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• Sailboat Reviews

A Look at Sailboat Design: Fin Keels vs. Full Keels

Details like keel design count when considering cruising sailboats..

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

When a keel tears away from a sailboats hull, it makes the loss of a rig or rudder seem like a minor inconvenience. History shows that its an uncommon occurrence, but because we now annually hear of such incidents, weve decided to take a closer look at keels and see what keeps the ballast where it belongs.

The International Sailing Federation (ISAF) Offshore Special Regulations devotes pages to helping sailors prevent and respond to a crew overboard incident. There is nothing about how to handle the loss of a keel or ballast bulb. Some might say this is because such occurrences are so infrequent, while others note that, if youre still upright once the ballast breaks off theres not much you can do other than blow the sheets, douse the sails as quickly as possible and attempt to stop any leaks.

When solo sailor Mike Plants Open 60 Coyote lost her lead bulb in 1992, Mike was lost at sea. Other adventure-sailors have survived near instantaneous capsize precipitated by keel loss. In 2003, round-the-world racer Tim Kent and his crew capsized when Everest Horizontal lost its ballast on the way back from Bermuda. US Sailing Safety at Sea Committee Chairman Chuck Hawley was aboard the racing sloop Charlie, on the way back from Hawaii, when a loud groaning sound led to a deep heel as the lead peeled away from the keel bolts and ballast headed straight to the bottom. This encounter at least had a happy ending thanks to the crews quick actions to douse sail. Apparently the keel had been cast with too little antimony (an additive that causes lead to become a harder alloy). The point here is that keeping the keel attached is as important as keeping the crew safely on board. And for the offshore monohull sailor, preventing a keel loss, like preventing crew overboard, requires some informed forethought.

A ballast keel on a sailboat is a classic example of potential energy poised in a balancing act. The buoyancy of the hull itself offsets the effect of thousands of pounds of lead or iron. At rest, gravitys attraction for the dense material strains against the buoyancy of the hull, and the adjacent garboard region is continuously in tension. Few sailors spend much time contemplating how keel bolts corrode and what cycle-loading does to the resin matrix comprising the garboard region just above the ballast. What is apparent, is that the attachment material, whether it be wood, metal or fiber reinforced plastic (FRP), must be able to support a mass of metal weighing as much as a small truck-and do so day in and day out for decades.

Underway, every tack causes the rig and sailplan to try to lever this ballast package free from the hull. And when the helmsman starts daydreaming about lobster for dinner and wanders off course onto a granite ledge Down East, the keel designed to handle sailing loads takes it on the chin. Its easy to see why experienced designers and builders lose sleep over their decisions about keel shape, structure, and what kind of safety factor should be built into the structure.

Its surprising to discover that with better materials and computer-aided design, we still hear about incidents such as the Rambler capsize in the 2011 Fastnet Race (PS, May 2012). Just as significant is a spate of smaller race boat keel-ectomies that have caused ISAF to send out a cautionary note to sailors around the world, and introduce new structural standards for race boats. Keeping the ballast attached to the boat involves an awareness of a chain-like set of failure points. And one of the most difficult decisions each designer must make is how to marry foil efficiency with a structural safety margin that covers the boats intended usage and the unintended use of the keel as a depth sounding device.

For decades, engineers and naval architects have had to contend with some racing sailors Icarus-like quest-a trend that prioritizes shedding weight and making the keel foil a long, thin appendage with a high-aspect ratio. Though not quite a flight toward the sun with wings made of wax and feathers, some race-boat scan’tlings walk a fine line between lightweight and structural failure. The challenge lies in attaching a lead bulb on a high-tensile steel foil to a lightweight, high-modulus, FRP hull. Interconnecting the dense metallic ballast to the lower-density foam/fiberglass hull structure is a true engineering puzzle. Part of the challenge lies in the dissipation of point loads (confined to a relatively small area) and how to handle the resulting stress risers. A stress riser is the point at which theres an abrupt change in a materials flexibility, such as where a stiff, fin keel meets the more elastic hull bottom. In FRP composites like those found in a balsa-cored hull, stress risers are a likely place for delamination to occur. Over time, these can result in the failure of the FRP composite.

The see-saw effect of the keel counteracting a vessels righting moment is a mathematically predictable energy transfer. Even the effect of groundings such as those that turn hull speed into a dead stop can be quantified. But its the cumulative effect of fatigue (localized structural damage caused by cyclical loading) and corrosion that are harder to pin down.

The term allision refers to hitting a fixed object such as a granite ledge or coral reef. Naval architects analyze the energy transfer and evaluate the stress and strain characteristics that occur. The recognition that the keel-to-hull connection must endure even more punishment than is doled out in heavy-weather sailing episodes is at the heart of how structural specs are devised.

Designers also must consider the jack-hammer-like pounding of a keel on a reef in surf, and realize that there are limits to the abuse a keel and hull can endure. With this in mind, its reasonable to assume that sailboat keels should be built to handle sailing induced loads for decades. It is the extra safety factor built into the boat that defines what happens when the sandbar is a rock pile.

What is harder to anticipate are the unusual encounters that can inflict serious damage to the keel connection. Take, for example, what happens when a sailboats deep fin keel is wedged in a rocky cleft and a good Samaritan with a big powerboat attempts to pivot the sailboat using a line attached to the bow. The distance from the keels vertical centerline to the stem may be 20 feet or more, and with a couple of thousand pounds of bollard pull, the 20-foot lever arm creates a rotary force that can spike to 40,000 foot-pounds or more. This level of torque goes well beyond what most designers and builders model as sailing loads, and its likely to seriously damage the boat.

In plain low-tech talk, extreme fin keels provide a valuable performance edge, but they come with their own set of downsides that every owner needs to be aware of. In essence, the more radical the keel shape, the better the crew must navigate.

A couple of decades ago, PS Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo ran a boatyard and had a client who liked to cut the corners during Block Island Race Week. His first spinnaker reach into a granite boulder stopped the boat and shoved the companionway ladder upward six inches. This underscored how an allision that causes the keel to stop abruptly transfers a shock wave through the entire hull. The resulting compression cracked several transverse members in the New York 40 and damaged the core in the canoe body near the garboard.

The FRP repairs had to be tapered and all delamination problems resolved. The moderate-aspect-ratio lead fin keel absorbed a good deal of the blunt trauma. Judging from the cannonball-size dent on the leading edge of the lead keel, it was clear that the impact was significant. The dent offered grim proof of the advantage of having soft lead instead of steel as keel ballast. New floor frames were added, the broken transverse members were replaced, and the boat was off and sailing.

The next season, the boat had another Block Island encounter, and only because the Petersen-designed New York 40 was a pretty ruggedly built boat was a second repair even considered. This time, an equally violent keel-to-hull trauma came from an on-the-wind encounter with a different rock. The extent of the delamination was greater than it had been in the first go round, and more extensive core removal and repair was required. The keel was dropped in order to check the bolts and the garboard. With the bilge fully opened for the FRP repair work, the repair crew made a pattern of the canoe body dead rise and fore and aft contour. As the glass work was being completed, they fabricated a stainless-steel grid that would spread keel loads fore and aft as well as athwartship. The new grid reinforced the keel attachment and returned the sloop to the race course.

Afterward, Naranjo and the owner discussed the details of the repair, including the possibility of hidden, widespread damage from the two groundings. These included the dynamic loads imposed upon the chainplates and rigging, the likelihood of hidden resin-cracking, and potential for more delamination and core shear linked to the torque induced by the accident. In short, any serious allision causes overt and hard-to-detect damage far from the actual impact zone, and these can lead to more problems down the road. When buying a used boat, look for a good pedigree, but also look for signs of previous blunt-force trauma. A good surveyor will be skilled in such structural forensics, and he or she will do more than comment on the gelcoat shine.

In the early days of wooden ships and iron men, a lack of dense metal ballast put less point-loading in the garboard region of the hull. Bilges free of cargo were filled with rocks or tighter-fitting granite blocks cut for more compact stacking. The principal of ballasting a vessel was to lower her center of gravity (CG) and create both an increase in the righting arm and a greater righting moment to offset the heeling moment created by the rig and sail plan. The keel also helped lessen leeway and would evolve into an appendage that added lift.

Movable ballast had a few downsides, not the least of which was its propensity to move in the wrong direction at the very worst moment. Even small boat sailors have found out what can happen to unsecured pigs of lead ballast when the boat heels far enough over for gravity to overcome friction. Whether stones, lead, movable water ballast, or a can’ting keel are used to augment the boats righting moment, a sailor must anticipate the worst-case scenario. This is when the weight ends up on the leeward side of the boat and a bad situation can turn into a real catastrophe. Fixing or locking ballast in place, controlling the volume of water put in ballast tanks, and limiting the can’ting keels range are sensible compromises.

Internal ballast, the ballast inside a keel envelope thats contiguous with the hull, is still seen in many new boats. Island Packet is an example of a builder has stuck with this traditional approach of securing ballast without using keel bolts. Its a sensible design for shoal-draft cruisers, and the upsides are numerous. These high-volume, long-range cruisers arent encumbered by the demands prioritized by light displacement, performance-oriented sailors. Instead, Island Packets combine a rugged laminate and a long-footed, shallow-draft keel. This may not place the lead or iron ballast as deep as the tip of a fin keel, but it does keep the all-important CG low enough to deliver a powerful righting moment along with shoal draft.

In order to deliver the high angle of vanishing stability (AVS) also known as limit of positive stability (LPS), designer Bob Johnson puts what amounts to an internal bulb in the very lowest point in the boat. This long slug of iron or lead (depending on the model) is then covered by Portland cement, locking it in the Island Packets monocoque structure. The result is a contiguous FRP structure spreading keel loads efficiently over a considerable amount of hull skin. Keel bolts and the infamous garboard seam are completely eliminated. This approach to sailboat keel design dates back to the Rhodes Bounty II and other prototypes in the production world of sailboats. Now over 50 years old, many of these boats continue to have a tenacious grasp on the lead or iron that they hold.

Encapsulated iron ballast is much less desirable than encapsulated lead, and its sad to see builders skimp on this. Iron, or even worse steel, has been used in many Far Eastern encapsulated keels. It works as long as water and the resulting oxidation havent caused expansion and cracking of the seal. Lead is also denser than ferrous metal, and therefore, the same amount of ballast will have a smaller volume and create less drag.

Encapsulated ballast starts to be less appealing as keels become more fin-like and high-aspect ratio. The reason for this is that the geometry of the support changes, focusing more load on less area of the hull. As hull shapes evolved into canoe underbodies with hard turns in the bilge, and fin-like keels became thinner, deeper, and with shorter chord measurements (thickness), the concept of encapsulated keel became impractical. The Cal 40, Ericson 39, Pearson 365, and a long list of similar genre boats signified the end of an era when performance racer/cruisers would be built with encapsulated ballast.

External Ballast

Performance-oriented sailors and race-boat designers quickly latched on to hull shapes marked by deep-draft, foil-shaped, high-aspect ratio fin keels. From the late 60s to whats currently glowing on CAD screens in designer offices around the world, keels have grown deeper and shorter in chord length, and bulb or anvil-like tips have grown more and more common.

The design development was sound, lift was enhanced, and deeper-not longer-became the answer to getting to windward faster. The challenge was not only in designing an efficient shape, it lay in creating an attachment means that minimized foil flex and twist, retained the low drag coefficient, and still had the ability to withstand an occasional, albeit modest, grounding.

During this same period, marine surveyors and boatyard techs began to see moderate groundings result in major structural problems. The classic example was the allision that produced a moderate dent in the lead at the leading edge of the keel tip. In many cases, further inspection revealed cracks radiating outward from a knot meter or depth sounder mistakenly placed just ahead of the keel. An even closer look often revealed grid damage or a cracked bulkhead just aft of the last keel bolt. Like the New York 40 mentioned earlier, this was a result of a shock wave radiating through the hull structure. As we learned in Mrs. McCrearys science class, Bodies in motion tend to stay in motion, unless acted on by an equal and opposite force. Fin keel sailboats encountering abrupt energy transfers,tend to endure more damage than their long-keel counterparts.

A forensic look at the Achilles heel of external ballast highlights a few pitfalls. First the good news: Lead absorbs impact well, consuming much of the imparted energy through deformation. However, the translation of the remaining energy from the metal keel foil and keelbolts into an FRP hull is where we often find stress risers, and point loading linked to material and hull shape changes. The near right-angle interface between a modern sailboats canoe body and its deep fin keel is a classic load-path hotspot. In the old days, fiberglass techs spoke of oil-canning or the dimpling of a large section of the garboard as tacks were swapped.

Today Naval Architects use Finite Element Analysis (FEA) to better engineer hull structure. Colorized graphics pinpoint load concentration, glowing bright red in the region where the keel joins the hull, the epicenter of the oil-canning. A common solution to coping with this high-load focal point, is to eliminate core in the region and to gradually increase the unit schedule (layers of FRP), or to add an internal FRP grid. Maximum thickness of a keel stub is located where the keelbolts penetrate the stub. In this region, the solid glass thickness is often equal to the dimension of the keel bolt diameter or even greater.

Laminate thickness at the keel bolts is only part of the equation. Just as important is how the transition to the general hull laminate transpires. A bullet-proof keel stub that immediately transitions into a core hull comprising two units of laminate on each side of the panel creates whats equivalent to a tear-on-the-dotted-line weakness. Transitions that involve sharp angles and marked differences in panel strength require a well-reinforced taper that spreads loads gradually rather than abruptly.

Occasionally, we see massive metal frameworks used in the bilge as support for keel bolts; these structures need to be carefully engineered to not create the same hard spot fracture points. When carefully tapered in order to gradually introduce more flex, the problem is abated, as it was in the repair of the New York 40 mentioned earlier. The stainless-steel grid built to support the keel loads incorporated a gradual decrease in stiffness to the framework. The keel was carefully mated to the underside of this grid to ensure full contact (See Keel Bolt Repair Options, online). As a result, the crew relieved the hard spots at the end points and made the transition to the more flexible FRP hull less dramatic.

For cruisers, the take-away lesson is that extra reinforcement, a long garboard keel-to-hull interface, and internal transverse and longitudinal reinforcement really do pay off. Keep in mind that the extra weight this entails is all below the center of gravity and contributes to the secondary righting moment as well as keeping the water out.

This is a big departure from the way many modern production boats are built. They carry a skimpy ballast ratio of 30 percent or less, have less structure to support the keel and are not designed to handle unintended cruising consequences. There are exceptions, and its worth looking at the keel design and structure of the Navy 44 Mark II and the USCG Leadership 44 (see PS, August 2012). These boats utilize external ballast and are examples of rugged keel attachment. They have a relatively long keel-to-stub garboard junction, the laminate scan’tling meets American Bureau of Shipping recommendations, and both utilize an overabundance of 316 stainless-steel keel bolts and an FRP grid to keep the keel where it belongs.

There are many reasons why were seeing more keel problems today. On one hand, light, fast, race-boat design pushes the envelope, and thats probably OK. But when mainstream racer/cruisers start to suffer from lead loss, too much of one good thing (high-aspect ratio) and too little of another good thing (reinforcement) can begin creeping into design and construction.

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• Digital edition

How keel type affects performance

• Chris Beeson
• December 2, 2016

James Jermain looks at the main keel types, their typical performance and the pros and cons of each

A fin keel and spade rudder configuration gives high pointing but can be sensitive on the helm Credit: Graham Snook/YM

James Jermain has tested hundreds of yachts in his 30 years as Yachting Monthly’s chief boat tester

The performance and handling of a yacht depends on many things, but perhaps the most important single feature is the shape of the hull and the profile of the keel. Over the years hulls have become shallower and keels narrower, but for many types of sailing this progression is not necessarily progress. Of the various shapes that have evolved, each has its own advantages in different circumstances. Here is a run-down of how they may fit your sort of sailing.

FIN KEEL WITH SPADE RUDDER

A low wetted surface area and aerofoil shape means speed and agility

The most common modern option, usually combined with light but beamy hulls with high freeboard.

GENERAL AND TO WINDWARD

• Low wetted surface and good aerofoil shape means good speed, high pointing and quick tacking
• Light steering
• Best designs can slice through heavy seas in reasonable comfort
• High volume, light-weight designs can be lively and tiring in heavy weather
• Flat sections can cause slamming
• Less steady on the helm, requiring more work and concentration
• Strong tendency to round-up when hard pressed
• Generally require earlier reefing
• Can be unstable when hove to
• Quick to surf and may even plane
• Can broach easily and suddenly
• Can be directionally unstable and hard to control in heavy conditions

UNDER POWER

• Handling is precise and turns tight and quick
• Some handle almost as well astern as ahead
• Limited lateral area so susceptible to beam winds at low speeds
• An unattended helm can slam over suddenly

FIN KEEL WITH SKEG RUDDER

The skeg running aft protects the rudder and improves tracking under sail and power

Similar to above but with some key differences.

• Skeg provides better support for the rudder
• Tracking under sail or power is improved
• There is less chance of damage
• More wetted surface so potentially slower
• Objects can get stuck between rudder and skeg
• Limited balancing can make helm heavier

The mass of a long keel is often more seakindly and will carry way well.

The traditional option, usually found on pre-1970s designs.

• Good tracking
• Slow, soft, comfortable motion
• Drive powerfully through short seas but can be wet
• Carry way through tacks
• Resist rounding-up
• Heave-to well
• High wetted surface area and a poor aerofoil shape, so speed reduced, tacking slow, leeway increased and pointing ability reduced
• Long ends can cause hobby-horsing
• An unbalanced hull or rig can cause heavy helm
• Track well and very resistant to broaching
• Very stable in heavy conditions
• Reluctant to surf (a mixed blessing)
• Carry way well
• Track straight
• Heavy construction can reduce vibration and noise
• Large turning circle ahead
• Unpredictable and hard to control astern

LIFTING OR SWING KEEL

A lifting keel enables beaching, but beware of stones jamming the plate

The ultimate shallow-draught option.

• A fully retracting keel offers shallowest draught
• A well-designed lifting keel can be very efficient and fast
• Grounding on anything other than soft mud or sand can damage an unprotected hull
• Stub keels offer better protection but are less efficient and prevent level drying out, except in soft mud
• Stones and dried mud can jam the lifting plate
• Internal keel boxes reduce accommodation space
• Directional stability is poor
• Early surfing and planing
• Control can easily be lost in strong winds
• Good performance and handling with keel down
• Directional control increasingly poor as the keel is raised

TWIN OR BILGE KEEL

A bilge-keeler will dry out upright on a flat bottom

A popular shoal-draught option in Britain, less so abroad.

• Shallower draught
• Dry out upright on a flat bottom
• Good protection when grounding
• Good designs are better to windward than long keels, almost as good as fins
• Pointing and speed to windward is reduced, considerably so in older designs
• When well heeled, waves can slap under the windward keel
• Can topple over if one keel finds a hole or soft ground

Modified water flow over the wing keel foot can give the motion of a longer, heavier boat

Once popular, now largely replaced with various types of bulb.

• Reduced draught
• Low CoG means good righting moment
• Modified water flow over keel foot means greater efficiency and gives the motion of a longer, heavier boat
• More likely to pick up lobster pots, etc
• Risky drying out
• Weed and barnacle growth under wings difficult to remove

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6 Most Popular Types of Sailboat Keels

If you’re new to sailing, you might be wondering what that wing-like object is doing attached to the bottom of your sailboat. Well, that would be called the keel and it serves some important functions so that your sailboat can… sail!

So what are the different types of sailboat keels? The most common types of sailboat keels include full-length, fin, short, wing/bulb, bilge, and centerboard keels.

There’s a lot of useful knowledge when it comes to understanding keels since they take such a considerable role in making a sailboat a sailboat.

Knowing the different types of sailboat keels can really make a difference when heading out on the water for a nice sailing session.

Quick Keel Knowledge

Having a sailboat without a keel means you don’t have a sailboat.

As a matter of fact, when a sailboat is first constructed and tipped on its side to attach the keel, or laying the keel, this is considered the “birthday” of a sailboat and thus the initial time of construction.

One of the more interesting facts about keels is they find their origins all the way back in ancient China, which allowed them to expand their naval presence all around the world.

Of the different types of keels discovered were the use of adjustable centerboards and bilge keels.

Now, a keel is an important part of a sailboat because it provides two very important functions:

• Converts the sideways force of the wind into forward motion.
• Provides ballast (i.e., keeps your sailboat from tipping).

We’ll get into these important functions of a sailboat’s keel later on. For now, let’s dive into the different types of sailboat keels!

Different Types of Sailboat Keels

There are several common setups for sailboats when it comes to keels. Even though these types of keels differ from one another, they ultimately serve the same purposes.

However, it’s important to differentiate them based on use cases and other unique characteristics.

1. Full-Length Keel

A common type of sailboat keel is a full-length keel, which uses length rather than depth to provide a sailboat with a proper amount of life and ballast.

When it comes to the location of the rudder on a sailboat with a full-length keel, it’s often attached to the aft (rear) of the keel.

There are several advantages of having a full-length keel. One is that they’re well known for keeping a straight and steady course more easily due to the length and surface area, which makes for a relatively comfortable ride.

Also, if your keel runs aground (the keel touches the sea floor), there’s less likely to be a lot of damage due to a spread of the load.

However, there are some disadvantages to a sailboat that has a full-length keel. Due to the advantage of it staying straight and steady more easily, it’s also slower to turn (tack) when the rudder is moving.

This means you’ll have a longer delay between the turn of the rudder and the turn of the sailboat. Also, sailboats with a full-length keel are a bit slower than others due to the larger surface area dragging against the water.

2. Fin Keel

Another very common type of sailboat keel is a fin keel, which you’ll most likely find on more modern sailboats.

A fin keel has less surface area touching the water when compared to a full-length keel due to it taking on the shape of a… well a fin! This fin, however, sticks out of the bottom of the boat.

Just like the full-length keel, there are some advantages to having a fin keel on your sailboat.

The most obvious one when sailing on a boat with a fin keel is the speed since the fin keel has less surface area and a better airfoil shape just like a wing on an airplane.

A fin keel also provides for a faster response when tacking, which is great if you need to turn quickly.

There are also some issues with having a sailboat with a fin keel. One is that if you have high-powered winds hitting your sails, it’s likely you’ll feel the tilt of your sailboat relatively more than with a full-length keel. This is especially true for different types of sails .

Also, since the tacking is more responsive, you’ll need to spend extra attention on the track of the sailboat as you sail along. With a fin keel, you definitely need to be on high alert at times.

3. Wing/Bulb Keel

Wing/bulb keels are another type of sailboat keel that can be found.

As the name suggests, they take the shape of a wing at the very bottom of the keel and also can have a fat bulb centered at the middle-bottom of the wing. These types of sailboat keels are more often found are longer and heavier boats.

A boat that uses a wing or bulb keel has several advantages that other boats don’t have. For one, it provides a boat with greater efficiency due to a modified water flow that benefits the forward motion of larger boats.

It’s also relatively smaller in terms of surface area and quite hydrodynamic, so there’s reduced friction between the keel and the dragging water.

Similar to the fin keel, the wing or bulb keel has disadvantages related to having to spend greater attention when at the help due to a more responsive tack as well as being susceptible to heavy tilting during relatively strong incoming winds.

4. Shoal Keel

The shoal keel is a type of sailboat keel that’s virtually the same as a fin keel, only it’s a bit more shallow.

Due to it being less deep than a fin keel, it has the advantage of being better able at maneuvering around shallow areas. However, since it does have a smaller surface area it’s much more likely to tilt easier when the wind starts to pick up.

5. Bilge Keel

Bilge keels are a special type of sailboat keel due to them coming in pairs.

When a sailboat has a bilge keel, there will be two fins that stick out at the same angle from the bottom of the hull. Think of the fins of a shark and how they stick out at an angle from the bottom of the body.

There are some nice advantages of having a bilge keel on your sailboat. For one, they allow your sailboat to traverse through shallow water without going aground.

Also, if you let the boat dry out on land, it’s very convenient to simply let your sailboat sit on the fins of the bilge keel.

Some of the disadvantages of having a bilge keel on your sailboat include being difficult to free if ever aground since they might get stuck and not being as effective in reducing sideways slippage (leeway) underwater.

They also produce a lot of drag due to having a large wetted surface, which makes it difficult to sail at greater speeds.

6. Centerboard

Centerboards are another special type of sailboat keel because they can be lowered and raised mechanically. Being able to extend or retract a sailboat’s keel means your sailboat’s less likely to run aground, which makes it a fantastic option for coastal and offshore sailing.

One of the main advantages to having a centerboard is having the ability to retract it when entering shallow water, removing the chance of running aground.

Since you can effectively increase or decrease the surface area of your keel at will, you’ll be able to reduce draft and wetted surface resulting in finer control of the lateral resistance of your keel.

However, there are a few downsides to having a centerboard compared to virtually every other type of sailboat keel. One issue is that they’re rather difficult to maintain.

Another is that they have a ballast that is closer to the core of the boat resulting in the need to increase your sailboat’s ballast displacement. All of this ends up being a headache!

Keels Move a Sailboat Forward

How a keel is able to convert the force of sideways winds to forward motion is based in the science of hydrodynamics, similar to how airplane wings work based on aerodynamics . Essentially what happens is:

• The wind hits the sails at an angle
• The wind force causes the sailboat to tip
• The keel resists the lateral part of the wind force
• Energy from the angle portion of the wind force transfers to forward motion

This explanation is pretty basic, but should hopefully provide a clear insight into how a sailboat is able to produce forward motion thanks to the keel.

Sailing Ballast

One of the most important purposes of a keel is to provide ballast for a boat. Essentially, sailing ballast is the ability to resist the lateral forces of the wind based on the weight and size of the keel. As a matter of fact, this is a major reason why step 4 in the above list is able to produce forward motion.

Now, most keels are known to be made out of cast iron, steel, lead, and even concrete due to these materials being high in density. Back in the day during “olden times”, decent keels were made out of stone and sand.

When a keel has too little ballast, a sailboat tends to tip (heel) too much during high winds. However, if the keel has too much ballast, the sailboat is at risk of capsizing. That’s why a proper amount of ballast is required for light and heavy winds.

There are multiple ways of creating ballast on a sailboat. Apart from having a high-density keel, your sailboat could have a water ballast which allows you to adjust a certain amount of water sitting in your hull.

Another way is “live ballast”, which pretty much means the excess weight on the sailboat produced by us sailors.

Positioning dense weight below the hull to produce good ballast is important, which is why keels are the perfect place to put it.

In the end, proper ballast provides stability and speed for all types of sailboats and is an essential function of a keel.

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Sailboat Keel Types: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 25, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short Answer: Sailboat Keel Types

There are several types of sailboat keels, including full keel, fin keel, wing keel, bulb keel, and daggerboard. Each type provides different characteristics in terms of stability, maneuverability, and performance. Sailors choose the keel type based on their sailing preferences and intended usage of the boat.

Understanding Sailboat Keel Types: A Comprehensive Guide

As any avid sailor can testify, understanding the different sailboat keel types is paramount to a successful and pleasurable sailing experience. A sailboat’s keel acts as its foundation, providing stability, preventing sideways drift, and enhancing overall performance. With various keel options available in the market, it can be quite overwhelming for newcomers or even seasoned sailors to grasp the nuances of each type.

In this comprehensive guide, we aim to unravel the mystery surrounding sailboat keels. From traditional full keels to modern fin keels and everything in between, let’s embark on a journey through their characteristics, advantages, disadvantages, and their impact on sailing dynamics.

1. Full Keel:

Let’s start with the old-school favorite – the full keel. As its name suggests, this keel extends from bow to stern and offers exceptional stability due to its large surface area below the waterline. The long length also promotes tracking ability – keeping your boat moving in a straight line without much effort. Although typically found on older vessels or those designed for long-distance cruising rather than racing, full keels excel in handling heavy weather conditions and provide an overall smooth ride through choppy waters.

However, there is a trade-off when it comes to maneuverability. The deep draft can restrict access to shallower areas and make tacking (changing direction by turning into the wind) more demanding. Additionally, due to their shape and size, full keels may sacrifice some speed potential compared to their sleeker counterparts.

2. Fin Keel:

Enter modernity – the fin keel revolutionized sailing dynamics when it was introduced decades ago and remains one of today’s most popular choices among sailors seeking performance-oriented vessels. This relatively narrow (or “fin-like”) appendage protrudes deep below the hull and serves as both a counterbalance against sideways forces and a pivot point for agile maneuvers.

The fin keel’s streamlined design offers enhanced speed, better upwind capabilities, and improved responsiveness. Sailors planning to participate in racing events or seeking a thrill-seeking sailing experience often favor this type of keel. Moreover, the reduced draft allows for access to shallower waters – perfect for exploring coves or venturing closer to shore.

However, it’s essential to recognize that while fin keels excel in speed and maneuverability, stability can be compromised. A narrow base may result in more heel (tilting) when exposed to strong crosswinds, demanding careful attention from sailors. Furthermore, grounding risks are higher due to the shallower depth.

3. Winged Keel:

For those looking for a middle ground between full keels and fin keels, winged keels provide an intriguing compromise. Originating from the America’s Cup yacht races during the 1980s and 1990s, these unique designs feature additional horizontal wings near the bottom of the main keel shaft.

Their purpose? To improve stability by effectively increasing the lateral surface area without significantly increasing draft. This innovative approach enhances windward performance while maintaining maneuverability and reducing heeling.

4. Bulb Keel:

The bulb keel is another darling of modern sailboat design – especially prevalent among cruising boats aiming for optimal balance between cruising comfort and performance capabilities. These keels utilize a large torpedo-shaped bulb at their base, which concentrates weight lower down for increased stability while reducing overall drag.

Bulb keels offer excellent upwind performance, advanced tracking ability, and minimal lateral movement when navigating waves or choppy seas – all qualities keenly sought after by bluewater cruisers or liveaboard sailors longing for long voyages with maximum safety and comfort.

5. Swing Keel/Centreboard:

Now let’s discuss something adaptable – swing keels (also known as centerboards). This versatile option provides flexibility in both deep water sailing and shallow anchorage areas. Swing keels can be raised or lowered as needed, allowing sailors to decrease draft in shoal waters and subsequently improve maneuverability, while also providing deeper draw for enhanced upwind performance on open seas.

The ability to retract the keel provides opportunities for exploring hidden bays, rivers, or other areas inaccessible to boats with fixed keels. However, this convenience comes with a downside. The mechanism required for raising and lowering the keel may add weight to the boat and increase maintenance requirements.

To conclude, understanding sailboat keel types is crucial when choosing a vessel that aligns with your sailing goals and needs. Whether you prioritize stability, speed, maneuverability, or versatility depends on where and how you envision your nautical adventures unfolding. We hope this comprehensive guide has shed light on the various options available in their witty and clever explanations – setting you on a course towards well-informed decision making when it comes to sailboat keels.

Choosing the Right Sailboat Keel Type for Your Needs: Step-by-Step Process

Purchasing a sailboat is an exciting venture, but it can also be quite overwhelming when faced with the multitude of options available. One crucial decision to make is selecting the right keel type for your sailing needs. The keel plays a vital role in determining the stability, performance, and maneuverability of your sailboat. Hence, understanding the various keel types and their features will help you make an informed decision. In this blog post, we will take you through a step-by-step process to choose the ideal sailboat keel type tailored to your specific requirements.

Step 1: Assess Your Sailing Goals Before delving into technical details, it’s important to assess your sailing goals and preferences. Are you looking for a vessel suitable for racing or one geared towards leisurely family outings? Do you plan on venturing into shallow waters or embarking on long offshore trips? Determining your primary sailing objectives will provide essential insights that shape your keel choice.

Step 2: Understand Different Keel Types Next, let’s explore the common types of sailboat keels:

1. Fin Keel: Also called a modern fin keel with a bulb, this design offers excellent performance and stability even in strong winds. It reduces drag significantly due to its sleek profile while enabling better upwind pointing ability.

2. Full Keel: A traditional full keel provides exceptional directional stability but may compromise maneuverability. Ideal for offshore cruising, it offers reduced rolling motion and enhanced safety during heavy weather conditions.

3. Wing/Daggerboard Keel: This versatile configuration combines aspects of both fixed keels and centerboards/daggerboards by retracting partially or completely when needed. This allows maximum flexibility when navigating shallow waters or adjusting for varying wind conditions.

4. Bilge Keel: Employed mainly in smaller boats, bilge keels consist of two shorter keel sections placed on either side of the hull. This design enhances stability at rest and allows for grounding without damage.

Step 3: Assess Pros and Cons Now that you understand the different keel types, it’s time to evaluate their pros and cons based on your sailing objectives:

– Fin Keel: Pros: Excellent upwind performance, great stability, higher speed potential. Cons: Vulnerable in shallow waters, reduced directional stability when not under sail.

– Full Keel: Pros: Superior directional stability, excellent resistance to leeway (sideways movement), better roll dampening in heavy conditions. Cons: Lower maneuverability in tight spaces or strong winds, reduced speed potential.

– Wing/Daggerboard Keel: Pros: Versatile and adaptable to changing conditions, improved windward performance when centerboard is down. Cons: Higher maintenance requirements compared to fixed keels.

– Bilge Keel: Pros: Enhanced stability at rest, shallow draft capability for exploring shallower waterways. Cons: Reduced pointing ability and performance, may experience more leeway compared to other keels.

Step 4: Seek Expert Advice If you’re still unsure about which keel type aligns best with your needs after assessing the pros and cons, consider reaching out to a knowledgeable yacht broker or marine expert. Their expertise can assist you in making an informed decision based on factors such as boat size, intended usage area (inland lakes vs. open ocean), and personal preferences.

Step 5: Test Sailboats & Consider Trade-offs Once you have narrowed down your options based on previous steps’ evaluation criteria, take the opportunity to test-sail different boats embodying varying keel configurations. Experiencing firsthand how each sailboat handles will give you valuable insights into their capabilities and limitations. Consider trade-offs regarding aspects like speed versus maneuverability or comfort versus stability before making your final decision.

In conclusion, selecting the correct sailboat keel type requires careful consideration and an understanding of your sailing goals. By following this step-by-step process, you’ll be equipped with the knowledge needed to choose a sailboat that perfectly aligns with your needs. Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer – it’s about finding the ideal balance between performance, stability, maneuverability, and suitability for your intended purpose.

Exploring Different Sailboat Keel Designs: A Closer Look at the Options

When it comes to sailing, the design of a sailboat’s keel plays a critical role in its performance and overall handling. A well-designed keel can greatly enhance a boat’s stability, maneuverability, and efficiency on the water. With various options available in the market, it’s important to understand the differences and benefits associated with each type of sailboat keel design.

One commonly found keel design is the full keel. As its name suggests, this type extends from the bow to the stern, providing extensive support and stability to the boat. Full keels are known for their ability to track straight in rough conditions and offer excellent resistance against sideways forces such as wind or waves. This makes them well-suited for long-distance cruising and offshore sailing adventures. Additionally, full keels often have a shallower draft which allows access to more shallow waters, making them versatile for exploring coastal areas.

On the other end of the spectrum is the fin keel design. Unlike full keels, fin keels are shorter and narrower, located primarily beneath the boat’s center of gravity. This leads to improved maneuverability and allows sailors to make tighter turns more easily. Fin keels also tend to have a deeper draft which provides better upwind performance by reducing side slippage while maintaining stability.

A variant of fin keels is bulbous or winged-keels. These designs feature weighted bulbs at their lower ends, enhancing stability while still allowing for efficient upwind sailing. The added weight at the bottom reduces heeling angles during strong winds while optimizing lift characteristics under sails.

For those seeking enhanced speed capabilities with reduced drag underwater, there are high-performance sailboats that incorporate daggerboard or centerboard designs. Daggerboards slide vertically through slots on either side of a boat’s hull when deployed during sailing operations but can be retracted when not needed. They offer tremendous flexibility due to adjustable positions based on wind conditions—providing sailors an opportunity to optimize lift and reduce drag accordingly. This keel design is often favored by competitive racers who prioritize speed and agility over stability.

Lastly, a popular modern innovation is the canting keel. This keel design consists of a fin that can swing out to either side of the boat via a mechanism controlled by hydraulics or other means. The ability to adjust the angle of the keel allows for advanced maneuvering and optimizing performance based on current conditions. Canting keels are commonly found in high-performance racing yachts where every degree counts in gaining a competitive edge.

When deciding on the most suitable sailboat keel design, it ultimately depends on your intended use, sailing goals, and personal preferences. Cruisers may lean towards full or bulbous keels for their stability and versatility, whereas racers seek the swift performance offered by fin or daggerboard designs.

Whichever sailboat keel design you choose, understanding its characteristics and how it aligns with your sailing objectives is vital. Consulting with experienced sailors or marine professionals can help you make an informed decision when selecting your dream sailboat—a vessel that will carry you gracefully through all your aquatic adventures.

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Keel Types: Get Answers Here!

Welcome to our blog where we aim to satisfy your curiosity about sailboat keel types! Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just getting started in the world of sailing, understanding the different keel designs is crucial for optimizing your boat’s performance on the water. In this article, we’ve compiled some frequently asked questions to provide you with comprehensive answers and shed light on this important aspect of sailboats. So let’s dive in!

1. What is a sailboat keel? A sailboat keel refers to the underwater structure attached at the bottom of the hull that provides stability and prevents excessive sideways drift. It essentially acts as a counterbalance against wind forces acting on the sails, allowing the boat to maintain an upright position.

2. How does a sailboat keel work? The primary function of a keel is to create lift in the water as it moves through it. This lift opposes and balances the lateral forces generated by wind pressure on sails, keeping the boat from being pushed sideways or capsizing. Additionally, by increasing drag and resistance, it also helps prevent excessive speed or slipping sideways when sailing upwind.

3. What are different types of sailboat keels? There are various sailboat keel designs tailored for specific purposes:

– Fin Keel: The fin keel is one of the most common types characterized by its long, narrow shape extending vertically downwards into the water beneath the boat. It offers excellent upwind performance while minimizing drag, making it ideal for racing or competitive sailing.

– Wing Keel: A wing keel features two smaller fins (wings) positioned near its base instead of one central fin like traditional fin keels. This design aims to improve stability while reducing draft depth, enabling boats to navigate shallower waters without sacrificing performance.

– Bulb Keel: Bulb keels have an additional weighted bulb located at their lower end designed to enhance stability and reduce drag even further. These keels are often found on performance cruisers or racing yachts, offering enhanced righting moments and improved overall sailing performance.

– Full Keel: On the other end of the spectrum, full keels extend along the entire length of the boat’s bottom. They provide excellent stability but tend to sacrifice maneuverability and speed in favor of increased seaworthiness, making them well-suited for long-range cruising or bluewater sailing.

4. Which sailboat keel type is best for me? The ideal keel type depends on your specific sailing needs and preferences. If you’re primarily focused on racing or want a higher level of maneuverability, a fin keel with a bulb might be more suitable. However, if you prioritize stability and plan to embark on extended journeys or offshore passages, a full keel could be an excellent choice.

5. Can I modify my sailboat’s keel? Modifying a sailboat’s keel is generally not recommended as it can significantly alter the vessel’s balance and stability characteristics. Unless you have extensive knowledge and expertise in naval architecture, it’s best to consult with professionals before considering any modifications.

We hope this FAQ section has answered some burning questions about sailboat keels! Choosing the right type for your vessel will greatly impact your sailing experience, so take the time to research and understand each design’s advantages and limitations. Whether you’re aiming for speed, stability, or versatility – happy sailing!

Benefits and Drawbacks of Various Sailboat Keel Types: What to Consider

When it comes to choosing the perfect sailboat for your seafaring adventures, one important factor that often gets overlooked is the type of keel. A sailboat’s keel plays a crucial role in stability and maneuverability, making it essential to carefully consider the benefits and drawbacks of various keel types before making a decision. In this blog post, we will explore these different types and help you understand what factors should be considered.

1. Fin Keel: Fin keels are among the most common types found on modern sailboats. They feature a deep, narrow profile that extends vertically from the hull’s bottom. One significant benefit of fin keels is their excellent upwind performance due to their low drag and efficient water flow around them. This allows for better pointing ability and higher speeds when sailing close to the wind. However, fin keels also have some drawbacks worth considering. Due to their depth, they may limit access to shallower waters and make grounding more hazardous. Additionally, their narrow profile can result in reduced stability compared to other keel types in rough conditions or during sudden gusts of wind.

2. Wing Keel: Wing keels are designed similarly to fin keels but have two small wings extending horizontally from either side of the main fin. These wings increase the overall surface area of the keel, providing additional lift and improved stability compared to fin keels. One significant benefit of wing keels is their ability to handle shallow waters more effectively than other types without compromising performance significantly. The extra surface area also helps minimize leeway or sideways drift when sailing downwind. Despite these advantages, wing keels may present some trade-offs. The enlarged wings can induce additional drag, slightly reducing speed potential in certain conditions such as upwind sailing or going against a strong current.

3. Centerboard or Swing Keel: Centerboards or swing keels offer versatility by providing both draft adjustability and easy access to shallow waters. These keels are retractable, allowing them to be raised when navigating in shallow areas and lowered for enhanced stability in deeper waters. The main benefit of a centerboard keel is the ability to explore more secluded areas that may be inaccessible with fixed keels. They also offer better windward performance than wing or fin keels when fully deployed. However, the design limitations of centerboards can result in reduced overall lateral stability compared to fixed keels. Additionally, the mechanism used for raising and lowering the centerboard can be prone to maintenance issues or potential failure if not properly maintained.

4. Full Keel: Full keels, also known as long keels, are characterized by their extended length from bow to stern. This type provides optimal directional stability and contributes greatly to reducing leeway and weather helm even in challenging conditions. One of the primary benefits of full keels is their seaworthiness and ability to maintain course easily while cruising offshore. They tend to track well and inspire confidence in rough seas. Nevertheless, full keels have some drawbacks that should be considered. Due to their larger surface area, they generate more drag than other types of keels. This additional resistance can slightly reduce speed potential, especially in light winds or when sailing against strong currents.

In conclusion, choosing the right sailboat keel type is a critical decision that requires careful consideration based on your desired sailing conditions and preferences. Each type comes with its own set of benefits and drawbacks that need evaluation depending on factors such as intended use, cruising grounds, draft requirements, and personal skill level. By understanding these nuances and making an informed choice, you can ensure an enjoyable and safe sailing experience on whichever sailboat you ultimately decide upon.

Beginners’ Guide to Sailboat Keel Types: Everything You Need to Know

Welcome aboard to our Beginners’ Guide to Sailboat Keel Types: Everything You Need to Know! Whether you’re a novice sailor or an experienced mariner looking to brush up on your knowledge, understanding sailboat keel types is essential for enjoying a smooth sailing experience. So hoist the sails and let’s dive in!

Keels play a crucial role in stabilizing sailboats by counteracting the force of wind pushing against the sails. The right keel type ensures optimal stability, maneuverability, and overall performance under various conditions. Let’s explore some of the most common sailboat keel types you’ll encounter on your seafaring adventures:

1. Full Keel: Picture yourself cruising on a classic yacht from a bygone era – chances are it has a full keel. This traditional design encompasses a long, deep fin that extends from bow to stern, providing excellent directional stability. Full keels are ideal for longer voyages as their heavy displacement reduces rolling motion, making them resilient in rough seas.

2. Fin Keel: On the flip side of the spectrum lies the fin keel – sleek, modern, and agile. Fin keels feature a shorter but more slender profile compared to full keels, extending from just below the hull near the bow and terminating towards the stern. Their reduced surface area allows for increased speed through water while facilitating easy maneuvering and quick responsiveness.

3. Wing Keel: Imagine having wings underwater – that’s precisely what you’ll find with wing keels! These innovative designs incorporate additional extensions (wings) on either side of the main fin, increasing lateral resistance as well as stability. Wing keels offer superb shallow-water cruising capabilities, allowing sailors to explore coastal areas with ease.

4. Bulb Keel: Don’t be fooled by their name; bulb keels are anything but dull! Often seen on high-performance racing yachts or larger cruisers aiming for speed, this keel type features a lead bulb at the tip of a narrow fin. The added weight significantly lowers the boat’s center of gravity, enhancing stability and reducing heeling (sideways tilting) when harnessing strong winds.

5. Bilge Keel: If you’re looking for versatility, bilge keels are your go-to option! As the name suggests, these twin keels are positioned symmetrically on each side of the sailboat’s hull. Bilge keels provide great stability both underway and at rest while also enabling easy beaching or grounding in tidal areas. Their unique design allows for exploring shallow waters without compromising maneuverability.

As with any sailing endeavor, it’s important to remember that each sailboat keel type comes with its own set of trade-offs. Factors such as sailing conditions, intended use (racing vs. cruising), and personal preference will ultimately guide your choice.

So there you have it – a comprehensive overview of sailboat keel types to set your seafaring journey on the right course! Whether you opt for the classic elegance of a full keel or the nimble agility of a fin keel, understanding these different types empowers you to choose wisely based on your specific needs and aspirations as a sailor.

Now, all that’s left is to chart your course and let the wind fill your sails as you embark on countless exciting adventures across vast oceans or tranquil lakes. Happy sailing!

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Sailboat Keel Types: Pros And Cons 2024

Sailboats are highly versatile vessels that offer a unique form of entertainment and leisure, yet before you can truly unlock their potential, it is important to gain an understanding of all the different keel types available—each providing its own advantages.

Whether you’re new to sailing or an experienced sailor looking to ride a different wave, this post will provide you with insight into all the various sailboat keel types and highlight the advantages they present.

In this blog post, we’ll explore the advantages of different keels, as well as discuss the best route for outfitters trying to decide which is right for them.

From fin stabilizers to centerboards, let’s dive right in and explore which one best suits your boating needs!

Table of Contents

Centerboard keel, what is a sailboat keel, what is the purpose of a keel on a boat, sailboat keel materials, can you sail without a keel, how to look after your keel, what to do if your keel breaks at sea, sailboat keel types and their advantages.

From improving maneuverability in tight spaces to increasing stability when combating choppy seas, understanding how each type works can give you the edge you need to brave any challenging conditions that come your way.

Here are the most common types of sailboat keels and their advantages and disadvantages.

A full keel is one that runs pretty much the whole length of the sailboat.

This is one of the most stable types of keel, and is popular with offshore cruisers looking for a solid, rugged sailboat.

A full keeled sailboat will usually fare better in heavy weather. They tend to track better in big waves and there is less risk of you losing the keel compared to other keel types.

Another advantage of full keeled sailboats is that they are safer to run aground (if you find yourself in that unfortunate situation), and the rudder is pretty well protected.

The disadvantages of full keels are that they don’t maneuver well in reverse. This can be a big problem when coming into moorings astern, especially in the Med where stern to mooring is popular. They also tend to need more power to tack effectively.

Full keels are usually also deep keels (though you can get full keeled sailboats with shallow keels too). It’s really important to consider the draft of a boat before buying, because you’ll want to be sure you can cruise it in your desired waterways.

How to tie a sailboat to a mooring ball

Fin keels are probably the most popular type of keel on modern boats, and you’ll see many of them around a boat yard.

Fin keels look how they sound, like a fin underneath the boat. They tend to hang quite low to make up for a smaller amount of ballast, so boats with a fin keel usually have a deeper draft.

There are many advantages to fin keels, explaining why they are so popular today. They tend to outperform full keeled points on most points of sail, especially close to the wind where they can point closer and sail faster.

They handle more easily under power and can go astern, making mooring easier. They are also more agile when tacking.

The main disadvantages to a fin keel are that they tend to be less stable. They will power up quickly and heel quickly, so reefing at the right time is paramount.

Another concern from many sailors is the fact that fin keeled boats are bolted on. If those bolts aren’t regularly inspected and maintained then they can fail, resulting in your sailboat losing its keel with catastrophic results.

Because they tend to have a deeper draft there is more possibility of them grounding, and more possibility of a grounding having serious consequences.

Although these safety concerns are sometimes overdramatised by the sailing community (plenty of people cross serious oceans in fin keeled boats every year), they are something to bear in mind.

A bulb keel is very similar to a fin keel, only it has additional ballast at the end, usually in the shape of a bulb or teardrop which is where it gets its name.

The ballast improves stability, using the distance between force and counterforce as a lever.

The benefits of a bulb keel are very similar to that of a fin keel, but you’re likely to find increased comfort and stability and better performace.

The cons are also very similar to fin keels, and you’ll want to check the keel bolts carefully before you purchase a boat with a bulb keel, and make sure you’re on top of regular maintenance too.

A wing keel is again very similar to a fin keel, but with a horizontal fin at the tip of the keel that looks a little like wings.

The design of this keel gives most of the same advantages of a fin keel, but the edge it has over it is the fact it can have a shallower draft, meaning you can sail in shallower waters. These boats tend to be popular for river or lake sailing for this reason.

The cons of this design are that you will lose some windward performance compared to the fin keeled sailboats, and you might find the wing creates drag and therefore a slower performance overall.

A bilge keel boat has two keels, or twin keels placed off centre. They are a popular type of keel although less common than fin and full keels.

One of the big advantages of these types of sailboat keel is that they allow the boat to be beached and rest on the keels. This also makes running aground safer, especially compared to fin keeled boats.

Bilge keels have double the wetted surface area, increasing the overall comfort of the boat and its directional stability. They also sail pretty well to windward.

Compared to the fin keel, bilge keeled sailboats tend to be slower, especially the older models. What you lose slightly in speed you tend to make up for in comfort.

Sailboats with a centreboard keel can give you the best of both worlds. With a keel that retracts, usually resting on a hinge that can be raised or lowered through a slot in the hull, it can increase or reduce the draft of a sailboat.

You will find sailboats that have ballasted lifting keels, and ones where the centreboard isn’t essential to the stability of the boat and carry hardly any weight.

With the centreboard down, the idea is that the sailboat will track better to wind and give you more maneuverability. It should make your boat behave similarly to a full keeled sailboat.

With the board up, you will be able to reach much shallower waters. It also means the boat is faster under motor alone with less drag through the water, and often a more effective downwind sailor too. Some of the best shallow draft liveaboard sailboats have lifting keels.

The disadvantages of a lifting keel are that you will lose some performance, especially when sailing upwind.

There is also the safety aspect of more working parts that need to be maintained, and with boats that have a ballasted lifting keel the danger of losing the keel is even more prevalent.

A sailboat keel is the fin that hangs underneath a sailboat like a dagger, providing stability against strong sideways forces of wind.

The design is crucial to hold the boat upright and make sailing tack easier, with its depth and shape involving meticulous calculations of size, weight, center of gravity, providing buoyancy, and other features.

On modern sailboats, the keel may be made out of cast iron or steel for extra strength, while traditional boats would opt for a design comprised of lead or copper.

Regardless of its form though, it proves to be an absolute must-have device on any ship meant to travel on wind power alone.

Sailboats are designed to take advantage of the wind, allowing you to traverse the seas with relative ease. But what makes a sailboat so efficient? Well, it all comes down to its keel: the long, usually slightly curved structure that extends below your boat’s hull and helps keep it stable.

The keel on a boat is an integral part of its design and provides many essential functions.

Acting as an anchor, the keel helps to keep the vessel in place regardless of wind and current conditions.

It also helps to increase the stability of the boat by lowering its center of gravity and distributing weight more evenly across it. This improves the handling of the boat, which can be especially important in rough waters.

The keel holds the ballast for the sailboat, keeping it from tipping over and meaning it can right itself if it does capsize.

All told, a boat’s keel plays a very important role in making sure that its passengers have a safe, stable ride out on open water.

Most keels are made from the same material as the boat itself – usually fibreglass, wood or steel.

They will then also contain a ballast. A heavier material that gives the boat its righting ability, and prevents it from capsizing easily in heavy seas.

The ballast in sailboat keels are traditionally created from iron or lead to give the boat stability and balance in the water.

The answer to this question is, it depends. There are sailboats that have been designed without keels, such as sailing dinghies that rely on daggerboards, and catamarans.

If your sailboat has been designed to have a keel, though, then it would be very dangerous to head out sailing without one.

Keels are designed to counteract the forces that the sails, wind, and waves put on a boat and make sure it stays upright. Or if it is knocked over it will right itself again. Without a keel there is a high likelihood that your sailboat will capsize and remain inverted.

As the keel is one of the most important parts of your sailboat you’re going to want to really take care of it.

One of the main things you’ll need to do on a regular basis is keep your keel clean. This will help immensely when it comes to performance, as even a little growth on the keel can slow you down a lot.

Another benefit to keeping your keel clean is that it’s easier to do a basic sight inspection. You can check for any cracks or possible damage that might have occurred if you hit something or run aground.

The best way to keep your keel clean is to have it jetwashed when you come out of the water to antifoul your boat. Without taking your boat out of the water the only way to clean it is to dive down and do it yourself, which many sailors will do at least once a season.

Another very important check to carry out yearly is a keel bolt inspection if your boat has a keel that is bolted on.

Outside check

• Check for rust along the hull to keel joint.
• Check for signs of movement along the hull to keel joint (any cracks or splits in the joint area)

Inside check

• Is the bilge dry? Bilges should be clean and dry to help prevent corrosion.
• Do a visual check of the fastenings in the bilges.
• Check for rust or staining around the fastenings.
• Check for signs of movement. This will probably appear as stress cracks around the keel bolts.

If you notice any of these signs then get your keel checked by a professional surveyor who will be able to tell you what’s going on, why, and what your next steps should be.

It is extremely unlikely that your keel will break at sea, especially if you follow the correct maintenance and make sure that if you run aground you haul the boat immediately for an inspection.

There have been a few cases of keel bolts failing at sea, and these cases obviously hit the headlines as they cause total disaster, and lives are often tragically lost.

If you hear the sound of your keel falling off at sea then you need to act extremely quickly. You have hardly any time at all until the boat is likely to capsize. Make sure you have a command for anyone down below so that they have time to get up on deck immediately.

One of the only things you can do is launch and get into your liferaft before you capsize. This is why it is so important to have a liferaft that is easy to launch and a grab bag with essentials like an Epirb that is easily accessible.

Conclusion: Sailboat Keels And Their Advantages

After exploring the various types of sailboat keels, it’s clear that each offers its own advantages and disadvantages.

While a full-keel boat offers exceptional stability against strong winds or currents, it lacks speed and maneuverability due to its heavier weight.

Conversely, a centerboard or winged keel has far superior speed and agility but lacks the same level of lateral stability as a full-keel boat.

No matter what type of sailing you enjoy, analyzing sailboat keel types can make all the difference in finding the right boat for your needs.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Keel types and how they affect performance

• Peter Poland
• June 19, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of keel design and how the different types affect performance

The Twister is a well-proven example of a generation of production yachts with ‘cutaway’ full keels and keel-hung rudders. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Having been a boatbuilder for around 30 years until the very early ‘noughties’, I’ve already witnessed – and even taken part in – a lot of changes in the world of yacht design and building.

Yacht design originally evolved as traditional workboats developed into leisure craft.

In his History of Yachting , Douglas Phillips-Birt writes that the Dutch, who gave the name ‘yacht’ to the world, were probably the first to use commercial craft for pleasure in the 16th century.

They created the first yacht harbour in Amsterdam in the 17th century.

When the schooner America visited the UK in 1851 and raced around the Isle of Wight, this led to the America’s Cup and the resulting merry-go-round of race-yacht design that continues to this day.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 35 offers three different fin keel configurations with different draughts plus a lifting keel version with a centreplate housed in a shallow winged keel stub. Credit: David Harding

The creation of what is now the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA ) in 1875 led to the introduction of handicap rules, establishing the sport in Britain.

These rating rules – and their numerous successors down the ages – have helped determine the evolution of yacht design and keel shapes.

Many early yachts were closely based on workboats, commercial cargo carriers or even privateers and naval vessels.

Initially, the ballast was carried in a long keel and the bilges .

New racing rules of the day taught designers to seek and tweak performance-enhancing features.

Maybe racing did not always improve the breed, but it certainly kept it moving ahead.

Artwork inspired by Ted Brewer’s illustration of keel types (excluding centreplate or lifting keels)

The late, great designer David Thomas believed that fishing boats, pilot cutters and oyster smacks had a large influence on the sport of sailing.

Each type of workboat was built to fulfil a specific purpose. And many had to be sailed short-handed while carrying heavy cargoes.

So they needed to combine form and function, sail well and be able to cope with heavy weather.

Proof of the versatility of working boat designs was provided by Peter Pye and his wife, Anne.

They bought a 30ft Polperro gaff-rigged fishing boat (built by Ferris of Looe in 1896) for £25 in the 1930s.

Having converted her to a sea-going cutter, and renamed her Moonraker of Fowey , they sailed the world for 20 years.

It proves how the simplest working boat design can cross oceans and fulfil dreams.

Racing influence on keel types and design

Most early yacht designs were schooners, but during the latter half of the 19th century the gaff cutter rig started to dominate the scene.

Many notable yachts were built at that time and the most important racing design was probably the yawl Jullanar (1875).

Designed and built by the agricultural engineer EH Bentall, she had, in his own words, “the longest waterline, the smallest frictional surface, and the shortest keel”.

She proved to be extremely fast and in her first season won every race she entered. Jullanar became the forerunner of such famous designs as GL Watson’s Thistle (1887), Britannia (1893), and Valkyrie II and Valkyrie III , both of which challenged for the America’s Cup during the 1890s.

Compare the She 36’s graceful overhangs with the vertical stems and sterns of most modern cruiser/racers

In the USA, Nat Herreshoff experimented with hull forms for racing yachts and produced the ground-breaking Gloriana in 1890.

She was a small boat for the times, with a waterline length of 46ft. Her hull form was very different to anything yet seen in the USA.

With long overhangs at bow and stern, her forefoot was so cut away that the entry at the bow produced a near-straight line from the stem to the keel.

It was a revolutionary design, and nothing at the time could touch her on the racecourse.

Many French models, such as this Beneteau, have opted for substantial pivoting keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Herreshoff wrote: “Above the waterline everything on Gloriana was pared down in size and weight… and every ounce of this saving in weight was put into the outside lead.”

Early English rating rules produced the ‘plank-on-edge’ yacht, where the beam became narrower and the draught got deeper.

New rating rules were then adopted to discourage this extreme type and eventually the Universal Rule was introduced in the USA and the International Rule – which produced the International Metre Classes – took over in Europe.

Yet again, racing rules proved to be a major influence on design development.

By the start of the 20th century the big, long-keeled racing yachts like the J Class attracted a lot of public attention, but after World War II everything changed. Yachts built to the Universal Rule fell from favour.

The age of the racing dinghy arrived and the ocean racer became the performance yacht of the future.

To new extremes

A 300-mile race from New York to Marblehead saw the start of offshore racing and the first Bermuda race was run in 1906.

The British were slower to compete offshore, but in 1925 seven yachts took up the challenge to race round the Fastnet Rock, starting from the Isle of Wight and finishing at Plymouth.

EG Martin’s French gaff-rigged pilot cutter Jolie Brise won the race and the Ocean Racing Club was formed.

In 1931 this became the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC), which remains the governing body of offshore racing in Britain.

The ‘cutaway’ modified full keel was famously used by Olin Stevens on his mighty Dorade. Credit: Christopher Ison/Alamy

The early competitors in RORC races were long-keeled cruising boats, many of them gaff rigged and designed for comfort and speed.

But everything changed in 1931 when the young American Olin Stephens designed and then sailed his family’s 52ft yawl Dorade across the Atlantic to compete in that year’s Fastnet race.

She won with ease. Then she did it again in 1933, having first won the Transatlantic ‘feeder’ race.

At 52ft LOA, with sharp ends and 10ft 3in beam, some said Dorade looked like an overgrown yawl rigged 6-metre. But her triple-spreader main mast was revolutionary. As were her cutaway forefoot, lightweight construction, deep ballast and 7ft 7in draught.

Dorade took the long keel format to new extremes.

In the USA, the Cruising Club of America (CCA), founded in 1922, played much the same role as the RORC did in Britain.

It introduced its own rating rule which influenced the evolution of yacht design in the USA.

The Elan 333. Both the deep (1.9m) and shallow (1.5m) draught models feature an elegantly faired bulb keel and spade rudder. Credit: Peter Poland

Beam was treated more leniently under the CCA rule, so wider American designs later offered more space for accommodation and a bit more inherent form stability than RORC-rule inspired yachts.

Many famous designers of long-keel racing yachts at this time developed their skills at the yachtbuilding firms they ran, such as William Fife II (1821–1902), his son William III (1857–1944), Charles E Nicholson (1868–1954) of Camper & Nicholsons and Nat Herreshoff of Bristol, Rhode Island.

Around the same time several British yacht designers made their names, including George L Watson (1851–1904) who set up one of the earliest Design Offices and Alfred Mylne (1872–1951), who designed several successful International Metre Class yachts.

Norwegian designers Colin Archer (1832–1921) and Johan Anker (1871–1940) also joined the party.

Continues below…

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In 1873 Archer designed the first long keel Norwegian yacht, but his real interest was work boats – pilot boats, fishing craft, and sailing lifeboats – some of which were later converted into cruising yachts.

Erling Tambs’s Teddy was a classic Colin Archer long keel canoe-stern design in which he wandered the globe with his young wife and family.

He proved the seaworthiness of Archer’s yachts, as well as their speed, by winning the 1932 Trans-Tasman yacht race.

Fellow Norwegian Johan Anker – a one-time pupil of Nat Herreshoff – became equally famous, thanks to his Dragon-class design that still races today.

As a new generation of designers arrived on the scene in the 1930s, hull tank testing became more sophisticated.

Long keel designs became as much a science as an art.

The leader of this new wave of designers, Olin J Stephens, had been a junior assistant to Starling Burgess who designed race-winning J Class yachts, including the iconic Ranger .

Tank testing was then in its infancy but the USA was ahead of the game and Stephens stored away everything that he learned. He enjoyed a head start over his contemporaries.

Keel types: Fin keels

Between the 1930s and the 1980s more fin keel designs began to arrive on the scene and his firm Sparkman & Stephens produced many of the world’s top ocean racers.

He also designed America’s Cup 12-Metres that defended the cup up to 1983 until Ben Lexcen’s winged keel shook the sailing world.

Many S&S fin keel and skeg production boats – such as the Swan 36 (1967), 37, 40, 43, 48, 53 and 65, She 31 (1969) and 36 and S&S 34 (1968) – still win yacht races and are much sought after as classics.

The S&S 34 has several circumnavigations to its name. Stephens, of course, had his rivals.

Among these was the Englishman Jack Laurent Giles, whose light displacement race-winner Myth of Malham had one of the shortest ‘long keels’ of all time.

(L-R) A Sigma 38 designed by David Thomas and Gulvain (1949) by Jack Giles as a development of his Fastnet-winning Myth of Malham have very different keel types. Credit: Peter Poland

The Dutchman EG Van de Stadt designed the Pioneer 9 (1959) which was one of the first GRP fin keel and spade rudder racers.

Towards the end of his career, Olin Stephens also came up against Dick Carter, Doug Peterson, German Frers and the Kiwis Ron Holland and Bruce Farr.

The development of new shaped keels went hand in hand with this rapid evolution in yacht design.

The full keel, as still found on motor-sailers such as the Fisher range, gave way to the ‘cutaway’ modified full keel as famously used by Olin Stephens on his mighty Dorade , designed back in the late 1920s.

She still wins ‘classic’ yacht races in the USA. American designer Ted Brewer wrote in ‘ GoodOldBoat ’ that Dorade’s offshore racing successes proved that the full keel is not essential for seaworthiness.

The Nicholson 32’s modified ‘cutaway’ long keel results in excellent performance and handling. Credit: Genevieve Leaper

As a result of its improved performance and handling, the modified ‘cutaway’ long keel caught on quickly and became the standard for around 35 years.

This keel type is found on numerous popular designs such as the Nicholson 32 , 26 and 36, Twister 28 and many Nordic Folkboat derivations.

The modified full keel format had a cutaway profile, giving good handling and directional stability while having less wetted surface than the full keel designs.

These yachts can perform well in all conditions and have a comfortable motion.

Even though they are generally of heavier displacement than fin keelers, they are not much slower in light airs , despite their added wetted surface area.

Their main drawback is a wide turning circle ahead and reluctance to steer astern when under motor.

Keel types: Increased stability

The modified full keel was subsequently cut away more and more for bluewater and inshore racers in an attempt to reduce wetted area until, finally, some designers took it to extremes.

As a result, much-reduced directional stability produced craft that were difficult to steer in breezy conditions, broaching regularly.

Whereupon the fin keel and skeg-hung rudder took over, reinstating increased directional stability, improving windward ability, reducing drag and restoring – when under power – control astern and on slow turns.

This fin and skeg format was later followed by the NACA sectioned fin keel with a separate spade rudder .

Soon, many performance cruisers followed this race-boat trend.

The Hanse 430 has a spade rudder and bulbed keel (draught 2.16m or 1.79m shoal draught. Credit: Peter Poland

Many builders now also offer shoal draught fin keel options and shallower twin rudders.

Some, such as Hanse, incorporate L- or even T-shaped bulbs on some Hanses and Dehlers at the base of finely shaped cast iron fins.

A new international competition had encouraged the initial development of modern fin keel yacht designs.

The revamped One Ton Cup was launched in 1965 for yachts on fixed handicap ratings (typically around 37ft long).

This spawned later fixed-rating championships for Quarter Tonners (around 24ft), Half Tonners (around 30 ft), Three-Quarter Tonners (around 33ft), and finally Mini-Tonners (around 21ft).

All these yachts were eventually handicapped under the International Offshore Rule (IOR) that replaced the old RORC and CCA rules.

The revamped One Ton Cup helped encourage the developed of modern fin keel designs. Credit: Getty

Countless production fin keel cruisers designed and built in the 1970’s to 1990’s boom years were loosely based on successful IOR racers that shone in the ‘Ton Cup’ classes.

The IOR handicap system’s major drawback was its Centre of Gravity Factor (CGF) that discouraged stiff yachts.

Once the international IRC rule replaced the IOR, more thought was given to increasing stability by putting extra weight in a bulb at the base of the keel.

GRP production boats followed suit. The keel foil’s chord needed to be wide enough to give good lateral resistance (to stop leeway), yet not be so wide as to add unnecessary drag.

Exaggeratedly thin foils are not suited to cruising yachts because they can be tricky upwind.

Tracking is not their forte and they can stall out. A bonus was an easier ride downwind thanks to wider sterns.

Keel Types: Lead or iron?

And then there is lead. Almost every production cruiser has a cast iron keel for one simple reason; it is much cheaper than lead. But it’s not as good.

Not only does it rust; it is ‘bigger’ for the same given weight. A cubic metre of iron weighs around 7,000kg, while the same cubic metre of lead weighs around 11,300kg.

An iron keel displaces far more water (so has more drag) than the same lead weight. We had always put iron keels under our Hunters – as did our competitors.

But when we came to build the Van de Stadt HB31 cruiser-racer, designer Cees van Tongeren said “No. We use lead.” “Why?” I asked. Cees replied: “If we use iron, the keel displaces more, so the boat sails worse.”

Rustler 36 long keel’s cutaway forefoot delivers responsiveness and manoeuvrability – a reason the design is so popular in the Golden Globe Race. Credit: Beniot Stichelbaut/GGR/PPL

Which explains why top-flight race boats have lead keels – or at the very least composite keels with a lead bulb or base bolted to an iron upper foil, thus lowering the centre of gravity (CG).

Some modern production cruiser-racers offer high-performance lead or lead/iron composite keels – but at a price.

Many Danish X-Yacht and Elan race-boat models, for example, have a lead bulb on the base of an iron NACA section fin.

Rob Humphreys, current designer of the popular Elan and Oyster ranges, said: “The T-keel is good if you have sufficient draught available. If not, the fin element has too short a span to do its job. This is because the T-bulb doesn’t contribute as usefully to side force as a ‘filleted L-bulb.’

“I developed and tested this shape (a blended-in projection off the back of the main fin) for the maxi race boat Rothmans in 1988/9, and have since used it on the Oysters and Elan Impressions. The ‘filleted’ keel we tested for Rothmans had slightly more drag dead downwind (more wetted area) but was significantly better when any side-force occurred; and side-force goes hand-in-hand with heel angle – which is most of the time! When the model spec allows for reasonable draught, the keel option with the lowest centre of gravity will invariably be a T-keel, with a longer bulb giving the greatest scope for a slender ballast package. An L-keel is a compromise and doesn’t suffer from the risk of snagging lines, mooring warps, and nets. [many modern production cruisers have 100% cast iron L- or T-shaped keels]. A lead bulb is preferable to a cast iron keel in terms of volume and density, but it costs more. However, a lead T-keel in a production environment will almost certainly use a cast iron or SG Iron fin, which may rust.”

The Mystery 35, designed by Stephen Jones and built by Cornish Crabbers, has a lead fin keel. Photo: Michael Austen/Alamy

Rustler Yachts also uses lead instead of iron for their keels.

The Rustler 36 long keel (designed by Holman and Pye and winner of the 2018 Golden Globe Race) has a cutaway forefoot to improve responsiveness and manoeuvrability.

The long keel creates more drag but, as with the Rustler 24, the cutaway forefoot makes the 36 more nimble than a full long keel boat, which are more difficult to manoeuvre in reverse under power.

The rest of Rustler’s offshore range – the Rustler 37, 42, 44 and 57 – designed by Stephen Jones – have lead fin keels.

As does his Mystery 35 built by Cornish Crabbers.

These offer an excellent combination of directional stability, performance and lateral stability. The yachts track well, are comfortable in choppy seas, and have good manoeuvrability, all without the flightiness of shorter chord fin keels found on many production family cruisers.

A digital future

Influential designer David Thomas said: “When I started designing, I integrated sharp leading edges to the keel; until someone told me a radius was better. Then we were all taught that an elliptical shape was better still. With the advent of computers, designers could better visualise the end-product; and clever ‘faring programs’ speeded this up.”

So where next? A combination of lighter and stronger materials, rapidly developing computer programs, a desire for maximum interior volume and low costs has led us to today’s production yacht.

Twin rudders improve the handling of broad-sterned yachts when heeled.

The IRC rating rule permits low CG keels, wider beam and near-vertical bows and sterns.

And designers now have an array of new computer tools at their disposal. But maybe there’s still that element of black magic?

As David Thomas so succinctly said: “You can design a yacht 95% right, but the last 5% can be down to luck.”

Keel types : the pros and cons

Full length keel

The Fisher 31 and many motor-sailers have long keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Pros: Directional stability. Heavy displacement leading to comfort at sea.

Cons: Poor windward performance. Large wetted surface leads to drag. When under power at low speeds, the turning circle is wide unless fitted with thrusters. The same applies to manoeuvring astern.

Cutaway modified long keel form with keel-hung rudder

Pros: Reduced wetted surface area leading to increased boat speed. Better windward performance and handling than full length keel. Rudder on the aft end of the keel improves self-steering ability on some designs.

Cons: Under engine, this keel form has a large turning circle ahead and poor control astern. Since the rudder is not ‘balanced’, the helm on some designs can feel quite heavy.

Fin keel with skeg-hung rudder

The skeg gives protection to the rudder. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The further reduction in wetted surface area leads to more boat speed. Directional stability and close-windedness are also improved. If full depth, the skeg can protect the rudder against collision damage.

Cons: When combined with a narrow stern, this keel format can induce rolling when sailing dead downwind in heavy winds.

Fin keel with separate spade rudder

Fin keel with spade: Low wetted surface and aerofoil shapes enhance performance. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The fin and spade rudder mix reduces wetted surface and gives a more sensitive helm – especially if the blade has ‘balance’ incorporated in its leading edge. Handling under power in astern is precise and the turning circle is small.

Cons: The rudder is fully exposed to collisions. There are no fittings connecting the rudder to a keel or skeg, so the rudder stock and bearings need to be very robust.

Shallow stub keel with internal centreplate.

Pros: When lowered, the plate gives good windward performance. The plate can act as an echo sounder in protected shallow water. There is normally no internal centreplate box to disrupt accommodation. With the plate raised, off-wind performance is good.

Cons: The plate lifting wire needs regular inspection and occasional replacement. Windward performance with the plate raised is poor.

Lifting or swing keel

Boats with lifting keels tend to surf earlier downwind. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Shallowest draught so more cruising options; can also be moored on cheaper moorings. Surfs early downwind. Small wetted surface so can be fast.

Cons: Reduced living space due to internal keel box. With a raised keel, poor directional control. Susceptible to hull damage if grounding on hard material.

Twin or bilge keel

Bilge- or twin-keelers can take the ground on the level. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Can take the ground in a level position. Modern twin-keel designs with around 15º splay, around 2º toe-in and bulbed bases perform well upwind. Good directional stability due to the fins. Modern twin keels with bulbed bases lower the centre of gravity.

Cons: Older designs do not point upwind well. Slapping sound under windward keel when at a steep angle of heel on older designs. Antifouling between the keels can be tricky. Can be more expensive than fin keels.

Wing keel: A low centre of gravity gives a good righting moment. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Low centre of gravity means good righting moment. Shallow draught. Sharper windward performance.

Cons: Larger surface area means it is more likely to pick up fishing gear, like lobster pots. Difficult to move once it is grounded. And difficult to scrub keel base when dried out alongside a wall.

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Better Sailing

Bilge Keel Vs Fin Keel: Which is Better?

Keel design is constantly changing, and nowhere is this more evident than in current racing yachts. To stay upright when sailing upwind, these speedy offshore monohulls feature very sophisticated canting keels. The boats are made to be as light as possible while remaining strong enough to compete in ocean races. While cruising yachts aren’t built to compete in ocean races, there are a variety of keel designs to choose from. Traditional boats have long, deep keels that are an inherent component of the hull, making them heavier than modern designs but also more stable and seaworthy. Fin-shaped keels, which are bolted beneath the hull, are found on many modern boats. This results in yachts that are lighter, faster, and more maneuverable than deep keel designs. In this article, I will compare the bilge keel vs the fin keel types. So, if you’re interested to learn more, then keep reading!

So, what do we mean by fin keel? This is the boat’s major structural component. It is also known as the vessel’s backbone, as it runs longitudinally across the hull from bottom to top. The keel is built of robust material and runs from the stem to the stern to ensure the boat’s stability. It is usually made of metal or wood. A fin keel is a long, weighted blade that is affixed to the hull’s bottom. It is more agile, lighter, and faster than a full keel, but it is also more vulnerable. A lever is created by the increased distance between ballast and sails, which eliminates the need for a big wetted surface or additional ballast. Popular sailboats with a fin keel include the Hunter 34, the Bavaria 40, and the Catalina 30.

Fin keels are bolted to the hull and are deeper and thinner than full keels. They’re also less heavy. This significantly improves performance, making fin keels much faster in all scenarios. Fin keels, on the other hand, have a number of significant drawbacks. Fin keels are less comfortable than full keels because they allow for more heel and a less stable track. Thus, this results in less directional stability. Fin keels are also much more vulnerable than full keels, which means that when they run aground, they can break off or be damaged. Keep in mind that fin keels are greatly used by racers because they maneuver better in tight spots.

There’s another distinction on fin keels; fin keels with skeg rudder and fin keels with spade rudder. A small structural element in front of the skeg rudder protects fin keels with skeg rudders. This design is largely integrated into the hull, making it less vulnerable and providing a wonderful balance of speed and safety. The rudder on fin keels with a spade rudder is entirely exposed, and the fin is normally bolted on. Because the keel isn’t integrated into the hull, it’s more susceptible to damage and uncomfortable.

Pros and Cons of Fin Keels

A fin keel with a spade rudder is a common option nowadays. It is usually combined with light but beamy hulls with a high freeboard. Excellent speed, high pointing, and quick tacking are all benefits of a low wetted surface and a good aerofoil design. Steering is also lighter. Also, the best designs of a fin keel with a spade rudder are capable of cutting through strong seas with moderate comfort. Note that when sailing downwind, a fin keel with a spade rudder is fast, quick to surf, and might even be able to plane.

The disadvantages of a fin keel with a spade rudder are that it requires earlier reefing and it is less steady on the helm. Another disadvantage that applies when sailing downwind is that it can broach suddenly and easily and hard to control in rough conditions. Also, slamming can be caused by flat sections and in rough weather lightweight designs can be uncomfortable. They also have a strong tendency to round up when hard pressed. Moreover, when sailing downwind, this type of keel can be unstable and hard to control in rough weather conditions.

A fin keel with a skeg rudder has some minor differences to the latter type. Note that the skeg running aft protects the rudder and facilitates tracking both under sail and power. Generally, a fin keel with a skeg rudder offers better support for the rudder. There’s also less chance of damage than with a fin keel with a spade rudder. On the contrary, there’s a more wetted surface thus it makes it slower. Also, as a result of limited balancing, this can make the helm heavier.

But, what are the benefits of a well-designed single keelboat over a double keel model, then? Because it is difficult to create a twin keelboat with a truly deep draught, a moderate draught twin keel vessel may outperform a sister boat with a single keel of the same draught, the deep keel variant will always be faster. Furthermore, compared to a twin keel model, a boat with a deep single keel will have less wetted surface area and hence less drag. This is especially important in light weather when the twin keel is at a disadvantage.

Fin Keels Properties

The keel was once employed to keep the ribs together as well as to keep the stem and sternpost in place. As you may know, there are several types of keel.  The most common ones include the full keel or ballast keel which is used for stability and lateral resistance. Also, the drop of sliding keel is used to prevent the boat from side slipping. In addition, the bilge keel is a common shoal-draught option and the fin keel is generally faster and lighter.

So, the fin keel is a narrow plate in the middle of the ship, situated to the keel of a boat. It is made of wood or metal and extends downwards. A fin keel’s main purpose is to produce lateral resistance and make the boat more stable. Moreover, when a boat has a fin keel, it is easier to steer. This keel is usually nearly half the length of the boat’s bottom, and it aids in reducing drag and creating less leeway. As a result, the boat may travel quicker while remaining more stable in relation to its weight.

Note that fin keels are even more efficient when paired with current sail design and materials. The fin keel is now a separate rudder, such as a skeg hung or spade, and it is the most prevalent type of keel. As aforementioned, fin keels have various drawbacks, such as poorer directional stability, for some. They’re also more difficult to design and support when it comes to hard grounding. An excellent component to compare boats on is the fin keel. When looking at boats and their characteristics on boat comparison databases you can find more information about a specific type. For instance, details about the size, material, and stability of the fin keel used on various boat models.

>>Also Read: Sailboat Keel Types

Bilge keels are planes or fins that fit externally at the bilge’s turn. Their length is normally around a third of the ship’s length. Sometimes they might be larger, but seldom surpass half of the ship’s length. Depending on the size and fullness, their depth ranges from 1 to 2 feet. If they are too shallow, their performance will be limited. Yet, if they are too deep, damage may occur while berthing alongside, drydocking, or running aground.

A bilge keel is basically a double keel with double fins that allow the boat to be beached and stand upright on its keel. Bilge keels provide twice the wetted surface, increasing comfort, and directional stability while lowering heel height. Due to improved design, modern bilge keels frequently give an adequate windward performance. When contrasted to the fin keel, the bilge keel sacrifices speed but does not necessarily give a lower overall performance. Examples of common sailboats with a bilge keel include Dufour Dynamique 62, Patagonia Patago 39, and Hunter Duette.

Bilge keels are the most common passive system, and they are installed on the vast majority of boats. They are basically plates that protrude from the bilge turn and span the middle half to two-thirds of the boat’s length. In general, they do not protrude beyond the boat’s side or keel lines so as to minimize damage. But, they must reach the boundary layer around the hull to be functional. In addition, they induce turbulence by producing a body of water to flow with the boat, dampening the motion and generating an increase in period and drop in amplitude.

Bilge keels are surprisingly common on many boats, both private and commercial because motorboats often lack stability, and this is an elegant, simple, and strong solution. The fins aren’t very wide, and they don’t protrude very far outwardly, so it’s a simple design to build and utilize. On sailboats, though, things are a little different. Because the bilge keel’s purpose is not only that of a stabilizing device, but also that of a keel, they tend to be longer, resulting in the appearance of legs of sorts.

The primary function of a bilge keel on most ships is to help dampen the rolling motion of the vessel. Other minor benefits of the bilge keel include bilge protection during grounding and greater longitudinal strength at the bilge. The bilge keel’s dampening function is tiny but effective, and it comes at no expense after boat construction. It is carefully positioned on the ship to avoid excessive drag when underway. Moreover, alternative positions of the bilge keel may be tried on the model so as to anticipate power requirements in order to obtain a minimum drag.

Pros and Cons of Bilge Keels

Bilge keels have a number of distinct benefits over full and fin keels. The fact that the boat can be beached is the most essential feature, making it a popular design in tidal areas. The use of bilge keels is particularly popular along the British coast, where fishermen keep their boats in tidal ports. Another significant benefit is that the boat may be stored on its keels, which makes dry storage and maintenance much easier.

Bilge keels are more effective for high angles of roll than for small angles of roll. Also, the reduction in rolling motion is larger for a boat moving forward than for a stationary boat. The roll energy of the ship is passed to the water particles in the region of the ship’s hull, making them passive stabilizers. Keep in mind that the installation of bilge keels is not suitable for all ships. An icebreaker, for example, requires clean hull contours so that boat will be able to steer onto the ice and collapse it.

The bilge keels have huge levers around the rolling axis, and the forces on them provide a large moment opposing the rolling, despite their size. They have the ability to reduce roll amplitude by more than a third. Their impact is often amplified by forwarding speed. Note that in still water, they are aligned with the flow of water past the hull in order to reduce drag. When the ship is rolling, the drag increases, causing the ship to slow down slightly.

Bear in mind that a sailboat with bilge keels can stand upright on flat terrain due to their length and the fact that they extend beyond the lowest point of the hull. The advantage is undeniable in this case. The ability of a boat to stand upright while aground greatly expands your options. If you prefer to spend the night on the shore, your boat can stand flat. Many keelless boats, or those with retractable keels, take advantage of this feature as well. It’s also something that makes life a lot easier for sailors, especially in low-tide locations.

So, the major advantages of bilge keels include a shallow draught and great protection when grounding. In addition, a bilge keel can dry out on a flat bottom and some designs are also able to perform better windward than long keels; similar to fin keels. On the other hand, the disadvantages of bilge keels include less speed and pointing when sailing windward. Also, when the boat is well-heeled it is possible that waves might slap under the windward keel. Lastly, it can topple over in case one keel encounters a soft ground or a hole.

Bilge Keel Properties

Keep in mind that bilge keels are a broad term that encompasses a wide range of design modifications. Bilge keels are, strictly speaking, additional to a long central keel installed near the bilge. In this case, the hull turns from the bottom to the side of the boat. These were traditionally non-structural, shallow, and lengthy, with the goal of reducing rolling. Twin keels, on the other hand, completely replace the central keel and are structurally modified to make them the principal ballast-bearing hull appendages.

There were some early twin keel designs that simply placed two shallow-draught keels on either side of the centreline. Meaning that they were situated at right angles to the waterline and parallel to the centreline. However, these boats used to sag to leeward when sailing upwind and lacked sufficient hull reinforcing at the attachment spots. So, modern keels were developed and they are now more hydrodynamically aligned. In addition, some say that they give at least as much lateral resistance as a single keel, but with more drag in theory.

Because of the additional reinforcement needed to handle loads of the ballast and drying out, a boat with two keels will be heavier. Subsequently, it will have a higher center of gravity due to the reduced draught. Modern construction, narrow-chord keels, and ballast bulbs, among other things, help to mitigate these issues.

Bilge keelboats are usually regarded to provide the advantages of short draught and the ability to dry out upright in low water at the sacrifice of performance. However, that is not the full picture. In other words, a well-designed twin-keel boat may perform better on average than some single-keel boats. It must be stated, however, that many of the early bilge keel designs were ineffective. These had very shallow keels with little to no aerofoil shaping and were attached to the boat vertically. It’s no surprise that these boats didn’t sail well, especially windward, despite having high directional stability, which has long been a desirable feature in cruising boats.

>>Also Read: Full Keel Vs Fin Keel On Sailboats

Bilge Keel VS Fin Keel – The Bottom Line

The comparison between bilge and fin keels can be a contentious subject. While it may appear that fin keels are preferred by the majority of new boat buyers, there is a sizable undercurrent of sailors who prefer boats that can take the ground. While fin keels theoretically give a deeper center of gravity, marginally less drag, and greater lateral resistance, making them better at sailing to windward, they are a recent development, and it wasn’t long ago that all sailboats were long-keeled and could dry out on legs or alongside a harbor wall. If you want a stable boat and the ability to beach your boat and don’t really care about performance then go for a bilge keel. If you opt for speed and agility go for a fin keel boat but note that these tend to be more vulnerable to damage.

I hope that this article will help you make the right decision. Good luck with your research!

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Sail Far Live Free

Keel types and what they say about sailors.

I tend to think that keel type is only one variable, the others being hull form and rig. Bob Perry says don't try and defend the full keel on its performance merits... Fair enough, but how do you define performance? I wonder if a lot of the grumbling about fin keels hasn't more to do with the fact that so many modern designs are inherently compromised in the quest for speed and luxury accommodations. Sadly, a lot of modern design is a reflection of society at large, where people simply don't have any time... As you alluded to, it depends on what your priorities are. Does "sailing" mean racing around the cans with evening cocktails and wife swapping in the marina, or bluewater passage-making? I will say that when you're 200 miles out in the Gulf of Alaska, and it's sketchy enough that the kids are scared silent, and the wife is giving you "that look", the ability to point a couple degrees higher and wring another knot out of a reach suddenly takes a backseat.

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Boat Keels & Fins: 7 Types Explained (For Beginners)

A keel is basically a structural component of a boat or ship which looks like a fin that extends at the bottom of a boat on the center-line.

A keel of the boat is usually the first component that is constructed while building a boat. The main purpose of a keel is to offer both strength and balance to a ship or boat while it is in the water.

These keels are available in different designs, as explained below:

Table of Contents

7 Types of Boat Keels Explained

Keels may be found in six varying designs, giving rise to six keel types.

They include:

• Bilge keels
• Centerboard keels
• Canting keels 

1) Full Keels

This particular keel by design covers at least half of the boat´s length.

It contains a forward edge that bends upwards, while its aft edge usually links to a rudder. This type of keel has a key advantage of providing directional stability as well as relatively safe and strong grounding of the boat or ship.

When referring to safe grounding, the full keel is safer if the boat gets to lie on hardened ground.

The full keel offers a stable and strong balancing surface for the hull whether the boat is along the coast or while traveling.

A boat or ship which is made with a full keel rides smoothly while traveling in the water, providing great directional stability. For instance, if the full keelboat is well balanced, it enables a boat to stay in the compass direction with the keel keeping the boat in a steady direction.

A full keel design is the traditional style of older wooden boats and many newer boats.  It has many years of experience that provides a comfortable and safe boat. 

2) Fin Keels

This type of keel has a length that is less than half of the hull length. It is designed with a flat shape that is sharp-pointed at its trailing edge and resembles a shark’s fin. This type of keel is very fast , it contains less wetted surface as compared to full keels, and it also has a deeper draft than the others.

Often, the deeper the fin keel´s draft is, the better it makes a ship or boat sail.

When it comes to speed and racing, as well as performance, the fin keel is unbeatable.

3) Bulb Keels

This particular keel is often referred to as a shoal draft fin keel. Typically, a deep fin keel is made shorter and then connected with a torpedo-like bulb made from lead material at the bottom of the keel.

It is specially designed to be shallow to allow sailing or cruising within the Bahamas or the Chesapeake Bay as well as other areas with shoal water depths.

However, this design does not significantly compromise the boat´s performance since they have been used on older racing sailboats.  

If you are planning to sail over shoal waters, a bulb keel may be appropriate.  Sometimes, they are not as shallow as other special full keelboats, however.

4) Wing Keels

The Wing Keel may be used as an alternative when sailing in shoal waters.

This does not use one bulb at the bottom of the keel; instead, it makes use of two plates that are attached laterally at the bottom of the fin keel.

This type is considered by some to be better when it comes to performance as compared to bulb keels since it minimizes tip vortex turbulence while sailing. Its draft is usually less.

Additionally, since the two sides are designed in a manner that they offset each other, as the boat heels while sailing, the lateral resistance is not reduced as much as with straight or bulb keels.

However, this type of keel is hard to free in case the boat gets stuck into the muck. Their wings usually go deep and grip onto the bottom of the ground, making it difficult to release once it gets stuck.

Some of the advantages of a wing keel include:

• Minimized draught
• deeper center of gravity, which implies they have better righting moments
• re-engineered water flow above the keel foot implying that they have high efficiency and results in better sailing characteristics.

On the other hand, its disadvantages include:

• It can be more difficult to free if the boat goes aground
• this type of keel is likely to collect objects such as lobster pots as it sails
• and weed may grow at the bottom of the wings, which can become hard to remove.

5) Bilge Keels

These double bilge keel makes a boat stay upright in case of a dried out low tide.

This design results in a shallower draught as compared to fin keels. This feature makes it appropriate for sailing in shallow waters along the coastlines.

However, this type of keel does not perform as well as a single keel and is therefore used for sailing instead of racing.

6) Centerboard Keels

This is yet another alternative that may be used in shoal waters.

The centerboard keel contains a base keel, which has an internal centerboard that rotates downward to create a deeper keel when sailing.

If the waters are deep, the sailor gets better performance with the centerboard down. If you are sailing in shoal waters, you should sail with the centerboard upwards.

This feature is important as it helps to provide the boat with a performance similar to a deep keel and yet to offer improved maneuverability in shoal waters.

However, the main disadvantage of the Centerboard keel is maintenance. It is difficult and problematic when it develops mechanical issues.

7) Canting Keels

This type of keel is the most unique when it comes to performance.

It is connected onto a special (strong) hinge, and as the boat or ship heels, the crew uses hydraulics to move the keel in the windward direction.

This process of moving the keel in a different direction from your heading direction makes it possible to maximize the lateral force and the righting force, to sail faster.

The main challenging posed by this keel is maintenance due to the complex design of the canting keel.  It is usually only found in specialized racing boats.

It has a promising future when it comes to racing, but it is not recommended too often because of its complicated operations.

Common Problems With Boat Keel and Fins

First, fins and keels are not protected from potential external impacts. By their design, they are long components with lever-like arms.

Therefore, if an underwater object was to be hit, like a sunken piece of log or even the sea bed, the force that would result is likely to be multiplied before being re-transmitted onto the entire boat over the keel area.

Therefore, the small surface is likely to encounter excess loads, which may result in cracks.

For instance, on the Chesapeake Bay, the majority of the creeks range from 4.5 -5 feet downwards. Boats and small ships that attempt to get too close to shore may often get grounded at some point. The moment grounding happens, the force which results and exerts pressure onto the keel is strong enough to generate cracks on the keel or along the hull.

The cracks are only physical indications of the damage caused.

For instance, the bolts which are connecting the keel and the hull at the bottom of the bilge may be frequently wet, resulting in bolts rusting and getting corroded.

When this happens, the forces together with rusted bolts will result in the keel falling off. This is dangerous and can cause severe accidents.

When the keel is removed or damaged, and the keel bolts develop holes, it allows water to flow into the hull. If the holes remain in that condition for a while, this may cause the boat to sink as a result of the incoming water.

Also, when the keel has been compromised in some way, the ballast or righting weight, which helps to counter the sails, is eliminated. In this case, if strong wind heels over your boat, it may result in the boat capsizing!

To make it worse, after the ship has capsized, you will not be able to right it since the ballast will not be there. Therefore, when a keel is destroyed, it makes the sailing horrible!

Finally, if you want to sail a boat with a fin and keel, it is recommended to avoid sailing through shallow waters. In case your boat gets grounded, the underwater appendages may be destroyed, and repairing such elements is very expensive and time-consuming.

You should take a fin keelboat or ship as a deep water machine! In deep waters, it glides over and through the water waves efficiently and easily.

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What are the pros and cons of different keels?

We all sail for different reasons, in different cruising grounds and use our yachts differently, so it makes sense that there is no one-size-fits-all keel design. At Sirius, however, we like to make the perfect yacht for each individual owner. One of the ways we serve our customers is our choice of keels – at least six different options for each model. It’s one of the ways we stand out – or should that be stand up?

We offer three styles of keel: fin, twin and lifting swing keel. All of our keels excel in many ways, but every design does have drawbacks – this is not unique to Sirius, but the keel affects the way you use the boat, so it’s important to choose the right one for you.

These are the keels we currently offer:

Standard Fin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Performance Fin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Medium Fin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Shallow Fin (310 DS) Shallow Twin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Performance Twin (35 DS, 40 DS) Lifting Swing Keel (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS)

Does the choice of keel compromise ocean capability?

For Sirius yachts, absolutely not. It’s important to realise that choosing one keel style over the other does not affect the yacht’s righting moment or compromise its ocean-going capabilities at all!

Whichever keel you choose, deep or shallow, twin or fin, they all have the same stability. This is achieved by putting more weight in the bulbs of the shallower keels as the shorter lever can be balanced with higher weight. Most of the blue water cruising and circumnavigations in Sirius Yachts have been made with twin-keel or reduced/shallow fin keel yachts.

Does keel choice affect performance?

As our shallow keels are heavier the weight dampens the yachts’ motion at sea, but as a downside, you have more weight to move with sails or engine. Once you’re moving there isn’t a difference but when tacking or gybing, or when not steered well, you will lose a bit in sailing performance. The shallower draught yachts also lose a few degrees to windward compared to their deeper keeled sisters, but they are still good all-round performers. Our customers with racing backgrounds always try to go for a keel as deep and light as their sailing area permits, either with a single or twin keel.

Pros and cons of fin keels

The standard keel on our yachts is a fin keel. Most sailing boats today use a fin keel because it gives a good all-round performance on all points of sail. By keeping the ballast lower it gives the most comfortable motion. The main downsides are that the draught (the depth of water required to stay afloat) is the greatest, and it’s very important to avoid running aground on a falling tide. Fin keel boats cannot dry out without additional support, either from a harbour wall or by fitting a pair of beaching legs. Some fin keel yachts are not built strongly enough to stand on their keels when out of the water, so they can’t dry out alongside a harbour wall and they need to be kept in a special cradle when stored ashore to avoid the risk of the hull deforming under its own weight. By contrast, all Sirius yachts can stand on their keels for any length of time with no problem at all.

We offer four types of fin keel. The standard fin is available on the 310 DS, 35 DS and 40 DS and is fully cast-iron. It offers the best value, good performance, and excellent responsiveness. It is the deepest of our fixed-keel options, so if you want less draught you may want to look at our other fin keels.

We also offer a performance fin keel for all our models. This uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb at the tip (bottom). The structural strength of cast iron means the fin is the slimmest profile, but lead is denser than iron so the same volume of lead will weigh around 1.4 times more than cast iron, giving more righting moment. The heavier, softer lead down low has less volume in the bulb so achieves a slimmer profile with less drag and therefore better performance.

A lead bulb is also safer if it hits something. Lead can absorb 60% of the energy in flexing and deformation so that only 40% of the force will be transferred to the laminated structure of the keel reinforcement. A lead bulb is very forgiving and easy to reshape and will not start to rust where the coating is damaged. We can use less volume of lead than iron, and achieve better stability than a wholly cast-iron keel. We can also reduce the depth of the keel and retain excellent stability. However, lead is more expensive than cast iron and the bulb must be attached very securely to the iron fin, so this option does cost more.

If you want less draught, we also offer a medium fin. This reduces the draught of the 310 DS and 35 DS by around 40cm/1ft 4in and 55cm/1ft 9in on the 40 DS. Like the performance fin, it uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. To retain the keel’s grip in the water it has to have a longer chord (the distance from fore to aft). While this gives the boat better directional stability, it does make her a little less responsive and a little slower to manoeuvre.

On our 310 DS, we offer a shallow fin option – a special version for very shallow cruising grounds. This fin keel offers the least draught of any of our fixed keel options at 1.15m/3ft 9in and draws 10cm/4in less than the twin keel version. The keel has a significantly longer chord (2.24m/7ft 4in compared to 0.7m/2ft 3in of the standard keel) so she has the reassuring directional stability of a long-keeled yacht but with better manoeuvrability.

Pros and cons of twin keels

Our twin keels are the most popular option. About 70-80% of all Sirius Yachts are delivered with them – and on the 40 DS it’s 90%. Some folk still believe there is a big performance penalty with twin keels. In the past this used to be true but it’s no longer the case with modern twin keel designs, from Sirius at least. We have conducted many two-boat comparison tests, often battling for hours, by ourselves, with owners, and for sailing magazines and we have found that there may only be one or two boat lengths of difference at the end of a long windward leg, if at all. At the end of many of these comparison tests, the crews could not point out which of the boats had the twin keel.

If you cruise tidal areas, twin keels will reward you time and time again. Not only do they give you a shallower draught than the typical fin keel, they also give you the ability to dry the yacht out, whether that’s for a motion-free night’s sleep, to explore cruising grounds others cannot reach, or just for cheaper mooring and maintenance costs.

We offer two styles of twin keels; performance and shallow draught. Both options have a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. The performance keels have a deeper draught and a thinner chord so they act and feel a bit livelier when sailing and manoeuvring. The shorter keels have a longer chord, but give you the ability to navigate shallower areas. Like all keel designs, twin keels do have some downsides. They are more expensive than fin keels, and when you’re sailing fast in choppy seas at a steep angle of heel, you can occasionally get a slapping sound when an air pocket is caught and pressed out under the windward fin. Lastly, we’ve yet to meet an owner who enjoys antifouling between the keels. Thankfully it only has to be done once a year and with twin keels you might get away with doing it less frequently. A twin keel yacht can be kept on a drying mooring, where fouling is reduced because the hull spends more time out of the water. And when you’re off cruising it’s easy to give the bottom a quick scrub while the yacht is dried out.

Our yachts will happily sit on their keels on a hard surface, like a drying grid, or for winter storage but on softer surfaces we use the rudder for additional support. The rudders on our twin keel yachts are specially reinforced for this: we use a Delrin sheave to take the weight of the hull and the tip of the rudder has a wide, foil-like foot to spread the weight.

A lifting swing keel

We are one of a few manufacturers to offer a lifting swing keel. There’s a lot of confusion with the term ‘lifting keel’, it seems to encompass all yachts that have centreboards, variable draught, lift-keels or swing keels. To us, a lifting keel boat should have all the ballasted weight of the boat in the keel, and that keel needs to be retracted into the hull.

Technically, a lifting keel is a keel that can be lifted or lowered and gives the boat the ability to dry out when the tide goes out. A lift-keel is a ballasted keel that raises and lowers vertically. A swing keel has a ballasted fin that has a single pivot point and the keel swings up into the boat. There are other variants of design, for example some have a lifting keel to reduce the draught of the vessel but they cannot dry out on it, others have a ballasted keel and ballasted grounding plate. All these examples have a keel that does two things: keep the boat upright and stop her sliding sideways. Our swing keel is designed with a NACA profile to give the most efficient performance.

Centreboard yachts have a centreplate to provide grip in the water and reduce leeway. The plate may carry only 15-20% of the ballast but the rest of the yacht’s ballast is within the hull and/or in the grounding plate. This is called an “integral keel” and is more common as it’s less complicated to build. The lower a yacht’s ballast is located, the better her stability, the more comfortable her motion and the better she stands up to her sail area. The most efficient place for the ballast is as low down on the deepest keel possible – this is why race boats have deep skinny keels with large torpedo-shaped bulbs on the bottom, but they don’t make practical cruising sailboats.

Our keel designs have more weight in the tip (bottom) – using a bulb on the fin and twin keel design and flaring the lower sections on our lifting swing keel yachts. You don’t have this with centreboard and integral keel yachts.

It might be surprising, but a lot of owners come to us thinking that a lifting swing keel is the best option for them. Sometimes it is, but about 98% of customers who approach us because we offer swing keels end up sailing away on a twin-keel Sirius.

The downsides of a lifting keel

A lifting swing keel does give you more cruising options. It will lift should you run into something and, of course, it gives you the shallowest draught. But that difference is only 40-50cm (1ft 4in to 1ft 8in) less draught than our shallow twin keel option. The lifting keel increases the complexity of the build and the final cost of the yacht; it also sometimes limits the internal layout and engine drive options, and you need to have twin rudders too. Twin rudders make the boat less manoeuvrable in a marina – you can opt for a third central rudder which does improve the handling, but again comes at an extra cost.

On the lifting swing keel, 40 and 310 owners are restricted to the use of a shaft drive, which is less efficient and you have to accept a bit more noise and vibration. When drying out, the drive is more vulnerable to damage, whereas it’s totally clear when taking the ground on twin keels. With twin keels, you also do not have to worry about something sticking out of the beach or stones lying around because the hull is high above the ground. With the hull up high, you do not have to dig a hole in the sand and slide down on your stomach to check or change your anodes as you would on a swing keel.

Sailors who are attracted to the idea of a lifting swing keel should carefully consider the pros and cons to compromise the least. When owners understand the repercussions of choosing a lifting keel yacht, many of them feel it restricts their options too much. They could have a lifting keel or they can sail with twin keels, dry out, have better close-quarters handling and save money in the process. Unless you need the shallowest possible draught – 0.75m (2ft 5in) on the 310 DS, 0.9m (2ft 11in) on the 35 DS or 0.95m (3ft 1in) on the 40 DS – a twin keel might well be a better option.

How are the keels attached?

The design of the keel is important but the way they are attached is just as important, if not more so. All of our fixed keels are through-bolted. Every keel has a wide flange at the root (top) of the keel and the flange sits into a reinforced recess in the hull. The flange and the recess work together to spread the loads of the keel/s into the yacht’s hull. The keels are bonded and bolted to the hull. We use up to twelve 20mm and 24mm bolts (per keel) and these go through rolled stainless steel backing plates inside the hull to spread the bolt loads evenly into the fully laminated keel grid which goes all the way up to the chainplates and also carries the mast support.

For our lifting swing keel, we laminate a substantial keel box as part of the hull to accept the keel and the hydraulic mechanism needed to retract the keel into the hull. Unlike most other boatbuilders we don’t use a grounding plate to take the weight of the yacht, our yachts sit on the length of the leading edge of the keel. Integral keels with the majority of the ballast in the grounding plates move the ballast (weight) from low down in the keel to inside the hull. This negatively affects the stability as the more weight you have lower down, the better.

We also don’t like grounding plates because they bring the hull in contact with the ground. By leaving 10-15 cm (4-6in) of the keel out of the hull when it’s retracted, most of the time the hull is kept clear of the beach and anything that could damage it.

The problem with too much form stability

With only 15-12% of their ballast in the centreboard, most lifting-keel yachts cannot rely on keel weight for stability so their hulls need to be designed with extra form stability instead. This means the hull sections have to be much wider and flatter. A flat-bottomed hull is not what you want for a comfortable ocean cruising yacht; it isn’t sea-kindly or easy to steer in waves and gusty winds conditions. We don’t make that compromise at Sirius. With all the ballast in the swinging part of our swing keel design, we can use the same seaworthy, ocean-capable hull shape designed for our yachts with fixed keels.

If you don’t know which keel would be best for your Sirius, contact us to discuss the type of sailing you intend to do, where you want to sail and what your cruising aspirations are.

General Manager – Torsten Schmidt SIRIUS-WERFT GmbH Ascheberger Straße 68 24306 Plön/Holstein

Fax: 0049 – 4522 – 744 61-29

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13 Popular Full Keel Sailboats Worth Considering

Full keel sailboats are very stable and durable - they are great for cruising long distances. But there are disadvantages too. Let's look at what models to consider, and why.

Here are 13 good full keel sailboats that are worth considering:

Nicholson 32

Island packet 380, folkboat 25, cape dory 36, vancouver 32, tradewind 33, endurance 50, westsail 32, hans christian 52.

First of all let's have a look at why you should even be preferring full keel sailboats to a more traditional, widespread classical fin keel design.

Full Keel Advantages

As with everything, there are plenty of pros and cons on each side. Full keels generally provide better handling if the weather gets tricky, they track better, provide more stability downwind, and generally stabilize the boat movements better.

Furthermore, they are way more robust, thus less prone to damage. Running ashore isn't as big of a deal as it is with a fin keel and your rudder and propeller will be more protected with the mass of the keel in front of them.

Full Keel Disadvantages

With more mass and drag comes less speed. Plus the large surface area underwater holding the direction will result in a wider turning radius, which might be annoying in smaller spaces.

Fin Keel vs Full Keel: Pros and Cons & When to Choose Which

Fin keel advantages.

The largest advantage of fin keels is their speed. They also provide better maneuvering and a better turning radius.

Fin Keel Disadvantages

It is inevitably more prone to damage though, wear and tear will be a way bigger issue than a full keel. They won't have your back when a gust comes since the water-resistance to the side will be smaller.

It seems then that for serious longer passages, liveaboards, and long-term sailing, full keels are better. As long as you don't care for speed as much, but are concerned about the boat having your back, this is the answer. So let's now look at the superstars of the full keel universe.

The very prototype of a long-distance tough cruiser. It has been with us since 1963 and happens to be among the first fiberglass boat models produced on a mass scale. Nicholson 32 went out of production in 1981 and it was a model approved for the 2018 Golden Globe Race, proving that even older Nicholsons are still standing strong due to their toughness and ease of repair.

They were supposedly as durable as if made out of steel. Though I'll leave up to you whether you want to see that as a marketing claim or reality, such a statement can not be made without some base.

Plus the newer models have a lot of interior space, are manageable for solo sailing, and provide a sturdy ride to take one around the world.

The story here is similar to the above Nicholson - meaning that we are looking at one long-lasting high-quality cruiser. Not just because of this specific model's build - Island Packet in general was always known for this. And it is among the very few companies that, in the modern era, keep making full keel boats.

In other words, you don't see many shipyards focusing on full keels these days, so if you want one and you would rather go with a new boat, Island Packet will be one of the stops you will very probably make when doing your research.

If you are looking for reliable cruisers, you will like this one, since cruising is what it was built for, even if it meant sacrificing some performance aspects. It has a wide beam, a lot of interior space, all of the amenities a comfy cruiser should have, such as a big refrigerator with a freezer, as well as a fully equipped kitchen. The long keel here serves as a comfort helper, since, as mentioned before, it adds to the stability and reduces motion.

Not to sound repetitive, but the word 'reliability' has to be mentioned again. It seems that boat builders who choose the full keel design have something in common.

But since this particular boat was born during the Second World War and has been going strong to this very day, what other words to describe it? It has the Nordic blood in its veins since it was thought into existence by the Scandinavian Yacht Racing Union and since it prefers just about everything over comfort.

The boat is very stable, not just because of its full keel, but also because of its insane 55% ballast ratio. For those who haven't come across this before, the ballast ratio is the ratio of the ballast weight relative to the boat weight. So for instance the nearly 9 tonne Bavaria 40 with its almost 3 tonne ballast has a ballast ratio around 30 percent.

Thus you can imagine that a boat that 'wastes' more than half of its weight on ballast is serious about rigidity. These are performance racer numbers. But of course, if you are designing a boat that has to withstand the Scandinavian storms, you don't have a choice than to go overboard with specs. So if this toughness is what you seek, look no further.

...although as far as I know, all Cape Dory boats have full keels, regardless of their length. Their 36-foot model is just their most popular one. Cape Dories are known for their sturdiness, ability to cross the oceans because of their stability, and relative ease of handling.

They were engineered by Carl Alberg, who was inspired by the Scandinavian Folkboat, where reliability is worth more than comfort, or the interior space. This boat rocks a heavy rig for hardcore traveling, but its 1.5-meter draft makes it ideal for coastal cruising as well.

What's quite interesting about this particular model is that during its lifespan it went through very few changes. Boats usually evolve, sailors' feedback is taken into consideration for upgrades, but Cape Dory 36 remained relatively unchanged inside or out. This is a big compliment, since the brand started out in 1963, stopped production in 1991, and sold its blueprints so that they could be built further. Talk about longevity.

Let's progress in technology! Just because a long keel is an old-fashioned or more traditional approach, it doesn't mean it remains monolithic in its ideology. There were innovations in the concept, such as cutaways in the keel, to reduce the biggest drawback of this design, the drag.

So it only makes sense that Vancouver, a company that had distinctiveness and innovation in its mission and vision, would take part in this. Their 32-foot model that begun its lifespan in the early eighties, had a deeply cutaway forefoot, plus a rudder that was wider the deeper it was underwater, meaning its widest point was at its lowest point. This was to increase efficiency, and rudder response.

Technicalities aside, this boat was very well made, no corners cut, no expenses spared. This resulted in quite pricey vessels, out of reach of many, but much time has passed since, so today it can be yours for around 40 000 USD and up. And since the build quality was so high back then, you can still enjoy a proper boat, usually at a higher quality than boats equal its age.

The great thing about Australian sailboat makers is that they design their boats for long passages. How else would they get off of the continent? Freya 39 is a good example of this since it has not only circled the globe many times but also won the Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race three times consecutively. And that's a famously hard race.

The boat is built like a tank, with thicker fiberglass walls than you would find in its rivals. Despite that, its owners claim to have crossed over two hundred miles per day on it, a figure that is well known when it comes to this model. Which sounds plausible with its 7.8 kts of hull speed.

Its construction makes her one stable boat since it has been noted that during races, it was able to carry a spinnaker longer than its competitors, well into the 30 knots of wind speed.

The only drawback here is that if you fancy it, since it is so highly valued, and in demand, it will be tricky to find one to buy. And once you do, prepare to pay around 60 000 - 90 000 USD for it.

This one comes with a story attached to it. Once upon a time, a naval engineer Nick attempted to sail around the world. Halfway through, his boat gave up, which meant a lot of trouble for Nick, but he exited this disaster with a pretty precise idea for what his next project would be. He set on to design a boat that would be so sturdy that his sailing misfortune would never repeat.

Out of this incident paired with a smart brain, Wylo 2 was born. To make sure his design stands, after putting this boat on the water, he proceeded to live on it, while circling the globe a few times.

Others, seeing this success, bought his designs and they became quite widespread. As you might have guessed, this boat has a lot of space for living, for storing equipment and provisions, so it is comfy to live on, not only for your body but because of its sturdiness, for your mind too. These designs have accomplished some astonishing feats in all corners of the world, so if you put your trust in this design, you won't be making a mistake.

If I said this boat is sturdy and ready for just about any destination, I'd really be repeating myself now. So while that's true, let's talk about what's special about Tradewinds 33.

It has a rather small cockpit, so on-deck dinners while watching the sunset with the whole crew might be a bit improvised, but the space saved is used for an impressively spacious interior as well as a nearly flat deck. So moving about is a pleasure.

For liveaboards, this is a good idea, since storage space will be plentiful. Plus it's an elegant looking boat, with a forestaysail as a default setup. So rock on.

Time for a larger boat. So that if you want something that won't lack anything you might wish for, including space, I have something for you too. All Endurances are full keels, so if you fancy a smaller model, there is a way.

Even though it is relatively new, (you will find models from around 1995) it will make you feel like a medieval pirate, with its old-school helm, wooden interior, and a spacious aft cabin that has large windows facing back!

It is a proper bluewater cruiser, built in South Africa based on a famous Peter Ibold's Endurance blueprint. It sleeps a whole family, so if a circumnavigation with a few friends is what you seek, this is one for you.

If you are up for some single-handed sailing, pause here for a bit. Small sailboats are usually nimble, on the top of it, this one is also quite sturdy and stable, as full keels are.

You won't find much space below the deck, so don't expect to have a party of more than around two people, but at least it's a good looking interior, with charming round windows and many of the usual amenities.

They say that Mason sailboats are premium quality for a non-premium price. I wonder whether them being built in Taiwan has something to do with it.

Here is a quote by an owner of a 1986 model that says it all: "I am absolutely captivated by the boat and am not objective at all in my feelings toward her. The general construction is of the highest standard. Like an Irish hunter, she is a workhorse and a lady-maybe not quite as fast around six furlongs as a racehorse, but for the long pull, through timber, brush, and over walls, she is really something."

Now although this owner admits subjectivity, this boat indeed was built with quality in mind. Sturdiness too - not only is its fiberglass hull properly solid, but it also features longitudinal stringers to add further rigidity.

There is a lot of brightwork, which might sound nice at first glance, but since it requires quite a lot of maintenance, some owners even said they could do with less wood if it meant less upkeep.

All in all though, when it comes to getting a lot of boat for not a lot of money, this is it.

Does it make sense to even praise how heavy and sturdy this boat is built? Probably not at this point. Just know it ticks all the boxes. It is made of 12 layered fiberglass for Pete's sake.

The design was based on ideas of the Norwegian engineer Colin Archer, who made his boats such that they could withstand the northern seas. Pair that with the fact that the interior here is surprisingly spacious with 6 ft 2 in of headroom and you've got yourself one comfortable circumnavigator.

The issue stemming from the heavy build and a full keel, which is a slower pace, applies here more than usual though. This boat is absolutely reliable, but don't expect winning speed races.

Sadly, Westsail 32 was in production only for some 9 years. Sales were booming, they made over 800 boats, but bad business practices and cash flow issues resulted in its demise.

Not the author, the boat. If beauty and elegance are what you are after, this one will catch your eye. Just as was the case with Mason, these boats were produced in Taiwan. But since the goal of the engineers was to create the 'ultimate cruising sailboat' and they spared no expense, expect to pay hundreds of thousands of dollars for these boats, even though decades old.

The gorgeous classical design paired with the high build quality makes these exclusive pieces of work, plus quite a modern one since they ceased production in the 90s. So if you don't mind the higher price mark and are looking for something relatively new, that will, thanks to the build quality, last you for many years to come, this might be your choice.

Full keel sailboats are sturdy. Not only is that because of the full keel which itself provides a lot of structural integrity. But also because the choice of putting the full keel in means you are building something that prefers ruggedness and reliability over anything else. So it is logical that the rest of the boat will be built in the same fashion.

So if you don't mind sacrificing the few knots of extra speed, if you don't mind the smaller pool to choose from, if you want a boat that will have your back in pretty much any situation and place you will choose to go to, if you want to sail the Scandinavian design, go for it.

Arthur Rushlow

What a great page. Both my wife and I sailed Faulk Boats out of Canada prior to our moving to Florida. Once we arrived in Florida we had a Soveral 26 built we raced for three years prior to my returning to College and now 5 degrees later I am an Anglican Bishop with no boat.

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You may also like, 5 surprising advantages of a full keel sailboat.

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Types of Sailboat Hulls

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Sailboats come in numerous hull shapes. These include single-hull monohulls, along with double and triple-hull multihulls.

There are two main categories of sailboat hulls: monohulls and multihulls. Common monohull types include flat-bottom vessels, fin-keel racers, bulb and bilge keel cruisers, heavy semi-displacement sailboats, and dense full-keel displacement cruisers. Multihull designs include catamarans and trimarans.

In this article, we'll cover the most common types of sailboat hulls along with their best uses. We'll explain the difference between monohulls and multihulls, along with how keel shape influences sailboat performance.

We sourced the information for this article from sailing experts, hull shape guides, and the written wisdom of famous sailboat designers. Additionally, we researched sailboat sales figures to determine the most popular vessel configurations available today.

Table of contents

‍ Importance of Sailboat Hull Design

A sailboat is defined by its rig and hull shape. Sailboat hull shape is one of the deciding factors on how it will handle. Additionally, the shape (and displacement) of a sailboat hull can be used to determine its strengths and weaknesses. Learning about sailboat hull shape can help you understand what kind of boat you need and what your vessel is capable of.

You can easily categorize sailboats based on their hull shape. For example, a heavy deep-draft displacement hull is likely a slow, steady, and comfortable cruiser. In contrast, a sleek flat-bottomed sailboat or catamaran is likely built for speed and could easily outpace even the most nimble displacement cruisers.

The most common kind of sailboat is the monohull. When you think of a sailboat, probably think of a monohull. The term simply means that the vessel has one single hull and nothing more. This is in contrast to multihulls such as catamarans, which are easy to spot and differentiate from traditional designs.

Monohulls are popular because they work. They're easy to build and narrow enough to fit in most marina dock spaces. Monohulls are also generally easy to handle in a variety of conditions, both fair and foul.

One drawback of monohull designs is that they are not quite as stable as most multihulls, though monohulls can recover more easily from a serious roll or capsize. They also cost a lot less, as the vast majority of production sailboats ever constructed were of the same basic single-hull configuration.

Centerboards and Swing Keels

The windward performance of sailboats is greatly improved by the use of a long keel or centerboard. The centerboard is the most simple type of stabilizing device used on sailboats. Usually, the centerboard is simply a long fin that protrudes from the bottom of the hull.

The centerboard keeps the boat on track when the wind is not moving in the boat's direction of travel. This is why sailboats can sail at different angles to the wind without being pushed to the side. A key characteristic of centerboards is that they can be raised and lowered, which is convenient on small boats that need to be trailered or beached.

Swing keels are similar to centerboards in that they can be raised and lowered, though they pivot on a hinge instead of sliding up and down in a truck. Swing keels are either recessed into the hull or held in a housing just below it, which usually also contains much of the boat's ballast. Swing keel designs free up cabin space that would normally be occupied by a bulky centerboard trunk.

Centerboards and most swing keels are an alternative to a permanently affixed keel. They're generally not considered to be as seaworthy as other hull designs, so their use is confined primarily to inland and coastal cruising.

Monohull Sailboat Hull Shapes

When in the water, it's difficult to distinguish between the different types of monohull shapes. In most cases, you have to pull the boat out of the water to figure out what hull shape you're dealing with. Next, we'll go over the most common monohull sailboat shapes and their uses.

Flat-Bottom Sailboats

Flat bottom sailboats are the easiest to build and often the fastest. These vessels have a very shallow draft and are often lightweight, so they slide easily and quickly across the water. Flat bottom sailboats make excellent racing boats and 'gunkholers,' which are primarily used for camping and hopping between shallow Islands.

Flat bottom sailboats usually have centerboards or swing keels, which makes them great for shallow water, beaching, and towing on a trailer. The use of flat bottom sailboats is confined primarily to inland and coastal waters, as a flat bottom does not handle well in swells and rough weather. Flat bottom sailboats pound hard on chop, and they lack the low center of gravity that's necessary for good stability.

Fin Keel Sailboat Hulls

The fin keel is a popular alternative to centerboards, and vessels utilizing this low-profile hull shape have proven to be quite seaworthy. Fin keels are popular on fast racing boats and lightweight cruisers. A fin keel resembles a centerboard, but it usually extends much further from the base of the hull.

The majority of a sailboat's draft comes from the fin keel, as the hulls of these sailboats tend to be rounded and shallow. They resemble flat-bottom designs, but slight rounding significantly increases comfort. Fin keel sailboats are ideal for racing and coastal cruising, and some models can be used for extended offshore passages.

Bulb Keel Sailboat Hulls

A bulb keel sailboat hull usually resembles most fin keel varieties. The hulls of these vessels tend to be shallow and rounded, with a long and thin fin extending from the base of the hull. A bulb keel is essentially just a thin blade with a bulb on the bottom.

Bulb keels are different from fin keels as they usually contain additional ballast weight for stability. The hydrodynamic properties of bulb keels are proven to be efficient. As a result, these boats can also be quite fast. In a direct comparison, a vessel with a bulb keel will likely be more seaworthy than the same sailboat with only a fin keel or a centerboard.

Bilge Keel Sailboat Hulls

The hull shape of a bilge keel sailboat usually resembles that of a bulb or fin keel sailboat, with one major distinction. Instead of one long and thin keel descending from the center of the hull, a bilge keel sailboat has two lengthier fins offset on the port and starboard side.

The idea behind the bilge keel design is that when the vessel heels to one side, one of the two keels will be straightened out. This, in theory, provides better tracking and improves stability. It also distributes ballast evenly on both sides. Bilge keels can also improve motion comfort, and they can reduce the vessel's draft by a small margin.

Bilge keel sailboats offer a balance between seaworthiness and speed. These vessels can be used as bluewater cruisers and coastal cruisers. They can also hold their own in any yacht club regatta.

While a bilge keel sailboat may not be ideal for cruising the North Atlantic during the winter, it can certainly make a safe and comfortable passage maker that can gain a knot or two of speed above its heavier counterparts.

Semi-Displacement Sailboat Hulls

Now, we'll look at some true bluewater cruising designs. The semi-displacement hull features a long and deep keel that runs from about the center of the hull all the way back to the rudder. Semi-displacement hulls get deeper the further back you go, reaching their longest point at the very aft end of the boat.

The offshore benefits of a long and deep keel are numerous, as this hull shape provides an enormous amount of stability and a very low center of gravity. The design itself it's quite old, and it's featured on many classic cruising sailboats and workboats.

Though less common in the modern era than more contemporary fin keel designs, a traditional semi-displacement sailboat offers easy handling and enhanced motion comfort. Semi-displacement hulls tend to have a deep draft and therefore are not ideal for shallow water. They handle confidently in all conditions, though they usually aren't as fast as newer designs.

Displacement Sailboat Hulls

Displacement hulls, also known as full keel hulls, are the bulldozers of the sailboat world. These traditional vessels are deep, heavy, relatively slow, and capable of plowing through the roughest weather conditions.

Displacement hulls have a long keel that begins at the bow and extends all the way after the rudder. Like semi-displacement hulls, full keel sailboats offer excellent motion comfort and confident handling.

Displacement hulls have the best directional stability and downwind maneuvering abilities. Their handling is more forgiving, and they're less jumpy at the helm. Many of these boats heel gently and give the crew more time to respond to changing conditions.

The primary downside to displacement hulls is their high cost and sheer mass. Displacement boats are large and take up a lot of space. They're usually too tall and heavy for trailering, so they tend to remain in the water most of the time.

Displacement hulls aren't made to just sit at the dock or jump around the lake; they're designed for real-deal offshore sailing. They also have the roomiest cabins, as the hull extends further down and longer than any other hull shape.

Now, let's examine multihull sailboat designs and why you may want to consider one. Some of the earliest seagoing vessels had multiple hulls, usually featuring one long hull (occupied by the crew) and a small stabilizing hull off to one side.

Multihulls have only recently become popular, and they make up a decent portion of the modern production boat market. This is because of their numerous design benefits and spacious cabins. Multihulls are almost guaranteed to be more expensive than monohulls (both new and used), and the used market is still saturated with expensive luxury cruising sailboats.

Modern multihull sailboats feature a large pilothouse in the center and plenty of cabin space in each full-size hull. They offer excellent motion comfort and achieve very high speeds. Due to their wide beam, they provide spacious living spaces and excellent stability. Here are the two main types of multihull sailboats.

From above, a catamaran looks like two thin monohull sailboats lashed together and spaced apart. Fundamentally, that's exactly what they are. Except catamarans have a very shallow draft and the capability to reach very high speeds.

Catamarans have two hulls instead of one, and each hull is typically a mirror of the other. They achieve their space using width rather than length, so a 30-foot catamaran has significantly more interior room than a 30-foot monohull.

Their primary drawback is that, due to their width, catamarans usually require two standard dock spaces instead of one. But at sea, they don't heel over dramatically like monohulls, which makes them much more comfortable to eat, sleep, and cook inside of.

Trimarans follow the same basic design principles as catamarans, except they have a third hull in the center. From above, a trimaran looks like a monohull with two smaller hulls lashed to the sides. Unlike a catamaran, the primary living space of a trimaran is in the large center hull. Trimarans are essentially just monohulls with stabilizers on the side, resembling ancient sailing canoes.

Trimarans have the same spatial and stability benefits as catamarans, though they can achieve higher speeds and better sea keeping. This is because of the additional stability provided by the center hall. Trimarans tend to be costlier than catamarans, though many sailors believe that the benefits outweigh the cost.

Best Sailboat Hull Shape for Speed

If we take wave height and weather conditions out of the equation, the fastest sailboats are usually the longest. Sailboats are limited by hull speed and sail plan size regardless of their hull shape. That said, the fastest sailboats tend to be flat bottom monohulls, fin keel monohulls, and trimarans.

Best Sailboat Hull Shape for Motion Comfort

The best sailboat for motion comfort is the catamaran. These wide and seaworthy vessels 'stance up' and minimize rolling. They also come close to completely eliminating heeling.

Wide and stable multihulls are popular because they alleviate some of the most common complaints of sailors. Trimarans are also an excellent choice for comfort, as their stabilizers minimize the effect of rolling in heavy seas.

Most Seaworthy Sailboat Hull Shape

Today, many people consider multihulls to be the most seaworthy design on the market. However, seaworthiness is more than just average stability in rough weather. Many Sailors argue that traditional displacement sailboat hull designs are the most seaworthy.

Displacement hulls have a low center of gravity which improves their knockdown survivability. In other words, in the (rare) event of a displacement boat knockdown, the weight of the keel is more likely to swing the boat back up and out of trouble. Multihulls cannot recover from a knockdown, as they like the pendulum-like recoil ability.

Most Spacious Sailboat Hull Type

The most spacious hull sailboat type is the catamaran. Catamarans have two nearly full-size hulls (one on each side) plus a large central pilothouse that resembles the main cabin of a large powerboat.

Many typical catamarans fit an entire kitchen into the Pilot House along with four private births and two full-sized heads in its hulls. Some mid-size catamarans even come with a bathtub, which is essentially unheard of on equivalent monohulls.

Spaciousness varies on small monohulls. Larger cabins are usually found on bulb and bilge keel designs, as swing keel and centerboard boats need somewhere to hide their skegs. Centerboard boats are the least spacious, as the centerboard trunk must occupy the middle of the cabin space.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Watch CBS News

5th body recovered from Mike Lynch's family yacht off Sicily as questions mount over luxury vessel's sinking

By Anna Matranga

Updated on: August 22, 2024 / 10:48 AM EDT / CBS News

Rome — Divers recovered the body of a fifth victim of the Bayesian superyacht wreck Thursday morning, Sicily Civil Protection Chief Salvo Cocina confirmed to CBS News, and the Reuters news agency cited Italian Interior Ministry official Massimo Mariani as saying it was the body of Mike Lynch, the British tech magnate whose wife owned the vessel.

Italian Coast Guard spokesperson Vincenzo Zagarola told CBS News that teams were still working to recover the body of the sixth and final person left missing when the boat went down. The six bodies had remained stuck inside the 184-foot luxury yacht for days after it sank early Monday morning off the coast of Palermo, Sicily in a severe thunderstorm.

Four bodies were retrieved Wednesday from the Bayesian, which was resting on the seafloor at a 90 degree angle at a depth of over 160 feet. The vessel's position and items that moved around inside the ill-fated yacht made recovery efforts slow and hazardous.

Italian authorities have not officially identified the remains recovered from the Bayesian, which belonged to Lynch's wife Angela Bacares. She was among the 15 people who managed to escape from the boat as it sank quickly on Monday morning, but Lynch and his 18-year-old daughter Hannah were among those left missing.

Another victim, the Bayesian superyacht's chef, was found dead soon after the boat capsized. 

Along with Lynch and his daughter, the technology mogul's American lawyer Chris Morvillo and his wife Neda, and British banker Jonathan Bloomer and his wife, were believed to have been trapped in the yacht when it sank.

Questions as to how the state-of-the-art boat could have gone down so quickly have mounted steadily since the accident. 

Italian media were reporting Thursday that, after questioning survivors and witnesses, Italian prosecutors had opened an official investigation into a possible "culpable shipwreck." No individuals had been named as potential suspects.

On Thursday, Giovanni Costantino, head of the Italian Sea Group, which owns the company Perini Navi, which built the Bayesian in 2008, blamed human error.

"A Perini ship resisted Hurricane Katrina, a Category 5 [hurricane]. Does it seem to you that it can't resist a tornado from here?" he remarked to the newspaper Corriere della Sera. "It is good practice when the ship is at anchor to have a guard on the bridge, and if there was one he could not have failed to see the storm coming. Instead, it took on water with the guests still in the cabin. ... They ended up in a trap, those poor people ended up like mice."

One possible factor could have been that the ship's keel — a fin-like structure that sticks out from the bottom of the boat, designed to provide stability and counterweight to the huge mast — was not fully deployed. The yacht had a retractable keel that could be raised for entry into shallow harbors. But a raised keel at sea would have made the ship much more vulnerable to instability in the strong winds that struck early Monday morning.

When asked whether divers had seen the ship's keel in a raised position, a spokesman for the Italian Coast Guard told CBS News that only the prosecutor investigating the incident could confirm such information but that the Coast Guard "was not denying" it. 

The ship's captain, 51-year-old New Zealand national James Cutfileld, was questioned for two hours by prosecutors on Thursday, according to Italian media.

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Prosecutors to investigate Mike Lynch superyacht’s keel

Prosecutors will investigate the keel on Mike Lynch’s superyacht after it was found “partially elevated”.

On Wednesday, specialist divers continued to recover the remains of the missing passengers, and the tech entrepreneur and his 18-year-old daughter Hannah are believed to be among those pulled out of the water.

While exploring the Bayesian 165ft underwater on the seabed, it was reported that the vessel’s retractable keel was partially raised, raising questions about the boat’s stability at the time of the sinking.

The fin-like structure under the hull helped to stabilise the boat, acting as a counterweight to the mast, and stretched to 9.83 metres when the vessel’s centreboard was fully extended, according to a brochure about the yacht’s performance .

Experts have suggested the keel would normally be fully extended for extra stability during bad weather.

Dr Jean-Baptiste Souppez, a senior lecturer in Mechanical, Biomedical and Design Engineering at Aston University, and a fellow of the Royal Institution of Naval Architects, said: “The keel is vital to the stability of sailing vessels, and a deeper keel will provide additional stability.

“However, this is at the expense of draft, meaning shallow-water harbours and anchorages may become out of reach.

“For this reason, large superyachts are typically fitted with a lifting keel, allowing part of the keel to retract inside the vessel and reduce the draft. In such a case, the stability of the vessel is greatly diminished.

“Part of the investigation will, therefore, look into the keel. It is important to note that, even if found partially up, this could result from the impact with the bottom of the sea as the vessel sank, so early external observations may not be sufficient to draw conclusions.”

Tom Sharpe, a former Royal Navy frigate commander and current Telegraph columnist , said: “If it turns out that this keel was retractable, and that was its condition during this accident, then that would change your stability condition a great deal and would probably bring the pendulum effect of the mast into play.

“It doesn’t change what should be standard responses to bad weather at anchor, such as tracking forecasts, keeping a good visual look out and then when it happens, checking the upper deck for watertight integrity/security, starting your engine, taking the weight off the anchor and so on. It just makes them even more important.”

Prosecutors in the nearby town of Termini Imerese have opened an investigation into the disaster and will seek to establish what caused the boat to sink and if any of the crew are criminally liable.

Another early focus of the investigation, which is expected to last months, is likely to be whether the yacht’s crew had failed to close access hatches into the vessel before it was hit by a tornado above the sea, known as a waterspout, off the coast of Sicily .

Survivor interviews

Ambrogio Cartosio, the chief prosecutor of Termini Imerese, and assistant prosecutors must determine what went wrong and whether the sinking of the Bayesian was down to human error or simply a freak weather event.

He and his team have already started interviewing the 15 survivors  as well as gathering evidence from emergency workers and divers from the coast guard and the national fire service.

The UK’s Marine Accident Investigation Branch, which has sent investigators to the scene, is also expected to support the prosecutor’s inquiries.

The Italian Sea Group, which owns Perini Navi, the company that built the Bayesian yacht, said that even without the retractable keel the vessel would still be stable.

A spokesman said: “The yacht was built in 2008 by the Perini shipyards of Viareggio and the last refit was in 2020.

“The controversies about the mast are sterile controversies because the mast, according to those who have seen it, is intact.

“The retractable keel stabilizes the ship, but even without the keel completely out the ship is stable and only a massive entry of water could have caused the sinking which did not happen in a minute as someone wrote.”

Bodies recovered

Teams of specialist divers, including some who took part in the Costa Concordia recovery , spent most of Wednesday searching for the six missing passengers who had gathered on the boat to celebrate Mr Lynch’s acquittal in a fraud trial .

The teams broke through a 3cm pane of glass on the side of the yacht yesterday and entered the hull, using special jacks produced by a locksmith in Porticello.

Divers had been frustrated by a 12-minute time limit required when working at a depth of 48 metres and had spoken about the challenges of dealing with narrow corridors and floating debris obstructing their way. They used remotely operated vehicles to help them in the search.

Eventually, two bodies were recovered from the wreckage on Wednesday – believed to be those of Mike Lynch and his teenage daughter, Hannah.

Three other bodies were then found, but only two were recovered and brought to shore, Salvatore Cocina, the head of Sicily’s civil protection agency, confirmed. One person remains missing.

As the body bags were taken back to the port of Porticello, dozens of emergency services staff were waiting and one was seen being put in the back of an ambulance.

The Italian coast guard previously did not rule out the possibility that those missing may still be alive, with experts speculating air pockets could have formed as the yacht sank.

Also missing are Jonathan Bloomer, the Morgan Stanley International bank chairman, and his wife Judy Bloomer, as well as Chris Morvillo, a Clifford Chance lawyer, and his wife Neda Morvillo.

The Bayesian was moored about half a mile off the coast of Porticello when it sank at about 5am local time on Monday as the area was hit by a storm.

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