. As a bonus, the fixed bridle always keeps the gaff in the same attitude while raising and lowering. This works so well that all of the gaff rigs that I’ve specified for yachts under 60 feet on deck have a single halyard for the gaff. While it is possible to do this with a longer gaff, it works best with a short gaff. Certainly larger vessels can use the short gaff and single halyard, provided sails are not too large. As sails become too large to man-handle, a winch can be used for raising sail. Even on much larger sails the short gaff offers the benefit of greatly reduced weight aloft, and an easier job of raising sail. The short gaff - long luff sail is not my invention by any means... In fact, in its ideal form the short-gaff-sail is fairly close in profile to the shape of the fully battened elliptical plan form racing sails of today. The short-gaff rig was developed and was well proven on vessels such as the Dutch sloops, Bermuda sloops, and of course the pilot schooners that sailed out of Baltimore during the 1800's and early 1900's. The pilot schooners needed a foolproof rig that had superior performance, and that could be handled by a man and a boy. They were large vessels...! Applying the same strategy to smaller sailing vessels one can easily single hand a 50 footer. As far as their sailing properties, the improvement in windward performance is well documented among those vessels, and by my own experience having sailed with this arrangement on my own schooner Emerald . The benefits are to simplify the rig, to reduce windage, to reduce the work of raising and lowering sail, to increase luff length for better windward sailing, to reduce weight aloft, and to eliminate those pesky tops’ls. That said, on a schooner I do like to use a fisherman tops’l beetween the masts since it provides enough area to be worthwhile and is easy to set and strike. By comparison, gaff tops’ls are often more trouble than they are worth - another point strongly favoring the "bald headed" gaff rig.   What About the Schooner Rig? The schooner is able to spread more sail per length of spars than any other rig. This allows a generous sail area, while the center of effort is kept low down. On a schooner of any size I like to arrange for both main and fore sails to be similarly sized. This is done to prevent the mains'l from becoming too big to handle. To determine the size of each sail, one should try to make use of sails as large as can be confidently handled, and no larger. Much of what is written about schooners and gaff rigs assumes that one will be using a traditional sail plan with long gaffs, two halyards for each gaff, main and fore tops'ls, fisherman tops'l, stays'l, jib, jib tops'l, etc. Added together even on a small schooner, that represents some twenty halyards and other control lines. As an example of how one might simplify that configuration, Lucille and her sisters, Redpath and Benrogin have only four halyards for the lowers, and two for the fisherman tops'l. The total: six halyards... ! Simple is beautiful...   Redpath as Example We had the opportunity to sail two 34' schooners having exactly the same hull form and sail area against each other. One vessel had a "traditional" gaff schooner rig, with long gaffs, gaff tops'ls, stays'l and flying jib. The other vessel had a short-gaff rig of my design with exactly the same sail area. One feature of the rig I tend to prefer (as with designs like Redpath) is that the working sails are sized to be as nearly alike in area as possible, so there is no single dominant sail. All of these improvements served to simplify and lighten the rig and provided far less windage. The result...? Although both vessels performed more or less equally on a down wind course, we out sailed the "traditional" rig hands down both reaching and beating. With the short-gaff rig as I modified it, as compared the other vessel of the same hull design (but having a traditional long-gaff rig and gaff tops'ls) we could better their windward performance by around 5 degrees. What I had done is to eliminate the tops'ls and raise the throat of the gaffs up farther, like on Redpath and Lucille. The combination of better windward performance with a simpler, but still classic rig... it is a big success! Another bonus is that the simper short-gaff rig was far easier to build, to handle and to maintain. I liked it so much that I made an identical rig for my own schooner, Emerald . I attribute the improved windward performance to the following factors: Fewer sails, therefore more lift per amount of drag (reach, run or close hauled). Longer luff length on fore and main. Less running rigging and clutter (less than half the number of halyards) so considerably less windage. Flatter cut to the sails in order to maximize windward sailing. Hollow cut to the jib luff to allow for wire sag, so the sail still has good foil shape to windward. Redpath was yet another refinement of the concept, having been designed to take best advantage of the optimum rig right from the beginning. A further refinement on Redpath has been the use of a NACA foil keel. The combination of the improved keel with the taller and more efficient short-gaff rig will provide some 7 to 10 degrees closer sailing tack to tack (the "real" measure of performance) than does a more traditional schooner type having tops'ls, multiple jibs, a nest of extra halyards, and a long straight shoal draft keel. The improvement to windward has been accomplished without sacrificing reaching or running performance, and at the same time whilst improving the vessel's tracking ability on all courses. Redpath is relatively light in terms of displacement to length, and has a high sail area to displacement ratio in her working sails. This not only makes the boat fast, but also makes the rig ultimately easier to deal with, since there are no light weather spinnakers and so forth to fool with. For light weather sailing, the Fisherman Tops'l is kept very well controlled between the two masts, having a line at each corner. If one could say there is any single factor responsible for providing excellent performance on Redpath, it would have to be attributed to the amount of sail area provided. The sail area given to Redpath is able to be generous because it is located relatively low down, rather than on one single tall stick. A Marconi type of rig will ordinarily require a deeper keel for adequate sail carrying ability. One cannot make reasonable comparisons of course to vessels having a fin keel, spade or skeg hung rudder, and sloop rig, as those types will always have superior windward performance. What those keel and rig types give up in terms of off-wind sailing is considerable... Steering stability off-wind is compromised, as is safety in taking the ground, as is the ability to heave to gracefully, etc. The main thing is simply to define the type of sailing one wishes to do. If it is "round the buoy" racing, then shoal draft and low aspect rigs will not be competitive and thus they will be very unsuitable. Nor are they intended to be suited to that type of sailing... It is the windward leg after all that inevitably wins a round the buoys race. For offshore voyaging, relatively more shoal draft and lower aspect rigs will ordinarily make the most sense. Redpath, for example, is designed for fast sailing. On any course from a close reach to a dead run, using only her working sail (not allowing the Fisherman, spinnakers, or any other light weather sails), Redpath simply will walk away from the majority of equally sized Marconi rigged boats. For offshore voyaging one would be hard pressed to do better... Particularly if ruggedness, ease of handling, economy and ease of maintenance are of any import.   The Schooner Lucille Image, Copyright 1999   Other Useful Cruising Sails For Schooners: The Fisherman Tops'l On a schooner, the fisherman tops'l is an excellent tool, is easy to use, and provides plenty of area, so is well worth it. The fisherman tops'l is a thing of beauty and highly functional, without a lot of complicated rigging. It's like having overdrive... It's up where it can catch the breeze and it has a meaningful size, so that the reward for setting the fisherman is substantial. Of course, a Fisherman tops'l is not absolutely required, but it is almost silly to do without one on a schooner, given the outstanding opportunity between the masts to spread a large amount of sail without much fuss or bother.   For all Sailing Vessels: The Stays'l or "Mule" One might be tempted toward even greater simplicity, eliminating the staysail and outer jib in favor of a single jumbo jib. We can quickly see however that a staysail and jib combination are a bit better suited to offshore sailing, as follows: The most obvious advantage of the stays'l, whether it is on a schooner, ketch or cutter, is to make the individual headsails smaller and easier to handle. A much less apparent advantage is that the stays'l also provides for easy self-steering. A "steering sheet" led from the stays'l boom, aft along the windward side, and then to a tiller will give reliable and easy self steering. It's hard to believe, but this really does work...!! The gaff rig being somewhat lower aspect, lends good self steering to the boat particularly when sailing long passages off the wind. Naturally this statement must be qualified by presuming that the rig is of good design, and that a good hull form for self steering has been provided. You can see example vessels of this type by clicking on the links to the schooners, Lucille and Redpath , and the very fine ketches Grace and Shiraz .   For Nearly any Hull Type: The Junk Rig... Along with the Gaff Rig, the Chinese Junk Rig has much to offer in terms of simplicity, ease of use, and also in terms of safety, in particular for the long range voyager. For more information, please have a look at my web page on the Chinese Junk Rig .   Choices... Overall, subtleties abound in copious amplitude...! One cannot say one thing absolutely... there exist many shades of grey. A given boat design is neither good nor bad, but instead simply optimized for a given purpose. This includes the full spectrum from the all-out racing machine, to the square rigged clipper. These choices are just a matter of degree; of one's intended sailing; and ultimately of one's preference. One type is not inherently "wrong" or the other inherently "right" but instead are just differing expressions of one's preferred style. Therefore... there really is no argument with regard to keel and rig choices. In the end, the these various design factors are simply a matter of the owner's preferences being expressed in the type of vessel being created. In other words, once you know what you want to do with a boat, i.e. its function , only then do you have a framework within which to create and / or judge its form .   Image Copyright 1999   Other Resources... For further reading on self steering, please see the excellent book, "Self Steering for Sailing Craft, " by Dr. John Letcher. For further reading on the gaff rig, please have a look at " Hand, Reef and Steer ," by Tom Cunliffe.  

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"One detail which may be of interest to you and your readers is that many of the gaff rigs that I've specified make use of a single halyard for the gaff.  It is made possible by the relatively short gaffs that I prefer, arranged much like the gaff rigs on the Baltimore Pilot Vessels of the last century."

"As I have discovered on my own 34 foot gaff schooner EMERALD, with short gaffs there is no need for a peak halyard.  Luff tension is adjusted at the gooseneck.  The benefit is to simplify the rig, to always keep the gaff in the same attitude while raising and lowering, to increase luff length for better windward sailing, to reduce weight aloft, and to eliminate those pesky tops'ls." "On a schooner I do like to use a fisherman tops'l, as it provides enough area to be of excellent use.  The gaff tops'ls however are more trouble than they are worth (IMHO)." Michael Kasten , November 20, 2000

Gaff Rig Sailboat: A Classic and Timeless Sailing Experience

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 14, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

== Short answer gaff rig sailboat: == A gaff rig sailboat is a type of sailing vessel that features a specific rigging system consisting of a four-sided fore-and-aft sail called a gaff sail. This traditional design offers numerous advantages including simplicity, ease of handling, and excellent downwind performance. Gaff rigged boats are commonly seen in traditional and recreational sailing settings.

Understanding the Gaff Rig Sailboat: A Comprehensive Guide

Sailing is truly a timeless pursuit that continues to captivate enthusiasts worldwide. Among the various types of sailboats, the gaff rig sailboat stands out as a unique and intriguing vessel. With its distinct mast and triangular sails, this traditional design is both awe-inspiring and efficient on the water. In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the key aspects of understanding and appreciating the gaff rig sailboat.

The Glory of Gaff Rig Sailboat Design

At first glance, a gaff rig sailboat immediately catches one’s eye with its striking visual appeal. Unlike modern sloop or cutter rigged boats, it proudly exhibits an imposing wooden or aluminum mast that slopes aft at an angle. Attached to this distinctive feature are two sets of sails – a larger mainsail and a smaller headsail.

These sails grant the gaff rig sailboat unparalleled gracefulness while sailing by providing superior power in light winds. Due to their relatively lower aspect ratio compared to other rigs, they generate increased lift, resulting in remarkable upwind performance. This makes the gaff rig not only aesthetically pleasing but also an excellent choice for those seeking both beauty and functionality on the water.

Advanced Maneuverability with Gaff Rig Sails

One advantageous feature of the gaff rig sailboat lies in its versatile sailing capabilities. The unique arrangement of sails allows skilled sailors to expertly trim each individual sail according to wind conditions – adding an extra layer of challenge for those looking to refine their skills.

Furthermore, unlike more modern rigs where adjustments may be limited by complex systems, controlling the sails on a gaff rig boat is simpler yet equally effective. By tweaking halyards and sheets with precision, sailors can achieve optimal balance between power and wind direction without compromising safety or maneuverability.

Embrace Tradition & Classic Seamanship Values

Beyond its exceptional performance characteristics, embracing a gaff rig sailboat allows sailors to immerse themselves in the rich history and traditions of sailing. The gaff rig ‘s roots can be traced back centuries, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era when wooden ships ruled the seas. Sailing enthusiasts who appreciate craftsmanship and classic seamanship values will undoubtedly find solace in the elegance and heritage of this design.

Furthermore, the charm of a wooden or classic looking gaff rig sailboat is sure to catch the attention of fellow mariners and onlookers alike. Owning such an awe-inspiring vessel not only grants pride but also serves as a conversation starter, connecting sailors with others who share their passion for the maritime world.

Maintenance & Practical Considerations

While we highlight the beauty and allure of the gaff rig sailboat, it is essential to consider practical aspects as well. Maintenance plays a vital role in preserving its splendor. Wooden masts demand regular varnishing or painting to protect against weathering, whereas aluminum masts require periodic inspection for corrosion.

Similarly, ensuring proper storage during off-seasons or inclement weather must be taken into account. Properly covering the boat and storing it in a dry area contributes significantly to prolonging its lifespan while minimizing potential damage caused by environmental factors.

In conclusion, understanding and appreciating the gaff rig sailboat involves recognizing its unique design features, advanced maneuverability potential, historical significance, and maintenance requirements. By delving into these aspects detailed above, aspiring gaff rig sailors can embark on a rewarding journey that combines tradition with timeless excellence on the water.

How to Rig a Gaff Sailboat: Step-by-Step Instructions

Sailing enthusiasts know that sailing on a gaff-rigged sailboat can be an exhilarating experience. The distinctive triangular shape of the gaff sail gives these boats a classic look and offers unique challenges when it comes to rigging. If you’re new to gaff sailboats or just need a refresher, this step-by-step guide will help you rig your vessel with ease.

Before we dive into the instructions, let’s quickly discuss what elements make up a gaff sailboat’s rigging . A typical gaff-rigged sailboat consists of four essential components: the mast, the boom, the gaff, and of course, the appropriately sized gaff sail itself. Understanding how these parts work together is crucial for successfully setting up your boat for sailing .

Step 1: Preparing Your Boat Start by ensuring that all necessary equipment and tools are readily available. You’ll need halyards (lines used to raise sails), sheets (lines used to control sails), cleats, blocks, shackles, and any other hardware specific to your boat ‘s rigging system. Inspect all lines for wear and tear, replacing any damaged ones before moving forward.

Step 2: Setting up the Mast Securely step your mast in its designated spot using proper supports or partners specifically designed for your boat ‘s mast setup. Make sure it is properly aligned and tightly fastened in place – giving it a gentle shake shouldn’t produce any wiggles! Check that all mast fittings are secure and functional.

Step 3: Attaching the Boom Attach one end of your boom securely onto its fitting at the base of the mast – usually located near deck level – using appropriate shackles or other connecting mechanisms provided by your boat’s manufacturer. Ensure that there is ample clearance around you while doing this step to avoid accidents caused by swinging booms.

Step 4: Rigging the Gaff Insert the gaff onto the mast above the boom, making sure it is seated properly. Some boats may have separate jaws to secure the gaff’s throat – ensure these are securely fastened if your boat has them. Attach halyards near the peak of the gaff and then lead these lines through blocks and fairleads back down to suitable cleats on deck for easy adjustment.

Step 5: Hoisting the Gaff Sail Attach one end of your halyard to a designated point at the head of the gaff sail . Pull on this line, slowly raising the sail up to its maximum height while ensuring it isn’t twisted or snagged on any fittings. Once fully hoisted, secure the other end of the halyard to prevent accidental lowering during sailing .

Step 6: Securing Your Sheets Lead both main and headsail sheets correctly, ensuring they do not interfere with other parts of your rigging system or impede navigation around your boat ‘s deck. Check that both sheets run smoothly through their associated blocks – a well-lubricated block will help avoid unnecessary friction and jumpy maneuvers while adjusting sails .

Step 7: Tensioning Your Sails Now it’s time to achieve optimal sail shape and tension by fine-tuning your rigging setup. Begin with adequate foot tension along with proper boom height adjustment using available control mechanisms specific to your boat model. Experimentation is key here as different wind conditions may warrant slight adjustments for optimal performance .

Rigging a gaff sailboat demands patience, attention to detail, and practice. Each vessel has its unique intricacies regarding rigging setups, so consult your boat’s manual for specific guidance tailored to its design. Regular check-ups and maintenance will keep crucial components in good health for many smooth sailing adventures ahead!

Remember, safety should always be a top priority when working with rigging equipment onboard any sailboat – paying close attention to your surroundings and using appropriate gear is essential. Now, with these step-by-step instructions in mind, you’re ready to get out on the water and gracefully maneuver your gaff sailboat !

FAQs About Gaff Rig Sailboats: All Your Questions Answered!

If you are a sailing enthusiast or have always been fascinated by sailboats, you might have come across the term “gaff rig.” While commonly seen in traditional and classic sailboat designs, gaff rigs also possess unique characteristics that make them stand out from other types of sails. In this article, we aim to shed light on frequently asked questions about gaff rig sailboats and provide you with detailed explanations in a professional yet witty manner.

1. What is a gaff rig?

Ah, the heart and soul of classic sailing! A gaff rig refers to a particular type of sail configuration where the mainsail boasts an additional spar called the “gaff” attached at its head. This lovely triangular shape gives these boats their iconic look and distinguishes them from more modern masthead rigs or even other fore-and-aft rigs like the Bermuda.

2. Why would someone choose a gaff rig over other options?

Why settle for ordinary when you can embrace tradition? People choose gaff rigs for various reasons – perhaps they appreciate the aesthetic charm of vintage vessels or prefer to bask in nostalgia while cruising through gentle breezes. The deeper boom angle on a gaff-rigged boat provides excellent power for downwind sailing, making it a popular choice among those who enjoy leisurely sailing experiences.

3. Are gaff rig sailboats difficult to handle compared to other sail configurations?

Fear not, aspiring sailors! While operating any sailboat requires some level of skill, handling a gaff rig is well within reach for most enthusiasts. With its lower center of effort and multiple control points along the mast and boom, adjusting sails on a gaff-rigged boat might require slightly more attention but can also be incredibly rewarding once mastered.

4. Can I single-hand a gaff rigged vessel?

Absolutely! One-person expeditions are not solely reserved for modern sailboat designs. While gaff rigs may appear intricate, with the right knowledge and practice, solo sailing can be quite manageable. Just remember to take your time, familiarize yourself with the boat’s rigging, and maybe bring along an extra dose of patience – rewarding adventures await!

5. Do gaff rig sailboats perform well in different wind conditions?

Ahoy there! Gaff-rigged boats thrive in light winds or moderate conditions where their remarkably efficient downwind performance shines. Although they may not attain the same impressive speeds as racing yachts in optimal wind conditions, gaff rigs exhibit excellent stability and offer a smooth ride for those seeking a more relaxed sailing experience.

6. Are gaff rig sailboats suitable for long-distance cruising?

Indeed, they are! Many sailors have embarked on exciting journeys aboard trusty gaff-riggers. These vessels provide an ideal platform for leisurely exploration, offering roomy interiors and sturdy construction that can withstand extended stays onboard. So whether you’re planning a coastal adventure or dreaming of circumnavigating the globe, a gaff-rigged sailboat can be a splendid choice .

In conclusion, gaff rig sailboats present an elegant fusion of tradition and functionality that continues to capture the hearts of sailors around the world. With their distinctive aesthetics and solid performance characteristics, these classic vessels offer unique experiences you won’t find elsewhere on the water. So go ahead, embrace your inner adventurer, and set sail on your next grand maritime escapade with a gaff rig sailboat by your side!

Unveiling the Beauty of Gaff Rigged Sailboats: Sailing Through History

Imagine yourself gliding through calm waters, propelled by an elegant and timeless vessel. Enveloped in the beauty of nature, these gaff rigged sailboats carry a unique charm that has captured the hearts of sailors for centuries. Join us as we delve into the captivating world of gaff rigged sailboats and unravel their fascinating history.

The term “gaff rig” refers to a specific type of sailing rig characterized by a triangular sail known as a foresail or headsail, and a quadrilateral sail called the mainsail, which is attached to a horizontal spar referred to as the gaff. This distinctive design dates back several centuries and has been an integral part of maritime history.

One cannot discuss gaff rigged sailboats without acknowledging their historical significance. These vessels were once at the forefront of transportation, facilitating trade and exploration around the globe. From 17th-century naval ships to fishing boats dotting coastal villages, gaff rigged sailboats enabled humanity to brave uncharted waters and discover new horizons.

Beyond their historical importance, what truly sets gaff rigged sailboats apart is their aesthetic appeal. There’s something undeniably captivating about the sight of these majestic vessels with their multiple masts adorned with white sails billowing against an azure sky. The unique silhouette created by the long bowsprit reaching outward adds an extra touch of elegance that simply cannot be replicated by modern rigs.

One might wonder why such traditional craftsmanship still maintains its allure today when more efficient sailing rigs have become prevalent. The answer lies in the inherent romance associated with these classic vessels . Gazing upon a gaff-rigged sailboat evokes nostalgia for simpler times, harkening back to an era where adventure was sought after on wind-powered voyages across vast oceans.

But it is not just nostalgia that keeps these boats sailing proudly into modern times; it is also their practicality. Gaff rigged sailboats excel in maneuverability, as the multiple sails allow for quick and precise adjustments in response to changing wind conditions. This level of control makes sailing a gaff rigged vessel an exhilarating experience that demands both skill and finesse.

For those yearning for a hands-on sailing adventure steeped in tradition, gaff rigged sailboats can offer an exceptional experience. Sailing enthusiasts are drawn to the challenge presented by managing these complex rigs, honing their seamanship skills under sails that have stood the test of time. The satisfaction and pride that come from mastering such a vessel make every voyage aboard a gaff rigged sailboat truly rewarding.

In recent years, there has been a resurgence in interest surrounding gaff rigging, with enthusiasts preserving this rich aspect of maritime heritage. Various regattas celebrate the artistry and craftsmanship of these vessels, bringing together passionate sailors who appreciate the beauty and ingenuity behind gaff rigged sailboats. These gatherings serve as reminders that, even in the modern world, there is always room for embracing traditions with open arms.

As we explore gaff rigged sailboats’ enchanting past and present-day allure, we invite you to step aboard and embark upon your own journey through history. Discover firsthand why these majestic vessels continue to capture our imaginations while honoring the brave sailors who came before us. Embark on your own Odyssey across timeless seas under billowing white sails – where adventure meets elegance on an unforgettable voyage through time.

Mastering the Art of Sailing a Gaff Rig Boat: Tips and Techniques

Mastering the art of sailing a gaff rig boat is no small feat. It requires a keen understanding of the various components and techniques that come together to create a seamless sailing experience. In this blog post, we will unravel the mysteries of gaff rig sailing, providing you with helpful tips and techniques to improve your skills on the water.

Firstly, let’s discuss what exactly a gaff rig is. A gaff rig is a type of sailboat configuration that utilizes four main sails: the mainsail, topsail, foresail, and jib. The mainsail is supported by a wooden spar called a gaff, which gives this rig its distinctive look. Understanding how each sail operates and interacts with one another is essential for navigating smoothly through different wind conditions.

One key technique to master when sailing a gaff rig boat is proper sail trimming. Unlike other rigs where it can be relatively easy to adjust sail shape using modern systems such as in-mast furling or roller furling headsails, gaff rigged boats require more hands-on manipulation. By correctly adjusting controls like halyards and sheets, you can fine-tune the sails’ shapes to maximize efficiency and speed. Experimentation plays an important role here as conditions constantly change; finding that perfect balance between power and handling becomes an ongoing challenge.

Another critical aspect of mastering a gaff rig boat relates to understanding its unique aerodynamics. The triangular shape of the mainsail generates lift much like an airplane wing does when wind flows over it at the correct angle of attack. This effect propels the boat forward! However, unlike airplanes where pilots have control over their wings’ angle of attack using flaps or elevators, sailors must rely on skillfully manipulating their sails’ position relative to the wind direction.

When sailing close-hauled (or close to upwind), it’s essential to keep your boat ‘s speed up by properly trimming your sails and maintaining a close eye on the telltale signs of luffing. Luffing occurs when the wind spills over the front edge of the sail , causing it to flutter, and ultimately losing power. By constantly adjusting your sails’ position, you can prevent luffing and keep your boat moving efficiently .

Furthermore, in downwind sailing, balancing your sails becomes crucial for a smooth and controlled ride. To achieve this, some sailors deploy additional sails like topsails or spinnakers to catch more wind from different angles. The addition of these extra sails not only boosts speed but also helps stabilize the boat by improving its balance from forward to aft.

However, mastering gaff rig sailing is not solely about technical skills; it’s also about embracing the sense of tradition and craftsmanship that comes with this classic rigging style. Sailors who appreciate gaff rigs often take pleasure in understanding how every component works together harmoniously while immersing themselves in the historical significance behind this timeless art form.

In conclusion, mastering the art of sailing a gaff rig boat requires a combination of skillful technique, understanding aerodynamics, and an appreciation for tradition. By honing your sail trimming abilities while being attuned to your boat’s behavior under varying wind conditions, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a true gaff rig connoisseur. So strap into your harnesses and let the winds guide you on an exhilarating journey as you unlock the secrets of gaff rig sailing!

Demystifying the Appeal of Gaff Rigged Boats: Why They’re Making a Comeback

Ahoy there, eager sailors and maritime enthusiasts! If you’ve been keeping an eye on the boating scene lately, it’s hard to ignore one noteworthy trend: the resurgent rise of gaff rigged boats. These majestic vessels, often regarded as relics of the past, are making quite the comeback in modern sailing circles. But what exactly is it about gaff rigged boats that has captivated sailors and yacht aficionados alike? Join us as we embark on a journey to demystify their appeal.

For those less familiar with nautical terms, allow us to elucidate one key component: the gaff rig. In contrast to its more common counterparts like Bermuda or Marconi rigs, the gaff rig features a unique triangular sail supported by two spars – the gaff and boom – which are parallel to each other. This classic design was prevalent during the Golden Age of Sail but eventually lost popularity due to advancements in technology. However, recently there has been a resurgence in interest, and here’s why:

1) Nostalgia Meets Tradition: There is an undeniable charm and allure surrounding gaff rigged boats that instantly transports us back to a bygone era when tall ships ruled the seas. The sight of these traditional vessels evokes romantic notions of exploration, adventure, and remarkable seamanship skills from centuries past. Sailing enthusiasts seeking a taste of history are naturally drawn towards gaff rigs for their rich heritage and tangible connection to maritime traditions.

2) Graceful Aesthetics: In a world increasingly dominated by sleek lines and minimalist designs, gaff rigged boats stand out with their graceful silhouettes and intricate sail arrangements. The towering mainmast combined with several smaller sails hanging gracefully from spars creates an elegant visual spectacle that truly sets them apart from modern yachts. Gazing upon these magnificent vessels evokes a sense of aesthetic appreciation reminiscent of an art gallery on water .

3) Versatility and Practicality: Contrary to popular belief, gaff rigged boats are not just beautiful relics; they also excel in certain sailing conditions. Their ability to handle heavy winds with exceptional downwind speed and incredible balance make them versatile across a wide range of weather conditions . Additionally, the relatively shorter mast height enables these boats to navigate under lower bridges and enter shallower waters, opening up possibilities for exploration in areas previously inaccessible to larger vessels.

4) Simplified Rigging: For those who find complexity intimidating or seek a more hands-on sailing experience, gaff rigging offers simplicity without compromising on excitement. Compared to modern rigs that require intricate adjustments and technical expertise, gaff rigged boats offer a refreshingly straightforward setup. This enables sailors of all skill levels to easily grasp the fundamentals of sail handling while providing ample room for experimentation and improvisation.

5) Sense of Community: The renewed interest in gaff rigs has spawned vibrant communities centered around these timeless vessels. Enthusiasts gather at regattas, festivals, and yacht clubs worldwide to celebrate their love for traditional sailboats. The camaraderie among like-minded individuals fosters connections built on shared passion, allowing sailors to forge lasting friendships beyond the confines of the open sea .

As we navigate through these compelling reasons behind the resurgence of gaff rigged boats, it becomes clear that their appeal transcends mere practical considerations. Rather than being limited solely by nostalgia or historic reverence, their beauty, versatility, simplicity, and community-building capabilities all contribute to their newfound popularity.

So whether you’re a seasoned sailor yearning for a taste of seafaring history or an adventurous novice seeking unique experiences upon the waves – hop aboard this resurgent wave and embrace all that gaff rigged boats have to offer! Set your course towards an extraordinary blend of tradition and innovation as you embark on an adventure that intertwines the legacy of the past with the thrill of modern exploration. The allure of gaff rigged boats awaits, ready to sweep you off your feet and into a fascinating world where old and new collide in perfect harmony.

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15 Surprising Benefits of a Ketch Rig (and 7 Cons)

If you're trying to figure out whether the ketch rig is for you, there are a couple of important factors to consider. In this article, I'll sum up the most important benefits.

What are the benefits of a ketch rig? Since the sail area is divided over multiple sails, the ketch is more easily managed and is great for single-handed sailing. It offers more versatility in sail plan, and is known to handle very well in heavy winds. The ketch rig is an especially effective rig for larger boats (40ft and up).

Just a quick recap: the ketch is a two-masted sailboat that has a mainmast (front) and shorter mizzenmast (aft or back). Both masts carry a mainsail. The sail on the mizzenmast is also called the jigger.

Your mizzensail provides all kinds of benefits. There are some really creative ways to put your mizzenmast to use. Read on to learn what those are.

On this page:

The ideal rig for long-distance offshore cruising, ketches generally perform better in downwind conditions, smaller sails are easier to manage, easier reefing, using multiple sails allows for more control, more versatile sail plan options, you gain a spare sail, more balanced sailing, superior sail plan in heavy winds, comfort over speed, less stress on the rigging, variety of mizzenmast uses, the air rudder, free riding sail at anchor, incredibly fast in right conditions, disadvantages of the ketch rig, in conclusion.

All in all, the ketch rig is widely known as one of the best rigs for long-distance cruising . There are multiple reasons to back up that claim, and we'll go over all of them one by one below. But the most important reason is that the ketch is incredibly comfortable, both in handling, maneuvering, operating, and the ride itself. This increased comfort is largely thanks to the extra sail aft, the mizzensail, which provides a better power balance.

So who's it for?

The ketch is especially great for long-distance cruisers that face rough waters and heavier winds and are short-handed. For example, couples that want to sail around the world together, or liveaboards that go on long holidays or expeditions. It's also a great family cruiser, since you can sail a larger boat without needing additional crew members or having to operate humongous sails.

While with the Marconi rig the main and jib get in each other's way on downwind runs, the ketch rig has far fewer problems. The mizzensail and mainsail can work together seamlessly and are far more efficient with most points of sail, except of course when sailing very close to the wind. But even then, the Bermuda rig and ketch can go neck-to-neck and the gap in performance isn't necessarily enormous. Unless you're a racer, the ketch is a really good alternative to the Bermuda rig, and most people should at least consider it.

The ketch is a very good single-handed rig, especially for larger boats (40ft and up). Using smaller but more sails allows you to have more sail area, while it's still manageable for one person. Also, smaller sails are easier to handle in heavier winds . Splitting up your sail area is just a great way to keep things in check, even with a small crew of just one or two people.

Because you have more (and mostly smaller) sails, reefing becomes easier. There's less stress on the sails, and you can reef down gradually, in phases, moving through your sails one by one. This ensures comfortable reefing and results in less speed reduction.

Another great tip I've read somewhere is that you can even quickly drop your main when the winds come in. Instantly, you're storm proof, while maintaining speed and course.

The ketch rig has three primary sails instead of two. This provides all kinds of benefits, and there are a couple of really surprising ones, which I'll come to later on. But the most important one is that you gain more control. The mizzensail provides more control over your stern.

Also, with the additional sail, you get a lot more trimming options for all conditions, allowing you more precise control for each point of sail and with any wind.

The extra sail also provides more versatile sail plan options. You have a broader operating range. There are more sails to put up with light airs, but also more sails to take down when things get rough. You can reef in all kinds of different combinations, and even take down the main if you have to. Which brings me to my next point.

This provides A LOT of benefits. For example, if you need to perform maintenance on your main, you can simply take it down, and continue sailing without losing control or a lot of speed. The ketch can sail on all points of wind with the main down (or the mizzen or jib). You have a spare sail, which will come in handy.

The mizzensail has a major upside you just won't get with the Bermuda sloop rig. The mizzensail balances the jib.

Sailing "jib and jigger" means just using your mizzen and jib, and leaving the mainsail down.

I've heard that this sail plan is very well-balanced, and allows you to self steer in a way. You could theoretically even use it as an temporary alternative to your autopilot, should it break down.

Thanks to its more balanced sail plan, the ketch rig is a much more comfortable ride in heavier winds, and many sailors praise the ketch for precisely that. Taking down the mainsail, sailing just the jigger and jib, provides a sort of instant storm sail plan that at the same time offers a lot more control than the single stormsail you'd usually put up on a Bermuda rig instead of the mainsail.

I think it's clear by now that the ketch is maybe the ultimate cruising rig. If you value your comfort, the mizzen offers some incredible benefits. The well-balanced output of this rig and the enormous variety in sail trim options allow for a smooth ride in almost all conditions.

However, you do pay a (minor) price for all this luxury: speed. The ketch is inevitably slower than the leaner Bermuda rig. However, on a downwind run, the ketch will still satisfy: there's plenty of sail area to gain some nice momentum.

Reducing sail size means you don't have to put as much stress on the rigging and you could use shorter masts, making them stronger. The difference in mast length isn't huge, but the forces on the mast grow exponentially with length. So a bit shorter mast makes a big difference.

In turn, the stress on the rigging is also reduced, which can lead to less wear, resulting in lower maintenance costs.

Stress on the rigging seems to be the major disadvantage of the Marconi rig.

Another rig that's a bit 'softer' is the gaff rig . The gaff rig is better suited for inland, calm waters instead of long term cruising, but can be another good alternative to the uptight Bermuda. I have written about the advantages of the gaff rig in detail in this article (opens in new tab).

The mizzenmast and sail can act as several things and will be very useful to creative sailors. Some cool examples I've found:

You can use the mizzenmast and sail:

• Using it as a crane to load and unload cargo
• Using it as an air rudder
• Using it as your riding sail at anchor

The mizzen can be a great help in mooring and the likes. Many ketch sailors use the mizzenmast as a type of massive wind rudder, which is a great help when you want extra control under sail. If you learn to use the mizzensail, you gain an additional rudder, which increases control over your stern and can help you maneuver in tight spots.

You can also use the mizzensail as an alternative riding sail at anchor, although it isn't recommended since your sail will wear down due to increased UV exposure.

As I pointed out briefly before, the ketch rig is a bit slower than most Bermuda rigs. However, in the right conditions, it can be incredibly fast, especially with larger boats that run a well-balanced sail plan. If you are able to utilize the additional sail area and find a course with a good point of sail, the ketch rig can really ramp up.

As with anything, there is a price to be paid for all these advantages, and the ketch rig does have some downsides. I thought it would be only fair to touch on them briefly below. However, if you are able to look past these, in my opinion, minor disadvantages, the ketch rig remains a great rig for serious sailors.

They tend to be slower than sloops

The Bermuda rig isn't the most popular rig by chance. It is by far the fastest rig out there.

They can't sail as close to the wind as sloops

Although modern ketches can sail almost as high as sloops, there's a point where sloops are able to go, and ketches can go no further. However, I think that many recreational sailors won't push their rig to its limits, which means the ketch is still a good option to consider.

The mizzenmast takes up space

Extra masts and extra sails do take up additional space, and space is precious on your boat.

Most ketches are old boats

Since it is a less popular rig type, there are fewer ketches made than Bermuda sloops. The apparant result being that ketches tend to be a bit older, and are a bit harder to find.

They will be more expensive

Since there are less available, they will be more expensive - the additional mast and sails will obviously also increase your purchase. And it's my guess that most ketches are owned by people who know pretty well what their boat is worth, so it will be harder to find a good bargain.

Additional rigging

Ketches have a lot of additional rigging you just won't find on your regular Bermuda. An extra mast and main means additional sheets, halyards, stays, and so on.

More or less maintenance cost

I have never owned a ketch and I never had to maintain one, so I just don't know whether a ketch is more or less expensive in maintenance. The additional rigging and sails may drive up the maintenance cost; on the other end, the sails are smaller and maybe won't all need replacing at the same rate, which may reduce maintenance cost. Especially the fact that ketch sailors use their mainsail less will probably be really cost-effective. Also, the reduced stress on the mast and (standing) rigging, may reduce maintenance cost.

If you have more experience or information about the cost of ownership and maintenance cost of ketches, please leave a comment below. I'm always eager to learn.

The ketch is a great rig that provides comfort, versatility, and control while offering acceptable speeds and a large operating range. It's a viable alternative to the Bermuda rig, and is especially interesting for people that want to explore the world's oceans with a small crew. It's easy to handle but will be more expensive initially, although I suspect the maintenance cost of the ketch rig will even itself out.

There you have it, all the advantages and disadvantages of the ketch rig in one neat overview. I hope this was helpful and has provided some insight to help you in deciding whether or not the ketch rig is for you.

Seamus Scanlan

I once owned a “Morgan Giles” barrell built wooden sloop which I sailed in the Gair Loch and the Firth of Clyde: what a lovely wee boat that was ! However, that was some years ago and “Things Conspired” and I lost her … I Perhaps Life has changed for the better and now I dream of owning a “Miller Fifer”30 or 35 foot. She should provide live aboard accommodation, carry me through the canals of Europe and see me challenge the Med. Your article on the advantages of the ketch has has inspired and encouraged me greatly and I am sincerely grateful; thank you so much. Seamus.

Please enjoy a HEALTHY 2021.’

It’s a bit confusing and frustrating that you compare a ketch to a Bermuda. Ketch is a sail PLAN, Bermuda is a sail SHAPE. As is gaff, by the way. That rather beautiful photo you used is a gaff sail ketch rig. It gets confusing to newer sailors and causes a bit of skepticism in your accuracy. Otherwise, a well written article. As an (occasional) author, I’ve found that reading what you’ve written a week or so later in a very different font can dramatically help proofreading. A good friend also can’t hurt.

Fair winds and smooth seas!

I made the newbie mistake of buying a 12m used ketch without a survey as a first boat. It sure seems like it would be neat to have, were I experienced. But lots more reading to do. It seems mine is not just a ketch but I am told it is a cutter ketch because there is a space for a yankee. But I assume that is still expected to be slower than your sloop as referenced above?

in 1976 I purchased a brand new, built-for-me, 35’ Challenger ketch. On April 1, 1977, I moved onto my Challenger, which became her name, with my wife, 8 and 12year old sons who had first sailed the year before in a 1969, used, Cal 29. We lived on the Challenger every year from 1977 until I sold her in 1994. My boys, from day one could sail her in any weather, high or low winds or waves. We all loved her sailing on Lake Ontario, NY and Ontario Canada and the St. Lawrence River and 1000 Island and around Kingston Ontario area for 22 days in 1978 only docking for two nights and at anchor the rest of the time. Challenger, with the sails properly set could sail herself either across or down the lake West to east. My wife would sleep and I would sit up in the bow in the pulpit while she sailed. We oftentimes would fly a big light drifter in light winds and a staysail from the main mast head to the End of the mizzen boom. With 5 sails up we would fly. It was sad to let her go but Florida has lots of shallow water.

I appreciate the article as i am looking and trying to understand all the differences and advantages and disadvantages. have owned sloops and never even though of the different rigs as I felt they may be to complicated. I am to find something for some enjoyable cruising and will most likely always be shorthanded with crewing issues. I also appreciated Rehn comments just to make you think. Thank you! for sharing your thoughts

Gene Rossano

I am Gene. almost 30 years ago I sold my Challenger 35 Ketch that I purchased new in 1976 and had her trucked to Buffalo, NY from California to sail on all of Lake Ontario and into the St Lawrence River and the 1000 islands and some channels and locks and small lakes in Ontario, Canada. My wife and I and 8 and 12-year-old sons moved on her on April 1st 1977 and moved off the Challenger November 1st every year until I sold her in 1994 to move to Florida, the land of miles and miles of very shallow water. We sailed her every week leaving on Thursday or Friday and returning either Sunday, Monday, or Tuesday to head back to our home port of Wilson, NY, or later, St Catherines Marina, located in St Catherines, Ontario Canada. We sailed her in every kind of wind and wave condition that we all felt Challenger could and would take us home safely and well. My wife and my boys helmed her and tended the sails day and night in all conditions with every different sail combination that we possessed.All sails were hanked.

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You may also like, 12 surprising advantages of a gaff rig (and some cons).

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What are the Best Sailboat Rigs?

Some of the most basic rig choices are the sloop, cutter, cat, ketch, and schooner, among others. But how can we choose among them? The type of rig is often a choice that is based on your sailboat size, preferred layout, and the maximum size of sail that can be handled. Moreover, there are two main rig configurations: fore-and-aft rig and square-rigged. Rigging is divided into two different categories, the standing that supports the mast, and the running which manages the orientation of the sails and their degree of furling. Rigging forms an essential part of your sailboat and is therefore important to know what are the best sailboat rigs so as to find out which one suits your sailboat. Let’s see up next!

>>Also Read: What is Sailboat Rigging?

The Bermuda Rig

These tall triangular sails are called the Bermuda rig, or Marconi rig, and consist of one large, triangular-shaped sail that most of the time goes all the way to the top of the mast. In other words, the Bermuda rig has a single headsail or a sail forward of the mast. The main advantage of this type of rig is that it can sail upwind. Also, it has more power when the boat is sailing into the wind. Moreover, the single mainsail is easy to manage and the single headsail is easy to hoist and trim. The old square-rigged boats could sail with the wind behind them, thus the creation of the trade routes using the term “trade winds”. The Bermuda rig is a common variation of the Fractional sloop.

The Ketch Rig

The Ketch rig is ideal for a small cruising sailboat and is quite similar to the Cutter rig. However, the cutter rig breaks up the headsail area but the ketch rig breaks up the mainsail area into two smaller ones. In other words, on a ketch rig, you have two masts instead of one. The aft-most mast is called the mizzen mast and the sail is called the mizzen sail. Generally, a ketch rig can have either a headsail (sloop) or two headsails (cutter). Unlike the Bermuda rig, the Ketch rig performs better downwind and also performs great windward. The downside with the Ketch is that it can create confusion due to its different sail variations and extra sails. Lastly, due to its complex sail handling, downwind performance, and more sail combinations there are many experienced sailors that choose the ketch rig for long ocean cruising.

The Cutter Rig

The Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda rig but it has a notable difference; instead of having one large headsail, the Cutter separates its forward sail area into two smaller headsails. This rig type is very common for sailboats that plan sailing on long-passages. This is because the smaller headsails are easier to manage by a single person. Also, the 3-sails configuration allows for different sail combinations something that helps in harsh weather conditions. Often, cutter rigs have a bowsprit that emerges from the bow of the sailboat and supports the two headsail area. The Cutter rig is also great for sailing into the wind, provides balance, and is ideal for open-ocean conditions.

The Gaff Rig

The Gaff rig is an old rigging configuration and has more to do with the sail’s shape than the number of sails. A gaff-rigged sailboat hoists a 4-cornered sail instead of a triangular 3-cornered one. This type of rig is not really common anymore but there are still many ketch style sailboats that originally had gaff sails. The gaff is not really efficient for sailing upwind but it offers great speed performance, ease of control, and sail direction than the square-riggers of that time.

The Sloop Rig

A sloop rig has a single-mast and a fore-and-aft sail configuration. This type of rigging is quite popular due to its great ability to sail upwind and it’s also appropriate for short-handing. However, the sloop rig is not advisable for boats more than 40ft as the sails will be difficult to manage. Furthermore, a great advantage of the sloop rig is that it has a simpler plan that allows for fewer wires and fewer costs in terms of maintenance and repair. The basic sail plan needs two sails but there are many sailors that buy genoas, spinnakers, gennakers, wind-seekers, and anything to maximize performance.

The Junk Rig

This rig type dates back to the 10 th  century when the Chinese were sailing the oceans with a rig that withstood for a long time. They managed to create a different sail plan and it was clear that they were way ahead of their time. Nowadays, there are some sailors who think that this very old sail plan is superior to the more popular Bermuda rig and others. The main characteristics of junk rigging are that it lacks stays and shrouds and that is based on fully battened sails. Because of this full batten set-up, the sails are fast downwind, easy to reef, and self-tacking. However, without having a standing rigging they’re more prone to damage, and most importantly they’re not good for upwind sailing.

The Yawl Rig

A yawl is very similar to a ketch. The yawl comes with two masts, the mizzenmast which is smaller and sets farther aft behind the rudder post, and the mainmast. There are many sailors that find the yawl rig unpractical and not quite efficient. Furthermore, some believe that the small sail configuration hanging over the stern is an advantage to steadying life at a mooring. On the other hand, others think that the mizzen on a yawl doesn’t provide any horsepower or ease-of-handling benefits. In any case, most sailors admit that yawls are good-looking and have a steady stature but are not really preferred for their sailing performance.

The Cat Rig

A cat rig consists of a single mast situated forward and near the bow. Also, it carries a large single sail and has no standing rigging. A great advantage of cat rigs is that they’re very simple to sail and manage. This is because they have one large sail and no rigging, therefore they can be single-handed quite easily. Moreover, on large vessels, the cat rig design offers a considerable amount of salon space. As the mast is placed far forward, this leaves plenty of room for the cabins. But there’s a crucial downside: upwind performance. Unlike the sloop rig, the cat rig might be easy to sail but it doesn’t perform well when sailing upwind. In any case, one can admit that cat rigs are maneuverable, simple, and economical. Lastly, they’re perfect for short-handed sailing and downwind passages.

The Schooner

Generally, a typical schooner has two masts that are positioned forward in the sailboat. Unlike the ketch or yawl rigging, the forward mast is smaller than the aft mast. Also, there are one or more jibs placed forward of the foremast. Some schooners tend to use triangular Bermuda sails on either one or both masts. However, there are others that have gaff-rigged sails. There are some that still prefer the gaff rigging for long ocean cruising as it provides the ability to set more sail area on a given length of the mast.

However, the gaff rig is not as efficient as the Bermuda rig as it has more complicated rigging and requires more persons for sail handling. The gaff is a short spar situated at the top of the sail and allows the sail to extend back along a fourth side. Like this, it gains size over a triangular sail of the same height.

>>Also Read: The Different Types Of Sailboats

The Bottom Line

So, what are the best sailboat rigs? The answer depends on different factors and the choices you make are mostly a matter of one’s sailing preferences. There’s no wrong or right rigging and once you know what you want from your sailing experience and function of your sailboat then choosing the right rig for your sailboat will be much easier. Some say that the ketch rig is unbeatable for off-shore sailing while others say that the Bermuda sloop is the most efficient for sailing into the wind. On the other hand, cutters are great for racing and cruising but they’re not quite efficient to windward as a sloop-rigged.

As for schooners, they’re generally easy to balance, are powerful, and offer a great sail plan. But, they have two halyards per sail, no running backstays, and not quite good upwind performance. In any case, I hope you enjoyed reading this article about sailboat rigging and that it’ll help you choose the best rig that suits your needs!

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Gaff rigged sailboats

• Thread starter Tom Hamilton
• Start date Sep 5, 2002
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Tom Hamilton

I am looking at a Whittholz designed steel sailboat (Departure 35) that is rigged as a gaff rigged cutter. I will use the boat in the chesapeake and carribean if I buy it maybe even do an atlantic crossing. What are thoughts on sailing qualities of a gaff rig, ie tacking, sailing to windward, off the wind etc. I own a San Juan 23 currently and crew for ocean passages on a Benneteau 411. These of course are standard sloops and can be readily handled by one or the one guy on watch in the case of the 411 in the ocean. Thanks for your comments.  

Wanderer138

Gaff cutters The sailplan on a cutter is a lot more flexible than on a sloop, because you can set the staysail and jib separately or together, depending on wind conditions. On some gaff rigs, you can also set a topsail above the gaff for even more sail area. With the gaff down, the mast is shorter than a sloop, so you can squeeze under some bridges when others have to wait.As far as seaworthiness goes, gaff rigs have been bluewater sailing for years and years. My guess is that seaworthiness is more a function of the hull and keel rather than the rig.PeterH23 "Raven"  

Gaffers Tom; A gaff rig is not nearly as weatherly as a sloop, but they reach like trains. Also, gaffers are usually wooden spars, so the maintenance is more, but they are prettier. Depends on what you want to do, I guess.  

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what is wrong with a gaff rigged small boat?

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by bean surchwell , Dec 6, 2010 .

bean surchwell Junior Member

Pygmay's w.g.w. Gardener suggested sprit or marconi. Why have i not seen a gaff rig on one? The sprit sail doesnt reef easily. The marconi is too modern looking. and has extra leverage up high that a small boat could do with out. I am partial to a gaff rigg. What am i missing?  

Doug Lord Flight Ready

Modern Gaff Many modern mainsails have more in common with a gaff than with a marconi. Square top mains many times have the head of the sail supported by a diagonal batten-which could be said to be sort of a gaff. The F3 model below and the 16' Tantra(EXP-1) have modern versions of a gaff where both the peak and throat are adjustable -and the peak is further adjusted like an upper outhaul. Contrary what many were taught in the old days the rectangular planform has more going for it than the old style marconi rigs. click on the image:  

Attached Files:

Cherub banshee ambulance w-o ama's.jpg, sail%20against%20sun.jpg, _mg_0832.jpg, hydroptere.ch-11-29.jpg, mfoilerf3_14a_small.jpg, tantra x-rig.jpg.

messabout Senior Member

There are many gaff rigged small boats. A popular one that comes to mind is the Melonseed in any of its length iterations. Small ones are 13 feet, some are as much as 20 feet. Gaff rigs are powerful if properly done. The disadvantage is the weight of the gaff aloft and also two halyards to mess with. The outer end of the gaff falls off to leeward in many cases but that can be mostly adjusted out with tight peak halyards and boom vangs below. Lug rigs are simpler. Depending on how small your small boat is, or the intended use of the boat, there may be better choices of sailplan.  

gggGuest ...

bean surchwell said: ↑ Why have i not seen a gaff rig on one Click to expand...

peterAustralia Senior Member

from memory the mirror dingy is gaff rigged. I sailed in one a few times and it is a quite pleasant boat. Perhaps the downside is the number of lines and percieved complexity. Small boats historically had lugsails or sprit sails becasue the individual spar lenghts were short enough, so that when the boat was being rowed, these spars could be stowed in the bottom of the boat. Above a certain size, the idea of taking the mast down and rowing ceases to become practicle. This is my guess why the gaff was not used as much in smaller boats, the sprit and lugsails having small spars that can be stored in the bottom of the boat, not because they are better sails than the gaff sail. This is my undersanding anyway, .... seems to make logical sense... ?  

peterAustralia said: ↑ from memory the mirror dingy is gaff rigged. Click to expand...

CutOnce Previous Member

gggGuest said: ↑ Its a sliding gunter. One practical difference is that there is no throat halyard, so one string less. Click to expand...

RHough Retro Dude

messabout said: ↑ ... Gaff rigs are powerful if properly done. The disadvantage is the weight of the gaff aloft and also two halyards to mess with. The outer end of the gaff falls off to leeward in many cases but that can be mostly adjusted out with tight peak halyards and boom vangs below . Lug rigs are simpler. ... Click to expand...

Perm Stress Senior Member

Below certain size gaff with two hallyards and relatively high pressure of gaff against the mast is not so practical. If only because of forces required to hoist or lower the gaff, or tension in peak hallyard, which if made not from modern low-stretch rope, need constant attention. Regarding "The sprit sail doesnt reef easily." it is simply not true. Optimist rig do not reef at all, that's right. However, all that is necessary to make sprit rig reefable is to make separate rigging for sprit and use an independent outhaul for the peak of sail. Then the sail could be reefed conventional way from below, by tying some portion of sail in bundle. It is done for centuries in traditional working sailboats, like Thames barges, Kurronian lagoon fishing boats (I happen to personally know the master of replica, owned by Lithuanian Maritime Museum), etc. ...  

alan white Senior Member

A gaff can be miniaturized down to very small. However, mast hoops take a bit of work to detach from the sail or the mast, depending on how the rig is set up. Maybe that's why other rigs are used on small boats that are broken down for trailering each sail. Otherwise, gaffers (such as Beetle Cats) work well scaled down.  

Modern gaff design Paul Beiker and Russell Brown did a modern take on a gaff rig - it was in Woodenboat and called the PT15 (Port Townsend 15). It used a modern carbon fiber mast & gaff that was controllably fixed into place - allowing controlled gaff placement in concert with controlled mast rotation. Pretty innovative - and it did reef well - avoiding the problem of matching luff curve to expected bend in a normal marconi rig. They also did a comparable "standard" marconi rig for the boat, so they could trial them together. The real problem with smaller gaffers is that the sailor has to be mentally secure enough to handle being 5 or more degrees off the windward progress of the other folks heading in the same upwind direction. If you don't get mad when someone who was beside you is now drinking beer, while you are still thrashing to windward, go for it. -- CutOnce  

michael pierzga Senior Member

Perm Stress said: ↑ Below certain size gaff with two hallyards and relatively high pressure of gaff against the mast is not so practical. If only because of forces required to hoist or lower the gaff, or tension in peak hallyard, which if made not from modern low-stretch rope, need constant attention. Regarding "The sprit sail doesnt reef easily." it is simply not true. Optimist rig do not reef at all, that's right. However, all that is necessary to make sprit rig reefable is to make separate rigging for sprit and use an independent outhaul for the peak of sail. Then the sail could be reefed conventional way from below, by tying some portion of sail in bundle. It is done for centuries in traditional working sailboats, like Thames barges, Kurronian lagoon fishing boats (I happen to personally know the master of replica, owned by Lithuanian Maritime Museum), etc. ... Click to expand...

reefing.jpg

Perm Stress said: ↑ Then the sail could be reefed conventional way from below, by tying some portion of sail in bundle. Click to expand...

Naw... I hate zipper reefs. It was a fashion twenty years ago... Spent hours trying to repair the zippers...Bah... Humbug.. on any zippers any where on any boat.  

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I grew up sailing and racing the Fish Class "the" class for the Gulf Yachting Association right up until they got Scotts. A ponderous boat but a great experience-and loads of fun in a blow. It seems to be that the planform(if it was taller and narrower) of the gaff boats is and was superior to the marconi rig/bermudan rig-but the implementation in the old days was kinda slow.  

2004 Fish class fleet from fish class website-access thru Fort WaltonYC.jpg

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Yachting Monthly

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Cornish Crabbers appoints liquidator – reportedly owes £1m

• Heather Prentice
• March 20, 2024

Yacht builder Cornish Crabbers has appointed a liquidator following a creditors meeting convened by Managing Director Peter Thomas on March 13.

The Wadebridge-based Cornish Crabbers group, which specialises in the design and manufacture of glassfibre gaff-rigged sailboats and powerboats, reportedly owes over £1 million in bank loans and taxes and other debts. The market is currently tough for small boats although crabbers remain popular.

A notice in the government official journal of record The London Gazette on March 15 reads:

At a General Meeting of the above named Partnership, duly convened, and held at One Courtenay Park, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 2HD on 13 March 2024, the following determinations were passed as a Special determination and as an Ordinary determination: ‘That the Partnership be wound up voluntarily and that Michelle Anne Weir (IP No. 9107) of Lameys, One Courtenay Park, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 2HD be and is hereby appointed Liquidator for the purpose of such winding up. For further details contact: Jack Pinder, Email: [email protected], Tel: 01626 366117’

Cornish Crabbers was not available to comment. The group’s website is also no longer visible on the Internet.

Leading producer of gaff-rigged boats

The company that became Cornish Crabbers was building dinghies in 1973 when Roger Dongray commissioned a one-off 24ft gaff cutter to his own design, with traditional West Country looks. She caught the eye of traditionalists and she was soon a best seller.

The company was formed as Westerly Boats and later renamed Cornish Crabbers in 1979. By 2001, the group was the leading producer of gaff-rigged boats, producing 12 sailboat designs and three powerboats. The first boat was the Cornish Crabber 24 Mk1, initially a wooden boat, later built in glassfibre. The Cornish Shrimper 19 followed in 1979 and proved to be the company’s best selling design.

The Crabber boats have sweet, rugged-looking traditional lines, a functional, efficient, high-peaked gaff cutter rig and a large, comfortable cockpit. Below the waterline, a fixed-draught long keel with a cutaway forefoot makes for an excellent sea-boat for the size. Adventurous owners have sailed their Crabbers far and wide.

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