sailboat light diagram

Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)

Last Updated by

Capt Chris German

June 15, 2022

Navigation lights on a sailboat can be confusing. If you understand the reason behind why they are the way they are however, they can make a lot more sense.

At their heart, sailboats are really just a power boat and as such must adhere to all power boat rules such as navigation lights. Other times however, a sailboat is classified in a special category. They have a set of additional lights they CAN show as an option, but are not always required to do so.

That’s about as clear as mud if you ask me and I contend that that is where the confusion about lighting a sailboat begins.

Just because you can show a light to identify yourself in times of low visibility, does not mean you have to and then we add in a little sibling rivalry between power and sail and things get downright adversarial when it comes to navigation and the night.

Table of contents

The USCG says You’re a Power Boat Whether You Like It or Not

Much to the consternation of many a sailor who has earned a commercial license to drive their sailboat, when you received your credential from the USCG it says you are a master of steam and power across the top with no mention of wind as a source of propulsion.

It is not until you read the back pages of your little red book that feels like a passport and looks like a US Sailing credential, that you will see the term “sail auxiliary”. That is because most of the time the U.S. Coast Guard knows that you are primarily reliant on your mechanical power to propel your vessel.

It's a sad thing, but the days of commercially viable sail boats are done and all but the most select few even have sails let alone use them as their primary power source. All sail boats by law are powerboats, but not all powerboats are sailboats.

Navigation Lights for a Power Boat

As a power boat, you are required to show certain lights and have been required to do so before power was even invented.

In the days of man powered vessels like the viking ships who relied on oars while in close quarters to power their vessels, they needed to show other boats, friend or foe, where they were by showing lanterns in the dark to identify themselves. As you know, it is a time honored rule among all the nations of the world both past and present, that you must avoid a collision at all costs while at sea and even the viking knew that you should not run into things.

By lighting the front and back of your boat, you could warn other boats of your presence as well as identify which way you were heading. As such there is a very specific rule in the Code of Federal Regulations Number 46 (CFR46 by common name) that spells out with detail how many, the color, the luminosity or brightness, the angle of visibility and the location of all of the lights required for navigation on every single boat, seaplane, submarine and other nondescript vessel conceived by man to date that they must show while underway in reduced visibility.

And there is no flexibility in the rules.

As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam and the stern lights shining 225 degrees dead aft. A forward facing masthead light that is white in color shall shine forward to comply with the directive that all vessels must carry an all around white light. For more read here .

As you can see, there isn’t much wiggle room when it comes to lights that must be shown.

Sailboats get a little flexibility with lights

Sailboats however, are a little different when they are in fact sailboats, which is only when you are entirely reliant on the wind for power and in no way reliant on any mechanical or manual means of propulsion. And for good reason.

Back in the day when men were men and sailboats were wooden, fire was a major concern. Sails were coated with wax and other flammable substances and the wood on boats was saturated with oils and grease. Even the ropes were plant materials saturated with oils to keep them pliable and strong.

Add those highly flammable substances to a parching environment like the sea and you had what was essentially a giant floating tinderbox.

Then tell that giant floating tinderbox that they need to identify themselves to the world at large at night using oil lamps with flames because batteries and lights were not invented yet. It didn't take very long or very many ships burning to the water line for the Governments to say to the sailboats, you get to do things a little different.

As such, sailboats are given special dispensation when it comes to lights aloft. They don't have to show an all around white light in their rigging because no one wanted to set their rig on fire with oil lamps 60 feet up in their rig.

However, when a sailboat takes their sails down such as when they are powered or at anchor, they must resume the display of an all around white light or lights aloft. That became a real challenge with aluminum masts and the disappearance of rat lines on the shrouds because there was no easy way to climb the rig and check the bulbs up the mast on a regular basis.

Red over Green Sailing Machine

I have no idea where the history of this particular light comes from, but if you ever take a deck exam with the USCG, you better remember this mnemonic. An all around red light over an all around green may be displayed on a vessel during times of reduced visibility to indicate that a vessel is operating under sail power alone.

I won’t even speculate on how or why they came up with this particular light configuration, but if you want to use these lights as a sailing vessel, you can do so, but that means that you will need three all round lights at the top of your mast, an all around white, an all around red and an all around green, just in that order.

The red over green is to be displayed in addition to the running lights or the red and green bow lights with the 225 degree stern light. As always, when the motor comes on, so does the steaming light or the forward facing white light that is also usually about ¾ of the way up on your mast to complete the requirement of an all around white light that indicates a power vessel.

What is a “steaming light” and why are you mentioning it now?

Most sailboat electrical panels will have a switch that is labelled “steaming light” and it will only come on when your anchor light is off. This is probably the most confusing part of sailboat navigation lights so if you are confused about this, you're in good company as most people are.

A “steaming” light is named thusly, going back to the days of steam powered sailboats where when they fired up their boilers and doused the sails, they became a power boat once again. There aren’t too many steam powered boats, let alone steam powered sailboats, but the name stuck and it is a vestige of a bygone era.

Either way, when you fire up your motor, you turn on your “steaming light” and that locks out the all around white light which is used for anchoring to minimize the number of switches on your panel and reduce the number of wires in your mast. The fewer wires, the less chance of something not working or becoming disconnected.

The steaming light and the anchor light both go up the mast, but you can’t use an all around white light while using the 225 degree stern light at the deck level because to other boaters you would look like you have two white lights from the stern and that would be confusing.

The anchor light is used exclusively for anchoring while the steaming light is used to indicate you are a power vessel while underway.

As to why I am mentioning it now in the article, is because this would have blown your mind if I started with this subject cause it can be really confusing stuff.

Aspect Recognition with Lights

Remember when I said earlier that lights can help you tell others which way you are heading as well as tell you which way other boats are heading? That is called the aspect of the vessel and the USCG tests you on this for your deck exam as well.

Knowing that the bow lights go 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on both sides or 112.5 degrees on each side, and the stern light faces 225 degrees aft for a total of 360 degrees of visibility, you can tell a lot about where a boat is heading and who has the right of way.

One thing that's easy to remember is red means stop and if you see a vessel's red light, it means stop as you are the give way vessel and approaching the other vessel from his port side. Conversely it works with green as well as that means you are approaching from the other vessel's starboard side and you are the standon vessel.

If you see a red and green light equally low on the horizon, that means your heading dead on into another vessel's path and conversely if all you see is a white light low on the horizon, it means you are overtaking another vessel power or sail, we don’t care because it is an overtaking situation. However, any time you do see a white light aloft in addition to the red and green bow lights, you know you are encountering a power boat.

Then there are angular approaches as well, where you see white and red or white and green light low on the horizon. You know in that case you are seeing a portion of the bow lights and stern lights from the side approaches of a vessel. Based on which direction those lights are heading, you can deduce which way that boat is going in relation to your boat.

So put it all together and you see a green light and a white light low on the horizon with a red over green light aloft, you know that you are approaching a sailboat that is traveling to your port and that might make you the standon vessel. That is of course, if we didn’t concern ourselves with windward and leeward and port tacks and starboard tacks, but that is a discussion for another article. So stay tuned when we talk about sailing rules and the right of way. But for now, do good, have fun and sail far.

Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

by this author

Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)

Most Recent

What Does "Sailing By The Lee" Mean?

Daniel Wade

October 3, 2023

The Best Sailing Schools And Programs: Reviews & Ratings

September 26, 2023

Important Legal Info

Lifeofsailing.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies.

How To Choose The Right Sailing Instructor

August 16, 2023

Cost To Sail Around The World

May 16, 2023

How To Drive A Pontoon Boat

Jacob Collier

December 19, 2022

Best Liveaboard Catamaran Sailboats

December 28, 2023

Can a Novice Sail Around the World?

Elizabeth O'Malley

Best Electric Outboard Motors | Life of Sailing

4 Best Electric Outboard Motors

How Long Did It Take The Vikings To Sail To England?

10 Best Sailboat Brands | Life of Sailing

10 Best Sailboat Brands (And Why)

December 20, 2023

7 Best Places To Liveaboard A Sailboat

Get the best sailing content.

Ultimate Guide To Marine Navigation Lighting

Ultimate Guide To Marine Lighting: marine navigation lighting

If you drive a car or even ride a bicycle, you might be well aware of the necessity of lighting systems (though in the second case the word ‘system’ doesn’t quite apply) for the safety of you and the people around you. The thing applies just as well for ships. But since they are much larger than a car, the lighting system or navigation lights on ships is a little bit more complicated as well. Marine navigation lighting is also one of the most critical aspects of nautical studies.

It is mandatory for boats of all sizes to have a navigation system . This is to make sure that the chances of any significant accident are minimized. The United States introduced the system in 1838, and the United Kingdom followed suit. Before being internationally adopted in 1897 suitable guidelines were established by the International Maritime Conference which was established in 1889. Three colors were chosen that were to be used for the light colors. They were red, green and white. This was based on a set of rules specified by the US and are followed around the world to this date.

This article discusses the different rules and regulations of using navigation lights, their importance, and also some basic marine navigation lighting systems along with their positions and ranges.

Marine Navigational Lights, Rules and Regulations

A standard pattern of marine navigation lighting is followed for the identification of both the vessel as well as the IALA buoyage system at night. If you are required to move from sea to a channel you need to have a list of all the IALA as well as the other fixed navigational lights that are visible on entering the channel. This includes distant lighthouses as well.

If you also make a note of the inland features like the radio and television transmitter masts it will benefit you because they act as good navigational aids due to their height and warning lights.

The helmsman should not be using any bright light source in the cockpit area and should rather take the aid of red lights and very dim white lights in the galley and navigation area. This is because he needs to preserve his night vision so that he can accurately interpret both the buoyage marine navigation lights as well as the boat navigation lights of other vessels.

The nautical almanacs contain the details of each and every visible maritime light signal coming from navigational markers that are both inside and outside the channel.

All the details about any particular light can be found in a published list or on a marine navigational lights chart: its color, period, and in some cases even the elevation and range of the beacon. Use the chart to keep a tag on the lights you are passing by putting a tick mark on the lights that you are about to pass and as the boat sails past, the tick is checked.

You will get two visual clues to figure out how far you are away from a buoy. The light will elevate from the horizon at 0.5 nm and at about 200m, the light will reflect on the surface.

Position of Boat Navigation Lights

Most of the variations that can be found in the different vessels can be read about in most almanacs. At the very basic level, a vessel needs to show a red light to port and green light to starboard. Depending on the size of the vessel, one or more colored or white lights are used as well.

For vessels that are 12 ft in length or shorter, the navigation lights must be visible from a range of one nautical mile and for the ones that are longer than 12 meters the required visibility range is 2 nautical miles. From 5 degrees above to 5 degrees below the horizontal happens to be the required minimum intensity in a vertical sector.

International Navigation Rules state that the boat navigation lights should be placed above the uppermost continuous deck. In case separate fixtures are used for the red and green sidelights, the masthead or all-round white light is placed as close as possible to the vessel’s fore and aft centerline. The masthead or all-around light needs to be positioned at least 1 m or 3.3 ft above the sidelights.

Following are the basic positions of navigational lights. We will discuss the same in greater detail ahead.

Ultimate Guide To Marine Navigation Lighting 1

Boat Navigation Light Regulations

Several rules and specifications are related to the type, size, layout, arc, and distance of visibility of boat navigation lights used by all vessel types which are collectively known as the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea or COLREGs . The navigational lights used are known as ‘COLREG lights and shapes. A boat might be anchored or underway, under sail or power, or fishing or trawling. These various situations can be communicated through multiple combinations of boat navigational lights.

In addition to the primary navigation lights, vessels may also display one or more steaming lights. These lights are very useful for it gives details about the various aspects of the ship like whether it is in the sail or under power, the direction in which it is going and, in some cases, even the size of the vessel. If a ship is engaged in a specific task that might involve certain restrictions, that too can be indicated with some extra boat lights.

Always maintain the lighting system and display the correct navigation light combination to make other vessels in the vicinity aware of your course and state as to whether your vessel is under power or not. If you follow this a considerable amount lowers the chances of a collision. Here is a list that you might use to familiarise yourself with the basics of the lighting system.

Basic Navigation Light White Light : Small dinghies that are 7m or less in size are required to carry a torch having a white light that can be flashed when needed.
All-Round White Light: An all-round white light is expected to be displayed by a small boat, up to 7ft long that is under power and can go beyond 7 knots of speed. This light must be visible at an angle of 360 degrees and from two miles away. An all-around white light is also used when the boat or vessel is at anchor but not at a designated anchoring area. This is to make sure that the ship is visible to all the nearby ships to avoid any accidents.
Stern and Combined Side Lights : A stern light is a white light that is installed at the end of a boat. A vessel that is over 7 m or 23 ft in length is expected to show red and green sidelights when sailing. Each of these lights needs to cover an arc of 112.5°. The sidelights may be combined in one lantern at the bow when below 25 m or 65 ft. The white stern light can be seen over an arc of 135°. These lights need to be visible from a distance of a mile and need to be placed 39 inches below all white lights for boats of lengths equal to or less than 12 ft.
Masthead Light : A combination of sidelight and stern light in a tricolor combination may be used sailing yachts of heights 20 m or lower. A masthead light is required by vessels of lengths between 39.4 ft and 65.6 ft. It is placed in the masthead whose height provides excellent visibility. Still, stern lights and sidelights should be fitted separately in case of or use under power along with steaming light. This kind of light needs to be visible across an angle of 225 degrees and from a minimum distance of 2 miles.
Separate Lights : The displaying of the tricolor masthead light is not allowed in the case of yachts that are longer than 20 m or 65 ft. Instead, they use them separately. Often on large sailing vessels, these all-around, red over green lights are present. These red and green sidelights need to be visible from a distance of one mile and across an angle of 112.5 degrees.
Steaming Lights Combined Lights : A combination of the masthead and stern light are used in the case of power crafts that are less than 20 m or 65 ft in length. The arrangement is present at the bow.
Single Steaming Light : Visible over a 225 degrees arc, a masthead steaming light is used by power-driven vessels that are up to 50 m or 160 ft long. Separate stern lights and sidelights are used in case of a length exceeding 20 m or 65 ft.
Two Steaming Lights: Power-driven vessels that span over 50 m or 160 ft in length display two masthead steaming lights. The forward light placed lower than the aft light with both of them being visible over an arc of 225° with the sidelights and separate stern light.

The area of the nautical lighting system is a precise business and requires some amount of study and a good deal of responsibility. It is because its application forms a core element in safe marine navigation.

The Exxon Valdez Oil Spill Incident

Exxon Valdez oil spill was one of the worst accidents involving ocean oil spill. Today, we will uncover the true story behind it. The indispensability of oil in our day-to-day lives is unquestionable. The number of industries that are heavily reliant on oil as their source of fuel is vast. But what comes as a…

13 Major Oil Spills Of The Maritime World

An oil spill is the release of oil into the environment. Spilling of crude oil or any oil distilled product ( like gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuels, Stoddard solvent, hydraulic oils, lubricating oils) pollute the surface of the land, air, and water environment An oil spill is a kind of environmental pollution. Oil spill affects marine…

Ancient Seaports of India

It may come as a surprise to many people that India has a rich history of shipbuilding and Indians were quite accomplished seafarers. This obviously means that India also had many seaports in the past. Here is the list of ancient seaports of India. All of these ports were a hub of trade and commerce…

Automatic Identification System

Modern-day ships are equipped with several modern equipment and safety measures to ensure a smooth and successful voyage. These new techniques have emerged and evolved from years and years of study, research and experimenting. One such system is the Automatic Identification System or AIS. This article discusses the meaning of this term, the purpose and…

What Are Houseboats?

What Is A Houseboat? A houseboat as the name suggests is a boat that is constructed or modified to be used as a home. They are a result of a unique combination of housing and boating and are used for residential or recreational purposes. They are used as an alternate residency in many parts of…

What Is A Lightship?

What is a Lightship? A lightship or a light vessel is a ship that can also operate as a lighthouse. These types of ships are used in waters that are too deep and where lighthouses cannot be constructed. Lightships play an important role in assisting other ships to navigate through waters. A lighthouse is a…

Lights and shapes

Definitions

Masthead light means a white light placed over the fore and aft centreline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225° and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5° abaft the beam on either side of the vessel.
Sidelight means a green light on the starboard side and a red light on the port side each showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 112.5° and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5° abaft the beam on its respective side. In a vessel of less than 20 metres in length the sidelights may be combined in one lantern carried on the fore and aft centreline of the vessel.
Sternlight means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135° and so fixed as to show the light 67.5° from right aft on each side of the vessel.
Towing light means a yellow light having the same characteristics as the sternlight.
All-round light means a light showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 360°.
Flashing light means a light flashing at regular intervals at a frequency of 120 flashes or more per minute.

Colour legend

Power-driven vessel underway

A power-driven vessel underway shall exhibit:

a masthead light forward;
a second masthead light abaft of and higher than the forward one; except that a vessel of less than 50 metres in length shall not be obliged to exhibit such light but may do so;
sidelights;
a sternlight.

Sailing vessels underway and vessels under oars

A sailing vessel underway shall exhibit:

In a sailing vessel of less than 20 metres in length the lights may be combined in one lantern carried at or near the top of the mast where it can best be seen.

A sailing vessel underway may, in addition to the lights, exhibit at or near the top of the mast, where they can best be seen, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being red and the lower green, but these lights shall not be exhibited in conjunction with the combined lantern.

4 lights configurations sailing

A sailing vessel of less than 7 metres in length shall, if practicable, exhibit the lights prescribed above, but if she does not, she shall have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision.

A vessel under oars may exhibit the lights prescribed in this Rule for sailing vessels, but if she does not, she shall have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision.

Sailing and Motoring

A vessel proceeding under sail which has her engine running shall exhibit, forward where it can best be seen, a conical shape, apex downwards. She shall exibit lights according to a power-driven vessel.

A vessel at anchor shall according to Rule 30 (a) (b) exhibit where it can best be seen:

in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball;
at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in Rule 30(a)(i), an all-round white light.

A vessel aground shall according to Rule 30 (d) exhibit the lights prescribed in Rule 30(a) or (b) and in addition, if practicable, where they can best be seen;

two all-round red lights in a vertical line;
three balls in a vertical line.

A power-driven vessel when towing shall exhibit:

two masthead lights in a vertical line. When the length of the tow, measuring from the stern of the towing vessel to the after end of the tow exceeds 200 metres, three such lights in a vertical line; Rule 24 ;
a sternlight;
a towing light in a vertical line above the sternlight;
when the length of the tow exceeds 200 metres, a diamond shape where it can best be seen.

Towing an inconspicuous, partly submerged object

An inconspicuous, partly submerged vessel or object, or combination of such vessels or objects being towed; Rule 24 (g) , shall exhibit:

if it is less than 25 metres in breadth, one all-round white light at or near the forward end and one at or near the after end except that dracones need not exhibit a light at or near the forward end;
if it is 25 metres or more in breadth, two additional all-round white lights at or near the extremities of its breadth;
if it exceeds 100 metres in length, additional all-round white lights between these lights so that the distance between the lights shall not exceed 100 metres;
a diamond shape at or near the aftermost extremity of the last vessel or object being towed and if the length of the tow exceeds 200 metres an additional diamond shape where it can best be seen and located as far forward as is practicable.

Pushing from ahead or towing alongside

When a pushing vessel and a vessel being pushed ahead are rigidly connected in a composite unit they shall be regarded as a power-driven vessel and exhibit the normal lights.

A power-driven vessel when pushing ahead or towing alongside, except in the case of a composite unit; Rule 24 (c) , shall exhibit:

two masthead lights in a vertical line;

A vessel or object being towed shall exhibit:

Provided that any number of vessels being towed alongside or pushed in a group shall be lighted as one vessel,
a vessel being pushed ahead, not being part of a composite unit, shall exhibit at the forward end, sidelights;
a vessel being towed alongside shall exhibit a sternlight and at the forward end, sidelights.

Fishing – Trawling

A vessel engaged in fishing, whether underway or at anchor, shall exhibit only the lights and shapes prescribed below; Rule 26

A vessel when engaged in trawling, by which is meant the dragging through the water of a dredge net or other apparatus used as a fishing appliance, shall exhibit:

two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being green and the lower white, or a shape consisting of two cones with their apexes together in a vertical line one above the other;
a masthead light abaft of and higher than the all-round green light; a vessel of less than 50 metres in length shall not be obliged to exhibit such a light but may do so;
when making way through the water, in addition to the lights prescribed hereh, sidelights and a sternlight.
when shooting nets, white light over white light (Flag Z by day);
when hauling nets, white light over red light (Flag G by day);
When nets are caught on the bottom, red light over red light (Flag P by day).

Trawling in span

When pair trawling, each vessel shows searchlights on water aiming forward ( Flag T by day); Rule 26 (f) (b)ǂ(2)

Fishing, other than trawling

A vessel engaged in fishing, other than trawling , according to Rule 26 (c) shall exhibit:

two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being red and the lower white, or a shape consisting of two cones with apexes together in a vertical line one above the other;
when there is outlying gear extending more than 150 metres horizontally from the vessel, an all-round white light or a cone apex upwards in the direction of the gear;
when making way through the water, in addition to the lights prescribed here, sidelights and a sternlight.

Purse seining

Purse Seiners will exhibit two all-round yellow lights in a vertical line, flashing alternately; Rule 26 (f) 3ǂ(iii)

Constrained by draught

A vessel constrained by her draught / draft may, (and not “shall”!) in addition to the lights prescribed for power-driven vessels, exhibit where they can best be seen three all-round red lights in a vertical line, or as day sign a cylinder, Rule 28

Not under command

A vessel not under command, sometimes knows as a NUC N ot U nder C ommand." aria-label="Illumination" data-bs-original-title="NUC"> vessel, shall according to Rule 27(a) exhibit:

two all-round red lights in a vertical line where they can best be seen;
two spherical shapes in a vertical line where they can best be seen; and
when making way through the water also normal sidelights and a sternlight (not shown in the examples below).

Restricted in her ability to manoeuvre

A vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre, sometimes knows as a RAM R estricted in her A bility to M anoeuvre." aria-label="Illumination" data-bs-original-title="RAM"> vessel, except a vessel engaged in mine clearance operations , shall according to Rule 27(b) exhibit:

three all-round lights in a vertical line where they can best be seen. The highest and lowest of these lights shall be red and the middle light shall be white;
three shapes in a vertical line where they can best be seen. The highest and lowest of these shapes shall be balls and the middle one a diamond;
when making way through the water, also a masthead light or lights, sidelights and a sternlight

Dredging or underwater operations

A vessel engaged in dredging or underwater operations, when restricted in her ability to manoeuvre; Rule 27(d) , shall exibit

two all-round red lights or two balls in a vertical line to indicate the side on which the obstruction exists;
two all-round green lights or two diamonds in a vertical line to indicate the side on which another vessel may pass; and
when at anchor (or not making way), the lights or shapes prescribed in this section instead of the lights or shapes prescribed in Rule 30

Small diving vessel

A vessel engaged on pilotage, according to Rule 29 , duty shall exhibit:

at or near the masthead, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being white and the lower red;
when underway, in addition, sidelights and a sternlight; as shown in the example below.

Hovercraft, hydrofoil ferry

An air-cushion vessel when operating in non-displacement mode shall, besides a masthead light forward, (plus a masthead light abaft if longer than 50 m) sidelights and a sternlight, exhibit an all‑round flashing yellow light (faster than 2 flashes per second). Rule 23(b)

Also a hydrofoil ferry or high speed catamaran when acting as ferry is often allowed under local regulations to exhibit an all-round flashing yellow light.

Minesweeper

A vessel engaged in mine clearance operations shall in addition to the lights prescribed for a power-driven vessel, or to the lights or shape prescribed for a vessel at anchor, exhibit three all-round green lights or three balls. One of these lights or shapes shall be exhibited near the mast head and one at each end of the fore yard. These lights or shapes indicate that it is dangerous for another vessel to approach within 1000 metres of the mine clearance vessel. Rule 27(f)

See all chapters

Course overview Chapter 1 – Positions Chapter 2 – Nautical chart Chapter 3 – Compass Chapter 4 – Plotting and piloting Chapter 5 – Plotting and piloting – Advanced Chapter 6 – Tides Chapter 7 – Tide prediction Chapter 8 – Currents Chapter 9 – Navigation aids Chapter 10 – Lights and Shapes

Pontoon Boats
Personal Watercraft
nauticalknowhow
Nautical Knots
Tools and Calculators

Understanding Boat Navigation Lights

Boat navigation lights are essential when you’re out on the water. They’re essential, but it’s easy to misunderstand their uses and correct placements.

If you don’t know the correct placement for your stern lights or know what type of navigation light you need on your mast, don’t worry: we’re here to help. Below, we’ve got an overview of everything you need to know about boat navigation lights: what type of navigation lights you need, where to put them, and why you need to use them.

So without further ado, let’s learn more about boat navigation lights.

What navigation lights are required on a boat?

The U.S. Coast Guard Navigation Rules, International-Inland encompasses lighting requirements for every description of watercraft. The information provided there is intended for powerboats and sailing vessels less than 20 meters. The various options are illustrated.

The U.S. Inland Rules apply inside the demarcation lines at the entrances to inlets, bays, rivers, etc. The demarcation lines are shown on coastal charts as magenta dashed lines. Once outside of the demarcation lines, International Rules apply.

Powered Vessels

Power boats less than 20 meters shall exhibit navigation lights as shown in Figure 1. (Note: 2 masthead lights are optional for vessels under 50 meters. Vessels over 50 meters will display two masthead lights.)

Vessels of less than 12 meters in length, may show the lights in either Figure 1 or Figure 2.

Powerboats less than 7 meters whose maximum speed cannot exceed 7 knots may exhibit an all-round white light, and if practicable sidelights instead of the lights prescribed above, in international waters only.

Sailing Vessels and Vessels Under Oars

Sailing vessels less than 20 meters may exhibit the navigation lights shown in Figures 3 or 4.

Another option for sailboats is to use a single combination lamp at the top of the mast as shown in Figure 5.

Sailing vessels less than 7 meters may carry an electric torch or lit lantern showing a white light to be displayed in time to prevent collision (see Figure 6 – left picture).

If possible, the lights prescribed for sailing vessels less than 20 meters should be displayed.

Vessels under oars may display the lights prescribed for sailing vessels, but if not, must have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light to be displayed in time to prevent collision (see Figure 6 – right picture).

Small boats can benefit from using a temporary LED light with a suction cup attachment if permanent fixings aren’t possible.

Shapes and Lights

To alert other vessels of conditions that may be hazardous, there are requirements to display lights at night and shapes during the day.

Anchored Vessels

Powered vessels and sailing vessels at anchor must display anchor lights. An anchor light for a boat less than 50 meters in length is an all-around white light visible for 2 miles exhibited where it can best be seen (see Figure 7).

Vessels at anchor shall exhibit forward where best seen, a ball shape (see Figure 8).

Vessels less than 7 meters are not required to display anchor lights or day shapes unless anchored in or near a narrow channel, fairway or anchorage, or where other vessels normally navigate.

Anchor lights are not required on vessels less than 20 meters, anchored in special anchorages in inland waters designated by the Secretary of Transportation.

Sailing Vessels Under Power

Vessels under sail also being propelled by machinery, must exhibit forward where best seen, a conical shape with the apex pointing down (see Figure 9).

Vessels less than 12 meters are not required to exhibit the dayshape in inland waters.

Sailing vessels operating under machinery, or under sail and machinery are considered as powered boats and must display the lights prescribed for a power-driven vessel.

Restricted Maneuverability

The Navigation Rules require vessels restricted in their ability to maneuver to display appropriate day shapes or lights. To meet this requirement, recreational vessels engaged in diving activities may exhibit a rigid replica of the international code flag “A” not less than one meter in height or at night display the navigation lights shown in Figure 10.

This requirement does not affect the use of a red and white divers flag which may be required by state or local law to mark a diver’s location. The “A” flag is a navigation signal indicating the vessel’s restricted maneuverability and does not pertain to the diver.

Navigation lights should be checked prior to departing the dock and you should always carry spare bulbs. The USCG doesn’t care if they were working when you left, only that they are working when required.

Where do navigation lights go on a boat?

The current navigation light requirements are found in the Navigation Rules, International-Inland, and in Parts 81, 84, and 89 of Title 33, Code of Federal Regulations . They’re easy to find, but many sailors and boat manufacturers do not have a good understanding of the rules governing the proper installation of navigation lights. To help clear up any misunderstandings here’s all you need to know:

Sidelights that are installed in the contour of the bow without providing a mounting surface tooled to be parallel with the fore and aft centreline of the boat are not in compliance with the Inland or International Navigation Rules. Depending on the breadth of the boat near the bow and how far aft from the vessel’s stem the lights are mounted, this shift can be more than 20 degrees in some cases. Installing the fixtures too far aft of the vessel’s stem may result in the sidelights not being visible from a position dead ahead.

Another factor in the proper installation of sidelights is that they must maintain their required minimum intensity in a vertical sector from 5 degrees above to 5 degrees below the horizontal. They must also maintain at least 60 percent of their minimum required intensity from 7.5 degrees above to 7.5 degrees below the horizontal. Installing flush-mounted sidelights, designed to be mounted to a vertical surface in the hull contour, without providing a mounting surface tooled to be vertical, shifts the vertical coverage sector. This also results in non-compliance with the Inland or International Navigation Rules.

Additionally, most of these flush-mounted sidelights are installed below the vessel’s rub rail. International Navigation Rules require that sidelights be installed above the uppermost continuous deck. Therefore, this configuration would not be in compliance with International Navigation Rules.

When separate red and green sidelight fixtures are used, the masthead light or all-round white light, whichever configuration is installed, must be located as close as practical to the vessel’s fore and aft centerline. For vessels less than 12 meters in length, the masthead light or round lights may be displaced from the fore and aft centerline providing that the sidelights are contained within a common fixture and mounted on the vessel’s fore and aft centerline. The masthead or round lights must be installed at least one meter (3.3 ft.) above the sidelights.

Which navigation lights are you required to display when anchoring your boat for the night?

Boating at night (or in reduced visibility) can present some special challenges. Not only is your depth perception lessened, but bright lights on the shore can also cast misleading reflections on the water and if you wear glasses, or worse yet bifocals, you simply don’t see as well at night as you do during the day.

It is not only important that you be able to identify other vessels operating in your proximity, it is equally important that other vessels see you. Most recreational vessels are less than 30 feet in length and, according to the Rules of the Road, shall be equipped with navigation lights.

These lights not only have a certain arc through which they can be seen but must be seen from a minimum distance. The following lighting requirements are for recreational vessels less than 12 meters in length. (approximately 39.4′)

The arc of the lights and color allows you to determine the direction a boat is moving. How good are your boat’s lights? You should test them to check your nighttime visibility, or you might land yourself in hot water with the Coast Guard.

Whether on a trailer or at the marina, switch on your lights and see how well they can be seen. Walk away from the boat or row away, if you are at anchor or at a mooring, and see how visible the lights are as you move further away. How easy are they to see against the background of lights onshore?

Does your stern light shine dead astern over the required 135º arc or does it shine to one side or up or down? Can it be seen from the required 2 miles and why is that important? As an example, let’s say that your stern lights can only be seen for 1/2 mile. You are underway at 8 knots and a large ship is approaching at 15 knots. The ship is only 4 minutes away from a collision with you. By the time the ship “might” see you, identify the light, and decide on how to move, it is too late. A ship traveling at 15 knots may take miles to stop.

Look at the stern lights again, as you move from the stern toward the bow, does the stern light “disappear” as the sidelight “appears”? The stern light should disappear and sidelight appear at 22.5º abaft the beam. If you don’t see the green starboard sidelight or the red port side light when the stern light disappears there is a problem with the arc of one or all these lights. This means that if another boat were approaching you at the angle where no lights are seen there is an increased risk of collision.

If both the stern lights and side lights are seen brightly at the same time you still have a problem. A boat approaching won’t know whether they are overtaking or crossing and whether they should give-way or stand-on.

You should also check to make sure that your masthead light disappears at the same time each side lights disappear and they both disappear when the stern light appears.

Check your sidelights from dead ahead. You should see both red and green. However, by moving toward one side just 1-3º you should then see only one light. If you still see two lights, an approaching boat won’t be able to tell which direction you’re are going.

It is very important to be seen from a distance but also for an approaching boat to be able to determine your direction of travel.

When boating at night remember the following: “When two lights you see ahead, turn your helm and show your red”.

About Chris

Outdoors, I’m in my element, especially in the water. I know the importance of being geared up for anything. I do the deep digital dive, researching gear, boats and knowhow and love keeping my readership at the helm of their passions.

Categories : nauticalknowhow

Robert Hogward on September 12, 2021

Thanks for writing this post. I can either place them on the exterior or interior for decorations. Placing them on the exterior side is helpful when I go fishing and indulging in other night activities in the water.

Dalton Bourne on July 26, 2022

We love the lights! We put lights from Seaponer on my Jon boat right above the water line and use them for night fishing! The amount of brightness it offers is an assurance of my boat’s being seen clearly during the night. At the same time, the LED lights don’t consume too much energy, leading to a life span of up to 50,000 hours.

More in nauticalknowhow

How to Tie a Boat to a Dock

How to Clean a Boat Cover

Everything You Need to Know About Your Boat’s Bilge Pump

4 Ways to Tie Your Boat Shoes

The People’s Poncho Review and Ratings

Oru Lake Kayak Review

What Is A Gunwale?

131 of the Best Hawaiian Boat Names

167 Patriotic Boat Names

About boatsafe.

Established in 1998, BoatSafe is your independent guide into the world of boating, fishing, and watersports. We provide expert insights and detailed guides to help you find products tailored to your needs and budget.

Contact Boatsafe

Address: 4021 West Walnut Street. Rogers, AR 72756
Phone: (479)339-4795
Email: [email protected]

Site Navigation

How We Test
Corrections Policy
Privacy Policy
Terms & Conditions
Editorial Policy
Affiliate Disclosure

Our Reviews

Your browser is out-of-date! You must upgrade to a different browser to experience this site.

All Chapters

Boating Terminology
Boat Hull Types & Designs
Boat Engine Types Explained
Boat Size Classifications
Boat Capacity
Hull Identification Numbers
Boat Registration & Titling
Life Jacket Types & Designs
Children's Life Jacket Recommendations & Requirements
PFD Rules & Requirements
Life Jacket Fitting & Care Guidelines
Inflatable PFD Types & Tip
Boat Fire Extinguishers
Boat Backfire Flame Arrestor

Boat Ventilation Systems

Boat Navigation Light Types & Requirements

Unpowered Boat Navigation Lights

Visual Distress Signals
Marine Distress Signals
Weather Conditions
Small Craft Advisory
Boat Maintenance Tips
Towing & Trailering
Launching & Retrieving
Pre-departure Checklist
Rendering Assistance
Capsizing/Falls Overboard
Cold Water Immersion
Fire Prevention
Running Aground Prevention
Accident Reports

This site requires JavaScript. Your browser either doesn’t support JavaScript or you have it turned off.

For this page to function correctly, please enable JavaScript and then refresh the page.

Boat Navigation Lights

One of the most important safety systems on your boat is your set of navigation lights.

Whenever you are operating between sunset and sunrise, or in other times of restricted visibility, such as in fog or rain, you need to display the appropriate navigation lights so that other boats can see you and take the appropriate action to avoid a collision.

In general, all navigation light systems include red and green sidelights, which indicate the port and starboard side of your boat, as well as one or more white lights.

It's also important that you have a flashlight on board, as you never know when a navigation light might burn out. The rules for what navigation lights to display depend on a number of factors including:

The length of your boat: e.g. under or over 12 meters;
Whether your boat is being powered by an engine;
Where you're boating, e.g. inland or international waters; and
Whether you at anchor.

For now, remember that it's your responsibility to have the proper navigation lighting. Even if you just purchased a new boat, you should check to ensure that you've got the right lights for safe, and legal, boating.

Powered Boat Navigation Lights

When operating between sunset and sunrise, or in periods of restricted visibility, powered recreational boats require the following set of navigation lights. Remember, these power boat light requirements also apply to sailboats when using a motor.

For powered boats less than 39.4 feet, or 12 meters, you need to have the following set of navigation lights.

One all-around white light that you can see from 360 degrees and from two miles away;
And one pair of red and green sidelights that are visible at 112.5 degrees and from one mile away.

For boats of this size, the all-around white light needs to be positioned at a height of at least 39 inches above the sidelights.

Figure A shows a boat with this setup.

All-around white light - 360 degrees visable from two miles.
Sidelights — 112.5 degrees visible from one mile

If your boat is greater than 39.4 feet but less than 65.6 feet, or 20 meters, you need the following set of navigation lights:

A masthead light is a white light at the front of the boat. The masthead light needs to be visible across 225 degrees and from two miles away.
A stern light, which is a white light at the rear of the boat. The stern light needs to be visible across 135 degrees and from two miles away. When the masthead light and the stern light are combined, that makes up 360 degrees.
Finally, you need one pair red and green sidelights that are visible across 112.5 degrees and from a distance of one mile.

For boats of this size, the masthead light must be positioned at a height of at least 8 feet above the gunnel.

Figure B shows this configuration.

Masthead light (foward) - 225 degrees visible from two miles.
Sternlight (aft) - 135 degrees visible from two miles.
Sidelights - 112.5 degrees visible from one mile.

Boat Navigation Lights at Anchor

We've covered what navigation lights you need to have when you are underway, but what about when you're at anchor?

When your boat is at anchor, but you are not in a designated anchoring area, like at a marina, you need to make sure that you are visible to other boats that may be operating nearby.

When anchoring in these areas, you are required to display an all-around white light where it will be best seen by any other boats in the area.

Navigation Light Requirements for Anchored Vessels

Progressive boating lesson #1: Get insurance to proteect your on-water adventures! Get a Quote

Boat Lighting – Complete Guide to Navigation Lights

I was sitting in the garage the other day admiring my boat when I noticed the green navigation light on the side of the hull, and it dawned on me that I haven’t had the boat out after sunset yet. It also got me wondering about the different places I’d like to travel this summer and what it would be like to navigate in the dark if I had to.

In addition to the legally required lights, I highly recommend having a marine waterproof spotlight in your boat at all times ( this is the one I prefer, which you can buy on Amazon with tons of good reviews ). The little headlight on a boat is nowhere near bright enough to safely navigate if you get caught on the water at night. Trust me, it can save you thousands in boat repairs and a dangerous situation.

I wanted to make sure that I fully understood everything there was to know about navigation lights, so I did some online research. I’ve put together a complete guide of the information I found online talking about the different navigation lights and what I needed to know about them.

What Are Navigation Lights On a Boat?

Boats require specific lighting configuration when operating between sunset and sunrise, or at times when visibility is restricted such as when it’s raining or foggy. Navigation lights are used to help other boaters see you when visibility is reduced, and it allows you also to see the other boaters to avoid collisions.

Navigation lights are also used to communicate with the other boats sharing the water. For example, the navigation lights can tell another boater, what size your vessel is, and in which direction you are heading. This information can be used by the boat caption to determine what the appropriate course of action would be as you approach each other.

By law, the navigation lights come in specific colors; white, red, and green. Even the arc of the illuminated light, the range of visibility, and the location is all specific to what type of vessel you are operating.

Do not assume that your boat came with the appropriate lighting or equipment from the factory or showroom. It is your responsibility to make sure that your boat has the proper navigation lighting configuration before you head out on the water.

What Type Of Boats Requires Navigation Lights?

Basically, in a nutshell, all boats require navigation lights if you’ll be operating them between sunset and sunrise, or whenever visibility is reduced.

This goes for the following types of vessels:

Motorized vessels
Non-motorized vessels
Sailing vessels (Operating under sails)
Sailing vessels (Operating under motor power)
Vessels engaged in fishing
Vessels engaged in trawling
Towing vessels
Anchored vessels
Human-powered vessels such as Rowboats (Kayaks and canoes)

What Lights Are Required On a Boat?

Boats are required to have navigation lights. Navigation lights are required whenever you are operating your vessel between sunset and sunrise, or during any other times when your visibility is restricted from elements such as fog or rain.

The type of lights required depends on the length of your vessel as well as if it’s a powered or non-powered vessel. But in general, all navigation lighting systems will consist of red and green sidelights, as well as one or more white lights. A red sidelight indicates the port side of the vessel, while a green light shows the starboard side of the vessel. The white light in most cases is called an all-around light, which means it can be seen from any angle by other boaters.

Another type of navigation light is a yellow light. A yellow light is not very common to see, but if you do happen to see one, it would mean that a lead boat is towing another boat.

It is your responsibility to make sure you have the proper navigation lighting. It is also recommended that you take spare bulbs with you. The USCG doesn’t care if the lights were working when you left, they only care that the lights are not working when they are required.

Lights Required For Power Vessels Underway:

A powered vessel includes all motorized boats, including sailboats that use a motor.

Vessel length: Under 12 meters (39.4 FT.) Lighting requirement:

One all-around white light that is visible at 360 degrees, and can be seen from two miles away. The all-around white light must be mounted at least 39 inches above the side lights.
A pair of red and green sidelights that are visible 112.5 degrees and can be seen at least one mile away.

Vessel length: 12 meters to 20 meters (39.4 FT. to 65.6 FT.) Lighting requirement:

A white masthead light located at the front of the boat, pointing in the direction you are traveling. This must be visible at 225 degrees and from two miles away. The masthead light must be positioned at least 8 feet above the gunnel.
A white stern light located at the rear of the boat that is visible at 135 degrees and can be seen from 2 miles away.

Lights Required For Non-powered Vessels Underway:

A non-powered vessel includes sailing vessels and all other types of vessels that don’t have motors such as paddled, poled, or rowed.

Vessel length: Under 7 meters (23 FT.) Lighting requirement:

You are required to display a white light that can be seen by other boats. White light could consist of a flashlight, torchlight, or lantern.
If you can, it is recommended that you have an onboard 360-degree white light all-around set on the horizon, with a distance of at least two miles.

Vessel length: Over 7 meters (23 FT.) – NEED 3 IMAGES Lighting requirement:

A pair of red and green sidelights, that are visible 112.5 degrees and can be seen at least one mile away.
Alternatively, for sailboats of that are over 7 meters in length, they can display what is called a tricolor light A tricolor light can only be used while the vessel is underway using sails alone and never while underway by power. This light should also never be used at the same time that the regular sidelights are on. Either the tricolor light or sidelights can be displayed, but never both.

Lights Required For Vessels At Anchor (Less Than 50 Meters):

This rule applies if you are anchored away from a designated area such as a marina.

Vessel length: 12 meters to 20 meters (39.4 FT. to 65.6 FT.) Lighting requirement:

White all-around light is required to be used so you are visible to other ships that could be in the area.

Due to variances in state boating laws/regulations, NASBLA does not provide state-specific information. You may contact your state boating office for the most accurate information. Contact information can be found here: https://www.nasbla.org/about-nasbla/boating-contacts .

Understanding The Difference Between Port And Starboard Lights

While standing on the deck and facing the front of the ship, the left side is called the Port and the right side is called the Starboard. The port is always red , while the starboard is always green .

This information is crucial to understand if you ever find yourself trying to navigate the waters at night or while your visibility is limited. For example, if you are sailing towards another vessel, you will be able to tell if that vessel is heading towards you, or if it is heading away from you based on which side the green and red lights appear to you.

If you see a red light coming towards you, that would mean the other boat is on your right, which means that boat would have the right of way. If you see a green light from an oncoming vessel than you would know that it’s on your left, which means you have the right of way.

When Should Navigation Lights Be Displayed On a Boat?

Navigation lights are required to be displayed in between sunset and sunrise, and anytime that visibility is restricted. For example, due to fog or rain.

Where Can You Buy Navigation Lights?

As discussed earlier, not all boats automatically come with the proper display of navigation lights. It is your responsibility to ensure that your boat has all of the proper equipment for your safety and the safety of others.

The prices for navigation lights will vary anywhere between $9.00 to $100.00 depending on what style and manufacturer you buy. You could even spend as much as $500.00 on some of the higher-end navigation lightings. Be sure to shop around and take a look at what is available, to ensure that you are finding the best lights, at the best prices.

Definitions

All-Round Light: White (32pt/ 360°) Masthead Light: White (20pt/ 225°) Sidelights: Red (10pt/ 112.5°) & Green (10pt/ 112.5°) Stern Light: White (12pt/ 135°)

How To Get Rid of And Prevent Algae on a Boat

I have to admit; I didn’t know too much about algae until I began researching it. I figured if my son were going to be coming out on the water with me, then I’d better learn more about it and make sure it wasn’t going to be harmful to us. As it turns out, there…

Can Boats Survive Tsunamis? Everything You Should Know

Last night at dinner I was talking to my wife about the different places we could go this upcoming summer for a family vacation, and somehow the conversation turned to tsunamis. I have heard in the past that being on a boat during a tsunami is a safe place to be, but I still wanted…

Starting Boat Motor Out Of Water

I’ve heard a lot of boaters talking about how they start their inboard or outboard engine while the boat is on land so they can test the motor before they have it on the boat launch. That got me wondering how safe it could be for the engine, so I did some research. As it…

Buyer’s Guide for a First Time Boat Purchase

Our retirement dream boat is a beautiful 54′ long luxury cruiser yacht with all the bells and whistles. Powerful enough to plow through the roughest waters as we head towards the Caribbean for a few weeks. But before I can get ahead of myself with such a lavish purchase, I decided to keep things simple…

Helpful Tips For Towing a Boat

Every boat owner knows that being able to take your boat everywhere you want is a privilege and a great way to spend your time. However, there are specific rules you have to abide when you want to tow a boat. Some states require special trailer brakes especially if the boat has more than the…

Everything You Need to Know for Winterizing a Boat

With winter right around the corner, the cold air will soon be taking over, causing temperatures to drop below freezing for half of the country. But before that happens you need to make sure that your boat is ready. Without properly winterizing your boat, you run the risk of water freezing and causing the engine…

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: cf7652ac-e5f2-11ee-873e-2c51511834e7

Navigation Light Switching for Vessels Under 20 Meters

14 Steps To Wiring Your Boat

What you need to know to install or re-wire the electrical system on your boat. a step-by-step practical guide. covers planning, diagrams, wiring, batteries, over current protection and more..

I want to thank Ed Sherman for reviewing this page for accuracy.

A question often asked on boating and boat building forums, and by visitors to my web site, is: “I need a simple wiring diagram for a small outboard boat to wire up the lights and few other things, but no one seems to have one. Is there one, and where can I find it? Are there a set of step-by-step instructions?”

There are wiring diagrams, websites and forums that tell you how to wire an electrical system for large boats and bigger sailboats. But when it comes to small boats there is a distinct lack of information and diagrams for how to install a simple, safe, and reliable electrical system.

The following is meant to apply only to small outboard boats under 16 feet with 50 or 60 horsepower or less. It can be applied to slightly larger boats that have a simple 12V DC system using one or two 12V batteries.

Note 1 : I will not deal with the wiring specifically for the outboard motor and controls. Here is a web site where you can obtain wiring diagrams for most outboard motors. Most new outboards come with a wiring harness and a manual that has wiring diagrams. See Master Tech Marine Outboard Wiring Diagrams .

Note 2: If you are re-wiring a boat with an electrical system installed: Don't rip out that old system yet ! Use the old system to help make a plan in steps 1 through 7. Trace out each wire and put that on your diagram. This will make it far easier to locate wires and equipment. Wait until you actually start installing wiring in step 12. Then replace each set of wires with new. This may take a little more time, but will result in far fewer mistakes and less troubleshooting.

Note 3: Throughout this I will give references to the US Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) requirements that apply to boat manufacturers, and to the American Boat and Yacht Council industry standards. Examples: 33 CFR 183.401, or ABYC E-11. The US Coast Guard Regulations (the CFR) and the ABYC standards are good guidelines to follow for a safe and reliable electrical system. They are used by marine electricians, professional boatbuilders, designers, marine surveyors, and marine repairers. If that’s how the pros do it, so should you.

Step 1. Make a Plan. Decide what you want to install, and where it will go. See Electrical Planning

Step 2. Draw a simple electrical schematic (diagram) that shows each piece of equipment, the fuses, switches, and how all of this will be connected. This is not a diagram of where the equipment is located on the boat. That will come in Step 8. It is simply a diagram of the electrical circuits. Here are two alternative examples. (Click on the diagram to expand.) The first diagram uses a positive buss bar. The second omits the positive buss bar. For clarity I did not use color codes except red (positive) and black (negative).

Do not be concerned if you don’t know electrical symbols. Just make a box or circle and write in what it is, or you can use a picture of the item. As long as you understand what goes where, and how they are connected, it’s Ok. Remember, any 12V DC device must have at least a positive and negative wire connected to it. Put a plus or minus next to the wire or use red for positive and black for negative. On metal boats do not use the hull as a return (negative) path. Connecting your electrical system to a metal hull can result in stray current corrosion.

Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

Diagram of the four main parts categories of a sailboat

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Diagram of Parts of a sailboat - General overview

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Diagram of the Standing Riggin Parts of a sailboat

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

Diagram of the Running Rigging Parts of a sailboat

Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

Cruising yacht with mainsail, headsail, and gennaker

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

How To Live On a Boat For Free: How I'd Do It

How To Live on a Sailboat: Consider These 5 Things

Own your first boat within a year on any budget.

A sailboat doesn't have to be expensive if you know what you're doing. If you want to learn how to make your sailing dream reality within a year, leave your email and I'll send you free updates . I don't like spam - I will only send helpful content.

Ready to Own Your First Boat?

Just tell us the best email address to send your tips to:

CREATE AN ACCOUNT
Boat Cover Finder
Bimini Top Finder
Boat Propeller Finder
Engine Parts Finder
Anchor & Dock
Watersports
Clothing and Footwear
Engine Parts
Cabin and Galley
Covers and Biminis
Electronics
Paint and Maintenance
Pumps and Plumbing
Anchor Chains & Ropes
Boat Fenders
Boat Mooring
Boat Protection
Dock Storage & Protection
Ladders, Steps, & Platforms
Top Sellers

Fishing Rods
Fishing Reels
Fishing Rod & Reel Combos
Fishing Tools & Tackle Boxes
Fishing Line
Fly Fishing
Fishing Bait & Fishing Lures
Fishing Rod Holders & Storage Racks
Fish Finders, Sounders & Sonar
Trolling Motors
Fishing Nets
Fishing Downriggers & Acessories
Fishing Outriggers & Acessories
Fishing Kayaks
Fish Cleaning Tables

Inflatable Rafts
Paddle Boarding
Paddles & Oars
Wakeboard, Wakesurf & Ski
Wakeboard Towers
Tow Ropes & Handles
Life Jackets & PFDs
Snow Sports
Roof Racks, Carriers, Dollies

Men's Clothing

Accessories

Men's Footwear

Atheltic Shoes
Water Shoes

Women's Clothing

Dresses & Skirts

Women's Footwear

Fuel Systems
Sacrificial Anodes & Zincs
Generator Parts
Inflatable Boats
Propeller Parts & Accessories
Boat Manuals
PWC Parts & Accessories

Fishing Boat Seats
Offshore Boat Seats
Ski Boat Seats
Pontoon Boat Seats & Furniture
Boat Seat Pedestals & Hardware
Boat Seats by Manufacturer
Boat Tables & Hardware
Boat Seat Covers
Boat Seat Vinyl
Floating Boat Cushions

Barbeque Grills
Boat Drink Holders
Cabin Accessories & Hardware
Boat Ventilation
Interior & Cabin Lighting
Marine Teak Products
Carbon Monoxide & Smoke Detectors
Binoculars & Telescopes

Boat Bimini Tops

Bimini Top Accessories
Pontoon Bimini Tops
Other Biminis
RV & Trailer Covers
Boat Shrink Wrap & Accessories
Boat Shelters

Boat Covers

Boat Cover Accessories
Boat Lift Canopy Covers
Other Covers
Boat Wiring & Cable
Marine Batteries & Accessories
Marine DC Power Plugs & Sockets
Marine Electrical Meters
Boat Lights
Marine Electrical Panels & Circuit Breakers
Power Packs & Jump Starters
Marine Solar Power Accessories
Marine Electrical Terminals
Marine Fuse Blocks & Terminal Blocks
Marine Switches
Shore Power & AC Distribution

Marine Audio & Video
GPS Chartplotters & Accessories
Electronic Navigation Charts & Software
Digital Instruments
Display Mounts
VHF Radios & Communication
Marine Radar
Auto Pilot Systems
Action Cameras

Fiberglass & Epoxy Boat Repair
Boat Paint & Varnish
Marine Adhesives, Sealant, & Caulking
Marine Engine Maintenance
Boat Cleaners & Waxes
Boat Cleaning Supplies

Fresh Water Boat Systems
Bilge Pumps
Marine Plumbing Parts
Wash Down Pumps
Livewell Aerator Pumps & Live Bait Wells
Toilet & Waste Pumps
Marine Pump Replacement Parts

Tires, Rims, & Hub Kits
Boat Trailer Winches
Boat Motor Supports & Transom Savers
Boat Trailer Guides & Rollers
Boat Trailer Fenders
Boat Trailer Lights
Boat Trailer Hardware
Boat Trailer Jacks
Boat Trailer Brakes & Axles
Boat Trailer Tie Downs
Couplers, Mounts, Hitches, & Locks

Boat Deck Harware
Marine Nuts, Bolts, & Screws
Boat Handles, Pulls, & Rings
Prop Nut Kits & Hardware
Boat Cabin Hardware
Marine Fasteners
Boat Windshield Parts
Boat Tubing & Rails
Boat Mirrors
Marine Tools & Tool Kits
Boat Lettering

Women's Clothing Deals
Men's Clothing Deals
Fishing Deals
Anchor & Dock Deals
Electrical Deals
Electronics Deals
Paint & Maintenance Deals
Pumps & Plumbing Deals
Boat Seats Deals
Trailering Deals
Camping & RV Deals
Dealer Login

Forums Login

Search forums
Boat Repair and Restoration
Electrical, Electronics, Audio and Trolling Motors

Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights.

Thread starter Baytown.boy
Start date Mar 27, 2011

Baytown.boy

Mar 27, 2011

I Need a very very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Mounting the red and green on seperate sides of a center console and the anchor light in the back, thanx.

Honorary Moderator Emeritus

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=225399&p=2745677&viewfull=1#post2745677

Lieutenant Commander

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Hmm, may want to make sure that red and green mounted on your center console meets all the visibility requirements: http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/sidelights.htm Especially the part where they are visible x degrees above and below horizontal.

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. These are the navagation lights I will be using. I had used these same on another boat I had built about 4 years ago I had bought off Ebay. The navagation lights diagram drawing I found in my files, I had used on same boat, just could not remember where it was until now. I used a pull pull switch. Thanx for yalls help again, good fishin.

Attachments

Baytown.boy said: ...The navagation lights diagram drawing I found in my files.... Click to expand...

jhebert said: That is a nice drawing of rectangles and lines with random colors used, but it is not an electrical drawing that makes any sense. Click to expand...

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. You run the negative leads from all the lights to the battery negative (or the negative buss under the console); the positive side for all lights goes through the switch. Same concept as in the top diagram in the thread that was linked By Don.

Supreme Mariner

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. There are four problems with the diagram. 1) A switch should not have a negative liine connected to it. Negative lines go to ground (wherever you find it -- that's not on the switch) 2) the diagram does not show "where" on the switch each wire goes. Push-pull nav light switches, just like the three, six, and seven terminal toggle or rocker switches, must be wired correctly. Your diagram does not show that. 3) Your use of red and black wires is incorrect. Red is the positive feed. Only one red wire should exit the battery (or preferably the fuse panel) INTO the switch. The red wires TO the lights runs FROM the switch TO the lights. Grounds (black wires) FROM the lights connects to a ground buss or the negative terminal of the battery. 4) You show a red line going from the battery directly to the stern light and also to the switch. Wrong! The positive line for any light comes from the switch, not directly from the battery (unless you happen to want the light on all the time).

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Ok, yes I know yall think I'm a big dummy, but I think with yalls help, I got it figured out in my mind and on paper, see diagram below, thanx again for all yalls help. Let me know if I'm wrong. The last diagram was the one I had that was wrong 4 years ago and had to change it up also.

Mar 28, 2011

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/navLightSwitch.html

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Don S. I already have the switch, just got my wires were crossed!! I was looking at an old diagram that was wrong. 4 years ago, and is still wrong. LOL All is working right now. I had a tiller motor, and now have installed a center console and steering and the boat mechanic drilled a 2" hole from the back and into the front of the rear seat filled with foam for a wiring tunnel and put in a piece of PVC pipe, and run all the cables thru to the console. Now running the bilge pump and white anchor light wires into the tunnel so I can hook them up. That is all the wires in the tunnel now. All lights, GPS, dept finder, bilge pump will go thru a fuse panel under the console and switches will be on it also. All wires will be hooked onto the troll motor battery that is under the console now. Now just have to hook up the start/choke key switch and I'm fishing. Thanx for all yalls help, Doyle

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Just to clarify --- Nobody said or even insinuated that you were a dummy. You asked for help and it was given.

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. I was laughing at myself for some dumb mistakes I make. I think the older I get, the less I know. I know I have C.R.S. disease now, LOL. I used a wiring diagram that was given to me approx 4 years ago and it was wrong then and is still wrong now. Had in an old file , the only one and just printed it, tried it and it would not work, so I asked for yalls help. I do appreciate it very much. That file has been replaced by the right version. thanx, Doyle.

Seaman Apprentice

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Where is the fuse??

Rear Admiral

Mar 31, 2011

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. I don't have a $6.00 proper switch, mine is a non proper $15.00 switch by Cole Hersee, You get what you pay for. I already had the switch, so that is what I used. Thanx for yalls help, good fishin. Found this quote in another forum. Quote: I've yet to find a switch that lasts forever in the salt environment, only ones that last longer than others. The old standard pull switches do a fine job and are simple and easy to replace. As with anything, you get what you pay for and the cheaper ones don't last a year or two before they start getting "sweet spots" where you have to jiggle them to keep the lights on. It's all because of the nature of ANY mechanical switch, there is a shaft that has a seal that will eventually let water in and wipe it out. Pull's or toggles, they all have the same issue. Toggles are gaining popularity because they can be part of the boats switch panel instead of having a lot of pull buttons all over the place. Makes a neater, cleaner installation and is easier to wire up. Sticking with the more expensive brands (Cole Hersee, Carlingswitch, Blue Seas) should give you twice the lifetime over the cheaper knock offs that don't use quality components.

May 3, 2012

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. i have a nitro bass boat and am having a problem with my nav/anc lights. front red/green light has three wires to it. white, gray, and black. the pole itself only has two pins. the switch has three terminals on it. 12V in, one for anc, and one for nav. my problem is that the front light is not grounded to battery ground. the two wires that plug into pole light both run back up to the switch. can anyone help? light used to work but now doesn't work properly. not sure what happened. does this sound even remotely right to anyone?

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Welcome to iboats henkemm You need to start a new thread with YOUR problem, not hijack someone elses thread. You need troubleshooting help not how to wire in new lights.

May 4, 2012

Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Don, not sure how to start a new thread. Looked in FAQ and didn't see anything in there about how to do this. Kinda new to the whole forum thing. Sorry. Thanks, Matt

Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
Media New media New comments
Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Mast Wiring for Dummies ...

Thread starter Scott
Start date Feb 18, 2007
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

I have to admit that electrical wiring is not my strong suit (by far) and since I am installing new lights, a new wind instrument and new coax for the VHF antenna on the mast for my winter re-fit project, I bought Dan Casey's Sailboat Electrics Simplified for guidance. A few things leave me with unanswered questions.I am planning on using a four-way plug connection to join the wiring at the mast base. I will have an anchor light drawing .83 amps (10 W) with a total round trip length from the terminal box to the top of the mast of 100', a steamer light, also .83 amps but the length is 65', and the deck light drawing 1.67 amps (20 W)with a length of 65'. Using the wire size formula for 3% voltage drop I find that the steamer and the anchor lights can be 16 guage and the deck light can be 14 guage.I assume that even though there is a break in the wiring where the deck plug is located (my mast is 33') I have calculated the round trip length as if the wire runs were continuous and independant. I thought about using primary wire to run positives up the mast to the lights and primary wire to daisy chain the negatives for the 3 lights down the mast. I reconsidered and figured I would rather use duplex safety wire because of the added insulation to the wire. I assume that for the 4-way plug to work, I would pigtail the 3 negatives into the plug and run one negative primary wire from the mast base to the terminal box. So to summarize the wiring, I will have 3 primary positive wires from the terminal box to the plug at the base of the mast, 3 duplex wires inside the mast serving the 3 lights, and one negative primary wire from the plug back to the box (about 15' one-way).So now, sizing the primary ground is my first question. If I assume the run is only 15', for 3.33 total amps it appears that a 16 guage wire is sufficient. That doesn't seem logical to me so I assumed that the formula should be used assuming the combined amps for the longest run of 100'. This leads me to a 10 guage wire. Is my logic faulty? I am assuming that ALL lights can be on at the same time (by mistake) even though it isn't logical for the anchor and the steamer to be on at the same time.Also, I thought I read that it is not a good idea to have a coax cable and an instrument cable in close proximity. I planned on putting them both inside the 1-1/4" pvc conduit that will be used to run all the wiring. Is this something that should be avoided? I figure that if the wind instument is disrupted during a vhf transmission it would be no big deal. Any comments about this?

Don S/V ILLusion

sounds correct to me ScottWire size you plan sounds right but not sure without checking voltage drop tables which it sounds like you already did.Coax is shielded cable and, with a properly tuned antenna, you should have no RF on the outside braid to interfere with any instrument wiring, regardless of how close they are.

Dan Johnson

Scott... If the 4 wire connector you are contemplating using is one of the small Perko-like screw-on plug units as found in the WM catalog, you might want to reconsider. I found the clearances extremely tight inside the plug for even 16 AWG wire, causing shorts when closed up. Consider a trailer wiring plug/socket assembly inside the mast to make for an easy mast removal the next time.

Almost there I'll concur that running coaxial next to power is fine; that's the beauty of the coaxial design, with the ground surrounding the signal.You need to account for 30' (15' X 2) on the final run to power and ground. Round-trip. Maybe 14AWG. But no need for 10AWG.Good luck.Paul

Thanks! That is what I thought about coax so I was surprised by something I thought I read. I couldn't find the reference again when I was looking last night so I probably was mistaken.My main concern was having the right size for the common ground back to the ground bus at the box when the three grounds from the lights are connected at the plug.

Mast Wiring Coax cable has no electric field outside of its shield. The field is between he conductors only - even if the antenna is not tuned properly. As far as the gauge of the wire used - 14 AGW is plenty for the grounds of all of your lights even if all of them are on at the same time. Think of the wiring in your car lights. The lights on your car are brighter and draw more current, yet you do not see any wire larger that 14 for any of the running lights. The hear light that draw 10 Amps have larger wire. The mast is already grounded to the negative side of the battery by the manufacturer, but I would still run a separate ground for all the lights on the mast. To keep the plug pins from corroding and causing bad contacts - go to an aouto store and buy the kind of dielctric paste used to water proof the spark plug caps on your card. It looks like vaseline.

Expensive grease! Joe- "go to an aouto store and buy the kind of dielctric paste used to water proof the spark plug caps on your card. It looks like vaseline. " The grease sold specifically for plugs and points is often Krytox grease, about $5 for a 1/2 ounce tube. It's great stuff, but for wiring all you need is silicone grease, aka "High temperature brake grease" "vacuum dielectric grease" and a couple of other names. In the auto stores, $3 for a single ounce tube or $5 for the big six ounce tube, I bought the big one and can afford to be generous about using it.<G> In fact I won't make any connection in the boat or car with it, I've been so impressed at the way a little bit of it keeps corrosion out of crimps and bulb sockets and battery terminals so many other things. Scott- Running all those duplex cables up the mast is a bit redundant. overkill and excess weight aloft. If you really want to splurge, there are some comapnies that sell 4-up and 5-up wiring (i.e. quadplex and quintplex, not just duplex) in one jacket. Even marine grade tinned stranded. It might take some looking to find it, but that gives you just the wires you need, in the extra jacket. Remember that the splices you make at the mast base, at the lights, and the through-deck are all subject to failure, you need to make top-quality splices and then seal them, i.e. wrap them in butyl tape to keep the water out, even if you've used grease on the pins or crimps. A little extra time and money here really pays off long term.

sand sailor

simple is the way to go i have this same project going myself the wire im using is 16awg 4plex the kind used for direct bury its rated for 600 volt i would recommend two of these up the mast with a pair to each lite make sure you grease and shrink wrap each connection(i use high temp wheel bearing grease and heat shrink tubing)the whole idea is to keep water and air from the exposed wire so oxidation wont take place good for battery terminals alsoive rewired semi trucks & trailers for years and i grease all my connections and heat shrink when possible because these things see contaminates you couldnt imagine out there on the road that your boat will never encounter and ive never had to redo them a second time

Why run 4-plex ? I have no need for 4 or more wires running to the top of the mast for one anchor light. The steamer and the deck light are midway up the mast and where I could use a 3-plex for them (2 positive, one common negative), they have different minimum guage requirements so it made more sense to me to run separate duplex cables. Although it may make sense to run the 3-plex with the larger (14 guage) wire.I considered that the bare minimum in wiring could be three primaries with the minimum guage requirement running up the mast to the respective lights and one negative primary daisy chained to the three lights down the mast, but I think the duplex wiring makes life easiest.Gregs diagram pretty much sums it up. I appreciate the comments about the size of the plug at the base of the mast. I will look at this with a more critical eye. Thanks!

Ross in Tampa

I am gonna sound stupid... I got the diagram of the mast, thank you it's awesome just what I need. I was working on my mast lights this weekend, and found out I had more of a problem than I first thought. My lights are as follows. I have a steaming light, a mast head anchor light and a spreader light on my port spreader. I was hoping that my issues were bulb related that I couldn't get my steaming light to come on with my nav lights. My anchor light has always been hit and miss, some days it's on, others not so much.I took off my steaming light and only one wire was connected. Great, found the problem, but, can't find the other end. I want to rewire the whole mast, just so I know what is what. The wiring drawing makes perfect sense to me and looks like a relatively easy weekend project. But, here is where I might sound stupid. Since the anchor light and the steaming light will never be on at the same time, but the spreader light and the steaming light could be, and the anchor light and the spreader light could be. So, obviously, they all need their own switch. Does the switch go on the postive or negative wire. (I am no electrician)Help!!!Ross in Tampa

Scott On Eagles Wings

Always break the positive Always break the positive side of a circiut with the switch. Your ground should be uninterupded. Fair Winds Scott On Eagles Wings.

Thanks Scott... That's what I thought. Thanks for the response.RE

This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

843-297-8348 [email protected]

E-Panel Builder
Fully Custom
Printed Contura II
Etched Contura V
Push Buttons
Toggle Switches
Circuit Protection
Accessories (all)
Marine Wire
Battery Switches
Mounting Panels
Plugs & Chargers
Terminal Blocks & Bus Bars
Terminals & Lugs
Deutsch Compatible Connectors
Meters & Gauges
Merch & Gift Cards
1. Panel Buyer’s Guide
2. Switch Panel Options
3. Panel Material
4. Switch Label Options
5. Printed vs. Etched Switch Covers
7. Wiring Diagrams
8. Boat Wiring Basics
9. Before and After
10. LuxMatte
Panel Projects

WIRING DIAGRAMS & GENERAL GUIDES

We stock a wide variety of marine grade switches for your boat. From the classic toggle switch, to the popular Carling V-series rocker switch, to the new Bocatech push button switches. All our switches are sealed waterproof and dustproof. They are time tested, rugged and can all withstand the harsh marine environment.

With that being said, you may need some help wiring these switches. Below we have provided the information you will need to be able to get these switches wired up.

All switch diagrams from Rockers, Pushbuttons and Toggles.

Switch wiring diagrams based on the components you are controlling with the switch.

General wiring guides for backlighting, circuit breakers and more. Spec sheets on every switch that we carry online.

We carry a variety of switches. From Carling Rocker Switches to Bocatech Pushbuttons, we have all the diagrams you will need to get your switches up and running smoothly for your next trip out on the water.

Rocker Switches: Ensure you have the correct part number to match the switch you are trying to wire, we do have quite a few switches with similar pin-outs that require different wiring!

Push Buttons: Each manufacturer uses a specific color wire for something specific in these switches, whether you are using BlueWater, Bocatech or Carling, ensure you have the correct switch function and manufacture before using the diagram.

Toggle Switches: By far the easiest switches to the wire, ensure you have the right switch function before following the diagram all the way through.

If you are unsure of the switch diagram you need, reference the part number on your order or give our Customer Service Department a call.

Components are what you are operating with the switch. We have a wide variety of diagrams for components. When wiring up the components to the switches it is important to ensure that you are wiring the switch for the correct function of the component.

For Example, Trim Tabs are either Hydraulic or Electric. Electric trim tabs require Reverse Polarity wiring, while Hydraulic can be wired as normal. There are many different Trim Tabs out there, be sure to confirm with the Manufacture or check the spec sheet before wiring.

While we may not have specific diagrams for specific component manufacturers, you can still use the diagrams for the switches as a “general” guide.

General & Spec Sheets

We have many general diagrams to choose from that may be helpful in your wiring project. Our team of engineers has created a 13-page general boat wiring diagram. This diagram is for general use and non-specific scenarios. We also have general guides on wiring the backlit switches with circuit breakers or without, as well as general guides for the switches we carry.

While we can wire the Custom Dash Panels we create with the information given, it is best to confirm with a Marine Electrician if you have specific wiring questions. If you need someone in your area, check out our Local Installers page to find someone near you.

We know how important it is to make sure a product is going to work for you. We have listed all of the Spec Sheets for our switches and breakers in this section. We have also included hole cut sizes, how to cut our materials and more.

If you have specific questions, feel free to reach out to our Customer Service Department.

IMAGES

Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide
Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide
Properly Light Sailboat At Night
Know Which Navigation Lights are Required for Your Boat
Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide
Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide

VIDEO

The dashboard fault light diagram that drivers must know! #drivingcourse #mechanic#cars #car
Light wind sailing in a GP14
Sailboat Racing Tips: Light Wind Lake Sailing
Auto Night Light Diagram Circuit #simplecircuit #shorts
New lights on the old wakeboat project #wakeboat #lights #boat #boatlife #boatrestoration
Installing Mandatory Boat Lights Super Fast and Easy!

COMMENTS

Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)
As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead ...
Navigation Lights : BoatUS Foundation
On any vessel, navigation lights have a specific color, (white, red, green, yellow, blue), arc of illumination, range of visibility, and location, as required by law and regulations. For the purposes of this course, we will concentrate on pleasure boats under 65 feet in length. Knowledge of navigation lights is important to a small-boat skipper ...
Boat Navigation Lights Rules: Illustrated Beginners Guide
For most small vessels, motoring requires red and green (port and starboard) lights, and a white light visible in all directions around the boat. This is almost always a stern light and a masthead light on sailboats. Boats under sail require port and starboard lights, and a white stern light. Sailboats below sixty-five feet may show a tricolor ...
Ultimate Guide To Marine Navigation Lighting
Boat Navigation Light Regulations. Several rules and specifications are related to the type, size, layout, arc, and distance of visibility of boat navigation lights used by all vessel types which are collectively known as the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea or COLREGs.The navigational lights used are known as 'COLREG lights and shapes.
Lights and shapes for marine navigation.
Rule 29, duty shall exhibit: at or near the masthead, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being white and the lower red; when underway, in addition, sidelights and a sternlight; as shown in the example below. Pilot boat, shorter than 50 m. Abeam, starboard side.
Understanding Boat Navigation Lights
Phone: (479)339-4795. Email: [email protected]. Boat navigation lights are essential when you're out on the water. They're essential, but it's easy to misunderstand their uses and correct placements. If you don't know the correct placement for your stern lights or know what type of navigation light you need on your mast, don't ...
Navigation Lights : BoatUS Foundation
A sailboat under sail alone does not have the 3 NM requirement for the masthead light. At anchor, both power and sail less than 65 feet must have a 2 NM all 'round white light. For an interactive lighting requirement diagram check out the Coast Guard's Navigation Center. Testing Procedures - True Colors
Boat Navigation Lights: Types & Location
All-around white light - 360 degrees visable from two miles. Sidelights — 112.5 degrees visible from one mile. If your boat is greater than 39.4 feet but less than 65.6 feet, or 20 meters, you need the following set of navigation lights: A masthead light is a white light at the front of the boat. The masthead light needs to be visible across ...
Boat Lighting
Vessel length: 12 meters to 20 meters (39.4 FT. to 65.6 FT.) Lighting requirement: A white masthead light located at the front of the boat, pointing in the direction you are traveling. This must be visible at 225 degrees and from two miles away. The masthead light must be positioned at least 8 feet above the gunnel.
Know Which Navigation Lights are Required for Your Boat
The basic rule is that sidelights and a stern light are required. Permissible variations to this rule appear below. Sailboats less than 20m (65.7') can substitute a tricolor light for separate sidelights and stern light—or a bi-color light and a stern light may be substituted. Sailboats less than 7m (23') shall, if practicable, exhibit lights ...
Installing navigation lights on a boat
In this video I install a set of navigation lights on a boat. We start by going through some of the theory behind the angle navigation lights should shine an...
PDF Specialty Wiring and Instructional Guide for: A Boat's Navigation and
where both lights are required to be on at night, when the boat is moving but only the anchor light is required when the boat is at anchor. For the purposes of this guide, both your red and green lights will be considered "Nav" lights, and the white stern or hardtop light will be considered the "Anc" light. Rev- 16 APR 2016 VJD2-U66B ...
Beginner Boat Wiring Basics
In this video, we'll be covering the basics of boat wiring. We'll be installing navigation lights, the anchor light, courtesy lights, bilge pump, livewell pu...
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Wire Boat Lights with a Diagram
A boat light wiring diagram is a valuable tool that can help you understand the electrical connections required to power your boat's lights. This article will provide a comprehensive guide on boat light wiring diagrams, giving you a step-by-step breakdown of the different components and their connections. We'll cover the necessary equipment ...
Navigation Light Switching for Vessels Under 20 Meters
ABYC standards state that one switch, or position of a switch, will turn on all of the navigation lights required for the vessel while underway. Another switch, or position of a switch, will turn on the anchor light. This allows the use of either 2 switches or a 3 position switch with one off position. A bicolor light with a 135° stern light ...
Navigation and Anchor Light Rocker Switch Wiring Guide
Products In Video:Contura II Nav/Anc Switch: https://newwiremarine.com/product/nav-anc-rocker-switch-contura-ii/In this video wiring guide, we show how to wi...
Basic Electrcity How to Wire The Eletrical System On Your Boat
Navigation Lights: I added this section because many people asked for it. Wiring Navigation Lights for boats with combination red/green bow lights and an anchor/sternlight on a pole. I have been asked many times if there is a standard wiring diagram for hooking up the lights on a small outboard or inboard boat.
Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)
The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.
Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights
4,292. Mar 28, 2011. #16. Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. In the event you decide to go with the proper 3 position switch (NAV-OFF-ANC), here is the diagram you should use. I recommend going with a marine rated switch instead of a 3 position push/pull. The proper switch is only $6.00 or so.
How To Wire A Boat
Even a small boat (3-5 loads) we'd recommend at least 12AWG wire for this. 10AWG for larger boats (5-10 loads) is normal. 8AWG is getting toward over-kill in most cases for boats under 30ft. Remember these are all generalities, there are many valid reasons to make exceptions.
Mast Wiring for Dummies ...
Joe. Feb 25, 2007. #6. Mast Wiring. Coax cable has no electric field outside of its shield. The field is between he conductors only - even if the antenna is not tuned properly. As far as the gauge of the wire used - 14 AGW is plenty for the grounds of all of your lights even if all of them are on at the same time.
Installing LED Deck Lights on a Boat
When it comes to installing LED lights on a boat, it can be intimidating. However for the most part it is a very simple process. These BluewaterLED Extreme P...
Wiring Diagrams (new)
WIRING DIAGRAMS & GENERAL GUIDES We stock a wide variety of marine grade switches for your boat. From the classic toggle switch, to the popular Carling V-series rocker switch, to the new Bocatech push button switches. All our switches are sealed waterproof and dustproof. They are time tested, rugged and can all withstand the harsh

The USCG says You’re a Power Boat Whether You Like It or Not

Navigation Lights for a Power Boat

Sailboats get a little flexibility with lights

Red over Green Sailing Machine

What is a “steaming light” and why are you mentioning it now?

Aspect Recognition with Lights

Most Recent

What Does "Sailing By The Lee" Mean?

The Best Sailing Schools And Programs: Reviews & Ratings

Similar Posts

How To Choose The Right Sailing Instructor

Cost To Sail Around The World

How To Drive A Pontoon Boat

Popular Posts

Best Liveaboard Catamaran Sailboats

Can a Novice Sail Around the World?

4 Best Electric Outboard Motors

How Long Did It Take The Vikings To Sail To England?

10 Best Sailboat Brands (And Why)

7 Best Places To Liveaboard A Sailboat

Ultimate Guide To Marine Navigation Lighting

Marine Navigational Lights, Rules and Regulations

Position of Boat Navigation Lights

Boat Navigation Light Regulations

Similar Posts

The Exxon Valdez Oil Spill Incident

13 Major Oil Spills Of The Maritime World

Ancient Seaports of India

Automatic Identification System

What Are Houseboats?

What Is A Lightship?

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Lights and shapes

Definitions

Colour legend

Power-driven vessel underway

Sailing vessels underway and vessels under oars

4 lights configurations sailing

Sailing and Motoring

Towing an inconspicuous, partly submerged object

Pushing from ahead or towing alongside

Fishing – Trawling

Trawling in span

Fishing, other than trawling

Purse seining

Constrained by draught

Not under command

Restricted in her ability to manoeuvre

Dredging or underwater operations

Small diving vessel

Hovercraft, hydrofoil ferry

Minesweeper

Understanding Boat Navigation Lights

What navigation lights are required on a boat?

Powered Vessels

Sailing Vessels and Vessels Under Oars

Shapes and Lights

Anchored Vessels

Sailing Vessels Under Power

Restricted Maneuverability

Where do navigation lights go on a boat?

Which navigation lights are you required to display when anchoring your boat for the night?

About Chris

Robert Hogward on September 12, 2021

Dalton Bourne on July 26, 2022

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

More in nauticalknowhow

How to Tie a Boat to a Dock

How to Clean a Boat Cover

Everything You Need to Know About Your Boat’s Bilge Pump

4 Ways to Tie Your Boat Shoes

The People’s Poncho Review and Ratings

Oru Lake Kayak Review

What Is A Gunwale?

131 of the Best Hawaiian Boat Names

167 Patriotic Boat Names

Contact Boatsafe

Site Navigation

Our Reviews

Boat Navigation Light Types & Requirements