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Anchor Light Requirements
USCG anchor light requirements for inland waterways.
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The Inland Rules have specific requirements as to anchor lights. That rule is quoted below, as is the USCG site reference.
A 360-degree white all-around masthead light with two-mile visibility normally fulfills this requirement for most pleasure boats, but familiarize yourself with and follow the rule. Wire gauge, length of wiring, connections and battery condition can affect a light's performance. Follow manufacturer's instructions to ensure compliance with U.S. Coast Guard regulations. If you have one of the newer LED anchor lights, it may not be as bright as earlier lights. Be sure that the manufacturer specifies in writing that it meets USCG requirement.
Displaying a proper anchor light when anchored at night isn't merely a matter of law. It's a matter of safety for you and others. Even if the boat is in a known or designated anchorage area, dinghies and other boats may be traveling in that area and will need to know the location of your boat. People have been severely injured and killed because a skipper decided that he'd not burn an anchor light.
Following is Rule 30 of the Rules found here .
Rule 30 - Anchored Vessels and Vessels Aground
(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:
(i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball;
(ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light.
(b) A vessel of less than 50 meters in length may exhibit an all-round white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule.
(c) A vessel at anchor may , and a vessel of 100 meters and more in length shall, also use the available working or equivalent lights to illuminate her decks.
(d) A vessel aground shall exhibit the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) or (b) of this Rule and in addition, if practicable, [Inld] where they can best be seen;
(i) two all-round red lights in a vertical line;
(ii) three balls in a vertical line.
(e) A vessel of less than 7 meters in length, when at anchor not in or near a narrow channel, fairway or where other vessels normally navigate, shall not be required to exhibit the shape prescribed in paragraphs (a) and (b) of this Rule.
(f) A vessel of less than 12 meters in length, when aground, shall not be required to exhibit the lights or shapes prescribed in subparagraphs (d)(i) and (ii) of this Rule.
(g) A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a special anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be required to exhibit the anchor lights and shapes required by this Rule. [Inld]
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Yachting Monthly
- Digital edition
![anchor light sailboat Yachting Monthly cover](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2024/06/YAM303.cover_-144x200.jpg)
Tried and tested: Anchor lights & where they should be fitted
- Duncan Kent
- April 26, 2020
Still relying on an old hurricane lamp at anchor? Duncan Kent tests the latest electric anchor lights
![anchor light sailboat Anchor lights](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/LRSIMON-HAS-TWEAKED-POSSIBLE-LEAD_140603_211656_0919.jpg)
We range-tested the lights from a yacht moored off Calshot in Southampton Water Credit: Colin Work
Anchor lights have changed rapidly over the past few years, partly due to the shift from incandescent filament bulbs to LEDs.
In addition to navigation lights, another area important to all cruising sailors is visibility when anchored.
Some skippers just hoist an old oil-powered hurricane lamp up a halyard, others deploy converted solar garden lamps, but if you really want to avoid being hit in the early hours by a latecomer to the anchorage it’s surely best to ensure your anchor light is clearly visible from a good distance.
Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs)
Nowadays, the problem of high current drain from your boat’s lights should be in the past.
Modern LED ‘bulbs’ are rapidly overtaking the old, inefficient filament-type bulbs, proving to be equally bright – brighter in many cases – and with a fraction of their power demands.
Being nearly 10 times as power-efficient as standard filament bulbs, as well as considerably more resistant to vibration and impact, they appear to be the ideal solution for all sailing boat lights.
They can be left on without the worry of flattening the ship’s batteries, but also the wiring required to power them can be reduced in size, minimising weight aloft where masthead and steaming lights are situated.
Wiring them up
LEDs are wired in a similar way to filament units. Although they are polarity sensitive, most can be wired up either way and they will still work, thanks to integral diode correction circuitry.
At worst, they simply won’t light if you reverse positive and negative, until you swap the wires over.
It is worth mentioning at this point that if you intend to keep the same wiring and just change the lamp or bulb to a lower power LED type, the circuit protection fuse or breaker must remain the same value as it is there to protect the wiring, not the device.
Reliability and lifespan
Almost as important as low power consumption is reliability.
When a masthead bulb blows, someone has to change it – something few sailors are inclined to do at sea.
Being less vulnerable to the typical jarring the masthead is likely to experience in rough sea states, LEDs are far less likely to blow during a bumpy passage.
In fact, most of the top quality units are quoted as having a 50,000-hour lifespan! F
or this reason it’s not surprising they are currently quite a bit more expensive than the incandescent bulb types, but this is likely to change once LED navlights become the norm.
Changing bulbs to LEDs
Many boat owners have converted their incandescent navigation lights to LED by simply swapping existing filament-type bulbs with the equivalent LED clusters.
Early LEDs were not very powerful and therefore not necessarily visible over the legally required range.
Nowadays, however, with the integration of miniature voltage regulators, most decent-quality LED clusters can accept any voltage between 10v and 30v DC, whilst retaining full brightness, regardless of the battery condition or voltage fluctuation.
Top quality LED clusters are encapsulated in resin to prevent water ingress.
Though more expensive, it makes sense to fit this sort, particularly to a masthead-mounted unit, to avoid the climb to replace it.
Despite the longevity of LEDs, bulb replacement clusters suffer the same problems with dirty or corroded contacts as filament bulbs, so it’s a good idea to grease up their contacts with silicone grease before installing them.
How we tested the anchor lights
![anchor light sailboat A man hanging a light in the fore triangle of a yacht](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/LR140603_214038_1019_M.jpg)
We hung the anchor lights in the fore triangle, but tested them individually
In this test we took a selection of typical modern anchor lights – a mix of masthead mounting and hoistable types – and tested their visibility from a mile away to see if the new LED types were genuinely as easy to see from a distance as the traditional filament bulb models.
Taking all the anchor lights out on the editor’s boat late one June evening, we picked up a buoy in Calshot Bay and hung the lights in the foretriangle of the yacht, around 2.5m above deck level.
At first we tried lighting five of them at once, to see if we could compare them together, but 150m away the light started to merge into one bright blob, so we reverted to testing each one individually.
![anchor light sailboat Testing current of a light using an ammeter](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/LRCurrent-draw-testing_M.jpg)
Testing the current draw of each light using an ammeter
I set off across Southampton Water in our RIB, having set the boat as a mark on my GPS, so that I knew when I was exactly one nautical mile from the yacht.
Then, communicating via VHF radio, we lit each light and judged by eye as to how bright, white and clear to see they were – scoring them out of 10.
We did consider using a spot-beam analyser, but in the end the human eye is by far the most accurate detector of distant lights and, after all, that’s exactly what would happen in real life.
Later, back on land, we powered them up again to check their actual current consumption using an ammeter.
Where should an anchor light be fitted?
![anchor light sailboat A man hanging up an anchor light](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/LR140603_221226_1054_M.jpg)
On the boom end, masthead or hung in the foretriangle? Colregs say you shouldn’t show more than one
Every time I go off for a week, or even a long weekend, I spend as much time as possible at anchor.
There’s something about being in charge of your own destiny that culminates in a night at anchor.
After a good day’s sail I often end up entering an anchorage after dark, picking my way through a forest of unlit masts and almost imperceptible hull silhouettes.
Most boats are poorly lit – if at all – and the few that are lit have an all-round white light at the top of their mast, which boatbuilders these days like to call an anchor light.
The masthead anchor light came about to make life easy for builders.
Wires have to go up to mast for a tricolour ( de rigueur for today’s small to medium-size cruisers), so why not take one more up for an all-round white ‘anchor’ light?
In the Colregs, Rule 30(b) simply states that for a vessel under 50m LOA ‘an all-round white light should be placed where best seen’.
Continues below…
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The biggest storm should be water off a duck’s back in these rugged offshore waterproofs. The YM team put six…
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Yachting Monthly experts share the problems they have most often faced when anchoring, and how they troubleshoot their way out
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Traditionally, this always meant hanging it in the foretriangle. An anchor light at the masthead was never a consideration until a couple of decades ago.
Anyway, the purpose of the anchor light is not to satisfy regulations, but to enable your vessel to be seen by others so that they can take avoiding action.
Being keen to light up my rig or decks to an incoming vessel, rather than show a light 40ft up my mast where it often gets lost in amongst the jumble of shore lights surrounding many anchorages, I often hang mine from the stern end of the boom, raising it to ensure it is visible above the sprayhood.
This also serves as a useful cockpit light when eating al fresco on warm summer evenings.
However, there is a point to the old custom of hanging it in the foretriangle: it gives some indication of where your anchor cable is laid out, so that others can avoid snagging it when they drop their own hook.
This is particularly useful in crowded anchorages, where swinging room can be tight.
Anchor lights tested
Boatlamp portable anchor light .
![anchor light sailboat Boatlamp portable anchor light](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/BoatlampPortableAnchorLight.jpg)
A hoisting ring would have been useful
Most portable anchor/cockpit lights plug into a 12V socket, but this one comes with a choice of LED clusters and has an automatic dawn-to-dusk switch to save power when the sun is up but you’re not.
![anchor light sailboat Boatlamp portable anchor light](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/BoatlampPortableAnchorLight2.jpg)
Boatlamp Portable Anchor Light
Both the standard 1.3W (6-LED) and the more power-hungry 3W, 15-LED version worked very well, and even the 1.3W model could be seen clearly from 1nm.
Current draw: 1.3W/46mA; 3W/115mA
Range: 1nm/2nm
Brightness: 5/10; 6/10
Price: From £27.50
Buy it now from eBay (UK)
Buy it now from eBay (US)
Hella Compact NaviLED 360 – Best on test
![anchor light sailboat Hella Compact NaviLED 360](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/HellaNaviLEDCompact360.jpg)
The unit has a five-year warranty
This light is fully sealed and has a heavy-duty, polyamide lens and UV-resistant, high-impact nylon housing designed to provide outstanding resistance to vibration and impact.
It is waterproof to IP67. Its 90mm diameter, round base can be black or white with three holes for mounting flat.
![anchor light sailboat Hella Compact NaviLED 360](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/HellaNaviLEDCompact3602.jpg)
Hella Compact NaviLED 360
Prewired with a 1.3m cable, it operates over a wide voltage range, using electronics to ensure consistent brightness.
Its five-year warranty won’t cover faulty LEDs.
Current draw: 110mA
Brightness: 7/10
Price: From £101.70
Buy it now at Amazon (US)
Buy it now at eBay (UK)
Buy it now at eBay (US)
Hella NaviLED 360 pole-mount
![anchor light sailboat Hella NaviLED 360 pole-mount](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/HellaNaviLED360PoleMount.jpg)
Power draw matched the Compact version
Almost identical to the Compact with the same 1.3m lead, only it comes on a short (155mm high) aluminium pole with a two-hole, screw-down plastic base mount.
![anchor light sailboat Hella NaviLED 360 pole-mount](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/HellaNaviLED360PoleMount2.jpg)
Hella NaviLED 360 pole-mount
The info and packaging claims a mere 1W consumption, but it drew exactly the same current as the 2W Compact and appeared to be equally as bright, so my guess is they are the same light just on a different mounting.
Price: From £125.80
Buy it now at Amazon (UK)
![anchor light sailboat Lopolight](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/Lopolight.jpg)
Mounts as an anchor light or a steaming light
The virtually bombproof Lopolight’s sophisticated circuitry regulates its output over time.
LEDs dim with age so a monitor counts ‘on’ hours and gradually increases current to compensate.
The Lopolight operates from 10-32v DC and power spikes are absorbed.
It uses top spec, 3mm LEDs in a UV-stable acrylic lens within a rugged, anodised aluminium housing. Electronics are sealed in epoxy.
![anchor light sailboat Anchor lights](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/Lopolight2.jpg)
Designed to masthead mount with a 750mm cable, it can be wired as a 360deg, a 225deg (steaming) light or both.
Current draw: 202mA
From: £443.02
NASA Supernova – Best value for money
![anchor light sailboat Anchor lights](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/NASASupernova.jpg)
A membrane equalises pressure on the seals
NASA Marine was one of the first to produce LED navlights, including the Supernova 2nm all-round white anchor light.
It has 32 high-efficiency LEDs to ensure minimal power consumption, which are encased in a tough, waterproof polycarbonate shell.
![anchor light sailboat Anchor lights](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/NASASupernova2.jpg)
NASA Supernova
Each comes with a black-painted steel bracket that is designed to be bent to conform to the correct shape for your boat, which supports a simple clamp that tightens around the short pole supplied with the light.
A 250mm cable enters the unit via a clamp-sealed grommet.
Current draw: 189mA
Brightness: 6/10
Price: From £60.00
Navi Light 360
![anchor light sailboat Navi Light 360](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/Navilight360.jpg)
Our ‘most useful to have around’ winner
It’s AAA battery-powered, waterproof and floats light-side up. While not designed as a permanent anchor light, it’s a useful emergency all-round light, easy to use and well made.
A magnetic back and detachable panel allows it to be used in many ways, including on the head strap provided.
![anchor light sailboat Navi Light 360 Anchor light](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/Navilight3602.jpg)
Navi Light 360
Its 16 powerful LEDs can be seen clearly from two miles as a steaming or stern light, or flashing.
We used it as a navlight on the RIB, and it was clearly seen a mile away – even in economy mode with four LEDs lit.
Duration: Full 15hrs; 4-LED 72hrs
Price: From £59.99
Buy it now from Amazon (UK)
Buy it now from Amazon (US)
Aqua Signal Series 40
![anchor light sailboat Aqua Signal Series 40](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/AquaSignalSeries40.jpg)
A more traditional lamp for filament or LED bulbs
A larger lamp than the other units we tested, Aqua Signal’s Series 40 can be bought as either a masthead mount or a hoistable lamp.
It is supplied with a 10W incandescent bulb as standard, but easily took our bayonet fitting Searolf 30-LED cluster as a simple, direct replacement.
![anchor light sailboat Aqua Signal Series 40](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/20/2015/10/AquaSignalSeries402.jpg)
Aqua Signal Series 40
The lamp is robustly made and looks pretty tough, although it doesn’t claim to be completely waterproof.
Current draw: 1.4A
Price: From £82.95
Web: www.marathonleisure.com
Anchor Lights: the results
Every piece of kit Yachting Monthly tests is thoroughly examined against three key criteria
Performance: How well can they be seen over a distance of 1nm? Did they shine with a white or coloured light?
Power efficiency: How much power do they consume? Can you leave them on all night without flattening the batteries?
Value for money: Does the product’s performance justify its price-tag for the average cruising sailor?
All the anchor lights we tested were guaranteed to be visible from at least 2nm – the standard for a yacht up to 20m LOA.
With traditional filament lamps this roughly equates to a 10W filament bulb or a 3W LED cluster.
It’s not necessary to have a really bright light that can be seen for several miles – in fact it can often be misleading for vessels further offshore.
It’s really only when entering an anchorage that you’re interested to see where other boats are.
At no more than 200m a really bright light can be quite distracting to a newcomer to the anchorage on a dark night.
For this reason visibility up to one mile was all we sought.
It would be short-sighted not to choose an LED light for anchor duty, given their meagre power needs.
However, they are generally quite a bit more expensive than standard filament lamps, especially the sealed types.
* Yachting Monthly is not paid by manufacturers for our recommendations. If you click through and buy an item, we may receive a small amount of money from the retailer, at no cost to you. *
Enjoyed reading tried and tested: anchor lights & where they should be fitted.
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Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)
![anchor light sailboat Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them) | Life of Sailing](https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/5ce44e4e8d1c1fc85b84c18d/61576dd78aa00e3f3c7d46af_navigation-lights-for-sailboats-thumbnail.jpeg)
Last Updated by
Capt Chris German
June 15, 2022
Navigation lights on a sailboat can be confusing. If you understand the reason behind why they are the way they are however, they can make a lot more sense.
At their heart, sailboats are really just a power boat and as such must adhere to all power boat rules such as navigation lights. Other times however, a sailboat is classified in a special category. They have a set of additional lights they CAN show as an option, but are not always required to do so.
That’s about as clear as mud if you ask me and I contend that that is where the confusion about lighting a sailboat begins.
Just because you can show a light to identify yourself in times of low visibility, does not mean you have to and then we add in a little sibling rivalry between power and sail and things get downright adversarial when it comes to navigation and the night.
Table of contents
The USCG says You’re a Power Boat Whether You Like It or Not
Much to the consternation of many a sailor who has earned a commercial license to drive their sailboat, when you received your credential from the USCG it says you are a master of steam and power across the top with no mention of wind as a source of propulsion.
It is not until you read the back pages of your little red book that feels like a passport and looks like a US Sailing credential, that you will see the term “sail auxiliary”. That is because most of the time the U.S. Coast Guard knows that you are primarily reliant on your mechanical power to propel your vessel.
It's a sad thing, but the days of commercially viable sail boats are done and all but the most select few even have sails let alone use them as their primary power source. All sail boats by law are powerboats, but not all powerboats are sailboats.
Navigation Lights for a Power Boat
As a power boat, you are required to show certain lights and have been required to do so before power was even invented.
In the days of man powered vessels like the viking ships who relied on oars while in close quarters to power their vessels, they needed to show other boats, friend or foe, where they were by showing lanterns in the dark to identify themselves. As you know, it is a time honored rule among all the nations of the world both past and present, that you must avoid a collision at all costs while at sea and even the viking knew that you should not run into things.
By lighting the front and back of your boat, you could warn other boats of your presence as well as identify which way you were heading. As such there is a very specific rule in the Code of Federal Regulations Number 46 (CFR46 by common name) that spells out with detail how many, the color, the luminosity or brightness, the angle of visibility and the location of all of the lights required for navigation on every single boat, seaplane, submarine and other nondescript vessel conceived by man to date that they must show while underway in reduced visibility.
And there is no flexibility in the rules.
As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam and the stern lights shining 225 degrees dead aft. A forward facing masthead light that is white in color shall shine forward to comply with the directive that all vessels must carry an all around white light. For more read here .
As you can see, there isn’t much wiggle room when it comes to lights that must be shown.
Sailboats get a little flexibility with lights
Sailboats however, are a little different when they are in fact sailboats, which is only when you are entirely reliant on the wind for power and in no way reliant on any mechanical or manual means of propulsion. And for good reason.
Back in the day when men were men and sailboats were wooden, fire was a major concern. Sails were coated with wax and other flammable substances and the wood on boats was saturated with oils and grease. Even the ropes were plant materials saturated with oils to keep them pliable and strong.
Add those highly flammable substances to a parching environment like the sea and you had what was essentially a giant floating tinderbox.
Then tell that giant floating tinderbox that they need to identify themselves to the world at large at night using oil lamps with flames because batteries and lights were not invented yet. It didn't take very long or very many ships burning to the water line for the Governments to say to the sailboats, you get to do things a little different.
As such, sailboats are given special dispensation when it comes to lights aloft. They don't have to show an all around white light in their rigging because no one wanted to set their rig on fire with oil lamps 60 feet up in their rig.
However, when a sailboat takes their sails down such as when they are powered or at anchor, they must resume the display of an all around white light or lights aloft. That became a real challenge with aluminum masts and the disappearance of rat lines on the shrouds because there was no easy way to climb the rig and check the bulbs up the mast on a regular basis.
Red over Green Sailing Machine
I have no idea where the history of this particular light comes from, but if you ever take a deck exam with the USCG, you better remember this mnemonic. An all around red light over an all around green may be displayed on a vessel during times of reduced visibility to indicate that a vessel is operating under sail power alone.
I won’t even speculate on how or why they came up with this particular light configuration, but if you want to use these lights as a sailing vessel, you can do so, but that means that you will need three all round lights at the top of your mast, an all around white, an all around red and an all around green, just in that order.
The red over green is to be displayed in addition to the running lights or the red and green bow lights with the 225 degree stern light. As always, when the motor comes on, so does the steaming light or the forward facing white light that is also usually about ¾ of the way up on your mast to complete the requirement of an all around white light that indicates a power vessel.
What is a “steaming light” and why are you mentioning it now?
Most sailboat electrical panels will have a switch that is labelled “steaming light” and it will only come on when your anchor light is off. This is probably the most confusing part of sailboat navigation lights so if you are confused about this, you're in good company as most people are.
A “steaming” light is named thusly, going back to the days of steam powered sailboats where when they fired up their boilers and doused the sails, they became a power boat once again. There aren’t too many steam powered boats, let alone steam powered sailboats, but the name stuck and it is a vestige of a bygone era.
Either way, when you fire up your motor, you turn on your “steaming light” and that locks out the all around white light which is used for anchoring to minimize the number of switches on your panel and reduce the number of wires in your mast. The fewer wires, the less chance of something not working or becoming disconnected.
The steaming light and the anchor light both go up the mast, but you can’t use an all around white light while using the 225 degree stern light at the deck level because to other boaters you would look like you have two white lights from the stern and that would be confusing.
The anchor light is used exclusively for anchoring while the steaming light is used to indicate you are a power vessel while underway.
As to why I am mentioning it now in the article, is because this would have blown your mind if I started with this subject cause it can be really confusing stuff.
Aspect Recognition with Lights
Remember when I said earlier that lights can help you tell others which way you are heading as well as tell you which way other boats are heading? That is called the aspect of the vessel and the USCG tests you on this for your deck exam as well.
Knowing that the bow lights go 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on both sides or 112.5 degrees on each side, and the stern light faces 225 degrees aft for a total of 360 degrees of visibility, you can tell a lot about where a boat is heading and who has the right of way.
One thing that's easy to remember is red means stop and if you see a vessel's red light, it means stop as you are the give way vessel and approaching the other vessel from his port side. Conversely it works with green as well as that means you are approaching from the other vessel's starboard side and you are the standon vessel.
If you see a red and green light equally low on the horizon, that means your heading dead on into another vessel's path and conversely if all you see is a white light low on the horizon, it means you are overtaking another vessel power or sail, we don’t care because it is an overtaking situation. However, any time you do see a white light aloft in addition to the red and green bow lights, you know you are encountering a power boat.
Then there are angular approaches as well, where you see white and red or white and green light low on the horizon. You know in that case you are seeing a portion of the bow lights and stern lights from the side approaches of a vessel. Based on which direction those lights are heading, you can deduce which way that boat is going in relation to your boat.
So put it all together and you see a green light and a white light low on the horizon with a red over green light aloft, you know that you are approaching a sailboat that is traveling to your port and that might make you the standon vessel. That is of course, if we didn’t concern ourselves with windward and leeward and port tacks and starboard tacks, but that is a discussion for another article. So stay tuned when we talk about sailing rules and the right of way. But for now, do good, have fun and sail far.
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Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.
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Extra Anchor Lighting
Masthead anchor lights often aren’t enough in crowded anchorages..
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When summer comes, a dozen or more sparkling white lights will adorn every popular anchorage. Visible from miles away, they promise to provide good warning to approaching boats that something is anchored there. In practice, they have manifold shortcomings. They all look alike, distance is impossible to gauge, and they can be difficult to distinguish from stars and shore lights. Fast-moving dinghies and runabouts often overlook them, since they are far above the driver’s sight line.
The basic rules for anchor lights were written in 1846-1850. The United Kingdom led with the Steam Navigation Act of 1846, and the US followed soon after. Electric lamps had not been invented, confusion with background lights was a minor concern, and a single lantern was considered enough. But is it now?
COLREGS states in Rule 5 (long before we get to the description of lights in Rule 30) that we must maintain a watch. There is no exemption for smaller vessels or while at anchor. Since this is impractical for the cruising sailor, and because nighttime harbor collisions are unfortunately common, taking additional steps in the form of supplemental lighting seems prudent.
OBSERVATIONS
When entering a harbor or any area that might have anchored boats, watch out for a relatively bright star that is moving in relation to the others. That’s a mast light indicating a boat. And if you are approaching that boat, the motion will be even less obvious. Once you learn how difficult this can be on a moonless night, you will understand our call for supplemental lighting.
Our opinion is that anchoring in an active harbor requires lighting both high and low. A masthead anchor light can be lost in the cloud of anchor lights and stars. An anchor light placed lower can be lost against the background of street lights and porch lights. So while the lower light could be a second anchor light product—COLREGS 30 (a) says it can be—an area light may better serve the purpose by illuminating the deck and super structure. COLREGS 30 (b) says you may display additional work lights, and we think you should.
A powerful spreader-mounted deck light may be too much, disturbing your neighbors. In principle they are focused downward, but some light up the whole harbor.
Cabin lights generally impart a glow to the whole boat, making the outline clear, but you can’t sleep with them on. Allowing for tinting and curtains, they are generally visible for only ¼- to ½-mile, depending on intensity. Cockpit lights draw mosquitoes to the companionway; if you leave cabin lights or the cockpit light on and go to shore for dinner, you may return to a cabin full of the pests. Put the screens in before you leave. Sometimes we set a light on the pulpit to draw them away from the companionway. Don’t forget radio interference. LEDs require current regulation, which is most often accomplished by a combination of resistors and rapid switching of the power using transistors. If the voltage drop is sufficient, this will cause radio frequency interference. Most interference is contained within the boat’s own power system, where it interferes with your radio and instruments, but it can also radiate a short distance.
Lights that show an FCC or USCG approval have been tested for radio frequency interference (RFI). In our testing, the RFI of low-voltage solar lights, which lack the approval of either agency, are too low to be a problem. At a minimum, scan that full range of VHF frequencies after installing any new lighting.
No flashing or strobe lights, please. This is reserved for signaling distress and can annoy your neighbors.
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SOLAR PATHWAY LIGHTS
Designed for lighting footpaths ashore, these cheap lights intrigued us. Most solar pathway lights claim 8-hour run time, but all the ones we have used go dim after 4-6 hours and wink out well before first light. The solar panels are really tiny. Although they require only a few watt-hours to recharge the battery, they need at least 4-6 hours of full sun for best results.
Units we tested in broken shade usually fully recharged, but those in deep shade often winked out hours earlier. Likewise, overcast and rainy days can slightly reduce run time.
Swapping the factory NiCads (0.600 Ah) for lithium rechargeables (2.3 Ah) seemed like a good idea. Fully charged, they kept the lights on for two nights, but then failed to recharge because they require a higher charging voltage than the factory NiCads, more than the solar panel puts out. Also note that not all lithium batteries are rechargeable, and not all lithium rechargeables are 1.5V (some are 3.2V).
Don’t overdo it. Decorative lighting and strips can obscure your functional navigations lights. Observe your boat from all directions with all the lights on. Are the basic navigation lights clearly visible and the course of the boat obvious? Any supplemental or decorative lights that could interfere with clear recognition of your functional navigation lights must be turned off when underway.
Boats on moorings. For moored boats, we’d install enough built-in solar panels to run a conventional masthead anchor light through the main battery system.
Although there are photocell systems that will turn lights off during the day, a low-draw LED anchor light draws little more than the sensing circuit, so you can just leave it on. We don’t fully trust the durability of any of the solar pathway lights, so we would install one additional anchor light down low, with a separate switch.
For anchoring while aboard, or for a short hiatus away from the boat, a few of the Hampton Bay Silver Pathway Lights should make your boat easy to find and will make it more visible.
Technically, anchor lights are not required for boats under 23 feet (7 meters) in length, but to leave your boat unlit at anchor or mooring is risking trouble. Light your boat, even if it’s just a dinghy.
SUPPLEMENTAL LIGHTS
There are literally hundreds of possibilities, so we’ll discuss only a few, highlighting what we do and do not like (see also PS May, 2011 “ Portable LED Rail Lights ” )
MANTUS SNAP ON LIGHT
Initially, we thought this was a bit pricey for a battery-powered light, but over time we realized it filled the roles of several products, a good thing on a smaller boat.
On the high setting, it is as bright as most cockpit lights and will run for 16 hours. Switched to either low or red, it spreads an even light that does not compromise night vision, perfect for reading charts or tidying up underway. Clamped to a high railing, it meets the candela basis of a USCG anchor light; we’ve confirmed this on the water. It makes our F-24 easier to find when return from a mid-night kayak trip.
It makes a good non-glaring bilge worklight; we’ve dropped it in the water enough times to confirm that it’s waterproof. Clamped to the pulpit it makes a bow worklight, though we would use a head lamp for most night deckwork. It even has an SOS flasher setting. Although it does not meet the standard for an eVDSD (Electronic Visual Distress Signal), it will supplement other signaling means (see PS June 2021, “ Distress Flares Go Electric ”).
Finally, it is rechargeable by USB, and now that most of us have a port somewhere on the boat, it will always be charged without lugging around another charger.
Bottom line: Recommended as a small boat supplemental and a non- USCG emergency anchor light.
HAMPTON BAY PATHWAY LIGHTS
Most pathway lights direct the light downwards, toward your feet, with little escaping to the sides. They light up the cockpit a bit, but you can’t see them from a distance. Hampton Bay Silver Pathways lights, on the other hand, direct the light horizontally, perfect for viewing from a distance.
Though not as well focused as an anchor light, the mere 15 lumens output was clearly visible at 1-mile and very nearly meets the 2-mile anchor light visibility standard. The low profile allows them to be slapped on any flat surface with self-adhesive Velcro. We love the price, but unfortunately they only run 4-6 hours, meaning they will protect you from late arrivals and wee hour drunks, but will not stay lit until first light.
Bottom line: This is our Budget Buy for supplemental lighting. Do not expect the light to be on at 2 or 3 a.m. in the morning.
EMERGENCY ANCHOR LIGHTS
Our search for temporary lights took us into the realm of temporary lights designed specifically for anchoring, and claiming to meet one or more marine specification.
DAVIS INSTRUMENTS MEGA LIGHT
Many small boat sailors use this as their primary anchor light, hanging it in the rigging. It is has a 15-foot cord.
The Mega-Light is still available with the original incandescent bulb (0.3 amps), and with that lamp installed, performs the same as it did in prior testing. We measured the bright beam width at +/- 8 degrees, and long distance visibility seemed enough to meet the standard.
However, on the newer LED lights, with a factory-installed LED bulb, the center of the bright beam is about 30 degrees above the horizon if mounted with the base down (and 30 degrees below the horizon if suspended from the base). In the areas outside this narrow bright band of light (within +/- 5 degrees of the horizon), the light is less than 10 percent of the required brightness. Although quite bright, the LED emits upwards instead of radially like the incandescent lamp does.
The LED also sits about 1/4-inch lower in the housing. When tilted 30 degrees, the lamp aligns with the fresnel lens and becomes much brighter. In practice this means that if it is suspended as suggested by the maker, the light is really only visible within 50-100 feet of the boat, with most of the beam being directed skyward.
Our experience offers an important lesson for DIY sailors looking to save some amps by swapping to a different bulb than the one specified. Navigation lights are only approved with the specific lamp that was used for approval testing—no changes allowed.
Another thing that bothers us is the cigarette lighter plug, but it’s not Davis Instrument’s fault that we have such an impractical industry standard. We’re hoping the boating industry moves to a better standard, perhaps the DIN 4165 Powerlet- style (see PS August 2021, “Watertight Connectors”).
Bottom line: The non-LED version is Recommended, but the LED version has a limited beam angle that restricts visibility. There are better low-draw options for deck level lighting.
TECNIQ TOWER LIGHT
Although intended for permanent installation, this USCG-compliant light is tiny, dirt cheap, and could easily be adapted to a rail clamp or other temporary mounting. The diameter is a perfect match for 2-inch PVC pipe, something we learned when installing one on the mast of our F-24. Because it is so low profile, we needed a short vertical extension to clear the wind instrument housing, a short stub of pipe boosted it just enough and gave us a place to hide the splices. Very low power draw and low price make it an outstanding choice for secondary low level anchor light for a boat kept at a mooring.
Bottom Line: Recommended for permanent installation or to make a custom plug-in.
ESAFETY S6LS SOLAR MARINE LANTERN
An improved version of the solar pathway lights, the S6LS has enough battery capacity to last 60 hours, getting you through a stretch of cloudy days. A local marina installed these on the outlying pilings several years ago, and we can see them at 2-miles, just about the same time the USCG fixed lights marking the harbor entrance come into the clear view.
Esafety also makes a slightly version (S8LS, 2-mile vis, 72-hour life, $85), suitable for a boat on a mooring. Too bad neither is USCG approved as an anchor light.
Bottom Line: Recommended for supplemental lighting and as an anchor light for moored boats that lack adequate battery power.
LANAKO SOLAR POSITIONING LIGHT
The solar power has clear advantages for boats that live on a mooring. In addition to the all-around white light, it also can serve as a tricolor light, and an SOS strobe. A wireless remote control determines which mode it will show. The strobe does meet the USCG carriage requirement for a visual distress signal. It has a convenient rail clamp.
Bottom Line: Recommended for moored boats that lack battery power.
HOW BRIGHT?
Supplemental lights don’t need to meet a specific standard, but if you are shopping around it helps to understand the output claims—usually expressed in lumens and candela.
A lumen is a measure of total light output in all directions, without focusing. Candela is the intensity of the light within the focused beam, which can be anything from a hemisphere in the case of an area light, down to a narrowly focused beam. If a light emits evenly in all directions it takes about 12.6 lumens of light emission to create 1 candela of intensity. An anchor light, on the other hand, with a beam focused into 6 degrees vertically and 360 degrees horizontally, can produce as much as 2 candela per lumen if the optics are just right, although the actual output is typically closer to 1 candela per lumen.
The 2-mile visibility requirement requires 4.3 candela. An unfocused area light will require 25-50 lumens to meet this standard. Garden lights are typically focused downwards, so the typical 10-lumen light will be visible for less than a mile. With less than perfectly adjusted night vision, PS testing suggests a few hundred yards is more realistic.
We performed additional visibility evaluation of the Mantus Snap-On Light and Hampton Bay Silver Pathway lights, photographing at distances up to 1-mile, calculating intensity, and measuring run time.
In the June 2021 article on electronic visual distress signalling devices, we reviewed the USCG standard. Four handheld products met the standard. None of the devices in this review meet this requirement. A flashing masthead light is not bright enough and does not have independent power supply that the eVSD
If you are considering an unfocused area light to serve as supplementary or backup anchor light, it should have an output of >50 lumens to approximate the visibility required for anchor lights. Be aware that any blocking or partial interference from cabin top structures will decrease visibility significantly.
SOS beacons, intended to be seen from many miles, require a very bright area light, approaching that of a flare. They are expected to be visible at 5 miles and clearly noticeable at a few miles. A blinking anchor light is not bright enough to meet the visual distress signaling standard and does not have its own power supply, which is required of a true eVSD.
WINCH MOUNT
The high point on our test boat’s superstructure is a cabin-top winch. We built a simple mount to keep a Hampton Bay Silver light level and secure from sliding off. We have a similar homemade winch mount we use for our camera.
The standard octagonal winch handle hole fits a 0.70-inch (17.8 mm) square about 1-inch long, and you can extend it as needed to clear low obstructions; we chose 2.5 inches as a compromise between visibility and stability. Teak is a good material; rot-proof, hard, and easy to work accurately.
The Hampton Bay Silver Pathway light was mounted to a 5-inch circle of ¾-inch wood with a counter sunk hole for the screw that secures it to the square winch adapter. (The camera mount uses the same size wood square, but is topped with the swivel portion of a cheap table-top tripod.) You can repurpose the socket of an old winch handle.
Alternatively, you can just place the light on the highest part of the cabin, secured by Velcro. We still recommend mounting the light to a disk of wood with screws, because this adds compression to the bottom plate and improves the weather sealing.
CONCLUSIONS
When we went ashore from our cruising cat, we’d leave the cockpit light on, and perhaps a few cabin lights. The cockpit light was not blocked by more than a few degrees in any direction and was quite visible, and the glow of cabin lights through the windows made the length and width of the boat obvious. If the anchorage was isolated, we’d turn off all but the anchor light at night, but if we expected late night traffic, we’d leave the cockpit light on for a bit of security. With our F-24, lacking an installed cockpit light or anything overhead to fasten it to, we clip a Mantus Snap-On Light to the stern rail. Both are about as bright as the anchor light, with the advantage of lighting up some portion of the deck as well.
What about emergency anchor lights? A plug-in light will do if the electrical system is still working, and generally it is. Turning on cockpit and cabin lights will work for a single night’s emergency. In the event of general electrical failure, a separate battery powered light also makes good sense. Locate it so that it is visible from all directions.
We’re not saying that supplemental lights are a substitute for a conventional USCG recognized anchor light. Not at all. You need that for compliance, because it is visible above shore lights, and because it is visible at a reliable distance. We’re saying that adding some light down low will make your boat easier to find and reduce the risk of things going bump in the night. Your fellow sailors will also appreciate the improved safety when navigating a crowded harbor at night.
VALUE GUIDE: SUPPLEMENTARY ANCHOR LIGHTS
BRAND | MANTUS | HAMPTON BAY | TECNIQ | ESAFETY LIGHTS | LONAKO | DAVIS |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
TYPE | Supplemental | Supplemental | Rechargeable Lithium | Emergency Anchor Light | Emergency Anchor Light | Emergency Anchor Light |
MODEL | Snap-On | LED Silver Pathway Lights | Tower Anchor Light | Beacon Light S6LS | LNK-PL-RGW | Mega Light Utility |
USCG APPROVED | No | No | Yes | No | No | No |
LUMENS | 7-140 | 15 | N/A | N/A | N/A | N/A |
HORIZONTAL BEAM | 1.5-28 cd | 3.5 cd | 4.5 cd | 8 cd | 5 cd | 5 cd |
VISIBILITY (MILES) | 1-3 | 2 | >2 | >2 | >2 | >2 |
VERTICAL ARC (OUT OF 90 DEGREES) | +90/-20 degrees | +30/-15 degrees | +6/-6 degrees | +10/-10 degrees | -12/+12 degrees | -12/+12 degrees |
RUN TIME (HOURS) | 16-156 hours | 6-8 | N/A | 60 hours | 10-12 | N/A |
CURRENT DRAW | N/A | 200 mA | 100 mA | N/A | N/A | 23 mA |
POWER SOURCE | Rechargeable via USB | Solar | Wired | Solar | Solar | Wired or cigarette plug |
DIMENSIONS (W X H) | 2.8" x 1.8" (plus clamp) | 4.8" x 0.9" | 2.5" x 1.2" | 6.5" x 6.1 | 4.5" x 2.8" | 1.9" x 2.6" |
PRICE (EACH) | $69 | $25 (4 pack) | $18 | $156 | $85 | $54 |
Know the rules to prevent collisions and to avoid liability lawsuits.
All sailors should be familiar with the International COLREGS rule 30, which details the uniform requirements for ship lights. Below are excerpts of the important specifications with some italicized comments from our testers.
(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:
(i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; and
(ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light.
(b) A vessel of less than 50 m in length may exhibit an allround white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule.
(c) A vessel at anchor may, and a vessel of 100 meters and more in length shall, also use the available working or equivalent lights to illuminate her decks.
Note that the anchor light does not have to be at the masthead, but rather where it can best be seen. The masthead is generally a good place, free of obstructions. The “where it can best be seen” requirement rules out very low locations, but there is no stipulation that it be placed high in the rigging or at the masthead, where it might be hard to see in a crowded anchorages. Note also that the placement and specifications for deck illumination lights is left open for the captain to decide.
Annex I provides additional detail that sailors are often less aware of:
9. Horizontal sector.
(b) (i) All-round lights shall be so located as not to be obscured by masts, topmasts or structures within angular sectors of more than 6°, except anchor lights prescribed in Rule 30, which need not be placed at an impractical height above the hull.
(ii) If it is impracticable to comply with paragraph
(i) of this section by exhibiting only one all-round light, two all-round lights shall be used suitably positioned or screened so that they appear, as far as practicable, as one light at a distance of one mile.
Practically speaking, this means that if a light is not mounted at the masthead, it must be above the cabin and canvas work, and it must be mounted about
10 times the mast diameter away from the mast to ensure that the mast will not excessively obscure the light. 10. Vertical sector.
(a) The vertical sectors of electric lights as fitted, with the exception of lights on sailing vessels underway, shall ensure that:
(i) at least the required minimum intensity is maintained at all angles from 5° above to 5° below the horizontal;
(ii) at least 60% of the required intensity is maintained from 7.5° above to 7.5° below the horizontal.
(b) In the case of sailing vessels underway the vertical sectors of electric lights as fitted shall ensure that:
(ii) at least 50% of the required minimum intensity is maintained from 25° above to 25° below the horizontal.
Because anchor lights are not used underway, they need not adhere to the sailboat beam angle requirement. Some lights we have tested met only the section (i) requirement of 5 degrees above and below the horizon, yet don’t indicate they are for powerboats only. These are hard to see when you get close to the boat, gradually dimming as you approach within 150-250 feet of the boat and under the focused band. Even sailboat lights with the broader beam angle dim when you get within a few boat lengths.
Additionally, this means that anchor lights that meet only part (a) vertical sector (5 degrees) must be mounted within a few degrees of plumb to avoid black-out zones. Even sailboat lights meeting part (b) appear dim when rigged out of plumb.
EMERGENCY LIGHTS
Cruise long enough and your anchor light will fail. The first night after the failure, anything that lights up the boat will help. Leave on the cockpit light, as well as deck lights and cabin lights, as needed to meet the intent of the rule (that the boat is visible from 2 miles away).
After that, a US Coast Guard approved anchor light is needed, as a matter of practicality and legality. In some areas local law enforcement target boats that lack a bright all-around light. If a boat collides with yours at night, attorneys could cite your inadequate lighting as an easy defense for their clients.
If you still have power, a plug-in emergency light will serve. The Davis Instruments Mega Light is probably the best known, or you can make your own from an inexpensive anchor light and a cord. Don’t string an emergency or supplemental light at an angle to get the required spacing from the mast. Don’t place it in an angled fishing rod holder. And no allowing it to swing free; it will appear to flash.
We’re not fans of cigarette plugs, which are not waterproof (see PS August 2021, “Waterproof Electrical Connectors”). Consider swapping the common cigarette plug for either an SAE 2-pin or DIN 4165 Powerlet-type plug.
To minimize maintenance, you can replace the masthead anchor light with a sealed LED unit. The bulb life is practically forever and corrosion is rarely a problem. Alternatively, you could find a new mounting location closer to the ground.
A dead battery or general electrical failure requires a portable unit, and low-draw LEDs and improvements in battery power have made these possible. The Mantus Snap-on Light is bright enough to meet the USCG requirements, and testers have used the Hampton Bay light on the transom of our kayak as a nighttime running light; it is bright, all around, flat for easy mounting with Velcro, and on the transom is out of the paddlers line-of-sight.
Many of the early solar powered garden lights converted for marine use with the addition of a plastic rail clamp turned out to be duds after a single season (see PS May 2011, “ Portable LED Lights ”). As prices for LEDs have dropped precipitously and the market for robust weatherproof garden lights has exploded, we’re seeing some terrestrial products that seem perfectly suited for use at sea.
Nevertheless, quality is highly variable in this category. This report looks at only a few of the many varieties on the market. We’ve tried several other types, but they weren’t worth the waste of ink. If you’ve found a reliable light that compares to what we have here, we’d be interested in hearing about it.
![anchor light sailboat Extra Anchor Lighting](https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/8.-we-compensated-for-the-tilt-of-the-deck-by-cutting-the-mounting-square-on-an-angle-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg)
1. We built our own winch mount using a square wooden plug that fit neatly into the winch handle socket.
![anchor light sailboat Extra Anchor Lighting](https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/8a.-you-can-also-simple-leave-it-flat-on-the-deck.-Velcro-would-add-enough-security-for-the-night-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg)
2. We also tried leaving it flat on the deck, secured by high strength hook and loop (Velcro) fasteners. This location made the light less visible at closer distances, but the main drawback was the vulnerability to being stepped on.
![anchor light sailboat Extra Anchor Lighting](https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/2a.-silver-hampton-bay-pathway-light.-sealing-is-sufficient-to-keep-it-dry-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg)
3. Although the solar charged Hampton Bay light is not specifically designed for marine use, it is meant for use outdoors, and its seals do a good job of keeping moisture at bay in the harsh marine environment.
![anchor light sailboat Extra Anchor Lighting](https://cdn.practical-sailor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/6.-swapping-NiCads-for-lithium-recaragbles-greatly-extends-run-time-300x225.jpg.optimal.jpg)
4. We experimented by replacing the rechargeable NiCad batteries with rechargeable lithium ion batteries. They ran longer, but would not recharge fully on solar power.
MANTUS, www.mantusmarine.com
HAMPTON BAY, www.hamptonbay.com
TECNIQ, www.tecniqinc.com
ESAFETY, www.esafetylights.com
LONAKO, www.lonako.com
DAVIS INSTRUMENTS, www.davisinstruments.com
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I am really surprised that you did not include the Luci light in your choices. It is my go to option hanging on the davit at the back of our boat. It also doubles as a navigation light for the dinghy. It maintains its brightness thru the night and if it falls overboard it floats. Peter Clay
I love Luci lights have owned several but the hanging piece always breaks causing leakage way to quick. I actually sent my last one back after it lasted less then a month. If they fixed this issue I would buy a few of them to keep around.
I’d like to share my version of a supplemental solar powered anchor light. I bought what was back in 2018 listed as “the brightest solar path light” and modified it to hang from my port spreader by adding hanging wires of stainless steel seizing wire and a downhaul, and based on Practical Sailor’s recommendation that anchor lights should be blue to distinguish them from the white lights ashore, I made a cone out of blue plastic film from an art supply online source, and put that inside the clear plastic lens of the light. It shows up nicely from a distance when approaching the boat at night, and is certainly distinctive. The light is bright enough to light up the deck well enough at night to move about safely, although is not bright enough to do tasks. For that I still use a headlamp. Alas, that particular light is no longer being made, but the same idea could be applied to many other currently available lights. I’ve had to install new commonly available AA NiMH batteries twice since I started using it. They eventually poop out.
Hanging it from the spreader seems about ideal – high enough to be easily seen from a distance, but not so high as to blend in with shore lights.
I’d post a photo of the modified light, but your comment section doesn’t appear to allow that.
Another good lighting product is a lantern from luminAID ( https://luminaid.com ). The company makes various sizes of inflatable, floating lanterns which are solar charged. The light intensity can be varied and the shape makes the lantern easy to hang. I hang one from mid-boom and set it to illuminate most of the deck.
Another reason to buy from luminAID is they donate lanterns to people hit by disasters. In fact, you can buy and lantern and donate a lantern.
Mantus Rail light is the only way to go. They are rechargeable and last several days without charge and they go off automatically during daylight hours. Very robust and well made.
Most curious that the article did not include a kerosene lantern as an auxiliary, or primary, anchor light. They are a low tech solution that are utterly reliable. The only downside is the need for a supply of kerosene. My experience is that a few quart fuel bottles lasts an entire sailing season. It is a low tech solution worthy of consideration.
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Combination Masthead and White All-Round (Anchor) Light
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Fold Down Combination Masthead/White All-Round Light
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![anchor light sailboat a man on a boat with navigation lights visible](https://www.boatus.org/img/findings/48/banner.jpg)
Navigation Lights
- You are required to display the appropriate lights at night or during times of reduced visibility.
Navigation lights are used to prevent collisions at night or in times of reduced visibility, and are an essential tool in keeping you and your vessel safe. Nav lights allow you to see other nearby vessels, and allow other vessels to see you.
Nav lights also provide information about the size, activity, and direction of travel. By understanding the characteristics of Nav lights, you can determine an appropriate course of action as you approach another vessel.
On any vessel, navigation lights have a specific color, (white, red, green, yellow, blue), arc of illumination, range of visibility, and location, as required by law and regulations. For the purposes of this course, we will concentrate on pleasure boats under 65 feet in length. Knowledge of navigation lights is important to a small-boat skipper for separate, but important, reasons.
- You are legally responsible for displaying lights of the proper color, intensity, location and visibility on your boat.
- Knowing the type and heading of another boat.
Legal Requirements
Vessels are required to show the proper navigation lights from sunset to sunrise in all weather conditions, good and bad. During these times, no other lights that could be mistaken for lights specified in the Rules of the Road can be displayed, nor any lights that impair the visibility or distinctive character of navigation lights, or interfere with the keeping of a proper lookout. The Rules also state that navigation lights must be shown in conditions of reduced visibility, and may be shown at other times considered necessary.
It's Your Responsibility
It is the responsibility of the owner/operator of a vessel that she show the proper navigation lights for her size and the waters in which she is operating. It is not the responsibility of the manufacturer, importer, or selling dealer. Many boats are delivered with lights that do not meet legal requirements with respect to technical characteristics or placement on the vessel. Remember also, that the angles of visibility must be met when the boat is underway-if your boat rides at a significant bow-up angle, take that into consideration when installing and/or checking your lights.
Navigation Lights for Powerboats
Power driven vessels underway shall exhibit a masthead light forward, sidelights and a stern light. Vessels less than 12 meters in length may exhibit an all around white light and side lights. Power driven boats on the Great Lakes may carry an all around white light in stead of a second masthead light and stern light combination.
![anchor light sailboat a diagram of a boat with lights](https://www.boatus.org/img/study-guide/navigation/lights-1.jpg)
Sidelights - Colored lights - red on port and green on starboard - showing an unbroken arc of the horizon of 112.5 degrees, from dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on each side.
Combination lights - Sidelights may be combined in a single fixture carried at the centerline of the vessel.
Stern light - A white light showing over an unbroken arc of the horizon of 135 degrees, centered on dead astern.
Navigation Lights for Sailing
![anchor light sailboat a diagram of a sailboat with lights](https://www.boatus.org/img/study-guide/navigation/lights-2.jpg)
A sailing vessel of less than 7 meters in length shall, if practicable, exhibit regular navigation lights, but if not practical, she shall have ready at hand an electric torch or lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision.
Diving Lights
Another light display that you may see in resort areas, or waters that have wrecks or reefs, is the night diving configuration. This has three vertical masthead lights, that have a red-white-red sequence. You must maintain a good distance from these vessels, and you should also be aware that there may be divers near you.
Interpreting what you see
![anchor light sailboat a diagram of a sailboat with lights](https://www.boatus.org/img/study-guide/navigation/lights-3.jpg)
It's great that you're learning the basics of lights - what is required and when they're required. But, this in only the beginning. You must also learn how to interpret the navigation lights that you see when you are underway at night- and for your safety-learn it well.
For instance, if you see a vessel approaching that shows a light pattern such as the ones to the right, you immediately know that you are in a crossing situation, and that you must yield to the other vessel - that's why it is red.
![anchor light sailboat a diagram of a sailboat with lights](https://www.boatus.org/img/study-guide/navigation/lights-4.jpg)
Seeing a green light over a white light indicates a fishing vessel actively trawling. You not only need to avoid the vessel, but you also need to remember that it could potentially have a very large net deployed that you will also need to avoid.
And there are numerous other lights and combinations of lights that you must be able to instantly recognize - the lights for a sailboat that is privileged over a motorboat, the special lights of various fishing vessels, a dredge or a vessel not under command. Study the requirements for navigation from the viewpoint of a "looker" as well as a boat owner.
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anchor light or steaming light
- Thread starter Tim2853
- Start date Aug 28, 2006
- Hunter Owner Forums
- Smaller Boats
I'm a little emabarassed to ask this question but I can't understand the books I've been reading on this subject. I also would like to understand if my light is wired corectly. This question is directly mainly to other 260 owners. I have a white light at the top of my mast. The control panel switch for this light can be moved to steaming, off (center position), or mast.When the switch is set to steaming, the light cannot be seem from the front but is visible for approximately 270 degrees to the rear and sides. When the switch is set to "mast", the light is visible 360 degrees. According to what I've read, when I'm moving (steaming) under wind or motor power, I should use a steaming light. However, a bridge captain informed me that he could not see me approaching from up river because there was no visible light on my mast.I've been setting the switch to "mast" when at anchor, because I understand an "anchor" light needs to be visible 360 degrees. So if I need the 360 light when at anchor and I need to be visible from the front when steaming, when would I ever need the light only visible from the rear and sides?Do you think the light has been accidentaly rotated by the previous owner? Shouldn't the steaming light at the top of the mast be visible from the front and sides but not from the back? I also have a steaming light just above the transom.
![anchor light sailboat Bill Roosa](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/77/77182.jpg?1443871943)
You have a screwed around lamp You are correct. When "steaming" you have to present an all around white light and your red and green running lights. When sailing you have to present a white light only to the rear and your red and greens. If memory serves it is 120 degrees or 60 degrees either side of the centerline of the boat toward the stern when sailing. When you turn on the "steaming" light it covers the other 240 degrees making effectively an "all around" light.Do your have an "aft" white light? It sounds like the light is just put on backward. Time for a trip up the mast.
The light fixture is reversed. When steaming you should show a forward facing light for approximately 225 degrees. When you flick on the anchor light it will turn on both the steaming and rear facing to complete the 360 degrees. The wiring seems to be OK so you just need the reverse the fixture. Perhaps a 260 owner can tell you how it is attached.
![anchor light sailboat Rick Webb](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/74/74327.jpg?1485656699)
Don't thinks so Bill. Or not in Australia And I'm pretty sure it is the rule all over the world.When at anchor at night you must display an all round white light and no other navigation lights.Whilst under sail alone you must display Port and starboard lights plus a white stern light that is only visable from behind.Whilst under power even if your sails are up you must display as above for sailing as well as a forward facing white mast head light.
twalker H260
Check deck connection Have pulled the wiring out of the deck connector when stepping the mast on my 260. I know it is possible to reconnect the wires incorrectly. Try switching the positions of the red and white wires in the connector from the mast.
Mr twalker you are? Spot on. The easiest way to fix the problem.
![anchor light sailboat Don s/v Tellico](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/74/74613.jpg?1451434729)
Don s/v Tellico
Re-read it Mark. Bill is right, although I didn't think so at first either. You're both saying the same thing. The term "all around" is confusing.To clairfy, I think: Steaming is combination of a stern light and the foward facing mast light for an "all around" (i.e., 360 degree) white light.Anchor is a single "all around" white light at the highest point of the boat - typically the top of the mast.Did I get that correct?
MAST LIGHT MAST LIGHTMy 2005 was wired wrong from the factory. Check archives Crazy Dave talked about this. If yours is wired backwards pull switch panel to change wire connections.
alan great south bay of long island ny
yes, no, maybe... ...I agree that the most likely cause is reversal of wiring. BUT it is possible to reverse the two lamp fixture at the top of the mast, and as pointed out, you will not be displaying the proper arc of "mast head light" if the rear fixture was placed foward. The technical term "mast head light" is synonamous with "steaming light", but I don't believe that it includes a"stern light" which is a differnt animal. On these sized boats, you can use an all around white light (fixture at top of mast only when both lamps are on) WHEN UNDER POWER IF your stern light is off. Again since the boat is configured with a mast head light (225 degree arc) and a stern light (135 degree arc) you may as well use that configuration under power. Don and Mark, I think that you are both saying the same thing using different terms. alan
![anchor light sailboat Jerry10776](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/68/68297.jpg?1443871924)
Almost -- to further clarify stern and masthead lights for sailboats less than 20 meters under motor power: Stern light facing aft at 135 degrees and masthead light facing foward at 270 degrees. The anchor light is the one that shows 360 degrees and should be mounted at the highest part of the mast. To complicate matters, there are exceptions for boats less than 7 meters (23 feet). Check pages 44 & 45 in the 2001 edition of Boat Smart by the USPS for more information.
A good reference w/ pics Here's a good reference:http://www.auxetrain.org/lights2.htmlTim: Agree, sounds like you need to physically rotate your light 180, no wireing will fix this as far as I can tell.
![anchor light sailboat soling42](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/77/77643.jpg?1443871945)
Step the mast I'm with Rick. The 260 mast steps so easy that it's a simple deal. If you don't do it often then consider some mast head maintenance while it's down too.Michael s/v Bonafide H260
![anchor light sailboat Dennis Kitchen](https://forums.sailboatowners.com/data/avatars/m/67/67224.jpg?1444052636)
Dennis Kitchen
one more to weigh-in on this. First in your question you say steaming light might be for sail and powering. Actually it's only required for powering. Remember that the right of way rules change depending on whether you're under sail or power. The skipper of a conflicting vessel needs to know whether you are pure sail or motor sailing. If he sees a high mounted white lite in addition to your running lights he will assume you are motoring; even if your sails are up, and act accordingly. Likewise, if you are at anchor and the high mounted light is visible(unless he is behind you he wont know if it's your mast or steaming) AND YOU FORGET to turn off your running lights he will again assume you are under power. Under sail you should show RED/Green forward and White aft. On your boat this should be your running lights and mounted on the bow pulpit and on the transom. Of course this gives you 360 degrees visibility BUT IS NOT WHAT is termed "all-around". The anchor light is "all around".... one light or combination of WHITE lights in ONE location projecting 360 degrees at highest practical point. As one responder said, the rules have a little varience based on boat length. Bottom line...your light is on backwards.
Still, yes, no, maybe... ...in no particular order! Nice condensed Colregs UnderDog. I would still check the wiring first as when I changed my deck plug it became painfully obvious that I had reversed the wiring too. It may be possible to tell without without dropping the mast, which lamp has the larger arc (mast head light at 225 degrees vs rear facing lamp at 135 degrees). The light fixture is high up and if you can't tell which of the lamps has the larger arc I would drop the mast.I carry spare bulbs and battery opperated lamps as a backup and although not certified are better than nothing. Love sailing at night, nothing in the world like it. alan
Yes when navigating at night ... you should show a white stern light. One, usually located at the stern rail. To show two one above the other is to represent a large cruising ship. If the 260 has a stern light then the one at the top of the mast should be off with just the front being lit on a 225 arc.
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sku: N1-360-CLRB-8
Ip67, uscg 3nm pedestal anchor light.
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sku: NSS-USCG
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sku: N3-TRI-CMB
Smart led tri-color, anchor light, and strobe.
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sku: FS-31-08
8-led isotropic 31mm festoon bulb.
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sku: TW-1157-SM
Double-contact indexed bay15d 18-led surface mount cluster.
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sku: N1-360-CLR
Led all-around anchor light.
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Compact ge89 and ge90 replacement for attwood & perko.
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sku: FS-42-30C
30-led 42mm cone end festoon - mini-max (fs-42-30c).
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sku: FS-31-04
4-led, 31mm(1-1/4") festoon bulb (fs-31-04).
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Economy series 25 led navigation light - bi-color bow port/starboard.
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Economy series 25 - port & starboard led navigation lights.
NavLight™ Series 1 USCG-Certified LED Anchor Light - Now on a Pedestal! This elegant, super bright, and efficient 3NM all-around anchor lamp meets the requirements for vessels up to 50 Meters in length. This lamp has all of the same specifications...
OUR NEWEST NAVIGATION LAMP FOR 2020 - STAINLESS STEEL WITH EASY MOUNTING! If you are looking for an easy and economical LED replacement for your old Aqua Signal or similar navigation light, then this USCG approved LED navigation lamp from...
THIS AMAZING 2-WIRE LED LAMP IS A TRI-COLOR, 360 DEGREE ALL-ROUND ANCHOR LIGHT, AND SOS STROBE IN A SINGLE COMPACT FIXTURE. While this looks like an ordinary anchor light fixture, proprietary LED technology makes it function as a Tri-Mode fixture...
Our new 31mm (1-1/4 inch) cone-end LED festoon is a great solution for replacing up to 10W 31mm festoon bulbs in Attwood and Perko anchor light fixtures. This bulb has a true constant-current circuit, so it can operate from 10VDC to 30VDC (12VDC or...
LED Replacement for BAY15d Indexed Bayonet Bulbs used in Navigation and Anchor Lights. This bulb uses 18 triple-emitter surface mount (SMD) LEDs arrayed in 5 planes for 360° visibility. It draws only 3W (0.25A at 12V), yet vastly outperforms an...
NavLight™ Series 1 USCG-Certified LED Anchor Light. This elegant, super bright, and efficient 3NM all-around anchor lamp meets the requirements for vessels up to 50 Meters in length. This lamp is simple to install on the mast-top with the...
LEDs: (13) 2835 emitters Input Voltage: 10 - 30VDC (Integrated Constant Current IC) Wattage: 1.9 Watts Amperage: 0.16A at 12VDC Beam Angle: 360° Color Temperature: 2,900°K (Warm White), 6,000°K (Cool...
THE WORLD'S BRIGHTEST 42MM CONE-END LED FESTOON This cone-end LED Festoon replaces Perko 0070DP1CLR (Fig. 70), Forespar (WN-211), Hella, and other 42mm (1-5/8" or 1-11/16") through 44mm cone-end festoons in anchor lights, steaming lights and navigation...
This LED festoon bulb features 30 super-bright mini-SMD LEDs. It uses the latest technology, giving the highest output per watt. Used as an anchor light, it is substantially brighter than the 10W incandescent it replaces. This is a drop-in...
This 9-LED bulb produces a true 180° beam pattern! Perfect for replacing festoons in overhead dome type fixtures, as well as in stern lights and steaming lights that use a 42mm cone-end SV8.5 type bulb. It has 9 high-output 5050...
31mm (1-1/4 inch) LED SV8.5 Festoon - perfect for replacing incandescent festoons up to 10W used in many courtesy lights and Perko fixtures. Replaces foot lights found on newer boats from Beneteau and other builders. Fits Perko 1100 Fig. 71 Port and...
This bulb converts your ordinary anchor light into a Tri-Color and Anchor Light combination navigation light - read on to see how we do it. Marinebeam and its French partner MarineLED have been working on this concept for several years, and this...
Marinebeam's USCG Certified LED NavLight™ Series 1 Bi-Color. Tired of changing bulbs and fixtures at the bow due to moisture, corrosion or wimpy output? This super-bright, sealed-for-life nav light is strong, IP-67 submersion-proof, and...
Replacement LED deck light bulb for Hella deck lights and combination deck/masthead steaming lights 998505001 . Replaces the 20W halogen GX5.3 MR16 bulb found in the Hella 8505 Series lights (bulb # 8GH-998-529001). For the Forespar ML-2 and ML-1...
LEDs: (36) 3018 emitters Input Voltage: 10 - 30VDC (Integrated Constant-Current IC) Wattage: 3 Watts Amperage: 0.25A at 12VDC Beam Angle: 360° Isotropic Color Temperature: 3,000°K (Warm White) LED Package...
IP65 304 Stainless Steel Shark Eye Running Lights w/ Gasket An affordable, stainless steel LED replacement for standard shark eye style navigation lights. Featuring color coordinated LEDs, this fixture has user replaceable bulbs that will be brighter...
AN UNBELIEVABLE DEAL FOR OUR STAINLESS STEEL 12V LED NAVIGATION LIGHT. This is our version of a very common type small boat bi-color navigation light. An LED navigation light fixture that is an easy replacement for many of the more expensive and...
Bi-Color LED Navigation Light 10-30VDC Horizontal Mount 2NM Our Marinebeam red/green running light is USCG certified for sail or power driven vessels up to 20M (65'). This IP67 LED lamp is fully-waterproof, high-output, and impact resistant. It mounts...
One pair of Marinebeam 12V/24V horizontal-mount 2NM LED navigation side lights (1 Port Side Red & 1 Starboard Side Green). Marinebeam LED running lights are USCG certified for sail or power driven vessels up to 20M (65') - suitable for OEM use...
Stainless Steel Sideboard LED Running Lights - Port and Starboard (Pair). These economical LED navigation lights are made completely of stainless steel, with a polished outer finish. Sleek tear-drop shape and low-profile give a classic...
Marinebeam's USCG Certified NavLight™ LED side light Marinebeam LED Sidelights are typically used in pairs, but they are sold separately. These 112.5° LED sidelights replace traditional red and green sideboard lights which are mounted on the...
LEDs: (60) 2835 emitters Input Voltage: 10 - 30VDC (Integrated Constant Current IC) Wattage: 5.2 Watts Amperage: 0.44A at 12VDC Beam Angle: 360° Color Temperature: 2,900°K (Warm White), 6,000°K (Cool...
Economy LED Bi-Color Bow-Mounted Navigation Running Light - Series 25 Style Our customers asked for a Series 25 type bow-mount bi-color LED running light to replace their existing sun-ravaged and crumbling factory-fit Aqua Signal navigation lights. They...
Economy LED Side Navigation Lights. Pair (Port & Starboard) - Series 25 Style Priced per pair (Port & Starboard) Replace your tired old fixtures with super-bright and efficient LEDs. Our customers asked for a suitable replacement for...
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IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
The Inland Rules have specific requirements as to anchor lights. That rule is quoted below, as is the USCG site reference. A 360-degree white all-around masthead light with two-mile visibility normally fulfills this requirement for most pleasure boats, but familiarize yourself with and follow the rule. Wire gauge, length of wiring, connections ...
Taking all the anchor lights out on the editor's boat late one June evening, we picked up a buoy in Calshot Bay and hung the lights in the foretriangle of the yacht, around 2.5m above deck level. At first we tried lighting five of them at once, to see if we could compare them together, but 150m away the light started to merge into one bright ...
Boat Seating, Deck & Covers. Boat Seating. Helm & Fishing Seats. Folding Seats; Lounge Seats; Leaning Posts; Pontoon Boat Seats. Seat Hardware. Tables; Boat Covers; Bimini Tops; ... 2010 Fold-Down Anchor Light, 2 Nautical Miles Visibility GS-950 Electric Masthead Anchor Light GS-900 Masthead Anchor Light ...
Vessels at Anchor. When anchored at night outside a designated anchorage, an all-round light visible for at least 2nm is required. ... Boats less than 20m (65.7'), a masthead light must be visible for 3nm. All other lights must be visible for 2nm. Boat over 20m (65.7') and less than 50m (164') must display a masthead light visible for 5nm. ...
Your anchor light switch will control the modes, so there are no more wires, switches or fuses to add! This fixture exceeds all of the requirements under COLREG 72 for both All-Around Anchor and Tri-Color use on boats up to 20 Meters. See an independent blog review here. 2NM Visibility; 12V/24V Operation (10-30VDC) 0.10A @ 12V - All-Around ...
As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead ...
I drilled a 1/2″ hole in the bottom of the mast on the port side above the step and installed a rubber grommet. I ran the lower end through the grommet, slipped a piece of braided flex loom over the end to dress it up and connected the conductors to the male end of the deck connector. Anchor light deck connection.
The test field included three LED lanterns and three LED bulbs. From Orca Green Marine (OGM), maker of the top choice among tri-colors in the 2005 Practical Sailor test, we reviewed the latest USCG 2-nautical-mile approved tri-color. The other tested lanterns were self-contained tri-color/anchor light combos from Signal Mate and Lopolight.
IP67 USCG Certified 3NM Waterproof LED Anchor Navigation Light with Photocell. Toggle menu (843) 885-8644 ... This light is a perfect solution for our boat's electrical system. Our boat uses lithium rechargeables, so its voltage is unusual at about 28.4 volts DC. This light runs flawlessly on 12 volts, 24 volts, and our system at 28.4.
An economical 2NM LED All-Around Anchor Light fixture navigation light intended to be mounted on the top of the mast on larger sailboats. It replaces the Aqua Signal Series 40 type anchor lights, as it is of similar size and height. Prefitted with a user-replaceable Marinebeam constant-current 10-30VDC BAY15d high-output LED bulb and 8" of ...
DAVIS INSTRUMENTS MEGA LIGHT. Many small boat sailors use this as their primary anchor light, hanging it in the rigging. It is has a 15-foot cord. The Mega-Light is still available with the original incandescent bulb (0.3 amps), and with that lamp installed, performs the same as it did in prior testing.
Combination Masthead and White All-Round (Anchor) Light [1184] Instructions & Resources ... A-16 certified lights on boats built prior to 11/1/03. To use as 24-volt lights while maintaining A-16 certification, replace the bulbs provided with Cat. No. 0072DP1CLR 24-volt bulbs. Contact us for 24 volt applications for new construction.
On any vessel, navigation lights have a specific color, (white, red, green, yellow, blue), arc of illumination, range of visibility, and location, as required by law and regulations. For the purposes of this course, we will concentrate on pleasure boats under 65 feet in length. Knowledge of navigation lights is important to a small-boat skipper ...
Great boat light and uses no amps at all. Only thing I would change is a better mounting bracket. 5 Utility LED Anchor Light. Posted by Russ Bailas on 4th Jul 2022 I use this light plugged in to a 12 volt socket in my anchor locker, wired to the panel anchor light switch.
The light fixture is reversed. When steaming you should show a forward facing light for approximately 225 degrees. When you flick on the anchor light it will turn on both the steaming and rear facing to complete the 360 degrees. The wiring seems to be OK so you just need the reverse the fixture. Perhaps a 260 owner can tell you how it is attached.
On a sailboat, they are typically at the masthead. In the past, they were simply kerosene lamps hung in the rigging. The mast light breaker would normally supply downward-facing lights on the underside of the lower spreaders, or some other location in the mast where they can illuminate the deck to help you work at night.
The Bigger the Boat, the Brighter the Light. Larger boats require brighter and usually bigger navigation lights. While true as a general rule, the minimum visibility required also varies with the type of light. Here is a brief synopsis of the requirements: Boats less than 12m (39.4'), sidelights must be visible for at least 1nm.
Young Marine 25 inch 3 Nautical Mile White LED Fold Down Boat Stern Light Boat Anchor Light for Pontoon and Fishing Boat Navigation Anchor Lights All Round 360° White LED 12-24V. dummy. TRUE MODS 12-24V White LED Marine Navigation Anchor All-Round Boat Light [USCG ABYC A-16 3NM] [Waterproof] 3 Nautical Mile Surface Mount Top Rear Stern Light ...
24 Inch Folding All-Round LED Anchor Light - 360 Degree Fold Down USCG Certified LED Fixture ... Multi-Volt input for 12V or 24V boats (10-30VDC) Low EMI circuitry (to avoid potential radio and AIS interference) True 360° coverage, 2nm visibility and vertical angle span to meet USCG, ABYC A-16, CE, and COLREG approvals;
Buy Young Marine 9 inch 3 Nautical Mile White LED Fold Down Boat Stern Light Boat Anchor Light for Pontoon and Fishing Boat Navigation Anchor Lights All Round 360° White LED 12-24V: Navigation Lights - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Includes three (3) stainless steel mounting screws, and 8' of duplex 18AWG tinned wiring to allow power connection to be made within the mast or below decks, if desirable. Specifications: Voltage: 9-33VDC. Power: 1 Watt (0.09A at 12V) Visibility: 3NM. Housing Color: Black. Output Color: Cool White (6,500K) Ingress Protection: IP67 (fully sealed)
12 Inches Anchor Light Boat Stern Light Waterproof IP67, White Fold Down Marine Navigation Lights for Boats LED for Pontoon, Jon Boat and Bass Boat (12-24V) 4.6 out of 5 stars. 125. 1K+ bought in past month. $17.99 $ 17. 99. FREE delivery Thu, Jul 25 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon.
This bulb converts your ordinary anchor light into a Tri-Color and Anchor Light combination navigation light - read on to see how we do it. ... Bi-Color LED Navigation Light 10-30VDC Horizontal Mount 2NM Our Marinebeam red/green running light is USCG certified for sail or power driven vessels up to 20M (65'). This IP67 LED lamp is fully ...