sailboat rudder and tiller

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Introduction: How to Build a Sailboat Rudder From Scratch

Step 1: Previous Rudder

Step 2: Rebuild

Step 3: Sanding

Step 4: Fiberglass Layup

Step 5: First Layer and Sanding

Step 6: Additional Layers and Difficult Spots

Step 7: Notes of Caution

Step 8: Hardware Holes

Step 9: Painting

Step 10: The End!

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Complete OEM rudder, tiller and gudgeon assembly for Snark and Sunflower

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Sailboat Rudders 

The primary purpose of sailboat rudders is of course to give the helmsman the ability to steer the boat, but a well-designed one will also provide hydrodynamic lift to windward, in the same manner as does the keel.

Placing sailboat rudders into distinct categories is fairly straight forward - they're either:

• Outboard or inboard rudders, which can be
• Unbalanced, balanced or semi-balanced, and be
• Keel-hung, skeg-hung, transom-hung or spade rudders.

Take a stroll around any fair-sized boatyard during the lay-up season and you'll see examples of most of them...

Inboard & Outboard Sailboat Rudders

If the rudderstock passes through the underside of a boat's hull, it's an inboard rudder. Conversely, if it doesn't, it's an outboard rudder.

Most outboard rudders are turned by a tiller as there's no rudderstock to which a wheel-steering quadrant can be mounted.

The two rudders shown below are quite different examples of outboard rudders.

Fig 1 shows an example of a keel-hung outboard rudder that is seldom seen on today's cruising boats.

Outboard rudders like the one in Fig 2 can be easily removed for service or repair with the vessel afloat. You might struggle with trying to do that with the 'barn door' of a rudder in Fig 1 though!

Examples of inboard rudders can be seen in Figs 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 9.

Unbalanced Rudders

This unbalanced rudder is supported by a full-length skeg.

It is unbalanced because the entirety of the rudder is aft of its axis, the axis being on the centreline of the rudderstock.

When turned, the full force of the water flowing past the skeg acts on one side of the rudder - a fact that will be very much apparent to the helmsman, particularly on a tiller-steered boat.

The rudder shown here is said to be balanced because part of it is forward of its axis. As the rudder is turned, the force exerted by the water flow acting on the forward part partially counteracts the force applied to the area of the rudder that is aft of the axis. This reduces the load on the tiller and makes life easier for the helmsman.

The rudder shown here is supported by a half-length skeg. The upper part of the rudder (aft of the skeg) is unbalanced. However, the section of the rudder below the skeg is balanced by the part of the rudder projecting forward of its axis. The helm loads will be lessened as a result.  Hence this type of rudder is said to be semi-balanced.

Keel-hung rudders are often seen on heavy-displacement, long-keel boats of yesteryear. This one's on a Nicholson 32 from the 1960's. Whilst the propellor is well protected, the propwash from it acts on only a small area of the rudder which, combined with the massive displacement and full-length keel, makes close-quarters manoeuvring under power something of a hit-and-miss affair.

Transom-hung rudders are attached to the boat by hinging mechanisms known as Pintles and Gudgeons. Pintles always incorporate a pin, whereas Gudgeons always have a hole for a pin.  Usually, Pintles are attached to the rudder and Gudgeons are attached to the transom - but not always. The example shown here (on a Sadler 25) is something of a hybrid, incorporating a full length skeg to provide additional security.

From a hydrodynamic point of view, the Spade Rudder is most efficient and is becoming the norm on modern sailboats. The smaller the gap between the rudder and the hull, the greater the end-plate effect provided by the hull. But being a cantilever with no support along its leading edge, unless it's properly designed and engineered, robustness may be an issue.

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Boat Rudders and Tillers

Get your bow pointed in the right direction with boat rudders and marine tillers from Great Lakes Skipper's huge inventory of discount new and replacement boat parts. Check out our dozens of rudders, boat ski fins, rudder stuffing boxes, and tillers from Cruisers Yachts, Honda, MasterCraft, Teleflex, Centurion, Larson, Malibu, Volvo, Sea Ray, Tracker, and other top boat companies. Check back frequently - if we don't have what you need today, we might have it tomorrow. Thanks for stopping by!

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Mahogany and White Ash Sailboat Tiller (A)

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Product Description

World-class laminated tiller for your sailboat. Our tillers are built in-house from top quality wood selected for its strength and beauty. Eight strips of laminated African mahogany and white ash are glued in our proprietary molds to produce tillers for specific boat models. Each tiller is coated with a marine grade spar varnish. The butt end dimensions are 2"H X 1 1/2"W. The most common tiller styles are listed in the image above. Below are the over all tiller lengths to accommodate the type of tiller you would prefer in your cockpit. Style A - 43 1/2" overall length Style B - 47" overall length Style C - 44" overall length Style D - 36" overall length 1 3/4"Hx1 1/2"W Style E - 47" overall length Style F - 47" overall length Style G - 44 1/2" overall length

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What is a Tiller on a Boat?

Table of Contents

Last Updated on February 24, 2022 by Boatsetter Team

A tiller is a lever that is attached to the rudder and is used to turn a boat. Tillers are used on power and sailboats, and a tiller and rudder combination is the simplest way to steer a boat.

Or, the steering system can be very complex, with multiple rudders and steering components that must be aligned to work correctly. These more complicated steering systems can be attached to a tiller or wheel. Even with multiple rudders, some boats use tillers, some don’t, and a select few offer both.

Using a tiller is backward from using a steering wheel and takes a bit of getting used to. The steering wheel is turned in the direction you want to go. However, you push a tiller the opposite of the direction you want to take.

Whether sailing an eight-foot pram or an eighty-foot schooner, your boat will have a rudder. The difference between the two is how they turn that rudder. The pram will use a tiller. The schooner, however, will likely use a very large wheel to set its course.

What is the difference between a rudder and a tiller?

The rudder of a boat protrudes into the water from where it hangs on the transom , or it can be placed under a boat. On the other hand, the tiller is the lever one moves from side to side, making the rudder turn.

A rudder is a blade in the vertical position, and it acts as a foil. Rudders can be constructed from wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or carbon fiber. As water passes over the rudder, its position determines the course of the boat. The tiller is a lever that you use to turn the rudder to steer a boat.

On many power and sailboats, the rudder(s) are out of sight beneath the hull . For this type of design, the tiller is fitted to a post. The post is attached to the rudder, and it is fitted under the boat.

When steering with a tiller, it is moved opposite of the direction you want to go. It doesn’t take long to grow accustomed to using a tiller, and you have already used one if you have ever used an outboard motor that is so equipped.

Where is a tiller on a boat?

It can be to the rear of the boat (astern), or it can be forward of that location and be fitted to a pipe that comes through the boat’s decking. Wherever it is located, its length and fittings (cleats, lines, and self-steering system attachments) are different from boat to boat.

What remains the same is that the tiller is what you use to steer the boat when so equipped. Tillers are often seen on boats less than 30 feet in length and predominately on sailboats. However, even some powerboats use a tiller for steering, and they are still used on many fishing and pleasure boats.

A tiller is chosen over a wheel for steering a boat because it is simpler and easier to repair if it breaks. In addition, the components of a steering system add weight to a boat and can be complicated.

A few newer style boats, such as sailing and ocean kayaks, use foot pedals attached to pulleys that lead to the rudder and move it side to side. This type of system works well on some boats but not on others.

Small outboard motors have a tiller.

Small outboard motors have a tiller attached to them to turn the motor and control the engine’s speed. These are usually seen on outboard motors that are 15 horsepower and below. However, they even offer tiller extensions for use on some boats.

Although they lack a rudder, the principle is the same, and the motor’s thrust takes its place. Outboard tillers house the throttle on many models, and others offer more features than a throttle alone.

A boat’s steering system

The most rudimentary steering system for a boat is a paddle. When wielded by someone with skill, paddling is very effective. Next up are oars for propulsion and steering, and again, a person skilled with oars can spin a boat within its own length.

On up the evolutionary trend of boat design came the long oar, strapped to the stern of large craft and used to steer. That was an unwieldy arrangement, and the designers forged on until they came upon rudder after decades of messing about with paddles as rudders.

The affixed rudder and tiller combination came on the scene around the 1st century. Voila, the tiller, was born and was the primary method of steering a boat until someone developed a pulley system attached to the rudder with rope or steel cable.

Even today, with modern wheel steering systems, some world sailors prefer the simplicity of a tiller, even on large sailing vessels. It is more straightforward, not as prone to problems, and is relatively easy to repair. Tillers can be made of wood, aluminum, carbon fiber, or almost any other stiff, durable material. You can fit a tiller with extensions, tiller pins, and attachments for self-steering systems.

What is a tiller pin used for?

Tiller pins are metal pins that allow one to detach the tiller from the head of the rudder very easily. A tiller pin also allows the tiller to hinge upward. This will enable you to store it out of the way when a boat is moored.

Other than sailboats, and some powerboats, tillers are used on narrowboats. A narrowboat is a canal boat that is used predominately in Europe. Most of them use rudders with which to steer, to which a tiller or tiller bar is attached.

The tiller pin on a narrowboat is often a decorative metal piece with a specific purpose. It performs the same task as it does on dinghies and creates a hinge point that allows the tiller to be bent back 180 degrees so that it is out of the way of the cockpit when moored.

What is a Norwegian tiller?

The Norwegian tiller is but another idea that facilitates steering a sailboat. Due to the design of a boat, tillers have been crafted to overcome fitment on double-ended sailboats and on boats whose rigging lies in the path of where a tiller generally resides.

Thus, the Norwegian tiller is placed at a right angle to the rudder instead of aligning with it. The tiller is then fitted with a stick with which you push or pull the tiller to steer.

Methods of steering a boat have evolved; however, some of the old ways of doing things have been proven to work well. For example, rudders and tillers may be more high-tech than 50 years ago, but they still serve the same purpose; they are used to steer a boat.

Learning the Ropes of Boating

Whether you’re a novice boater or have been around them for decades, boat designs are continually evolving, and the evolution makes them more costly. So let’s face it, boating is expensive, and the best way to learn if you like to sail, fish, or even go boating is to get on the water.

At Boatsetter, a local fleet of boats awaits your adventures. The fleet is comprised of sailboats, fishing boats, ski boats, yachts, and houseboats . They offer you endless opportunities to find what boating niche suits your fancy. So, no matter where you live, finding a boat to sail, or one with which to chase a prized bass, there’s likely a Boatsetter boat near you.

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What is a Sailboat Rudder?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A sailboat rudder steers the boat. A rudder is a hinged fin or blade mounted on the stern of the vessel that turns side to side, and it's controlled by a tiller or a helm.

A rudder is one of the primary controls of a sailboat. When the boat moves forward through the water, the rudder causes friction on one side and changes the direction of the boat. Rudders are controlled by moving a tiller side to side or by a helm and a complex linkage system. Rudders are delicate and sometimes flush with and protected by the keel.

Table of contents

Identifying the Rudder

Rudders are connected to the sailboat using a hinge or a shaft. The rudder is always located in the water behind the boat, but some rudders have part of their structure exposed above the waterline. Rudders that aren't visible above the waterline are usually underneath the stern and controlled by a vertical shaft that descends through the bottom of the boat.

Rudder Design

Rudder design varies widely between boats. Some vessels have large, ornate rudders that are exposed above the waterline. Large rudders are common on catboats, canoe yawls, and other traditional designs.

Many modern boats use small, blade-like rudders that are hidden from view. The size of a rudder doesn't necessarily correlate with its effectiveness, but an improperly sized rudder can cause significant issues.

How Does a Sailboat Rudder Work?

Sailboat rudders are simple devices. Rudders are essentially deflectors, as they deflect water to port or starboard as the boat moves along. When the rudder is amidships or in the middle and aligned with the keel, the boat goes straight. Rudders also help keep the boat on a straight track as they increase the area of water moving down the length of the boat.

Rudders only work when the boat is moving. If there's no moving water to deflect, the rudder can do little to direct the vessel. Rudders also don't work when the boat is blown sideways. Maneuvering is only possible when the boat is moving forward.

Can a Sailboat Rudder Steer in Reverse?

But what about moving in reverse? Rudders can be used to steer the boat in reverse, but they're significantly less effective when pushed backward through the water. The distance required to make a turn in reverse is usually much higher than when moving forward, and steering input is less precise. In some cases, sailboat rudders can break off when moving too quickly in reverse.

Sailboat Steering Characteristics

Sailboats steer much differently than cars, and there aren't any brakes to slow down with. Sailboats tend to steer from the middle; picture a fan blade spinning slowly on a motor, and you'll get the picture. As a result, steering too aggressively in tight quarters can cause your bow or stern to hit something that's beside you.

Speed is generally helpful for steering, especially when you want to make precise movements quickly. However, speed is a double-edged sword, as slight rudder movement at speed can dramatically and rapidly alter the course of the boat. But remember, you can't steer without moving forward.

Tiller Steering

Sailboat rudders are often controlled by a tiller. Tillers are a long rod connected to the rudder. Sailors move the rod side to side from the cockpit to turn the rudder directly. Tillers are the simplest form or rudder control, and they're highly reliable. Tillers point in the opposite direction that the boat will travel.

Tiller steering is found most often on small boats. This is because the forces involved in steering boats of greater size can be too difficult to manage with a tiller. That said, there are some relatively large boats with cockpit configurations that allow for the use of a tiller. Sailboats with tillers range in size between 10 feet and 30 feet.

Benefits of a Tiller

Tillers have numerous benefits. Tillers offer precise control of the boat because they connect the rudder directly to the person steering the boat. Additionally, tillers are extremely simple and robust. Many blue water sailors prefer tiller steering, as it's difficult to break and easy to repair.

Over the years, sailors have developed many creative ways to make tillers more useful. Many boats feature tiller extensions that allow the sailor to steer from further away. Tillers also respond much faster than helms, which is great for racing and pushing the limits of the boat.

Tiller Self-Steering

Bluewater sailors developed an extremely useful way to multitask onboard a tiller-equipped sailboat. Self-steering is possible on vessels with a tiller, and no electronics or complex machines are necessary. Self-steering involves connecting the jib sheet to a series of pulleys and opposing bungee cord (or surgical tubing).

As the tension on the jib increases, it'll tighten the jib sheet and pull the tiller and change the course of the boat. The opposite is also true. This keeps the boat at the right angle to the wind and is useful for solo travel. GPS-guided self-steering equipment is also available for tiller-equipped sailboats, and it's relatively easy to install.

Helm Steering

A helm is essentially a large nautical steering wheel. Steering a boat with a helm is somewhat similar to driving a car, as the boat moves in the direction that you steer (unlike a tiller, which moves in the opposite direction). Sailboats equipped with tillers are usually larger. Some larger sailboats have two helms placed side-by-side in the cockpit.

The helm consists of a steering wheel and a pedestal which is mounted to the deck. Helm pedestals often feature a marine compass to make navigation possible from one location. Engine controls are often located nearby as well. Sailboat helms are often large in diameter, sometimes 30 inches or more. Large wheels make steering easy and precise.

Helm-equipped sailboats are generally 30-feet long and larger. Tillers are excellent for large boats, as they enable precise movement and require little effort to use. This is especially important at speed when the force of water rushing by a large rudder can be too difficult to overcome with a tiller.

The helm is connected to the rudder mechanically or hydraulically. Some high-end sailboats incorporate power steering, but this is unusual on most consumer vessels. Mechanical helm linkage typically utilizes a cable (or multiple cables and pulleys) that stretches from the helm to the rudder.

Hydraulic Rudder Control

Most sailboat helms are hydraulic. These helms use pressurized hydraulic fluid and small diameter lines to replicate the wheel movements at the rudder. Hydraulic systems often include a fluid reservoir and a pressure cylinder, along with mechanical parts to transfer the force at the wheel and the rudder.

Rudder Maintenance

Rudder maintenance is fairly simple and should be performed regularly. As with the hull, rudders are an ideal habitat for all kinds of unwelcome marine life. Within a year or less, your rudder can be completely encapsulated in barnacles, plants, and other organisms. Marine growth will negatively impact your speed and steering, so it must be scraped off regularly.

Maintaining the steering system is also essential. Tillers are relatively easy to maintain, as they use very few moving parts. Look for grease fittings, and make sure your tiller and rudder are fastened tightly. Helms are more complex, and the hydraulic system should be inspected, repaired, and topped off if necessary.

What to Do if the Rudder is Damaged

Rudder damage is a sailor's worst nightmare, and it's akin to a hole in the hull or losing a mast. So what should you do if your rudder gets damaged or breaks off? First, call for help! But if help isn't available, there are a few makeshift ways to steer the boat without the rudder.

If you have an outboard motor, use it to steer. If not, then a run-of-the-mill rowboat oar makes an excellent rudder substitute. Simply lash the oar to the back of the boat with the end in the water, and use it like a tiller. It's not ideal, but it worked for the Romans, and it should work for you. Some sailors have fashioned makeshift rudders from interior cabinet doors, hatches, scrap metal, and whatever else is on hand.

Losing a rudder is a worst-case-scenario, and it doesn't often happen when sailors keep up with maintenance and stay away from dangerous water. Preventative maintenance and proper navigation are the best ways to keep your rudder in good shape. 

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

All About the Rudder on a Sailboat

The rudder on a sailboat is one of those important parts that often gets overlooked. It’s hidden underwater most of the time and usually performs as expected when we ask something of it.

But when was the last time you seriously considered your sailboat rudder? Do you have a plan if it fails? Here’s a look at various designs of sail rudder, along with the basics of how it works and why it’s there.

Table of Contents

How are sailboat rudders different than keels, how does the rudder work, wheel steering vs. tiller steering, full keel rudder sailboat, skeg-hung rudders, spade rudder, variations on designs, emergency outboard rudder options, looking to sail into the sunset grab the wheel, steer your sail boat rudder, and get out there, sail boat rudder faqs.

What Is a Boat Rudder?

The rudder is the underwater part of the boat that helps it turn and change direction. It’s mounted on the rear of the boat. When the wheel or tiller in the cockpit is turned, the rudder moves to one side or another. That, in turn, moves the boat’s bow left or right.

When it comes to sailing, rudders also offer a counterbalance to the underwater resistance caused by the keel. This enables the boat to sail in a straight line instead of just spinning around the keel.

Sailboat hull designs vary widely when you view them out of the water. But while the actual shape and sizes change, they all have two underwater features that enable them to sail–a rudder and a keel.

The rudder is mounted at the back of the boat and controls the boat’s heading or direction as indicated by the compass .

The keel is mounted around the center of the boat. Its job is to provide a counterbalance to the sails. In other words, as the wind presses on the sails, the weight of the ballast in the keel and the water pressure on the sides of the keel keeps the boat upright and stable.

When sailing, the keel makes a dynamic force as water moves over it. This force counters the leeway made by air pressure on the sails and enables the boat to sail windward instead of only blowing downwind like a leaf on the surface.

The rudder is a fundamental feature of all boats. Early sailing vessels used a simple steering oar to get the job done. Over the years, this morphed into the rudder we know today.

However, thinking about a rudder in terms of a steering oar is still useful in understanding its operation. All it is is an underwater panel that the helmsperson can control. You can maintain a course by trailing the oar behind the boat while sailing. You can also change the boat’s heading by moving it to one side or the other.

The rudders on modern sailboats are a little slicker than simple oars, of course. They are permanently mounted and designed for maximum effectiveness and efficiency.

But their operating principle is much the same. Rudders work by controlling the way water that flows over them. When they move to one side, the water’s flow rate increases on the side opposite the turn. This faster water makes less pressure and results in a lifting force. That pulls the stern in the direction opposite the turn, moving the bow into the turn.

Nearly all boats have a rudder that works exactly the same. From 1,000-foot-long oil tankers to tiny 8-foot sailing dinghies, a rudder is a rudder. The only boats that don’t need one are powered by oars or have an engine whose thrust serves the same purpose, as is the case with an outboard motor.

Operating the Rudder on a Sailboat

Rudders are operated in one of two ways–with a wheel or a tiller. The position where the rudder is operated is called the helm of a boat .

Ever wonder, “ What is the steering wheel called on a boat ?” Boat wheels come in all shapes and sizes, but they work a lot like the wheel in an automobile. Turn it one way, and the boat turns that way by turning the rudder.

A mechanically simpler method is the tiller. You’ll find tiller steering on small sailboats and dinghies. Some small outboard powerboats also have tiller steering. Instead of a wheel, the tiller is a long pole extending forward from the rudder shaft’s top. The helmsperson moves the tiller to the port or starboard, and the bow moves in the opposite direction. It sounds much more complicated on paper than it is in reality.

Even large sailboats will often be equipped with an emergency tiller. It can be attached quickly to the rudder shaft if any of the fancy linkages that make the wheel work should fail.

Various Sail Boat Rudder Designs

Now, let’s look at the various types of rudders you might see if you took a virtual walk around a boatyard. Since rudders are mostly underwater on the boat’s hull, it’s impossible to compare designs when boats are in the water.

Keep in mind that these rudders work the same way and achieve the same results. Designs may have their pluses and minuses, but from the point of view of the helmsperson, the differences are negligible. The overall controllability and stability of the boat are designed from many factors, and the type of rudder it has is only one of those.

You’ll notice that rudder design is closely tied to keel design. These two underwater features work together to give the boat the sailing characteristics the designer intended.

The classic, robust offshore sailboat is designed with a full keel that runs from stem to stern. With this sort of underwater profile, it only makes sense that the rudder would be attached to the trailing edge of that enormous keel. On inboard-powered sailboats, the propeller is usually mounted inside an opening called the aperture between the keel and rudder.

The advantages of this design are simplicity and robustness. The keel is integrated into the hull and protects the rudder’s entire length. Beyond reversing into an obstacle, anything the boat might strike would hit the keel first and would be highly unlikely to damage the rudder. Not only does the keel protect it, but it also provides a very strong connection point for it to be attached to.

Full keel boats are known for being slow, although there are modern derivatives of these designs that have no slow pokes. Their rudders are often large and effective. They may not be the most efficient design, but they are safe and full keels ride more comfortably offshore than fin-keeled boats.

Plenty of stout offshore designs sport full keel rudders. The Westsail 38s, Lord Nelsons, Cape Georges, Bristol/Falmouth Cutters, or Tayana 37s feature a full keel design.

A modified full keel, like one with a cutaway forefoot, also has a full keel-style rudder. These are more common on newer designs, like the Albergs, Bristols, Cape Dorys, Cabo Ricos, Island Packets, or the older Hallberg-Rassys.

A design progression was made from full keel boats to long-fin keelboats, and the rudder design changed with it. Designers used a skeg as the rudder became more isolated from the keel. The skeg is a fixed structure from which you can mount the rudder. This enables the rudder to look and function like a full keel rudder but is separated from the keel for better performance.

The skeg-hung rudder has a few of the same benefits as a full keel rudder. It is protected well and designed robustly. But, the cutaways in the keel provide a reduced wetted surface area and less drag underwater, resulting in improved sailing performance overall.

Larger boats featuring skeg-mounted rudders include the Valiant 40, Pacific Seacraft 34, 37, and 40, newer Hallberg-Rassys, Amels, or the Passport 40.

It’s worth noting that not all skegs protect the entire rudder. A partial skeg extends approximately half the rudder’s length, allowing designers to make a balanced rudder.

With higher-performance designs, keels have become smaller and thinner. Fin keel boats use more hydrodynamic forces instead of underwater area to counter the sail’s pressure. With the increased performance, skegs have gone the way of the dinosaurs. Nowadays, rudders are sleek, high aspect ratio spade designs that make very little drag. They can be combined with a number of different keel types, including fin, wing keels , swing keels, or bulb keels.

The common argument made against spade rudders is that they are connected to the boat by only the rudder shaft. As a result, an underwater collision can easily bend the shaft or render the rudder unusable. In addition, these rudders put a high load on the steering components, like the bearings, which are also more prone to failure than skeg or full keel designs. For these reasons, long-distance cruisers have traditionally chosen more robust designs for the best bluewater cruising sailboats .

But, on the other hand, spade rudders are very efficient. They turn the boat quickly and easily while contributing little to drag underwater.

Spade rudders are common now on any boat known for performance. All racing boats have a spade rudder, like most production boats used for club racing. Pick any modern fin keel boat from Beneteau, Jeanneau, Catalina, or Hunter, and you will find a spade rudder. Spade rudders are common on all modern cruising catamarans, from the Geminis to the Lagoons, Leopards, and Fountaine Pajots favored by cruisers and charter companies.

Here are two alternative designs you might see out on the water.

Transom-Hung or Outboard Rudders

An outboard rudder is hung off the boat’s transom and visible while the boat is in the water. Most often, this design is controlled by a tiller. They are common on small sailing dingies, where the rudder and tiller are removable for storage and transport. The rudder is mounted with a set of hardware called the pintle and gudgeon.

Most outboard rudders are found on small daysailers and dinghies. There are a few classic big-boat designs that feature a transom-hung rudder, however. For example, the Westsail 38, Alajuela, Bristol/Falmouth Cutters, Cape George 36, and some smaller Pacific Seacrafts (Dana, Flicka) have outboard rudders.

Twin Sailing Rudder Designs

A modern twist that is becoming more common on spade rudder boats is the twin sailboat rudder. Twin rudders feature two separate spade rudders mounted in a vee-shaped arrangement. So instead of having one rudder pointed down, each rudder is mounted at an angle.

Like many things that trickle down to cruising boats, the twin rudder came from high-performance racing boats. By mounting the rudders at an angle, they are more directly aligned in the water’s flow when the boat is healed over for sailing. Plus, two rudders provide some redundancy should one have a problem. The twin rudder design is favored by designers looking to make wide transom boats.

There are other, less obvious benefits of twin rudders as well. These designs are easier to control when maneuvering in reverse. They are also used on boats that can be “dried out” or left standing on their keel at low tide. These boats typically combine the twin rudders with a swing keel, like Southerly or Sirius Yachts do. Finally, twin rudders provide much better control on fast-sailing hulls when surfing downwind.

Unbalanced vs. Balanced Rudders

Rudders can be designed to be unbalanced or balanced. The difference is all in how they feel at the helm. The rudder on a bigger boat can experience a tremendous amount of force. That makes turning the wheel or tiller a big job and puts a lot of strain on the helmsperson and all of the steering components.

A balanced rudder is designed to minimize these effects and make turning easier. To accomplish this, the rudder post is mounted slightly aft of the rudder’s forward edge. As a result, when it turns, a portion of the leading edge of the rudder protrudes on the opposite side of the centerline. Water pressure on that side then helps move the rudder.

Balanced rudders are most common in spade or semi-skeg rudders.

Sail Rudder Failures

Obviously, the rudder is a pretty important part of a sailboat. Without it, the boat cannot counter the forces put into the sails and cannot steer in a straight line. It also cannot control its direction, even under power.

A rudder failure of any kind is a serious emergency at sea. Should the rudder be lost–post and all–there’s a real possibility of sinking. But assuming the leak can be stopped, coming up with a makeshift rudder is the only way you’ll be able to continue to a safe port.

Rudder preventative maintenance is some of the most important maintenance an owner can do. This includes basic things that can be done regularly, like checking for frayed wires or loose bolts in the steering linkage system. It also requires occasionally hauling the boat out of the water to inspect the rudder bearings and fiberglass structure.

Many serious offshore cruisers install systems that can work as an emergency rudder in extreme circumstances. For example, the Hydrovane wind vane system can be used as an emergency rudder. Many other wind vane systems have similar abilities. This is one reason why these systems are so popular with long-distance cruisers.

There are also many ways to jury rig a rudder. Sea stories abound with makeshift rudders from cabinet doors or chopped-up sails. Sail Magazine featured a few great ideas for rigging emergency rudders .

Understanding your sail rudder and its limitations is important in planning for serious cruising. Every experienced sailor will tell you the trick to having a good passage is anticipating problems you might have before you have them. That way, you can be prepared, take preventative measures, and hopefully never deal with those issues on the water.

What is the rudder on a sailboat?

The rudder is an underwater component that both helps the sailboat steer in a straight line when sailing and turn left or right when needed.

What is the difference between a rudder and a keel?

The rudder and the keel are parts of a sailboat mounted underwater on the hull. The rudder is used to turn the boat left or right, while the keel is fixed in place and counters the effects of the wind on the sails.

What is a rudder used for on a boat?

The rudder is the part of the boat that turns it left or right

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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Bobby's Boat Works

Bobby's Boat Works

Rudders, Dagger Boards, and Tillers.

Products and Services

In stock components.

We have many rudders, daggerboard, tillers and other items premade and ready to ship.  To see these items please use the shop button at the top of the page and navigate to the item you need for your boat.

Made to Order Components

Due to a high demand for stock items and a large backlog, we are not taking any custom orders at this time.

I built my first boat in 2005 and found the building process to be almost as much fun as being out on the water. Since that time I have built several boats, some for me and some for others.   In December 2019 I decided to buy John Owens' business of making rudders, daggerboards and tillers for several production boats. I always found that these were some of my favorite parts to make during a boat build.  The foil is such an intimate part to the performance of the boat and making one that water would flow smoothly over fascinated me.

a great reputation for quality products at a fair price and it is my intent to continue that tradition.

La Grange, Texas 78945

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(979) 250-1668

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	(001) 401-739-1140 -- (001) 401-739-1149

What is Commonly referred to as a is actually comprised of two pieces, the and the The Tiller Head is the hardware that attaches directly to the Tiller and allows for connection to the Rudder Head. The Rudder Head is the hardware that attaches to the top of the Rudder Shaft or, on smaller boats, directly to the Rudder itself. We also stock a number of items not listed here, and can fabricate Custom items as well. If you require Tiller Heads or Rudder Heads not listed here, please forward a photo or sketch of the configuration you require with details and complete dimensions.
Standard Rudder Head Assemblies are listed below, individual parts of these Assemblies are available separately. Tiller Heads are at 90 degrees to the Rudder Shaft unless otherwise noted. Keys for these Assemblies are sold separately, .
Cast Bronze Rudder Head Assembly for use with 3/4" diameter Rudder Shaft and 1 3/8" wide Tiller. Rudder Head ) fits 3/4" Shaft with a 3/16" wide key on the , and features screw for clamping it on the Shaft, and an adjustment screw for tightening the key in the keyway. Tiller Head ) fits over, and attaches to, 1 1/4" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 3/8" wide Tiller using (2) 1/4"-20 FH machine screws. Tiller Head is designed to hold Tiller at 90 degrees to the Rudder Shaft, but can swivel up from there. Cast Bronze Tiller Head is 7 7/8" long. (most) and some
Cast Bronze Rudder Head Assembly for use with 1" diameter Rudder Shaft and 1 3/4" wide Tiller. Rudder Head ) fits 1" Shaft with a 1/4" wide key on the , and features screw for clamping it on the Shaft, and an adjustment screw for tightening the key in the keyway. Tiller Head ) fits over, and attaches to, 1 3/4" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 3/4" wide Tiller using (3) 5/16" bolts and nuts, or solid Bronze rivets. Tiller Head is designed to hold Tiller at 90 degrees to the Rudder Shaft, but can swivel up from there. Cast Bronze Tiller Head is 11" long.
Cast Bronze Rudder Head Assembly for use with 1 1/8" diameter Rudder Shaft and 1 3/4" wide Tiller. Rudder Head ) fits 1 1/8" Shaft with a 1/4" wide key on the , and features screw for clamping it on the Shaft, and an adjustment screw for tightening the key in the keyway. Tiller Head ) fits over, and attaches to, 1 3/4" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 3/4" wide Tiller using (3) 5/16" bolts and nuts, or solid Bronze rivets. Tiller Head is designed to hold Tiller at 90 degrees to the Rudder Shaft, but can swivel up from there. Cast Bronze Tiller Head is 11" long.
Cast Bronze Rudder Head Assembly for use with 1 1/4" diameter Rudder Shaft and 1 3/4" wide Tiller. Rudder Head ) fits 1 1/4" Shaft with a 1/4" wide key on the , and features screw for clamping it on the Shaft, and an adjustment screw for tightening the key in the keyway. Tiller Head ) fits over, and attaches to, 1 3/4" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 3/4" wide Tiller using (3) 5/16" bolts and nuts, or solid Bronze rivets. Tiller Head is designed to hold Tiller at 90 degrees to the Rudder Shaft, but can swivel up from there. Cast Bronze Tiller Head is 11" long.
Rudder Heads are listed by the diameter (Outside Diameter) of the Rudder Shaft to which they attach. Keys for these Rudder Heads are sold separately, .
Cast Bronze Rudder Head fits 3/4" Rudder Shaft with a 3/16" wide key on the , and features 1/4" bolt for clamping it to the Shaft, as well as an adjustment screw for tightening the key into the keyway. Rudder Head is (maximum) 1 1/4" wide with 3/8" hole on aft side for Tiller Head bolt, and fits over the top 2 1/8" of Rudder Shaft. Frequently used with Bronze Tiller Head ) for 1 3/8" wide Tiller.
Cast Bronze Rudder Head fits 1" Rudder Shaft with a 1/4" wide key on the , and features 5/16" bolt for clamping it to the Shaft, as well as an adjustment screw for tightening the key into the keyway. Rudder Head is (maximum) 1 3/4" wide with 3/8" hole on aft side for Tiller Head bolt, and fits over the top 2 1/4" of Rudder Shaft. Frequently used with Bronze Tiller Head ) for 1 3/4" wide Tiller.
Cast Bronze Rudder Head fits 1 1/8" Rudder Shaft with a 1/4" wide key on the , and features 5/16" bolt for clamping it to the Shaft, as well as an adjustment screw for tightening the key into the keyway. Rudder Head is (maximum) 1 3/4" wide with 3/8" hole on aft side for Tiller Head bolt, and fits over the top 2 1/4" of Rudder Shaft. Frequently used with Bronze Tiller Head ) for 1 3/4" wide Tiller.
Cast Bronze Rudder Head fits 1 1/4" Rudder Shaft with a 1/4" wide key on the , and features 5/16" bolt for clamping it to the Shaft, as well as an adjustment screw for tightening the key into the keyway. Rudder Head is (maximum) 1 3/4" wide with 3/8" hole on aft side for Tiller Head bolt, and fits over the top 2 1/4" of Rudder Shaft. Frequently used with Bronze Tiller Head ) for 1 3/4" wide Tiller.
Special cast Aluminum Rudder Head is designed to be Aluminum Rudder Shaft. For use with 2 3/8" OD x 1 7/8" ID Aluminum Rudder Shaft, unit has 1 1/4" wide projection with 1/2" hole for Tiller Head attachment. Cast Aluminum Rudder Head is (maximum) 2 3/8" diameter x 4 3/4" long, and projects 2 3/4" beyond end of Rudder Shaft. Normally used with Bronze Tiller Head, and SS bolt assembly.
Square Keys are used with a variety of Rudder Heads to lock them to the Rudder Shaft, and are listed here by size. . Stainless Steel Keys are recommended only when both the Rudder Head and Shaft are Stainless.
Rudder Head Key is 3/16" square x 2 1/4" long. Used with a variety of Rudder Heads including the , above.
Rudder Head Key is 3/16" square x 2" long.
Rudder Head Key is 1/4" square x 2 1/4" long. Used with a variety of Rudder Heads including the , , and , above.
Rudder Head Key is 1/4" square x 2" long.
Rudder Head Key is 5/16" square x 2 1/2" long.
Rudder Head Key is 5/16" square x 2 1/2" long.
Rudder Head Key is 3/8" square x 3" long.
Rudder Head Key is 3/8" square x 3" long.
Standard Tiller Heads are listed by the width of the Rudder Head to which they attach.
Bronze Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 1 1/4" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 3/8" wide Tiller using (2) 1/4"-20 FH machine screws. Cast Bronze Tiller Head is 7 7/8" long x 1 7/8" wide x (maximum) 7/8" high. As used on a variety of boats including (most) and some
Bronze Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, cast aluminum 1 1/4" wide Rudder Head, with special 1/2" SS bolt assembly, Unit attaches to 2" wide Tiller using (3) 5/16" bolts and nuts. Special Cast Bronze Tiller Head places Tiller at , and is (maximum) 10 1/2" long. as used on many
Stainless Steel Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 1 1/2" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 1/2" wide Tiller using (3) horizontal and (2) vertical 1/4" bolts. Formed, welded SS assembly is (maximum) 8 3/4" long x 1 7/8" wide x 2" high. As used on some O'Day 27's, and others.
Stainless Steel Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 1 9/16" wide Rudder Head (or directly to the top of the Rudder) with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 9/16" wide Tiller using (2) horizontal 1/4" bolts on 2 1/4" centers. Welded SS assembly is made from 1/4" x 1 1/4" stock, and is (maximum) 7 3/4" long x 2 1/16" wide. and others.
Bronze Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 1 3/4" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 3/4" wide Tiller using (3) 5/16" bolts and nuts, or solid Bronze rivets. Cast Bronze Tiller Head is 11" long x 2 1/2" wide x (maximum) 1 1/2" high. As used on a variety of boats including many
Stainless Steel Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 1 3/4" wide Rudder Head with 5/16" bolt, and to 1 5/16" wide Tiller using (1) 1/4" and (2) 5/16" bolts. Formed, welded SS assembly is (maximum) 8 1/2" long x 2 1/8" wide x 1 1/2" high. As used on some and others.
Stainless Steel Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 1 7/8" wide Rudder Head with 3/8" bolt, and to 1 7/8" wide Tiller using (2) 5/16" bolts. Welded SS assembly is (maximum) 11 1/2" long x 2 1/4" wide x 1 1/4" high. Central Bar is 6 1/2" from 3/8" bolt center.
Stainless Steel Tiller Head fits over, and attaches to, 2" wide Tiller w/ (5) horizontal 1/4" bolts, and to 2" wide Rudder Head w/ 3/8" bolt. Welded SS ass'y is (maximum) 12" long x 2 3/8" wide x 1 1/2" high. Cross Bar is 4 1/4" from 3/8" bolt center.

~ Back to Rudder Hardware Main Page ~

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self centering rudder/tiller?

• Thread starter RussC
• Start date Jan 13, 2019
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

In a totally unrelated post I was reading, the following bit caught my attention and made me go "huuummmm" <snip> "All boats these days are built with unbalanced rudders as sailors, especially racers, like the "feel" of it and builders also like the safety thing of it swinging back to center when unmanned." <snip> Now I've only owned 5-6 sailboats over the years, so I'm sure no expert, but I can't recall that any of them had anything resembling a "self centering" rudder. that being said.... it might be a good thing, and one worth considering working towards. I've always relied on a tiller tamer run with light tension to help hold the tiller in whatever position I leave it in, if I have to take my hands off for any reason. but the comment I mentioned got me thinking just what might have an effect on weather a rudder goes back to center.... or just swings off to one side, as mine generally does if left totally uncontrolled. Envision a car running down the hi way. the caster built into the suspension brings the wheel back to the straight ahead position by itself. so what could be done to a tiller setup to do a similar thing? the angle of the rudder as it hangs on the transom perhaps? or maybe it's actually a better thing that it does go hard over when uncontrolled, as in the case of a MOB or whatever? Thoughts?  

Why would you want that built into the design of the boat? If you fell off. the boat would keep sailing... rather than rounding up. It shouldn't be like a video game controller,  

Well two of my boats have balanced rudders and they certainly aren't self centering. My other boat (Allied Seawind 30) has a keel hung rudder. I haven't had it in the water yet but I would think it would self center when I let go of it.  

Self centering in the same way a car's steering wheels are.. All is good until there is a cross wind or a slant in the roadbed.. same with the rudder, it will stay straight except when some other force pushes it .. when sailing, the force is the sail force trying to scoot the stern over . when motoring, the torque of the propeller will do it..  

On a visit back to the US to visit family and friends, I borrowed my dad's Ford Probe. He lived in northern California, in the hills (read winding roads here) and on the first corner that damn self-centering wheel nearly killed me. I definitely did not like it in a motor vehicle and I wouldn't want it on a water vehicle either. When I turn the wheel to tack, for instance, I can let go of it and handle sheets or whatever, and it stays wherever I put it. A self-centering helm would be a really dangerous, IMO.  

Joe said: Why would you want that built into the design of the boat? If you fell off. the boat would keep sailing... rather than rounding up. It shouldn't be like a video game controller, Click to expand

Davidasailor26

From a performance perspective you don't really want the rudder to stay centered, at least not up-wind. A little bit of weather helm, requiring about 3 degrees of rudder angle to hold a straight course, enables the rudder to generate some lift. That lift adds to what the rudder does to reduce leeway. If your goal is to just be able to leave the tiller untouched the tiller tamer or an autopilot is probably the way to go.  

Davidasailor26 said: From a performance perspective you don't really want the rudder to stay centered, at least not up-wind. A little bit of weather helm, requiring about 3 degrees of rudder angle to hold a straight course, enables the rudder to generate some lift. That lift adds to what the rudder does to reduce leeway. If your goal is to just be able to leave the tiller untouched the tiller tamer or an autopilot is probably the way to go. Click to expand

The original rudder for a Tanzer 22 was an unbalanced Scimitar shape. The good news was found in sculling, that rudder was almost more effective than a motor. It could also spin the boat around quickly. The bad news was the weather helm and pressure on the helm. After a long sail one arm was always longer than the other.  

Scott T-Bird

I think you are thinking about balanced and un-balanced rudders in the wrong context. A transom hung rudder, based on it's geometry of pivoting at the inboard edge, is un-balanced. There is nothing that you can do to change that. The force that is required to steer the rudder is affected entirely by the flow across the rudder. On larger boats, there needs to be some design of the pivot point of the rudder that incorporates "balancing" simply because the forces are increased when you turn the wheel or move the tiller. Moving the pivot point on the rudder forward is causing the rudder to be increasingly unbalanced. Moving the pivot point back increases the balance (until you move it behind the balance point). Weather helm or lee helm is related to the rudder pivoting under sail pressure. It is totally unrelated. An un-balance rudder can theoretically stay "neutral" when the centered position is balanced against the forces from the sails. That's how a mechanical auto pilot works.  

Scott T-Bird said: A transom hung rudder, based on it's geometry of pivoting at the inboard edge, is un-balanced. Click to expand

A balanced rudder simply has enough of the foil forward the rudder axis center of rotation to provide some assistance with course holding. The portion forward the axis works to hold the rudder over against the effort of the aft rudder section to center. Critical on a big boat. Compare that to small boats with a vertical pintle-hung rudder - like driving an old truck. Yeah, an unbalanced rudder will center, but it won’t center the boat, you still have the keel and sail trim working to direct the boat. Balanced rudders just make the helmsman job easier, like power steering.  

Scott T-Bird said: A transom hung rudder, based on it's geometry of pivoting at the inboard edge, is un-balanced. There is nothing that you can do to change that. Click to expand

The rudder for the Hunter 707 is a beautiful shape. A classic Spitfire profile which should be a very efficient foil. Although it is backwards from what a wing or keel would look like. But is it balanced? I don't know. Does a small section of the rudder forward of the pintles make it balanced? How much forward constitutes balance? What is the definition of balanced?  

• Balanced rudder. This has to do with the location of the COE of the blade vs. the shaft. If there is a side force, can you feel it? And yes, transom hung rudders can be balanced if some of the area is under the transom or if blade is raked forward relative to the shaft. Some boats, like my first beach cat, had adjustable rake; that was a really neat feature.
• Balance related to helm angle. This relates to the amount of leeway pressure that rests on the rudder. Rake the mast aft, for example, and pressure on the rudder increases (though if the rudder is balanced you won't feel it and the boat will not round up) and helm angle increases.
• And what the OP is talking about. COG balance. If the rudder stock leans forward, the tiller tends to fall to the center and the helm is thus, self-centering at rest. However this force is tiny compared to the others and will have nothing to do with weather helm over a few knots.

Axis for balance is the vertical through the pintle’s median, floating on the waterline, 20% forward the axis is a good start. Too much an she’ll lock over. Too little and you’ll be wrestling a bear.  

RussC said: Now that you mention it, I can certainly vouch for the steering effort conversation . When I first purchased our little boat (V-17) it came with the oem rudder assy as well as an aftermarket unit. the po told me the boat was "hard to control" with the oem unit and was the reason he only used the aftermarket piece after that. well the aftermarket unit weighed a ton, and I prefer wood, so I set about testing for myself. he was right!!... when hit by a strong gust it took both feet on the opposing side of the boat and both arms to pull the tiller back . when I returned home and did some investigating it became pretty obvious what the problem was. I found no obvious reason why it was this way, and no extra "non factory" holes, but the stop bolt for the rudder forced the lower portion to sit almost 11" out from the pivot axis. View attachment 160166 I drilled a new hole for the stop which set the lower rudder perpendicular to the water line when installed on the boat, which obviously made a HUGE difference in steering effort. View attachment 160167 Now I'm wondering how it would react to being angled forward to the limit of the transom angle... huum.. I gotta try that just for my own curiosity View attachment 160168 Click to expand

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Posted 2024-07-17 10:28

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Dyer Dink Sailboat - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

Dyer Dink sailboat including sail w/stays, boom, mast, rudder/tiller and all lines. In good seaworthy condition. Interior wood needs refinishing..... mast and boom are finished and in very good...