The arc of the lights and color allows you to determine the direction a boat is moving. How good are your boat’s lights? You should test them to check your nighttime visibility, or you might land yourself in hot water with the Coast Guard.
Whether on a trailer or at the marina, switch on your lights and see how well they can be seen. Walk away from the boat or row away, if you are at anchor or at a mooring, and see how visible the lights are as you move further away. How easy are they to see against the background of lights onshore?
Does your stern light shine dead astern over the required 135º arc or does it shine to one side or up or down? Can it be seen from the required 2 miles and why is that important? As an example, let’s say that your stern lights can only be seen for 1/2 mile. You are underway at 8 knots and a large ship is approaching at 15 knots. The ship is only 4 minutes away from a collision with you. By the time the ship “might” see you, identify the light, and decide on how to move, it is too late. A ship traveling at 15 knots may take miles to stop.
Look at the stern lights again, as you move from the stern toward the bow, does the stern light “disappear” as the sidelight “appears”? The stern light should disappear and sidelight appear at 22.5º abaft the beam. If you don’t see the green starboard sidelight or the red port side light when the stern light disappears there is a problem with the arc of one or all these lights. This means that if another boat were approaching you at the angle where no lights are seen there is an increased risk of collision.
If both the stern lights and side lights are seen brightly at the same time you still have a problem. A boat approaching won’t know whether they are overtaking or crossing and whether they should give-way or stand-on.
You should also check to make sure that your masthead light disappears at the same time each side lights disappear and they both disappear when the stern light appears.
Check your sidelights from dead ahead. You should see both red and green. However, by moving toward one side just 1-3º you should then see only one light. If you still see two lights, an approaching boat won’t be able to tell which direction you’re are going.
It is very important to be seen from a distance but also for an approaching boat to be able to determine your direction of travel.
When boating at night remember the following: “When two lights you see ahead, turn your helm and show your red”.
Outdoors, I’m in my element, especially in the water. I know the importance of being geared up for anything. I do the deep digital dive, researching gear, boats and knowhow and love keeping my readership at the helm of their passions.
Categories : nauticalknowhow
Thanks for writing this post. I can either place them on the exterior or interior for decorations. Placing them on the exterior side is helpful when I go fishing and indulging in other night activities in the water.
We love the lights! We put lights from Seaponer on my Jon boat right above the water line and use them for night fishing! The amount of brightness it offers is an assurance of my boat’s being seen clearly during the night. At the same time, the LED lights don’t consume too much energy, leading to a life span of up to 50,000 hours.
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Related products.
The possible switch configurations for navigation lights vary greatly depending on the vessel size, type, and purpose. This article addresses the most common configurations for smaller vessels.
ABYC standards state that one switch, or position of a switch, will turn on all of the navigation lights required for the vessel while underway. Another switch, or position of a switch, will turn on the anchor light. This allows the use of either 2 switches or a 3 position switch with one off position.
The most common configurations of lights are:
these can be broken down into 3 combinations:
Combination | Navigation Lights | Anchor Light | Steaming Light | Figure # |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | DPST | SPST | * | 1 |
A | DPDT | * | * | 2 |
B (Power Boat) | SPST | SPST | * | 3 |
B (Power Boat) | SPDT | * | * | 4 |
B (Sailboat) | SPST | SPST | SPST | 5 |
B (Sailboat) | DPDT | SPST | * | 6 |
C | SPST | SPST | SPST | 7 |
C | SPDT | SPST | * | 8 |
*included in navigation lights switch **includes navigation lights excluding masthead tri-color
SPST – Single Pole Single Throw | |
SPDT – Single Pole Double Throw (Center Off) | |
DPST – Double Pole Single Throw | |
DPDT – Double Pole Double Throw (Center Off) |
The following illustrations use a bicolor, but two sidelights can be substituted for it in the diagram. All of the double throw switches are "Center Off".
Everything Boat Building Don't tell me that I can't. Tell me how I can. | ||
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I am not a spokesperson for the US Coast Guard or ABYC. For an official interpretation of regulations or standards you must contact the US Coast Guard or other organization referenced.. | ||
or; Contact and the to get the latest standards for Electrical systems. Info about ; Or go to the Basic Electricity Pages below. | ||
What you need to know to install or re-wire the electrical system on your boat. a step-by-step practical guide. covers planning, diagrams, wiring, batteries, over current protection and more..
I want to thank Ed Sherman for reviewing this page for accuracy.
A question often asked on boating and boat building forums, and by visitors to my web site, is: “I need a simple wiring diagram for a small outboard boat to wire up the lights and few other things, but no one seems to have one. Is there one, and where can I find it? Are there a set of step-by-step instructions?”
There are wiring diagrams, websites and forums that tell you how to wire an electrical system for large boats and bigger sailboats. But when it comes to small boats there is a distinct lack of information and diagrams for how to install a simple, safe, and reliable electrical system.
The following is meant to apply only to small outboard boats under 16 feet with 50 or 60 horsepower or less. It can be applied to slightly larger boats that have a simple 12V DC system using one or two 12V batteries.
Note 1 : I will not deal with the wiring specifically for the outboard motor and controls. Here is a web site where you can obtain wiring diagrams for most outboard motors. Most new outboards come with a wiring harness and a manual that has wiring diagrams. See Master Tech Marine Outboard Wiring Diagrams .
Note 2: If you are re-wiring a boat with an electrical system installed: Don't rip out that old system yet ! Use the old system to help make a plan in steps 1 through 7. Trace out each wire and put that on your diagram. This will make it far easier to locate wires and equipment. Wait until you actually start installing wiring in step 12. Then replace each set of wires with new. This may take a little more time, but will result in far fewer mistakes and less troubleshooting.
Note 3: Throughout this I will give references to the US Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) requirements that apply to boat manufacturers, and to the American Boat and Yacht Council industry standards. Examples: 33 CFR 183.401, or ABYC E-11. The US Coast Guard Regulations (the CFR) and the ABYC standards are good guidelines to follow for a safe and reliable electrical system. They are used by marine electricians, professional boatbuilders, designers, marine surveyors, and marine repairers. If that’s how the pros do it, so should you.
Step 1. Make a Plan. Decide what you want to install, and where it will go. See Electrical Planning
Step 2. Draw a simple electrical schematic (diagram) that shows each piece of equipment, the fuses, switches, and how all of this will be connected. This is not a diagram of where the equipment is located on the boat. That will come in Step 8. It is simply a diagram of the electrical circuits. Here are two alternative examples. (Click on the diagram to expand.) The first diagram uses a positive buss bar. The second omits the positive buss bar. For clarity I did not use color codes except red (positive) and black (negative).
Do not be concerned if you don’t know electrical symbols. Just make a box or circle and write in what it is, or you can use a picture of the item. As long as you understand what goes where, and how they are connected, it’s Ok. Remember, any 12V DC device must have at least a positive and negative wire connected to it. Put a plus or minus next to the wire or use red for positive and black for negative. On metal boats do not use the hull as a return (negative) path. Connecting your electrical system to a metal hull can result in stray current corrosion.
See also BoatUS diagram:
There are several ways to draw wiring diagrams. The most important thing is that you understand what you are diagraming. It needs to be simple enough and clear enough for you to be able to refer to it in the future and still understand what each item is, what the wiring is and how each item of equipment is connected to the electrical system. That way, in the future if you want to add or subtract equipment you can do so by referring to your diagram and determining where and how the new item fits into the system.
Step 3. Batteries: Decide where you will put the battery. Later we will decide the capacity and type of battery but for now we only need to decide where to put it.
The battery is the source of power for starting, instrumentation, and lighting. There may be a second battery on some boats for running a trolling motor or other equipment.
Batteries should not be too close to anything that can cause an accidental short. There should be 12 inches of space all around them. Batteries must not be directly under or over fuel lines or under other electrical equipment such as a charger or inverter. If they are, there must be a floor or panel separating them. ABYC E-10.7.5 and 10.7.6 Storage Batteries
Batteries need to be in a space that is ventilated to the atmosphere. 33 CFR 183.420(e) This applies to all batteries, not just lead/acid batteries.
Batteries must not move, so they have to be fastened down. 33 CFR 183.420(a)
There should be a tray under a battery for spilled electrolyte, or it should be in a battery box, and fastened down so it won’t move under any conditions. (ABYC E-10.7.2) The Coast Guard does not require a tray or a battery box but ABYC does require some means to contain spills. If it is strapped down in a tray, spilled acid won’t damage the boat and the battery won’t move. The terminals need to be covered with a boot or some other device that protects them from accidental contact with metal tools. But, if the battery is in a box the terminals are protected against accidental contact with tools, spills are contained, and it won’t move.
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The battery should be close to the engine. Since starting current is so high, and the wires to the starter are not fused, you want to keep the wires as short as is practical.
The battery should be a combo starting/deep cycle battery, usually sold as a marine battery. An auto battery would do for starting and lights. But, for running a radio, and other electronics while anchored or fishing, a battery with a little deep cycle capacity is needed so the battery doesn’t go flat and leave you stranded when you try to restart the engine.
How big a battery (capacity, not physical size) do you need? That depends on the amount of load on the battery. I will show how to determine that in Step 12.
There is one non-electrical consideration; weight. Lead acid batteries can weigh up to 50 lb. Think about how the weight of the battery will affect weight distribution on your boat, especially if it is on the same side as the helm and controls. You may have to move it to balance the boat side to side. If you have a very low transom, how will the weight of the battery affect the water line at the transom?
Step 4. Battery Switch: Some people think that a battery switch is not necessary on a small boat. I think a battery switch is necessary to turn everything off when you are not using the boat.
Where the battery is located determines where the battery switch goes. It should be close to the battery but easily accessible to be switched off in an emergency. ABYC E-11.6.2.
A good brand is Perko but there are others. Avoid any battery switch that is not UL Marine Listed. There are cheap ones on the market that are not UL listed and can get hot and melt.
A battery switch must be ignition protected. (33 CFR 183.410)
Ignition protection means that it will not ignite gas fumes if they are present. This is extremely important if you have a gasoline fuel tank in the same compartment as the battery.
Use only ignition protected electrical components. You don't want anything in there that will set fuel vapors off. Batteries are not considered a source of ignition because there are no moving parts, but if you make accidental contact with metal tools it can create an arc. So, the terminals must be protected, and battery switches and other electrical equipment in this compartment must be ignition protected.
Buy a switch that has a provision for two batteries because you may want to add a battery in the future. The switch will have three positions. OFF, 1, 2, and BOTH. The 1 position connects the one battery and allows charging of that battery when the engine is running (if your outboard is large enough to have an alternator). The 2 position connects and charges the second battery, if there is one, and the BOTH position puts the two batteries in parallel doubling the battery capacity and charging both at the same time. You won’t need the BOTH and 2 positions now, but this gives you the option to add a second battery.
Step 5. Fuses: Next, install a fuse block close to the battery switch. Fuses must be within seven inches of the source of power (33 CFR 183.455) but you can go up to forty inches if the wire is sheathed. Standard wire loom is fine as a sheath. Be aware, the fuse is there to protect the wire, not the equipment. If you overload wiring it gets hot, melts and starts a fire. We will determine the size of the fuse later. See Step 12. Buy a fuse block with two fuse holders. That way you have a spare if the fuse blows. This is generally a good idea. When installing fuse blocks get ones with more fuse holders than you think you need. You will need them eventually. One or two extra fuse holders is good.
Step 6. Equipment Location: Determine where each piece of equipment will be.
Think about where you want things to go. Depth finders need to be where they are easy to see, but not blocking your vision when operating the boat. Radios should be where they can be easily reached, and for VHF, reach the mike. The back of the console or surface you are mounting them on needs to be easily accessible for access to the wiring.
Step 7 . Locate the fuses, buss bars and switch panels.
Decide where to put fuse boxes, buss bars, switch panels, etc. Each of these must be close to the equipment they power, and easily accessible to be worked on. They cannot be hidden behind equipment or inaccessible panels. This may sound obvious, but I have seen some very bad installations. Also, they should be protected from spray or rain.
Most electrical and electronic equipment comes with pigtails. Pigtails are wires coming out of the equipment and may only be a few inches to several feet long. Sometimes they have a connector attached to the ends of the wire. When determining where stuff goes consider the length of the pigtails, because you don’t want a rat’s nest of wires hanging loose.
Switch boxes: A box or panel where switches can be mounted to control stuff. On a small outboard boat this is usually the dash or the console.
Fuse block: A panel with fuse sockets on it. It can be open or covered.
Buss bar: A block with studs for connecting wires.
A Battery Switch | FuseBlock | Buss Bar |
Typical Buss Bar: This buss bar is for the negative wires. The large wire on the left is the battery negative.
There are some devices that are connected directly to the source of power and do not go through fuse blocks and switches. They need to always have power. One is the bilge pump. Bilge pumps may have a float switch that automatically turns the pump on when water in the bilge gets to a preset height. This won’t work if the pump is not wired directly to the battery. It is not good practice to wire it directly to the battery though. Wire it to the power input side of the battery switch. It is good to install a switch at the helm that turns the pump on manually.
If your boat has an anchor light, you may also want to wire the switch for the light directly to the power input side of the battery switch. That way you can turn on the anchor light when the battery switch is off.
Step 8. Make a diagram of the boat showing where the wiring, equipment and fuse blocks will be located.
Make a rough drawing of the boat looking down from the top. This is called a general arrangement and shows how the boat is laid out. Using your electrical schematic, put in where the equipment, fuse boxes, buss bars, switch boxes and wiring are going to go. Check this against the actual boat to make sure you aren’t missing something.
Wiring cannot go through pieces of equipment, pipes, tubes, and other solid objects. They can go through walls and bulkheads and panels. Wiring must be easily accessible for installation, trouble shooting and replacement. It must be fastened down at least every 18 inches (ABYC 11.15.4.1.9) so it isn’t rubbing or chafing on something. Where wiring goes through a bulkhead, wall or panel, it must have a grommet or padding to protect the wire. 33 CFR 183.445(a)
Your diagram may look something like this; (Click on image to expand)
Step 9. Wiring: Figure out how much wire you need, what size wire you need, and what color it should be. Wire standards.
What about the wires from the battery switch to the starter? The wire needs to be a very heavy gauge, at least a 4 AWG on small outboard boats, because starters draw a lot of current. Both the positive and negative wires should be the same size. If the outboard has the wires for the starter already installed, the wires from the battery to the switch should be the same size as those wires. The engine manufacturer has determined the amount of amperage the starter draws and correctly sized the wires for the load.
The positive wire (red) goes from the battery to the input side of the battery switch. The negative (black) wire goes to a buss bar. One post on the buss is for the wire from battery to the engine block (ground). Another wire goes from the buss up forward to the dash. The others are for other equipment. There should be as many terminal posts as you need plus a few extra.
Color Codes: The positive wire should be red. Negative can be black, or yellow, or black with a yellow stripe. Throughout the boat negative wires should be black or yellow or a combination. AT the dash or console, all positive wires from the fuse block to the instruments and the equipment, should be color coded using the standard color codes for marine wiring. Direct Current Color Codes: From ABYC E-11.15.2.3 Table 11 and Table 12.
Direct Current Color Codes: From ABYC E-11.15.2.3 Table 11 and Table 12.
Green | DC Grounding Conductor | Bonding Wires (insulated) |
Yellow or Black | DC Negative Conductor | Negative Mains |
Red | DC Positive | Positive Mains |
Yellow/Red | Starting Circuit | Starting Switch to Solenoid |
Brown/Yellow | Bilge Blowers | Fuse or Switch to Blower |
Dark Gray | Navigation Lights | Circuit Breakers or Switch To Lights |
Dark Gray | Tachometer | Tachometer Gauges and Senders |
Brown | Generator Armature | Generator Armature to Regulator |
Brown | Alternator Charge Light | Generator Terminal or Alternator Aux Terminal to Regulator |
Brown | Pumps | Circuit Breakers or Switch to Pumps |
Orange | Accessory Feed | Amp Mtr to Alt or Gen Output Acc Circuit Breaker Switches |
Orange | Common Feed | Distribution Panels To Accessory Switches |
Purple | Ignition | Ignition Switch to Coil Electrical Instrument |
Purple | Instrument Feed | Distribution Panel To Electrical Instruments |
Purple | Main Power Feed | Positive Mains (particularly un-fused) |
Dark Blue | Cabin and Instruments | Circuit Breakers or Switch to Lights |
Light Blue | Oil Pressure | Oil Pressure Gauges & Senders |
Tan | Water Temp | Water Temp To Sender To Gauge |
Pink | Fuel Gauge | Fuel Gauge Sender to Gauge |
Green/stripe | Tilt Down/Trim in | Tilt and Trim Circuits |
Blue/Stripe | Tilt Up/Trim Out | Tilt and Trim Circuits |
Color codes tell you what the wire is for. But label the wire on both ends. A simple piece of tape with a name written on it will do. They do not need to be fancy labels, but if you prefer, you can buy labels at electrical suppliers or hardware stores.
Wire must be marine wire. (33 CFR Sec. 183.435) Do not use auto wire. It is not made to the same standards as marine. Most marine wire is labeled UL 1426. It must be copper stranded wire. It does not have to be tinned, although tinned wire will last longer. On a small boat it is not necessary. Do not scrimp on wire though! Cheap wire could mean the difference between a reliable system and one that you constantly have trouble with. Buy good quality wire. I have seen 100 ft spools of Ancor 16 AWG Tinned Marine Wire for sale on-line for as little as $24.00 USD.
What size wire? American Wire Gauge (AWG) is in reverse order. The larger the number, the thinner the wire. The thickest wires are 00 or 0 AWG. The smallest gauge allowed on boats for a single wire is 16 AWG, or 18 AWG if it’s in a bundle or sheath (33CFR 183.425), but this may be way too thin for the equipment or the length of the wire run. The only exception to this is wire inside electronic devices or part of the electronic controls on the engine. 33 CFR 183.425(g)
The thicker a wire is, the less resistance it has. The longer a wire, the more resistance it has, and so there is a larger voltage drop. You want to minimize the resistance and the voltage drop. So you first need to figure out the wire size based on how many amps are being used, and then by how long the wire is. Use the tables in Appendix A, at the end of this page, to determine the correct size. Don't just guess at wire size and buy larger diameter wire such as 14 or 12 AWG. See Wire Size:
For the purpose of determining wire size, the fuse block the wire is coming from is considered the source of power. For the wires running from the battery to the starter, or to the under-dash fuse block, the battery is the source of power. In the two examples below the fuse block under the dash or console is the source of power.
Here is an example:
A Hummingbird Model 345C depth sounder draws 380ma (milliamps from the specifications). The installation includes a 6 foot power cable of 18 AWG wire. This may be fine for connecting it to a fuse block near the dash. But we need to size the cable running from the battery to the dash. It is going to be at least 10-12 feet long on a 16 foot boat. Double that length for the negative return wire.
Use table 3 in The Appendix for voltage drop. Most boat manufactures use wire rated for 105C (degrees Celsius - the temperature rating of the insulation on the wire). Looking at the table under the column for 105C we see amperages starting at 20 amps, 25 amps, 30 amps, and so on. Following the row for 20 amps to the left column we find 18 AWG.
From the table on voltage drop an 18 AWG wire 20-24 feet long (30 feet in the table) with a 15-ampere load will have less than a 10% voltage drop. But it can only be 18 if it’s in a sheath or bundle. So go up one size to 16 AWG.
Another Example:
Suppose I have three electronics running off a fuse block in the dash or console. Each piece of equipment requires 1 amp at 12 volts to run. The total amperage for the three items is 3 amps. From the fuse block in the dash or console to each item of equipment, there is a positive wire from the fuse to the equipment, and a negative wire running back to the buss. Using 1 ampere, we determine the size the wire should be, by using table 1 and 3 in Appendix A. For instance, if the positive wire is two feet long then the total length of positive and negative wires is 4 feet. Looking at the Table 1, the line for 18 AWG wire at 105C allows up to 20 amps.
So, we could use 18 AWG. Look at Table 3. We see that an 18 AWG wire, 10 feet long, will have less than a 10% voltage drop for up to 5 amperes. Again, we could use 18 AWG but since 18 AWG wire has to be in a bundle or a sheath we add a level of safety by using 16 AWG.
This is done using the tables developed by the US Coast Guard and ABYC. You don’t have to know any formulas to figure it out. The first table determines the wire size based on the load in amps and the second table the size depending on length and voltage drop. You use the larger wire if there is a difference.
See the table in Appendix A at the bottom of this page. or ELECTRICAL TABLE: 33 CFR 183.42: ALLOWABLE AMPERAGE OF CONDUCTORS FOR UNDER 50 VOLTS or: ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS VOLTAGE DROP
Step 10. Wiring tools. Wire connections (terminals). See Connectors :
Tools: Use good quality tools, especially good quality crimpers and wire strippers. Cheap crimpers make bad crimps. Bad crimps make bad connections. Poor wire strippers nick the metal conductor which may cause the wire to break or have a high resistance. See My Page on Practical:
Wire terminals must be used . Connections should never be a bare wire wrapped around a stud or post. This is bad practice, and can easily come loose or result in a high resistance connection. High resistance equals heat, which results in fire. Never use wire nuts to connect wires on a boat! They are prone to vibration and corrosion. ABYC E-11.15.3.7 Twist-on connectors (i.e., wire nuts) shall not be used.
Use crimp type ring or captive spade terminals. Captive spade terminals have a tang on the ends. This prevents them from being pulled off or slipping off the stud or post. Connections must resist being pulled off. In the ABYC wire standard there is a table listing how much of a pull they must withstand depending on the size of the wire. A 16 AWG wire must withstand a ten lb. pull. A 4 AWG wire must withstand a 70lb pull.
You can solder connections if you like but crimp them first . ABYC standards do not prohibit soldering, but they do not allow soldering to be the sole source of support for the connection. (ABYC E-11.5.3.8) This is because solder creates a hard spot in the wire which is not as flexible as the wire itself and not as resistant to flexing and vibration. So, if you solder you must also crimp. Crimp first, then solder.
Seal wire connections with a good waterproof sealant , usually marketed as dielectric grease. There is no requirement to do this, but it prevents water from getting in the connection and wicking up the inside of the wire insulation or corroding the connector.
My method. I do not solder. First I slide a short length of heat shrink tubing onto the wire. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing How long it is depends on the wire and connector size. Usually if the tubing extends about 1/2 inch (1 centimeter) beyond the end of the connector, that is enough. Then I use dielectric grease. See Wikipedia on Dielectric grease . Dielectric grease is non-conductive grease, usually silicone that is also waterproof and can be used to seal connectors. Before crimping the wire in the connector, I squirt a little dielectric grease into the connector where the wire goes. I then insert the wire and crimp it. Then I slide the tubing down over the connector and shrink it with a heat gun or hair drier so it seals itself around the wire and connector. The combination of grease and heat shrink tubing should keep the water out.
Heat Shrink Tubing And Connectors, AAA protection, How to install and repair. http://youtu.be/jCRsx38WRw8
How to get a good crimp: Marine How to: Wire terminations: https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/
Step 11. Fuses . How big should your fuses be?
Fuses are rated by amperage and protect the wire from overheating and fire. Fuses must be rated at the same or less rating of the wire. If you have a wire that is rated at 15 amps you need a 15 amp fuse. Each circuit is rated for a certain amperage, such as 15 amps or 20 amps, and more equipment is not added to the circuit if it would cause it to draw more current than the fuse is rated for.
This can become an issue on little boats too if you have more equipment, or something like a powerful stereo system that draws a lot of amperage. Then it should have its own circuit and its own fuse for the circuit.
The question is how many fuses in the block? That depends on how much stuff you are running. I would have a fuse for the lights, one for the instrumentation, and one for any electronic devices, plus a spare. That is four. But for expansion maybe a six or 8 fuse block would be better. Again, in the future you won’t have to buy a new block. See Overcurrent Protection:
Step 12. Installing equipment .
Start with the battery, the battery switch, and the main fuse block.
Selecting a Battery: Batteries are rated by voltage and capacity. We are using a 12V battery. There are two ratings, CCA and MCA See Batteries at:
CCA Means Cold Cranking Amps. MCA means Marine Cranking Amps. These are measures of how many amps the battery can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain the voltage at 12V. Basically the higher the CCA rating the longer the battery will maintain its voltage. Batteries are also rated by amp-hours. 1 amp for 1 hour is 1 amp-hr. Generally the rating is based on how many amps the battery will discharge for 20 hours until the charge drops to 10.5 volts. The higher the amp hour rating, the longer the battery will power your equipment. Also, batteries are rated for Reserve Capacity which is how many minutes it will deliver the same voltage at 80 degrees. An average marine battery should have a Reserve Capacity of 60 to 90 minutes. Anything less is not adequate.
There are four types of batteries commonly used on boats, Wet Cell (also called lead acid, flooded, or flooded lead acid, and sometimes abbreviated FLA), AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat), Gel, and Lithium, but for now I’ll stick with the standard wet-cell battery. They are relatively inexpensive, can be purchased anywhere, and for a small boat, more than adequate. A battery with a CCA or MCA rating of 200-300 should do but we’ll determine that when we calculate the loads. See table below on how to calculate loads. Battery Capacity should be at least twice the load.
To calculate loads, list the equipment you are planning on installing. In the chart below the following items are listed. Navigation lights Bilge Pump Radio (Only when receiving) Depth Sounder engine electrical Instruments GPS Bait well pump Horn Radio TX. (VHF Marine radio. It draws more when transmitting)
Determine from the specifications for each item what the current load is in amps. Separate them into continuous loads (on all the time) and intermittent loads (only on when used). Determine how many hours they will be used. Multiply the amps times the hours to get amp hours. Add up the amp hours.
See Also Electrical Planning
Continuous Loads | Intermittent loads | Total | ||||||
Item | amps | hours | Amp Hours | item | amps | hours | Amp Hours | |
Nav Lts | 1 | 8 | 8 | Horn | 1 | 0.25 | 0.25 | |
Bilge Pump | 2 | 8 | 16 | |||||
Radio | 1 | 8 | 8 | Radio Tx | 6 | 0.5 | 3 | |
Depth Sndr | 0.5 | 8 | 4 | |||||
Engine | 2 | 16 | 32 | |||||
Instruments | 1 | 8 | 8 | |||||
GPS | 1 | 8 | 8 | |||||
Bait Well | 2 | 8 | 16 | |||||
Totals | 10.5 | 100 | 7 | 3.25 | 100.3 |
Double the result to determine what the rating of the battery should be. For this case, 200.
Another consideration is the battery group size. Batteries come in different physical sizes. A Group 24 battery is 10 ¼ inches by 6 13/16 inches by 8 7/8 inches. A Group 27 battery is 12 1/6 inches by 6 13/16 by 8 7/8 inches. The physical size is determined mainly by how much space you have for the battery and its weight. A bigger battery weighs more. A large group size does not necessarily mean it will last longer. That is determined by the battery ratings for amp hours and reserve capacity. The most commonly used size on small boats is Group 27.
Install the battery box if you are using one, or a tray, then the battery. Now that you have installed a battery you can begin installing equipment. Install lights and electronic equipment. You want everything in place before you begin wiring. Put in switch panels and fuse blocks.
From Step 5, we need to determine the size of the main fuse at the battery. The continuous loads add up to 10.5 amps. The fuse in a DC circuit should be about 150% of the load so a 15 amp would be appropriate. (ABYC E-11.10.1.5.)
The fuses for each circuit of our example should be at least 3 amps except for the VHF radio because on transmit it draws 6 amps. So, use a 10 amp fuse for the radio circuit. Check the manufacturer's installation instructions for recommended fuse sizes for each piece of equipment. Remember, this fuse is to protect the wire to the equipment, not the equipment. Some equipment may have built in or in-line fuses for that purpose.
Step 13. Installing Wire:
Begin installing wire, starting at the battery and working outward to each fuse block and buss bar, and then on to each piece of equipment. Remember to follow the color codes and label the wires on both ends. If you decide to make any variations from your diagrams make sure you change the diagram for future reference.
Step 14. Turn on the power. Test by turning on each item, one at a time, to see if it works. Troubleshoot as you go. If there is a problem, fix it before you proceed. Once everything has been tested individually, turn on everything, one at a time, until everything is on. If a fuse blows or something doesn’t work the last item you turned on is where the problem lies. Turn everything off, fix it and then try again from the beginning.
An Excellent Article: Avoiding Boat Electrical Mistakes by Ed Sherman; Boat US Magazine https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2016/august/avoiding-boat-electrical-mistakes
An excellent article by Owen Youngblood on Wiring Your Boat , from the Metal Boat Quarterly
How to Wire A Boat from New Wire Marine https://newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/
The USCG Boat Builders Handbook for Electrical Systems is available on-line at https://safeafloat.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/I-Electrical-Systems-Final-4-14.pdf
Contact ABYC for a copy of E-11, AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats. There is a fee. See: https://abycinc.org
Appendix A: Allowable Amperage and Voltage Drop Tables
Note: This is the table that is in the Federal Regulations. The Federal Regulation now uses the ABYC table. It is published in 33 CFR Subpart I sec 183.425. ABYC Standard E-11 has five separate tables based on how many conductors are in a wire bundle.
Temperature Rating of Conductor Insulation | |||||||||||||
Conductor Size English (metric) | 60 C (149 F) | 75 C (167 F) | 80 C (176 F) | 90 C (194 F) | 105 C (221 F) | 125 C (257 F) | 200 C (392 F) | ||||||
Outside Engine space | Inside Engine Space | Outside Engine space | Inside Engine Space | Outside Engine space | Inside Engine Space | Outside Engine space | Inside Engine Space | Outside Engine space | Inside Engine Space | Outside Engine space | Inside Engine Space | Outside or Inside Engine Space | |
18 (0.8) | 10 | 5.8 | 10 | 7.5 | 15 | 11.7 | 20 | 16.4 | 20 | 17.0 | 25 | 22.3 | 25 |
16 (1) | 15 | 8.7 | 15 | 11.3 | 20 | 15.6 | 25 | 20.5 | 25 | 21.3 | 30 | 25.7 | 35 |
14 (2) | 20 | 11.6 | 20 | 15.0 | 25 | 19.5 | 30 | 24.6 | 35 | 29.8 | 40 | 35.6 | 45 |
12 (3) | 25 | 14.5 | 25 | 18.8 | 35 | 27.3 | 40 | 32.8 | 45 | 38.3 | 50 | 44.5 | 55 |
10 (5) | 40 | 23.2 | 40 | 30.0 | 50 | 39.0 | 55 | 45.1 | 60 | 51.0 | 70 | 62.3 | 70 |
8 (8) | 55 | 31.9 | 65 | 48.8 | 70 | 54.6 | 70 | 57.4 | 80 | 68.0 | 90 | 80.1 | 100 |
6 (13) | 80 | 46.4 | 95 | 71.3 | 100 | 78.0 | 100 | 82.0 | 120 | 102 | 125 | 111 | 135 |
4 (19) | 105 | 60.9 | 125 | 93.8 | 130 | 101 | 135 | 110 | 160 | 136 | 170 | 151 | 180 |
2 (32) | 140 | 81.2 | 170 | 127 | 175 | 138 | 180 | 147 | 210 | 178 | 225 | 200 | 240 |
1 (40) | 165 | 95.7 | 195 | 146 | 210 | 163 | 210 | 172 | 245 | 208 | 265 | 235 | 280 |
0 (50) | 195 | 113 | 230 | 172 | 245 | 191 | 245 | 200 | 285 | 242 | 305 | 271 | 325 |
00 (62) | 225 | 130 | 265 | 198 | 285 | 222 | 285 | 233 | 330 | 280 | 355 | 316 | 370 |
000 (81) | 260 | 150 | 310 | 232 | 330 | 257 | 330 | 270 | 385 | 327 | 410 | 384 | 430 |
0000 (103) | 300 | 174 | 380 | 270 | 385 | 300 | 385 | 315 | 445 | 378 | 475 | 422 | 510 |
Notes for the above table | |||||||
Temperature Rating of Conductor Insulation | |||||||
60oC (140oF) | 75oC (167oF) | 80oC (176oF) | 90oC (194oF) | 105oC (221oF) | 125oC (257oF) | 200oC (392oF) | |
1. See the following table: Temperature Rating of conductor | 0.58 | 0.75 | 0.78 | 0.82 | 0.85 | 0.89 | 1.00 |
2. See the following Table: Number of current carrying conductors | Correction Factor | ||||||
3 | 0.70 | ||||||
4 to 6 | 0.60 | ||||||
7 to 24 | 0.50 | ||||||
25 and above | 0.40 | ||||||
The table for voltage drop is below. This is only for 12V DC. Contact ABYC for a copy of E-11, AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats. There is a fee. See: https://abycinc.org
This is the table to determine wire size due to voltage drop based on the length of the wire. This table is for 12 volts only. The top row is the length of the wire in feet. The first column below Total Amps, is the amount of maximum amperage. The number in the row to the right of the total Amps column, is the size of the wire for a 10% or less voltage drop. Example: 25 feet of wire (top row) at 15 amps (first column) the wire would be 14 AWG.
| |||||||||||||||||||
Feet | 10 | 15 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 40 | 50 | 60 | 70 | 80 | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 | 130 | 140 | 150 | 160 | 170 |
Total Amps | 12 volt - 10% drop wire sizes gauge | ||||||||||||||||||
5 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 18 | 16 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 14 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
10 | 18 | 18 | 16 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 |
15 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 |
20 | 16 | 14 | 14 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
25 | 16 | 14 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 2 |
30 | 14 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
40 | 14 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
50 | 12 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
60 | 12 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
70 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2/0 | 2/0 |
80 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 2/0 |
90 | 10 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 3/0 | 3/0 |
100 | 10 | 8 | 6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 2/0 | 3/0 | 3/0 |
Navigation Lights: I added this section because many people asked for it.
Wiring Navigation Lights for boats with combination red/green bow lights and an anchor/sternlight on a pole. I have been asked many times if there is a standard wiring diagram for hooking up the lights on a small outboard or inboard boat. There are some variations on this but here is how I did it on my boat.
The below diagram is for small boats with a red/green combo light on the bow, and a single sternlight that can also be used as an anchor light. Usually these have a single switch with 3 positions; Off, 1. anchor light, 2. combo bow light, sternlight/anchor light, and instrument lights. The diagram shows a Cole-Hersee switch that is in common use, but there are other manufacturers that also make switches for this, such as BEM and Blue Seas. They all serve the same function. In this diagram the lights are wired directly to the battery. However, some people prefer to wire it through the battery switch so the battery is not discharged if the lights are accidentally left on. It is just a matter of switching the power wire from B on the lights switch, to the number one position on the battery switch.
© newboatbuilders.com 2007 All rights reserved. revised 03/17/2023
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Boating is an enjoyable and relaxing way to spend time with family and friends. But it’s important to remember that safety is a top priority when out on the water. One way to ensure safety is to correctly wire your boat’s navigation lights. Properly wiring navigation lights will help you to be seen by other boaters and help you to avoid collisions. This article will explain how to wire navigation lights for a boat.
Table of Contents
W iring boat navigation lights is not a difficult task , but it does require careful attention to detail . M ake sure the navigation lights you have purchased are compatible with the wiring harness you plan to use . Y ou will need to determine the power source for the lights . This can either be a dedicated battery or the boat ’s main battery . Once you have determined the power source , you can begin to make the necessary connections .
Start by connecting the positive (+ ) lead from the power source to the positive (+ ) side of the navigation light . Then connect the negative (- ) lead from the power source to the negative (- ) side of the navigation light . Finally , use waterproof connectors to secure the connections . After the wiring is complete , you can test the lights to make sure they are working properly . Following these steps should ensure that your navigation lights are properly and safely wired .
Navigation lights are lights that are used to indicate the direction and speed of a boat. They help other boaters know which direction you are heading and if you are traveling at a slow or fast speed. Navigation lights are important safety devices that must be installed and wired correctly on all boats.
This process requires the use of electrical cables and connectors, as well as tools such as wire strippers and crimpers. It is important to have a thorough understanding of electrical wiring and boat systems before attempting this task, as improper wiring can lead to hazardous situations and costly repairs. Also see our article article about best boat spotlights .The wiring process begins by running the cables from the power source to the lights, making sure to leave enough slack to allow for movement.
Cables should be connected to the lights, using the appropriate connectors and crimps. Power source should be connected to the switch, ensuring that the power flow is correct and that all connections are secure. Following these steps will ensure that the navigation lights are properly wired and will remain in working condition for years to come.
Before you start wiring your navigation lights, you will need to make sure you have the right tools and materials. You will need a screwdriver, wire cutters, electrical tape, wire strippers, terminals, and a fuse.
Materials:
In order to wire navigation lights on a boat, you will need to have a few tools and materials on hand. You will need a set of wire cutters, a set of wire strippers, solder and a soldering iron, electrical tape, and marine-grade electrical connectors. You will need to acquire the appropriate size and type of wiring for your installation, as well as the navigation lights themselves.
You will also need to make sure that you understand all of the safety precautions associated with wiring and that you have the right tools to do the job. It is important to make sure that the connections are secure and that the wiring is well insulated. This will help to ensure that the wiring is safe and secure and that the navigation lights will work properly. It is important to make sure that the wiring is properly connected to the corresponding navigation light, so that the appropriate illumination is achieved. Always be sure to double check all the connections before turning on the power.
Once you have all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin to install the navigation lights. Mount the navigation lights on your boat in the correct position. Make sure they are securely fastened and that the wires are long enough to reach the battery or fuse panel.
Installing navigation lights on a boat requires a few simple steps. Make sure the lights are the correct type for your boat, as different types of boats require different types of lights. Prepare the mounting surfaces for the lights, typically by drilling mounting holes. Then, attach the lights to the boat using screws and washers, making sure they are securely mounted. Connect the lights to the boat’s electrical system, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the lights are connected and powered, make sure they are working properly.
Once the lights are mounted, it’s time to connect the wires. Start by stripping the insulation off the end of the wires. Then connect the wires to the corresponding color terminals on the navigation lights.
Connecting the wiring for navigation lights requires careful consideration of the electrical system, the type of lights used, and the necessary current draw. Identify the electrical source and ensure it is capable of supplying the necessary current. Connect the power wires to the appropriate terminals on the navigation lights, typically either a positive and negative terminal or a hot and ground terminal. Make sure the wiring is secured and insulated to prevent any short circuiting or other electrical hazards. Test the lights to ensure they are functioning properly.
Once the lights are connected to the wires, you can connect them to the battery. Start by connecting the positive wire to the positive terminal on the battery. Then connect the negative wire to the negative terminal. Make sure the connections are tight and secure.
If your boat has a fuse panel, you will need to connect the navigation lights to it. Start by connecting the positive wire to the positive terminal on the fuse panel. Then connect the negative wire to the negative terminal. Make sure the connections are tight and secure.
Once the navigation lights are connected to the battery or fuse panel, you can test them to make sure they are working properly. Turn on the switch and check to see if the lights come on. If they do, then you have successfully wired your navigation lights.
Even after the navigation lights are installed, maintenance is still necessary. Regularly check the wires and connections for any signs of corrosion or wear. If you notice any problems, make sure to fix them immediately. It’s important to make sure the lights are clean and free of dirt or debris. This will help ensure that the navigation lights are working properly and are visible to other boaters.
When wiring navigation lights, it is important to follow safety guidelines. Make sure to turn off the power before making any connections and use appropriate tools. When connecting the wires to the battery or fuse panel, make sure the connections are secure and there is no chance of a short circuit.
They are important safety features , as they allow other boats to identify the boat ’s position , course , and speed . To ensure safety on the water , it is important to make sure that navigation lights are properly installed and maintained . This includes ensuring that the lights are in good working condition and that the watt age of the bulbs is appropriate for the size of the boat .
If your navigation lights are not working properly, there are a few things you can check. Make sure the lights are turned on and the connections are tight. If everything appears to be connected properly, then you may need to replace the fuse or check the wires for any signs of damage.
The size of wire required for boat navigation lights will depend on the total wattage of the lights being used. Generally, a minimum of 16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) wire should be used for lights with a wattage of up to 20 watts. For higher wattage lights, a larger AWG wire should be used.
The amount of amps that boat navigation lights draw depends on the wattage of the bulbs and the voltage of the system. A standard navigation light bulb may draw between 0.1 and 0.3 amps.
Wiring multiple boat lights to one switch is fairly straightforward and requires a few basic tools. Identify the type of switch you are using and the type of light you are wiring. Once you know the type of lighting and switch, you will need to determine the gauge of the wire needed. If you have the wire and the switch, you will need to strip the ends of the wires and attach them to the switch, ensuring to note the correct polarity.
Wiring navigation lights for a boat can seem like a daunting task, but with the right tools and materials it can be done quickly and easily. Understanding how navigation lights work and making sure they are connected correctly is important for the safety of you and other boaters. By following the steps outlined in this article, you can be sure your navigation lights are wired correctly.
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My current problem is that when my mast was put back up, my mast lights and bow light no longer function on my 1987 Hunter 26.5 sailboat. The wiring is likely all original and and thus not tinned. The wiring also has a lot of black electrical tape above the deck. The stern light does function. The forward cabin light also does not function. Tried moving the light bulbs around, the same light continued to not function. I am looking for a wiring diagram to assist me in fixing my wiring problem. Thank you in advance for any help and or suggestions you can provide me.
it should be a fairly simple task..... without a schematic, if you know what a continuity tester is and how to use it. but you also need a regular test light also. if it happened when the mast was either taken down or put back up, it could be a pinched wire or a broken ground. I dont know if the masthead light and bow lights have independent grounds or if they have a shared ground wire. you need to find out if the ground wire at the light has continuity to the negative post on the battery, and the positive wire at the light needs continuity to the positive post on the battery. find out which one has failed you and 2/3 of your work is done..... then you only need to find out where the failure is in that one particular wire. is there any thing common between the two lights other than the battery?.... do they share the same switch?.... the same ground wire? the same hot wire? with these ideas you should be able to locate the problem fairly quickly.....
I am having the same issue. My issue is where / how the wires run. How do you feed them through the ceiling / where do they go?? I've got a 78' H25.
The Red & Grn Bow lights and Stern light should all be on the same switch at the panel. Marked either "Running Lights" or "Nav Lights", or similar. The Steaming Light and the Anchor light should each have separate switches at the DC distributional panel. To do the continuity tests that Centerline talked about above, make sure all of the Nave lights, Steaming lights, and Anchor light are in the on position. Check them out one leg at a time. On my H-33.5 (1990) the Bow lights wires run along the Port side behind the settee. Im not sure where the Stern light wires run - probably start out on the Port side (that is the side that my DC distribution panel is), but cross over somewhere to the Starboard side where the Stern light is. The Steaming light and Anchoe light wires start out on the Port side and go to the top of the compression post and thru the deck to the base of the mast. There there are connections to the wires in the mast to the Steaming and Anchor , and Spreader lights. I hope some of this makes sense and is somewhat useful to you for your H-26.5. Good luck.
Another thought. There should be basic rudimentary schematics in the boats manual from Hunter. They should also be available on line from Hunter. Give that a try.
There are the basic drawings of the wiring, I'm wondering if anyone has fed new wire through the ceiling and how it was done.
As I've been working piece by piece on rebuiliding my salvage H22 for the past 4 years, I did not try to feed the wires through the salon ceiling, but just replace the wiring that I could access (splicing, taping over / heat shrink tubing at the connection points) and would make my own runs of wiring via accessible paths, and hiding / reinforcing with spiral wound cable protector as needed.
I am embarrased to admit it, but the issue with the bow nav light had nothing to do with the electrical. It was a bad bulb. Evidently, the bulb just simply went bad during transport from the Chesapeake down to South Carolina. I replaced the bulb and the front lens and all is now good with that light. Now it is time for me to find my harness and send my wife up the mast to replace the bulbs on the mast and see if that might fix those lights too. I guess it is always possible that they were simply damaged during transport. I have traced the red/blue wires coming down the mast to the thru-deck connector where they splice into a set of red/green wires below deck and back to the electrical panel under the companion way.
I Need a very very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Mounting the red and green on seperate sides of a center console and the anchor light in the back, thanx.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=225399&p=2745677&viewfull=1#post2745677
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Hmm, may want to make sure that red and green mounted on your center console meets all the visibility requirements: http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/sidelights.htm Especially the part where they are visible x degrees above and below horizontal.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. These are the navagation lights I will be using. I had used these same on another boat I had built about 4 years ago I had bought off Ebay. The navagation lights diagram drawing I found in my files, I had used on same boat, just could not remember where it was until now. I used a pull pull switch. Thanx for yalls help again, good fishin.
Baytown.boy said: ...The navagation lights diagram drawing I found in my files.... Click to expand...
jhebert said: That is a nice drawing of rectangles and lines with random colors used, but it is not an electrical drawing that makes any sense. Click to expand...
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. You run the negative leads from all the lights to the battery negative (or the negative buss under the console); the positive side for all lights goes through the switch. Same concept as in the top diagram in the thread that was linked By Don.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. There are four problems with the diagram. 1) A switch should not have a negative liine connected to it. Negative lines go to ground (wherever you find it -- that's not on the switch) 2) the diagram does not show "where" on the switch each wire goes. Push-pull nav light switches, just like the three, six, and seven terminal toggle or rocker switches, must be wired correctly. Your diagram does not show that. 3) Your use of red and black wires is incorrect. Red is the positive feed. Only one red wire should exit the battery (or preferably the fuse panel) INTO the switch. The red wires TO the lights runs FROM the switch TO the lights. Grounds (black wires) FROM the lights connects to a ground buss or the negative terminal of the battery. 4) You show a red line going from the battery directly to the stern light and also to the switch. Wrong! The positive line for any light comes from the switch, not directly from the battery (unless you happen to want the light on all the time).
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Ok, yes I know yall think I'm a big dummy, but I think with yalls help, I got it figured out in my mind and on paper, see diagram below, thanx again for all yalls help. Let me know if I'm wrong. The last diagram was the one I had that was wrong 4 years ago and had to change it up also.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/navLightSwitch.html
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Don S. I already have the switch, just got my wires were crossed!! I was looking at an old diagram that was wrong. 4 years ago, and is still wrong. LOL All is working right now. I had a tiller motor, and now have installed a center console and steering and the boat mechanic drilled a 2" hole from the back and into the front of the rear seat filled with foam for a wiring tunnel and put in a piece of PVC pipe, and run all the cables thru to the console. Now running the bilge pump and white anchor light wires into the tunnel so I can hook them up. That is all the wires in the tunnel now. All lights, GPS, dept finder, bilge pump will go thru a fuse panel under the console and switches will be on it also. All wires will be hooked onto the troll motor battery that is under the console now. Now just have to hook up the start/choke key switch and I'm fishing. Thanx for all yalls help, Doyle
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Just to clarify --- Nobody said or even insinuated that you were a dummy. You asked for help and it was given.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. I was laughing at myself for some dumb mistakes I make. I think the older I get, the less I know. I know I have C.R.S. disease now, LOL. I used a wiring diagram that was given to me approx 4 years ago and it was wrong then and is still wrong now. Had in an old file , the only one and just printed it, tried it and it would not work, so I asked for yalls help. I do appreciate it very much. That file has been replaced by the right version. thanx, Doyle.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Where is the fuse??
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. I don't have a $6.00 proper switch, mine is a non proper $15.00 switch by Cole Hersee, You get what you pay for. I already had the switch, so that is what I used. Thanx for yalls help, good fishin. Found this quote in another forum. Quote: I've yet to find a switch that lasts forever in the salt environment, only ones that last longer than others. The old standard pull switches do a fine job and are simple and easy to replace. As with anything, you get what you pay for and the cheaper ones don't last a year or two before they start getting "sweet spots" where you have to jiggle them to keep the lights on. It's all because of the nature of ANY mechanical switch, there is a shaft that has a seal that will eventually let water in and wipe it out. Pull's or toggles, they all have the same issue. Toggles are gaining popularity because they can be part of the boats switch panel instead of having a lot of pull buttons all over the place. Makes a neater, cleaner installation and is easier to wire up. Sticking with the more expensive brands (Cole Hersee, Carlingswitch, Blue Seas) should give you twice the lifetime over the cheaper knock offs that don't use quality components.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. i have a nitro bass boat and am having a problem with my nav/anc lights. front red/green light has three wires to it. white, gray, and black. the pole itself only has two pins. the switch has three terminals on it. 12V in, one for anc, and one for nav. my problem is that the front light is not grounded to battery ground. the two wires that plug into pole light both run back up to the switch. can anyone help? light used to work but now doesn't work properly. not sure what happened. does this sound even remotely right to anyone?
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Welcome to iboats henkemm You need to start a new thread with YOUR problem, not hijack someone elses thread. You need troubleshooting help not how to wire in new lights.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. Don, not sure how to start a new thread. Looked in FAQ and didn't see anything in there about how to do this. Kinda new to the whole forum thing. Sorry. Thanks, Matt
IMAGES
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On any vessel, navigation lights have a specific color, (white, red, green, yellow, blue), arc of illumination, range of visibility, and location, as required by law and regulations. For the purposes of this course, we will concentrate on pleasure boats under 65 feet in length. Knowledge of navigation lights is important to a small-boat skipper ...
As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead ...
A vessel that is over 7 m or 23 ft in length is expected to show red and green sidelights when sailing. Each of these lights needs to cover an arc of 112.5°. The sidelights may be combined in one lantern at the bow when below 25 m or 65 ft. The white stern light can be seen over an arc of 135°.
Rule 29, duty shall exhibit: at or near the masthead, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being white and the lower red; when underway, in addition, sidelights and a sternlight; as shown in the example below. Pilot boat, shorter than 50 m. Abeam, starboard side.
In this video, we'll be covering the basics of boat wiring. We'll be installing navigation lights, the anchor light, courtesy lights, bilge pump, livewell pu...
The basic rule is that sidelights and a stern light are required. Permissible variations to this rule appear below. Sailboats less than 20m (65.7') can substitute a tricolor light for separate sidelights and stern light—or a bi-color light and a stern light may be substituted. Sailboats less than 7m (23') shall, if practicable, exhibit lights ...
For most small vessels, motoring requires red and green (port and starboard) lights, and a white light visible in all directions around the boat. This is almost always a stern light and a masthead light on sailboats. Boats under sail require port and starboard lights, and a white stern light. Sailboats below sixty-five feet may show a tricolor ...
Vessel length: 12 meters to 20 meters (39.4 FT. to 65.6 FT.) Lighting requirement: A white masthead light located at the front of the boat, pointing in the direction you are traveling. This must be visible at 225 degrees and from two miles away. The masthead light must be positioned at least 8 feet above the gunnel.
As the name indicates, a stern light is a white light intended for your boat to be visible from behind, so it faces backwards with 135° of visibility, 67.5° on each side. 5. All-Around Light. An all-around light is white and has 360° of visibility. It is typically the light at the highest point on the boat compared to all other navigation ...
All-around white light - 360 degrees visable from two miles. Sidelights — 112.5 degrees visible from one mile. If your boat is greater than 39.4 feet but less than 65.6 feet, or 20 meters, you need the following set of navigation lights: A masthead light is a white light at the front of the boat. The masthead light needs to be visible across ...
Power boats less than 20 meters shall exhibit navigation lights as shown in Figure 1. (Note: 2 masthead lights are optional for vessels under 50 meters. Vessels over 50 meters will display two masthead lights.) Figure 2. Vessels of less than 12 meters in length, may show the lights in either Figure 1 or Figure 2.
Step 1: Begin by identifying the stern light fixture. It is typically located on the back of the boat, near the transom. Step 2: The stern light will have two wires extending from its base - one is the positive wire, usually color-coded as red, and the other is the negative wire, usually color-coded as black.
Connect the positive (+) wire to the positive terminal on the navigation light and the negative (-) wire to the negative terminal. Secure the connection by crimping it with a crimping tool. 6. Use a soldering iron to melt solder onto the crimped connections. This will create a more durable and reliable connection.
Attwood 3-mile (4.8 km) Anchor/Masthead Lights consist of anodized aluminum poles with lightweight heads. Horizontal and vertical bases allow light pole to be adjusted and locked within a 180° arc. Lights provide a 3-mile, 225 forward running light and 2-mile all-round ° anchor light. For power-driven boats boats up to 65.6 feet (20 meters).
This allows the use of either 2 switches or a 3 position switch with one off position. The most common configurations of lights are: A bicolor light with an all-round (360°) white light. A bicolor light with a 135° stern light and a 225° masthead light and a 360° anchor light. Two sidelights with an all-round (360°) white light.
where both lights are required to be on at night, when the boat is moving but only the anchor light is required when the boat is at anchor. For the purposes of this guide, both your red and green lights will be considered "Nav" lights, and the white stern or hardtop light will be considered the "Anc" light. Rev- 16 APR 2016 VJD2-U66B ...
Beginners guide: The basics of boat wiring. Wiring schematics, pictures, best practices and tips to get your boat's electrical systems in shape.
Step 2. Draw a simple electrical schematic (diagram) that shows each piece of equipment, the fuses, switches, and how all of this will be connected. This is not a diagram of where the equipment is located on the boat. That will come in Step 8. It is simply a diagram of the electrical circuits.
Joe. Feb 25, 2007. #6. Mast Wiring. Coax cable has no electric field outside of its shield. The field is between he conductors only - even if the antenna is not tuned properly. As far as the gauge of the wire used - 14 AGW is plenty for the grounds of all of your lights even if all of them are on at the same time.
We've got videos that show using a full harness for wiring in navigation lights on a boat, but this video shows how to do so in the simplest form for those j...
Drill holes in the boat for the lights to be mounted. Attach the navigation lights to the boat using the screws provided. Connect the electrical wires from the navigation lights to the boat's electrical system. Secure the electrical wires with electrical tape.
The Steaming light and Anchoe light wires start out on the Port side and go to the top of the compression post and thru the deck to the base of the mast. There there are connections to the wires in the mast to the Steaming and Anchor , and Spreader lights. I hope some of this makes sense and is somewhat useful to you for your H-26.5.
Re: Need a very simple wiring diagram for navagation lights. To use a push/pull switch, you are going to need the right kind of switch, several look the same on the outside, but work differently inside. You need an Off- On circuit 1 - On circuit 1 and 2. Circuit 1 will be your anchor light, and circuit 2 will be your bow/side lights.