36 foot hunter sailboat

Marlow-Hunter, LLC

The 36 – one boat, two personalities.

The deck features a sleek, modern profile with large side windows allowing for increased interior light. The deck hatches are flush-mount, offering an enhanced look that complements the new profile. Lengthening the cockpit has allowed the Hunter 36 to have a cockpit that is a foot and a half longer than its predecessor. The cockpit of the Hunter 36 also features a fold-down swim platform that extends the already lengthy cockpit another three feet when folded down while the boat is docked or at anchor. Even with the fold-down swim platform, the Hunter 36 has a telescoping stainless steel swim ladder that can be easily accessed while the swim platform is up or down. This safety feature not only functions well, providing stable steps for re-boarding the boat, but also hides away, making for a prettier stern.

Extending the cockpit an additional eighteen inches allows for a larger and more airy master aft cabin that features more headroom, eliminating any feeling of claustrophobia. Overall, the interior has been enhanced with a richer look and feel. Enhancements start at the sole of the interior which features a hardwood flooring look that accentuates the true beauty of the Hunter 36’s interior. Corian countertops are featured at the galley with complementing stainless steel fiddles that not only keep items from falling off the countertops in a seaway but also serve as excellent hand holds for personal stability when moving about below. the interior wood used for the bulkheads as well as cabinet doors has been rotated 90 degrees so that the wood grain runs horizontally instead of vertically. Not only does this add a crisp modern touch to the interior, it also gives the eye the impression of a larger interior space. The salon is offered in two styles, the traditional U-shaped design or a contemporary arrangement that allows guest to face one another while seating five comfortably. The table also doubles as an additional bunk area for 2 people when the table is lowered into the bunk position.

The Hunter 36 is also available in a performance-enhanced version that will feature a deep draft lead keel, upgraded winches, spinnaker gear including a retractable bow sprit, a 42″ wheel,folding propeller,”flat top fat mainsail” for increased mainsail power, and the deletion of the swim platform to save weight and open the cockpit for a performance-enhanced feel.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Boat review: Hunter Legend 36

• Millie Diamond
• December 25, 2014

Our verdict on the Hunter Legend 36

Hunter Legend 36

Product Overview

Manufacturer:.

What’s she like to sail?

Having sailed most Legends since their introduction, I have complete confidence in the rig’s integrity. The 36 is reasonably well arranged for shorthanded sailing, with two-speed Lewmar 40ST genoa winches by the helm and the mainsheet traveller control on the arch. All other control lines, bar kicker and topping lift, are led aft to the cockpit.

She is lively in blustery conditions and heels noticeably, but once in her groove she strides forward with the log hovering around 6 knots. In gusts over 20 knots it’s best to drop the traveller car at the leeward end of the track and play the mainsheet.

She points pretty well for a bilge-keeler, once you get the sails properly balanced, but needs reefing early. During earlier tests, we maintained a respectable 5.8 knots at 40° off a 24-knot apparent wind. Leeway was evident, but not awful, and improved when we reefed her. She’s principally driven by her powerful mainsail, so I’d fit a third reef if planning an open-ocean passage. On a reach she flies, with the log usually showing 7-8 knots. Off the wind she tracks reasonably well, but the swept spreaders limit boom movement.

What’s she like in port and at anchor?

As with all Legends she has a wide and spacious cockpit with straight seats and a sturdy cockpit table. The mainsheet arch makes an ideal support for a bimini or cockpit tent for northern waters. There is a deep cockpit locker to port, with a step and a light, and a useful high-fiddled shelf for bits and pieces along the back. A fold-down helm seat forms a step to the swimming platform, which also features two lazarette lockers and a telescopic boarding ladder.

She’s well set up for anchoring, with a twin bow roller and a chain locker that contains a below-deck windlass. There are six sturdy cleats set within the moulded toerail, making fairleads unnecessary.

Down below she is beamy, bright, airy and voluminous – so much so that she’ll probably be the boat everyone heads to for evening drinks when the weather’s not so good. She shouldn’t prove problematic in a marina as she handles well under power, with no noticeable quirks other than a slight delay in response, due to the saildrive prop being a long way from the rudder. She should happily cruise at 6 knots-plus, at around 2,800rpm.

Would she suit you and your crew?

Legends (Hunters in the US) are renowned for their voluminous and comfortable accommodation. The standard of fit-out below wasn’t necessarily the highest quality, but is mitigated by a comprehensive standard inventory and many home comforts not normally found on a production cruiser of that era, such as sprung mattresses, top- and front-opening fridges, pressurised hot water, separate shower stall, wet locker, and more. Cabins and berths are generous in size and stowage plentiful, making her ideal for cruising with friends.

On deck her layout is straightforward and easy to work with just a couple on board. Sail handling doesn’t require a tame gorilla every time you want to sail, although the large mainsail takes a little getting used to and early reefing is advisable if you want to relax.

In all, she is a competent sailing yacht, easily handled and fun to sail. Although her wide, open cockpit and shallow coamings wouldn’t inspire confidence in extreme conditions, as a marina-hopping weekender she offers all the comforts of a modern, spacious seaside apartment with bags of room for guests. Guide price (2004–2010 boat) £59,000-£114,000

LOA 10.85m (35ft 6in)

LWL 9.35m (30ft 7in)

Beam 3.74m (12ft 3in)

Draught 1.25m (4ft 11in)

Sail area 67m 2 (721sq ft)

Engine Yanmar 3YM30

Displacement 6,304kg (13,900 lb)

Ballast 2,643kg (5,828 lb)

Fuel 172 lit (38gal)

Water 340 lit (75gal)

Designer Glenn Henderson

Builder Luhrs Marine

Class Association www.legendowners.com

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Hunter 36 Pros and Cons?

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I am looking to buy a used Hunter 36, possibly a 38' for use for mainly coastal cruising and liveaboard in Fla area. I would like to hear thoughts on the Pros and Cons of this boat. I am looking at 2004 yr models and newer. They seem to have large saloons and nice galleys. By the way if anyone has one for sale please contact me or if anyone wants to trade for a nice home in Lake Lanier area of GA take a look at my ad in the classified area of sailnet under Homes for Trade. Thanks in advance for any information, Joe  

Turf...that is what they are built for...comfortable family coastal cruising. Check out the Catalina 36ii and 387 and the Beneteau 373Oceanis for similar priced production boats that you may find equally or more appealing. I am not a fan of the Hunter mast rigging but I know some owners who swear by it and it is certainly a comfortable live aboard platform in either the 36 or 38. The athwartship aft double would leave something to e desired at sea, but is a comfortable way to give true two cabin room and privacy in weekend cruising situations. Good luck with the hunt.  

I own a new 2007 hunter 36 and they are much more than a coastal cruiser and would make a great liveaboard. The 38 is even more room. Don't knock a Hunter once you own one you will never go back to the others.  

seadaddler, I have done a ton of research and looking around at many boats and I think the Hunter is carrying the "old" hunter reputation with it, but it not at all like the boats of 15-20 yrs ago that werent made all that well. I make the anology of Bayliner boats in the powerboat field. For yrs they were awful boats made very cheaply but then they started to improve yr after yr and now make alot of boat for the money. I will get me a Hunter it will be fine for all I could want and seems to have the best liveability at a good cost. I would love to get a 38 but not sure I can afford it so I will be happy with a 36. Thanks for your comments turf  

I live on a 06 Hunter 36. It makes a great liveaboard. Pros and Cons.. Mr. Henderson come on board Hunter Marine in 2001. Hunter Marine was in trouble and they brought this fine gentleman to change the designs of the boats from crappy to good/great. Here is what he done. First he brought the line of boats up to NEMA standards Pros and Cons. Rigging. - B&R... made it stronger and better. Rated Cat A ocean. I have a Hunter 36 1999 model next to mine at the marina. The differences are amazing. It to has a B&R rig too but totally different. Traveler Arch . - Henderson didn't come up with the concept but he made it work with a bullet proof stainless steel arch vs plastic. This arc is so over-engineered I am amazed they are still making it this way. It also allows the helms person to adjust the traveler at the helm. This is huge especially if you single hand sail. Also the Bimini is built into the arch. Cockpit - Large and roomie. I love the swing down table. For those people that have short legs it is a great place to brace themselves when the boat heals. This is important for women to feel secure. The starboard tables are OK, read cheap, but one can always change them to wood if they like. The split of two tables is a nice feature also. The placement of the two jib winches next to the helms person I cannot say enough great things about this. The other production boats put the winches outside the helms person reach. Once again, single handling is a breeze. The extremely large port lazzerate. One can get lost in there. Holds the batteries and gen-set (optional). It is easy to get in and out, Has a light for night time and two shelves to put small items. Steering quadrant - Rack and pinion steering. No cables to worry about. Easy to get to. I put in a linear drive autopilot and it was a snap to put in. Steering this boat is amazing. Sailplan - They got this right also. Boat is so easy to balance that it steers itself. All the gear is top draw Harken and Lewmar. The boom is end sheeted to the arc vs other mid-sheet. With roller mainsail and jib when the wind pipes up it is easy to reef in. Points into weather within 20 degrees. Cons - When sailing downwind in light air it cries for a whisker pole and/or a Genoa/A-sail/spinnaker. Doesn't sail well dead downwind with standard sails on boat. Boat-speed is roughly better than 1/2 the wind velocity. Not a racer but not to bad either. Anchoring Platform . - Large anchor locker but not divided if carrying two set of anchors. Easy modification. Windlass that come with the boat is good. It is protected inside the anchor locker which is a nice touch. The roller anchor platform is made of stainless all the way to the anchor locker. So no chipping of the foredeck like other production boats. It is built out far enough of the bow so as to not ding the bow when raising or lowering the anchor. I have a Ronca and a Delta quick-set on my bow. I can lock both on the platforms with pins. Hull - Standard classic plastic but with Kevlar in the forward half of the underwater structure. Not many boat builders are doing this. However, the hull is thin above the waterline and I sure it will not take a beating for long against any hard objects. One thing I wish for that Henderson changed is the toe rail. I love the aluminium toe rail the 1999 model has. However, the rub-rail he put in its place is amazing. Great for docking. Tankage - Great for this size boat. Good placement and all are easy to get to. All are some form of plastic so should last a long time. The fill ports for water and fuel are in different spots so, one can never mix them up. Catalina puts there fill ports next to each other for instance. Rudder - Spade rudder. Great control and turns on a dime. Backing is so easy. Cons - BEWARE - This is the weakest part of the boat. Make sure you have the stainless steel rudder post. Earlier Henderson designs used fiberglass ones. They will fail especially in any type of grounding. Hunter changed it out to stainless after late 2005 models. Even with that said the rudder hangs low enough that if grounded, "YOU WILL HAVE RUDDER DAMAGE!". The good news, the way the rudder post and bearings are designed, no water can get into the boat. It is in it own separate compartment. Engine - Comes standard with Yanmar 29 horsepower engine. Great engine and easy to work on. Great engine for coastal cruising. However, it is not enough horsepower if out in rough seas. 36 or great horsepower is need. It comes with standard 60 amp car alternator (bad) and one rancor fuel filter. The fuel filter is R20 which doesn't have the clear bowl to see water and sediments with. Electrical System - Did some great things here and not so great things here. Electrical panel.. 5 stars.. Batteries.Comes with 2 x4D's..... however... no separate starting battery. The 4 D's are great for running the house bank in parallel but can run the risk of not having enough amps to start engine. With that said, there is an alarm that goes off when voltage drops below 12.2 to warn of low battery state. I put in a XBM battery monitor system to help me monitor my usage and battery state. Running wires in this boat is a snap. Hunter put in plastic PVC pipes to run wires anywhere you want. Not so great things are the alternator and the way they wired the charging system. Not the best way to do things. I will rewire the boat this fall when I put in a starting battery. None of the wires are labeled going into the electrical panel. Not a biggie but it would be nice. Thru-Holes - All the intake thru-holes are in one easy location. Next to the companionway. All are labeled, bronze with marine plywood backing plates. However, the strainers for the engine and air conditioner are too small. I have to clean them out at least every two weeks. Hunter went cheap here. I plan on changing out the engine strainer soon. Interior - Great layout, easy to move around in. Hunter placed many fiddles throughout the boat in all compartments so moving around while healed over or in rough seas is easy. There is a ton of storage on this boat. I am amazed everyday how much storage is on this boat. The downside is I cannot remember where I put things. The only issue I have with the storage is in the salon. The cabinets over the both settees are too small width-wise to place anything significant in them. Hunter put in a shutter thru-way between the V-berth and the salon. Not sure why they did this. Not necessary in my opinion. I would love to hang a picture or a flat screen TV in it's place. The V-berth is roomy with plenty of storage. Galley.. The great, good and ugly... Great :Layout, Force 10 stove/oven, dish rack with built-in drainage and fan, counter space. Good : storage for food. Ugly -#1 refrigerator/freezer. Hunter went real real cheap here. They put in a Nordic Cool campus front load frig. Optional freezer under the nav station. Uses to many amps, dumps all the cold air out when opening, and not adequate for anything other than day cruises. I wish they would put in a real sailboat refrigeration system. #2 Counters are built an unlevel counter with slight downward angle to the center of the boat. When I do any wash in the sink and/or water gets onto the counter, the water goes to the end and soaks everything there. They should have built it level. #3 Sink it is on the starboard side and not the center of the boat. Aft Berth - A real queen size bed. Sheets and blankets are easy to get in any store. Plenty of room and storage. Wish the hanger locker was just a little bigger because the air conditioner duct takes up some room. The hot water tank is under the head of the berth. On cold nights it is nice because it heats up the bed however in the hot weather, I have to turn it off when sleeping. I will have to insulate the compartment one of these days to keep the heat out of the compartment. Recommend Hunter move it to the foot of the bed under the storage compartment there. Head - Real nice and functional. Great storage. A real shower with a real door. No sink/shower hose. I cannot say enough about this set-up. Teak grate in the lav/shower area. Wet locker/storage room in this area as well. It is huge. I don't know any other boat that has this much room in this size range up to 42 feet. The head itself is electric. Standard for Hunter. It has its plus and minus. Only minus so far is the amp draw when out on the hook. It draws a lot of power vs standard pump handle. Also the water is fresh water. Again plus and minus. Plus, no bad smell from saltwater plus keeps the hoses a little fresher and freer. Minus, When cruising, uses precious fresh water supply. I will probably put in a Y-value for fresh water/salt water. Boat comes standard with a macerator pump, when one has the ability to use it. Interior Fit and Finish - Standard production boat. Nothing great here. Like all production boats, they use cheap materials where they can and try to present a good facade where they have too. It is not a Hinkley, Sabre or Valiant type interior. Hunter made it for the average weekend sailor and occasional coastal cruiser. However, having said that, it is not like earlier production boats, they have step up the quality and control considerably. Summary - I really like this boat. I should I bought it! Most important factors for me was it is a safe boat to sail. The boat is so easy to sail, that I can sail her myself with no problems including docking. The topsides are on par with most sailboats in the higher range class. If I want to add any equipment to the boat it will not be a major undertaking. The systems are easy to maintain and not complicated. It is not a complex boat. For a beginner, someone not to handy or just doesn't want a complex boat, this boat is for you. Since Henderson took over, the quality issues from earlier Hunters have disappeared for the most part. Like all production boats, there are always issues, some personal, and some manufacturing designs faults. Most can be changed if you want to dump money into the boat to suit your needs. Happy sailing, and fair winds.  

Very nice write up Mel! Thanks.  

Wonder write up Mel. Very good points. I will commit them to memory when I go and look at th 36's. Really nice... Thank you for sharing.  

Nice One For Sale Great writeup Mel. The 2003 356 model is virtually the same boat but without the drawbacks you mentioned (and I agree) i.e. the 356 has top loading refrig/freezer layout, solid wood sole, grain matched fiddles, lead keel (newer ones are iron) centerline galley sinks, etc. -And of course a 2003 356 (the last year of this layout) is less expensive. Guess what- I happen to own one and will shortly put her on the market, although I will try to avoid going the brokerage route as long as I can. If anyone interested or wants more owner comments let me know!  

Thanks Malrna for the gret review  

2007 H-36 I have a 2007 H-36 and we love it just the way she is ,no not perfect but to each his own. She is more than a coastal cruiser,I sailed her from montauk,NY to Florida all ocean,only one day ICW in NC and than ocean to Fort Pierce,FL.  

"However, the hull is thin above the waterline and I sure it will not take a beating for long against any hard objects." Lots of hard objects out there and it only takes one.  

Much better to stay at home. A lot safer for sure.  

Nothing brings out internet boat experts like the word Hunter, even if it takes 3+ years for their chance.  

From an '04 Hunter 36 owner of 4 months: Mel's awesome review of the Hunter 36 was one of the main reasons my wife and I bought one. Here are some things we found in 4 months of ownership... Electric heads aren't standard. Neither are roller furling mains. Probably come come with the Mariner package. My boat is the plain Jane one. The aft cabin bed IS a true queen size bed. You lie port to starboard. It is VERY tight all the way aft. There's not even enough room to crawl over your bunkmate to go the head. I can't sleep back there. :-( I'm OK if I sleep on the fwd side of the bed, though.) Changing the sheets is quite a process. You must lay on your belly and slither back to tuck in the sheets at the foot (port) side of the bed. *shudder* I didn't think I was claustrophobic... The aft cabin is too hot to sleep in during the summer. (No AC or gen on my boat.) We use the V berth. However, in cool weather, after running the engine, all that warmth is quite nice. The engine also heats up hot water for washing, the tank being under the berth. (We're year round sailors, living in Virginia.) BTW, the shower stall setup really is nice. Makes you feel quite civilized. We've cooked some great meals on the stove/oven. The oven has a really nice broiler that also doubles as a fair toaster for English muffins. The boat goes FAR faster than it has any right to go. We've clocked ourselves at 9 Kts on a beam reach in a 12-15 kt breeze. (With some help from currents.) The 29 HP diesel does a good job in bad conditions, too. In dead calm, you can do 6 kts all day. In heavy winds, in irons and a 2 kt current coming at us, we still managed 3.5. (On a 30 ft Hunter we'd been dragged down to a half knot under the same conditions!) Overall, we love our hunter 36, and it's a great boat to go cruising with for a week or so. Our next move is to become full time live boards, and we'll need something bigger. We're pretty sure that'll be a Hunter 456.  

I used to own a Hunter 36 also a 2007 model. I thought the salon sleeting was very uncomfortable. We always envied a friend of mine who owns a 356. His salon seating is sooo comfortable! Checkout a 356 before committing on a 36. There's a ton of them on the market.  

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• Sailboat Guide

Hunter 36 is a 35 ′ 11 ″ / 11 m monohull sailboat designed by John Cherubini and built by Hunter Marine between 1980 and 1983.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Thanks to Joe Wellspeak for providing correction.

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Sailing Errant

Life on gudgeon, a cherubini hunter 36.

Today I introduce Matthew Parsons, another inspirational sailor/livaboard who chronicles his adventure at Life on Gudgeon (blog URL is www.gudgeonblog.ca and he also posts pics on Instagram.com/ .) Unlike some of the snazzier, slicker sailing blogs, Parson doesn’t airbrush his experience. Reality unfiltered. It’s refreshingly honest and useful. Instructive.

In his own words:

I am a transplant from England… [residing] in Victoria [Canada]. The longer I stayed in Victoria, the more people I met who had made the jump to living on the water. This blog is about my attempts to join them.

I bought Gudgeon (then Wind Chime) in Dec 2013, moved on in June 2014, and have steadily been upgrading and improving her. My thoughts have started to turn to cruising around the world, but I have a lot of refitting and learning to do before then! ( Source: Life on Gudgeon )

Gudgeon, Parsons’ sailboat, is a 36 foot Hunter designed in 1980 by John Cherubini. She’s a solid vessel with clean lines, a reliable hull and rig, and a steady supply of projects. Parsons documents the ups and the downs, a healthy reminder that living aboard a sailboat isn’t all tie-dye sunsets and following winds.

Except when it is…

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Windblown adventures aboard a Catalina 310

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• Boat Type : Monohull Sailboats
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• Beam : 12'0"
• Length : 36'
• Net Weight : 13900 lbs
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25 Sailboats Under 40′

• By Cruising World Staff
• Updated: March 25, 2014

Catalina 275 Sport

“This is a complete package; it’s a good sailing boat and well-thought-out. It’s definitely ready for prime time,” says Boat of the Year judge Ed Sherman. Click here to read why the Catalina 275 Sport won Best Pocket Cruiser in 2014.

Beneteau First 30

As they approached the First 30 to conduct their dockside evaluation during the boat show, the BOTY judges may have been just a little skeptical of this performance-oriented 30-footer’s cruisability. But that skepticism turned into appreciation as soon as they stepped below, and they were downright enamored with how the boat sailed. Click here to read why the Beneteau First 30 won Best Small Cruiser, 20 feet and Under in 2011.

The Presto 30 is an innovative, well-built, good looking cruising boat that satisfied its stated design brief as well as any other boat the judges looked at, though it’s not what you might expect from an average cruising boat. Cruising World judges also noted that this easy-to-handle boat may attract new sailors to the sport so they can learn the ropes and then trade up to another model, an approach that’s important to the health of the entire industry. Click here to read how the Presto 30 won the Cruising Spirit Award in 2011.

Catalina 309

“I think that for the purpose it was put on the water, to be able to walk down, jump aboard, and simply go enjoy it on a weekend, the boat not only hit the price in terms of value but also hit the mark in terms of use,” remarked judge Alvah Simon, a world voyager. Click to read why the Catalina 309 won Domestic Boat of the Year for 2007 .

The J/95’s retractable centerboard and dual rudders make it possible to sail in just 3 feet of water. During our dockside visit, designer Rod Johnstone told us that he wanted to build a comfortable coastal cruiser that could keep people sailing by providing “high performance in shallow water,” and the J/95 did exactly what Rod said it would. Click here to read how it won Best Weekender and Domestic Boat of the Year for 2010.

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36 foot Hunter Anchoring Questions - Chain and Rope Ratio

• Thread starter drm1
• Start date Apr 25, 2021
• Hunter Owner Forums

Hi. Our 2005 36 foot Hunter has a 35 pound Delta Anchor, and has the standard Simpson Lawrence Electric Windlass that was purchased when the boat was new. It also has 100 feet of 5/8 inch nylon rope spliced to 30 feet of 5/16 inch G4 chain. I've found it a little short for anchoring, preferring 200 feet length so I can get a good 7-10 times scope when anchoring. So I've decided to use this for my stern anchor and will replace it with new for my bow anchor. So my question is this: I've heard that it's better to have more chain rather than less, but needs to have some portion nylon rope in case the anchor gets fouled and I need to cut it loose. Would 150 feet of chain (with 50 feet of rope) be better than 100 feet of rope and 100 feet of chain, or is there any benefit. Obviously chain is a lot more expensive than rope, so don't want to spend the extra cash if there's no benefit. Also, are there any downsides to have the extra length in chain? Any thoughts would be appreciated.  

The nylon rode is not a safety disconnect. Chain alone will not give you the elasticity you need to absorb shocks, much depends on where you are anchoring (depth) and what types of sea bottom you encounter. Here in the Pacific Northwest, for instance, I’ve equipped my H36 with 100’ of chain and 200’ of nylon rode on a Rocna anchor. Been anchoring for 10 years in mud and sand, dragging only when I snag an object or a kelp bed. Best non-biased advice and anchoring principles can be found at practicalsailor.com. Or you can read through the various opinions that invariably accrue when this question pops up.  

stuartsw said: The nylon rode is not a safety disconnect. Chain alone will not give you the elasticity you need to absorb shocks, much depends on where you are anchoring (depth) and what types of sea bottom you encounter. Here in the Pacific Northwest, for instance, I’ve equipped my H36 with 100’ of chain and 200’ of nylon rode on a Rocna anchor. Been anchoring for 10 years in mud and sand, dragging only when I snag an object or a kelp bed. Best non-biased advice and anchoring principles can be found at practicalsailor.com. Or you can read through the various opinions that invariably accrue when this question pops up. Click to expand

Claude L.-Auger

When using all chain you do not need as much scope as if all nylon. My H34 is set with 75 feet of 5/16 chain spliced unto 150' of 5/8 nylon rode. Anchor is a Bruce 17.5 kg (39 lbs). I frequently anchor in 25 to 30 feet and will deploy all the chain + 50 to 75 feet of rode depending on conditions. The lenght of rode provides the elasticity to absorb shocks. If anchoring in lesser depth where only on chain, I then also use a short rode with a snubber that I hook onto the chain to eliminate shocks.  

Claude L.-Auger said: When using all chain you do not need as much scope as if all nylon. My H34 is set with 75 feet of 5/16 chain spliced unto 150' of 5/8 nylon rode. Anchor is a Bruce 17.5 kg (39 lbs). I frequently anchor in 25 to 30 feet and will deploy all the chain + 50 to 75 feet of rode depending on conditions. The lenght of rode provides the elasticity to absorb shocks. If anchoring in lesser depth where only on chain, I then also use a short rode with a snubber that I hook onto the chain to eliminate shocks. Click to expand

Jerry Clark H356 SV Persi

I’ve got the standard chain/nylon rode setup you do, but after dragging a few times, I changed my anchor to a 44 pound Delta. Only time I’ve drug since was in 30 knots of wind with less than 5/1 scope. Moved to less depth, 7/1 some and no more dragging. Heavy anchor and some chain is my answer to anchor issues - plus dog I’ve it 7/1 scope whenever possible, minimum 5/1 scope.  

Had a 35lb Delta but dragged and plowed a few times, now have a Rocna 44lb, big improvement as it grabs hard and does not drag... Also only had 20' of chain before I installed the Windlass, and upgraded to 50' with 150' of 5/8" rope although wish I had 75' to 100'. I hook up a bridle which helps with the sailing and puts less strain on wiggling the anchor.  

Chesapeake Bay, 35lb delta with 50 feet of chain and 100 feet of nylon rode. Typical anchoring here is in mud, and shallow water (less than 20 feet). I've used that setup for a year, and had no problems (but also no real tests). I previously had a Fortress FX-16 or 23 (can't recall), which drug badly in a summer thunderstorm with 52kt winds, and failed to set 11 times in an atypically harder bottom in the Little Choptank one night after dark when expecting 40 kt winds overnight, which forced me to accept mediocre holding in an exposed position. Luckily I had recently purchased a FinDelta riding sail, which probably was the main reason we stayed put as I think much sailing at anchor would've pulled the anchor out (as happened in the thunderstorm at anchor). The Fortress is now my backup. If your boat sails at anchor like mine does, more chain is good (and nylon rode is good for shock absorption), and an effective riding sail (the design of the sail, and how you hoist it) will work together to keep you rock solid. A good friend is now in the Caribbean with my first FinDelta that he borrowed for the ICW transit in his H41DS and he sent me a check rather than the sail back. It makes that much of a difference, at least on my boat.  

tfox2069 said: Chesapeake Bay, 35lb delta with 50 feet of chain and 100 feet of nylon rode. Typical anchoring here is in mud, and shallow water (less than 20 feet). I've used that setup for a year, and had no problems (but also no real tests). I previously had a Fortress FX-16 or 23 (can't recall), which drug badly in a summer thunderstorm with 52kt winds, and failed to set 11 times in an atypically harder bottom in the Little Choptank one night after dark when expecting 40 kt winds overnight, which forced me to accept mediocre holding in an exposed position. Luckily I had recently purchased a FinDelta riding sail, which probably was the main reason we stayed put as I think much sailing at anchor would've pulled the anchor out (as happened in the thunderstorm at anchor). The Fortress is now my backup. If your boat sails at anchor like mine does, more chain is good (and nylon rode is good for shock absorption), and an effective riding sail (the design of the sail, and how you hoist it) will work together to keep you rock solid. A good friend is now in the Caribbean with my first FinDelta that he borrowed for the ICW transit in his H41DS and he sent me a check rather than the sail back. It makes that much of a difference, at least on my boat. Click to expand

Jerry Clark H356 SV Persi said: I’ve got the standard chain/nylon rode setup you do, but after dragging a few times, I changed my anchor to a 44 pound Delta. Only time I’ve drug since was in 30 knots of wind with less than 5/1 scope. Moved to less depth, 7/1 some and no more dragging. Heavy anchor and some chain is my answer to anchor issues - plus dog I’ve it 7/1 scope whenever possible, minimum 5/1 scope. Click to expand

jeff356 said: Had a 35lb Delta but dragged and plowed a few times, now have a Rocna 44lb, big improvement as it grabs hard and does not drag... Also only had 20' of chain before I installed the Windlass, and upgraded to 50' with 150' of 5/8" rope although wish I had 75' to 100'. I hook up a bridle which helps with the sailing and puts less strain on wiggling the anchor. Click to expand

In my case I am using it as the same thing, probably should have called it a snubber. Have gone with a home grown piece of 1/2" 3 strand braid that will work on chain or rope, tie and run to each cleat. Allows for some stretch to soften a good yank or change of direction.  

drm1 said: Yes I was thinking I would invest in a riding sail as well. How much do they run? Click to expand

tfox2069 said: The FinDelta from Banner Bay Marine is pricey at $455, but it reduced my sailing at anchor by probably 80% much of the time, and substantially reduces the strain on your ground tackle when anchored. It only takes me 5 min to rig, and I've used it in winds up to 40 kts. It is SUBSTANTIALLY built, and would be just fine in much higher winds, I imagine. Practical Sailor gives this riding sail excellent marks, and it shows. Others may have good experience with other less expensive riding sails. I figure its a relatively small price to pay to sleep better at night (literally) and I consider it part of my anchoring system. I spend enough time at anchor that constantly swinging back and forth got to be really irritating and couldn't be happier with the investment. Also, its cheaper than 200 feet of chain! Click to expand

jssailem said: I have found that anchoring systems are very much based on where you plan to anchor. 7 or 10 to 1 with multiple anchors is likely a big storm even. 5 to 1 with a good designed anchor and adequate chain rode plus anchoring in a sheltered space will let you sleep under most conditions. In the Chesapeake I used big fluke anchors like the Dansforth to grab the sand/mud bottom. Not much of a bottom to destroy the rode so a short length of chain maybe a boat length and 200 feet of good nylon line all was good. Here in the Pacific NW we have a few issues such as rocks, and pebble bottoms, Kelp to ball up your anchor, sometimes deep anchorages. All this has me carrying a 35lb Mantus, with 105ft of chain and 250 of Nylon line on my 35ft LOA 17000lb displacement boat. I avoid getting caught exposed in serious storms. If I was to add anything int would be too step up too a 45lb anchor. You can also get the effect of more chain with out the chain by using a sliding Kettle on your rode. @drm1 You need to evaluate your likely anchorages and then build a system to meet those needs. Anchoring with a 10-1 scope will make you very unfriendly in a tight anchorage with several other boats. Check out SV Panope videos on anchors. Click to expand

drm1 said: The reason I started looking at my anchoring system was because I had an engine failure late last summer in winds gusting 25-30 knts. Depth was 15 ft, so wasn't quite able to get 7:1 scope. With the 35 lb delta I kept dragging. So it's either get a bigger anchor, get more chain, or a combination of both. Figured I'd try getting more chain first Click to expand

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