| (001) 401-739-1140 -- (001) 401-739-1149 | |
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| Spartan's Outboard Motor Mount is made of cast bronze and heavy hardwood to provide a rugged, dependable method of mounting an outboard up to 6 HP on the stern of sailboats with an afterdeck of eight inches (8") or more. The Assembly consists of two parts; the Deck Mounting Plate and the Motor mount Bracket. The deck Mounting Plate is permanently fastened through the after deck, and the Motor Bracket is positioned only when the outboard is required. This keeps the engine out of the way when it isn't needed, and doesn't spoil the beauty of the boat. The Bracket is simply placed in the deck Mounting Plate at a straight up angle, and then lowered 90 degrees to the proper horizontal position. There are no fasteners required to lock the Bracket into the mount, and the Mounting Plate alone will not snag lines. Commonly used on and similar yachts.
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Transom Brackets For Small Outboards: Fulton Rates BestIn our test of eight transom-mounted brackets, the fulton was the easiest to operate. garelick's model for motors up to 20 hp earns runner-up honors, and omc's unit deserves consideration..  The most common form of auxiliary propulsion for small sailboats is the outboard motor. On some boats, it is mounted in a well forward of the transom. Such arrangements conceal and protect the motor but may not allow it to be tilted up to get the prop out of the water when sailing. More common, perhaps is the mounting of a bracket on the transom. These generally have two positions—up and down—for lowering the motor’s prop into the water, and raising it. Brackets should be strong, durable, and, most importantly, easy to operate without having to hang out over the transom.  What Was Tested We rounded up eight brackets from five manufacturers—Fulton, Garelick, Triangle, Minn Kota and Outboard Motor Corp. (OMC). Prices ranged from $95 to $380. All are manually operated, except for the electrically powered Minn Kota. Early on we discovered that your choice depends not only on the outboard’s horsepower and weight but also on whether it’s a two- or four-stroke. We understood why weight and horsepower make a difference but weren’t sure why a four-stroke would require a special, and subsequently more expensive, bracket. “It’s the increased torque and thrust of a four-stroke,” said Jayson Klade, a Fulton Industries technical representative. The four-stroke’s greater force imposes more stress on the bracket; therefore it needs to be stronger than a bracket for a two-stroke. How We Tested The main criteria for evaluation was ease of use, but also considered was the ease of assembly and mounting, quality of materials, price and instructions. We noted how sturdy each bracket was by shaking the motor from side to side and fore and aft while placing the bracket in several positions—a “wiggle test,” if you will. We also measured the range of motion, or vertical distance, of each. To test, we collaborated with our sister publication, Powerboat Reports, whose editor owns a 21′ walkaround with a large outboard; his interest was mounting a small backup “kicker.”We had a local machine shop weld up a stainless steel plate that could be bolted to his boat’s transom and used to mount the brackets. Three motors were used—a 2000 Nissan 5-hp four-stroke, a 1980’s-era 9.9-hp Mercury two-stroke and a 1970’s 15-hp Evinrude. We hauled the boat, mounted each bracket and tried all three outboards on each one. What Was Found The three Garelick models, the four-stroke Fulton model and the OMC bracket included 3″ bolts; the other Fulton bracket came with 2-1/4″ bolts, too short for the 2-1/2″ thick transom. This was annoying as no one likes to interrupt a project with a trip to the hardware store. Minn Kota and Triangle included no hardware. Instructions that came with most of the brackets were fairly good, advising where to mount them so the outboard could perform properly. Minn Kota failed to offer this information, and the Triangle came with no directions. All but one bracket—the two-stroke Fulton—offered clearance between the motor and the bracket handle when tilted. Most used some sort of spring as its primary lifting and lowering mechanism. All except the Triangle and Minn Kota included raised strips of polypropylene or stainless steel on the mounting boards to prevent the motor from sliding off. We were surprised that OMC and Garelick’s instructions advised that the motor be taken off before trail-ering the boat. We figured the brackets would face much more stress at sea than rolling down the highway. But representatives from both companies told us otherwise. A bump in the road can cause more damage than a large wave, they said. “The G-forces are greater on the road,” said Dean Devore, OMC director of product development. Only one bracket, the four-stroke Garelick, came with a safety harness to prevent the motor from sinking to the bottom if it came off the bracket. All Fulton and Garelick models offered at least four levels to adjust outboard trim. Two of the three Garelicks—the up-to-8 hp and up-to-20 hp models—included flange-type brackets that allow you to convert the unit from a negative transom setup (an angle greater than 90°) to a positive transom (an angle less than 90°, seen mostly on sailboats). But the conversion involves swapping the brackets, reversing their position and adjusting the springs. Each of the five adjustment holes represents a 7° increment. With most of the coil-spring models, you must be very careful while operating the bracket when it is not mounted on the boat. The force of the springs is so great that you could seriously injure yourself if you trigger the release with a finger or hand inside the mechanism. Garelick’s instructions provide several warnings; Fulton’s instructions do not. Fulton: Two-strokes up to 10 hp We found this model extremely difficult to raise, so much so that we had to put our left knee on top of the transom and our right foot in the motor well to gain enough leverage to move it. The difficulty stems from the unit’s lack of springs and the fact that you must simultaneously push the one-arm lever aft and up, which is very awkward. Lowering the unit wasn’t much easier. Fulton representative Jayson Klade said the company recognizes this problem and may discontinue this model because of it. He said he has had calls from older owners who have had trouble moving a 2-hp outboard on this bracket. The unit itself is solidly built, with an anodized aluminum bracket and a polypropylene mounting board. However, the bolts used to secure this board to the bracket were rusted. We suggest replacing them with stainless steel. This was the only bracket that presented clearance problems. The Evinrude 15’s steering arm hit the bracket’s lever handle, and the Mercury’s choke smacked it when the motor was tilted. Bottom Line: Not recommended, mainly due to the difficulty we encountered raising and lowering the unit. Fulton: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model, also anodized aluminum, was much easier to operate than its little brother, due to its four springs, 1-3/4″ wider stance and larger, two-arm lever. With all three engines, we needed only one hand to operate it. However, we found two drawbacks. First, installation requires shimming (placing a 1″- to 2″-thick block of wood or aluminum between it and the transom) if mounted below the rubrail and on a flat transom, such as ours. Without a shim, the lever handle will hit the transom. In addition, shimming may require longer mounting bolts. Second, the springs obstruct eight of the 12 mounting holes, making installation more difficult. (Use a long screwdriver to bend the spring ends out of the way.) Fulton recognizes this design flaw and is working on it, said Klade. Bottom Line: Recommended. The easiest to operate. Garelick: Two-strokes up to 8 hp The body of this unit is stainless steel. Its four torsion springs helped us lift and lower it easily. You can also lessen the spring tension by cutting up to three of the four springs if lowering the bracket is too difficult due to the use of a light motor. Click here to view the Transom Brackets Value Guide. Our main complaint with this bracket was the sloppy play (fore and aft) in the up position encountered during the wiggle test. Even with its locking mechanism engaged, the bracket afforded too much play. Bottom Line: Easy to use but its sloppy play is a drawback. Garelick: Two-strokes to 20 hp This is essentially the same bracket as the smaller Garelick, except its longer body gives greater vertical travel, and it includes eight springs instead of four. We encountered no wobbling and found it to be even easier to operate than the smaller Garelick. Bottom Line: Recommended. Only the Fulton four-stroke model is easier to operate. Garelick: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model is well-made and the only one equipped with two locks and a safety harness. Unfortunately, we had great difficulty lowering all three outboards. The motors were not heavy enough to overcome the unit’s spring-loaded tension. Garelick says it becomes easier after you get the feel for it. We never did. The company does not advise cutting the springs on this model, so we have little confidence that it will work with motors up to 15 hp. We’d only use it for heavier motors, such as those from 20 to 30 hp. We also discovered that this unit requires shimming to be installed on a boat with a flat transom. (Like the small Fulton, we were only able to mount it because the stainless steel plate acted as a shim.) The directions do point this out: “Add a 1″ shim if the release handle is at or below the rubrail or the top of the transom.” But some of the diagrams show a successful mounting on a flat transom. This is misleading and confusing to the installer. Note: Garelick listed the wrong telephone number in the directions. The correct number is listed at the end of this story. Bottom Line: Recommended only for use with engines from 20 hp to 30 hp. OMC: Two- and Four-strokes up to 15 hp Unlike the Fulton and Garelick brackets, this model operates with a gas-filled cylinder. It was easy to operate, accomplished by moving a small lever with a red handle to positions marked “raise” or “lower.” To lower, simply jerk the motor up slightly and push down; to raise, push down on the motor, and the lift unlocks and rises. However, unlike most of the others, the OMC does not have multiple positions for engine trim—only two, up and down. “We’ve found that most people only use one level anyway,” said OM’s Devore. “Rarely do they want to change settings.” For $380, the most expensive motor lift in our group, the consumer might prefer this option. (The device’s shock alone costs about $100, according to Devore.) Like Garelick, OMC warns against trailer travel with the engine on the boat. It goes a step further, though, advising the owner to attach a rope to the engine in “choppy water,” suggesting to us that the manufacturer is not very confident of its product. “Perhaps that could be worded better; we are just being overly cautious,” said Devore. OMC recently introduced a larger bracket made of die-cast aluminum (the model we tested is a combination of die-cast and stamped aluminum) for outboard motors up to 125 pounds that retails for $380. Bottom Line: Works very well, but price is a drawback. Triangle: Up to 10 hp This unit came without hardware or directions. Its wooden mounting board is susceptible to rotting because raw wood is exposed on the inside of its four mounting holes. In addition, we couldn’t safely attach the 9.9-hp Mercury because the 7″-wide mounting board was too narrow. The circular pads of the engine’s bolts hung off the plate. With no directions, we weren’t sure whether this bracket could hold four-stroke engines. We called Triangle, and a representative ruled them out. Another concern is the spring on this stainless steel unit; it failed to hold the weight of the Nissan and Mercury motors. We discovered this abruptly when the Nissan came crashing down after we had released the locking mechanism. Needless to say, we believe that this bracket needs a stronger spring. Bottom Line: Not recommended, due to its weak spring, very narrow and unprotected wooden mounting board. Minn Kota: Two- and Four-strokes up to 20 hp This was the only electrically powered (12V) bracket tested. We found installation easy, the directions simple and the motor, which turns a jack screw to raise and lower the mounting board, worked effectively. Even though this unit is listed in the West Marine catalog, it is not intended for saltwater use, which explains the steel components (only the mounting board is anodized aluminum). Minn Kota may come out with a saltwater version in 2002, said spokesman Dave Golladay. We thought the electrical connections were inadequate (for salt- or freshwater use), especially the two spade connectors that attach to the unit’s motor. They are directly exposed to the water. The silicone meant to protect the motor’s housing was sloppily applied, hanging off and failing to cover certain spots. The Minn Kota flunked our wiggle test. The two arms attached to the jack screw don’t offer enough support. We would attach a third arm—there’s room. The jack screw is a potential problem, too, because it sticks out when the unit is up, leaving it open to be struck by the corner of a dock or other solid structure. Golladay said, “These are all very good points. We’re trying to enhance that product line. Our primary focus is trolling motors.” Bottom Line: Not recommended. An automatic bracket is a great idea, and one we’d like to see developed, but the Minn Kota’s subpar materials and construction make it difficult to recommend. Conclusion The Fulton four-stroke bracket is our top choice for any size outboard. It does require some shimming, but its solid construction and ease of use place it ahead of the pack. Our runner-up, the Garelick (up to 20 hp) was extremely easy to use, and it’s $60 less than the Fulton. But it’s limited to two-stroke engines, which leads us to this point: Because four-strokes are becoming more popular, it does not make sense for manufacturers to continue producing brackets for two-stroke use only. We think it only confuses the consumer. (For instance, we’ve received reader letters asking why some motor lifts are restricted to two-stroke motors.) Case in point: A 5-hp four-stroke does not produce as much torque as a 20-hp two-stroke, and yet the Garelick (up to 20 hp) restricts all four-strokes. The OMC bracket was also impressive, but you have to be willing to pay. The smallest Garelick worked well, but its failure in the wobble test is a concern. We don’t think you should consider the other models because they had, in our opinion, too many flaws. Contacts- Fulton Performance Products, Inc., 50 Indianhead Drive, P.O. Box 8, Mosinee, WI 54455; 715/693-1700. Garelick, PO Box 8, 644 2nd St., St. Paul Park, MN 55071; 651/459-9795. Minn Kota, Johnson Outdoors, 706 Holly Lane, Mankato, MN 56001; 800/227-6433. OMC, 3225 Prairie Ave., Beloit, WI 53511; 847/689-5630. Triangle, Inc., 51 Fernwood Lane, Roslyn, NY 11576; 516/365-8143. RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHORHow to mount your camera on deck: record your adventures with diy innovations. i have a 19 foot sail boat with a 5 hp nissan ob. the Garelic a bracket MN 10470 (not sure of MN). The main issue is the grommets spacers corrode within 2 seasons . I sail in salt/brackish water. I complained and they gave me a discount on another one they said better modle. It did the same thing. Not sure what to get now that I purchaesed a 6 hp Tahatsu that is heavier 55lbs. Anyone know where I can buy a gas cyclinder for the OMC bracket Darrell, what about short shaft vs long shaft outboards? Can I use my short shaft 15 Hp Evinrude on a sailboat with a bracket? 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 Can You Put An Outboard Motor On A Sailboat – How To Video When you are docking or sailing without wind, a motor may come in handy. I have used and worked on outboard motors for a long time and hope to answer your questions with this article. You can mount an outboard motor to a sailboat using an auxiliary motor bracket. This bracket is designed to lift and lower the motor to the desired height in the water. Make sure the bracket is rated for the weight of the motor. This article will discuss all things about outboard motors and how to utilize them on your boats. There are a lot out there and a bunch of questions to answer. How Do You Attach An Outboard Motor To A Sailboat?An outboard motor bracket is required to mount an engine to your sailboat’s transom. The size of the bracket will depend on the weight of the engine. The bracket is mounted to the transom using bolts and a special adhesive. The easiest way to mount an outboard to your boat will be to take it out of the water first! This will ensure that anything you drop does not sink to the bottom of the ocean. This will also give you the option to work right side up. If you tried to do it on the water, you would be working upside down hanging over the transom. The outboard motor bracket will make your life so much easier when it comes to using your engine. The bracket allows you to move your engine in and out of the water with ease. Torsion springs in the bracket will counterbalance the motor weight making it feel super light when raising and lowering it. Most brackets have multiple positions as well, making it easy to get your desired depth. There are a few things to remember when mounting your bracket.
For a more in-depth look at using an outboard bracket, take a look at this video. They replace their old one with a new one. It’s a great video on all of the steps. Check out my other article all about getting your outboard ready for summer! Which Outboard Engine Bracket Is Best?The list below describes 9 different brackets and how they can benefit you when mounting your outboard motor. 1. Panther Marine 55-0407AL Lightweight 4-Stroke BracketAdjustable outboard motor bracket with a max weight of 132 lbs. It has 10 inches of travel with 5 locking slots. The mounting board is 2 inches thick and made of polypropylene. Designed for 2 and 4-stroke motors. Long and short shaft engine capable. $230.00 Click Here To Purchase! 2. Panther 2 Stroke Outboard Motor BracketThis bracket is only rated for 82 lbs. It has 14 inches of travel and 5 different stopping points. This model is not recommended for 4-stroke motors. $169.00 3. Panther Marine 55-0410 4-Stroke BracketThis model holds 263 lbs and has 10 inches of travel. The mounting board is 2 inches thick and made of polypropylene. $252.00 Click Here To Purchase! 4. Panther Marine 55-0021 Motor BracketOne of Panther’s smaller units, but it still has a max weight of 115 lbs. It has 11 inches of travel and 5 locking spots. It is not recommended to be used with 4-stroke motors. $161.00 Click Here To Purchase ! 5. Five Oceans Adjustable Outboard Bracket FO-420401Max weight of 85 lbs for this bracket. Made from AISI316 stainless steel. Five vertical running position lock bars to compensate for water level and boatload. $159.00 6. BaQiRo Stainless Steel 2 Stroke Motor BracketThe mounting board is made of solid polypropylene and has a wide track body for stability. The maximum weight for this unit is 115 lbs. $102.00 7. Panther Marine 55-0030 Swim Platform Motor BracketThis unit is designed for a swim platform on the back of a boat. The max engine weight is 195 lbs. It has 4 inches of vertical travel and 3 running positions. Rated for 2 and 4-stroke motors. $299.00 8. Panther Marine Fixed 35 HP Motor BracketA fixed motor bracket with no movement of any kind. The max weight rating is 263 lbs. Compatible with 2 or 4-stroke motors. $104.00 Click Here To Purchase! 9. Panther Marine Fixed 15 HP Motor BracketA fixed motor bracket with a max weight of 85 lbs. No movement with this fixed mount style. 2-inch thick mounting board. $84.00 Click Here To Purchase! All of these brackets can help make your outboard life easier. Just be sure to get one that is rated for your type of motor. If you don’t have a motor for your auxiliary motor bracket, keep reading to find out more about outboard and inboard motors. Is A 2-Stroke Or 4-Stoke Outboard Faster?2 stroke motors use two-piston strokes to generate a single revolution of the crankshaft, while a 4 stroke motor has to do 4 strokes per revolution. This will generate more power and speed than a 4-stroke motor of the same horsepower. When it comes to outboard motors, 2-stroke and 4-stroke motors are a common sight. They both have their positives and negatives of course, but one may be better than the other. 2-stroke motors use two-piston strokes to produce a single revolution of the crankshaft. The crankshaft is what drives the power of the engine. Since the 2-stroke only has to stroke 2 times, this creates greater acceleration and speed for your boat. This type of motor is also much lighter than a 4-stroke. Being lighter means a more power-to-weight ratio. There are some negatives to 2-stroke outboards though. A 2-stroke motor is not environmentally friendly when it comes to exhaust. These emissions can be harmful to you, the water, and the air around you. The fuel consumption on these types of motors is much higher than a 4-stoke outboard motor. One other factor to consider is noise. 2-strokes are a lot louder than 4-strokes. If that doesn’t concern you then maybe a 2-stroke is the right one for you. 4-stroke motors have a lot of positives. The biggest one in my opinion is being more fuel-efficient. Burning less fuel with today’s gas prices is a huge plus. They are far less harmful to the environment. These types of motors also have a better lubrication system making sure all the working parts are oiled making your engine last longer. One of the main reasons to consider a 4-stroke motor is torque. If you have a heavy boat and need some serious torque to get things moving then a 4-stroke is probably a better choice for you. The negatives of the 4-stroke engine are not that bad. It is heavier than a 2-stroke outboard. You will not be moving it that much though. Plus, with the outboard brackets listed earlier in this article, you won’t even notice the heavier weight. It does require some basic maintenance since you have an oil filter to replace now. Just like your car, it’s very simple to check your oil and replace the filter when needed. In my opinion, I would go with the 4-stroke motor. It will last longer due to its lubrication system (with proper maintenance) and is better for our environment. We want to keep our waters healthy for all wildlife and people that will be using them for years to come. Are Inboard Motors Better Than Outboards?There are many factors to consider when deciding which engine to use, inboard or outboard. They both have advantages and disadvantages. As a whole, inboards are better when your boat is 30 feet or greater. If the boat is less than 30 feet, an outboard motor can be used. Inboard motors are motors that are concealed down in the boat’s hull somewhere. For sailboats, the engine is normally under the cockpit and accessed from under the steps that lead down into the cabin. On most sailboats, especially older models, the inboards are diesel engines. Sailboats use diesel because a diesel engine will last a lot longer than a regular engine. They have more power from less fuel as well. Diesel fuel has 20% more energy than regular gas. Diesel has a higher density which means it burns slower. You do get more speed and horsepower out of regular gasoline. Due to gasoline having a much lower density, it will burn faster creating more energy and HP. The Hunter I used to sail on in the Destin, FL area would only have to be filled about once a year. The engine was only turned on when the wind was dead or we were trying to get in and out of the docks, but that is still a good amount of motoring. Imagine only having to fill your car once a year. How much power should be your next question? Take a look at the next section to see how much horsepower you need. How Much Horsepower Does A Sailboat Need?As a general rule, you should calculate 1 horsepower(HP) per 550 pounds of weight. For example, a Catalina 22 weighs 2150 pounds. Take 2150 divided by 550 and you get 3.9. Always round up to avoid not having enough power. 4 HP is the right size engine for a Catalina 22. I used to own a Catalina 22 and it had a 4-hp motor on it. The engine size was perfect for the size of the boat. Now, I couldn’t go 40 mph but the speed was good enough for me. When you are motor sailing speed is usually not a concern. Cruising slowly is the best in my opinion. Let’s look at a 30ft boat. This is a very common size in the sailing world. A 30-foot Hunter Cherubini’s displacement is 9700 pounds. Displacement is another term for the weight of a sailboat. 9700 divided by 550 equals 17.63. I would round that up to 18 HP. This is not an exact formula. It is a very good estimate compared to the other articles I have read about what size engine is needed for a boat. Usually, with a 30-foot boat, you will have an inboard engine instead of an outboard. What is the most dependable small outboard motor? When it comes to picking an outboard there are a lot of options. The average life span of an outboard is 1500 hours before maintenance or possible replacement. Take a look at the list below for some dependable options. 1. 2022 Tohatsu 6 HP MFS6DWDSThis is a great portable option. This is the largest single-cylinder option from Tohatsu. The shaft length is short at 15 inches. Some other features are, saltwater rated, 6 trim positions, low oil pressure warning indicator, and more. $1560.00 2. 2022 Mercury 3.5 HP Outboard MotorThe Mercury brand is a great one. We all know it and it’s very common to see all types of boats with a Mercury motor. This one has a 20-inch shaft, visual oil level indicator, 4 trim positions, and 360 degrees of steering. $1070.00 3. Suzuki 4 HP DF4AS3 Outboard MotorSuzuki’s 4 HP motor is a good option for smaller boats. It has a short 15-inch shaft with a large easy-to-shift lever. It weighs 52 lbs which is a lot for this size of the motor. It has a fold-down tiller handle and 90 degrees left and right steering. $1245.00 4. Honda 5 HP BF5DHLHNA OutboardHonda is a great engine creator. We all know the brand and love it. This motor comes with a 20-inch shaft. A 15-inch shaft is available. Digital CD ignition for easy starting and low oil warning. There is even an option for a 6-amp charging system. $1742.00 5. Mercury 9.9 HP ELHPT EFI ProKicker MotorThis motor has an electric start! Making this a great option for convenience. It is on the larger size of power with 9.9 HP. It also has a power tilt button for easy positioning. It comes with a 20-inch long shaft as well. If you have plenty of money I recommend this one. $3720.00 6. Mercury 5 HP Propane Outboard MotorThat’s right, this outboard runs on propane! I have never experienced one of these but the clean burn is intriguing. Some of the other features are rated for saltwater and six trim positions. Check out the video below for more information. $1645.00 7. Suzuki 2.5 HP DF2.5S4 MotorThis little guy is a good option for the price if you don’t need a lot of power. It is only 29 lbs and has a 5-year warranty. The shaft length is 15 inches for those shallow waters. $819.00 8. HONDA 2.3 HP BF2.3DHLCH OutboardFor a smaller option with a good brand try this one. It has a 20-inch long shaft and 2.3 HP. The 5-year warranty means this will be your outboard for years to come. $978.00 9. Torqeedo Travel 1103 CL Electric OutboardIf you prefer no gas then this is the one you want. It weighs 39 lbs, has 3 HP, and is 29 1/4 in length. The best use is for a dinghy but if you had a small sailboat it could be great for motoring in and out of port. The price is a little high. $2999.00 When it comes to deciding which outboard motor to get just think about how fast you want to go and how big your boat is. Are Outboard Motors Easy To Work On? Personal ExperienceOutboard motors are very simple to understand making them easy to work on. If you ever have to deal with a broken down outboard motor, depending on the size, you should have no trouble figuring out the issue. I had a Mercure 8hp motor on my sailboat and had to work on it a few times. One time it stopped shifting while caught in some high winds. Fortunately, popping off the top I saw that the shifter connection had come detached. I was able to attach it quickly and get the boat moving away from the rocks. After returning to shore I made sure that would not happen again. Outboard motors are basic engines that need basic maintenance to keep them running. If you have worked on any small engines before, this should be no problem for you to figure out. Especially since everything is on the internet these days. Final ThoughtsI hope this article helped you learn a bit more about outboard motors and how they work with a sailboat. I know this might seem like a daunting task, installing an outboard motor and bracket, but it’s really not that hard if you just take your time and plan it out. My outboard was a huge help in times without wind and I strongly recommend adding one to your vessel. Cheers!  Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article. Recent PostsHow to Repair a Sailboat Hull: Step-by-Step Guide Maintaining your sailboat's hull is crucial for ensuring its longevity and performance on the water. Hull damage can occur due to various reasons, such as collisions, grounding, or general wear and... 10 Steps For Anchoring Your Sailboat Anchoring a sailboat is a fundamental skill every sailor must master. Proper anchoring ensures your boat remains secure, preventing it from drifting and potentially causing damage. Whether you're...  The $tingy SailorDiy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.  Upgrade to a Gas Spring-Operated Outboard Motor MountDo you have a heavy four-stroke outboard motor on your sailboat? Is it a chore to raise and lower with your current motor mount? Maybe you have a back injury that makes lifting a risky behavior. What about your first mate, can they raise and lower the motor if they need to? All these are good reasons to consider whether your current motor mount is adequate for your needs. Before I get started, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using these links. You can purchase the products anywhere you like, of course. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure . Summer Dance has a 2004 Yamaha 8 HP long shaft outboard motor (model F8MLHC) that weighs 87 pounds. When we bought her, the outboard was mounted on the original equipment Garhauer-made two-spring motor mount. (Incidentally, this motor does a great job of charging a deep cycle battery when you add a rectifier/regulator to it.)  My achy breaky backThe Garhauer mount is rated for up to 80 pounds but I think the springs have lost some of their strength over the years. Before I replaced it, hoisting the motor up out of the water wasn’t an easy task – there was way more than the 7 pound difference between the motor weight and the mount rating. Other than that, it’s a good mount and has held up well over 34 years. It wouldn’t be so bad if the motor were closer to the top of the sternrail but in its lowered position, I had to lean way over the sternrail to grab the mount handle and hoist the motor up. With apology to Billy Ray Cyrus , I don’t recommend it if you have herniated disks and a broken vertebra like me. It was becoming such a chore that I started looking for a way to spend more time enjoying sailing and less time nursing my back.  The way these mounts are built, it’s impossible to simply add more springs to them. That would have been my first choice for a solution but the tubes that the springs are assembled on are welded together. Except for cutting and re-welding them, there’s no way to add more springs. OMC, gone but not forgottenRather than replace the mount with a different model with more springs, I decided to look for an alternative design. I remembered reading on the Chip Ahoy blog how Chip added the missing gas spring to his OMC Auxiliary Motor Bracket. OMC is no longer in business and the motor bracket is no longer in production, but used ones appear regularly on eBay. It looked like a solid design and easier to use, so I started watching for a bargain. By the way, the corporate history of OMC is an interesting story in itself.  The OMC design is similar to that of most other outboard motor mounts, control arms in a sliding parallelogram arrangement that keeps the outboard motor vertical as it is raised and lowered. It works on the same principle as the front suspensions of most cars. But it’s also different from other mounts in several ways. First, instead of stainless steel, the major parts are made of plate and cast aluminum painted white. Second, instead of a large handle that actuates the latching mechanism, there’s a small, spring-actuating lever. And last but most importantly, instead of multiple coil springs to compensate for the motor weight, it has a single gas spring. Gas springs provide more consistent force throughout their range of motion than coil springs. To use the OMC mount, you just flip the lever to the opposite of its current position to disengage the latch. This transfers most of the weight of the motor to the gas spring so that you can easily push or pull the motor into position until the latch re-engages. A video at the end of this post shows how. Refurbishing tipsWhen a used OMC mount appeared on eBay at a really low price, I bought it almost immediately. It arrived in very good condition and looked like it had been used relatively little.  If you decide to refurbish one, don’t try to buy the OEM bushings (part numbers 25 and 27 in the diagram below) from a marine parts retailer. Part #25 is no longer available and for #27, marine retailers are asking $9-$10 EACH!  Instead, order standard 5/16″ ID flanged clip Polymer bearings (part G0242636) from an industrial supply company like Zoro.com for $1.95 per pack of 5. They will replace parts #27 (4 required). If you want to also replace the bushings at part #15 (2 required) or #25 (2 required), consider standard 3/8″ ID flanged clip Polymer bearings (part G0270837, $2.52 per pack of 5).  Transom mounting tricksWith the OMC mount reassembled, it was ready to replace the old Garhauer mount. Unfortunately, the OMC mount doesn’t have the same bolt pattern as the Garhauer mount, 6″ x 7″. The OMC mounting bolts are spaced on a 5-1/2″ x 7″ pattern. I resolved the difference by elongating the bracket holes horizontally by 1/4″ each.  The Garhauer mount on Summer Dance used six bolts through the transom because the previous owner wanted to raise the motor for some reason. Most C-22s only use four like the OMC mount. I’m not concerned about it being weak, though, because of the aluminum angle brackets that I installed on the inside of the transom to reinforce it for trailering with the outboard motor mounted. (The picture below is of the brackets installed with the old motor mount.)  After the bracket hole modification, I reused the old mounting fasteners and the angle brackets to install the OMC mount in the existing holes in the transom. How’s it work? See for yourself in this video. Other considerationsHere are a few other points to keep in mind with this mount. The OMC mount has less vertical travel than the Garhauer mount so be sure your outboard motor will sit low enough in the water to prevent cavitation. If not, you might have to drill new holes in the transom to attach it lower than your old mount. Without the outboard motor attached, the OMC mount rattles a bit in the raised position, not due to worn parts but by design. The latch rod and the slot through which it travels are not a close fit on purpose. The raised position is also where the gas cylinder does not apply any pressure. To prevent the rattling while trailering, put the mount in its lowered position to apply pressure from the gas cylinder. If you trailer like I do with your outboard mounted, the weight of the motor prevents rattling. Share this:28 thoughts on “ upgrade to a gas spring-operated outboard motor mount ”. I couldn’t vote in your poll because my motor (a 4HP 4stroke long shaft Yamaha (less than a year old)) sits on a fixed mount. I pull it out of the water using the Yamaha’s own tilt mechanism. The 4HP is light enough to do that single handed, although I always have help to mount the motor on sailing days. It only has to push a 16ft boat, so it does a decent job. Great information and love the site. Really inspiring. I’m using your jig method for refinishing my teak now. Saw the same bracket for 24.99 on ebay today. OMC mount looks great but not sure if I’ll find one in Australia. To help with the lift of my Honda BF8 (40kg) I relaced the weak spring with 2 upgraded springs from the local farmers supplies. Takes all but about 10kg – great. To help with the lift when raising the motor from the cockpit i have a short rope. I also have a webbing harness that fits around the motor with a lifting ring that works quite well. Can’t find the website at present and the blurb is on the boat. I’ll try and add that in the future. I’ve got this same motor mount with a 9.9 merc. My gas shock went south on me. Do you have any idea’s where I might find one, or can these be rebuilt .? I’m at a dead end Sorry, Bill, I don’t know of any replacement or repair solutions. Old thread etc… but i just rebuilt mine. New o rings from plumbing supply. # 10 #18 and #32 were the sizes. The cap is a pain to get off, but it can be done. Fill half the tube with atf fluid, pop in 10 grams of dry ice, and put her all back together quickly. Wait 30 mins, should be good. This past spring I needed a new outboard motor. I opted for a 9.8 Tohatsu model with power tilt. I too had to lean over the stern rail, unlock the button and hoist up my old Yamaha horizontally on the bracket. Now, I just push a button and the engine tilts up out of the water….so much easier! I can still opt to pull the bracket up vertically to change height positions of the motor, but it’s the horizontal power tilt with a push of a button that sold me!! It doesn’t get any easier than that! At my current stage of Venture 21 restoration work, I am not yet sure how my mount will work with my 6 HP Yamaha. It is a standard shaft, as was my old 7.5 HP Sears Gamefisher, used when Simran was last afloat. I have no stern railing, so that made access and use easier. That brings me to my questions: 1) Access to my mount bolts requires a challenging crawl beneath the cockpit seats and some shuffling of foam blocks. I’d love to add a locker on one or both sides. Do you have any posts or experience on adding such? I have seen to creative use of screw in/out inspection ports that would be another somewhat limited solution (no locker funtion). 2) I was out in rough water once (not intended – long story) where cavitation raised the old engine out of the water. I am sure the racing when the propeller was out of the water, not to mention inability to suck in cooling water, was not great for the motor. Have you seen folks convert a regular shaft to a long one and would that gain enough to keep it in the water in most conditions? (I’d not be out sailing if the waves are large with foaming whitecaps!) Thanks for the great posts and resources! Gig Harbor is one of the beautiful places I’m looking forward to visiting someday. 1) It’s a claustrophobic crawl in a C-22 too, so I know what you mean. I too have seen where other owners have used inspection ports to get at those spots but I’m not keen on them if there’s another way that doesn’t require cutting holes. If I didn’t already have lockers in my C-22 but wanted to add them, I’d first consider vertical water-tight hatches and leave the seat surfaces intact. You might find somebody online that has made the kind of modification before. 2) Sorry, I haven’t come across any conversions from short shaft to long shaft. Most guys just replace the outboard entirely or lower the mount to keep the prop in the water under more conditions. This is one scenario where I’d opt for making new mounting holes in the hull. That, in turn, places the motor lower on the transom, which makes it more of a grunt to raise, hence the reason for this article. I hope that helps a little, $tingy Thanks, $tingy. I, too, am a bit concerned about water getting in via a ‘custom’ locker or inspection port, and about structural rigidity. Doing it on a vertical surface does make sense, especially for a port. Yes, the ‘Harbor’ is pictuesque and there are many opportunities for additional exploration in the South Puget Sound (San Juans is what you hear about most often)…lots of ramps for trailer-sailors, too! If you head this way, give me a shout! I just bought a little 15 foot cat boat which has this mount on it. I’m pretty sure the gas shock is shot, it will not lift the bracket with no motor on it. Is that gas strut available? Thanks, Neil Hello, Neil Apparently, the strut is still available for around $200. If the mount still rotates freely, you might try adding compressed air through the Shrader valve on the end. I’ve heard of other owners that worked for. Or you can try finding another used mount on eBay or craigslist like I did. Just be sure it works correctly before you buy. I just bought an OEM bracket on Craigslist and mine also has a bad gas shock too. There must be a gas shock company out there that is close enough to work. You indicated that they are available out there but where is out there? $200 seems a lot for this spring. The price I cited was from Boats.net but they’ve since changed their site navigation and their search engine is pitiful so I wasn’t able to find you the part number. You might have better luck. Have you tried adding compressed air through the Shrader valve? Thanks for the try Stingy. I’m going to try the dry ice and ATF fluid method. Would be nice to find out who OMC bought their shock from. Like you said I found another parts supplier who wanted $300. For one. I’m also looking at some off the shelf gas shock makers. I’m trying to find a shock too. Mine is missing. Would appreciate someone able to give me measurements of fully extended and retracted. Any ideas on how I can acquire another one of those OMC kicker brackets? They come up for auction on eBay regularly but I don’t see one there right now. Just be sure you get one in good working condition and the cylinder has a good charge. Recharging the cylinder isn’t simple. Just saw your video and thanks. Could you tell me what the travel distance is on the OMC Vertical travel distance is 11″ I have the same motor mount on my Ranger 20 but the spring is so strong I have to literally sit on the motor cover and bounce up and down to get the motor to drop into the catch in the lowered position, which is ridiculous but I’m sure is entertaining to onlookers. I haven’t yet fallen into the lake. The motor is a 6hp Johnson 2 stroke the weighs about 55 lbs. I weigh about 165-170 so it takes at least 200 lbs. to drop the motor into the lower position. What’s the solution? It sounds like you’ve got a pretty fresh cylinder there. I believe OMC made a lighter rated version of the mount that might work better for your lighter motor. Maybe you could trade yours with somebody who needs more lift for their heavier motor. Are all the plastic bushings in good shape and have your tried lubricating all the hinge points to reduce any friction? We have this mount on our 18’ catboat and we were having problems moving in and out of both locking positions without physically maneuvering the pin. Initially, we thought it was the cylinder, but after seeing your pictures, noticed the inner washers were missing. Also noticed the wire piece that the spring is hooked onto underneath, is free. Screws are still there. Hoping to get something like a cable clamp to hold it in place. Any tips on replacing the washers or what clamps might work? Thanks, Sharon What part number from the diagram in the article are the washers that you’re referring to? Try clamps like these: https://www.amazon.com/LOKMAN-Stainless-Cushioned-Insulated-Installation/dp/B01IT43WVM?crid=2Q6DMBJWZ4KCW&keywords=heavy+duty+P+clips+1%2F4%22+stainless&qid=1654715961&sprefix=heavy+duty+p+clips+1%2F4+stainles%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-28&linkCode=ll1&tag=thetinsai-20&linkId=761b91d3ba05442e81d5b026957fd393&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Let me know how they work out for you! $tingy Wow, thanks for your quick response! They were parts 16 and 32. Yesterday, we headed to the hardware store but never found a small enough clamp, so picked up an extra wide zip tie to cut up and drill holes. If that doesn’t work, we’ll order your clamp. Also got 2 1/2” washers that should work. Spring is looking pretty rusty- may need to replace that next. Hope it holds and we’ll take care of it next year. Thanks again for your help. Back again- any idea where I can get the circled parts from your diagram of the OMC hydraulic Outboard motor bracket? The part numbers are 19, 32 and the rod is 7. The rod is is the piece that moves up and down in the track and snaps in place when motor is raised or lowered. See diagram below. We tried a 1/2 rod but it didn’t work. Any idea of the length of that rod? Thanks!Sharon Sent from my iPad I do not, sorry. The rod is 7/16″ in diameter and 5.5″ long with e clips in both ends though cotter pins would work too. Leave a comment Cancel replyThis site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed . 
Auxiliary Motor Mounts Garelick Platform Mount Auxiliary Motor BracketGarelick Platform Mount Auxiliary Motor Bracket Fixed Height for auxilliary or trolling motor 304 Stainless steel hardware 1-1/2" Thick X 8" Wide X 9-1/2" Tall Black Poly Mounting Board For motors up to 15 H.P. Motor weight up to 75 lbs.  Garelick Curved Outboard Motor TilterGarelick Curved Outboard Motor Tilter The new Garelick Curved Outboard Motor Tilter is designed to fit most modern shaped Shrouds. This tilter features a large leverage tool for use with manual lift outboard motors. Compact for stowage purposes, the...  Garelick 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Bracket 7-30 HP, 9" TravelGarelick 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Bracket 7-30 HP, 9" Travel Features: Allows you to raise and lower trolling and auxiliary motors with ease Built especially for new 4 stroke, heavier, high torque motors Extra wide 11 1/2" black poly mounting board...  Moeller Outboard Motor Transom PadMoeller Outboard Motor Transom Pad Rubber pad is oil and weather resistant Reduces motor vibration noise. Fits most outboards to 25hp. Protects Transom Measures: 11.00" W X 14.75" L  Garelick Outboard Motor Cart Up To 15 HPGarelick Outboard Motor Cart Up To 15 HP Outboard motor cart for use when storing or moving motors. Strong aluminum tube frame, 1-2" steel plated axle. Black recycled plastic mounting board. Accepts long shaft motors. Specifications: H.P.: to...  Sea Dog Outboard Motor Safety Cable, Vinyl Coated50" vinyl coated galvanized 3/16" steel wire cable comes with Sea Dog snap hook #156060.  Sea Dog Rail Mount Motor BracketRAIL MOUNT MOTOR BRACKET- Injection Molded Polypropylene. Designed to hold small outboards up to 8 HP- 2 cycle upright on the stern rail. These Sea-Dog Motor Brackets will fit both 7/8" and 1" rails as well as rails using 90° tee fittings. Most other...  Garelick Stationary Outboard Motor BracketGarelick Stationary Outboard Motor Bracket For 4-stroke Motors Fixed height for auxiliary or trolling motor - 4-stroke 304 stainless steel brackets and hardware Mounts to transom Motor Safety Cable included Made in the USA Weight not to exceed...  Garelick Outboard Motor Carrier up to 130lbsGarelick Outboard Motor Carrier to 130lbs For use when storing or moving motors. Strong aluminum tube frame - Tough alloy drawn aluminum up to 25% stronger than extruded tube. High tensile alloy reinforced aluminum tube, 1/2" steel plated axle. Black...  Garelick Outboard Motor Stand up to 85lbsGarelick Outboard Motor Stand to 85lbs For ease when storing or moving motors. Strong aluminum tube frame - Tough alloy drawn aluminum up to 25% stronger than extruded tube. High tensile alloy reinforced aluminum tube, 1/2" steel plated axle. Black...  Garelick Replacement Mounting Pad - WideGarelick Replacement Mounting Pad - Wide Features & Specifications: Black poly construction 11.5" W x 10.75" H x 2" thick (29 x 27 x 5cm) For use with Models 71033, 71039, 71056, 71040, 71042, 71057, 71090, 71093, & 71098  Garelick Auxiliary Outboard Motor Bracket to 20HPGarelick Auxiliary Outboard Motor Bracket to 20HP Features: Retractable bracket for trolling auxiliary motors on power or sailboats with ease Transom mount locks and holds motor up or swings down for propulsion Tough alloy anodized aluminum frame,...  Garelick Heavy Duty Motor Safety CableGarelick Heavy Duty Motor Safety Cable Features: Secures motor to motor bracket or boat Black poly vinyl cover Stranded Steel Cable, .133" in Diameter Secures motor to motor bracket or boat Black poly vinyl cover Specifications: 2000 lbs...  Garelick 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Bracket 7-25 HP, 15" TravelGarelick 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Bracket 7-25 hp, 15" Travel Features: Retractable Bracket Allows you to raise and lower trolling and auxiliary motors with ease Built especially for 4 stroke heavier high torque motors Extra Wide 11 1/2" black poly...  Garelick Stationary Auxiliary Outboard Motor BracketGarelick Stationary Auxiliary Outboard Motor Bracket Fixed Height for auxiliary or trolling motor. 304 Stainless steel hardware 1-1/2" Thick x 8" Width black poly mounting board. For motors up to 15 H.P. Motor weight up to 75lbs.  Garelick 2-Stroke Outboard Motor TilterGarelick 2-Stroke Outboard Motor Tilter Outboard motor tilter is a leverage tool for use with manual lift motors. Tilts motor back easier with less strain. Adjustable to fit shroud on outboards with hand tools. All contact points are cushioned, compact...  Aluminum Auxiliary Motor Bracket for 4-Stroke MotorsGarelick Aluminum Auxiliary Motor Bracket for 4-Stroke Motors Raise and lower trolling and auxiliary motors on power and sailboats with ease Built especially for new 4 Stroke, heavier, high torque motors Extra Wide 11 1/2" (29cm) Black Poly Mounting...  Garelick Auxiliary Outboard Motor Bracket to 7.5HPGarelick Auxiliary Outboard Motor Bracket for 7.5HP 2-Stroke Motors This Garelick Auxiliary Motor Bracket is built to perform with a tough alloy anodized aluminum frame and stainless steel springs. This Motor Bracket is for outboards up to 7.5 HP with...  Garelick Stationary Outboard Motor Bracket with Adjustable AngleGarelick Stationary Outboard Motor Bracket with Adjustable Angle Fixed height for auxiliary or trolling motor - 2 stroke 304 Stainless brackets and Hardware 1 1/2" (4cm) Black Poly Mounting Board - 8" (20cm) width For motors up to 15 H.P...  Garelick 4-Stroke Lite Aluminum Auxiliary Motor BracketGarelick 4-Stroke Lite Aluminum Auxiliary Motor Bracket Horsepower Rating: up to 15 Motor weight not to exceed: 115 lbs. Vertical Travel (based on transom angle being perpendicular to the water): 15 1/2" Mounting Pad: poly Mounting board... Auxiliary Motor Mounts and Outboard Motor BracketsAuxiliary motors often serve as a second source of power for boats and can be very useful if your main source of power goes out. They can also be used as an engine source to propel your boat in a slower manner, often referred to as trolling. These motors are frequently mounted to the bow or stern of your boat with auxiliary motor mounts. Wholesale Marine offers a wide variety of options of outboard motor brackets from leading manufacturers like Garelick , Davis , Sea Dog , and Moeller Marine . Motor Mounts and Brackets For All Types of EnginesDetermining the right type of auxiliary motor mounts will depend on the type of engine you need to mount. For a bow-mounted auxiliary motor, spring-loaded outboard motor brackets work best and provide protection from grounding. Garelick Platform Mount Auxiliary Motor Bracket is made of Stainless-Steel Hardware and is made for motors up to 15 HP. For transom mount motors, it is a good idea to have adjustable brackets that will allow for different heights and angles to ensure that the motor is submerged to the right depths. The Garelick Auxiliary Outboard Motor Bracket to 7.5 HP allows the motor to swing up or down and has a 4 position height adjustment. Wholesale Marine also offers tools that make auxiliary motor maintenance and repair easier. The Garelick Outboard Motor Stand makes storing your outboard motor during winter or while making repairs easier. The Garelick Outboard Motor Carrier makes transporting your motor to and from your boat almost effortless. No matter what type of auxiliary motor you have, we have the motor mount you need to make sure your motor is secure and ready for use whenever you need it. Have questions about which auxiliary motor mounts are right for your boat, contact our team of boating experts at 877-388-2628 Monday through Friday 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM EST. Inquire about our Captain’s Club Rewards Program for additional discounts on future purchases. Subscribe to our NewsletterGet the latest updates on new products and upcoming sales Oops, something went wrong. Please try again. You are now logged in!  Outboard Motor BracketsMax. 35 HP, 10″ Lift, Aluminum . 55-0410SKU: 550410
 55-0410 Spec Sheet55-0410 hole pattern, 55-0410 owner's manual, max. 35 hp, 16″ lift, aluminum 55-0416. SKU: 550416
55-0416 Spec Sheet55-0416 hole pattern, 55-0416 owner's manual , max. 15 hp, 10″ lift, aluminum 55-0407al. SKU: 550407AL Adjustable outboard motor bracket is designed for 2- and 4-stroke motors up to 15 HP or 132 lbs. Constructed of hard-coat anodized aluminum and hand adjustable with the turn of a knob. Stainless steel torsion springs counterbalance the motor weight making adjustments a breeze. 10″ of travel and 5 vertical running positions let you fine tune the motor height for optimal performance. Meets ABYC Standards. (Do not use without Panther 55-0415 safety cable—included.) 55-0407AL Spec Sheet55407al hole pattern, 55-0407al owner's manual, max. 15 hp 4-stroke & 20 hp 2-stroke, 11″ lift, stainless steel 55-0408ss. SKU: 550408SS Adjustable Stainless Steel outboard motor bracket. Works with 4-Stroke motors up to 15hp or 2-Stroke motors up to 20hp, max weight 132lbs. Twist-knob Safety Locks provide increased torque rating while helping secure bracket in place. Built extra-tough and extra-wide for secondary, higher-torque, four-stroke engines. Motor’s weight is counterbalanced by heavy-duty stainless steel torsion springs for easy lifting. The 55-0408SS boasts a 2″ thick, weatherproof and maintenance-free polypropylene mounting board along with aircraft-type stainless steel hardware. Four-position lock bar and 11″ of travel allow for a better range of trim adjustment letting you fine-tune motor height for optimal performance. Meets ABYC Standards. (Do not use without Panther 55-0415 safety cable—included.) Rated for long or short shaft engines. Setback: 8 3/4″ in the up position and 14″ in the down position  55-0408SS Spec Sheet55-0408ss hole pattern, 55-0408ss owner's manual, max. 20 hp, 11″ lift, aluminum 55-0021. SKU: 550021
Do not use with 4 stroke engine.  55-0021 Spec Sheet55-0021 hole pattern, 550021 owner's manual, max. 12 hp, 14″ lift, aluminum 55-0012. SKU: 550012
Not to be used with 4 stroke engines.  55-0012 Spec Sheet55-0012 hole pattern, 55-0012 owner's manual, max. 10 hp, 14″ lift, stainless steel 55-0010. SKU: 550010
Do not use with 4 stroke engine. Use safety cable.  55-0010 Spec Sheet55-0010 owner's manual, swim platform outboard motor bracket. SKU: 550030
 55-0030 Spec Sheet55-0030 hole pattern, 55-0030 owner's manual, pontoon kicker motor bracket kit. SKU: 550065 Our Pontoon Kicker Motor Bracket Kit makes what has long been a difficult installation a breeze. The kit contains the new Adapter Bracket (55-0060) plus the new Swim Platform Bracket (55-0030) with all mounting hardware included. The Adapter Bracket mounts to the pontoon frame rails. Pontoon boats become more popular every year, and we receive many requests for a solution to mount a kicker motor for trolling or backup. Rated for auxiliary motors up to 20 HP. 55-0060 Adapter Bracket Only  55-0060 Owner's ManualFixed-mount, 4-stroke outboard motor bracket. SKU: 550028
 55-0028 Spec SheetOutboard safety cable ss. SKU: 550415
(All Panther 4-stroke brackets come with Panther safety cable.)  Privacy Overview[ Placeholder content for popup link ] WordPress Download Manager - Best Download Management Plugin Call us Now!
Armstrong Outboard Brackets
 Armstrong Positive Flotation Outboard Brackets are the finest outboard mounting systems in the industry…setting the standard for outboard propulsion worldwide. Advantages of Armstrong Brackets
Improving the performance, mileage, deckspace, safety and seaworthiness of your vessel.Feel the performance benefits of armstrong brackets. 
Bracket Performance Test VideoArmstrong Brackets are custom made brackets to fit almost any vessel. Please fill in your quote request form now for more information. Armstrong Brackets in Action Contact Us TodayPrivacy overview. 
Outboard Motor Brackets and Jack Plates
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Shop the best selection of outboard motor brackets and carriers from West Marine including brackets, lifts, components and more. Visit for reviews and deals!
Hi, am replacing my older, flimsy aluminum motor mount and 5 hp pull start Honda outboard with a new mount and a larger / heavier 8 hp electric start outboard. I have looked hard for a suitable mount for this heavier motor and found a Catalina Direct 3 spring or a Panther Marine tech mount that...
Spartan Outboard Motor Mount. Spartan's Outboard Motor Mount is made of cast bronze and heavy hardwood to provide a rugged, dependable method of mounting an outboard up to 6 HP on the stern of sailboats with an afterdeck of eight inches (8") or more. The Assembly consists of two parts; the Deck Mounting Plate and the Motor mount Bracket.
The most common form of auxiliary propulsion for small sailboats is the outboard motor. On some boats, it is mounted in a well forward of the transom. Such arrangements conceal and protect the motor but may not allow it to be tilted up to get the prop out of the water when sailing. More common, perhaps is the mounting of a bracket on the transom. These generally have two positions—up and ...
An outboard motor bracket is required to mount an engine to your sailboat's transom. The size of the bracket will depend on the weight of the engine. The bracket is mounted to the transom using bolts and a special adhesive. The easiest way to mount an outboard to your boat will be to take it out of the water first!
Buy Marinebaby Boat Outboard Motor Bracket, Aluminum Boat Engine Support 20 HP: Outboard Motor Brackets - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Do you have a heavy four-stroke outboard motor on your sailboat? Is it a chore to raise and lower with your current motor mount? Maybe you have a back injury that makes lifting a risky behavior. What about your first mate, can they raise and lower the motor if they need to? All these are good reasons to consider whether your current motor mount is adequate for your needs.
Adjustable outboard motor bracket is designed for 2- and 4-stroke motors up to 15 HP or 132 lbs. Constructed of hard-coat anodized aluminum and hand adjustable with the turn of a knob.
For quality auxiliary motor mounts and outboard motor brackets for your boat, shop at Wholesale Marine. Order today! Fast, free shipping available.
For over 30 years Panther trim and tilts, Outboard motor brackets, and PRO series oil extractors have been top provider throughout the United States and around the world.
SKU: 550021. The adjustable outboard motor bracket is designed for motors up to 20HP or 115 lbs max weight. Heavy duty, light weight aluminum is designed for fresh water use on both power boats and sail boats. Manual operation means no power is required to raise and lower your auxiliary outboard motor. Spring loaded (11″ of travel with 5 ...
You'll feel the benefit of the added buoyancy from our Positive Flotation Brackets under the most demanding conditions. Whether backing down on a big fish in open water, loading up your boat for a weekend dive trip or just holding your own in a following sea, Armstrong Brackets improve the performance, usability, safety and seaworthiness of your vessel.
Will hold up to a 20 hp (2 cycle) outboard motor and features safety chain holes. Does not include mounting fasteners. The use of a safety chain or cable is recommended on all motor brackets. Engine weight limit: 110 lbs.", Base SKU:354-371590. In Stock:No. Price: $115.56.
Outboard Motor Brackets. Marine Grade Plastic, Starboard, and Stainless Steel. Safe and secure rail mounting of outboard motors up to 120 pounds.
Five Oceans Rail Mount Outboard Motor Bracket, Up to 80 Lb Outboard Motors, Fits Rails Up to 1", White UV-Stabilized Polypropylene, Storage for Dinghy, Tenders and Small Boat Outboards - FO1586
Learn how to choose the best outboard motor for your sailboat based on boat size, weight, location and purpose. Compare different types of engines, propellers and shafts and their advantages and disadvantages.
WEST MARINE Dual-Mount Heavy Duty Adjustable Transom Bracket. Protect your outboard motor and transom against road shock and vibration with this support strut. This heavy duty anodized aluminum universal support transom saver adjusts from 29"-39". The durable rubber V-Chock supports and stabilizies the lower unit while in transport.
Outboard motor mount for boats and outboard engine bracket or boat engine mounts and brackets to mount outboard engines on to a boat or transom or swim platform.
Sep 4, 2015. #1. I built a wooden mount for the 6 HP outboard based on the dimensions of the fold down mount that was originally designed for the boat. The original fold down piece was lost, so I made a template from the opening where the original piece fit when folded up out of use. The problem with the original design was the screws used to ...
Five Oceans Rail Mount Outboard Motor Bracket, Up to 80 Lb Outboard Motors, Fits Rails Up to 1", White UV-Stabilized Polypropylene, Storage for Dinghy, Tenders and Small Boat Outboards - FO1586. 107. $6390. FREE delivery Fri, Jun 28. Or fastest delivery Sat, Jun 22. Small Business.
Shop WEST MARINE Rail-Mount Outboard Bracket at West Marine. Visit for prices, reviews, deals and more!